Since they (Aqua Blue) are sponsored by 3T, one would assume that they would use 3T cassettes as well. How about mentioning such options for the gear ratios?
You need the smaller, more granular steps of a 2x for varied terrain on a road bike. 1x is fine for flats and dirt, though. The Strada ought to be marketed purely as a crit bike.
To recreate the 53-39/11-28 gear ratio, the team will most likely be running a 44T chainring with the 9-32 3T bailout cassette. I'm guessing 3T will also come out with a 9-36 or 9-40 cassette for those few Zoncolan/Angliru/... kind of race days. Steps on the 9-32 cassette are actually not all that bad, would be better with a 12speed drivetrain though.
I converted my Giant Defy to 1x. Sram 50 tooth at the front and 11/34 compact rear cassette. Added some 50mm zipps and the bike rides smooth as silk. Best change to a bike I ever made!
As a weekend rider, I have been using 1x setup for a while and I loved it. Its so simple and clean, gear ratio works fine on hilly/flat roads. I'm currently using 42t chainring with 11-42t cassette on a titanium frame. Bike weight 7.6kg and it rides really well on most roads. 90rpm on 42t x11t would bring me around 38kmh on a flat road here. (put away speed calculator, considering road/wind/traffic condition) and on climbs I would hit on 42t x 42t, could easily spin up any hills in my township. I also travel with this bike around South East Asia to ride with friends from different countries, the gear ratio just works. :) Just sharing my opinion on 1x setup as a weekend rider, (Not a racer or associated with any cycling groups) I still have a 2x setup bike at home....works fine too...but I think I'm leaning towards 1x setup. Happy Riding guys! :)
Well by now we know 1x in pro road racing sucked like hell so 3t had to go back to 2x setup 🤣😂🤣😂🤣 i love when marketing fails like this And disc brakes follow 😁
@@ernestoechevers4741 I looked up how Aqua Blue did with the 3T 1X. They actually did have some success. That said, for us "mere mortals" who aren't pro riders, I would argue 1X isn't a bad choice at all.
For pros I think the key to 1x would be a more customisable rear cassette and maybe derailleur. I can imagine lightly larger gaps aren't such and issue if you can fully customise your ratios to the rider and the days profile, which I think is a simpler and more realistic prospect with a 1x setup. Heck, if it's a pan flat stage and you're running a 1x why not drop down to a 7 speed for the day :-) As a very-much-non-pro for me I could live with the lightly larger gaps for the simplicity and neatness of the setup. For casual riding as long as I have the range I can live with slightly more variation in cadence. Most prominent here though is quite how heated this comments section is. Some cyclists be crrrrazy about how they think things should be :-)
The thing you neglected is the fact that on a 2x system you may only need to change 1 gear (front ring) when going up and down the hills - whereas when all you have is your rear 11-cog set then you are going to have to do many changes up and down to get where you want to be.
Great subject and video. I switched to a 1x for my road bike last year and I'm very happy. But I disagree with one point -- you do NOT need a clutch derailleur on the rear. The clutch mechanism is primarily needed for cyclo-cross and off-road use. It would probably be a good idea for a gravel bike, too. That's because it's primary purpose is to minimize chain slap when riding on rough trails while shifted into a small sprocket. However, on the road chain slap is not usually an issue. If you're using a 11x32 cassette or smaller, the chain will be plenty tight enough and you can use a regular road rear derailleur. In fact, that's what Tony Martin did with his TT bike -- he had a road SRAM eTap rear derailleur (which does not use a clutch). I've been using a conventional rear derailleur with my 1x setup on the road and have had zero problems. I plan to upgrade to an eTap system in the near future.
I would go for a clutch derailleur and skip the narrow-wide chain ring, the extra tension will translate into longer chain life. But first try out what you have got before buying stuff you don´t need.
I would not skip the narrow wide chainring, even with a clutch you will drop your chain. On the other end I agree that you don't have to have a clutch, I had a 1x10 on my mountain bike several years ago without a clutch and did just fine, but clutch derailleurs were less common at the time. I did have a NW chainring and the system worked perfectly.
The narrow-wide does a better job of keeping your chain on. The clutch doesn't do much unless you're bouncing it off on potholes, etc. A typical non-clutched Deore 9 speed shadow (non-plus) derailleur has a nice stiff spring, which does help, and has the same cable pull ratio as a 10s shimano road shifter, so it'll just work. That's what I used on my old bike along with a normal narrow chainring, and it worked pretty okay. (probably dropped the chain around 5 times in 5 years. Not ideal, but I could deal with it) You definitely don't want to try and run a typical ramped ring. They're designed to let the chain fall off onto the lower ring, and if you're running without a derailleur or chain guide to keep it in line it'll fall off anytime you pedal while turning left, etc. ;) A single speed ring will work, a narrow-wide will work better.
Upgraded my bike a year ago, best upgrade so far. Raced Vätternrundan a 300km race here in Sweden at a respectable 8h so didn't make me any slower. You simply can't beat the simplicity and confidence that you get in a 1x when there's nothing that can go wrong with your front chainring.
Nice to hear that it works for you! I am going to race Vätternrundan this year and I am planning to convert my bike to a single chainring as well. Could you tell us about your specific setup?
I’ve been using the Force 1X drive for about 7 months. Recently completed a 100k Grand Fondo with 6000 ft. of climbing here in Korea on my 1X. The only drive train that got more stares or questions was my friend on his single speed. I love the 1x and can’t see going back. Thanks GCN for the objective review of a great system.
When I first started cycling within the last year, I used to cycle on a x3 drivetrain, usually on the middle ring but now having made so much progress I'm usually maxing out on the biggest ring and highest gears. I feel like an upgrade soon is necessary. I only paid £100-130 on my first bike.
My Orbea Aero was stripped-down on arrival in UK and all Shimano kit replaced with SRAM, including 1 x 11 from Shimano 2 x 11. The bike is ridiculously quick, sounds great, and all my best climbing segments were on this (including a 59th out of 5269 and I’m coming on 69!). I have a regular changer and do get some chain slap meaning the stay will need a wipe-down when I get home. Gearing is set up for the Cambridgeshire countryside and I’ve yet to find a gradient that’s an issue.
Keep preaching about wonders of 1x! I have SRAM Apex 1 on my commuter and it's wonderful. Can go anywhere with 44/11-42. Plus, that crankset has nice and clean look.
Milos Miljkovic is that setup good for very steep inclines? I'm looking to get back into cycling and Lisbon has some big hills and I'm not sure what setup to get. Especially being a weak rider for the moment.
1/1 gear ratio or around there is extremely spinny for on the road. So for example a 46t chainring and an 11-46 in the back. If you want it ultra spinny, you can go lower than that, for example 42t with 11-46. Then if you want pretty much no compromise in the low or high end of your gears, you can get a wheel that can take a sram xd freehub so you can stick a massive 9-46 cassette on there. Hope your drivetrain turns out well. To me, 1x really is the best system.
Converted my commuter to a 1x9, works for me since i rarely shift out of my 34T front chainring.. Works for me.. Its one less thing to wear out. Dunno about the pro scene though
While bike-travelling my front derailleur malfunctioned and I was was forced to do with only the smaller chainring (34T). I had something like 12-28 in the back. I then noticed that I really don't need the bigger (50T) chainring that much; I hardly need to pedal in speeds over 30km/h. So now I am considering 1xdrivetrain as permanent solution.
Most common pro setups are 53/39 with 11-28 for flats, and 50/36 with 11-32 for mountains. The closest you can get in 1x would be 50T ring and 44-10T MTB cassette and XD driver, using an aftermarket cassette expander for the 44T. Have fun with the huge ass steps between that!!!
Good to see a bit more of that gcn bike and getting nerdy on ratios and whatnot. The true, deep nerdyness is definitely part of why I like cycling and also GCN. Very stoked to see how all of this goes next year!
One graphic that should have been included is the number of gear overlaps on a 2x. For all 20 combos provided by 10 speed 50/34 11-36, there are 4-5 that are near duplicate, betwixt the small and large ring. Still, I have nominally 15 distinct ratios available for my do-it-all road bike. Given a flat race profile, 1x sounds great. No need to carry climbing cogs, in that case, and 11 ratios might cover the course. However, since UCI dictates 6.8 kilo min weight, there is no weight advantage for a rider using 1x compared with 2x. For the nerds, what is the rotating mass of a 2x compared to a 1x? Is it equal? #PerformanceCoachConundrums
Seth Dolcourt It doesn't matter how many distinct ratios there are on a 2x10 when a lot of them would require switching back and forth on the front ring. realistically, most people are going to stay in the big ring, until they hit a hill, and then go to the small ring, and stay there until they hit the flats again. They may use 15 or so gears since they likely shift rings in the middle of the cassette, but they're still not gaining the advantage of the narrow ratios you might calculate are possible since any given shift is just going to be up or down one cog. Effectively, you're probably gaining a couple gears at most. Really the worst case profile for a race on 1x would be something that's long periods with slight 1-2% grades (where you want to be able to ride like a TT with your optimum gear), and occasional very steep climbs that will need a large cog. Fortunately, most rides tend to favour one or the other, so I don't think it's a problem IRL. "Rotating mass" isn't as big a deal as people make it out to be, either. It matters from the perspective that the further the weight is from the centre of rotation, the more energy will be needed to accelerate it, so you would not want to ride with heavy rims/tires if you're racing crits (lots of accellerations), but for things like drivetrain components with the effect is pretty much zilch.
As always, everyone's technical needs are dictated by the riding they do. Where and how I ride, I use all ratios available to me. Having lived in the time when new bikes were spec'd with 42/52 and 6 speed cassettes.... I'm not going back to the Dark Ages. It's all good!
I've been riding with a kind-of 1x-setup for years on my Scott Waimea Pro. Simply removed my front derailleur, moved my 53T to the inside of the five arms from the crank and that's it. Got a cable and a shifter to spare, and the derailleur, of course. Fewer parts, less weight. No extraordinary wear on my chain or the chainring, or the sprockets. Now all I have is 8 gears left (12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21) and since I only have to encounter hills but no mountains (Denmark) it's more than sufficient. I could go up to 28 teeth without changing my rear derailleur, but I don't have to. Works absolutely perfect for me! Cost: zero bucks.
I wonder if everyone complaining about big cassette gaps has actually tried 1x... I love mine. Same range of gears as when I ran a compact chainset, lighter, simpler, less to think about, frame looks cleaner, better chain security, better chain line most of the time, cheaper to replace when it wears out. Even the larger gaps between gears are a plus for me. Fewer shifts, less wear. Don't mind varying my cadence a bit.
I really don't think they have, they also show their lack of overall cycling experience every time they make that comment. If they can't handle the jumps in 1x11 how on earth did they survive when we only had 5 to 7 gears back there?
I think a lot of them haven't tried a properly engineered 1x system. I personally find having to shift 3-4 rear gears in the opposite direction when I change the front ring on a 2x to be far more jarring to my cadence than the linear shift of a good 1x system.
I ride in a lumpy area of Sydney and get sick of jumping on the front derailer and inevitably being wrongly positioned on the back. The thought of sequential gearing appeals massively. What made you try it?
Going to 1x on my MTB has been fantastic especially so easy to swap out a chainring so fast now depending on the ride. CX has gone that way its just a matter of time for road pros. No more front mech to jam or fail less weigh and moving parts in the shifter too not to mention playing around with Q factor with only one chainring. Just need more players making cassettes out of lighter alloys and as affordable as ultegra etc and the move will be quick with a need to spend much to transition. Risk of drop chains and mech failure is one less thing to think about and less to work on.
1X are here to stay! I just bought a Specialized Awol comp and I really like the simplicity. I plan on using it for touring. Traditionalist will surely turn up their noses, but some riders need to move on. It’s not a coincidence that 1x has emerged from mountain and off road applications. Older riders like me can extend their yrs of riding enjoyment by embracing lower gearing and simpler mechs. My days of trying to race youngns are done, but adapting off road tech to road bikes will enable older riders to continue enjoying the sport without retrofitting 3x. Besides, 1x looks way better and cleaner than the alternatives!
5 years later and this comment is aging like moldy bread. Many people are finding out 1x is going backward for bicycles. the bike industry managed to figure out how to increase the cost of cassettes and chains while increasing the wear of them simultaneously, it was a brilliant move of marketing...
I'm not even a serious cyclist. I'm just a regular mechanic who rides in whatever I'm wearing at the time and I felt it was time to build myself a bike. First thing I did with regards to gears was look up SRAM because I hear such good things about their gears, and I came across the 1xX drivetrains when I saw the SRAM Eagle system. I stopped right there. Didn't even consider alternatives. Said to myself 'that's what I'm going to choose'. Why? Simplicity. Does the job. It performs just as well as a traditional front/rear gear setup but it's way easier to maintain - 1 less cable and mech to go wrong. Also keeps the handlebars looking cleaner since you only have the one shifter lever. I'm running 10-50t which covers all bases. It just goes to show, we don't need front dérailleurs anymore. We needed them in the past because we couldn't fit so many sprockets onto a cassette so it wasn't possible to get decent ratios. Well now it is. Well front dérailleur, you're not needed anymore. I won't miss you. You were often a pain to set up and maintain, and just another set of cables to replace. Do yourself a favour and ditch the front gears. Their days are over.
What are the details of your bike? So you have the Eagle cassette but is the rest of it mtn or is it a hybrid with a flat bar and the required 12 speed eagle shifters?
I have several bikes with compact 50/34 and 11-32 or 11-28 cassettes. My latest bike has a 1x (44) and a 10-42 cassette. I calculated all the gear ratios I had (from 50x11 - 9.64 down to 34x32 - 2.25 and 44x10 - 9.33 down to 44x42 - 2.22). The only place the 1x really loses out is in the faster gears - 50x11 isn't much different to 44x10, but on the 1x the next gear is 44x12 (7.78), which is close to 50x14 (7.57), so misses out the 50x12 and 50x13. I do notice this on the road when bombing along (i.e. the missing 2 gears at 25+mph), but not in "normal" riding. The 34x large cog options are all pretty similar to the 44, so when in serious climbing mode (10% plus gradients), there is no lack of gears. So my conclusion would be a normal to slow rider would have no problems with running a 1x, but a fast rider might need to compromise on climbing gears if they don't want to lose fast speed gears. At least if comparing a compact to a 44 tooth 1x.
Previously lived in a very flat area. Used straight block rear cogs. Small difference in effort between gears. Now in a more hilly area. Bigger difference between large cogs. Sometimes more difficult to find the "right" gear with the larger cog spacing. Think the 1x will have the same inefficient gear choice with the wider cog spacing.
So, instead of one click with the front derailleur you need to swap your cassette and possibly the chainring when you want to ride mountains instead of flats or vice versa. And you have larger gaps between gears. Seems extremely practical for everyday riding. I wonder if the car industry will get inspiration from this: "This radical new innovation will allow you to drive around the town with very slight (partially imaginary) improvements. And then if you want to drive around the countryside you just have to swap the engine..."
I’ve been running a 1x on the road for the last year and love it. I do think that is roadies have been very spoilt with 1 tooth jumps in sprockets and it’s made us very lazy with our cadence. Riders don’t have the versatility in their rev range anymore and thus think that if they are 5rpm over their normal cadence that they’re “revving out”. It wasn’t that long ago that a 2 or 3 tooth jump was normal. That said, I’m very interested in the 3T 9-32 cassette that has ratios 9-10-11-12-13-15-17-20-24-28-32.
I built a 1x10 using shimano deore and was hooked for life, I also run a 1x8 Claris and it works perfect and both are a shit load cheaper than SRAM . The gaps aren't an issue in the real world and cassettes are available 11/40 even in 8 and 9 speed so you don't need a big budget to start
I'm a MTBiker and I once used a 3x setup with a chainring of 24-32-44 and a cassette of 13-36. I switched to a 1x, with a 36T chainring and 11-46 cogs. 1x setups are way more lighter, needs less maintenance, less-complicated to tune, and for me it looks nice. Since I'm a sort of climber, the 46T cog helped me a lot, and my climbing performance pretty much increased by approximately 5% or so, however, my top speed reduced too by a whole 5%. The negative sides of a 1x setup is the range, unlike a 2x or 3x setup which can provide a more smooth transition of power and a gentler power curve. 1x setup may also sometimes shift rough, since it has a larger difference on tooth count from cog to cog.
My touring/gravel/bikepacking rig is currently running a 42 narrow/wide up front and 10-42 in rear with Ultegra RX. Wolf Tooth makes a replacement derailleur mount for the RX which positions it far enough back to use those gears, shifts precisely enough for me and gives a great range for climbing the steepest terrain I'm comfortable on with a bike loaded with gear. Pretty cool tech these days! Also worth checking out the Wolf Tooth tanpan component which allows you to run a MTB rear derailleur with integrated road shifters. The level of innovation/hacking is incredible.
I have 3x7 on my everyday bike, and I honestly only use the top of the three sprockets, even when climbing overpass spiral ramps while saddled. Thinking of adding a brake cable splitter and completely removing the left hand controls.
Given that I sometimes find the jumps on my 11-32 to be too much, and they really aren't that big, I can't see this being practical for racing. I actually find gearing quite awkward on steep climbs. I like to spin at a higher cadence (say 100 rpm on a climb), however, for training, if I want to do small increments to my power (say 10w), it's actually quite hard to do. It seems that if I want to sustain the same cadence, the jumps in power required to spin a harder gear can be around 20w+, which is significant for a long climb (I often find myself in a situation where i'm not quite at my limit, but equally, wouldn't have enough strength to push one gear harder). I imagine with one of those meaty cassettes, the large jumps are just going to make it hard for riders to find an ideal cadence at the power they want to sustain on a given climb.
Learn to adapt to other cadences, get out of your saddle. What do you do when you have a climb where you can't spin with 100 rpm even with the 32 tooth sprocket?
True, though I don't have any long and steep climbs near me which necessitate grinding for longer periods of time. I do mix in standing up to balance the load, but I just mean more in general, having to do frequent cadence shifts, or going off your "optimal" will still have a negative impact. Like, It's not like its impossible for me to grind or anything, I am just more efficient at a higher RPM, and when you are counting seconds in a pro race, wasting efficiency deviating from your ideal cadence by larger amounts can't be good
1x rocks! I rode 42/52 traditional setup for two decades. I then ride compact (improvement) for a few years before behind hot by a car, destroying my frame, and breaking two vertebrae. I now ride Force 1x and I AM NEVER GOING BACK TO A FRONT DERAILLEUR... EVER!!!
Lol... The comments on this video are enlightening. I thought fanboys were a problem for video games, thought cycling might have a more mature and reasoned crowd. How wrong I was...
BMC Racemachine #1: SRAM 11-32 11 speed cassette, plus single Rotor Q-ring 52t BMC Racemachine #2: Shimano 13t cog, plus SRAM 52t chainring, and 42t 3rd party ring, Paul Components dual jockey wheel tensioner. Nothing super special, but I don't race. The tensioner needs a little adjustment at the moment.
Cyclocross commuter here. I had 50-34 and 11-28 and hated it for flatter, moderate riding - 34 was too small and 50 too big. Switched to 36x46 and 11-28, which was much better, but still dealing with front mech issues as I would occasionally bend the thing in one way or another and endlessly fiddle with it. Now I have a 1x - 42 up front and 11-32 in the back. Love it for commuting. I'm typically right in the middle, and have far less to worry about. It's not for everyone but it's definitely best for me.
When pros start winning on 1x, I’ll start listening. So far unproven. Also, a pro has the aerobic capacity with EPO, transfusions, or whatever they’re doing now to spin higher gears like Lance did. If I go this way the cost for the clenbuterol will offset any savings of 1x.
Basic arithmetic still proves for any possible rear cogset, 1 chainring cannot possibly match 2 (or 3 on good old MTB). The giant pie plate rear cogs necessary to reach low lows, and keep an adequate high range still fail to match a simpler, smaller range with the front gears placing the entire set of rear cogs into a higher or lower zone. Period. Finally, road riders especially are finally able to fine tune cadence with 2x11, versus the old days of 2x5; 1x even 12 is still worse than 2x6, as the extra size range rear cogs bend the chain in a sideways plane which is not occurring with smaller rear cogs. Time trial bikes, ridden by pros, may generally find a 1x setup perfectly adequate; pop in a steep pitch, and I suspect not so much. Flat races perhaps, where pros likely need only three gears in an entire day; but if you want versatility, and realistic ability to limp home after fifty miles too many, I guarantee you will be cursing any configuration which fails to acknowledge ordinary limitations. SRAM not coincidentally, is largely noticeably absent in pro teams, I suspect after the shifting debacles that failed Andy Schleck back when. The fact that SRAM is the brand most to blame for these unwarranted, undesired, unnecessary, and suspicious "revolutions" speaks volumes about how marketing hype runs the industry, and how gullible too many younger riders are, without having watched the evolution of the machine over fifty years actually pedalling one. The sad fact that any pro team is so desperate for sponsor money that they are willing to ride inferior gear harks all the way back to the 7 Eleven era, when they had to beg for proper tires to be competitive, and ditched their sponsor's product. Just because any pro rides anything, does not mean that is a better, or even adequate choice - it's what they get paid to ride.
Yes. 1x is a good setup, but not as flexible as a 2x. My daily commuter is a 3x. I guess there is market for everything. I agree with you particularly on the part where you say the pros are paid to ride specific components. It is a big mess whenever they choose to ride another brand.
I still ride a triple. 3x11 Campy Athena! I love close ratio 12-25 with that 18t cog between 17 and 19! The only flaw in this groupset is it has 94mm BCD for the inner chainring and comes with 30t. You can possibly squeeze a 29t but that's it. I still think about modding it or getting some older 10s triple with 74bcd to allow me a 24t granny. 30x25 is nearly the same as 34x28, which in a few places around here just isn't enough! The local murder hill hits 25% in a couple spots. It averages 11% but ondulates, often goes beyond 20%. So for that I ride the 12-29 cassette and I still wish I had much lower gears! There's now a 12-32 Centaur cassette that I might try, but then I loose that all important 16t cog, and I already miss the 18t. So a 24t or even 23t inner ring (74bcd) would have solved this issue, but Campy missed the point, and it's probably the reason this 3x11 Athena didn't take off and only lasted from 2013 to 2015. So many cycletourists could have loved it. And a few geeks like me who love close ratio cassettes and also enjoy climbing walls! But it's still better than 50/34! And I can live with just two cassette sizes!
so to acheive the same spread of gears as a 2 by set up you carry 4 cassettes , 2 rear derailiers and the tools required in a back pack to change the parts out simples
My choice for one bike to rule them all is Genesis Croix de fer with Sram Rival 1x granny gears edition (42/10-42) and hydraulic discs. Sold as Croix de fer Decade. It is perfect and neat looking set for daily use in any weather or for camping adventures. Not a snappy or fast by any means, but lovable and reliable workhorse as only bike to possess. Of course, for someone more fit and for snappier frame, different gear ratio would be required. So, I love my experiences with 1x and suggest it for anyone, not pro, at least.
Kay Voyager wouldn’t say the bike industry caus its great for enduro bikes. I was actually wondering if this exist for roadbikes since i bought one lately. (So I can’t realy speak for roadbikes)
@@piotr477 if bike is used in mild conditions then 1x is OK but if more extreme conditions apear than 2x or even 3x offers much more flexibility. Try it and you'll see. I know it's trendy and more simple and looks good but from efficiency point of view 1x it's not very good. Anyway if you like it then it's good enough but more efficient options are 2x or 3x.
I use it for CX racing and it is very good for that. no chain slap, no chain rolling of in the front, and very important for a private racer no mud stacking up on the front derailleur (less bike swaps).
As ever an incredibly clear and educative tech video, love it! Especially since I'm on the lookout for a new road bike and 1x is definitely on the table! Keep at it guys! 👍
You make an excellent argument for these, Si, and I can see why they are increasing in popularity. And I am not stuck in the past but for me, a snappy commuter, I still enjoy using a triple and having all those gears at the twist of a grip. And I am constantly shifting and getting in and out of the saddle as I ride my '90s GT mountain bike on the road.
I have been thinking about a 1x for a few years now. I live in South Texas in the RGV wear it is pan flat for over 100 miles in all directions but is windy. Most of my riding is pack riding with my fast friends and I hang out in the back a lot. For this kind of riding I thing a 50 with a 28-12 would work. And one thing that no one has said is that it looks COOL
yeah. If I was somewhere that flat, I would go even tighter on the cassette. If you can gear it so that you're crusing in the 16-18t range with single tooth jumps it's super nice having shifts that feel like half of a normal gear to tweak your cadence by a few rpm.
I actually enjoyed listening about gear ratios. It's hard to find people willing to discuss gears these days. All the gear and no idea 💡 Thanks a lot 🙏 🤗 🙏
I think I would need to feel the gear changes. I just got my first road bike that is 2x11 with 11-28 cogs and the shifts are so close together you barely feel it. Disclaimer is I'm new to road and long distance cycling so I felt the difference for sure. After about 3 weeks of riding that setup I took my mountain bike out with the SRAM NX 1x11 with 11-42 cogs setup and I could definitely feel the change/jump in gears when I would shift. It felt like I needed a gear in between each shift. The 11-42 is a bigger gear range than the one he's talking about for general use, so I'd definitely be interested in riding something with 11-36 where it's closer together. I'd also be super interested when SRAM and Shimano come out with 12 speed road setups and also 13 speed setups since those have started to be developed as well by other companies.
I realize that I am late to party. I built my first 10 speed (2x5) in 1980 and then completed a 96 mile ride. Fast forward to 2012. I decided to participate in a century ride on a 1990 road bike. I was familiar with gear ratio overlap in 2x so I decided to convert my road bike to 1x. The 100 mile included some hills. I stuck with the original crankset with 52/42 chainrings. I removed the 42 ring and front derailleur and used a 11-36 10 speed cassette. The rear derailleur was from a mountain bike. It wasn't flawless but I was satisfied. I am glad to see the progress to date on 1x systems.
I still ride a triple. 3x11 Campy Athena! I love close ratio 12-25 with that 18t cog between 17 and 19! The only flaw in this groupset is it has 94mm BCD for the inner chainring and comes with 30t small ring. You can possibly squeeze a 29t but that's it. I still think about modding it or getting some older 10s triple with 74bcd to allow me a 24t granny. 30x25 is nearly the same as 34x28, which in a few places around here just isn't enough! The local murder hill hits 25% in a couple spots. It averages 11% but ondulates, often goes beyond 20%. So for that I ride the 12-29 cassette and I still wish I had much lower gears in a few spots! There's now a 12-32 Centaur cassette that I might try, but then I loose that all important 16t cog, and I already miss the 18t when riding 12-29. So a 24t or even 23t inner ring (74bcd) would have solved this issue, but Campy missed the point, and it's probably the reason this 3x11 Athena didn't take off and only lasted from 2013 to 2015. So many cycletourists could have loved it. And a few geeks like me who love close ratio cassettes and also enjoy climbing walls! But it's still better than 50/34, and I can live with just two cassette sizes! I have a gravel (or drop bar mtb? 2.35" tires...) that has a 3x10 with 12-36 cassette, so that's lots of gaps everywhere except 12-13. I think 11t is useless and just wear fast. Well, I can live with those jumps in gearing, this is a training/touring bike, and I do need that 580% range because I do hit very steep dirt climbs, but also do fast road riding with it. All the range get's used. I considered a 12-27 cassette on that bike before building, but first built with 12-36 because I already had the cassette, only to realize I needed really low gears on some occasions. One would need a 14s cassette with ridiculously wide range to match that. And I still wish I had some extra cogs in between. With all that said, I'm considering getting some 1x stuff. One use is a TT bike that won't see any serious hill. Another reason is I really wan't to experiment with really short cranks (115 to 135mm) and oval chainrings (can't go oval on triple). I could go oval with normal length cranks, but with short cranks you should spin faster anyway, this means smaller 38t chainring, and riding double 38/34 is pointless. I also have a road frame (well, the front triangle of a crashed Columbus Life frame waiting to have the rear triangle rebuilt) at hand that I'm considering building 1x disc brakes, because I can train year round without fear of trashing good rims, and also I can ride some wide and deep aero wheels such as LightBycicle WR56, so it's great for crappy roads and cobbles, and I do go to many races with terrible roads and also cobbles, and no fear of delaminating carbon rims... And there 1x without chainslap can be quite nice. Bikes end up taking too much of my mental energy, oh god!!!
I remember the grifter having 3 gears controlled by a twist grip on the handlebars. Occasionally it would slip sometimes causing me to go flying off the bike because there was no longer any resistance on the pedal stroke. Dangerous as hell but I loved my grifter. A mate of mine bashed his head against a brick wall when it happened on his bike and had to be taken to hospital for a few stitches.
My cross / winter bike has got a 1x with a 44 chainring and 10-42 at the back. It's brilliant for club runs and has pretty much the same range as my 50/34, 11-32 on my other bike.
No one has mentioned that when you’re actually riding (and not talking about it) 1x is just a lot of fun to ride. Aside from all the technical talk about gear range and jumps, it’s just a simple and intuitive interface (for me) & hence more fun.
I have a SRAM eTap Red WiFli Hydraulic road group which was on my dream road bike but it was upsetting because it didn't shift well no matter how much I tried to dial it in. The front chain drops were annoying a Hell. I moved the group to my cyclocross bike, took the front derailleur out of the picture and installed a single narrow wide 40T chainring with a 34T cassette and glory days again. I now have electronic shifting on my cyclocross bike which the left lever moves the shifts up the cassette and the right lever moves the chain down. Simple and perfect.
I was a bit cynical about 1x as well before until I actually got a Sram Force 1 groupset. This was after plotting everything in an excel spreadsheet with all the ratios, jumps between gears etc. My biggest concern was the jumps in gears being too big. Some of the jumps are a bit big on the 10-42 cassette (17%). This won’t suit everyone however it really comes down to personal preference. However one of the advantages of 1x is the simpler and better quality shifting. No more double shifting, and no front derailleur which can’t shift as well or as quickly as a rear derailleur can under heavy loads like steep inclines.
bikecalc.com/ It's so much faster than doing it yourself. I also like yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php for checking reach/stack adjustments before buying parts.
You shouldn't shift a front derailleur "under heavy loads", or a rear one for that matter. It only takes a fraction of a second to ease off the pressure to allow it to shift virtually load-free. So that argument doesn't class as an advantage of 1x over front derailleurs
A few years back I did a Google spreadsheet of the various clusters and chainrings for a 1x on my mountain bike. All I had to do is look at the graphics for the answers. I'm still waiting until SRAM does this with a wireless group. I'll wait forever if I have to.
I have a 1x on my commuting bike. It makes my bike very light, feels like a drag racing bike, but I'm missing some top speed. Luckily in the city top speed doesn't matter much.
I'm an old fart (72) recreational rider. I now adore 1x. I have a Black Mountain steel bike I'll call an allroad and it has a 1x, 38t with 11-40 10 speed and a carbon Volagi bike I call "forever" with 1x, 42t with 11-40 11 speed. Wolf Tooth makes wide/narrow 'rings down to 34t and 11-42 is an option for either so I don't think I'll ever consider 2x again.
Si, you never fail to amuse me with your sense of humor. I love my 1x on my MTB, maybe one day i'll get a road bike with it too? If my wife will let me get another bike that is.
Obviously we have to take into account the terrain we ride on. I ride an old seven speed that I’ve made into a 1x & I love it. I live in Florida & can handle any hill with the cassette I’ve built (12,13,14,15,17,21,24) with no major snap & minimal cross chainning. So if anyone lives on mostly flat terrain, 1x is a great idea & a seven speed is perfect & a little less weight & complication. However, if I ever move back to the mountains I used to live in, I’m going back to 2x & a 10speed cassette!
Me too, and I'll stick with it as I will never run out of gears on descents. 3x is much better and thats what I grew up knowing. This new style I think is bullshit, a lack of gears is not me at all and u see people are so sheepish, and just follow trends, this x1 setup is just a stupid trend.
@@rickyman6651 Just as 3 x was 20 years ago; the difference is that you have grown up being used to it. Yet now the majority of sets are 2 x and the top gear isn't any shorter - and it's easy to get the same top ratio on a 1 x. There are plenty of arguments why 1 x may not be optimal, but "not running out of gears on descents" is not one. A "lack of gears" isn't a particularly good one either - I calculated the gear ratios of my 3 x 9 MTB gear train: there are actually only 15 ratios that are more than 5% apart from each other, even though the total range goes from 4:1 (44/11) to 0.65:1 (22/34) - and yet there are some pretty big jumps in there (20%). A 3 x whatever road train will be worse in terms of overlap, since the total range is going to be narrower. This is not meant to be a defense of 1 x - I'm just pointing out that your arguments against it don't particularly hold.
me too, but I love the simplicity, I ride 99% of the time in my big ring and I live in the hill country of TX. I always find myself skipping through 2 or three before I am am not spinning out. I wonder if now that it has been a couple of years that they use the eagle or that 10/36 cassette?
Ive got 3x, in 28 inch trekking bike, with 27.5 wheels & 8 speed 23-11 road casette. For a while I had mullet with 622 wheel on front but it felt too slugish.
I've always had a 1x chainring on my fixie :D In all honesty tho, I'd welcome this just cz it would make it much easier to clean the gunk between the chain ring and the FD that is always so hard to. Prices of 1X drivetrains are still at a premium tho [even more so considering you're getting less parts] so I"d take a rain-check for now.
Been doing 1x on my flatbar for years now… still using Di2 in the rear just for good measure. Got a Force1 42 front and Ultegra 12-25 in the back… seems well for city/street use.
I would definitely buy a 1x especially if it was available as standard. It would also make changing gear easier to understand for new riders who sometimes are uncomfortable with shifting.
In fact i reckon unless you are a total pro with quads of oak, a 48t with an 11-36 is plenty. My current bike has a 52t and i hardly spend any time in top, mostly on long descents. I spend most of the time in the middle of the cassette.
My issue is chain line. Do you need to use a specific 1x crankset or can you get away with 2x11 with just one chainring. If so do use the inner or outer chainring mounting position?
I still love my Ultegra triple, a 52/39 with the 30 chainring for use in the Alps ! ( 10 speed 11-28 at the back) Its not fashionable, but it has a huge range, no real weight penalty (the 30 tooth ring weights nothing,) and I only swap cassettes when they are worn out ! Chris in St. Albans (- unless climbing in the Pennines or the Alps)
I changed out my 39 inner ring for a 36 so I have a 53/36 with an 11-28 on the back, on a shimano ultegra 6800. I have not had any problems with this ratio. I've been using it 18 months. I just found the 39 a bit too hard on the knees. It's the best of both worlds a 53 for the flat and a 36 for the handlebar munching.
I’ve been running 1x for the past 3 years. On my previous road bike I built it with a 48t cr and a 11-34 cassette, unfortunately I cracked that bike so my new bike is setup with a 50t cr and 11-28 cassette, I’m a lot fitter than I was, road bike only really gets used for commuting, but do do some training rides on it and I think 1x is great for that!
I use a 1x setup on my MTB and I thinks its great BUT unless I can get a big rear cassette that is very very light and as affordable as the big brand cassettes then its 2x for my road bike for now. Some bespoke manufacturers are making very nice and very light alloy and titanium cassettes out of Taiwan but they are still for the fat wallet brigade. Its definitely the way its all going and ultimately we're going to be seeing exotic lightweight planetary hub gearboxes on race bikes before long. The Shimano di2 touring 11 spd hub with the belt drive is very impressive and if they can make that half the weight and an 11-36 equivalent then i'm going there asap. No more gunked up chains would be heaven
I won plenty of races on my 1x Allez Sprint this year. 50, 11/32, XTR Di2. Kick ass setup, zero issues, not sure I could go back. Only con is all the downshifts at stops lights while city riding.
1x is awesome for the mountain bike world, it's sooo much better in nearly all situations. For road I'm a little skeptical, though I do love the convenience of it on my Commuter/rigid/full sus bike.
While bike-travelling my front derailleur malfunctioned and I was was forced to do with only the smaller chainring (34T). I had something like 12-28 in the back. I then noticed that I really don't need the bigger (50T) chainring that much; I hardly need to pedal in speeds over 30km/h. So now I am considering 1xdrivetrain as permanent solution. Maybe with 11-32 in the back and 34T (or a little bit bigger) in the front.
love the 3T setup... just need something like that down at a price us normal people can buy! I converted my mountain bike to 1x 15 years ago and machined off all the bits I no longer needed - ahead of the curve ;)
Good idea for a winter bike, with a sensible rear cassette as opposed to the "granny" dustbin lids adorning the rear wheel. Other than that, I will stick with my front deralleur thanks.
I switched to 1x9 drivetrain on my commuter and I quickly found that steps between gears is a real problem, and there is no cassette on the market with gearing that would suit me. It could be solved if we were free to buy any cogs we like and build our own cassettes. But unfortunately we are stuck with whatever manufacturers think we need (not what we really need). I don't see why you would need a derailleur with clutch on road bike though. Ran over 1000km on regular derailleur with no problems...
My gravel bike use SRAM GX with 42/11-46 setup.. most people complain its sometimes look weird when the cassette are bigger than the chain ring for a road bike frame.but i love to see the setup,its look clean and simple.but sometimes,i got a problem to have optimum cadence because of the limitation gear ratios.but its ok..
Wtf? The need for 50-11 means you are an insanely strong rider and 50-50 means you can't do shit... 11-36 is just perfect for me with nice little steps between the gears. Why do you want such wide ranged cassette?
Max Mustermann 50-50 any different from 34-34? It's 1 to 1, no matter how you gear it. And if you live in a hilly area, you can hit 50-10 every ride no problem (on the downs)
Why do you need to paddle if it is going down? Only Frome does that. I means honestly, you don't need to shave off the last seconds if you are not competing in a race... If you need a 1:1 gear ratio, then you will need 50:50 but that is by far the minority.
Another advantage - night riding, if you can't see the gear indicators. With only one shifter, you don't have to try and figure out which is the most appropriate shifter to use.
I'm a bit old school and tend to prefer tight gear ratios (I use mostly 11-23 cassettes). However, front derailleurs really suck and not having to deal with one of these is on its own a good reason to swich to 1x drivetrain
Let us know what you think of 1x drivetrains.
👇
So "cross-chaining" isn't an issue anymore? Especially with shorter chainstays?
Since they (Aqua Blue) are sponsored by 3T, one would assume that they would use 3T cassettes as well. How about mentioning such options for the gear ratios?
You need the smaller, more granular steps of a 2x for varied terrain on a road bike. 1x is fine for flats and dirt, though. The Strada ought to be marketed purely as a crit bike.
To recreate the 53-39/11-28 gear ratio, the team will most likely be running a 44T chainring with the 9-32 3T bailout cassette. I'm guessing 3T will also come out with a 9-36 or 9-40 cassette for those few Zoncolan/Angliru/... kind of race days. Steps on the 9-32 cassette are actually not all that bad, would be better with a 12speed drivetrain though.
SRAM allows cross-chaining even on their 2x setups.
I converted my Giant Defy to 1x. Sram 50 tooth at the front and 11/34 compact rear cassette. Added some 50mm zipps and the bike rides smooth as silk. Best change to a bike I ever made!
As a weekend rider, I have been using 1x setup for a while and I loved it. Its so simple and clean, gear ratio works fine on hilly/flat roads. I'm currently using 42t chainring with 11-42t cassette on a titanium frame. Bike weight 7.6kg and it rides really well on most roads. 90rpm on 42t x11t would bring me around 38kmh on a flat road here. (put away speed calculator, considering road/wind/traffic condition) and on climbs I would hit on 42t x 42t, could easily spin up any hills in my township. I also travel with this bike around South East Asia to ride with friends from different countries, the gear ratio just works. :)
Just sharing my opinion on 1x setup as a weekend rider, (Not a racer or associated with any cycling groups)
I still have a 2x setup bike at home....works fine too...but I think I'm leaning towards 1x setup.
Happy Riding guys! :)
Well by now we know 1x in pro road racing sucked like hell so 3t had to go back to 2x setup 🤣😂🤣😂🤣 i love when marketing fails like this
And disc brakes follow 😁
I am using 1 X 12 .... 30 t chainring and 11/50 .. its all off road and its working fine ... I am 62 so dont go fast , I just chill and enjoy :-)
@@ernestoechevers4741 I looked up how Aqua Blue did with the 3T 1X. They actually did have some success. That said, for us "mere mortals" who aren't pro riders, I would argue 1X isn't a bad choice at all.
@@ernestoechevers4741 It's not all about marketing. Some people (like myself) who don't give a toss about racing will prefer the simplicity of a 1x
This should take the heat off disc brakes/gravel bikes/sock length for a while 😊
Haha, excellent point!
Best comment I've read so far 😂
Yes, finally!
Ken Goddard
I very much prefer disc up front no matter the type of terrain but rear idc too much.
Late to comment here but the other day happened to see some dude with sucks up to the knee 😁
For pros I think the key to 1x would be a more customisable rear cassette and maybe derailleur. I can imagine lightly larger gaps aren't such and issue if you can fully customise your ratios to the rider and the days profile, which I think is a simpler and more realistic prospect with a 1x setup. Heck, if it's a pan flat stage and you're running a 1x why not drop down to a 7 speed for the day :-)
As a very-much-non-pro for me I could live with the lightly larger gaps for the simplicity and neatness of the setup. For casual riding as long as I have the range I can live with slightly more variation in cadence.
Most prominent here though is quite how heated this comments section is. Some cyclists be crrrrazy about how they think things should be :-)
Im using a 40x 10-42 love it for commuting
The thing you neglected is the fact that on a 2x system you may only need to change 1 gear (front ring) when going up and down the hills - whereas when all you have is your rear 11-cog set then you are going to have to do many changes up and down to get where you want to be.
Great subject and video. I switched to a 1x for my road bike last year and I'm very happy. But I disagree with one point -- you do NOT need a clutch derailleur on the rear. The clutch mechanism is primarily needed for cyclo-cross and off-road use. It would probably be a good idea for a gravel bike, too. That's because it's primary purpose is to minimize chain slap when riding on rough trails while shifted into a small sprocket. However, on the road chain slap is not usually an issue. If you're using a 11x32 cassette or smaller, the chain will be plenty tight enough and you can use a regular road rear derailleur. In fact, that's what Tony Martin did with his TT bike -- he had a road SRAM eTap rear derailleur (which does not use a clutch). I've been using a conventional rear derailleur with my 1x setup on the road and have had zero problems. I plan to upgrade to an eTap system in the near future.
I would go for a clutch derailleur and skip the narrow-wide chain ring, the extra tension will translate into longer chain life. But first try out what you have got before buying stuff you don´t need.
I would not skip the narrow wide chainring, even with a clutch you will drop your chain. On the other end I agree that you don't have to have a clutch, I had a 1x10 on my mountain bike several years ago without a clutch and did just fine, but clutch derailleurs were less common at the time. I did have a NW chainring and the system worked perfectly.
I wonder if SRAM have a dedicated 1x eTap derailleur with clutch in the works. Surely...
I use a 1x on my tt rig, all I changed was the chainring (n/w) and adjusted the chainlength.
The narrow-wide does a better job of keeping your chain on. The clutch doesn't do much unless you're bouncing it off on potholes, etc. A typical non-clutched Deore 9 speed shadow (non-plus) derailleur has a nice stiff spring, which does help, and has the same cable pull ratio as a 10s shimano road shifter, so it'll just work.
That's what I used on my old bike along with a normal narrow chainring, and it worked pretty okay. (probably dropped the chain around 5 times in 5 years. Not ideal, but I could deal with it)
You definitely don't want to try and run a typical ramped ring. They're designed to let the chain fall off onto the lower ring, and if you're running without a derailleur or chain guide to keep it in line it'll fall off anytime you pedal while turning left, etc. ;)
A single speed ring will work, a narrow-wide will work better.
Upgraded my bike a year ago, best upgrade so far.
Raced Vätternrundan a 300km race here in Sweden at a respectable 8h so didn't make me any slower.
You simply can't beat the simplicity and confidence that you get in a 1x when there's nothing that can go wrong with your front chainring.
Nice to hear that it works for you! I am going to race Vätternrundan this year and I am planning to convert my bike to a single chainring as well. Could you tell us about your specific setup?
In thirty five years of riding bikes, nothing has ever gone wrong with my front chainring/derailleur!
I’ve been using the Force 1X drive for about 7 months. Recently completed a 100k Grand Fondo with 6000 ft. of climbing here in Korea on my 1X. The only drive train that got more stares or questions was my friend on his single speed. I love the 1x and can’t see going back. Thanks GCN for the objective review of a great system.
When I first started cycling within the last year, I used to cycle on a x3 drivetrain, usually on the middle ring but now having made so much progress I'm usually maxing out on the biggest ring and highest gears. I feel like an upgrade soon is necessary.
I only paid £100-130 on my first bike.
On my road bike I put on a 1x and a 10-42 cassette and just LOVE it. I would highly recommend it if you live in a place with more mountains.
I've been thinking of doing this.
What size chainring are you using?
Oh cool! What size chain ring do you use, please 😊
Chainring size? 50+?
I suspect he’s using a 46
My Orbea Aero was stripped-down on arrival in UK and all Shimano kit replaced with SRAM, including 1 x 11 from Shimano 2 x 11. The bike is ridiculously quick, sounds great, and all my best climbing segments were on this (including a 59th out of 5269 and I’m coming on 69!). I have a regular changer and do get some chain slap meaning the stay will need a wipe-down when I get home. Gearing is set up for the Cambridgeshire countryside and I’ve yet to find a gradient that’s an issue.
Keep preaching about wonders of 1x! I have SRAM Apex 1 on my commuter and it's wonderful. Can go anywhere with 44/11-42. Plus, that crankset has nice and clean look.
I love my 46/11-42 also! I prefer the wider gaps between gears. You only need to change 1 gear at a time instead of several.
Milos Miljkovic is that setup good for very steep inclines? I'm looking to get back into cycling and Lisbon has some big hills and I'm not sure what setup to get. Especially being a weak rider for the moment.
1/1 gear ratio or around there is extremely spinny for on the road. So for example a 46t chainring and an 11-46 in the back. If you want it ultra spinny, you can go lower than that, for example 42t with 11-46. Then if you want pretty much no compromise in the low or high end of your gears, you can get a wheel that can take a sram xd freehub so you can stick a massive 9-46 cassette on there. Hope your drivetrain turns out well. To me, 1x really is the best system.
Clint Jones cheers mate
@@mdtaylor2274 I have two bikes with 1×11, 30/11-42 and 40/11-40. For steep places, 30/11-42 on my Raleigh Tokul 3 will work better...
I use 42 chainring with 11-34 cassette on my CAADX cyclocross and I love it! Simple, light, good-looking!
Ninja Revenge do you use it on any Country lanes and how do you find it
3T developed a cassette with a 9 tooth top cog specifically for this frame. That + a 52 chainring and you're above the 53/11 on a conventional setup.
E13 made the cassette
Converted my commuter to a 1x9, works for me since i rarely shift out of my 34T front chainring.. Works for me.. Its one less thing to wear out. Dunno about the pro scene though
While bike-travelling my front derailleur malfunctioned and I was was forced to do with only the smaller chainring (34T). I had something like 12-28 in the back. I then noticed that I really don't need the bigger (50T) chainring that much; I hardly need to pedal in speeds over 30km/h. So now I am considering 1xdrivetrain as permanent solution.
Most common pro setups are 53/39 with 11-28 for flats, and 50/36 with 11-32 for mountains. The closest you can get in 1x would be 50T ring and 44-10T MTB cassette and XD driver, using an aftermarket cassette expander for the 44T. Have fun with the huge ass steps between that!!!
11-25 for flats. No pro is going to need a 28 on a flat.
Good to see a bit more of that gcn bike and getting nerdy on ratios and whatnot. The true, deep nerdyness is definitely part of why I like cycling and also GCN.
Very stoked to see how all of this goes next year!
One graphic that should have been included is the number of gear overlaps on a 2x. For all 20 combos provided by 10 speed 50/34 11-36, there are 4-5 that are near duplicate, betwixt the small and large ring. Still, I have nominally 15 distinct ratios available for my do-it-all road bike.
Given a flat race profile, 1x sounds great. No need to carry climbing cogs, in that case, and 11 ratios might cover the course. However, since UCI dictates 6.8 kilo min weight, there is no weight advantage for a rider using 1x compared with 2x.
For the nerds, what is the rotating mass of a 2x compared to a 1x? Is it equal? #PerformanceCoachConundrums
Seth Dolcourt It doesn't matter how many distinct ratios there are on a 2x10 when a lot of them would require switching back and forth on the front ring. realistically, most people are going to stay in the big ring, until they hit a hill, and then go to the small ring, and stay there until they hit the flats again. They may use 15 or so gears since they likely shift rings in the middle of the cassette, but they're still not gaining the advantage of the narrow ratios you might calculate are possible since any given shift is just going to be up or down one cog. Effectively, you're probably gaining a couple gears at most.
Really the worst case profile for a race on 1x would be something that's long periods with slight 1-2% grades (where you want to be able to ride like a TT with your optimum gear), and occasional very steep climbs that will need a large cog. Fortunately, most rides tend to favour one or the other, so I don't think it's a problem IRL.
"Rotating mass" isn't as big a deal as people make it out to be, either. It matters from the perspective that the further the weight is from the centre of rotation, the more energy will be needed to accelerate it, so you would not want to ride with heavy rims/tires if you're racing crits (lots of accellerations), but for things like drivetrain components with the effect is pretty much zilch.
As always, everyone's technical needs are dictated by the riding they do. Where and how I ride, I use all ratios available to me. Having lived in the time when new bikes were spec'd with 42/52 and 6 speed cassettes.... I'm not going back to the Dark Ages. It's all good!
I have 44t * 11-28t on a 20" wheel bike (Cannondale Hooligan) and works great! Just right for riding in a city and nearby.
I've been riding with a kind-of 1x-setup for years on my Scott Waimea Pro. Simply removed my front derailleur, moved my 53T to the inside of the five arms from the crank and that's it. Got a cable and a shifter to spare, and the derailleur, of course. Fewer parts, less weight. No extraordinary wear on my chain or the chainring, or the sprockets. Now all I have is 8 gears left (12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21) and since I only have to encounter hills but no mountains (Denmark) it's more than sufficient. I could go up to 28 teeth without changing my rear derailleur, but I don't have to. Works absolutely perfect for me! Cost: zero bucks.
I wonder if everyone complaining about big cassette gaps has actually tried 1x... I love mine. Same range of gears as when I ran a compact chainset, lighter, simpler, less to think about, frame looks cleaner, better chain security, better chain line most of the time, cheaper to replace when it wears out. Even the larger gaps between gears are a plus for me. Fewer shifts, less wear. Don't mind varying my cadence a bit.
I really don't think they have, they also show their lack of overall cycling experience every time they make that comment. If they can't handle the jumps in 1x11 how on earth did they survive when we only had 5 to 7 gears back there?
I think a lot of them haven't tried a properly engineered 1x system. I personally find having to shift 3-4 rear gears in the opposite direction when I change the front ring on a 2x to be far more jarring to my cadence than the linear shift of a good 1x system.
I ride in a lumpy area of Sydney and get sick of jumping on the front derailer and inevitably being wrongly positioned on the back. The thought of sequential gearing appeals massively. What made you try it?
Going to 1x on my MTB has been fantastic especially so easy to swap out a chainring so fast now depending on the ride. CX has gone that way its just a matter of time for road pros. No more front mech to jam or fail less weigh and moving parts in the shifter too not to mention playing around with Q factor with only one chainring. Just need more players making cassettes out of lighter alloys and as affordable as ultegra etc and the move will be quick with a need to spend much to transition. Risk of drop chains and mech failure is one less thing to think about and less to work on.
Better chain line?
I'd always have a 2X for my main road bike; however, for my MTB and CX/Gravel/Winter bike, 1X is the way to go.
1X are here to stay! I just bought a Specialized Awol comp and I really like the simplicity. I plan on using it for touring. Traditionalist will surely turn up their noses, but some riders need to move on. It’s not a coincidence that 1x has emerged from mountain and off road applications. Older riders like me can extend their yrs of riding enjoyment by embracing lower gearing and simpler mechs. My days of trying to race youngns are done, but adapting off road tech to road bikes will enable older riders to continue enjoying the sport without retrofitting 3x. Besides, 1x looks way better and cleaner than the alternatives!
5 years later and this comment is aging like moldy bread. Many people are finding out 1x is going backward for bicycles. the bike industry managed to figure out how to increase the cost of cassettes and chains while increasing the wear of them simultaneously, it was a brilliant move of marketing...
A lot of the guys at my bike shop have a bike with a 1 x setup and really love it. I', considering doing it to my crossrip.
I have a 3x and just use the front derailer to make some quick jumps down when I'm climbing.
I'm not even a serious cyclist. I'm just a regular mechanic who rides in whatever I'm wearing at the time and I felt it was time to build myself a bike. First thing I did with regards to gears was look up SRAM because I hear such good things about their gears, and I came across the 1xX drivetrains when I saw the SRAM Eagle system. I stopped right there. Didn't even consider alternatives. Said to myself 'that's what I'm going to choose'. Why?
Simplicity. Does the job. It performs just as well as a traditional front/rear gear setup but it's way easier to maintain - 1 less cable and mech to go wrong. Also keeps the handlebars looking cleaner since you only have the one shifter lever. I'm running 10-50t which covers all bases.
It just goes to show, we don't need front dérailleurs anymore. We needed them in the past because we couldn't fit so many sprockets onto a cassette so it wasn't possible to get decent ratios. Well now it is. Well front dérailleur, you're not needed anymore. I won't miss you. You were often a pain to set up and maintain, and just another set of cables to replace.
Do yourself a favour and ditch the front gears. Their days are over.
What are the details of your bike? So you have the Eagle cassette but is the rest of it mtn or is it a hybrid with a flat bar and the required 12 speed eagle shifters?
I have several bikes with compact 50/34 and 11-32 or 11-28 cassettes. My latest bike has a 1x (44) and a 10-42 cassette. I calculated all the gear ratios I had (from 50x11 - 9.64 down to 34x32 - 2.25 and 44x10 - 9.33 down to 44x42 - 2.22). The only place the 1x really loses out is in the faster gears - 50x11 isn't much different to 44x10, but on the 1x the next gear is 44x12 (7.78), which is close to 50x14 (7.57), so misses out the 50x12 and 50x13. I do notice this on the road when bombing along (i.e. the missing 2 gears at 25+mph), but not in "normal" riding. The 34x large cog options are all pretty similar to the 44, so when in serious climbing mode (10% plus gradients), there is no lack of gears. So my conclusion would be a normal to slow rider would have no problems with running a 1x, but a fast rider might need to compromise on climbing gears if they don't want to lose fast speed gears. At least if comparing a compact to a 44 tooth 1x.
Previously lived in a very flat area. Used straight block rear cogs. Small difference in effort between gears. Now in a more hilly area. Bigger difference between large cogs. Sometimes more difficult to find the "right" gear with the larger cog spacing. Think the 1x will have the same inefficient gear choice with the wider cog spacing.
So, instead of one click with the front derailleur you need to swap your cassette and possibly the chainring when you want to ride mountains instead of flats or vice versa. And you have larger gaps between gears. Seems extremely practical for everyday riding.
I wonder if the car industry will get inspiration from this: "This radical new innovation will allow you to drive around the town with very slight (partially imaginary) improvements. And then if you want to drive around the countryside you just have to swap the engine..."
I’ve been running a 1x on the road for the last year and love it. I do think that is roadies have been very spoilt with 1 tooth jumps in sprockets and it’s made us very lazy with our cadence. Riders don’t have the versatility in their rev range anymore and thus think that if they are 5rpm over their normal cadence that they’re “revving out”. It wasn’t that long ago that a 2 or 3 tooth jump was normal. That said, I’m very interested in the 3T 9-32 cassette that has ratios 9-10-11-12-13-15-17-20-24-28-32.
I built a 1x10 using shimano deore and was hooked for life, I also run a 1x8 Claris and it works perfect and both are a shit load cheaper than SRAM . The gaps aren't an issue in the real world and cassettes are available 11/40 even in 8 and 9 speed so you don't need a big budget to start
I'm a MTBiker and I once used a 3x setup with a chainring of 24-32-44 and a cassette of 13-36. I switched to a 1x, with a 36T chainring and 11-46 cogs. 1x setups are way more lighter, needs less maintenance, less-complicated to tune, and for me it looks nice. Since I'm a sort of climber, the 46T cog helped me a lot, and my climbing performance pretty much increased by approximately 5% or so, however, my top speed reduced too by a whole 5%. The negative sides of a 1x setup is the range, unlike a 2x or 3x setup which can provide a more smooth transition of power and a gentler power curve. 1x setup may also sometimes shift rough, since it has a larger difference on tooth count from cog to cog.
My touring/gravel/bikepacking rig is currently running a 42 narrow/wide up front and 10-42 in rear with Ultegra RX. Wolf Tooth makes a replacement derailleur mount for the RX which positions it far enough back to use those gears, shifts precisely enough for me and gives a great range for climbing the steepest terrain I'm comfortable on with a bike loaded with gear. Pretty cool tech these days!
Also worth checking out the Wolf Tooth tanpan component which allows you to run a MTB rear derailleur with integrated road shifters. The level of innovation/hacking is incredible.
I have 3x7 on my everyday bike, and I honestly only use the top of the three sprockets, even when climbing overpass spiral ramps while saddled. Thinking of adding a brake cable splitter and completely removing the left hand controls.
Given that I sometimes find the jumps on my 11-32 to be too much, and they really aren't that big, I can't see this being practical for racing. I actually find gearing quite awkward on steep climbs. I like to spin at a higher cadence (say 100 rpm on a climb), however, for training, if I want to do small increments to my power (say 10w), it's actually quite hard to do. It seems that if I want to sustain the same cadence, the jumps in power required to spin a harder gear can be around 20w+, which is significant for a long climb (I often find myself in a situation where i'm not quite at my limit, but equally, wouldn't have enough strength to push one gear harder). I imagine with one of those meaty cassettes, the large jumps are just going to make it hard for riders to find an ideal cadence at the power they want to sustain on a given climb.
Just vary cadence slightly, simple, its what cycling is all about.
Learn to adapt to other cadences, get out of your saddle.
What do you do when you have a climb where you can't spin with 100 rpm even with the 32 tooth sprocket?
True, though I don't have any long and steep climbs near me which necessitate grinding for longer periods of time. I do mix in standing up to balance the load, but I just mean more in general, having to do frequent cadence shifts, or going off your "optimal" will still have a negative impact. Like, It's not like its impossible for me to grind or anything, I am just more efficient at a higher RPM, and when you are counting seconds in a pro race, wasting efficiency deviating from your ideal cadence by larger amounts can't be good
MishMash Ditch the derailleur gears and get a CVT.
Ok that is different from me. I can do intervals at 90rpm or 110rpm. Both work quite similiar for me...
1x rocks! I rode 42/52 traditional setup for two decades. I then ride compact (improvement) for a few years before behind hot by a car, destroying my frame, and breaking two vertebrae. I now ride Force 1x and I AM NEVER GOING BACK TO A FRONT DERAILLEUR... EVER!!!
Lol... The comments on this video are enlightening. I thought fanboys were a problem for video games, thought cycling might have a more mature and reasoned crowd. How wrong I was...
Sadly, cycling and the bicycle industry are largely fashion led nowadays. Things will soon change.
BMC Racemachine #1: SRAM 11-32 11 speed cassette, plus single Rotor Q-ring 52t
BMC Racemachine #2: Shimano 13t cog, plus SRAM 52t chainring, and 42t 3rd party ring, Paul Components dual jockey wheel tensioner.
Nothing super special, but I don't race. The tensioner needs a little adjustment at the moment.
Cyclocross commuter here. I had 50-34 and 11-28 and hated it for flatter, moderate riding - 34 was too small and 50 too big. Switched to 36x46 and 11-28, which was much better, but still dealing with front mech issues as I would occasionally bend the thing in one way or another and endlessly fiddle with it. Now I have a 1x - 42 up front and 11-32 in the back. Love it for commuting. I'm typically right in the middle, and have far less to worry about. It's not for everyone but it's definitely best for me.
Use an Eagle 12x cassette. 10-50 will make you ride up straight walls.
When pros start winning on 1x, I’ll start listening. So far unproven. Also, a pro has the aerobic capacity with EPO, transfusions, or whatever they’re doing now to spin higher gears like Lance did. If I go this way the cost for the clenbuterol will offset any savings of 1x.
Basic arithmetic still proves for any possible rear cogset, 1 chainring cannot possibly match 2 (or 3 on good old MTB). The giant pie plate rear cogs necessary to reach low lows, and keep an adequate high range still fail to match a simpler, smaller range with the front gears placing the entire set of rear cogs into a higher or lower zone. Period. Finally, road riders especially are finally able to fine tune cadence with 2x11, versus the old days of 2x5; 1x even 12 is still worse than 2x6, as the extra size range rear cogs bend the chain in a sideways plane which is not occurring with smaller rear cogs.
Time trial bikes, ridden by pros, may generally find a 1x setup perfectly adequate; pop in a steep pitch, and I suspect not so much. Flat races perhaps, where pros likely need only three gears in an entire day; but if you want versatility, and realistic ability to limp home after fifty miles too many, I guarantee you will be cursing any configuration which fails to acknowledge ordinary limitations.
SRAM not coincidentally, is largely noticeably absent in pro teams, I suspect after the shifting debacles that failed Andy Schleck back when. The fact that SRAM is the brand most to blame for these unwarranted, undesired, unnecessary, and suspicious "revolutions" speaks volumes about how marketing hype runs the industry, and how gullible too many younger riders are, without having watched the evolution of the machine over fifty years actually pedalling one. The sad fact that any pro team is so desperate for sponsor money that they are willing to ride inferior gear harks all the way back to the 7 Eleven era, when they had to beg for proper tires to be competitive, and ditched their sponsor's product. Just because any pro rides anything, does not mean that is a better, or even adequate choice - it's what they get paid to ride.
Yes. 1x is a good setup, but not as flexible as a 2x. My daily commuter is a 3x. I guess there is market for everything. I agree with you particularly on the part where you say the pros are paid to ride specific components. It is a big mess whenever they choose to ride another brand.
I still ride a triple. 3x11 Campy Athena! I love close ratio 12-25 with that 18t cog between 17 and 19!
The only flaw in this groupset is it has 94mm BCD for the inner chainring and comes with 30t. You can possibly squeeze a 29t but that's it. I still think about modding it or getting some older 10s triple with 74bcd to allow me a 24t granny.
30x25 is nearly the same as 34x28, which in a few places around here just isn't enough! The local murder hill hits 25% in a couple spots. It averages 11% but ondulates, often goes beyond 20%. So for that I ride the 12-29 cassette and I still wish I had much lower gears! There's now a 12-32 Centaur cassette that I might try, but then I loose that all important 16t cog, and I already miss the 18t.
So a 24t or even 23t inner ring (74bcd) would have solved this issue, but Campy missed the point, and it's probably the reason this 3x11 Athena didn't take off and only lasted from 2013 to 2015. So many cycletourists could have loved it. And a few geeks like me who love close ratio cassettes and also enjoy climbing walls! But it's still better than 50/34! And I can live with just two cassette sizes!
so to acheive the same spread of gears as a 2 by set up you carry 4 cassettes , 2 rear derailiers and the tools required in a back pack to change the parts out simples
Your Custom GCN bike is SWEET!
My choice for one bike to rule them all is Genesis Croix de fer with Sram Rival 1x granny gears edition (42/10-42) and hydraulic discs. Sold as Croix de fer Decade. It is perfect and neat looking set for daily use in any weather or for camping adventures. Not a snappy or fast by any means, but lovable and reliable workhorse as only bike to possess. Of course, for someone more fit and for snappier frame, different gear ratio would be required. So, I love my experiences with 1x and suggest it for anyone, not pro, at least.
interesting video. personally like most roadies I will always have 2x but It was interesting to see how a pro might use a 1x
I guess we now know how successful this 1x chain ring turned out for Aqua Blue. Team is now no more.
1x is the stupidest thing in bike industry lately. It has no real advantages and is full of disadvantages. I'm buffled how few people realise that.
Kay Voyager wouldn’t say the bike industry caus its great for enduro bikes. I was actually wondering if this exist for roadbikes since i bought one lately. (So I can’t realy speak for roadbikes)
@@Kayvoyager youre just too weak :)
@@piotr477 if bike is used in mild conditions then 1x is OK but if more extreme conditions apear than 2x or even 3x offers much more flexibility. Try it and you'll see. I know it's trendy and more simple and looks good but from efficiency point of view 1x it's not very good. Anyway if you like it then it's good enough but more efficient options are 2x or 3x.
Kay Voyager I agree 1x looks good but I still think 3x and 2x are better for more extreme conditions.
I use it for CX racing and it is very good for that. no chain slap, no chain rolling of in the front, and very important for a private racer no mud stacking up on the front derailleur (less bike swaps).
As ever an incredibly clear and educative tech video, love it! Especially since I'm on the lookout for a new road bike and 1x is definitely on the table! Keep at it guys! 👍
You make an excellent argument for these, Si, and I can see why they are increasing in popularity. And I am not stuck in the past but for me, a snappy commuter, I still enjoy using a triple and having all those gears at the twist of a grip. And I am constantly shifting and getting in and out of the saddle as I ride my '90s GT mountain bike on the road.
I have been thinking about a 1x for a few years now. I live in South Texas in the RGV wear it is pan flat for over 100 miles in all directions but is windy. Most of my riding is pack riding with my fast friends and I hang out in the back a lot. For this kind of riding I thing a 50 with a 28-12 would work. And one thing that no one has said is that it looks COOL
yeah. If I was somewhere that flat, I would go even tighter on the cassette. If you can gear it so that you're crusing in the 16-18t range with single tooth jumps it's super nice having shifts that feel like half of a normal gear to tweak your cadence by a few rpm.
I actually enjoyed listening about gear ratios. It's hard to find people willing to discuss gears these days. All the gear and no idea 💡 Thanks a lot 🙏 🤗 🙏
I think I would need to feel the gear changes. I just got my first road bike that is 2x11 with 11-28 cogs and the shifts are so close together you barely feel it. Disclaimer is I'm new to road and long distance cycling so I felt the difference for sure. After about 3 weeks of riding that setup I took my mountain bike out with the SRAM NX 1x11 with 11-42 cogs setup and I could definitely feel the change/jump in gears when I would shift. It felt like I needed a gear in between each shift.
The 11-42 is a bigger gear range than the one he's talking about for general use, so I'd definitely be interested in riding something with 11-36 where it's closer together. I'd also be super interested when SRAM and Shimano come out with 12 speed road setups and also 13 speed setups since those have started to be developed as well by other companies.
I realize that I am late to party. I built my first 10 speed (2x5) in 1980 and then completed a 96 mile ride. Fast forward to 2012. I decided to participate in a century ride on a 1990 road bike. I was familiar with gear ratio overlap in 2x so I decided to convert my road bike to 1x. The 100 mile included some hills. I stuck with the original crankset with 52/42 chainrings. I removed the 42 ring and front derailleur and used a 11-36 10 speed cassette. The rear derailleur was from a mountain bike. It wasn't flawless but I was satisfied. I am glad to see the progress to date on 1x systems.
I still ride a triple. 3x11 Campy Athena! I love close ratio 12-25 with that 18t cog between 17 and 19!
The only flaw in this groupset is it has 94mm BCD for the inner chainring and comes with 30t small ring. You can possibly squeeze a 29t but that's it. I still think about modding it or getting some older 10s triple with 74bcd to allow me a 24t granny.
30x25 is nearly the same as 34x28, which in a few places around here just isn't enough! The local murder hill hits 25% in a couple spots. It averages 11% but ondulates, often goes beyond 20%. So for that I ride the 12-29 cassette and I still wish I had much lower gears in a few spots! There's now a 12-32 Centaur cassette that I might try, but then I loose that all important 16t cog, and I already miss the 18t when riding 12-29.
So a 24t or even 23t inner ring (74bcd) would have solved this issue, but Campy missed the point, and it's probably the reason this 3x11 Athena didn't take off and only lasted from 2013 to 2015. So many cycletourists could have loved it. And a few geeks like me who love close ratio cassettes and also enjoy climbing walls! But it's still better than 50/34, and I can live with just two cassette sizes!
I have a gravel (or drop bar mtb? 2.35" tires...) that has a 3x10 with 12-36 cassette, so that's lots of gaps everywhere except 12-13. I think 11t is useless and just wear fast. Well, I can live with those jumps in gearing, this is a training/touring bike, and I do need that 580% range because I do hit very steep dirt climbs, but also do fast road riding with it. All the range get's used. I considered a 12-27 cassette on that bike before building, but first built with 12-36 because I already had the cassette, only to realize I needed really low gears on some occasions. One would need a 14s cassette with ridiculously wide range to match that. And I still wish I had some extra cogs in between.
With all that said, I'm considering getting some 1x stuff. One use is a TT bike that won't see any serious hill. Another reason is I really wan't to experiment with really short cranks (115 to 135mm) and oval chainrings (can't go oval on triple). I could go oval with normal length cranks, but with short cranks you should spin faster anyway, this means smaller 38t chainring, and riding double 38/34 is pointless.
I also have a road frame (well, the front triangle of a crashed Columbus Life frame waiting to have the rear triangle rebuilt) at hand that I'm considering building 1x disc brakes, because I can train year round without fear of trashing good rims, and also I can ride some wide and deep aero wheels such as LightBycicle WR56, so it's great for crappy roads and cobbles, and I do go to many races with terrible roads and also cobbles, and no fear of delaminating carbon rims... And there 1x without chainslap can be quite nice.
Bikes end up taking too much of my mental energy, oh god!!!
Been racing cross on 1x without clutch deraileur... used campag for 2 seasons and now etap... never has an issue.... SRAM marketing at work here!
My Grifter had a single chain ring. I loved it.
But that only had 3 sturmy archer gears.
earthstick And what gears they were.
I remember the grifter having 3 gears controlled by a twist grip on the handlebars. Occasionally it would slip sometimes causing me to go flying off the bike because there was no longer any resistance on the pedal stroke. Dangerous as hell but I loved my grifter. A mate of mine bashed his head against a brick wall when it happened on his bike and had to be taken to hospital for a few stitches.
Michael McDermott
So did my Raleigh Striker in silver, I crashed it once and bent the front mudguard lol😆
My cross / winter bike has got a 1x with a 44 chainring and 10-42 at the back. It's brilliant for club runs and has pretty much the same range as my 50/34, 11-32 on my other bike.
Happy with double on road and 1x on gravel. I run 40/11-36 ten speed with sram apex shifter, s500 brake lever and MTB GX 2.1 rear derailleur. Smooth!
No one has mentioned that when you’re actually riding (and not talking about it) 1x is just a lot of fun to ride. Aside from all the technical talk about gear range and jumps, it’s just a simple and intuitive interface (for me) & hence more fun.
I love my 1x drivetrain, on my cyclocross bike. I use a 46 chainring white a 12-36 cassette.
I have a SRAM eTap Red WiFli Hydraulic road group which was on my dream road bike but it was upsetting because it didn't shift well no matter how much I tried to dial it in. The front chain drops were annoying a Hell. I moved the group to my cyclocross bike, took the front derailleur out of the picture and installed a single narrow wide 40T chainring with a 34T cassette and glory days again. I now have electronic shifting on my cyclocross bike which the left lever moves the shifts up the cassette and the right lever moves the chain down. Simple and perfect.
I converted my 98 Rockhopper to a 1x9 w/ 11-21 cassette and 38t chainring, to ride on flat roads. Might need a 40t or 42t though.
I was a bit cynical about 1x as well before until I actually got a Sram Force 1 groupset. This was after plotting everything in an excel spreadsheet with all the ratios, jumps between gears etc. My biggest concern was the jumps in gears being too big. Some of the jumps are a bit big on the 10-42 cassette (17%). This won’t suit everyone however it really comes down to personal preference.
However one of the advantages of 1x is the simpler and better quality shifting. No more double shifting, and no front derailleur which can’t shift as well or as quickly as a rear derailleur can under heavy loads like steep inclines.
bikecalc.com/ It's so much faster than doing it yourself.
I also like yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php for checking reach/stack adjustments before buying parts.
You shouldn't shift a front derailleur "under heavy loads", or a rear one for that matter. It only takes a fraction of a second to ease off the pressure to allow it to shift virtually load-free.
So that argument doesn't class as an advantage of 1x over front derailleurs
A few years back I did a Google spreadsheet of the various clusters and chainrings for a 1x on my mountain bike. All I had to do is look at the graphics for the answers. I'm still waiting until SRAM does this with a wireless group. I'll wait forever if I have to.
I have a 1x on my commuting bike. It makes my bike very light, feels like a drag racing bike, but I'm missing some top speed. Luckily in the city top speed doesn't matter much.
I'm an old fart (72) recreational rider. I now adore 1x. I have a Black Mountain steel bike I'll call an allroad and it has a 1x, 38t with 11-40 10 speed and a carbon Volagi bike I call "forever" with 1x, 42t with 11-40 11 speed. Wolf Tooth makes wide/narrow 'rings down to 34t and 11-42 is an option for either so I don't think I'll ever consider 2x again.
Big respect! Most pepole at that age would ride e-bikes not mountain bikes! Keep it up!
Si, you never fail to amuse me with your sense of humor. I love my 1x on my MTB, maybe one day i'll get a road bike with it too? If my wife will let me get another bike that is.
Obviously we have to take into account the terrain we ride on. I ride an old seven speed that I’ve made into a 1x & I love it. I live in Florida & can handle any hill with the cassette I’ve built (12,13,14,15,17,21,24) with no major snap & minimal cross chainning. So if anyone lives on mostly flat terrain, 1x is a great idea & a seven speed is perfect & a little less weight & complication. However, if I ever move back to the mountains I used to live in, I’m going back to 2x & a 10speed cassette!
love 1X on my mtb where the gear jumps work fine with mixed terrain. On my road bike I'm not so sure...
😍😍😍
(I'm still riding a 3x 😭)
Same.
Me too, and I'll stick with it as I will never run out of gears on descents.
3x is much better and thats what I grew up knowing. This new style I think is bullshit, a lack of gears is not me at all and u see people are so sheepish, and just follow trends, this x1 setup is just a stupid trend.
@@rickyman6651 Just as 3 x was 20 years ago; the difference is that you have grown up being used to it. Yet now the majority of sets are 2 x and the top gear isn't any shorter - and it's easy to get the same top ratio on a 1 x. There are plenty of arguments why 1 x may not be optimal, but "not running out of gears on descents" is not one.
A "lack of gears" isn't a particularly good one either - I calculated the gear ratios of my 3 x 9 MTB gear train: there are actually only 15 ratios that are more than 5% apart from each other, even though the total range goes from 4:1 (44/11) to 0.65:1 (22/34) - and yet there are some pretty big jumps in there (20%). A 3 x whatever road train will be worse in terms of overlap, since the total range is going to be narrower.
This is not meant to be a defense of 1 x - I'm just pointing out that your arguments against it don't particularly hold.
me too, but I love the simplicity, I ride 99% of the time in my big ring and I live in the hill country of TX. I always find myself skipping through 2 or three before I am am not spinning out. I wonder if now that it has been a couple of years that they use the eagle or that 10/36 cassette?
Ive got 3x, in 28 inch trekking bike, with 27.5 wheels & 8 speed 23-11 road casette. For a while I had mullet with 622 wheel on front but it felt too slugish.
10x1 would seem to make more sense than a 1x10, for mountain bikes. No more bent derailleurs
I converted my 3x Hybrid bike to a 1x and all I can say is, I'll never go back to 3x again.
I've always had a 1x chainring on my fixie :D
In all honesty tho, I'd welcome this just cz it would make it much easier to clean the gunk between the chain ring and the FD that is always so hard to.
Prices of 1X drivetrains are still at a premium tho [even more so considering you're getting less parts] so I"d take a rain-check for now.
Been doing 1x on my flatbar for years now… still using Di2 in the rear just for good measure. Got a Force1 42 front and Ultegra 12-25 in the back… seems well for city/street use.
I would definitely buy a 1x especially if it was available as standard. It would also make changing gear easier to understand for new riders who sometimes are uncomfortable with shifting.
For the winter bike this looks ideal.
As someone who rides both geared and single speed bikes this looks like the best of both worlds.
In fact i reckon unless you are a total pro with quads of oak, a 48t with an 11-36 is plenty. My current bike has a 52t and i hardly spend any time in top, mostly on long descents. I spend most of the time in the middle of the cassette.
My issue is chain line. Do you need to use a specific 1x crankset or can you get away with 2x11 with just one chainring. If so do use the inner or outer chainring mounting position?
I still love my Ultegra triple, a 52/39 with the 30 chainring for use in the Alps ! ( 10 speed 11-28 at the back) Its not fashionable, but it has a huge range, no real weight penalty (the 30 tooth ring weights nothing,) and I only swap cassettes when they are worn out ! Chris in St. Albans (- unless climbing in the Pennines or the Alps)
I changed out my 39 inner ring for a 36 so I have a 53/36 with an 11-28 on the back, on a shimano ultegra 6800. I have not had any problems with this ratio. I've been using it 18 months. I just found the 39 a bit too hard on the knees. It's the best of both worlds a 53 for the flat and a 36 for the handlebar munching.
I’ve been running 1x for the past 3 years. On my previous road bike I built it with a 48t cr and a 11-34 cassette, unfortunately I cracked that bike so my new bike is setup with a 50t cr and 11-28 cassette, I’m a lot fitter than I was, road bike only really gets used for commuting, but do do some training rides on it and I think 1x is great for that!
I use a 1x setup on my MTB and I thinks its great BUT unless I can get a big rear cassette that is very very light and as affordable as the big brand cassettes then its 2x for my road bike for now. Some bespoke manufacturers are making very nice and very light alloy and titanium cassettes out of Taiwan but they are still for the fat wallet brigade. Its definitely the way its all going and ultimately we're going to be seeing exotic lightweight planetary hub gearboxes on race bikes before long. The Shimano di2 touring 11 spd hub with the belt drive is very impressive and if they can make that half the weight and an 11-36 equivalent then i'm going there asap. No more gunked up chains would be heaven
The fixie brigade will be out bragging.
I won plenty of races on my 1x Allez Sprint this year. 50, 11/32, XTR Di2. Kick ass setup, zero issues, not sure I could go back. Only con is all the downshifts at stops lights while city riding.
1x is awesome for the mountain bike world, it's sooo much better in nearly all situations. For road I'm a little skeptical, though I do love the convenience of it on my Commuter/rigid/full sus bike.
currently running a 1x8 with a 50t at the front. pretty happy with it!
While bike-travelling my front derailleur malfunctioned and I was was forced to do with only the smaller chainring (34T). I had something like 12-28 in the back. I then noticed that I really don't need the bigger (50T) chainring that much; I hardly need to pedal in speeds over 30km/h. So now I am considering 1xdrivetrain as permanent solution. Maybe with 11-32 in the back and 34T (or a little bit bigger) in the front.
love the 3T setup... just need something like that down at a price us normal people can buy! I converted my mountain bike to 1x 15 years ago and machined off all the bits I no longer needed
- ahead of the curve ;)
Good idea for a winter bike, with a sensible rear cassette as opposed to the "granny" dustbin lids adorning the rear wheel. Other than that, I will stick with my front deralleur thanks.
I switched to 1x9 drivetrain on my commuter and I quickly found that steps between gears is a real problem, and there is no cassette on the market with gearing that would suit me. It could be solved if we were free to buy any cogs we like and build our own cassettes. But unfortunately we are stuck with whatever manufacturers think we need (not what we really need). I don't see why you would need a derailleur with clutch on road bike though. Ran over 1000km on regular derailleur with no problems...
Inevitabke to have the 12 sprocket.
One and a half yeat later: RotoR: we proudly present the 13 speed sprocket
:)
My gravel bike use SRAM GX with 42/11-46 setup.. most people complain its sometimes look weird when the cassette are bigger than the chain ring for a road bike frame.but i love to see the setup,its look clean and simple.but sometimes,i got a problem to have optimum cadence because of the limitation gear ratios.but its ok..
Road eagle would be so clean... 50 tooth front, 10-50 back. 1 to 1 ratio for climbing, just like a 34/53 and a 11-34
Wtf? The need for 50-11 means you are an insanely strong rider and 50-50 means you can't do shit...
11-36 is just perfect for me with nice little steps between the gears. Why do you want such wide ranged cassette?
Max Mustermann 50-50 any different from 34-34? It's 1 to 1, no matter how you gear it. And if you live in a hilly area, you can hit 50-10 every ride no problem (on the downs)
Generally speaking if you need a 1:1 for the way up you'll also have a use for 5:1 on the way back down.
cuz it a freaking eagle and its awsome
Why do you need to paddle if it is going down? Only Frome does that. I means honestly, you don't need to shave off the last seconds if you are not competing in a race...
If you need a 1:1 gear ratio, then you will need 50:50 but that is by far the minority.
Another advantage - night riding, if you can't see the gear indicators. With only one shifter, you don't have to try and figure out which is the most appropriate shifter to use.
Those 3T frames look so cool
I'm a bit old school and tend to prefer tight gear ratios (I use mostly 11-23 cassettes). However, front derailleurs really suck and not having to deal with one of these is on its own a good reason to swich to 1x drivetrain