1:27 "I can't stress enough the importance of developing the mental fortitude to face every challenge during your assembly and muster the willingness to do the job as many times as necessary to make it right." The creed of the perfectionist
Sir, I am an automotive enthusiast, I grew up in my fathers garage. I have worked on cars all my life. My kids are growing up in my garage. I am a almost bottomless pit of automotive information. I have worked on, repaired and lightly to heavy modified everything from Ford 351w to Honda cb650s, including DSMs a few I personal owned. And YOU sir just made my brain explode. I bow before you.
When you encounter problems, you just take it on as if it were the first step and put it in reverse or whatever is necessary. I have been tried like this on a machine fix before, but you can either get frustrated or get focused! I prefer to get focused. It winds up being some of both, but getting mad will not solve the problem. It’s step by step and sometimes backwards like in this video. If they haven’t done anything like it, they won’t understand the tediousness of it! Sometimes a walk off to vent or calm down may be needed depending on your own mental limits. Rolling with the flow isn’t always easy either! Getting frustrated only makes your blood pressure go up. This video is a study in patience and focus! It shows what can and is done!👍🏻
Learned a GREAT deal about PROPERLY assembling and measuring a dual over head cam engine. It gave thought to a number of factors in engine blueprinting. Thanks ever so much.
Just today I found myself watching older videos of yours (as I often do), wondering when the next one would appear, and lo and behold here it is. I'm really loving all of this as it gives me inspiration for when I finally get to start taking serious steps to making my old Talon a monster. A complete overhaul is in order, but first I'm going to rebuild the engine next summer so these videos are providing a wealth of knowledge not included with the factory service manuals. Thanks Jafro.
You will be happy to know that I spent my Friday night watching this engine build... oh and part of saturday morning since it is now 330AM! Thanks for the hard work and effort put into these great videos, I have learned a lot tonight!
Wow! Needs another fly cut!! Your level of patience is OVERWHELMING!! "Here we go again" as you said is understated! Great work, discovery and explanation!
holy crap. I searched for turbo porting videos, ended up watching your hyundai build series up to here, learning more than I could have bargained for. Definitely one of the best, and most underrated automotive tech channels out there, and my new favorite. I'm even on the hunt for a DSM now, or something cool like your Hyundai (and I'm a subaru guy).
Welcome aboard! The ultimate chassis IMO is the base model 92 Hyundai sCoupe. If my Elantra were a sCoupe, it would be AWD by now. The weight savings over the Colt would be worth it all by itself. There's 100lbs less glass in it, and that's just a start. Loaded, they're 2,100 lbs. They have a Lotus suspension. Less trunk, less roof, less body, shorter wheelbase... Add to that, they're unicorns now. You never see them. Nobody will know what it is. A 2g DSM sure would be a lot more comfortable, though.
Yeah, my initial autotrader, craiglist, ebay searches have found almost nothing, but I'll have to look into that sCoupe. DSM's are much easier to find... unless I wanted to go super crazy with fabbing up a complete swap in a 90's civic hatch. Your Colt build is definitely next on my watch list.
After setting valve lash in my Subaru build, I can say that next time, I will not do that again...I don't think many people realize how tedious a job it really can be. Love the videos man and keep them coming.
Thanks again for posting, Jafro! Thoroughly enjoyable, educational, and much appreciated. Thanks for the tip on the rolled vs. cut bolts for a stripped aluminum situation, and nice solution for the rattling timing cover, too.
I can safely say that is the CLEANEST high tech rebuild I've ever had the pleasure to witness AND on a Frankenstein engine no less, just amazing. But as you say the dividends will be in your right foot when she's all said and done. Love that bass beat Mr Chocolate!
Ah I have again been very impressed with this 4G63 rebuild coverage. Amazing engine mechanic, Very thorougher. Reminds me of my Toolmaker Machinest eng days when I ran a shop.
You said each second is a minute and so you just compressed >22 hours of wrenching into a 22 minute video that honestly felt like something less than 5. Bravo! This is phenomenal work! I noticed a haircut happened in the middle somewhere. No doubt you were on this for several days. Now I think I need to get a video camera before I paint my e30 this fall. I feel inspired! Thanks!
Chris Zinner Try a month... I shot the last scenes only 11 hours prior to upload. I try to keep my appearance consistent but it's becoming an impossibility lately. Trying to put the same shop clothes on from one group of tapes to the next... I went through 4 concert shirts and 2 others during the course of this. The haircut just couldn't wait anymore. When my 'fro starts blocking shots, I gotta do something about it. Lots of luck with the e30. If all goes well for me, hopefully the Galant gets the same treatment.
I own a 99 Mustang G that I am going to be building a streetable big block or 351w ... I've watched the port and polish video and subscribed... watched this video and totally recharged on inspiration. This is a freakin nice build. I'm a smart guy, but the whole cam timing and mathematics gets me so i leave that for the pros to that. This is awesome!
I think you're teasing us!!! I predict that when you are hoisting the motor into the engine bay you will look at the camera and say, "wait a minute. I need to blue print the cherry picker chain!" While I'm kidding I would like to see what kind of power torque all your hard work and thought has produced! : ) Great videos, as usual.
Very nice video, I like when people spending time cleaning parts even if those parts looks clean. And I like that every bolt is tighten with torque wrench. Can't wait you fire up that beast :D
I very much enjoy your videos ***** I have seen a few 4g63 builds in person that are quite potent in HP numbers. Its awesome how you go so in depth with your videos. Keep up the great work!
This video was soo awesome!!!! finally the beast is put together. Thanks again jafro I cant wait to see this motor gets some fresh air/gas and maybe a couple of runs down the track!!! thanks again brotha.
Goddamn, in a way, all that work and precise measurement is applaudable, but it also seems daunting. I'd really like to do the same things to the same engine one day, but I'm not sure if I'll be cut out for it. Only time will tell I guess. Really excited about this build though, can't wait to hear it come to life!
It's all about "how bad do you want it". Even if you don't feel confident doing the work, watching these videos will help you have a better conversation with your mechanic. ;)
Just an observation : didn't you paint the head previously? Different head? or out of sequence? Anyway, thanks for a very informative and well presented series. BTW - we used to use silly putty on the piston, assemble head and turn motor - take apart and check pocket depth and alignment with valve and do the necessary carving (worked well in 1973 ;>} )
Different head. I have 4 cars powered by this engine model. That head got assembled with 1mm oversized SS intake and Inconel exhaust valves in Cylinder Head 203. It's assembled, minus the cams, but that head hasn't been installed yet. I have a lot of work to do to the block first.
Unbelievable!!! Long time watcher first time commenter. This was a test in mental strength just to watch and adsorb the level of information and sheer amount of work going on. Bravo to you and I am on the edge of my seat waiting for the next instalment. Any word on the VR4??
That has to be the best video on discovering what I have to have done to my 1996 Elantra. Dam that was good. You have my highest respect on your tenacity. How do I get to your place from Lake Charles, LA? LOL! I have watch this a second time. When you began to start all over again, I started feeling seasick.
After pulling the heads on and off so many times, changing to ARP head studs was probably a good thing. Head bolts do have service limits, as well, even if they are not clearly spelled out in the manual. I may have also suggest using the red thread lock on the screw to the oil cap. It would suck if it fell in the motor simply because you were trying to fix an annoying leak. I look forward to seeing The Elantra run. I also look forward to more videos on the Colt. Don't get me wrong. Nothing against the Hyundai but the Colt has some serious potential, knowing you.
The head didn't get torqued but once. I only snugged the head bolts each time. Didn't crush the gasket until the ARP's went in. ;) The factory bolts proved themselves. They were re-used on 3 different cars first, then on this 9.8:1 setup that saw 24 PSI once. It didn't break because of a head gasket. :D Factory 12mm bolts.
Word. Can't wait to see the set up I'm in the of a build The long block has stock internals but a built head. Ported polised Manley tt retainers. Seats. Nd springs hks 272. Cams 1+ mm over sized valves can't wait to. Drop it in Set it up with dsm link DNT know what I'm doin. With the dsm link but that's how u learn lol
You should get a helicoil set for those M6's. I had to coil all my cam cap threads and my valve cover bolt holes... most were stripped from previous owner. It was cheap and easy and they hold a ton of torque.
Got dizzy watching the whole thing. That's some serious work just to get everything to spec out how you wanted. Sucks the fly cuts didn't work right the first time. Picked up a lot of great tips here because my 2.0L FS is very similar. Timing cover and valve cover gasket issues are similar too. I honestly think my FS was designed by Mitsubishi for Mazda. Would make a lot of sense with the amount of Mitsubishi electronics in my car. My ECU even has a Mitsubishi logo on it. Lots of similarities but I would watch your videos even if there weren't.
***** No, totally different. But all the charge pipes, air regulation and sensors are emblazoned with Mitsubishi logos. At least they asked the pro's to help them engineer it. ;P
Aww man i have been waiting for a video from you.. well seems like FOREVER Jafro. I always miss your videos. I almost kinda wish you uploaded on a day basis an just cut the videos into shorter version. That way you wouldnt have to fast foward your whole video! And could spend some time talking about what your doing. Its sometimes hard to follow you an all of that knowledge of yours. :( But regardless still love your videos! keep it up. I wish you were here to help me out on my Supra build. I have so many question, yet not many people know.
Soooo many options... I'll go ahead and open the other can. Let this marinate... Anyone care to guess what the hot side's going to be? Used parts... remember.
***** I can't think of a good guess. I vaguely recall that you were disappointed in a shinier exhaust manifold a while back, and replaced it with pipes that had a lot less surface glint but worked better. Shiny is good, but I'm OK with rough surfaces on the side that has the fires of Mount Doom pouring through every 4th stroke. Heat just does that to metal unless you do some really expensive things to it. Speaking of Mount Doom and exhaust manifolds, I wonder if a material exists that: 1) could be painted on the side of metals and not fall off easily, 2) pretty much matches the color of the metal at room temperature, and 3) glows via incandescence when heated well above room temperatures. The result would be the ability to put lettering on your exhaust pipes that is only visible when the pipes are hot. I'd make the lettering in Tengwar, the same font used for the writing that's only visible when The One Ring is heated. I'd probably write: "If you can read this, get a life", but maybe someone can think of something better. It would be a good joke on those who don't notice the lettering until they happen to see the engine when it's hot. "Three rings for the... something piston something..." Nah. "One stroke to drive it all, and in the gearbox grind them." Nah. Anyway, if incandescent materials don't work out, maybe it could be done with LED lighting. Hmm. Well, it would be fun to add something like that when I finally rebuild my '91 Eclipse. The glowing lights project shouldn't take long, because, you know, it's only... while I'm in there.
I almost put your comment in the edits. ALMOST! lol. Don't think I didn't read it. If it didn't interfere with the subtitles, and didn't have a link in it, it would be there because you're right. They're the way to go. I'm glad I had the 1st cut so evenly milled because it made my easy finishing cuts more uniform. I really liked the yoshifab unit. I facepalmed for not thinking of it first, then did the Edvard Munch scream face while realizing they should never have gone to the shop in the first place. Then reality took hold reminding me I don't have a junk 4g63 head. I have a friend with a 5-axis CNC at work, though. Might call for a gub'mint job.
This is an incredible show of dedication, and you say it's for a winter beater?! I can't wait to see you fire this thing up for the first time. Do you ever get out to car shows BTW?
I use modeling clay on the piston to determine the cut/clearance and shape needed. I give the piston with the modeling clay to the machinist and it gets cut according the shape left by the valve.
I was going to use a clay bar. Just like modeling clay, its texture and consistency feels perfect for this. I hope I never have to do this again, though... This was an exercise in making out-of-spec factory parts from 3 different engines work together, lol! Using them for a completely different purpose than they were designed for. I plan on buying the right parts that fit from now on!
Awesome. Your videos always brighten my day. So I ran the fiesta at the track. 15.2 was best e.t. at 88 mph. Worst time was a 16.2 at 95 mph. As an experienced drag racer can you explain how my best time was my worst mph?
Yes I can. It's because you got a better 60' time. You got that thing moving faster out the hole. If you take one tenth off your 60' time, it takes .2 off your total ET. Whenever you do this, you end up with a lower mph. A slower launch = faster MPH. You will be able to do that math and confirm this. One tenth off the 60' = two tenths off the ET. That's why races are won or lost on a hole shot. ;)
***** huh that makes perfect sense. The one time I didn't spin is the fastest time. It was a non sticky day and launch was tough. Good time though, got to make six passes.
you should turn the engine over a few times before the final torque seqence for the cam caps, what flips me out , is these days the cam shafts run without bearings, just and oil feed hole and if you got anything hard in there it grinds up the saddle for the cam, ive heard of offset line boring the cam tunnels, as a repair but wouldnt babbit bearings save alot of heads that would other wise end up in the scrap yard?
Wouldn't you have to re-weigh each piston after the fly-cuts, or is it too little of material removed to make a difference? I love your videos, very entertaining and informative!
The ones the machine shop cut look huge, but they didn't even add .3ml to my dish volume. A gram of steel is the same amount of material used to make a paper clip. The pistons are a cast aluminum alloy, and I only had to put a nick in each side. I didn't have to cut them deeper. I put a lot of thought into that one and I knew someone would ask. Technically, yes, you should... and it's true I removed too little and too evenly to make a difference in their overall weight... but it's the Hyundai. It was as much as 4 grams out before I balanced them. It's still a huge improvement, but I just couldn't justify the time, effort and waste of mineral spirits just to confirm I didn't hurt it. I'm sure they're all still within 1 gram. Pat yourself on the back. You asked the right question. The one I was self-conscious about in my production, but too lazy to do anything about. ;) There I go contradicting the point of my video. xD
Thanks man, love what you been following for a while now, 1st comment ever. I still dont fully understand the need for 1lb test springs. Any chance you explained it and I missed it? Im currently in the same process.
Well the 1lb spring allows you to easily remove and install the rocker arms and set zero-lash if that's something you have to do on your engine. I found that one of my test lifters worked better than the other, so being able to do that also allowed me to move my good test lifter to the next valve along with the dial gauge, etc... They turned out to be enormously convenient and I think I learned my lesson. Next time I run into a problem child like this, I'm going to buy 16 of the d*mn things, install them all at once, dye mark the pistons and only have to install/remove the head twice. 1lb vs. 100lbs x 16 valves works out much better while you're hand-turning the crank as well. :D Test springs. $2.35 for two. It's worth the $20 to buy all 16. GOOD QUESTION!
Great video. That is really high compression. What kind of boost will this car see? Also when is the 2g coming back to life? I been waiting a long time. I check for updates.But nothing on it for some time. Please put the 2g back on the road. I wanna see its revenge on the track.
Jafro, was wondering what you think about the mitsu mls head gasket in comparison to a perma torque or other composite gasket. I'm sure the mls has a benefit dealing with knock but requires very specific block surface???
Very nice video from talented person! i just want to mention that i really hate engines that have timing belt driven water pumps... otherwise everything sounds good :)
It feels really good to get off of work and watch your videos. How many hours you rack up on this one? I know just gapping my rings on my car took quite some time. lol. This had to be like a 16hr gig.
+Robert Ballard You are asking questions with replies disabled. How are you going to know that I replied? A: You won't. There's a large metal disc that goes between the crank gear and a the front case, behind the balancer belt gear, and it has a notch in it that lines up with a pointer cast into the front case.
I didn't see you cc the head or the piston/block and do the math for the compressed value of the head gasket 21:07... how do you know what your compression ratio is?
nice videos! Learning all i can to build my own engine. I have a question, do you have to check valve clearance with not to agressive cams like and stock valves?? the stock valve will fit in stock piston cut? thanks for you videos.
Regarding valve clearance, stock parts tend to offer more forgiveness. It's when blocks and cylinder heads get resurfaced, pistons, rods or crankshafts get replaced, or you install bigger valves and aftermarket cams that you would want to pay close attention to this. As long as the cylinder head and block are not resurfaced beyond specification and everything else is OE stock equipment, then you should be safe. In my case, the pistons, cylinder head, camshafts and valves all came from 4 completely different model cars. They should have never been used together in the same car, but we massaged them all in there. That's why this engine needed all of this extra time and effort.
Hi jafro quick question if you get a minute, I'm going for just stock rebuild on my 97 GSX, it has a 6 bolt swap and I'm getting ready to install my timing belt. I understand the timing marks on the cam gears but how do you know where to put the belt on the crank gear? My balance shafts are eliminated so I know I don't have to line up the oil pump. Thanks! :)
just did a comp test after replacing a head gasket and I have 2 @125 psi and 2 @ 230psi..Is 230 acceptable for a santa fe 2.4 engine? the low ones point to leaking valves so off it comes again
With that said. Just wondering if any of those spare turbo manifolds and 16g's are fore sale.... Just wondering. And keep up the good work. Lots of great things I have learned watching these videos through out the last 3 years. Thumbs up....
Jeremy Head 1 you wouldn't want, 1's being used for the Hyundai, 1's likely headed for the Galant, 1's migrating to another project car that has not yet been introduced to the channel. That car doesn't live here. Nobody's seen it yet. Jafro will not be the mechanic, but I'm fairly certain it will make an appearance. There are 2 project cars actually. Can't wait to introduce you to Le Roi.
Nice to see that head being torqued down I bet you a relieved!, With ARP's on the hyundai does that mean L19's or H11's on the gsx build? haha. Hows the ribs hope they are coming right, almost time for some runs at the track.
kbcustomz MAYBE! :O Ribs are at about 60% now. 2 months later. It's really helping my production to have them stuck back together instead of floating around in my giblets. I don't recommend this sort of injury to anyone.
Jafro it is i ; again. I concluded or at the very least i have a theory, that i bent all my valves due to not degreeing, and setting my cam gears at zero. Using your doctrine I will get it right. But here is my question, won't I just rebend my valves as soon as I spin the crank with the belt on as I take my readings what can I do yo ensure I won't make contact (piston to valves) as I rotate the engine, which is necessary to actually prevent those parts from making contact. Thanks in advanced and apologies for complicating the subject. 6bolt(4g63) bc272's
Gaucho Panocha Thank you for your complete and well-articulated post. So often I have to guess these variables. The BC cams offer more lift over stock, so it's critical to do the valve clearance tests. In the event that you hand-crank the engine, bending valves is far less likely turning it by hand prior to installing the engine in the car than if you install it, hit the key, and crank it over. Turning it slowly by hand gives you the opportunity to feel the piston and valve contact should it occur. There are several reasons why it can occur turning it by hand. One being hydraulic pressure in the lifters, and the other being incorrect valve timing. When you install your lifters, they should all be bled completely down so that all 16 are squishy. If they're pumped up, there's a huge risk of bending valves because they can hold the valves open. Until hydraulic lifters are pressurized, maximum lift can not be achieved... not unless the lifters were *not* bled down when they were installed. If they were not, then it's possible that even more lift than the cams can generate were applied to the valves, as the inflated lifter will actually hold the valves open when they should be closed. This makes piston/valve contact inevitable. This is a real and prevalent issue on a 4g63 as the block is a zero-deck block (meaning the pistons and deck are flat when the pistons are at the top of the stroke). These variables regarding hydraulic lifters are why you have to use a solid lifter adjusted for zero-lash when you do your valve timing and clearance tests. It creates static lift. Hydraulic valvetrains create dynamic lift based on oil pressure. Turning the engine over by hand should permit you to feel contact with the valves/pistons and give you a chance to stop, break it down, and fix the problem. If you rely on the key and the starter, you miss this quality control step. You should never have to forcibly turn the engine. Do this with the spark plugs removed so that it's easier to turn. But here's the kicker... the .100" exhaust valve clearance and .080" intake valve clearance values are there to compensate for valve lash and thermal expansion that only occur under normal engine operation. You can have inadequate valve clearance on deflated lifters and experience ZERO interference problems on the engine stand... but bend all 16 valves the moment you fire it up if you have less than those clearance values. That means until the engine fires and your lifters blow up, and until it gets warm enough to cause thermal expansion, you won't notice problems with valve clearance. Once the engine is hot, they may touch down. If you do your test and find .080" on the exhaust like I did with the cams lined up correctly, it's not enough clearance to avoid this... but turning it by hand reveals no problems. This is why you HAVE TO check clearance when you change cams or gears. It's a hard lesson to learn when you have to learn it twice. Mechanics who learned it the hard way are half as dangerous as the ones who always got it right the first time. Hope this puts the confidence back to take that exam again. ;)
Unsurprisingly it did, I was confident you would be able to put focus on the perspective, like always I am grateful to you and all of your work. You are a great asset to those of us who follow in your steps, thanks again and when the time comes I would like to shoot you a link with my steps documented influenced by your lectures.-thumbs up"
hey I've been watching a lot of your videos lately as I'm about to take on my own build. one I wanted to say you do amazing work and I'll be applying a lot of what your teaching on my build. however I'm not building a 4g63 I'm actually building a 2.3 sohc ford turbo motor, when it comes to cam timing and valve clearance will a adjustable cam gear be needed?
Only if you can't get the cam timing events within a degree of spec. Count the number of teeth on the cam gear and divide 360 by that number. Multiply the result by 2. That's how many degrees moving the belt (or chain) a whole tooth will offer. If you can't hit the value by moving it a tooth, and it's off when it's lined up, then you need the adjustable gear.
Nah, that's exactly what the .100" exhaust clearance is for. It's the amount NEEDED for thermal expansion, valve deflection, belt deflection, etc... ;)
You should ditch all of those rubber IC pipes get a front mount and 16G. Should easily get into the 12s. I see you own a VR4 and GSX what's all done to them? I've owned a lot of Supras and have gotten into Subarus. I now have a Legacy GT which I plan on either doing a STI swap or maybe a 2jzgte rwd set up along with my current 2jzgte/Mk3. Always liked DSMs and built a few for friends and customers.
great video like all the rest. i have a question tho. i currently own a 97 mustang and love it but way to many problems and ive always wanted a 4g63 to call my own fortunately i dont have the money to buy an evo and an eclipse is to old (i need a reliable daily that i can wrench on) so i was thinking i might get a lancer and put a 7 bolt in it even tho everyone says it would cost more than buying an evo (lancer $4000 vs evo $20k+)(i dont think it will cost me $15000...) plus i love a challenge what do you think?
It think it will take a whole lot more effort. The further you deviate from the platform, the harder you will work building it back into it. For instance... My Colt is taking entirely too long to finish. It's because of 4 projects, but it's an awful lot of work to make it AWD. If you have no aversion to hard work and spending lots of time, then you earned your fat pockets. I think it would be awesome, and you'd be a pioneer.
Shouldn't you have installed the head studs at some point prior to the final assembly when having the block honed/setting the piston to wall clearances with a torque plate? Not bashing, just curious. I've learned a tremendous amount from watching your videos and you put out some of the best engine building videos on youtube!
All that was done with the stock head bolts. I decided at the last minute to use the head studs because I didn't realize that I had an extra set available. :)
1:27 "I can't stress enough the importance of developing the mental fortitude to face every challenge during your assembly and muster the willingness to do the job as many times as necessary to make it right."
The creed of the perfectionist
Sir, I am an automotive enthusiast, I grew up in my fathers garage. I have worked on cars all my life. My kids are growing up in my garage. I am a almost bottomless pit of automotive information. I have worked on, repaired and lightly to heavy modified everything from Ford 351w to Honda cb650s, including DSMs a few I personal owned. And YOU sir just made my brain explode. I bow before you.
When you encounter problems, you just take it on as if it were the first step and put it in reverse or whatever is necessary. I have been tried like this on a machine fix before, but you can either get frustrated or get focused! I prefer to get focused. It winds up being some of both, but getting mad will not solve the problem. It’s step by step and sometimes backwards like in this video. If they haven’t done anything like it, they won’t understand the tediousness of it! Sometimes a walk off to vent or calm down may be needed depending on your own mental limits. Rolling with the flow isn’t always easy either! Getting frustrated only makes your blood pressure go up. This video is a study in patience and focus! It shows what can and is done!👍🏻
Learned a GREAT deal about PROPERLY assembling and measuring a dual over head cam engine. It gave thought to a number of factors in engine blueprinting. Thanks ever so much.
Just today I found myself watching older videos of yours (as I often do), wondering when the next one would appear, and lo and behold here it is. I'm really loving all of this as it gives me inspiration for when I finally get to start taking serious steps to making my old Talon a monster. A complete overhaul is in order, but first I'm going to rebuild the engine next summer so these videos are providing a wealth of knowledge not included with the factory service manuals. Thanks Jafro.
You will be happy to know that I spent my Friday night watching this engine build... oh and part of saturday morning since it is now 330AM! Thanks for the hard work and effort put into these great videos, I have learned a lot tonight!
Wow! Needs another fly cut!! Your level of patience is OVERWHELMING!! "Here we go again" as you said is understated! Great work, discovery and explanation!
In order to have a "labor of love", you have to first love the labor. Keep your eyes on the prize.
holy crap. I searched for turbo porting videos, ended up watching your hyundai build series up to here, learning more than I could have bargained for. Definitely one of the best, and most underrated automotive tech channels out there, and my new favorite. I'm even on the hunt for a DSM now, or something cool like your Hyundai (and I'm a subaru guy).
Welcome aboard! The ultimate chassis IMO is the base model 92 Hyundai sCoupe. If my Elantra were a sCoupe, it would be AWD by now. The weight savings over the Colt would be worth it all by itself. There's 100lbs less glass in it, and that's just a start. Loaded, they're 2,100 lbs. They have a Lotus suspension. Less trunk, less roof, less body, shorter wheelbase... Add to that, they're unicorns now. You never see them. Nobody will know what it is. A 2g DSM sure would be a lot more comfortable, though.
Yeah, my initial autotrader, craiglist, ebay searches have found almost nothing, but I'll have to look into that sCoupe. DSM's are much easier to find... unless I wanted to go super crazy with fabbing up a complete swap in a 90's civic hatch. Your Colt build is definitely next on my watch list.
After setting valve lash in my Subaru build, I can say that next time, I will not do that again...I don't think many people realize how tedious a job it really can be. Love the videos man and keep them coming.
TH-cam cut the last 3 seconds of my video off. :( I notice this 21,024 views later...
It's okay I don't mind riding shotgu
Dude I would love to work with you! Where could I acquire the knowledge that you have?
Jafromobile Can I say it?! "Stay tubed!"
Holy sh** I feel like I need to build something
Thanks again for posting, Jafro! Thoroughly enjoyable, educational, and much appreciated. Thanks for the tip on the rolled vs. cut bolts for a stripped aluminum situation, and nice solution for the rattling timing cover, too.
I can safely say that is the CLEANEST high tech rebuild I've ever had the pleasure to witness AND on a Frankenstein engine no less, just amazing. But as you say the dividends will be in your right foot when she's all said and done. Love that bass beat Mr Chocolate!
Ah I have again been very impressed with this 4G63 rebuild coverage. Amazing engine mechanic, Very thorougher. Reminds me of my Toolmaker Machinest eng days when I ran a shop.
Way to persevere. No "That'll Do" BS. Great to see pride expressed via attention to detail.
Man I can really appreciate all your hard work. I can only imagine Haworth much more time your have to put in on editing these videos. Thanks
way to go you show how much time effort and paitients it takes .WELL DONE EXELENT WORK ETHICK
You said each second is a minute and so you just compressed >22 hours of wrenching into a 22 minute video that honestly felt like something less than 5. Bravo! This is phenomenal work! I noticed a haircut happened in the middle somewhere. No doubt you were on this for several days.
Now I think I need to get a video camera before I paint my e30 this fall. I feel inspired! Thanks!
Chris Zinner Try a month... I shot the last scenes only 11 hours prior to upload. I try to keep my appearance consistent but it's becoming an impossibility lately. Trying to put the same shop clothes on from one group of tapes to the next... I went through 4 concert shirts and 2 others during the course of this. The haircut just couldn't wait anymore. When my 'fro starts blocking shots, I gotta do something about it.
Lots of luck with the e30. If all goes well for me, hopefully the Galant gets the same treatment.
I own a 99 Mustang G that I am going to be building a streetable big block or 351w ... I've watched the port and polish video and subscribed... watched this video and totally recharged on inspiration. This is a freakin nice build. I'm a smart guy, but the whole cam timing and mathematics gets me so i leave that for the pros to that. This is awesome!
I think you're teasing us!!! I predict that when you are hoisting the motor into the engine bay you will look at the camera and say, "wait a minute. I need to blue print the cherry picker chain!" While I'm kidding I would like to see what kind of power torque all your hard work and thought has produced! : ) Great videos, as usual.
awesome, I am glad that motor is back together. I can't wait to see what combo you put together and see it all go together
I am amazed at your knowledge and more importantly patience. Where did you go to school? And how long have you been building engines ?
Very nice video, I like when people spending time cleaning parts even if those parts looks clean. And I like that every bolt is tighten with torque wrench. Can't wait you fire up that beast :D
I very much enjoy your videos ***** I have seen a few 4g63 builds in person that are quite potent in HP numbers. Its awesome how you go so in depth with your videos. Keep up the great work!
great video i just wanted to say that i had a hyundai elantra engine# 2.0 and it lasted me almost 250.000 miles before i had to sell it.good engine
This video was soo awesome!!!! finally the beast is put together. Thanks again jafro I cant wait to see this motor gets some fresh air/gas and maybe a couple of runs down the track!!! thanks again brotha.
Goddamn, in a way, all that work and precise measurement is applaudable, but it also seems daunting. I'd really like to do the same things to the same engine one day, but I'm not sure if I'll be cut out for it. Only time will tell I guess. Really excited about this build though, can't wait to hear it come to life!
It's all about "how bad do you want it". Even if you don't feel confident doing the work, watching these videos will help you have a better conversation with your mechanic. ;)
YEAAAAAH BOIIII new upload !!!! so exited to watch this.....
Just an observation : didn't you paint the head previously?
Different head? or out of sequence?
Anyway, thanks for a very informative and well presented series.
BTW - we used to use silly putty on the piston, assemble head and turn motor - take apart and check pocket depth and alignment with valve and do the necessary carving (worked well in 1973 ;>} )
Different head. I have 4 cars powered by this engine model. That head got assembled with 1mm oversized SS intake and Inconel exhaust valves in Cylinder Head 203. It's assembled, minus the cams, but that head hasn't been installed yet. I have a lot of work to do to the block first.
7:26, that sound when he poped the head LOL
LOL! Never noticed that. That's in the actual accelerated soundtrack. That's hilarious.
Unbelievable!!! Long time watcher first time commenter. This was a test in mental strength just to watch and adsorb the level of information and sheer amount of work going on. Bravo to you and I am on the edge of my seat waiting for the next instalment. Any word on the VR4??
Yes. Waiting for my turn for space. It's getting a full restoration, but not here. I'll be doing the work I can do, but I need space. Soon!
im a honda guy and i absolutely love your vids
I just watched the best music video ever
What
Love your work. Reaching Balance and blue printing
That was incredible, anyone have a cigarette?
Can't wait to see it fly.
It's killing me. This will be the best winter beater car ever.
make sure you install neon. Everyone knows it makes you faster.
***** As long as the *HEATER* works !!!
Oh yessir. Heaters work on turbo
DSMs. Yessir. Cast iron blocks... Park it for an hour, come back out and it's still hot.
That has to be the best video on discovering what I have to have done to my 1996 Elantra. Dam that was good. You have my highest respect on your tenacity. How do I get to your place from Lake Charles, LA? LOL!
I have watch this a second time. When you began to start all over again, I started feeling seasick.
Your dedication is impressive! well done to you sir :)
After pulling the heads on and off so many times, changing to ARP head studs was probably a good thing. Head bolts do have service limits, as well, even if they are not clearly spelled out in the manual.
I may have also suggest using the red thread lock on the screw to the oil cap. It would suck if it fell in the motor simply because you were trying to fix an annoying leak.
I look forward to seeing The Elantra run. I also look forward to more videos on the Colt.
Don't get me wrong. Nothing against the Hyundai but the Colt has some serious potential, knowing you.
The head didn't get torqued but once. I only snugged the head bolts each time. Didn't crush the gasket until the ARP's went in. ;) The factory bolts proved themselves. They were re-used on 3 different cars first, then on this 9.8:1 setup that saw 24 PSI once. It didn't break because of a head gasket. :D Factory 12mm bolts.
Gosh that was satisfying to watch. Thanks!
Word. Can't wait to see the set up I'm in the of a build The long block has stock internals but a built head. Ported polised Manley tt retainers. Seats. Nd springs hks 272. Cams 1+ mm over sized valves can't wait to. Drop it in Set it up with dsm link DNT know what I'm doin. With the dsm link but that's how u learn lol
You should get a helicoil set for those M6's. I had to coil all my cam cap threads and my valve cover bolt holes... most were stripped from previous owner. It was cheap and easy and they hold a ton of torque.
Good god is this man ever talented!
Ready to see it run again, holy torque every bolt batman! Throw that 20G on and some link!
Got dizzy watching the whole thing. That's some serious work just to get everything to spec out how you wanted. Sucks the fly cuts didn't work right the first time. Picked up a lot of great tips here because my 2.0L FS is very similar. Timing cover and valve cover gasket issues are similar too. I honestly think my FS was designed by Mitsubishi for Mazda. Would make a lot of sense with the amount of Mitsubishi electronics in my car. My ECU even has a Mitsubishi logo on it. Lots of similarities but I would watch your videos even if there weren't.
'ever looked around under the hood of a Skyline? :P
Actually no I have not. Is it similar to the 4G63?
***** No, totally different. But all the charge pipes, air regulation and sensors are emblazoned with Mitsubishi logos. At least they asked the pro's to help them engineer it. ;P
Aww man i have been waiting for a video from you.. well seems like FOREVER Jafro. I always miss your videos. I almost kinda wish you uploaded on a day basis an just cut the videos into shorter version. That way you wouldnt have to fast foward your whole video! And could spend some time talking about what your doing. Its sometimes hard to follow you an all of that knowledge of yours. :( But regardless still love your videos! keep it up. I wish you were here to help me out on my Supra build. I have so many question, yet not many people know.
congrats on finally getting the clearances to work for ya!
excellent video jafro, keep up the awesome work!
I'm so glade see this can't wait see you going down track o how I can't wait
God I love this work so much
13:00 Spoiler alert, at this point, I was just dying with anticipation. That last valve clearance to be measured, if success then the engine is a go!
These are awesome videos, great job.
great video as usual! thanks for all the great information!
So your garage is proof that all turbos and exhaust manifolds go to heaven. So many turbos! Can't wait! See ya in a month!
Soooo many options... I'll go ahead and open the other can. Let this marinate...
Anyone care to guess what the hot side's going to be? Used parts... remember.
***** I can't think of a good guess. I vaguely recall that you were disappointed in a shinier exhaust manifold a while back, and replaced it with pipes that had a lot less surface glint but worked better. Shiny is good, but I'm OK with rough surfaces on the side that has the fires of Mount Doom pouring through every 4th stroke. Heat just does that to metal unless you do some really expensive things to it.
Speaking of Mount Doom and exhaust manifolds, I wonder if a material exists that: 1) could be painted on the side of metals and not fall off easily, 2) pretty much matches the color of the metal at room temperature, and 3) glows via incandescence when heated well above room temperatures. The result would be the ability to put lettering on your exhaust pipes that is only visible when the pipes are hot. I'd make the lettering in Tengwar, the same font used for the writing that's only visible when The One Ring is heated. I'd probably write: "If you can read this, get a life", but maybe someone can think of something better. It would be a good joke on those who don't notice the lettering until they happen to see the engine when it's hot.
"Three rings for the... something piston something..." Nah.
"One stroke to drive it all, and in the gearbox grind them." Nah.
Anyway, if incandescent materials don't work out, maybe it could be done with LED lighting. Hmm. Well, it would be fun to add something like that when I finally rebuild my '91 Eclipse. The glowing lights project shouldn't take long, because, you know, it's only... while I'm in there.
Hahah! You're killing me!
Epic. You sir just won at the internet.
I think your becoming good at this.
DIY flycuts are the way to go, you should totally make a jig for them out of a junk head!
I almost put your comment in the edits. ALMOST! lol. Don't think I didn't read it. If it didn't interfere with the subtitles, and didn't have a link in it, it would be there because you're right. They're the way to go. I'm glad I had the 1st cut so evenly milled because it made my easy finishing cuts more uniform. I really liked the yoshifab unit. I facepalmed for not thinking of it first, then did the Edvard Munch scream face while realizing they should never have gone to the shop in the first place. Then reality took hold reminding me I don't have a junk 4g63 head.
I have a friend with a 5-axis CNC at work, though. Might call for a gub'mint job.
***** I'v got a junk head, want a 1/4 ?
This is an incredible show of dedication, and you say it's for a winter beater?! I can't wait to see you fire this thing up for the first time. Do you ever get out to car shows BTW?
I use modeling clay on the piston to determine the cut/clearance and shape needed. I give the piston with the modeling clay to the machinist and it gets cut according the shape left by the valve.
I was going to use a clay bar. Just like modeling clay, its texture and consistency feels perfect for this. I hope I never have to do this again, though... This was an exercise in making out-of-spec factory parts from 3 different engines work together, lol! Using them for a completely different purpose than they were designed for. I plan on buying the right parts that fit from now on!
another great vid jafro thanks
Awesome. Your videos always brighten my day. So I ran the fiesta at the track. 15.2 was best e.t. at 88 mph. Worst time was a 16.2 at 95 mph. As an experienced drag racer can you explain how my best time was my worst mph?
Yes I can. It's because you got a better 60' time. You got that thing moving faster out the hole. If you take one tenth off your 60' time, it takes .2 off your total ET. Whenever you do this, you end up with a lower mph. A slower launch = faster MPH. You will be able to do that math and confirm this. One tenth off the 60' = two tenths off the ET. That's why races are won or lost on a hole shot. ;)
***** huh that makes perfect sense. The one time I didn't spin is the fastest time. It was a non sticky day and launch was tough. Good time though, got to make six passes.
awesome job buddy
you should turn the engine over a few times before the final torque seqence for the cam caps, what flips me out , is these days the cam shafts run without bearings, just and oil feed hole and if you got anything hard in there it grinds up the saddle for the cam, ive heard of offset line boring the cam tunnels, as a repair but wouldnt babbit bearings save alot of heads that would other wise end up in the scrap yard?
Wouldn't you have to re-weigh each piston after the fly-cuts, or is it too little of material removed to make a difference? I love your videos, very entertaining and informative!
The ones the machine shop cut look huge, but they didn't even add .3ml to my dish volume. A gram of steel is the same amount of material used to make a paper clip. The pistons are a cast aluminum alloy, and I only had to put a nick in each side. I didn't have to cut them deeper. I put a lot of thought into that one and I knew someone would ask. Technically, yes, you should... and it's true I removed too little and too evenly to make a difference in their overall weight... but it's the Hyundai. It was as much as 4 grams out before I balanced them. It's still a huge improvement, but I just couldn't justify the time, effort and waste of mineral spirits just to confirm I didn't hurt it. I'm sure they're all still within 1 gram.
Pat yourself on the back. You asked the right question. The one I was self-conscious about in my production, but too lazy to do anything about. ;) There I go contradicting the point of my video. xD
Perfect, thank you for the fast response and keep up the awesome videos.
Thanks man, love what you been following for a while now, 1st comment ever. I still dont fully understand the need for 1lb test springs. Any chance you explained it and I missed it? Im currently in the same process.
Well the 1lb spring allows you to easily remove and install the rocker arms and set zero-lash if that's something you have to do on your engine. I found that one of my test lifters worked better than the other, so being able to do that also allowed me to move my good test lifter to the next valve along with the dial gauge, etc... They turned out to be enormously convenient and I think I learned my lesson. Next time I run into a problem child like this, I'm going to buy 16 of the d*mn things, install them all at once, dye mark the pistons and only have to install/remove the head twice. 1lb vs. 100lbs x 16 valves works out much better while you're hand-turning the crank as well. :D Test springs. $2.35 for two. It's worth the $20 to buy all 16.
GOOD QUESTION!
you should have your own line of coffee filters...with your picture on the box.....i would definitely buy them.
By gum, you've got it! I'm going to be rich! That's so appropriate considering how much people need to follow the pace of my videos.
genius
Great video. That is really high compression. What kind of boost will this car see? Also when is the 2g coming back to life? I been waiting a long time. I check for updates.But nothing on it for some time. Please put the 2g back on the road. I wanna see its revenge on the track.
time well spent ... i love it
Awesome video
In how degree was the both camshaft in finialy assembly? From factory spect
I've been waiting
Every morning This guy scales exactly 7.2 grams of sugar to add to his 236.58 ML of coffee . Outstanding assembly principles .
His sense of humor is the cherry on top! LMAO!!
What can you say, you are the man
How could I possibly be... when it is YOU who is the man?
Jafro, was wondering what you think about the mitsu mls head gasket in comparison to a perma torque or other composite gasket. I'm sure the mls has a benefit dealing with knock but requires very specific block surface???
Very nice video from talented person!
i just want to mention that i really hate engines that have timing belt driven water pumps... otherwise everything sounds good :)
It feels really good to get off of work and watch your videos. How many hours you rack up on this one? I know just gapping my rings on my car took quite some time. lol. This had to be like a 16hr gig.
+Robert Ballard You are asking questions with replies disabled. How are you going to know that I replied? A: You won't.
There's a large metal disc that goes between the crank gear and a the front case, behind the balancer belt gear, and it has a notch in it that lines up with a pointer cast into the front case.
Meticulous job as always. So when are you going to start a 2.1 destroker build?lol J/k
You have a lot of patience sir; get it right and not worry about it again. .
I didn't see you cc the head or the piston/block and do the math for the compressed value of the head gasket 21:07... how do you know what your compression ratio is?
I'm surprised you didn't see it? There's a video here called "calculate your compression ratio" where I do all of that. :)
Watched it today... nice work.
nice videos! Learning all i can to build my own engine. I have a question, do you have to check valve clearance with not to agressive cams like and stock valves?? the stock valve will fit in stock piston cut? thanks for you videos.
Regarding valve clearance, stock parts tend to offer more forgiveness. It's when blocks and cylinder heads get resurfaced, pistons, rods or crankshafts get replaced, or you install bigger valves and aftermarket cams that you would want to pay close attention to this. As long as the cylinder head and block are not resurfaced beyond specification and everything else is OE stock equipment, then you should be safe.
In my case, the pistons, cylinder head, camshafts and valves all came from 4 completely different model cars. They should have never been used together in the same car, but we massaged them all in there. That's why this engine needed all of this extra time and effort.
Hi jafro quick question if you get a minute, I'm going for just stock rebuild on my 97 GSX, it has a 6 bolt swap and I'm getting ready to install my timing belt. I understand the timing marks on the cam gears but how do you know where to put the belt on the crank gear? My balance shafts are eliminated so I know I don't have to line up the oil pump. Thanks! :)
At GM they used molybond for high performance, safe for seating on dyno + GM head stud glue on everything
just did a comp test after replacing a head gasket and I have 2 @125 psi and 2 @ 230psi..Is 230 acceptable for a santa fe 2.4 engine? the low ones point to leaking valves so off it comes again
Did you weigh the pistons after removing material to make sure they are balanced?
wow, that is such so much work!
you sir are a professional.
With that said. Just wondering if any of those spare turbo manifolds and 16g's are fore sale.... Just wondering. And keep up the good work. Lots of great things I have learned watching these videos through out the last 3 years. Thumbs up....
Jeremy Head 1 you wouldn't want, 1's being used for the Hyundai, 1's likely headed for the Galant, 1's migrating to another project car that has not yet been introduced to the channel. That car doesn't live here. Nobody's seen it yet. Jafro will not be the mechanic, but I'm fairly certain it will make an appearance. There are 2 project cars actually. Can't wait to introduce you to Le Roi.
Ohhh. Well I figured it doesn't hurt to ask. Can't wait until those new videos including the new introduction.
I can't either. The Hyundai's going to need something to race that I can put more cameras in.
Парень, вот ты внатуре красавчик!
Nice to see that head being torqued down I bet you a relieved!, With ARP's on the hyundai does that mean L19's or H11's on the gsx build? haha.
Hows the ribs hope they are coming right, almost time for some runs at the track.
kbcustomz MAYBE! :O
Ribs are at about 60% now. 2 months later. It's really helping my production to have them stuck back together instead of floating around in my giblets. I don't recommend this sort of injury to anyone.
***** good to hear.
Amazing like usual look forward for first start up amd see vids of th Lanta smashing hondas lol
Jafro it is i ; again. I concluded or at the very least i have a theory, that i bent all my valves due to not degreeing, and setting my cam gears at zero. Using your doctrine I will get it right. But here is my question, won't I just rebend my valves as soon as I spin the crank with the belt on as I take my readings what can I do yo ensure I won't make contact (piston to valves) as I rotate the engine, which is necessary to actually prevent those parts from making contact. Thanks in advanced and apologies for complicating the subject.
6bolt(4g63) bc272's
Gaucho Panocha Thank you for your complete and well-articulated post. So often I have to guess these variables. The BC cams offer more lift over stock, so it's critical to do the valve clearance tests. In the event that you hand-crank the engine, bending valves is far less likely turning it by hand prior to installing the engine in the car than if you install it, hit the key, and crank it over. Turning it slowly by hand gives you the opportunity to feel the piston and valve contact should it occur. There are several reasons why it can occur turning it by hand. One being hydraulic pressure in the lifters, and the other being incorrect valve timing. When you install your lifters, they should all be bled completely down so that all 16 are squishy. If they're pumped up, there's a huge risk of bending valves because they can hold the valves open. Until hydraulic lifters are pressurized, maximum lift can not be achieved... not unless the lifters were *not* bled down when they were installed. If they were not, then it's possible that even more lift than the cams can generate were applied to the valves, as the inflated lifter will actually hold the valves open when they should be closed. This makes piston/valve contact inevitable. This is a real and prevalent issue on a 4g63 as the block is a zero-deck block (meaning the pistons and deck are flat when the pistons are at the top of the stroke).
These variables regarding hydraulic lifters are why you have to use a solid lifter adjusted for zero-lash when you do your valve timing and clearance tests. It creates static lift. Hydraulic valvetrains create dynamic lift based on oil pressure.
Turning the engine over by hand should permit you to feel contact with the valves/pistons and give you a chance to stop, break it down, and fix the problem. If you rely on the key and the starter, you miss this quality control step. You should never have to forcibly turn the engine. Do this with the spark plugs removed so that it's easier to turn.
But here's the kicker... the .100" exhaust valve clearance and .080" intake valve clearance values are there to compensate for valve lash and thermal expansion that only occur under normal engine operation. You can have inadequate valve clearance on deflated lifters and experience ZERO interference problems on the engine stand... but bend all 16 valves the moment you fire it up if you have less than those clearance values. That means until the engine fires and your lifters blow up, and until it gets warm enough to cause thermal expansion, you won't notice problems with valve clearance. Once the engine is hot, they may touch down. If you do your test and find .080" on the exhaust like I did with the cams lined up correctly, it's not enough clearance to avoid this... but turning it by hand reveals no problems. This is why you HAVE TO check clearance when you change cams or gears.
It's a hard lesson to learn when you have to learn it twice. Mechanics who learned it the hard way are half as dangerous as the ones who always got it right the first time. Hope this puts the confidence back to take that exam again. ;)
Unsurprisingly it did, I was confident you would be able to put focus on the perspective, like always I am grateful to you and all of your work. You are a great asset to those of us who follow in your steps, thanks again and when the time comes I would like to shoot you a link with my steps documented influenced by your lectures.-thumbs up"
hey I've been watching a lot of your videos lately as I'm about to take on my own build. one I wanted to say you do amazing work and I'll be applying a lot of what your teaching on my build. however I'm not building a 4g63 I'm actually building a 2.3 sohc ford turbo motor, when it comes to cam timing and valve clearance will a adjustable cam gear be needed?
Only if you can't get the cam timing events within a degree of spec. Count the number of teeth on the cam gear and divide 360 by that number. Multiply the result by 2. That's how many degrees moving the belt (or chain) a whole tooth will offer. If you can't hit the value by moving it a tooth, and it's off when it's lined up, then you need the adjustable gear.
+Jafromobile alright sweet thanks for the tip
When the engine gets hot, all those metal parts will expand. Is just enough clearance at room temp. going to be to little?
Nah, that's exactly what the .100" exhaust clearance is for. It's the amount NEEDED for thermal expansion, valve deflection, belt deflection, etc... ;)
You should ditch all of those rubber IC pipes get a front mount and 16G. Should easily get into the 12s. I see you own a VR4 and GSX what's all done to them? I've owned a lot of Supras and have gotten into Subarus. I now have a Legacy GT which I plan on either doing a STI swap or maybe a 2jzgte rwd set up along with my current 2jzgte/Mk3. Always liked DSMs and built a few for friends and customers.
What are you oiling the rocker arms and cams with (like brand specific, I understand it's some type of assembly lube).
Ryan Villeneuve Royal Purple Max-Tuff Assembly Lube #01335.
great video like all the rest. i have a question tho. i currently own a 97 mustang and love it but way to many problems and ive always wanted a 4g63 to call my own fortunately i dont have the money to buy an evo and an eclipse is to old (i need a reliable daily that i can wrench on) so i was thinking i might get a lancer and put a 7 bolt in it even tho everyone says it would cost more than buying an evo (lancer $4000 vs evo $20k+)(i dont think it will cost me $15000...) plus i love a challenge what do you think?
It think it will take a whole lot more effort. The further you deviate from the platform, the harder you will work building it back into it. For instance... My Colt is taking entirely too long to finish. It's because of 4 projects, but it's an awful lot of work to make it AWD. If you have no aversion to hard work and spending lots of time, then you earned your fat pockets. I think it would be awesome, and you'd be a pioneer.
Shouldn't you have installed the head studs at some point prior to the final assembly when having the block honed/setting the piston to wall clearances with a torque plate? Not bashing, just curious. I've learned a tremendous amount from watching your videos and you put out some of the best engine building videos on youtube!
All that was done with the stock head bolts. I decided at the last minute to use the head studs because I didn't realize that I had an extra set available. :)
Astute attention to detail here.
Also..........holy shit look at the amount of spare parts......wow.
Thank you! It's not even 1/4 of it.
good friend, I have a mitsubishi 1.6 16v 4G61 engine. is the torque of the screws the same as this?
buen trabajo excelente jafro gracias por el video.
is that your old ebay 20g in the parts pile? How'd that thing end up working for you in the long run?