18 inch on center means that the distance between the center of one joist to the next is 18 inches. This results in a 16 inch gap between the joists. The structural engineers are the ones that specifies the joist distances and this is how they specify them. Most people only focus on the gap, which for the most part is around 16 inches.
@@dairconditioning6030 So the gap or space between the two joists is 16" but it stakes on video the unit is 16"& 11/16. So it won't fit unless you cut out some of the joist is that correct?
@@2ndfootincoldwater In some cases you can do blocking on the side to increase the inner gap. If this doesn't create enough space then you will need to shave off some of the wood. Be sure to check that your joists are not structural before you do this.
Yep! Standard joists are 16" on center (14.5" gap between joists). EZ-FIT product literature says it will work with standard 16oc joists. Not sure where 18 comes from
I have 2 of the 9kBTU ceiling units as part of a 4 head 42kBtu multizone system. One is in a 14×15 bedroom and the other is in a 12×15 with an attached 7×7 bathroom. I’d say there hasn’t been any mold issue and they generally keep the spaces at the temperatures my kids want. Which in the case of my son is around 76° in the winter and 69° during the summer, which doesn’t stress the unit. I also have a 12kBTU unit in my wife’s open space office and that sorta works ok although all the heat in the house ends up in that space, because it’s on the second floor next to an atrium. So it has to work hard during the summer. Could have bumped the power up there, but she hasn’t complained.
If working on a 2 foot center joist I still prefer the standard cassette as they use a radial fan which is not only quieter but by its very design never needs cleaning.
I put these in the upstairs bedrooms. I think it’d be nice if they sold a 6 kBTU version instead of the current smallest: 9. Also, Mitsubishi should really up there game when it comes to integrating into home automation.
@@generallyhelpfulsoftware646 : what was the sqft of the bedroom? I have a guest bedroom of 100sqft, based on my calculation even the 6k seems to be too big. How is the 9k working for you?
In general, I like these, they are less obtrusive than traditional wall mounted units and are mostly quiet. The temperature on the remote has little to do with the room temperature. My son says it makes a distracting noise at night. We had an issue where in heating mode, my son’s room got up to 90° but putting it in auto mode seems to help.
A lot of the time there are two temp reading sensor settings in these types of units. One is on the cassette unit itself and the other is in the remote. In the case of the remote sensor, you typically have to explicitly tell the unit to use the remote's sensor instead of the unit's sensor.
Thanks for the information. What is the best location when the ceiling cassette should be installed to cover living room and kitchen at the same time when the living room and Kitchen located as 90 degree floor plan?
We have this unit but have had trouble with ceiling leaks when our trays fill up and the pump fails to drain. I have heard there is a part we can get to add to the units so that the system will shut off but we have been unable to find exactly where or where to get this. Our contractor has been no help. Do you have any ideas?
Geez, they still haven't changed those remotes. Mine have yellowed after just 3 years, and they aren't backlit. Hopefully these are at least backlit, because the LCD itself was quite poor.
Hello, I'm installing this in an ADU that has a slanted roof. We've created a box so that the unit can sit flat but I'm wondering how close to the ceiling can this unit be mounted? I don't want that box to have to flare down too much. Is it possible to put this right up against the ceiling?
It does fit, they screwed up all the numbers in the video. They should correct it or take the video down and stop confusing people with misinformation.
@@AA-zq1sx I guess that speaks volumes about their quality control doesn't it? As well as their customer care. Also, D Air insisting on 18" oc spacing is not just a typo, it shows a complete lack of knowledge about construction. Why would anyone trust them for HVAC?
I’ve been in home construction and HVAC a long time. I ain’t never heard of 18” centered joists. 16” Centers (14 1/2”) gap is the standard. This 18” has to be wrong. The engineers at Mitsubishi can’t be this incompetent.
I noticed that the narrations mentions 18" but the text on the screen says 16". I'm sure the narrator is a hired voice and just didn't know the difference.
Common joist in the US are NOT 18" on center, they are 16" on center
18 inch on center means that the distance between the center of one joist to the next is 18 inches. This results in a 16 inch gap between the joists. The structural engineers are the ones that specifies the joist distances and this is how they specify them. Most people only focus on the gap, which for the most part is around 16 inches.
@@dairconditioning6030 So the gap or space between the two joists is 16" but it stakes on video the unit is 16"& 11/16. So it won't fit unless you cut out some of the joist is that correct?
@@2ndfootincoldwater In some cases you can do blocking on the side to increase the inner gap. If this doesn't create enough space then you will need to shave off some of the wood. Be sure to check that your joists are not structural before you do this.
Yep! Standard joists are 16" on center (14.5" gap between joists). EZ-FIT product literature says it will work with standard 16oc joists. Not sure where 18 comes from
@@786otto You are correct Joist width are 16 inches not 18 inches. It's our mistake.
I have 2 of the 9kBTU ceiling units as part of a 4 head 42kBtu multizone system. One is in a 14×15 bedroom and the other is in a 12×15 with an attached 7×7 bathroom. I’d say there hasn’t been any mold issue and they generally keep the spaces at the temperatures my kids want. Which in the case of my son is around 76° in the winter and 69° during the summer, which doesn’t stress the unit.
I also have a 12kBTU unit in my wife’s open space office and that sorta works ok although all the heat in the house ends up in that space, because it’s on the second floor next to an atrium. So it has to work hard during the summer. Could have bumped the power up there, but she hasn’t complained.
If working on a 2 foot center joist I still prefer the standard cassette as they use a radial fan which is not only quieter but by its very design never needs cleaning.
I put these in the upstairs bedrooms. I think it’d be nice if they sold a 6 kBTU version instead of the current smallest: 9. Also, Mitsubishi should really up there game when it comes to integrating into home automation.
They sell a 6 kBTU model now.
but it's more expensive than 9kBTU... WHAT?!?! have it make sense
@@krb365 well it’s slightly more expensive. That is weird. I’d still prefer not to over cool a small room. Tends to get water condensation and mold.
@@generallyhelpfulsoftware646 : what was the sqft of the bedroom? I have a guest bedroom of 100sqft, based on my calculation even the 6k seems to be too big. How is the 9k working for you?
In general, I like these, they are less obtrusive than traditional wall mounted units and are mostly quiet.
The temperature on the remote has little to do with the room temperature. My son says it makes a distracting noise at night. We had an issue where in heating mode, my son’s room got up to 90° but putting it in auto mode seems to help.
A lot of the time there are two temp reading sensor settings in these types of units. One is on the cassette unit itself and the other is in the remote. In the case of the remote sensor, you typically have to explicitly tell the unit to use the remote's sensor instead of the unit's sensor.
Thanks for the information. What is the best location when the ceiling cassette should be installed to cover living room and kitchen at the same time when the living room and Kitchen located as 90 degree floor plan?
Would these work between floors or only on the top floor?
Is there ever an issue with mold growing on the inside of the unit?
We have this unit but have had trouble with ceiling leaks when our trays fill up and the pump fails to drain. I have heard there is a part we can get to add to the units so that the system will shut off but we have been unable to find exactly where or where to get this. Our contractor has been no help. Do you have any ideas?
Geez, they still haven't changed those remotes. Mine have yellowed after just 3 years, and they aren't backlit. Hopefully these are at least backlit, because the LCD itself was quite poor.
This is the only other option I have ever seen other then the One and only
first company air handlers.
Hello,
I'm installing this in an ADU that has a slanted roof. We've created a box so that the unit can sit flat but I'm wondering how close to the ceiling can this unit be mounted? I don't want that box to have to flare down too much. Is it possible to put this right up against the ceiling?
This unit should be hanged flushed to the ceiling. It has to be hang flat since there is a water drain. You cannot hang these units on a slant.
would it be a big deal to install this in a ceiling that is a gable? so it would be at an angle?
You can’t install these at an angle.
No one has 18” joists. 16” c-c.
Turcotte Green
Are these available in Canada?
Yes, they should be available in Canada. You can go to the Mitsubishi website and they will help you locate an installer.
Can I have a Ceiling Cassette replace an wall mount? It's a literal eye sore.
Joist 18 inches on center? cassette 16 11/16 it will not fit in any celling !!
It does fit, they screwed up all the numbers in the video. They should correct it or take the video down and stop confusing people with misinformation.
@@AA-zq1sx Agree.
@@786otto The actual unit is just a bit over 14" wide and 43" long, the cover that goes over the hole on the sheetrock side is closer to 17" x 48"
@@AA-zq1sx I guess that speaks volumes about their quality control doesn't it? As well as their customer care. Also, D Air insisting on 18" oc spacing is not just a typo, it shows a complete lack of knowledge about construction. Why would anyone trust them for HVAC?
I got a 100 yr old house with 14 1/2 inch rafters so that counts me out on this!
I’ve been in home construction and HVAC a long time. I ain’t never heard of 18” centered joists. 16”
Centers (14 1/2”) gap is the standard. This 18” has to be wrong. The engineers at Mitsubishi can’t be this incompetent.
I noticed that the narrations mentions 18" but the text on the screen says 16". I'm sure the narrator is a hired voice and just didn't know the difference.
Why did he say 18 inches on center?