Great info! I have one like it but haven’t used it yet. This gives me good tips. Thank you. Some constructive criticism is that the onboard camera mic would have to be better than the wireless which seems to vary a lot in sensitivity. Good stuff.
Would you and Jimmy make a video about sharpening the carbide tips? You mentioned it in the video a couple of times but didn’t show it. I got a 777s from a friend but he passed away and took all of his wisdom with him.
I was taught that the main caps should be installed prior to boring, so that is the way I did it. A deck plate makes a difference too, but never had one of those...
Strong Garage have one they showed them boring a model T cylinder, and Ed Mopar Joe's machinist he uses one same, thanks for sharing, all the best to yous and your loved ones
WOW! Not only does Jimmy KNOW his stuff, I have had the opportunity to watch him acquire and rebuild his equipment as well. Not many around with his knowledge and talents.
Boring that way is fine for run of the mill rebuilds, however, for 'performance' oriented builds ? I would suggest some improvements can be made. The Boring Bar mounts on the Block Deck.... but just how close to actual 90* the Bar "Bores" the cylinders can be checked by Boring a cleanup hole.... then remounting the Bar 180* opposite way from the first cut and re-Boring the same Hole with the cutter opening only .001". Apply 4 equally spaced lines the lengths of the cylinder with a felt marker beforehand as 'witness' lines to determine how close the Bar is still Boring to 90*.... adjust the Bar itself accordingly. Secondly, as you are obviously NOT truing/correcting the Block Decks parallel to the mainline before mounting the Boring Bar to the Block Decks.... be aware that most Blcks will be distorted with significant "tilt" and NOT parallel to the mainline.... meaning even if your Bar is Boring perfectly 90* or close.... the Cylinder will be crooked to the Crank.... that's that "wear" at the side of Brgs after usage you thought was poor Con Rod Resizing ? Just say'in.... If you are going to continue on in Engine rebuilding, investment in a Block Resurfacer/Mill that can "correct" Decks parallel to the Mains is a good idea combined with some Boring Bar maintenance/adjustments to enhance it's 90* Boring accuracy.
Best video on youtube explaining the use of a boring bar...thank you...
Thank you 🏁
A long time ago when I learn how to use a van Norm boring bar the very first thing we did was the deck the block
Why not go .040 over and save yourself all that extra boring?
Two reasons. One it’s really not that extra amount of work. Two, I had a new stroker kit that had .060 pistons.
Excellent video. 16:15 block looks cracked right by your finger?
Block casting, all good 🤘🏻
Great info! I have one like it but haven’t used it yet. This gives me good tips. Thank you.
Some constructive criticism is that the onboard camera mic would have to be better than the wireless which seems to vary a lot in sensitivity.
Good stuff.
Thanks for the tips! This process wasn't too bad at all, just takes time!
How can i get one of those clamps that you fabricated
email me at 2hacksgarage at gmail
do me a favor and thank jimmy for letting us viewers in his shop to learn about things.
Thank you! I learned a lot and am glad you enjoyed it!
Would you and Jimmy make a video about sharpening the carbide tips? You mentioned it in the video a couple of times but didn’t show it. I got a 777s from a friend but he passed away and took all of his wisdom with him.
We sure can! Next time I go out there I will make one 🏁
🦈
😜
I was taught that the main caps should be installed prior to boring, so that is the way I did it. A deck plate makes a difference too, but never had one of those...
I would love to have a deck plate!
Strong Garage have one they showed them boring a model T cylinder, and Ed Mopar Joe's machinist he uses one same, thanks for sharing, all the best to yous and your loved ones
I saw Ed using his, he has good taste, HA! I learned a lot and can't wait to learn more! Best to you and yours too!
WOW!
Not only does Jimmy KNOW his stuff, I have had the opportunity to watch him acquire and rebuild his equipment as well. Not many around with his knowledge and talents.
He is definitely a book of knowledge!!! Actually, he should write a book!
Top notch video....I've never seen a full blown machine work for engine block
thank you! I definitely learned a lot that day and can't wait to do it again!
Very cool video!!
I’ve never seen an engine machine in use!!
Thanks Jimmy and Jeff!!
Glad you enjoyed it! It was a huge learning experience for me and can't wait to learn more!
A very cool bore video, your right Jimmy there is full of knowledge. 👍🔧
Thank you! Yes he is, i have a lot to learn from him!
@@2HacksGarage your welcome 😎
Pretty cool stuff fur sure.
Thank you! Definitely one of those days where I just shut my mouth, listened to jimmy, and learned!
Glad I got to see this. Great machine.
It was a fun day!
Got to get caught up with you all.
🤜🏁🏁🏁🏁🤛
good job❤❤
Thank you 🏁🏁
Boring that way is fine for run of the mill rebuilds, however, for 'performance' oriented builds ? I would suggest some improvements can be made.
The Boring Bar mounts on the Block Deck.... but just how close to actual 90* the Bar "Bores" the cylinders can be checked by Boring a cleanup hole.... then remounting the Bar 180* opposite way from the first cut and re-Boring the same Hole with the cutter opening only .001".
Apply 4 equally spaced lines the lengths of the cylinder with a felt marker beforehand as 'witness' lines to determine how close the Bar is still Boring to 90*.... adjust the Bar itself accordingly.
Secondly,
as you are obviously NOT truing/correcting the Block Decks parallel to the mainline before mounting the Boring Bar to the Block Decks.... be aware that most Blcks will be distorted with significant "tilt" and NOT parallel to the mainline.... meaning even if your Bar is Boring perfectly 90* or close.... the Cylinder will be crooked to the Crank.... that's that "wear" at the side of Brgs after usage you thought was poor Con Rod Resizing ?
Just say'in....
If you are going to continue on in Engine rebuilding, investment in a Block Resurfacer/Mill that can "correct" Decks parallel to the Mains is a good idea combined with some Boring Bar maintenance/adjustments to enhance it's 90* Boring accuracy.
Awesome video man!!!!
Appreciate it! Thank you 🏁🏁🏁. Oh, we picked up a honing cabinet last week too!
@@2HacksGarage that's great!
@@moparnut6286 it’s an old one but a good one. We played around with it yesterday, some modifications are needed but it works well!
@@2HacksGarage you guys rock!!
@@moparnut6286 thank you 🏁🏁🏁