Elin, I enjoyed this video very much. Not the first time you've roped me in to learn something I didn't know I needed to know. Liked the length too. Chuckled out loud when you said "that hurt".
Hi…love your videos as you are always “trouble shooting “ . As a owner of a 1971 MGB GT , and it’s mechanic, there is always a new mystery to solve to get it back on the road . Keep ‘em coming . Thanks
My Dad used to say... "well, we learn something new every day"... to which I'd reply "Really? then teach me something else so I won't have to get up tomorrow...." lol. Glad you solved that mystery - washer and sealant saves the day.
I've had oil in that cavity on my TR6 too, although not as quick a leak as that one. I think I'll do some sealing work on mine this winter! If I get stuck I may come by for a visit!
When you put the camera in the area, I could see the washer was missing, but I had no idea that the keyway went into the oil chamber of the differential. Good repair, my friend! Let's have a beer!
The same thing can occur at the front input if it isn’t properly torqued with oil getting between the shaft and the flange stub and pooling up and leaking out between the input and driveshaft coupling flanges. Just did a mount reinforcement/repair and a refresh of a Diff and was surprised to find RTV and oil between the front flanges. The proper castellated nut, washer, and safety wire were in place, but I discovered the flange was not even close to being properly torqued when I removed it for new seal installation.
Great bit of info there Elin and a happy ending . I agree that it's a design issue and really should have been spotted and rectified during the time of TR-6 production.
I have done many of those seals and getting the drive flange coupling off is always a crap shoot. Maybe a puller but almost always a press. I wonder if would have leaked had the washer been in place? Great job!
the missing washer is a giveaway that someone has been playing in there before - the tapper is the seal if the nut was not tight it will not seal the tapper if the shaft was not tight in the taper the nut was not tight enough lucky that the nut did not start to undo and the wood ruff key did not let go
I have a question for you. Where do the starter solenoid and the fuse box mount on a tr4a? I didn’t take the car apart so I am not sure where they go. Any help would be appreciated thanks Elin.
The solenoid is on the firewall, right side of the engine, just above the starter. The fusebox is on the right inner fender close to the voltage regulator. You can see that in my videos about the 1964 yellow TR4
I actually think it was the opposite. The nut went out of threads on the shaft, because the washer wasn't there before the flange was all the way on the taper. That is why I was able to press it out super easy...
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Elin, I enjoyed this video very much. Not the first time you've roped me in to learn something I didn't know I needed to know. Liked the length too. Chuckled out loud when you said "that hurt".
Hi…love your videos as you are always “trouble shooting “ . As a owner of a 1971 MGB GT , and it’s mechanic, there is always a new mystery to solve to get it back on the road . Keep ‘em coming . Thanks
Nice job Elin.
My Dad used to say... "well, we learn something new every day"... to which I'd reply "Really? then teach me something else so I won't have to get up tomorrow...." lol. Glad you solved that mystery - washer and sealant saves the day.
Nice work getting to the real problem.good solution too.
I've had oil in that cavity on my TR6 too, although not as quick a leak as that one. I think I'll do some sealing work on mine this winter! If I get stuck I may come by for a visit!
Very interesting. I'm not surprised that you figured it out, Elin, but congratulations on a job well done.
Good sleuthing. I use washers with incorporated rubber seals used in a/c systems.
When you put the camera in the area, I could see the washer was missing, but I had no idea that the keyway went into the oil chamber of the differential. Good repair, my friend! Let's have a beer!
The same thing can occur at the front input if it isn’t properly torqued with oil getting between the shaft and the flange stub and pooling up and leaking out between the input and driveshaft coupling flanges.
Just did a mount reinforcement/repair and a refresh of a Diff and was surprised to find RTV and oil between the front flanges.
The proper castellated nut, washer, and safety wire were in place, but I discovered the flange was not even close to being properly torqued when I removed it for new seal installation.
Great bit of info there Elin and a happy ending . I agree that it's a design issue and really should have been spotted and rectified during the time of TR-6 production.
Great video. I think I will remove the inner stub axles from my rebuilt GT6 rear end and put sealant on the flanges.
Interesting fix, nice to see the car with all the niggles getting sorted out. I liked the filler plug customisation !
Nice video. I knew you would figure it out.
🎉Love the video. Very informative!
I have done many of those seals and getting the drive flange coupling off is always a crap shoot. Maybe a puller but almost always a press. I wonder if would have leaked had the washer been in place?
Great job!
the missing washer is a giveaway that someone has been playing in there before - the tapper is the seal if the nut was not tight it will not seal the tapper if the shaft was not tight in the taper the nut was not tight enough lucky that the nut did not start to undo and the wood ruff key did not let go
Elin I am going to be doing the u joint's on my Spitfire are the diff's kind of the same as this tr6? I don't think they are. Cheer's my friend!!
Time will take care of the leak. Eventually it will stop on its own. 😊
Yep, when it is empty :)
I have a question for you. Where do the starter solenoid and the fuse box mount on a tr4a? I didn’t take the car apart so I am not sure where they go. Any help would be appreciated thanks Elin.
The solenoid is on the firewall, right side of the engine, just above the starter. The fusebox is on the right inner fender close to the voltage regulator. You can see that in my videos about the 1964 yellow TR4
@@RustyBeauties thanks Elin for your quick response
You are a member of seal team TR6.
😂
It's pressed too far because the washer is missing...when they tightened the nut it went deeper ( washer thickness ? )
I actually think it was the opposite. The nut went out of threads on the shaft, because the washer wasn't there before the flange was all the way on the taper. That is why I was able to press it out super easy...
@@RustyBeauties
👍
Second 😀
First 😉