Willys Engine Cylinder Sleeve Installation.....Sizing, Boring, Press Fitting
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 เม.ย. 2020
- In this video I am going to show you the steps involved when installing a cylinder sleeve. You can save your original Willys block!!!!
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Good job saving the block. Enjoyed your work.
so satisfying, great job. I wish to have the expertise to do this kind of job one day
You only think you know how its done---till you seen it done!!! There is always more to it and Thank You for including your experience on what works!!!
I am trying to let people know that a large block and hammer is not the way to install sleeves. Glad you enjoyed the video.
I don't want no engines from China or body parts from the Philippines . Don't know how good they are, just don't want one
( no way ,no how) ! A Buick v6 with a carburetor would also fit a CJ3B nicely if push comes to shove . Reminds me of heating huge couplings or heating bearings with oil or electric devices in heavy industrial applications , ya got one chance. So its about being prepared and speed. And in rare instances shrinking with dry ice. Glad to see ways of stitching blocks and sleeve's to save the oldies. That day is coming for me on a F-head so these videos are gold. Thank you and Stay Safe !
Yes, one chance is correct. Careful machine work, a good clean setup to install them, and it all worked perfectly. Thanks for watching
Brian, great video to watch, very informative. Thanks.
Thank you
Great video , enjoyed every second and learned something in the process. Keep em coming!
Glad you enjoyed it, more on the way.
Always enjoy your videos!
Thanks, appreciate you watching
Thank you for another valuable and informative video, Brian.
Glad you enjoyed it
Great Info as always Brian, Thank You
Thanks for watching
I really enjoy your videos! Your editing and production is much better!
The information you provide is fantastic!
Awesome, thank you!
Always perfect!
I’ve been learning so much from watching your engine series! This was really neat to see. You’re an amazing craftsman!
Thanks Doug, good to hear from you. This video was made so that people could see the correct way to install a sleeve. Too many guys use a big hammer and then people wonder why they have engine problems. More videos on the way.
metalshaper One of these days when the virus passes I want to volunteer to help you for a day around your shop
Just recently found your channel and have watched almost all your videos. I acquired my own CJ2A 6 years ago and have been slowly working on it. I love your videos and anyone with half a mechanical brain can tell that you are exceptional at what you do!! Please don’t stop filming!! I love your stuff and will be contacting you soon to talk about maybe doing my block work or at the least ordering some lubricants and stuff. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!
Welcome aboard!
4:20 I like that blocks get sleeved because the sleeve might be made of a better alloy than the block. Combine that with a set of modern piston rings, and the engine will hold good compression for a long time.
A job well done Brian. 👍
The sleeve process went perfectly and although I am working alone I was able to catch all the footage on camera. Always good to hear from you. Brian
@@metalshaperJeep 👍 It's always good to see your videos Brian. Your workmanship is always first class.
Very cool video thanks for all your information dieing breed !!!
Nice to see you are back busy in the shop. Hello to Maria & Matt, great video also, thx, Bear
Hello Bear, good to hear from you. Maria is busy working from home, and Matt is back to his regular job, so I am on my own again working and filming. Changing things up a bit and not having anyone in the shop anymore.
Take good care buddy, we all are behind you and wish we could be there to help. Sammie has been out helping me daily in the shop, as my 2 knee replacements have been put on hold til this virus is totally gone flat, and maybe mid to end of 2021.Hitting the corvette project as to wrap it up and get our shop space back to normal & onto the CJ. Take care, Bear.
Have to come up and see you. I'm in VA now, Bill Oakes
Really nice work. I watched a video where a shop hammered a sleeve in on a straight 8 and broke it. The machinist said he's done it like that for years. Did it right on TH-cam. Ouch. You're doing it the right way.
Lots of shops do it that way and eight break the sleeve or put cracks they don't see in it and have an engine that does not last long. I is fairly easy to do it the right way like I demonstrated but for some reason people always reach for a big hammer instead.
Nice repair there Brian. Sure wish I had a big arbor press like that! Taker easy bud, Will
Worked out great and this engine will last another generation. Thanks for watching
Had my MB done last year by my local machine shop, it was out to 060 already, and I took the original British Army rule of re-sleeving beyond 050 for jacket thickness, sounds like that was maybe a bit too cautiousl. Relieved to see though that the shop did it exactly the same way as you - really professional engineering, love it!
Good to hear from you, thanks for watching.
Amazing... I only wish I had the machines to do this myself. :)
it has taken a lifetime to collect all the tools I have, so don't feel bad. Thanks for watching
Great video. The L head in my project is currently .60 over and I’m researching my options. Great to see how this work should be done.
Hopefully you will be able to clean up the cylinders and use .080" over pistons. If not you will have to sleeve the block. Don't let anyone hammer in the sleeves if you want a good, long lasting engine.
@@metalshaperJeep Hagerty did exactly that When rebuilding a Buick straight 8. He said "Shizzle Sticks" as he cracked a new sleeve.
Youre winning the battle on heat dissapation with the mass of all that cast iron verses the thin sleeve mass. Pretty spiffy way of installing them if you ask me. Plus you can "feel" the resistance with the press verses a block and hammer. Lot less violent. One smooth shove. Don't know what tonnage that press is but you can see it getting a little harder at the end. Those sleeves ain't going anywhere. Good way to go.......
I like to install them this way so I can feel what is going on. Block and hammer installation is not the way to go but I see it all the time. This press is a 15 ton unit and as the sleeve got lower it did take some effort to seat it against the step. Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for the comment,
Brian
Sleeving is definitely the way to go with these engines, and the bottom shelf to register the sleeve against makes it a problem free engine, especially as you can get away with less interference fit on the sleeve, I notice that the last sleeve was starting to tighten up in the block, even at the speed to put them in, the block was cooling down, with more interference that would have been a disaster, the thought of someone attacking it with a wood block and sledge hammer gives me a chill! I wonder how many cause more cracking than they had in the first place. Stay safe ! Chris B.
Yes things were cooling down fast and I was trying to get everything on camera and go as fast as possible. .002" interference is just enough to hold tight and not distort the block. I have seen many, many professional shops install sleeves with a block and a sledge hammer. Shortly after they had customers with engine problems and they wonder why. I hope if anyone needs to sleeve a block they watch this video to see the correct way to do it. Stay safe and healthy, Brian
never seen this trick but i think it is the best
thanks for watching
Back in the 60s, guys used to punch out 283 sbc .125 to 4inch. Some blocks could not go that far. One of the back cylinders were sleeved to cover that. For its time it was the hot setup before the big blocks came along. I had a 55 belair with dual quads in 1965. Fun car
Yes sir, the good old days. Sleeves are a great fix.
Nowadays, people buy sleeving kits in order to have huge bores on aluminum blocks. They also do that when using extremely large amounts of turbo boost.
I like your method of installing cylinder sleeves. I cringed every tine that I halve watched cylinder sleeves installed with a hammer.
This is the best way to install them. If you ever see anybody install them with a hammer run from that shop. You will have problems very quickly after they are installed with a hammer
Great video Brian, I was going to ask if you need to bore the sleeves after fitting but I see you have already covered that .... thanks for sharing, really appreciate it.
The sleeves will need to be bored and honed to fit the pistons . That will be shown soon in another video.
@@metalshaperJeep I have a similar boring machine , I confirm that this method shown on this video est really professional and the best way to do the job ! People saying that they can sell you finshed liners you don't have to bore after pressing them in are not .... bad idea ! They always have to be checked and bored as they will more or less adapt themselves to the pre bored cylindres - fanthastic video thanks to show it !!!!
@@jozefvandierendonck4240 thanks for watching and understanding that the way I do things is the best way.
What is the boring tool you are using? Thanks for a great video!
I worked in a machine shop for a long time probably half of my life I used to sleeve cylinder blocks. Lots of trucking companies especially with Cat ,Ford tractor engines 3 cylinder gas and diesel . List goes on and on .when they wore out they just sleeve all those cylinders start from scratch. your right nothing wrong with it. I've seen some engines that you would get from a auto supply store yeah it's sleeved .Cylinder block is cracked and they just leave it and they sell these engines so some of you guys might be running sleeved block and not even know it. No hydraulic press you the man. Also car collectors trying to keep the serial numbers on their engines to match cars worth more money sleeved plenty of those too especially the Corvettes. Richard Petty won his 5th Daytona 500 race in a cylinder block that we sleeved ask Maurice. 440 dodge . Damn I'm old.
Good to hear from another person who knows that sleeves are a good way to repair a block. Lots of good stories about sleeves in blocks but some people just don't want them for some reason. This engine sleeve installation came out great and I am sure it will last for many years trouble free. You might be old but I am catching up to you. Good to hear from you. Brian
@@metalshaperJeep yeah some of these car collectors especially the Corvettes they look down at those pretty engines they knew they had a sleeve or even multiple sleeves probably just crap all over themselves. If you got a rag hanging out of your back pocket you know you're doing good. We used to put steal sleeves in the cast iron blocks for petty Enterprises back when they ran the 4040s. I remember those blocks sure we're heavy. I don't know how much know about NASCAR we did work for all of them Childress I mean all of them. These new engines like the yammer's, Kubota can't hardly do anything when you try to punch them out goes straight into the water jacket throw away engines sad. I used dry ice worked pretty good at every now and then you'll get that one that just doesn't want to go.
To any of you gentlemen reading this the airbox check your air box. Good luck and true love .
impressive mechanical press you have! and absolutely right about the not hammering the sleeves in. Seen that with other G503 videos and cannot understand why one would do that since it is so uncontrolled. You mention 080 as an option, the manual goes up to 030 (wartime) and manufacturers between '60s and '90s went up to 050. Going to 080 aren't you very scared with the extreme thin wall of the to middle cilinders, burning the head gasket and overheating issues? I went from 030 to re-sleeving, just to be sure.
There is plenty of material in these blocks and .080" is not a problem, i have done it many times with no trouble at all. Sleeving is a good option as well, but as I say don't ever hammer them in, follow along with my videos for sleeve installation .
@@metalshaperJeep Is that much different from a GPW block? Because got a cut open block on a picture here that shows very thin walls between the middle cooling channel between 2&3. If I read on the G503 forum, many bad experiences with going over 050. But maybe postwar blocks had different waltickness?
Note the Jeep factory Service Manual SM 1002 , "The maximum rebore should not exceed .040" The Jeep Authorized Part system did not stock pistons or rings for bores exceeding .040 thru the majority of the service life for the 4 cyl Jeeps nor did the Army supply system, aftermarket vendors did tho. It is noted in the late 40's parts manuals that .045 Pistons and Rings were available.
@@pcmmulders Everybody has to do whatever makes them comfortable when rebuilding these old engines. Guys always tell me at .080" over I will cut into the water jacket. When installing sleeves I bore to 3.313" well past .080 over and still don't get into the water jacket. I have bored a few blocks to destruction to see how thick the walls were so I know how far I can go. I have been rebuilding these vehicles for over 30 years and have seen and heard everything. I am sharing my experience, take it or leave it.
@@metalshaperJeep of course, i am with you and appreciate the response and content. I am a loyal viewer so no worries. I just want to learn here. GPW blocks are slightly different (weaker construction) so hence the question if you knew if postwar Willys blocks had different wallthickness vs GPW blocks.
If you claim you have enough ‘meat’ than I guess that is the case. With GPW blocks there is a high chance of cutting into the waterjacket, plenty of examples.
Unfortunately I cannot share pictures of my cut open GPW block. Bore of 080 gives you a paper thin wall, less than 1mm.
Have you ever tried loctite sleeve retainer? We've used it for years and never had any issues. You just bore the block to where the sleeve is a light slip fit and put the sleeve retainer all over the sleeve. I will say though you have to act fast because it sets up quickly and it like concrete.
I showed the loctite sleeve retainer in the video on the second sleeve and talked about it. I prefer a press fit but the retainer does work very well also. Without a press fit you don't get as good heat transfer between the sleeve and block and the retainer acts like a small insulation shield .
You heard about recovering worn blocks by having the bores metal sprayed? Had heard that it can be used to recover blocks that can't be saved by boring out and sleeving. The bore can be built up back to original spec and machined back to perfect. Probably quite expensive but if you got to have a matching numbers engine on a rare or expensive vehicle then I guess it's the way to go?
Metal spraying any part of an engine is bad. I don't metal spray crankshafts or any other part. Very bad for engine parts.
I have never heard of metal spraying cylinder bores, only metal spraying of crankshafts. I suppose there aren't better options if an engine is an extremely lightweight casting.
Nice work. Is that an old Kwik Way boring bar?
it is an old Van Norman boring bar.
I take it the bores in the block are Siamesed between 1&2 and 3&4 that is the only place the cylinders look a bit on the thin side. Is there any truth to the quality of the metal in the sleeve being better then the metal in the original block? metal?
Where buy the Sleeves sir?
Can the bores be re sleeved to standard factory size?
Yes, installing a sleeve will take you back to standard factory size. The sleeves I put in this engine will need to be bored to standard 3.125" factory bore.
Question, the block I’m working on has been sleeved. All cylinders are within .05 of each other. The problem; the engine was never assembled: pistons, rings, rods etc..the cyl walls are quite corroded. Can they be bored or should they be replaced?…. I honed #4 but there are significant pits…I’ll send pictures.
Depending on how thick the sleeves are they can be bored with no problem. .020" on the thin sleeves is not a problem and .040" on the thicker sleeves will work. Measure your sleeves before boring.
I have one that had a #3 rod knocking when I bought it, I overhauled by having all the proper work done to the block by a professional motor company that has been in business for many years. They did the block crank and heads for me. I was very careful to assemble it correctly (f-heard). I be danged if #3 rod is knocking again. HJAs a brand new oil pump, . It seems like the maybe the block or crank has a machine tool broke off in a gallery or something. #3 is not getting oil. I have given up on it. I just bought a donor CJ5, and hope that we are able to make a good engine. Anyone ever experience a plugged oil gallery or starving rod bearing before?
common after a rebuild. A lot of shops will not clean out the tiny squirt hole on the rod and it will fail quickly. If all oil galleries are not squeaky clean you can also plug things up and lead to bad problems. After a complete rebuild the engine should last for another 50 years without trouble, so I am guessing that the components were not machined correctly or put together dirty.
Dear Sir , I am looking for a similar mechanical press you are using, do you have any brand name of this very old press ?
Stephen
this is a Greenerd press. They are still available everywhere, from small bench models to large units like you see in the video. They can be found used at machine dealers, or tag sales, ebay, etc...The are super handy presses and you will find many uses for it once you have it.
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"The Chinese blocks are crap" .... no surprise there
They are terrible, but a lot of people are buying them. After they realize they can't put them together without a lot of machine work they often contact me looking for an original Willys block