I have a #5 Bedrock-yep, not a #605. The plane was from the first castings before a legal dispute forced Stanley to mill the patent date from the plane body. After much research, I found that my Bedrock wasn't a bastard of an ill-fated encounter with a broke Bailey, but the firstborn. The firstborn of a great house and a name synonymous with excellence. I'm not being dramatic. It's an epic and heroic tale for the ages.
If you close your eyes while playing this video, you can convince yourself it's Bill Nye teaching you how to supe up a hand plane. I've ALWAYS wondered why his voice sounded so familiar! 😂 🙏
One of my motorcycle buddys did some engine cases on a restoration bike with silver engine enamel. He let it dry and "baked" it in a styrofoam box with a 100 watt light bulb that raised it to around 130F for roughly 24 hours. The resulting paint was able to resist casual scuffs from motorcycle boots. Now this was around 20 years ago so I'm not sure if the current options for engine enamel are still the same and would be as tough. But if you just want a durable finish it might be worth trying. Of course you don't need to use silver. It comes in a wide variety of colors. And hopefully, for the sake of my comment, is as durable. Lovely work on the new "zero slop adjuster" too.
I need to use my bedrocks more. Probably make some restoration videos along the way. I might also try Rubio Monocoat on tote. I have BLO and wax on all mine at the moment, but they do turn a lot darker. I am wondering if Rubio will maintane more of the wood color and grain.
The lateral adjustment lever on hand planes and I do not get along.... It seems that if I have enough pressure on the lever cap and screw, then when I try to adjust it either moves too far or not far enough. I have found it easier to adjust with a small mallet. Nice piece here.
James is moving? Geeze, I am way out of the loop. Looks like I have a lot of catching up to do. Bedrocks are very cool planes. The best modern version is made by Lie Nielsen. I’m saving up to buy one.
After watching this video I initially thought, "Wait wait wait... I'm so confused. I thought your go-to smoother was the Veritas Custom #4, for over 6 years. What is going on here? Are YOU the crazy one or am I?" But then I spent some time searching your videos, and after watching a few other related ones, I still felt like I needed a map or a chart just to understand which planes you actually use, and for what. So I searched for THAT video, and luckily found it: _"What Planes Are For Show and Which Ones Are Actually Used"_ from August 2021, which is very annoyingly not included in your "Planes" playlist, and therefore not the easiest video to find. BUT I FOUND IT, THANK GOD! xD So after finding that 18-minute video, I immediately watched from start to finish, and it answered basically all of my questions. This "new" heavily-restored & modified Bedrock 604 replaces your old heavily-tuned super-fine #4 smoother - which is shown and mentioned at the end of this video - while your Veritas Custom #4 remains your go-to smoother for the majority of smoothing applications in your own personal, non-filmed use. Hopefully, after a lot of time and effort trying to piece that puzzle together, I have that right. Do I?
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Cool, excellent. I've watched most of the videos on that list, and much like the other playlists for the primary tool types, it's pretty comprehensive and is a great reference for the endless education of a beginner like me, or I imagine for any woodwright.
Oh man, that is so killer. Looking forward to the in depth video on the reed planes goodies. I have a junker bailey I would like to do the same thing to. Make it a hot rod. Thanks James 🤙🏼
Just when I am in the process of finetuning my new nr. 5 and old nr. 4 :-) very nice! Try heating up the stuck bolts first with a heat gun (aka real men hairdryer) and maybe shock them with WD40 or water a few times before sawing a slot in it. It works for me most of the time, and also loosens up locktide.
Would love to fine a bed rock but I haven't even seen one yet in person. But just like my stanley number 3 I never saw one till I did and couldn't pass it up for $14
How does that tuned up 0 slop bedrock compared to your stock Veritas custom? Would you say that the Reed add ons bring the vintage plane up to the premium modern standards, is there still some further improvement made by Veritas’ r&d, or does the tuned up bedrock now surpass it? Great video!
@@WoodByWrightHowTo THANKS.. I recently restored one that I think was a Frankenstein. The body was grey with ENGLAND cast in, the frog was black, and the lever cap says Handyman.... It looks much better now.
Hi James - nice tight refurbishment - could of questions< Home much slop do have at the end, Zero ? When are you goys make at zero slop lateral adjuster? And lastly what do t=you think of tour souped up planes? Notice you don't seem to breakout the Veritas custom smoother as often...
As to the slop with the fine adjustment wheel it has about 1/8 turn of slop. With a normal wheel it would be down to about 1/16 turn. The lateral adjuster would be a lot harder but maybe some day. The veritas costume is still my go to fine smoother. Though we will see which one I reach for more in the future.
1/16 huh, thats well done, I have 1/8 on my smoother and the gaps are pretty tight :) The "costume" :) smoother must be something, if you prefer that. I always found Norris adjusts less preferable to Bailey setup as it too easy to knock the lateral adjustment, when intending to chance depth. lateral adjuster - some sort of fileable brass clip for the wheel? Like a ruler stop? @@WoodByWrightHowTo
James, I was watching one of your older videos on where to find free wood. When you pulled up market place on Facebook, I noticed towns in northern Illinois. Are you near the Rockford area?
@WoodByWrightHowTo I am in Rockford. I bought a house in Sterling. I should put you in touch with a guy I know who has a sawmill and air drys the wood he cuts in his barn. His is in Rockford.
Pro tip: As an alternative to filing a groove into the end of that threaded rod... If you have 2 nuts that fit the screw thread - put em both on. Tighten them against eachother (using 2 spanners or wrenches). Want it to go up? Use an open ended spanner on the bottom nut. For down; use the top nut. No hacksaws needed; no mangled threads from using pliers. And you can use a ridiculous amount of force. * _if the nuts end up moving along the thread together - put a spring washer in between the nuts. (The tension will stop em from moving.)_
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I am aware of the problematics. First draft of my comment started with a huge disclaimer... (Then I felt no one would read it). Changed it to 'IF you have 2 nuts', and carefully worded my description of the mechanics so that it applies to both left hand- and right hand thread. I figured the trick itself would add value to someone's day (after having mangled quite a few threads with pliers over the years ;)) . What I like about it, is that - (IF and WHEN you have 2 nuts available) - it's a completely non destructive method. (Which can be 'a thing' with vintage stuff... Although - fiercely ironically - vintage stuff is the most likely to have non standard threading ;)€
@@autumn5592 That's what I was going for. Technically, it works for any thread that you have 2 nuts available for. (Though it's ever more unlikely to have those at hand as the weirdness factor increases ;))
I'd never heard of blue Japanning, but it looks like it was maybe too viscous. Is it a DIY recipe or is it purchased pre-mixed? Can the stuff be thinned with a solvent like turpentine? Hmm, I see a future video for you here.. Red Japanning would be cool, too, if there's such a thing.
This was an old recipe. And there a lot of them, but I have not been happy with any so far. This one was thinned with turpentine. You want it to be rather thick and viscus.
Nice plane, better than the Boeing that fell out of the sky last week between Australia and New Zealand (didn't crash just stuck passengers and crew to the ceiling). Pretty sure I saw it on your channel just can't find the video, did you recently have a tin of commercially available Japaning "paint" on your bench? Who made it and where can I get it?
If the japanning isn't turning out the way you like it, why not just powder coat instead? I've seen a bunch of restoration videos where people use that method and it seems pretty simple.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Ive never looked into it personally so I have no concept of the cost of a system. I just see hack restoration channels using it all the time and the process seems easy enough. Blow on powder and toss in toaster oven and there you go lol
Have you tried grinding and sharpening a back bevel on the smoother blade. I have a 25 degrees back bevel to give an angle of attack off 70 degrees. Harder to push but goes through knots, cathedrals, swirly stuff and smooths it quite well I just thought that if a low angle jack can have different blades then surely I can mimic that on a bedrock @@WoodByWrightHowTo
I had no luck making wax I used boiled linseed oil from Lowes and bee's wax 4 parts oil 1 part wax after it dries its more sticky went back to paul sellers oil rag
BLO is not what you want to use for lubrication. That recipe is good for finishes. For lubrication you need an oil that does not polymerize quickly. The oil alone like the English oil in a can is good but it disappears quickly. Mixing in a bit of wax will keep it much longer.
Kind of surprised you would describe shellac as being a 'surface' thing. My experience of shellac is that most timbers will absorb 10 or 20 coatings of the stuff before it actually starts to gather on the surface. I also think its the softest and warmest of all the timber finishes, so the feeling on ones hand is actually excellent. I guess people get it confused with varnish sometimes. But its a very different feel. Oh well.
And just by repainting his plane blue James changed it from a Stanley to a Record.
I have a #5 Bedrock-yep, not a #605. The plane was from the first castings before a legal dispute forced Stanley to mill the patent date from the plane body. After much research, I found that my Bedrock wasn't a bastard of an ill-fated encounter with a broke Bailey, but the firstborn. The firstborn of a great house and a name synonymous with excellence. I'm not being dramatic. It's an epic and heroic tale for the ages.
My Bedrock 604 (now with a Veritas PMV-11 iron) is one of my favorites.
If you close your eyes while playing this video, you can convince yourself it's Bill Nye teaching you how to supe up a hand plane.
I've ALWAYS wondered why his voice sounded so familiar! 😂 🙏
I love the concentration tongue chewing, my grandfather used to do the same thing when he was really focused on something.
Shavings so thin that they only have one side.
Shavings so thin they became Möbius strip
🤣🤣👍
Shaving off the 3rd dimension (:
Recently tuned up a Bailey type 19 no 5 with the reed adjuster update, and it’s the real deal. So much more pleasant to use
Thanks James, hope the move is going well.
One of my motorcycle buddys did some engine cases on a restoration bike with silver engine enamel. He let it dry and "baked" it in a styrofoam box with a 100 watt light bulb that raised it to around 130F for roughly 24 hours. The resulting paint was able to resist casual scuffs from motorcycle boots. Now this was around 20 years ago so I'm not sure if the current options for engine enamel are still the same and would be as tough. But if you just want a durable finish it might be worth trying. Of course you don't need to use silver. It comes in a wide variety of colors. And hopefully, for the sake of my comment, is as durable.
Lovely work on the new "zero slop adjuster" too.
Looking forward to seeing this plane in action at your new shop.
The perfect video for me today, just got my first plane and restored it. Today is use and tuning
Nice plane, great tuning! Thank you for sharing
The blue japanning looks good, blue happens to be my favourite color, bedrock planes look cool. I love it !
It's really interesting seeing it done up like that. Never seen blue japanning, turned out better than I expected.
The plane looks good and functions great!
Thanks James!
Amazing work, James! Beautiful plane indeed! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Another great rainy-day project! 👍👍👍
Interesting video, I have a 604 waiting for some restoration, I will take inspiration from your work.
I need to use my bedrocks more. Probably make some restoration videos along the way. I might also try Rubio Monocoat on tote. I have BLO and wax on all mine at the moment, but they do turn a lot darker. I am wondering if Rubio will maintane more of the wood color and grain.
The lateral adjustment lever on hand planes and I do not get along.... It seems that if I have enough pressure on the lever cap and screw, then when I try to adjust it either moves too far or not far enough. I have found it easier to adjust with a small mallet. Nice piece here.
You are not a lone. A lot of people hammer adjust. It takes a precise and practiced hand
Bud I use oversized sharpie oil based markers for my japping and It works well
Amazing tool! Loved the video, thanks James
10:23 just "planeing" around ... :P
James is moving? Geeze, I am way out of the loop. Looks like I have a lot of catching up to do.
Bedrocks are very cool planes. The best modern version is made by Lie Nielsen. I’m saving up to buy one.
thanks
Thanks for sharing that
After watching this video I initially thought, "Wait wait wait... I'm so confused. I thought your go-to smoother was the Veritas Custom #4, for over 6 years. What is going on here? Are YOU the crazy one or am I?" But then I spent some time searching your videos, and after watching a few other related ones, I still felt like I needed a map or a chart just to understand which planes you actually use, and for what. So I searched for THAT video, and luckily found it: _"What Planes Are For Show and Which Ones Are Actually Used"_ from August 2021, which is very annoyingly not included in your "Planes" playlist, and therefore not the easiest video to find. BUT I FOUND IT, THANK GOD! xD
So after finding that 18-minute video, I immediately watched from start to finish, and it answered basically all of my questions. This "new" heavily-restored & modified Bedrock 604 replaces your old heavily-tuned super-fine #4 smoother - which is shown and mentioned at the end of this video - while your Veritas Custom #4 remains your go-to smoother for the majority of smoothing applications in your own personal, non-filmed use. Hopefully, after a lot of time and effort trying to piece that puzzle together, I have that right. Do I?
That is about it.and thanks for letting me know I will have to add that one to the play list.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Cool, excellent. I've watched most of the videos on that list, and much like the other playlists for the primary tool types, it's pretty comprehensive and is a great reference for the endless education of a beginner like me, or I imagine for any woodwright.
Your Fiinstone came out BamBam 🏝🏝
Oh man, that is so killer. Looking forward to the in depth video on the reed planes goodies. I have a junker bailey I would like to do the same thing to. Make it a hot rod. Thanks James 🤙🏼
I have indepth videos on each of them. What do you want to see more on. I can get you a link.
@@WoodByWrightHowToto how to file to fit the yoke. I'm going to order one now n I'll look for the video.
Here you go. th-cam.com/video/AS8voV3jmh8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kXRbwK_SiHlxxfZ9
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you my friend 👍🏼
Great job modifying. By the way, anyone know what make that micrometer used for shavings measurements? Just curious
Here you go. amzn.to/4cl7FT6
Just when I am in the process of finetuning my new nr. 5 and old nr. 4 :-) very nice! Try heating up the stuck bolts first with a heat gun (aka real men hairdryer) and maybe shock them with WD40 or water a few times before sawing a slot in it. It works for me most of the time, and also loosens up locktide.
When are we getting videos from the new shop?
Hopefully this next weekend will have the first video out from the new place.
I have a long way to go just getting my plane to work ☺
Would love to fine a bed rock but I haven't even seen one yet in person. But just like my stanley number 3 I never saw one till I did and couldn't pass it up for $14
When filing the throat, what file should be used? Flat fine file, extra fine, bastard? Thanks!
It just depends on how fast you want to go. If you need to take off a lot start with something course then finish with a fine.
How does that tuned up 0 slop bedrock compared to your stock Veritas custom? Would you say that the Reed add ons bring the vintage plane up to the premium modern standards, is there still some further improvement made by Veritas’ r&d, or does the tuned up bedrock now surpass it?
Great video!
I am interested to see which one I grab for more.
Very nice
Nice work.... Have you done a video on the Handyman.. I hear terrible things but I haven't heard why
They're good users. But they don't have the fit and finish and often have some plastic parts. But they do the work well.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo THANKS.. I recently restored one that I think was a Frankenstein. The body was grey with ENGLAND cast in, the frog was black, and the lever cap says Handyman.... It looks much better now.
Great video. Thx
When do we get to see the new place?
Hopefully the first video in the new place will come out this next weekend.
Hi James - nice tight refurbishment - could of questions<
Home much slop do have at the end, Zero ?
When are you goys make at zero slop lateral adjuster?
And lastly what do t=you think of tour souped up planes? Notice you don't seem to breakout the Veritas custom smoother as often...
As to the slop with the fine adjustment wheel it has about 1/8 turn of slop. With a normal wheel it would be down to about 1/16 turn.
The lateral adjuster would be a lot harder but maybe some day.
The veritas costume is still my go to fine smoother. Though we will see which one I reach for more in the future.
1/16 huh, thats well done, I have 1/8 on my smoother and the gaps are pretty tight :)
The "costume" :) smoother must be something, if you prefer that. I always found Norris adjusts less preferable to Bailey setup as it too easy to knock the lateral adjustment, when intending to chance depth.
lateral adjuster - some sort of fileable brass clip for the wheel? Like a ruler stop?
@@WoodByWrightHowTo
James, I was watching one of your older videos on where to find free wood. When you pulled up market place on Facebook, I noticed towns in northern Illinois. Are you near the Rockford area?
I live in Rockford. near state street and parieville
@WoodByWrightHowTo I am in Rockford. I bought a house in Sterling. I should put you in touch with a guy I know who has a sawmill and air drys the wood he cuts in his barn. His is in Rockford.
Hey James is there a video about your epic bench? How is the whole end a vice? It looks amazing
here is the video with installing that vice. th-cam.com/video/_kyog2KAtxI/w-d-xo.html I have a full series on the bench build.
Pro tip:
As an alternative to filing a groove into the end of that threaded rod...
If you have 2 nuts that fit the screw thread - put em both on.
Tighten them against eachother (using 2 spanners or wrenches).
Want it to go up? Use an open ended spanner on the bottom nut.
For down; use the top nut.
No hacksaws needed;
no mangled threads from using pliers.
And you can use a ridiculous amount of force.
* _if the nuts end up moving along the thread together - put a spring washer in between the nuts. (The tension will stop em from moving.)_
That would work well if you could find a left-handed nut with that weird thread.
Maybe for standard size right hand threads it works.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I am aware of the problematics. First draft of my comment started with a huge disclaimer... (Then I felt no one would read it).
Changed it to 'IF you have 2 nuts', and carefully worded my description of the mechanics so that it applies to both left hand- and right hand thread.
I figured the trick itself would add value to someone's day (after having mangled quite a few threads with pliers over the years ;))
. What I like about it, is that - (IF and WHEN you have 2 nuts available) - it's a completely non destructive method. (Which can be 'a thing' with vintage stuff...
Although - fiercely ironically - vintage stuff is the most likely to have non standard threading ;)€
@@autumn5592 That's what I was going for.
Technically, it works for any thread that you have 2 nuts available for. (Though it's ever more unlikely to have those at hand as the weirdness factor increases ;))
Wow. Plane to see why you like it so much. LOL.
I'd never heard of blue Japanning, but it looks like it was maybe too viscous. Is it a DIY recipe or is it purchased pre-mixed? Can the stuff be thinned with a solvent like turpentine? Hmm, I see a future video for you here.. Red Japanning would be cool, too, if there's such a thing.
This was an old recipe. And there a lot of them, but I have not been happy with any so far. This one was thinned with turpentine. You want it to be rather thick and viscus.
Nice
Nice plane, better than the Boeing that fell out of the sky last week between Australia and New Zealand (didn't crash just stuck passengers and crew to the ceiling).
Pretty sure I saw it on your channel just can't find the video, did you recently have a tin of commercially available Japaning "paint" on your bench? Who made it and where can I get it?
Here you go. It is from A Plane Life. aplanelife.us/products-for-sale
What's the purpose of the blue japanning? Does it turn out better than black, or is it just a personal preference?
just personal preference and experimentation.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo It looks sweet!
You need to replace the blue japanning with pink polka dots
If the japanning isn't turning out the way you like it, why not just powder coat instead? I've seen a bunch of restoration videos where people use that method and it seems pretty simple.
I would love to do that, but it is rather expensive.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Ive never looked into it personally so I have no concept of the cost of a system. I just see hack restoration channels using it all the time and the process seems easy enough. Blow on powder and toss in toaster oven and there you go lol
what is the total cost you have invested in that plane?
I don't want to know .LOL
Is blue Japanning different than black? Or is it just a color preference?
Very different recipes.
Comment down below.
How does this compare to the veritas custom smoother?
Time will tell which one I grab for more often.
Down below!
How does it perform over reversing grain?
Fantasticly. I am interested to see if I grab this or my veritas customer more there.
Have you tried grinding and sharpening a back bevel on the smoother blade. I have a 25 degrees back bevel to give an angle of attack off 70 degrees. Harder to push but goes through knots, cathedrals, swirly stuff and smooths it quite well I just thought that if a low angle jack can have different blades then surely I can mimic that on a bedrock @@WoodByWrightHowTo
I generally prefer to use the chipbreaker rather then a back bevel. but I know a couple people that prefer the back bevel.
Do you have a copy of Woodworks Joints by Charles H. Hayward? If not get one.
a good book indeed.
Smoooooth
Commenting below
Is it better than the veritas custom plane?
Time will tell which one I reach for more.
are the Record planes not blue japanned?... I just assumed they were...
No. They are painted same thing with the dark maroon of the handyman series
Comment down below 😉
I had no luck making wax I used boiled linseed oil from Lowes and bee's wax 4 parts oil 1 part wax after it dries its more sticky went back to paul sellers oil rag
BLO is not what you want to use for lubrication. That recipe is good for finishes. For lubrication you need an oil that does not polymerize quickly. The oil alone like the English oil in a can is good but it disappears quickly. Mixing in a bit of wax will keep it much longer.
@WoodByWrightHowTo that was my mistake I will try some other oil
@WoodByWrightHowTo use different oil works great thanks for the info
Comments down below
CDB
That is such a beautiful plane. You really should go with traditional black japaning.
Racing stripes .. just saying ...
Kind of surprised you would describe shellac as being a 'surface' thing. My experience of shellac is that most timbers will absorb 10 or 20 coatings of the stuff before it actually starts to gather on the surface.
I also think its the softest and warmest of all the timber finishes, so the feeling on ones hand is actually excellent.
I guess people get it confused with varnish sometimes. But its a very different feel.
Oh well.
🇮🇪