How To Use Fujifilm's Highlight and Shadow Tone Controls
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ย. 2024
- A quick lesson on how to use the Highlight and Shadow Tone controls that are found on the Fujifilm X Series cameras. These easy adjustments can prove to be very useful tools for opening up or darkening shadow detail, reducing highlights and controlling the overall contrast in your images when shooting JPEGs.
I normally will skip all the talking parts from a tutorial video but with your video sir, i cant, because everything you said literally make me much more confident with my camera.thanks a bunch sir.
What a great testimonial! Thank you very much for your feedback, I'm glad that you found this lesson to be so helpful and inspiring. And that's exactly what I'm trying to do with my videos: inspire photographers to be more confident with their camera. What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
@@DanBaileyPhoto you are most welcomed sir. Im just a beginner with X100F.. Love taking landscape picture, animals, and my lovely family.
Cool. Everyone is a beginner at some point, but that doesn't mean you don't love photography any less than the rest of us. :)
I tried these adjustments this weekend on a dark, wooden covered bridge backlit by bright sunlight through the trees. I got excellent results. Thank you for sharing this useful information. Your videos are showing me how to slow down and take the time to get the results I want. Thank you!
Thank you so much for your comment. I’m glad you’re enjoying my videos. And it’s great to hear that you’re putting these tips and lessons to practical use. That sounds like an excellent opportunity to make use of these techniques. 👍 Which Fuji do you use, and what do you typically like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto
I just purchased your X-Series ebook! Its great! Thank you. I may be upgrading next year to an X series interchangable lens model and I'm happy that your book covers them all.
It’s nice to see you Dan!
Hi Ilya!! Hope you're doing well. What have you been shooting lately?
Interesting video. I have been keeping my X-T2 and X-T20 at -1 for HT and -1 for shadow tones. I often shoot in harsh, bright sunlight as I live in Florida.
Baruch, thanks for the comment. -1 on both can be a good combo to open things up a bit when shooting in bright, high contrast light. 👍
Excellent presentation. I have been using -2 for highlights and shadows, which I find generally represents the scene accurately.
Thank you for your comment. The H/S Tone controls certainly are useful tools. What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
@@DanBaileyPhoto The XT-3. I generally photograph landscapes and portraits. I have the 14mm f2.8 lens so far.
Oh yea.. what a great combination. That 14mm f/2.8 is a fantastic lens. That was one of my first Fuji lenses, and it's still my favorite wide angle.
@@DanBaileyPhoto I agree!
I like to use the highlight and shadow tone controls in conjunction with RAW process in-camera conversion. It’s a handy tool to getting a visualization of what you are trying to get in a final image and also useful when sending photos to friends on social media. The advent of digital photography heralded the ability to see your picture now instead of waiting for days or even a week as it was with film. Fuji really hit it out of the park with this and the film simulations, in my view. It was a strong motivator for buying into the Fuji system.
Indeed! Camera technology has finally arrived to a place that we could only dream about back in the SLR film days. Thanks for the comment, Bruce. What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
Great video-- I appreciated seeing the "side by side" examples. I've been shooting JPEG at minus-1 highlight and shadow for a while now as my default setting. This video has prompted me to explore the settings more. Also, I have that very same Walz cap! Cheers!
Hi Brian, glad you liked this lesson. And yes, I love Walz caps! I think I have about 5 right now, but this one is my favorite of late. Hope you're doing well right now. Take care and be well! BTW, what do you like to photograph?
That is exactly how I have set them, -1 for both.
This video is very helpful. I knew of these controls and had played with them but I am now encouraged to really try using them. The before and after images really showed me the possibilities of getting it right in camera and avoiding extra work at the computer. Thanks Dan!
You're welcome! I'm glad you found this helpful, and I hope it inspires you to new levels of "in the moment" creativity with your Fuji. What do you like to shoot?
Thanks Dan, I'm a pro Nikon photographer (D850 and Z7) and I just bought an X Pro2 as my carry around camera and was having trouble getting to grips with the S tone H tone settings - this helped a LOT
(BTW on the Nikons I ALWAYS shoot RAW but now I'm getting to grips with using JPEGs straight out of camera)
Hey David, thanks for your comment. I used to be the same: ALWAYS shot RAW with my Nikons over the years, but when I moved to Fuji and saw just how good the JPEGs were right out of the camera, especially with the different film sims, I became a quick convert. What kinds of subjects do you like to shoot?
Mr. Bailey, I just discovered your channel by accident tonight and have been watching your excellent content for a few hours now. You have earned a new subscriber.
Thanks so much for your comment, I really appreciate your feedback!
Dan, great video. The real-world examples showed exactly how you can use these features. I sometimes feel I should be using raw but I hate post-processing. I tend to shoot jpeg 90% of the time. Learning more about how these features work will further my knowledge and keep my shooting jpeg. I look forward to the next video! Thank you!
Thanks for the comment, Mark. That's exactly why I think these are such useful tools. They allow you to shoot in JPEG with even more confidence and control, even if the light gets a little tricky. Between these settings and the different color palettes of the film simulations, you have a very wide range of choices for how you want to capture and show your subjects. What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
@@DanBaileyPhoto, I use the X-T3, I shoot wildlife, landscapes, concert, and family. I just bought my granddaughter an X-E3 for college graduation. She loves it. My blog is itsmytimephotography.com Thanks
@@markcasebeer8273 Cool. I'll check out your work!
Another great tutorial - I shoot RAW but will be trying the Highlight and Shadow controls now that you have explained the benefits so well.
Thanks Kathy. Yes, you can use these settings when you shoot RAW, but most software won't show the adjustments when it renders the RAW file when you open it up on your computer. However, Fuji's free software, FUJIFILM X RAW STUDIO will let you see and even adjust your H/S Tone settings on a RAW file and export with the changes.
@@DanBaileyPhoto Oh I will explore Fuji X Raw Studio. Thank You, Kathy
I love X-RAW Studio.
@@ncmotorcyclist So much to learn, I am a beginner so appreciate all the tips.Just bought my first real camera last year so I am getting more comfortable with the Fuji XT3.
@@ncmotorcyclist It's a pretty cool program and a very original, Fuji-specific alternative to other RAW conversion software. Of course, nothing says you can't use it in conjunction with other RAW converters.
fantastic video, you explained this perfectly
Thanks for your comment! Glad you found this helpful. What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I use an xt30, like to photograph everything really. I've recently been getting into low light and I was wondering if there was a way to shoot a sunset in jpeg without losing detail in the landscape
your video helped a lot
That's a tricky prospect, because the nature of the light in a sunset photo often leaves the landscape in shadow and bringing it up too much can either introduce noise, or it can reduce the overall drama of the image. The H/S tone controls can help with that, and a graduated neutral density filter can help too. If you're trying to bring up extreme shadow tone, your best option is to shoot in RAW and bring up the shadows in your processing software. Otherwise, you can keep the shadows dark and use them as compositional elements in the image to add more drama and contrast.
@@DanBaileyPhoto thanks for the reply, much appreciated
You're most welcome!
Thank you, Dan. I reset my Q menu this morning to take advantage of these features.
Awesome, Peter! Have fun playing around with those settings. And is this the same Peter Davies from my previous Alaska workshops?
@@DanBaileyPhoto, no, I am a new Peter Davies.
@@cymrocanuck Yes, I was wondering, because the other Peter Davies is a Sony shooter. 😄 What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
Just purchased your ebook, X Series Unlimited. In my opinion it is a must have for any Fujifilm camera user.
Thanks Chrys, I really appreciate the feedback! Glad you're enjoying it. Which Fuji model do you use and what do you like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto Hello there - well, when you replied to me I was shooting with an XT-1 that I bought when it was first released. But, I just received (about 5 days ago) a new XT-4. What an incredible camera! I was surprised at how physically different it was. I am enjoying your book along with my camera.
Chris Berardi How awesome! The X-T4 is a huge upgrade over the 1. It has so many more creative options built in, and with all the new features and the new menu system, you’ll be able to take advantage of my book even more!
Great tutorial video as expected when it's from Mr Bailey!
Hi Jesper, thanks so much for your feedback, glad you liked this! Hope you're faring well right now.
@Dan Bailey Hi Dan, I really liked the video.I would like to expand a little on the DR settings.
They work by underexposing the image to save the highlights. For example, DR200 underexposes by -1 Stop, DR400 underexposes by -2 stops in extreme cases where the image is very high contrast. For DR200 ISO has to be set at least ISO 400 and for DR400 ISO has to be at least ISO 800 .
What is actually happening is at the camera is still shooting at base ISO and then underexposing by the corresponding amount to save the highlights ( this is reflected in the histogram according to the DR setting ). When processing the JPEG the camera JPEG engine is compensating for the underexposed shadows by some very elegant processing to lift them back to the correct level.
In essence, the DR setting is a switch that tells the camera to underexpose by 200% ( 1 stop ) or by 400% (2 stops) thus increasing the usable dynamic range for JPEG output. There is very little or detectable degradation of the shadow information when using the DR settings as the Fujifilm cameras use sensors that are ISO Invariant and can accommodate a push or Shadow increase of up to 4 stops without penalty in regards to noise.
When using Auto settings for DR the camera will toggle between DR100 and DR200 Automatically if the ISO setting is high enough ( this can be manually set or by using Auto 800, Auto 1600 for example ). To use DR400 it has to be selected manually and a minimum ISO of 800 has be set for this to work.
Using the DR function does not use a tone curve to save the highlights. Using the H and S tone in camera in conjunction with the DR settings could help to create a more flexible tonality of the highlights and shadows in the Jpeg output.
Cheers,Ian.
Thanks for the detailed explanation, Ian. This is an excellent clarification about how the DR function works. Really appreciate you taking the time to outline this here. I agree, even though I often forget about DR and neglect this particular setting, DR can be a very useful tool, especially when combined with the H/S tone and other camera settings. 👍
@@DanBaileyPhoto Hi Dan, Thank you.
Just a quick tip that I find useful regarding the use of DR in the field.....
I have my XT-2 camera Live View Highlight Alert set as ON. This can be found in the Spanner menu - Disp Custom Settings ( 1/4).
Always use with the Pic Effect ON so you are seeing the result of your chosen film Simulation and also how the Histogram responds to it.
First, shoot in DR100. If the Highlight warning flashes then increase the DR setting to DR200. If the Highlight warning is still flashing increasing to DR400 usually stops the Highlight warning blinking except in extreme cases.
For quick access to the DR setting on the fly, I have a custom button set to that function.
Cheers, Ian.
@@IanKnight40 Another good tip, Ian. Using the Highlight Warning and setting DR to a Fn button sounds like a good way to make good use of this setting. Thanks again!
@@DanBaileyPhoto Thank you Dan.👍
Thanks for a great video, wish I saw it before I went out today as I has a very high contrast scene with a mainly dark stone old building against a light gray sky. This knowledge would have been really useful. Yes I'm a beginner!
Hey Des, thanks for your comment. Hopefully it will help you in the future. Were you able to wrangle the contrast on your shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto hi Dan, I backed off taking the shot as it just didn't look right on the LCD, I was using the XT200 with the kit lens. I'm going to head back to the location soon.
That's how you learn. And you'll be so much better prepared for next time when you revisit the scene.
Thank you! This is the first video I have seen on this. I learned something today. Great video
Thanks David. Glad it was helpful! Stay tuned for the next one, it will expand on this even further. What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
Dan Bailey I have an X-T30. I like to shoot travel, street and landscape but with the current situation and likely travel restrictions for the long term, I am trying my hand at imaginative images. For example, taking a different perspective in a simple garden to create something new
@@davidbrighten2572 This is a good time to practice shooting with new perspectives and creative techniques. Stay well, be safe and have fun with your Fuji!
Already at this time in Capture One and at least to some agree also in Lightroom Classic and ACR (latest updates) it is very well possible to accept the FujiFilm camera-profiles with these adjustments in the settings for Raw adjustments. That way it will be possible now already and presumably more so in the near future to use these presets from camera right back in the raw-settings for processing. It will be possible to fine-tune the camera-profiles in the computer to replicate these Jpeg-settings from the FujiFilm camera's. That means that even in Raw these files will no longer seem flat but will be the way they showed up in the electric viewer or on LCD.
Wouter, thanks for the comment. You're right, the latest versions of LR and C1 do have decent renditions of the film sim profiles, and that's certainly a good approach to use.
However, some photographers find that they embrace the challenge of nailing and shot in the moment and the enjoy the creative liberation that shooting in JPEG can offer. I'm one of those people.
In addition, some people simply prefer the activity of taking pictures over sitting at their computer editing photos. After all, not everyone likes spending time editing photos. The truth is that modern cameras give you very good results, even when shooting in JPEG, so why not take advantage of that. I do shoot RAW sometimes, and I do process occasionally, but most days, I would rather simplify and shoot JPEG. And I find that I'm extremely happy with the Fuji JPEGs, and that's really the key, isn't it? If you love your photos, then who cares if you shot it in RAW or JPEG?
I recognize that there are different types of shooters out there, and no way is "best." If you enjoy shooting RAW and processing, then that's great. However, if the approach of shooting like film and using the on-board camera tools to help you nail your shot in the moment appeals to you, then I'm here to let people know how to make the best use of the tools that are available to them on the Fujis.
Amazing sharing. Thanks alot Dan!. I mostly shoot Raw, even rarely setting up my camera with raw+jpeg. As Always believe i need to do a postpro in every photo I took from my XT4. Really enjoy your video!
Thanks for your comment, Eko. Glad you enjoyed this video. What do you like to photograph with your X-T4?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I shot nature landscape 80% of the time, shoot milky way sometimes. Your tip is amazing, thanks alot
@@EkoPurwanto Cool. Have tons of fun with your X-T4!
Awesome tip.. Love it
Thanks, glad you enjoyed this!! What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I moved from nikon to Fuji last month. I have an x-t4 with a 16-80 lens and feel liberated shooting JPEG’s with adjustments in camera prior to the shot instead on in post. Thanks for your service to the Fuji community. I’m a fan of your channel I shoot landscapes and portraits. Only as a hobby. Not commercially
Thanks so much for your feedback. And I'm glad to hear that you're enjoying the creative liberation that the excellent Fuji JPEGs offer. I see a lot of shooters who switch from Nikon and Canon and then just go straight to only shooting RAW with their Fujis. I think they're missing out, but sometimes it's a hard habit for people to break. That's one reason I do these videos, I want to show people what's possible.
@@DanBaileyPhoto Thanks for all your help. I have a question and possibly you may be able to help with. I have this camera, So I took a picture with my xt20 and when I view it on my screen , my picture is almost completely black. I noticed when I switched off the auto on my shutters this occurred I was just wondering if you may know the reason. Whenever I go back to Auto on my shutters it shoots fine again but whenever I switch the auto off. I get images so black and blur that you can only see a spec of light. Do you know what may be my problem?
This was fantastic! Very well presented, exactly what I wanted to know. Subbed!
Awesome, thanks for the comment! What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
Sorry it took me so long to reply! How cool that you asked....thanks. I'm coming to Fuji from an Oly omd em5-mkii; I've been a fuji lurker for a couple of years but the XS-10 enticed me to jump. I'm a tiny lady mostly photographing an events band, but I also love landscapes. My next challenge is night street photography. I live in a Texas metro area so there should be plenty to capture.
Very helpful video! Thank you!
Thanks Ellen. Glad you enjoyed this. What Fuji do you use and what do you like to shoot?
Fantastic tutorial!
Thank you, Kristi. 🙂 Glad you enjoyed this!
i like having the dual SD slots on the XT4. I just started playing with film sim bracketing and recording raw images to the other card slot (just in case). I agree tho - having the Fuji system is all about playing around with the film sims and tone controls!! I switched from sony mirrorless earlier this year when i got the XT4!
Spencer, thanks for the comment. Yes, between the film sims and the tone controls, you have a huge amount of creativity with the X Series cameras that can help you craft whatever style of imagery you wish. I'm sure you're having lots of fun with your X-T4, what kinds of subjects do you like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto landscape, portraits, and more! However, I need to get out more and be shooting more for sure. I have been getting board with my home base surroundings and finding hard to be excited. I should try and get into a routine in my general home base area tho just to keep busy. just found your channel last night for the first time I can think of, as I have been considering the 35mm f2. I like your content. did you just "start" the channel in the last year or so? I remember most of the content seems to be more recent. keep it going, man!! I own the 16mm 1.4 and need another prime for my XT4. ordered the Viltrox 23 1.4 and most likely will get the fuji 35 f2 (tempted to do the 1.4, but the f2 being newer and WR is tempting!!)
Spencer, I think we're all having trouble with the excitement about our massively reduced surroundings right now. It's important to stay creative, but sometimes that takes even more motivation.
Glad you found my channel. I've had it for a few years, but never really did much with it until last year, that's when I started doing these tutorials. Before that, most of my instruction was focused on my blog, which has been running for over 10 years. Adding the video lessons has been a fun new chapter, and I'm finding that my instructional style connects well with people. So yes, I'll definitely keep it going!
The 35 f/2 is a massively fun little lens, and it has faster AF than the older non WR 35mm f/1.4. And it's less expensive. I think you'll have a lot of fun with that one. It will play well with your 23. 👍
Thanks Dan. Of specific interest to me as like shooting jpegs- maybe not "real" photos to some, but don't do any post, apart from what limited free software allows.
Robert, there is something to be said for capturing your scene in real time an walking away with a finished, or mostly finished image that you love. 👍 Trust the camera, but more importantly, trust your own creativity.
Thank you for a great lesson😃
My pleasure! Glad you enjoyed it, Eden! What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
Excellent claritfications >> PPPPreciated
Thanks! Glad it was helpful for you!
Very helpful and explained eell. Never knew about this.
Hi Tapasya, thanks for your comment, I'm glad to be able to show you these useful features! What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I just bought it. I like it!
Awesome!! I hope it inspires you to new levels of confidence and creativity with the camera!
@@DanBaileyPhoto Last year I bought a Fuji X-t20 with XC 16-50 and xc50-230 for $950. It was a great deal. I started with a Canon FTb QL (QL stands for quick load). But that was many years ago. I also had a Canon AE-1.
I left my interest in photography stagnatr because life got in the way. But now I'm getting back to it.
I like to photograph nature and landscapes but want to try street photography. But that can be a bit crazy given the insane world we are in. I bought the Fujinon pancake lens for that purpose.
I just purchased an xc35 f2. So I am trying to build up my lens choices. I'm thinking of getting the Viltrox 23 mm f 1.4.
@@tapasyatyaga4041 Glad to gear that you've gotten back into it recently. Photography can be a very vital and nurturing activity to do right now, and I think it's a vital thing that we all do our best to stay creative during this strange and uncertain time.
Very good indeed. Thank you.
Thank, Chris. Glad you found this helpful! What Fuji do you use and what kinds of subjects do you like to photograph?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I use an X-T30 which I love but am still learning it. I used to do a lot of photography as a kid (film+darkroom stuff). Digital is of course so different. I like to photograph anything really - travel, portrait, landscape mainly. I had one question on your book, the new version of X-series Unlimited but I prefer hard copy rather than e-book. Is it available as hard copy instead of e-book? Am I able to print the book if I buy the e-version? Many thanks great videos - I particularly liked the series on exposure. Great work
Chris, thanks for your feedback on my videos. Yes- you are absolutely able to print the e-version of my Fuji book if you wish. There is a print version of the book, which you can find here: danbaileyphoto.com/blog/product/fujifilm-x-series-unlimited/ It's the same content, but the print version has not been updated with the latest features on the X-T30. Most of it is still totally relevant, there are just a few things the X-T30 has that are not in the print version. My ebook version is 100% current with the latest models and features. However, if you purchase the print version, I will gladly send you the e-version for free so that you have all of the current info.
@@DanBaileyPhoto hi Dan. Thank you. It would be easier and cheaper for me to buy via Amazon. Would you still be willing to send me the e version free as well? I can send you confirmation of order if you can give me an email address? Many thanks Chris
Yes, absolutely. You can use this link to get the book on Amazon: amzn.to/3bOzWnG
I wish I could see the changes in the image as I am editing in-camera. You work in the dark with no way to evaluate how the image is going to look like by the end of the editing. It's always a surprise.
Benjamin, you should be able to see the effects of you Highlight and Shadow Tone adjustments right in the viewfinder and the LCD screen. Of course, with some scenes and lighting conditions, you may have trouble gauging the full effects of your adjustments on the small screen.
@@DanBaileyPhotothats if you set it before hitting the shutter. Ben means processing after the fact.
So Dan
I shoot in harsh African sun even at 8am
Enjoy my cycling photography.
BUT
When a cycle comes by with a white shirt with different kinds on other color logos
My zebras go mad
I use H+4 and S-2
There are many mid tone, upper mid tone and low cantrast shits that show up well.
What would be a happy medium to expose all tones well😊
Using X-T5 and R ace sim.
Thankyou
Thanks for your comment. This sounds like a very challenging exposure situation, even for a high performance X-Trans sensor. Modern digital cameras are not perfect, and a white shirt in bright, high contrast sun can indeed be too much contrast. In this kind of situation, I think you would want to shoot RAW in order to preserve the most detail from the sensor. Hope that helps.
Thank you - very useful.
Thanks Geoff, glad you enjoined this. What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
Hi Dan,
We've spoken before, via email.
I have XE-1 converted to IR; XE-2 - and my favourite the XT-3. I've previously used an S3 Pro (until I dropped it) and a FinePix.
The 1 and 2 I find awkward to use because of the position of the viewfinder and I wear spectacles.
Wildlife and landscapes ( plus Solar - but that's a different ballgame )....
@@geoffc1862 Yes, I remember now. I found your emails in my inbox. And sorry to hear that you've had to cancel your upcoming trips. I think everyone has. Challenging times indeed. Take care and stay safe!
Thankyou 🙏🏼☺️
You’re welcome 😊 I'm glad you found this helpful. What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
Very useful, thankyou.
Thanks for the comment, Michael. What Fuji do you use and what kinds of subjects you like to shoot?
Dan Bailey hello Dan, I have a X-T2 and X-H1. I don’t have any one subject these days. I’m doing plant life and countryside. When I can get there again some street stuff in London.
@@bonynge5 Sounds good. Keep having fun with your Fujis and take care right now!
Great video ! I love to shoot hard shadow and negative space with my fujix100V, manual exposure. I shoot in RAW. Do these Highlight and Shadow Tone Controls are displayed in Capture One ? Or I have to shoot in JPEG ?
Thanks for your comment. Glad you're enjoying your X100V, that's such a great little camera! Unfortunately, the H/S Tone adjustment don't show up in the RAW files inside Capture One, but they do work in the Fujifilm X-RAW Studio software. th-cam.com/video/0AM6Jde0YnQ/w-d-xo.html What kinds of subjects do you like to shoot with your Fuji?
Dan, do you have a preference as to where you generally set the sharpening level when capturing a scene? And let me say, I agree with your philosophy of capturing the image on site via the film simulations.
Craig, I would say that most of the time, I just use the default sharpening setting. I rarely touch it, unless I’m going for a specific effect or look. For the majority of my shooting, I just let the camera do it’s thing and and I’m pretty much always happy.
Thanks Dan. Very helpful. I’m a bit confused with the tone controls relative to the dynamic range one. Eg. Won’t choosing a high dynamic range (400) militate against your choices
Hi Rich, thanks for your comment. Yes, it's a little confusing, and there's not much documentation that tells us exactly how those work in conjunction. The simple answer is that they can work together; you can use a high DR setting, AND also make a Shadow Tone adjustment, although from my experiments, DR adjustments are much more subtle than H/S Tone adjustments. I just did a quick test, and using DR400 vs DR100 made very slight changes to the overall tonality, and in fact, the most visible aspect was that it reduced the highlights. Then I added in a -2 Shadow Tone adjustment, and it made a much more apparent visual difference in how it opened up the shadows.
For this reason, I usually opt for leaving the camera set at DR Auto or 100% and making H/S Tone adjustments instead. That's not saying that the DR adjustments aren't useful in certain situations, but honestly, I usually forget about this setting and use H/S instead. Either way, you should experiment and see what works for you and your subject matter. Hope that helps.
Dan Bailey Thanks Dan. This makes sense.
Another great lesson, thank you. Do you have a video that includes detail regarding sharpness. How can we adjust or remove haze as we can in post editing? Thank you.
Thanks, John. I don't have a specific lesson on sharpness, but I mention it briefly in this video: th-cam.com/video/vJh-7HQ0ECw/w-d-xo.html
That said, the Sharpness control in the Fuji cameras doesn't do much to remove haze, it mostly adds contrast and increases edge sharpness. I don't know of a way to do any drastic haze reductions right inside the camera, you'd probably have to do that in post.
@@DanBaileyPhoto Thank you!
Dan, tks much my friend. Really enjoying these short "high impact" videos!! What a wonderful tool and I am excited to try it. Tks to Mr. Trump n some shuffling I dove into the XT-4. Does you book come in print via Nook like your other one? Like carrying it around when waiting for wife. Just don't know how you afford that high price model - was it Bill Fortney- in your videos? Pls let me know on the book. TKS
Thank Merle, glad you're finding these mini video lessons to be hepful. I'll keep doing them. And glad to hear that were able to get yourself an X-T4. How exciting! Regarding my X Series eBook, the Rocky Nook version hasn't been updated with the X-T4 info yet, but most of the other content in there still applies, since the X-T4 still has most of the settings that were originally found in the X-T2. And yes, that was Bill Fortney making a cameo in my video!
in my camera (xt4) this fonx is closed ,how can ı open ??thank you
On the X-T4, these two settings (Highlight and Shadow Tone) are found together inside the TONE CURVE menu option inside the IQ Menu. Hope that helps.
I didn't understand how to use my X100F until Mr Bailey opened my eyes with his book
Glad you found it helpful! What do you like to shoot with your X100?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I shoot nearly everything with it except birds in flight. Beach scenes, macro of flowers. people. sunsets, sunrises. Am getting interested in nighttime street scenes in B&W.
This guy uses x100f to create magic
www.flickr.com/photos/144660144@N05/with/49934764147/
I have a question: my x100f was sent back to Fuji because it got dust on the sensor. It also has a stuck door that goes up and down when switching from EVF to OVF.
Do you have an opinion on the dust proofing of the X100V? if my camera costs a lot to repair, I may decline to spend that money. I could purchase the V with the extra pieces to keep it weather sealed. I won't shoot in the rain, but I like to keep my fuji in a jacket pocket... and that apparently increased the chances of dust inside.
I read a few things online in message boards of people complaining that the V got dust inside even after all the weather sealing efforts. If that happened to me, it would be very disappointing.
@@rrrteee8405 That guy Christian on Flickr defiantly has a unique and dramatic style! Regarding weather sealing, from what I know, the new X100V is far more weather sealed than the X100F was. And while I don't have as much experience with that model, I have been highly impressed with Fuji's weather sealing in their other bodies. From that standpoint, I would guess that the 100V will definitely be more resistant to dust and moisture.
Great video. I was so confused before. BTW, does your book include the xt-200? Thank you.
Thanks, Maureen. Yes, I would say that most of the info in my book is relevant to the XT-200. Some of the menu locations might vary, but the basic content is the same.
Just wondering , were some of the photos taken in Ireland? The scenery and townscapes look familiar to me.
Neil, they were shot in Scotland. I went over there three times during 2017-18. I imagine that much of the landscapes look very similar to what you have in Ireland. I would indeed love to visit Ireland when we can travel again. What part of the country do you live in?
@@DanBaileyPhoto Yes they are similar, particularly on the West Coast. I'm from Dublin, but I live in England now and haven't been able to get home since Covid broke out last year. Really looking forward to getting back and taking some photos with my XT 30. Keep up the good work ,your videos are very informative and have helped me a lot.
Hopefully it will all soon be over.... 😱 Thanks again for your comment. I’m glad you’re enjoying my videos.
Thank you
You're welcome, Jax! What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
I enjoyed your video very much and thank you for sharing your knowledge. Can you buy your book and a bookstore?
Thanks Earl. Yes, Rocky Nook has published a paperback version of X SERIES UNLIMITED, which you can find here, as well as on Amazon and at other retailers. It was released a couple years ago, so it doesn't fully cover the latest models, but if you buy the print version, I'll be glad to give you the eBook version for free so that you'll have all of the up-to-date info. danbaileyphoto.com/blog/product/fujifilm-x-series-unlimited/
So if im shooting raw all of this can be done in Lightroom ? is that correct ? if so can I just leave these settings in camera at the standard settings ?
Basically, yes. Shooting in RAW allows you the most latitude for making adjustments inside Lightroom, but Fuji's specific Highlight and Shadow Tone adjustments are not available in Lightroom. They're in-camera only, or when processing RAW photos inside Fuji's X RAW STUDIO software: th-cam.com/video/0AM6Jde0YnQ/w-d-xo.html
However, Lightroom had a much more expanded parameters for adjusting your light and dark tones, so yes, by shooting in RAW and processing in LR, you'll have more detailed control for editing your image. The H/S tone inside the Fuji cameras simply allows you to make basic adjustments to your exposure in-camera when shooting JPEG, so you don't have to process your photo. Does that make sense?
@@DanBaileyPhoto yes it does thank you so much
Great! What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
Dan, Thanks for the video, great work. I shoot raw and Jpeg. Do the adjustments apply only to the Jpegs?
Hi Francis, thanks for your comment. Sort of. These adjustments do apply to the RAW file, but they’ll only show up if you use FUJIFILM X RAW STUDIO software (free), or if you do RAW conversions in the camera. Most other photo editing software wither won’t read these adjustments, or else the software will zero them out when the image is opened up. Does that make sense?
I like tweaking the shadow tone but I prefer the DR200 option instead of minus highlight tone.
I definitely use Shadow Tone way more often. Don’t use the DR setting very often, but it does work pretty well to control contrast. I should test it out more and see how it handles different situations.
@@DanBaileyPhoto I like Classic Chrome, my "everyday" settings is -1 shadow tone and DR Auto. It has a nice character and has fine/soft tones too.
@@jmarozsan Cool. I'll have to give that recipe a try. One of my favorites is Classic Chrome with +2 Shadow Tone and -2 Color. Bold, with a hard edge, but with subdued saturation.
@@DanBaileyPhotoit makes no sense but try your settings with Grain: Strong, Sharpness: -4, NR: -4. It has no "digital" edge to edge sharpness, but like "organic-analog" grain.
Yeah, the Strong Grain settings is usually excessive but in this case with minimal sharpenss and NR it is produces beautiful, film like picture.
@@jmarozsan You've got me intrigued now, I'll definitely have to give this a try! I actually like the built-in grain settings, but from what you're describing, it sound like this recipe will produce even better, more film-like results. I love how much artistic customization the X Series cameras offer.
As a newbie ,use xe3
How this features different from compensation exposure shutter dial (,however the name is)?
The exposure compensation dial applies an overall exposure adjustment, where the Highlight and Shadow Tone controls allow you to selectively adjust the light and darker areas of your scene. Where the EV dial would lighten or darken everything on an equal level, you can use the H/S Tone to adjust only the brighter areas or the shadows. This gives you more control over how you want your final picture to look.
@@DanBaileyPhoto thanks!
Lastly , exposure compensation if u can make a video on it woukd be great
I do have a video that explains exposure compensation. Watch here: th-cam.com/video/FSxxQ4RwCYk/w-d-xo.html
I'm already familiar with these settings, but I still find it awkward that minus highlights lowers the highlight exposures but minus shadows raises the shadow exposure. I would expect that minus shadows would darken the shadows and plus shadows would brighten hem. Very annoying thing I just cannot get used too.
Patrick- I know, it’s definitely confusing. Here’s how I look at it: “+” always increases contrast, while “-“ always reduces contrast. So, plus drives each tone further towards the edge of the histogram, while minus brings them closer together. Does that make sense?
@@DanBaileyPhoto yeah that does make a lot of sense. Good way to look at it. I'll try to remember it.
How do we find the e book? There is no link in this vid description and I didn't see it on your page. Thanks!
Tobias, there’s an icon/link at the end of this video, but I can see in my comment dashboard that you found a link to my ebook in the next video. 👍
👍🏼👍🏼 good stuff!!
Thanks :) 👍 Glad you enjoyed this one too! What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
Hi Dan, new Fuji user here (X100F - beautiful, powerful camera). Do these Shadow/ Highlight settings affect the RAW files at all? Or only the JPEGs? Also, I have the same question about the DR settings - I mean the 100, 200, 400% settings?
Both the Shadow/Highlight tone settings and DR settings are stored in the RAW file, but you can only see and change them if you're using Fujifilm X RAW STUDIO software to edit your Fuji RAW files, or doing RAW conversions inside the camera. Most other photo software won't be able to read those settings, and the RAW file will essentially be "zeroed out" by the software when you upload the image. Does that make senses? Here is my video on X RAW STUDIO: th-cam.com/video/0AM6Jde0YnQ/w-d-xo.html
@@DanBaileyPhoto Got it, Dan. I suppose it makes sense to process the files with DR, S and H settings using X Raw Studio. Thanks a lot for the info! Gladly subbed.
You’re welcome, and thanks for subscribing! 👍 What kinds of subjects do you like to photograph with your X100F?
@@DanBaileyPhoto The plan was to shoot street/ urban scenes but I'm based in India where we're having staggered lockdowns so I need another plan. I'm a total noob, so I'm soaking up all the info I possibly can. Thanks and keep up the great content!
X series Unlimited >> U HAVE TO BUY IT OR WHAT >> I'M FROM THAILAND >> I USE FUJI XH1 AND PLANIING TO UPGRADE TO XT4 CAUSE OF THE FASTER AUTO FOCUS?? U CAN COMMENT ON IT ALSO??
Yes, you can buy my X Series eBook here. danbaileyphoto.com/blog/master-your-fujifilm-camera-with-my-x-series-unlimited-ebook/ And yes, the X-T4 has fast autofocus than the X-H1, and my ebook fully covers the X-T4.
Another great video, Dan! Thanks! I also have your e-book, which rocks as well. Now, I would appreciate your advice about the best settings on the X-T4 for shooting a sunset in JPEG with no filters. I assume it would be -2 on Shadows, and -2 on Highlights, right? But what other settings would you adjust for a sunset shoot? E.g. which film simulation? Thanks!
PS I know the X-T4 can do HDR. What I am curious about is how you would set the camera in single shot mode (no HDR or bracketing). Thanks. :)
Hi Stefan, thanks so much for your comment. If it were me standing in front of a beautiful sunset scene, I’d probably go with straight Velvia, no adjustments. There are certainly times when I’ll play around with the Highlight and Shadow Tone controls, but I do love the rich, high contrast look of Velvia. It really depends on the scene and what I’m trying to show, but for the most part, my default is straight Velvia. Most of the vibrant image examples in my X Series ebook were shot this way.
I’m sure you’re having a ton of fun with your X-T4!
And, of course, it comes down to personal preference for each shot. I love those inky black shadows, but if there’s situation where you want to open them up and reveal a little bit of detail, then that’s where you might opt to reduce your Shadow Tone. If you wanted to accentuate your shadows even more, then go more to the + side.
@@DanBaileyPhoto Thanks! I have been trying to shoot sunsets with Velvia and Highlights at +3 and Shadows at +3, since I used these settings a few weeks ago shooting black and white with crushed shadows. It worked great for that, but yesterday I realized those settings were the reason why dark areas turned utterly black when trying to shoot a sunset. :/ I'm new to photography and have only had this camera for about a month. Well, well. Lesson learned. How about setting the Dynamic Range to 200 or 400 for sunsets?
I'm going to buy your book
Awesome, I think you'll find it to be a very useful guide. 👍
Hi, Dan, I have a question. Under what circumstance/setting the small square in the EVF will move up and down AND left and right? I set my XT4 in Single Shot mode, Face and Eye detection is disabled. I tried to focus by auto focus. However, the small square in the frame kept moving until I half pressed the shutter. This happened even I tried to focus in Manual Mode. Do you have any idea? This annoyed me very much. Please help.
I can try to answer that. Can you please describe exactly how the AF system is set? 1. What AF Mode are you using Single, Zone, Wide Tracking or AF ALL? 2. Is the AF Switch on the front of the camera set to S or C? 3. Do you have the Touchscreen enabled?
@@DanBaileyPhoto Hi, Dan, thank you so much. 1. I use Single Point in AF Mode. 2. The AF Switch on the front is set to S. 3. The Touchscreen is disabled.
Does this ever happen to you?
Ok, and you're saying that when you press the shutter button halfway to initiate autofocus, the little green box moves around? What kind of movement does it make?
@@DanBaileyPhoto The little box is white. It moves up & down and left & right. Only when I half press the shutter button to confirm the focus it turns green.
Can these adjustments be used on advance filters like hi-key etc?
Stephen, unfortunately the ADV filters are essentially “as-is” effects with fixed parameters, so you can’t edit those looks inside the camera.
@@DanBaileyPhoto Thank you. Just got into the Fujifilm system....whole new experience- a shooting stills renaissance! Excellent video. Will definitely check out your ebook!
@@stephengreg243 Cool! Welcome to Fuji!! It is a whole new world indeed, I hope you're having fun with it! What kinds of subjects do you like to shoot?
Dan Bailey -street and landscapes. But as you’d see on IG I enjoy trying different types. With new camera comes new experiments👍
@@stephengreg243 Always! That's the fun part of any craft, when the tools inspire new ideas and exploration.
Oh and I just bought your book
Thanks so much for your support, I hope you find it to be a helpful resource!
Can you give the link to your ebook. Thnx.
Sure, here it is: danbaileyphoto.com/blog/master-your-fujifilm-camera-with-my-x-series-unlimited-ebook/
Way too many commercials. Useful info, tnx. The screen shot of the Q menu should be longer so the viewer has time to find the S and H controls.
Hi Carl, thanks for the feedback. Glad you enjoyed it and hope you're doing well right now!
Hai Dan i have the gfx 50r and 32-64mm and 110mm i love shooting JPEG s-fine and i like the astia soft film simulation also classic chrome the only film simulation i am missing is Polaroid simulation perhaps i can customise the simulations to mach a polaroide but HOW?
Ted, here's a Polaroid style recipe I found on Ritchie Roesch's great site, Fuji X Weekly: fujixweekly.com/2020/04/11/my-fujifilm-x-t30-polaroid-film-simulation-recipe/
Thanks Dan the simulation is Close to polaroid as it gets i have shoot thousand polaroid images but polaroid also i think had different colors or cassette (film) this is one of them as i remember them, im gona adjust my camera 50r to this setting and save it as Polaroid
@@tedtedsen269 Pretty amazing that we can do this right in the camera! :D
@@DanBaileyPhoto Yes it is, im shooting JPG 95% onley when i shoot sundown and the dynamicrange is to big for my 8bit jpg it gives my bending in the collors in the sky but is gone by converting raw to 16bit TIFF but the cost is 300mg tiff files
I took some pictures of people with x-t1 with 2+ shadow and 2+sharpness and it made the pictures unusable. Faces looked weird and dirty and ugly
Jan-Martin, that's not surprising, I can see that being the case with certain film simulations, and it also depends on the existing light. With a higher contrast, already bold film sim like Velvia and Astia, and strong light, you would quickly run into these kinds of problems. I would recommend trying out different combinations of settings with different film sims in different light.
For example, in many situations, I would actually decrease the shadows and sharpness when shooting portraits. In fact, with my Fuji cameras, I go minus (-) on the Shadow tone much more often than using plus (+) settings. Same with Highlights. With portraits, I would use a film sim like ProNeg Std, which is designed for shooting people.
All of these settings are just tools to help you get better results, depending on the your existing lighting conditions, and obviously, some combinations will give you better results, and some will look worse.
@@DanBaileyPhoto I have been keeping NR on minus 2. What do you do about NR?
I usually keep it at the default setting, and I'm usually pretty happy with that.
@@DanBaileyPhoto what happens if you go to minus 2?
You should check out this article for an in-depth explanation to your question: fujifilm-x.com/en-us/stories/intermediate-month-6-low-light-22-noise-reduction/
th-cam.com/video/utbZafDdfLQ/w-d-xo.html You said +1 to +4 shadow increases in more contrast, more inky shadows. Does +1 to +4 in highlight toning likewise result in greater contrast, brighter highlights?
Yes, Albert. That is correct. + always produces more contrast, so + on the Highlights gives you brighter whites.
@@DanBaileyPhoto thanks, I just bought your X Series Unlimited.
Cool, thanks! I hope you find it helpful. What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
Why not just advise shooters to set their cameras to Jpeg + RAW? Then all your bases are covered.
John, that can work, and shooting JPEG+RAW does give you the option to use the JPEG, or you can have the RAW file to adjust as needed. However, there is one potential issue with this approach: When you upload the RAW file, most software won't show these adjustments. It will zero out most of you Fuji in-camera settings, including the H/S tone and your chosen film simulation.
So, if your JPEG still has problems and you decide to process the RAW file instead, even though it has much more latitude, you'll lose your film simulation colors. This is a big deal for many Fuji shooters, because many of us love the specific color palettes they offer, and unless you're using FUJIFILM X RAW STUDIO software, you'll lose them by shooting RAW.
The approach that would cover all of your bases would be to shoot in RAW+JPEG, AND do these H/S tone adjustments as desired. That way, you might get a better looking JPEG that still preserves your Film sim colors. You may not need the RAW file, and that's kind of thing I'm trying to stress here. And, as I mentioned, if you used X RAW STUDIO, then you have it all covered.
There's a particular appeal to embracing the challenge of nailing and shot in the moment and the enjoy the creative liberation that shooting in JPEG can offer.
Also, some people simply prefer the activity of taking pictures over sitting at their computer editing photos. Not everyone is comfortable editing photos, nor do they have the desire. I'm just trying to let people know what options are available to them with the Fuji cameras. Hope you're doing well and staying safe/sane right now, John!
They won’t lose their jpeg settings if using a Fuji camera with dual card slot . Save jpeg to one slot raw to the other .
Absolutely correct. The advice could have been better.
@@graham_T Yes, but that still doesn't solve the issue I described above. You're still getting an "either/or" with shooting RAW+JPEG. Being able to tweak the JPEGs to your liking just gives you that much more flexibility. In the end, if you love how your image looks right out of the camera, then perhaps you won't even need to revert to the RAW file. It just depends on the scene and your own creative ideas and shooting mentality.
Dan Bailey it is madness not to save raw to one card jpeg to the other . Apply what you like in jpeg settings . Then ...if you get an image that you particularly like you know that you can get even more out of it ...if you want to ....by developing and editing the raw file .