One thing I would like to add. When you loosen the engine cradle bolts the cradel doesn’t go down all the way. The fix is to disconnect both lower shock bolts and it will come down and rest on the loosened bolts.
My bolt backed out on my 02 zo6. Thankfully no damage to crank snout. One thing I’m doing is putting RED LOCTITE 272 on last 14 threads of new bolt. Apparently this is a HUGE problem on these engine. Trust me, you don’t wanna have to do this job again after you do it once. ( cannot stress this enough) you simply heat the bolt to temperature and it is removable if you ever need to do it again.
Nice video Steve AZ711... Good luck I hope this fixes your problems... you always do it showing how to actually getten'r done... that's huge.!!... thumbs up brother.!!
It has been a bear. The heat out west here is quite bad and make working difficult with 30 plus humidity. Setting records for no rain fall this year as well. However, the Vette is coming along quite nicely...vroooom vroooom. This is quite a vehicle. I had a 356b Porsche some years back, but I like this Corvette much better.
Thanks for the video, I am not sure what your reluctance is to applying heat, it takes very little effort and the bolt comes off so much easier and you don't risk snapping it off. I used a wrench with a pretty small breaker bar and it came off easy.
Wondering about a couple of things, 1- The Torque to yield bolt, wouldn’t it be important to go to the proper torque in order to stretch that bolt the right clamping force ? 2- Given the rather low quality of the General Mayhem’s original part, I wouldn’t be concerned about measuring crank snout to balancer surface, besides, what if you were to use an aftermarket piece ? 3- Marking the Damper in relation to crank as advised in the manual , probably makes only sense if the original piece is reinstalled. Great video though.
Yes to question 1. For question 2, I was thinking about the belt alignment travel with the other pulleys on the engine and wanted to be as close to original as possible. It may cause belt wear or throw the belt if ever slightly off. "May" is target word. Question 3, I never read (in my manual) marking the crank. The new damper replacement is balanced to itself (2 piece you know). In addition the replacement pulley while looking identical. it was not. I noticed that the balancing drill holes were very much different than the original one I took off. I am happy the video gave you some food for thought. Thanks for the great comment! Check out Froggy...th-cam.com/video/eQK5dFTn9Ww/w-d-xo.html I believe he also puts an ATI pulley on his C5 in another video.
When I taught shop classes, I used to say that to repair cars, you need a lot of patience -- not when things are going well, for when everything seems to be awful. God bless you sir, you exemplify that motto. I didn't hear one curse word throughout the 3 videos. Congratulations on your videos and your job! I was just wondering if it might be possible to pull off the front clip and radiator, etc. and leave all the exhaust, steering and chassis members in place? Any thoughts on trying to do that, more work one way or another?
I do find myself talking to the vehicle like it was a person sometimes. I get more angry with myself doing some bonehead moves sometimes. Thanks Ian, I am sure I would have enjoyed your class.
Thanks for a great video. I have a thought regarding balance weights. My installation guide says the following: inspect the crankshaft harmonic balancer weights holes for existing balance weights. .... Insert the new crankshaft balancer weigths, of the proper size, into the new harmonic balancer, in the same locations as the old harmonic balancer. I wonder if you installed any balance weights on the new harmonic balancer in the same position as on the old one?
No I did not. My balancer had no weights. It looks to have been balanced by the holes that were drilled on the back from the factory. I looked, and nothing in the holes, just empty. In fact, it really does not remind me of a harmonic balance per say. It seems more like a pulley than a balancer. This Vette engine is all aluminum where as the 5.7l truck engine has a cast iron block and so maybe that is what the book may be referring to. Oh, and the new pulley I installed has holes drilled as well and not in the same places as the old pulley. Therefore, I decided that it as well was balanced by the removing of material instead of adding. Thanks!
Thanks for the reply. I agree with you. I think it seems strange to place balance weights in exactly the same places as on the old harmonic balancer. This presupposes that the new harmonic balancer has exactly the same balance error as the old one. It is almost as if you were to buy a new wheel for the car and move the balance weights from the old wheel and put it in the exact corresponding place on the new wheel and think that the new wheel is correctly balanced.
Nice DIY video. I've always wondered why you would mark the location of the old pulley with respect to the crankshaft end if you are replacing the old pulley with a new one. Balance and/or timing would certainly not enter the picture, and there is no keyway to line up, so what is the concern?
Correct, should not make any difference as the new balancer should be balanced itself. To answer your question,..piece of mind should something go wrong. Nothing more nothing less.
Maybe the idler pulley may be going. Also, check the alternator they can sometimes cause belt squeak. Watch the belt while the engine is running it should be smooth, not bouncy, and look at the balancer and make sure it is good and not moving in and out. Any pulley that the belt goes on should be suspect. You can try a little dish liquid on the belt to see if it goes away. There is also the possibility that you need to change to a new different belt. Remember to check the A/C belt it may be the culprit as well.
JUst watch for pulley wobble or your engine temp running higher than normal. These pulleys are a two piece design that are pressed together with a rubber sleeve between them. When they go they start to wobble and move in and out...some more than others. Also, if the engine is starting to throw its drive belt that is a good indicator as well. Lots of TH-cam videos on this subject as well. 30K is really no miles at all...mine has 198000 and was bought at auction so I do not really know when the pulley started to go.
Milwaukee 1/2" impact wrench 18v, part number 2767-20, has 100ft/lb tightening and 1400 nu busting ft/lb of torque. Unless it needs heat to come off this will take anything off with ease. Might be beneficial to have around
Yeah your right... and with out heat with all the red locktight with the 2767 high torque might just snap the head right off, I've used the 2680 to break loose, with heat maybe 2962 this time around but as big as the 2767 is it may not be a easy fit. Don't get me wrong I love my 2767 especially with the HO batteries it out runs my IR 1" on lug nuts on the big rigs
WHY would you go through all that just to put a stock balancer & bolt back on? You'll potentially have the same issue with the pulley walking forward or backward again and have to do it again. The entire c5 & c6 community it using the Summit Racing balancer & ARP bolt. You might as well pin the balancer to the crank while you're in there & never have to touch it again.
I know about the ARP fix and pinning. Maybe in 194000 miles I might do it that way. I am more than curious as to why the Chevy engineers designed this 2 piece pulley that is not a balance anyway. Believe me, I though long about that ARP fix because it is so much work to do this repair.
@@SteveAZ711 I own a 2007 C6 with a little over 45,000 miles & the pulley/balancer is already starting to wobble. I love the car, but you're right about this ridiculous design as well as the crank not being keyed. GM strikes again. Probably saved 22 cents per car & some executive got a giant bonus. Lol! Definitely doing the ARP/Summit Racing/pin fix.
I have a big big question! So the final steps to torque the bolt are: - sit the pulley, and once is fully seated, put the old bolt, torque it to 240 Ft lbs, then remove the old bolt and put the new bolt and torque it 35ft lbs and turn an extra 140° ? I have a question tho, why are you torquing to 35ft lbs as your final torque, if the bolt you took that was on the previous pulley it was torque to 240 ft lbs... it makes sense to me that I torque the new bolt to 240ft pounds, doesn't it??
Yes it does but the shop manual says to do it this way. I can tell you that after initial 35 ft lbs is reached and I torqued to 140 deg. I believe that the 240 ft lbs is either reached or exceeded by doing the 140 deg. It felt very tight and the bar was bending as well. Probably mechanics use the ARP bolt replacement because it just torques to the 240 ft lbs and you are done. I wanted to stay stock so I did mine this way.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Will be using for DIY harmonic balancer this week. Great video
Great Tutorial Sir
Many thanks
Nice work. Also real world since things almost never go exactly right.
One thing I would like to add. When you loosen the engine cradle bolts the cradel doesn’t go down all the way. The fix is to disconnect both lower shock bolts and it will come down and rest on the loosened bolts.
My Milwaukee 1/2 inch M18 Impact took that bolt off within a few seconds. Gotta have the right tools for the job...
My bolt backed out on my 02 zo6. Thankfully no damage to crank snout. One thing I’m doing is putting RED LOCTITE 272 on last 14 threads of new bolt. Apparently this is a HUGE problem on these engine. Trust me, you don’t wanna have to do this job again after you do it once. ( cannot stress this enough) you simply heat the bolt to temperature and it is removable if you ever need to do it again.
Nice video Steve AZ711... Good luck I hope this fixes your problems... you always do it showing how to actually getten'r done... that's huge.!!... thumbs up brother.!!
It has been a bear. The heat out west here is quite bad and make working difficult with 30 plus humidity. Setting records for no rain fall this year as well. However, the Vette is coming along quite nicely...vroooom vroooom. This is quite a vehicle. I had a 356b Porsche some years back, but I like this Corvette much better.
Top marks for doing such an awkward job! 👏
Thanks for the video, I am not sure what your reluctance is to applying heat, it takes very little effort and the bolt comes off so much easier and you don't risk snapping it off. I used a wrench with a pretty small breaker bar and it came off easy.
Great point!
Hey this is a great video 👍
Thanks for the visit
Wondering about a couple of things,
1- The Torque to yield bolt, wouldn’t it be important to go to the proper torque in order to stretch that bolt the right clamping force ?
2- Given the rather low quality of the General Mayhem’s original part, I wouldn’t be concerned about measuring crank snout to balancer surface, besides, what if you were to use an aftermarket piece ?
3- Marking the Damper in relation to crank as advised in the manual , probably makes only sense if the original piece is reinstalled.
Great video though.
Yes to question 1. For question 2, I was thinking about the belt alignment travel with the other pulleys on the engine and wanted to be as close to original as possible. It may cause belt wear or throw the belt if ever slightly off. "May" is target word. Question 3, I never read (in my manual) marking the crank. The new damper replacement is balanced to itself (2 piece you know). In addition the replacement pulley while looking identical. it was not. I noticed that the balancing drill holes were very much different than the original one I took off. I am happy the video gave you some food for thought. Thanks for the great comment! Check out Froggy...th-cam.com/video/eQK5dFTn9Ww/w-d-xo.html
I believe he also puts an ATI pulley on his C5 in another video.
When I taught shop classes, I used to say that to repair cars, you need a lot of patience -- not when things are going well, for when everything seems to be awful. God bless you sir, you exemplify that motto. I didn't hear one curse word throughout the 3 videos.
Congratulations on your videos and your job! I was just wondering if it might be possible to pull off the front clip and radiator, etc. and leave all the exhaust, steering and chassis members in place? Any thoughts on trying to do that, more work one way or another?
I do find myself talking to the vehicle like it was a person sometimes. I get more angry with myself doing some bonehead moves sometimes. Thanks Ian, I am sure I would have enjoyed your class.
Thanks for a great video. I have a thought regarding balance weights. My installation guide says the following: inspect the crankshaft harmonic balancer weights holes for existing balance weights. .... Insert the new crankshaft balancer weigths, of the proper size, into the new harmonic balancer, in the same locations as the old harmonic balancer.
I wonder if you installed any balance weights on the new harmonic balancer in the same position as on the old one?
No I did not. My balancer had no weights. It looks to have been balanced by the holes that were drilled on the back from the factory. I looked, and nothing in the holes, just empty. In fact, it really does not remind me of a harmonic balance per say. It seems more like a pulley than a balancer. This Vette engine is all aluminum where as the 5.7l truck engine has a cast iron block and so maybe that is what the book may be referring to. Oh, and the new pulley I installed has holes drilled as well and not in the same places as the old pulley. Therefore, I decided that it as well was balanced by the removing of material instead of adding. Thanks!
Thanks for the reply. I agree with you. I think it seems strange to place balance weights in exactly the same places as on the old harmonic balancer. This presupposes that the new harmonic balancer has exactly the same balance error as the old one. It is almost as if you were to buy a new wheel for the car and move the balance weights from the old wheel and put it in the exact corresponding place on the new wheel and think that the new wheel is correctly balanced.
My bolt was already loose 😂 good, but probably not good
that all sounds pretty complicated, good thing I never had a corvette. lol
Yeah, the handling and acceleration it is a blast to drive...so much fun!!!
Nice DIY video. I've always wondered why you would mark the location of the old pulley with respect to the crankshaft end if you are replacing the old pulley with a new one. Balance and/or timing would certainly not enter the picture, and there is no keyway to line up, so what is the concern?
Correct, should not make any difference as the new balancer should be balanced itself. To answer your question,..piece of mind should something go wrong. Nothing more nothing less.
can i ask a qustion. How tight do I have to tighten the pulley bolts?
Drive belt idler pulley bolt Shop Manual says 37 lb ft. same as a/c pulley bolt.
Had mine replaced 03 C5, and now it squeaks like crazy on start up and only calms down slightly when warmed up.Any thoughts? Thanks!
Maybe the idler pulley may be going. Also, check the alternator they can sometimes cause belt squeak. Watch the belt while the engine is running it should be smooth, not bouncy, and look at the balancer and make sure it is good and not moving in and out. Any pulley that the belt goes on should be suspect. You can try a little dish liquid on the belt to see if it goes away. There is also the possibility that you need to change to a new different belt. Remember to check the A/C belt it may be the culprit as well.
I'm wondering when this has to be done as i have a 99 c 5 with 30 k miles?
JUst watch for pulley wobble or your engine temp running higher than normal. These pulleys are a two piece design that are pressed together with a rubber sleeve between them. When they go they start to wobble and move in and out...some more than others. Also, if the engine is starting to throw its drive belt that is a good indicator as well. Lots of TH-cam videos on this subject as well. 30K is really no miles at all...mine has 198000 and was bought at auction so I do not really know when the pulley started to go.
Spraying some wd-40 before removing that bolt won't hurt anything
Nothing like some heat to get it moving.
@@SteveAZ711 true that ...you are more than right
Milwaukee 1/2" impact wrench 18v, part number 2767-20, has 100ft/lb tightening and 1400 nu busting ft/lb of torque. Unless it needs heat to come off this will take anything off with ease. Might be beneficial to have around
Yeah your right... and with out heat with all the red locktight with the 2767 high torque might just snap the head right off, I've used the 2680 to break loose, with heat maybe 2962 this time around but as big as the 2767 is it may not be a easy fit. Don't get me wrong I love my 2767 especially with the HO batteries it out runs my IR 1" on lug nuts on the big rigs
WHY would you go through all that just to put a stock balancer & bolt back on? You'll potentially have the same issue with the pulley walking forward or backward again and have to do it again. The entire c5 & c6 community it using the Summit Racing balancer & ARP bolt. You might as well pin the balancer to the crank while you're in there & never have to touch it again.
I know about the ARP fix and pinning. Maybe in 194000 miles I might do it that way. I am more than curious as to why the Chevy engineers designed this 2 piece pulley that is not a balance anyway. Believe me, I though long about that ARP fix because it is so much work to do this repair.
@@SteveAZ711
I own a 2007 C6 with a little over 45,000 miles & the pulley/balancer is already starting to wobble. I love the car, but you're right about this ridiculous design as well as the crank not being keyed. GM strikes again. Probably saved 22 cents per car & some executive got a giant bonus. Lol! Definitely doing the ARP/Summit Racing/pin fix.
@@SteveAZ711
Also, this issue is SO prevalent, and such a major project, it should've been a recall!
Where are parts 1 and 2???
th-cam.com/video/Ukkaxvex_6E/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/1xfK6b6QET0/w-d-xo.html
@@SteveAZ711 Thanks, I found them and watched all 3 parts.
I have a big big question!
So the final steps to torque the bolt are:
- sit the pulley, and once is fully seated, put the old bolt, torque it to 240 Ft lbs, then remove the old bolt and put the new bolt and torque it 35ft lbs and turn an extra 140° ?
I have a question tho, why are you torquing to 35ft lbs as your final torque, if the bolt you took that was on the previous pulley it was torque to 240 ft lbs... it makes sense to me that I torque the new bolt to 240ft pounds, doesn't it??
Yes it does but the shop manual says to do it this way. I can tell you that after initial 35 ft lbs is reached and I torqued to 140 deg. I believe that the 240 ft lbs is either reached or exceeded by doing the 140 deg. It felt very tight and the bar was bending as well. Probably mechanics use the ARP bolt replacement because it just torques to the 240 ft lbs and you are done. I wanted to stay stock so I did mine this way.
@@SteveAZ711 thanks so much for the answer!! I'll make sure to address your chanel in my videos!! I 🙏🙏🙏