Hey those are great bars mate well done I enjoyed watching you make them. Through trial and error I have made quite a few bars out of natural Australian silver nuggets. The natural lustre that you get from the pouring process looks mighty fine!!
Myles, the silver comes from scrap sterling and 925 silver jewelry and silver flatware that we get at yard sales and thrift stores. It is first incinerated to redness, then dissolved in dilute nitric acid. Then filtered to remove solids (that include gold and platinum). The filtered liquid has clean copper introduced and the silver in the liquid comes out of solution while the copper goes into solution. The silver powder is collected, rinsed, melted and then put in the electrolytic silver cell.
You are absolutely right here. If I try to pour the bars using just the oxy/acet torch, then I get bubbles on the surface of the bar. These bubbles are O2 that was absorbed by the molten silver from the torch. As the molten silver cools it rejects the O2 as bubbles. Molten silver readily absorbs (but does not dissolve) O2. But then it spits it back out as the molten silver solidifies. If the O2 combined chemically rather than physically, then I would get silver oxide - but this don't happen.
Kevin, I just wanna say thanks for making this video, because of it, I now have a fun hobby that I enjoy, instead of "something I'd like to do, someday..." I went from being scared of the oxy/acety to now knowing what I'm doing. Although I do need a little insight from you on a few things, I'll contact you later in the week. Thanks again!
These bars are beautiful.They are as nice as any other out there.You really need to go through that whole recogndition/registration thing.I know it is a pain in the hiney but you will never have to sell under spot again.Growing your own crystals is pretty darn neat and it sits you in a different class.Very nice/beautiful work and I shall subscribe.Well done and a keep on doin what your doin.Pour on!
Since you pointed this out, I think it would be a good idea to direct the flame of the MAPP gas torch onto the melt dish rather than just having it point up in the air (like in the video). This would keep the heat up on the silver and prevent any O2 from getting into the silver. Thank you for this important observation, I will change my method as stated above from this day going forward.
Glad to help. The bubbles you are describing are more than likely a result of gas porosity which is cause by overheating the metal. Keep in mind that acetylene is VERY hot and also very sooty. When melting silver it is easy to boil the metal and wind up with gas bubbles. In my opinion the acetylene torch is too hot for melting unless you really regulate yourself and watch carefully. I only use Mapp for both gold and silver as propane and oxygen are a waste of money. Great job and take care. :)
Hello: the only treatment I perform on the mold is to pre-heat it. It is a graphite mold purchased off Ebay for about $80. It has slightly tapered sides so the ingot drops right out when turned over. I had heard that "smoking" the inside of the mold will produce a better looking bar. To smoke the mold, one should use the soot of a flame with only acetylene burning (no or very little oxygen). by directing this type of flame to the inside of the mold, it will become coated with black soot.
I can see that your torch is using less oxygen and more acetylene than what I have been using. I can also tell by the color of the flame, now that you mention that. I really hope this is the answer. I'm sure that practice makes perfect. Thank you for the advice, and I will give it a try. I'll keep you posted. I have watched this video several times and appreciate your rapid response. Thanks again!
Excellent video right there mate. I have made a lot of bars myself through trial and error but I got a little bored with it and now I am ready to have another another go at it. I make my bars with natural silver nuggets and pieces of silver from mines that I have worked at in Western Australia. Got some good tips from your video and will have a try at doing the same thing peace mate
Excellent video, nicely shot. Nice procedure, too. Can't think of any improvement. I notice you pull the complete oxy-acet (or is it oxy-propane?) torch away, rather than turning off one gas, then the other gas. IMO that is important, as if you were squirting the molten Ag with oxygen, it would suck up the oxygen big time, and if you shut off the oxy first, the silver would ignite the fuel gas, perhaps w/a small explosion or pop. Nice procedure! And of course, beautiful bars!
true and you should recalibrate regular if you use your scales regular. You also have issues with temperature, this does change the reading and seeing as your using yours to weight precious metals, it will serve you to operate within the specs of the scales as well as change the batteries regular, thats another factor in accuracy. I learned allot in my short period selling scales online, people often fail to understand the importance of following instructions or having something as simple
With silver refining, I don't see any way to get around using an acid (either nitric or sulfuric) to dissolve the silver. There is a method called the "karo syrup" method to recover the silver. The chemicals: hydrochloric acid (Lowes -$8 per gal) Red Devil lye (Ace Hardware -$4) and regular sugar ($4 at the grocery). Silver chloride is precipitated with the hydrochloric, the silver chloride is conv. to silver oxide with Lye, then conv. to nearly pure silver metal with the sugar. Wash & dry.
You have some of the nicest pours I have seen. I use an Oxy/Acetylene torch, with a Mapp torch, yet still get bubbles and lousy pours. Can you give any suggestions? Using .999 Au and Ag, graphite molds (preheating molds to 600+ degrees F). I have refined my own silver and gold, validated purities, yet my pours suck. Are you using any kind of flux in the crucible or mold?
The technique I use is in this video. I don't think I can explain it better than watching the video. I do not flux the graphite mold. I do preheat the mold real good. I heat the brand new melt dish, then sprinkle borax on as I heat and melt the borax on the dish. Try reducing the flame to no sound, then do the melt. Keep the flame rich, adjust the O2 down a little and increase the amount of Acet. Molten silver absorbs O2, then releases it upon cooling creating bubbles.
Thanks for the step-by-step on this excellent vid - it's amazing how great those bars look straight from the pour. Where can these bars of your be purchased online?
You can refine 9kt gold to 4 nines (99.99%) purity, but not with the process shown in this video. Please see my other video entitled "Gold Refining Complete Process for the Home Refiner". In that video I demonstrate the basics of refining karat gold to 99.9% pure gold.
Hello, Im new to this and have been asking around for some tips. I have a ceramic crucible and 2 mapp gas torches and a graphite mold. I used the same technique you did (except with mapp) with 2 ounces of .999 silver shot I cannot get the silver to stay molten throughout the entire crucible. I was told to use borax and all that did was turned the silver solid and made it stick tight in the crucible and I cannot get it out. Any tips? Thank you!
as a check weight. Relying on a penny is not advised especially when the weight can vary from 2.8g through to 3.8g (in the UK) not sure about the US but banking scales have a special algorithm that works out a bag of change weight and is not often wrong. Hope you found this information useful, it pays to be vigilant and especially where being 1g out can be costing you profit.
In case anyone is wondering, in the UK, 8 x 1p coins should be not less than 28g and not more than 29g. Weighing 100 coins one at a time will show that the weight does vary allot and you can't take it at face value that all penny coins weigh 3.5g in the UK. You may want to experiment yourselves.
I demonstrated this to a friend, I have some digital scale, if I get chance at some point, will demonstrate this. I used to buy specialist and novelty scales like AWS matchbox scales, the best scales are tanita whose accuracy and precision is emulated by copyists. You can tell a real tanita scale from a fake because the weigh plate / pan can be removed and snapped back in to place. On fakes, it destroys the sensor. BTW, thats meant to be deviations! All scales regardless of accuracy suffer this
I would love to start a hobby like this, my only concern would be the cancerous chemicals used, is there an eco or safer way to do all this without harsh chemicals?
I pretreat my dish with borax. The glass is usually borax glass. Over heating the crucible will cause it to melt - careful application of the heat will avoid this - in my experience. I usually only pour about 5 or 6 bars, then retire the crucible - use it for inquarting gold.
This is my favorite video. But, those plastic cups do not like heat, I quckly switched to metal cups after some heat got away and caused the cup to melt and let some powder escape.
Please take note. Digital Scales whilst very accurate at measuring have an Achilles heel. Micro movements & divinations in the measuring can cause your reading to be off by allot, when measuring your advised to lift the cup off the plate and then place it back on again to get a true reading. It is possible to add small amounts that it doesn't register at all, so you could add 1g of any substance to a scale and it not register. Simply verifying weights by lifting and replacing the cup is advised.
Have you tried that silver removal process where they used salt water and a battery charger? What did you think and what else would you have to do to refine it to sterling... if you’d do a show I’d greatly be appreciated... you’re kinda the only one on here I trust when it comes to this stuff
Hi I'm starting I take old tvs and metals and any electronics or anything I find on road garbage ect. If j get silver and gold out of electronics how would I get TiVo the mother board and how can I tell how fine the silver o gold is? Like how will ik if if is .9995 or ect when I melt it and mold it and is it possible to only use a propane tank like your yellow one to melt down the gold and silver ? Please help trying to make a little extra money
problem whether its a cheap $20 or expensive $500 scale. Lifting the weighing cup and replacing it will give a true reading. Why this happens is the programming, these devices sense vibrations and ignore them, so a small adjustment in weight could easily be ignored as a micro movement, the other thing to note is that you should always weigh in the center of the pan and also randomly check weigh with a couple of check weights that have been approved by weights and measures. You do get drift from
gold can be brought to high reflectivity by heating to sub red heat and dropping item in concentrated sulfuric (extra nasty) acid. Rinse repeatedly with water. Read this somewhere online.
The reason I feel that you were boiling the metal is because as I watched you switch torches, the metal in the crucible stayed liquid after a 4 second switch to the map torch. When you remove the torch from a properly melted crucible of silver the silver should harden right away and require a few seconds to recover its previous liquid state after bringing the torch back on to the melt. It looks like you are overheating your melt with that acetylene.
@tdubb505 Most silver you can purify by heating it to 2100 degrees. Extracting the other 10% is near impossible, (or at least to me) but purifying the 90% to 99.9% is pretty easy.
where do you get the tools for stamping the letters and numbers. Also how can I efficiently extract pure silver from silver ore. can I crush it and use mercury then burn off. I have seen that done with gold flakes,dust but not ore. its pretty rich but I know it probably has lead in it.
+Krupp88 Metal You can get the stamps on eBay; www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Letter-Alphabet-Stamps-1-16-Jewelry-Making-Set-/121481325814?hash=item1c48d9ecf6:g:oXAAAOxyfuZR1HWH I've never processed silver ore so I have no xperience with that. I only use sterling silver that my wife finds at yard sales and thrift stores. She gets it for pennies. Without her I would have to work at a real job punching a time clock somewhere.
Hello, I sell a little of the crystal and some poured bars on eBay. My user name there is "bafelous". The largest bar I make is 10 Troy ounces. I have one listed there now.
The silver is melted in a silica melt dish. I'm using an oxygen and acetylene cutting torch to do the melting. I keep the flame way down low because silver has a low melting temperature. Too much heat could cause the silver to boil in the melt dish.
I have a problem when melting silver. I have two torches, (propan cans) i use one to blow under the crucible, and the other on top. The silver melts just fine, but i hardt got time to pour before it hardens. What can one do? Just pour faster? I Heat the mold.
pkbjorn35 hello, I can melt 5 troy ounces of pure silver with MAP gas but it takes 10 to 12 minutes, and that's if you insulate the dish well with ceramic wool. An oxy/acetylene torch, with a cutting head and flame set to no-noise, will do the job in about 2 minutes.
Good stuff my friend! I have been perfecting the tree ring pattern myself, check out my last vid, came out good. I have a question, my bars are coming out looking great but it would be better if it Didn't have the borax spots on it. Do you glaze your crucible? And if you do how do you keep the borax off of the bar. I have to use my dremel to sand it off and it kinda ruins the original look
PhillySilver999 Hello, I do glaze my melt dish with just enough borax to coat it completely with a fine glaze. To remove the borax from the bars make a dilute sulfuric acid solution of 100ml DISTILLED water and 5 ml concentrated sulfuric acid. Add a little heat to warm the solution and put the bar with spots of borax in the dilute solution. Don't use any higher concentration and only let it soak for as long as it take to dissolve off the borax spots (about 5 minutes). Works like a charm for me. Rooto drain cleaner at Ace Hardware is 98% concentrated sulfuric acid and it works perfect for this.
+Krupp88 Metal I keep borax away from my graphite mold. If borax gets in the mold it will glue the silver bar in. And then it is very difficult to get the bar out without damaging the mold. I do glaze the melt dish with borax before melting the silver in it. I've never used quartz crucibles, but I've calcined palladium salts to palladium sponge metal in a fused quartz dish - with no borax. I'll be doing a demo video on palladium refining that shows the entire process, watch for it soon.
I would check with the folks at Yeagers or some of the others like HiHo and I am sure they will help you along with your journey.Nice stuff there fella.keep at it,pour on.
Kevin, would you please redo this video with sound, I wanna hear what level the mapp torch is at as well as your acetylene/oxy, would you also please tell us how to set up the welding torch; 15lbs oxy/ 5lbs acety etc., Again, it would be super awesome if we could hear these bars being made! :)
Nopehahalolwut Hello, the oxy/acet torch is a cutting head with the flame turned down to make ZERO NOISE. The settings you have are about what I used in this video.
By the term "melting onto the mold," I meant the silver sticking to the mold as it cooled. I know it can happen with certain molds, but I was skeptical about it with graphite molds. Thanks.
javier SR The silver is actually silver crystal produced in my electrolytic silver cell. Pleased watch for a video coming soon that shows exactly how to produce the silver crystal.
sreetips hi, i am thinking on getting in to the bar silver job thing and i got a few questions, one- where do you get the silver beads and for how much, 2- how much dose it cost to turn them in to bars and how long, 3- how much do you make per bar and how high over spot do you sell them for? just want to know before i spend a lot on silver
kkirschkk sreetips hello, I am using 99.999% pure silver Crystal grown in my electrolytic silver cell, not silver shot. I have never calculated the cost to produce one of these bars, but I would guess about 20 or 30 dollars each. I listed 3 of these bars last week (with spot silver at $15.50) and they all sold in a matter of hours for $100 each. But that's only because spot silver is much lower than the actual price of silver right now. You can't find much silver to buy at $15.50
Sreetips, I've been scouring your vids looking for one in particular that people were arguing about silver purity and you chimed in something like "999 silver out of 10,000 atoms, 1 is not and for 9999 out of 100,000 atoms, 1 is not" I did not remember your statement correctly can you please re-state and let me know how to calculate that on my own as well.
One nine is out of every 10 atoms, only one of them is not silver. Thee nines means out of every 1000 atoms, only one of them is not silver (1000 - 1 = 999). Four nines - 9999 - means out of every 10,000 atoms, only one of them is not silver. Five nines - 99999 - means out of every 100,000 atoms, only one of them is not silver.
+Madison Bejemino Hello, I will be listing some pure silver Crystal, 5 Troy ounce bags, on eBay tomorrow. You can get the other items needed on eBay as well. You can use a MAP gas torch from the hardware store to do the melt and pour. MAP gas takes about 10 minutes to melt 5 Troy ounces of pure silver Crystal. Oxy/Acetelyne only takes about three or four minutes because it gets much hotter.
+Tyrone Hogan Hello. I use silver testing solution available from eBay (I make my own by dissolving about 1 gram of potassium dichromate in 20ml dilute nitric acid). To test take a file and cut deep into metal and place a tiny drop of the silver test solution (it is called schwerters solution) where you filed. If it is silver then it will instantly turn red. After a few seconds, dab the site with a paper towel and you will see a bright red spot transfer off onto the paper. If the color is blue green or black, then it is not silver. The reason you file into the metal is because a thick coating of silver plate will turn red and give you a false positive for silver. Hope this helps.
+Tyrone Hogan please see my video entitled "Silver Refining Complete Process for the Amateur Refiner 1of2". In that video I test a piece of silver using a file and the silver test solution. Also, please visit my eBay listings and you will see that I have hundreds of very pleased customers that have bought my silver bars. My user name on eBay is "bafelous".
Love the way silver comes out so very shiny without polishing, it's just natural!!
Have a GREAT Day!!!
Hey those are great bars mate well done I enjoyed watching you make them. Through trial and error I have made quite a few bars out of natural Australian silver nuggets. The natural lustre that you get from the pouring process looks mighty fine!!
Myles, the silver comes from scrap sterling and 925 silver jewelry and silver flatware that we get at yard sales and thrift stores. It is first incinerated to redness, then dissolved in dilute nitric acid. Then filtered to remove solids (that include gold and platinum). The filtered liquid has clean copper introduced and the silver in the liquid comes out of solution while the copper goes into solution. The silver powder is collected, rinsed, melted and then put in the electrolytic silver cell.
You are the most careful I've seen handling molten alloy. Great work!
+Durrpadil thanks, appreciate your kind words.
You are absolutely right here. If I try to pour the bars using just the oxy/acet torch, then I get bubbles on the surface of the bar. These bubbles are O2 that was absorbed by the molten silver from the torch. As the molten silver cools it rejects the O2 as bubbles. Molten silver readily absorbs (but does not dissolve) O2. But then it spits it back out as the molten silver solidifies. If the O2 combined chemically rather than physically, then I would get silver oxide - but this don't happen.
Kevin, I just wanna say thanks for making this video, because of it, I now have a fun hobby that I enjoy, instead of "something I'd like to do, someday..."
I went from being scared of the oxy/acety to now knowing what I'm doing. Although I do need a little insight from you on a few things, I'll contact you later in the week. Thanks again!
These bars are beautiful.They are as nice as any other out there.You really need to go through that whole recogndition/registration thing.I know it is a pain in the hiney but you will never have to sell under spot again.Growing your own crystals is pretty darn neat and it sits you in a different class.Very nice/beautiful work and I shall subscribe.Well done and a keep on doin what your doin.Pour on!
+Dean Lorman Thanks Dean. I did not know that there was a registration process.
Since you pointed this out, I think it would be a good idea to direct the flame of the MAPP gas torch onto the melt dish rather than just having it point up in the air (like in the video). This would keep the heat up on the silver and prevent any O2 from getting into the silver. Thank you for this important observation, I will change my method as stated above from this day going forward.
great pouring man :) 5 fantastic bars of silver :)
Glad to help. The bubbles you are describing are more than likely a result of gas porosity which is cause by overheating the metal. Keep in mind that acetylene is VERY hot and also very sooty. When melting silver it is easy to boil the metal and wind up with gas bubbles. In my opinion the acetylene torch is too hot for melting unless you really regulate yourself and watch carefully. I only use Mapp for both gold and silver as propane and oxygen are a waste of money. Great job and take care. :)
Wonderful to watch your process, beautiful pour lines.
Hello: the only treatment I perform on the mold is to pre-heat it. It is a graphite mold purchased off Ebay for about $80. It has slightly tapered sides so the ingot drops right out when turned over. I had heard that "smoking" the inside of the mold will produce a better looking bar. To smoke the mold, one should use the soot of a flame with only acetylene burning (no or very little oxygen). by directing this type of flame to the inside of the mold, it will become coated with black soot.
Thanks for your kind words
Great job on the pour! I hope to someday be able to do this as well!
I can see that your torch is using less oxygen and more acetylene than what I have been using. I can also tell by the color of the flame, now that you mention that. I really hope this is the answer. I'm sure that practice makes perfect. Thank you for the advice, and I will give it a try. I'll keep you posted. I have watched this video several times and appreciate your rapid response. Thanks again!
excellent work, liked the preheating of the pour grove
Excellent video right there mate. I have made a lot of bars myself through trial and error but I got a little bored with it and now I am ready to have another another go at it. I make my bars with natural silver nuggets and pieces of silver from mines that I have worked at in Western Australia. Got some good tips from your video and will have a try at doing the same thing peace mate
Excellent video, nicely shot. Nice procedure, too. Can't think of any improvement. I notice you pull the complete oxy-acet (or is it oxy-propane?) torch away, rather than turning off one gas, then the other gas. IMO that is important, as if you were squirting the molten Ag with oxygen, it would suck up the oxygen big time, and if you shut off the oxy first, the silver would ignite the fuel gas, perhaps w/a small explosion or pop. Nice procedure! And of course, beautiful bars!
true and you should recalibrate regular if you use your scales regular. You also have issues with temperature, this does change the reading and seeing as your using yours to weight precious metals, it will serve you to operate within the specs of the scales as well as change the batteries regular, thats another factor in accuracy. I learned allot in my short period selling scales online, people often fail to understand the importance of following instructions or having something as simple
This is a really good Video ...Done Like a Pro!
Nicely done.
Very nice! Thanks for sharing this process.
Really nice work!
Very nice. I just use a metal mould and propane torch for 1 oz bars, but this set up looks good.
With silver refining, I don't see any way to get around using an acid (either nitric or sulfuric) to dissolve the silver. There is a method called the "karo syrup" method to recover the silver. The chemicals: hydrochloric acid (Lowes -$8 per gal) Red Devil lye (Ace Hardware -$4) and regular sugar ($4 at the grocery). Silver chloride is precipitated with the hydrochloric, the silver chloride is conv. to silver oxide with Lye, then conv. to nearly pure silver metal with the sugar. Wash & dry.
You have some of the nicest pours I have seen. I use an Oxy/Acetylene torch, with a Mapp torch, yet still get bubbles and lousy pours. Can you give any suggestions? Using .999 Au and Ag, graphite molds (preheating molds to 600+ degrees F). I have refined my own silver and gold, validated purities, yet my pours suck. Are you using any kind of flux in the crucible or mold?
The technique I use is in this video. I don't think I can explain it better than watching the video. I do not flux the graphite mold. I do preheat the mold real good. I heat the brand new melt dish, then sprinkle borax on as I heat and melt the borax on the dish. Try reducing the flame to no sound, then do the melt. Keep the flame rich, adjust the O2 down a little and increase the amount of Acet. Molten silver absorbs O2, then releases it upon cooling creating bubbles.
Thanks for the step-by-step on this excellent vid - it's amazing how great those bars look straight from the pour. Where can these bars of your be purchased online?
Beauties! Love them pour marks.
You can refine 9kt gold to 4 nines (99.99%) purity, but not with the process shown in this video. Please see my other video entitled "Gold Refining Complete Process for the Home Refiner". In that video I demonstrate the basics of refining karat gold to 99.9% pure gold.
Hello, Im new to this and have been asking around for some tips. I have a ceramic crucible and 2 mapp gas torches and a graphite mold. I used the same technique you did (except with mapp) with 2 ounces of .999 silver shot I cannot get the silver to stay molten throughout the entire crucible. I was told to use borax and all that did was turned the silver solid and made it stick tight in the crucible and I cannot get it out. Any tips? Thank you!
Did you use borax/boric acid to keep the silver from melting onto the mold?
Also, would it be a good idea to take a chemistry class or two or is the process simple and straight forward.
Great video
as a check weight. Relying on a penny is not advised especially when the weight can vary from 2.8g through to 3.8g (in the UK) not sure about the US but banking scales have a special algorithm that works out a bag of change weight and is not often wrong.
Hope you found this information useful, it pays to be vigilant and especially where being 1g out can be costing you profit.
In case anyone is wondering, in the UK, 8 x 1p coins should be not less than 28g and not more than 29g. Weighing 100 coins one at a time will show that the weight does vary allot and you can't take it at face value that all penny coins weigh 3.5g in the UK. You may want to experiment yourselves.
I demonstrated this to a friend, I have some digital scale, if I get chance at some point, will demonstrate this. I used to buy specialist and novelty scales like AWS matchbox scales, the best scales are tanita whose accuracy and precision is emulated by copyists. You can tell a real tanita scale from a fake because the weigh plate / pan can be removed and snapped back in to place. On fakes, it destroys the sensor. BTW, thats meant to be deviations! All scales regardless of accuracy suffer this
wow that was amazing - never seen this done before
thanks for sharing
:-)
Hello, thanks for the kind words. Send me a private message and then we can do the transaction for one (or more) of the bars if you are interested.
I would love to start a hobby like this, my only concern would be the cancerous chemicals used, is there an eco or safer way to do all this without harsh chemicals?
doing this same process with 9ct gold. would that refine the gold to 24ct?
How long does it take to consume one MAPP cylinder, given your average refining activity?
Awesome thanks for the video and key info
I pretreat my dish with borax. The glass is usually borax glass. Over heating the crucible will cause it to melt - careful application of the heat will avoid this - in my experience. I usually only pour about 5 or 6 bars, then retire the crucible - use it for inquarting gold.
Same here. Those were beautiful.
Vary cool brother . Thanks for posting
so you say these sillver bits are grown?? how? just wondering..
Any suggestions on where to get the silver? Great vid btw!!!
This is my favorite video. But, those plastic cups do not like heat, I quckly switched to metal cups after some heat got away and caused the cup to melt and let some powder escape.
Feed stock for the bars = yard sales, consignment shops, thrift store, estate sales. The pure silver bars that I make can be bought on eBay.
Please take note. Digital Scales whilst very accurate at measuring have an Achilles heel. Micro movements & divinations in the measuring can cause your reading to be off by allot, when measuring your advised to lift the cup off the plate and then place it back on again to get a true reading. It is possible to add small amounts that it doesn't register at all, so you could add 1g of any substance to a scale and it not register. Simply verifying weights by lifting and replacing the cup is advised.
Have you tried that silver removal process where they used salt water and a battery charger? What did you think and what else would you have to do to refine it to sterling... if you’d do a show I’d greatly be appreciated... you’re kinda the only one on here I trust when it comes to this stuff
I haven’t got to deplating silver yet. But I plan to try something when I get caught up. Thank you
Hi I'm starting I take old tvs and metals and any electronics or anything I find on road garbage ect. If j get silver and gold out of electronics how would I get TiVo the mother board and how can I tell how fine the silver o gold is? Like how will ik if if is .9995 or ect when I melt it and mold it and is it possible to only use a propane tank like your yellow one to melt down the gold and silver ? Please help trying to make a little extra money
There's something about silver that I love. I haven't figured it out yet.
There's something about my wife that I love. I haven't figured it out yet.
Would this work with .999 Fine Silver Casting Grain?
SUPER COOL!!! Or, in this case, HOT! I can't believe my eyes! How much money does it cost you to make each bar?
I love watching videos like this .... Great pour ...!
awsome process vid, thanks for sharing!
What are the materials of the melting dish and the shapes plz ?
Very good. Now send me some of them so I can take a closer look :)
did you put borax in the crucible or no?
Kevin, could you make a video on how to spice the crucible. Do you also re-spice the crucible after many pours?
+Nopehahalolwut - good suggestion, I'll make a video on how to do it as soon as I get time. Thank you.
where do i get a good deal on silver shots
Great video! Can you please explain how you created the crystals?
Free Kick Football Academy Hello, I am working on a video to show how these crystals are made. I'll publish it soon here. Thank you for your interest.
Sreetips can you tell me, how much investment does it take to start a hobby like this?
problem whether its a cheap $20 or expensive $500 scale. Lifting the weighing cup and replacing it will give a true reading. Why this happens is the programming, these devices sense vibrations and ignore them, so a small adjustment in weight could easily be ignored as a micro movement, the other thing to note is that you should always weigh in the center of the pan and also randomly check weigh with a couple of check weights that have been approved by weights and measures. You do get drift from
Came out great!
gold can be brought to high reflectivity by heating to sub red heat and dropping item in concentrated sulfuric (extra nasty) acid. Rinse repeatedly with water. Read this somewhere online.
The reason I feel that you were boiling the metal is because as I watched you switch torches, the metal in the crucible stayed liquid after a 4 second switch to the map torch. When you remove the torch from a properly melted crucible of silver the silver should harden right away and require a few seconds to recover its previous liquid state after bringing the torch back on to the melt. It looks like you are overheating your melt with that acetylene.
@tdubb505 Most silver you can purify by heating it to 2100 degrees. Extracting the other 10% is near impossible, (or at least to me) but purifying the 90% to 99.9% is pretty easy.
Nice work. Very cool to see the process. How can I get one guys?
of the earth hello, check ebay under user name "bafelous". As soon as I harvest the crystal I'll make some bars and offer them for sale there.
where do you get the tools for stamping the letters and numbers. Also how can I efficiently extract pure silver from silver ore. can I crush it and use mercury then burn off. I have seen that done with gold flakes,dust but not ore. its pretty rich but I know it probably has lead in it.
+Krupp88 Metal You can get the stamps on eBay;
www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Letter-Alphabet-Stamps-1-16-Jewelry-Making-Set-/121481325814?hash=item1c48d9ecf6:g:oXAAAOxyfuZR1HWH
I've never processed silver ore so I have no xperience with that. I only use sterling silver that my wife finds at yard sales and thrift stores. She gets it for pennies. Without her I would have to work at a real job punching a time clock somewhere.
Is it possible to buy these bars directly from you?
Are you using regular welding gloves or is that 2k temp rated gloves?
Nopehahalolwut These are just deer skin rope gloves from Ace Hardware.
grate pour love the lines in the bars do u sell your work and if so im interested looking for a kilo bar
Hello, I sell a little of the crystal and some poured bars on eBay. My user name there is "bafelous". The largest bar I make is 10 Troy ounces. I have one listed there now.
Are you using the cutting torch? I just bought an outfit that has both, that looks like the cutting torch, please let me know.
Nopehahalolwut Yes, a cutting torch with the flame adjusted way down so that it makes NO NOISE.
what is the cup used to melt silver crystals and what gases are used could you say there names
The silver is melted in a silica melt dish. I'm using an oxygen and acetylene cutting torch to do the melting. I keep the flame way down low because silver has a low melting temperature. Too much heat could cause the silver to boil in the melt dish.
I have a problem when melting silver. I have two torches, (propan cans) i use one to blow under the crucible, and the other on top.
The silver melts just fine, but i hardt got time to pour before it hardens.
What can one do? Just pour faster? I Heat the mold.
Replied above...
pkbjorn35 hello, I can melt 5 troy ounces of pure silver with MAP gas but it takes 10 to 12 minutes, and that's if you insulate the dish well with ceramic wool. An oxy/acetylene torch, with a cutting head and flame set to no-noise, will do the job in about 2 minutes.
Good stuff my friend! I have been perfecting the tree ring pattern myself, check out my last vid, came out good. I have a question, my bars are coming out looking great but it would be better if it Didn't have the borax spots on it. Do you glaze your crucible? And if you do how do you keep the borax off of the bar. I have to use my dremel to sand it off and it kinda ruins the original look
PhillySilver999 Hello, I do glaze my melt dish with just enough borax to coat it completely with a fine glaze. To remove the borax from the bars make a dilute sulfuric acid solution of 100ml DISTILLED water and 5 ml concentrated sulfuric acid. Add a little heat to warm the solution and put the bar with spots of borax in the dilute solution. Don't use any higher concentration and only let it soak for as long as it take to dissolve off the borax spots (about 5 minutes). Works like a charm for me. Rooto drain cleaner at Ace Hardware is 98% concentrated sulfuric acid and it works perfect for this.
This is sweet! Do you have a ebay store? I'd like to get my hands on one or ten
you know anywhere i can get them less than spot a kilo
do you need borax in a graphite cast or in quartz crucible, or both?
+Krupp88 Metal I keep borax away from my graphite mold. If borax gets in the mold it will glue the silver bar in. And then it is very difficult to get the bar out without damaging the mold. I do glaze the melt dish with borax before melting the silver in it. I've never used quartz crucibles, but I've calcined palladium salts to palladium sponge metal in a fused quartz dish - with no borax. I'll be doing a demo video on palladium refining that shows the entire process, watch for it soon.
Very pretty.
Wait a minute. The copper turn into silver?
I would check with the folks at Yeagers or some of the others like HiHo and I am sure they will help you along with your journey.Nice stuff there fella.keep at it,pour on.
i was looking for you on ebay , where can i find you?
Which chemicals used in this video are cancerous?
Nice!!! I'm inspired now =)
Kevin, would you please redo this video with sound, I wanna hear what level the mapp torch is at as well as your acetylene/oxy, would you also please tell us how to set up the welding torch; 15lbs oxy/ 5lbs acety etc.,
Again, it would be super awesome if we could hear these bars being made! :)
Nopehahalolwut Hello, the oxy/acet torch is a cutting head with the flame turned down to make ZERO NOISE. The settings you have are about what I used in this video.
By the term "melting onto the mold," I meant the silver sticking to the mold as it cooled. I know it can happen with certain molds, but I was skeptical about it with graphite molds. Thanks.
Where do you buy this silver dust.:?
ebay
javier SR The silver is actually silver crystal produced in my electrolytic silver cell. Pleased watch for a video coming soon that shows exactly how to produce the silver crystal.
do you have any up for sale? I am interested in purchasing a few.
ZombiePrep236 I sell the bars on eBay. I'll have a few bars to list this week. My user name is "bafelous" on eBay. Thank you for your interest.
sreetips hi, i am thinking on getting in to the bar silver job thing and i got a few questions, one- where do you get the silver beads and for how much, 2- how much dose it cost to turn them in to bars and how long, 3- how much do you make per bar and how high over spot do you sell them for?
just want to know before i spend a lot on silver
kkirschkk sreetips hello, I am using 99.999% pure silver Crystal grown in my electrolytic silver cell, not silver shot. I have never calculated the cost to produce one of these bars, but I would guess about 20 or 30 dollars each. I listed 3 of these bars last week (with spot silver at $15.50) and they all sold in a matter of hours for $100 each. But that's only because spot silver is much lower than the actual price of silver right now. You can't find much silver to buy at $15.50
kkirschkk you make your profit when you buy, not when you sell.
sreetips
so this is not a way to get money?
Sreetips, I've been scouring your vids looking for one in particular that people were arguing about silver purity and you chimed in something like "999 silver out of 10,000 atoms, 1 is not and for 9999 out of 100,000 atoms, 1 is not" I did not remember your statement correctly can you please re-state and let me know how to calculate that on my own as well.
One nine is out of every 10 atoms, only one of them is not silver. Thee nines means out of every 1000 atoms, only one of them is not silver (1000 - 1 = 999). Four nines - 9999 - means out of every 10,000 atoms, only one of them is not silver. Five nines - 99999 - means out of every 100,000 atoms, only one of them is not silver.
Thanks for clarifying that.
i wanna learn to do this
+Madison Bejemino Hello, I will be listing some pure silver Crystal, 5 Troy ounce bags, on eBay tomorrow. You can get the other items needed on eBay as well. You can use a MAP gas torch from the hardware store to do the melt and pour. MAP gas takes about 10 minutes to melt 5 Troy ounces of pure silver Crystal. Oxy/Acetelyne only takes about three or four minutes because it gets much hotter.
Isn't this illegal?
how do you know if you have real silver or not?
+Tyrone Hogan Hello. I use silver testing solution available from eBay (I make my own by dissolving about 1 gram of potassium dichromate in 20ml dilute nitric acid). To test take a file and cut deep into metal and place a tiny drop of the silver test solution (it is called schwerters solution) where you filed. If it is silver then it will instantly turn red. After a few seconds, dab the site with a paper towel and you will see a bright red spot transfer off onto the paper. If the color is blue green or black, then it is not silver. The reason you file into the metal is because a thick coating of silver plate will turn red and give you a false positive for silver. Hope this helps.
+Tyrone Hogan please see my video entitled "Silver Refining Complete Process for the Amateur Refiner 1of2". In that video I test a piece of silver using a file and the silver test solution.
Also, please visit my eBay listings and you will see that I have hundreds of very pleased customers that have bought my silver bars. My user name on eBay is "bafelous".
Can i buy one? Im from the uk
andromeda1892 I sell these on eBay. I'll message you when I have some available. Thank you
thank you. please dont forget. lol your silver bars are some of the best i have seen.
andromeda1892 I will list some on eBay this week for sure, then I'll let you know. Thank you for your interest.
andromeda1892 hello, I listed a five troy ounce bar on eBay this evening. 3 day auction. Ebay user name is bafelous.
thanks i will have a look
very nice
9 years WOW
Awesome