Chris Valone is the MAN! His videos are the absolute best for us "newbies" who don't really know everything yet. He makes things easy for us to understand and follow. Thanks Chris!!!
Important note: When rotating the crank pulley to set at your timing mark make sure you are rotating in the direction of rotation (clockwise) before stopping. If you go past your mark, back up the pulley an inch past your intended mark and then rotate clockwise again, then stop at your mark. This keeps all the gear clearance slack on the correct side (distributor drive to crank gear AND distributor drive to the bottom of the distributor itself).
Back up means to go back, going left (opposite of right meaning, going counter clockwise) so before your mark, but then you said past the mark which would be clockwise continuation. Did you mean?: if you got past your mark (clockwise), now turn counter clockwise, and stop at one inch before your make, now proceed to go clockwise
I'm able to keep my bug as a daily driver thanks to your videos. Other channels use highliy professional tools that cost too much for a feller to keep at home. You keep things simple and reasonable for the common folk
Great car to start young , buy a good manual, Haynes or idiots guide... Start by keeping things stock spec. Aim to use the best quality parts from Germany by Bosch for electric and ignition parts, SachsBoges for clutch and shocks, Michelin Tyres , not cheap but the best, remember your life depends on them when on the freeway, on a cold,dark,wet night . That's when you will be glad not to have got the cheap chindian parts that won't last!
Chris that an old school cool way to time the Car. Brings me back to when I was in collage and I use to drive my car with what I used to call the VW trip kit. My test light, a spare coil, belt and accelerator cable. 😀... l like this video very much.
Nevermind, somehow it all worked out. I still used the check light as it blinked off while at TDC, and its never run better. I just needed to charge the battery and get fuel into the system. Thanks buddy, you saved me money and I had the pleasure of fixing it myself. That's what bugs are all about, right?
Also, after your timing light ignites tighten down the distributor, roll pulley counter-clockwise until light goes out. Then roll pulley clockwise and see specifically where the timing light ignites. This gives you an accurate place where ignition will happen.
Thanks Chris, My alternator post band clamp snapped and the old alternator moved and threw the belt. The engine got pretty hot as a result of the fan not spinning. I don't think I did any major damage. The engine is a just run in Stan Pobjoy 1600, Stan machined out to 1916cc. Twin port heads, machined cam and dual Kadron carbs with a sidewinder exhaust. It starts and runs now although it is now popping and idling rough. The plugs were pretty bad and number 4 plug lead broke when I removed it, it was cooked. I changed the oil, I put new spark plugs, new ignition leads and a new alternator. I have re wired to an internal regulator type. I noticed that the rotor button is nowhere near number 1 now on my 009 dizzy. All new parts now fitted, I will re tune tomorrow and cross my fingers. Thanks for the well explained easy to do tune. My expertise is more body and paintwork.
Great video. This has to be the best video for setting the timing on TH-cam... After at least a dozen others, you covered all the details that I needed. thanks!
I really appreciate your videos......They are very helpful.....My 1956 with an 1835 runs great thanks to you sharing your knowledge.........Thanks Chris
Preparing to learn more and scare the poorbeetle…. Following the wires from the plugs, number one on the distributor is not near the notch but is to the left maybe at 7 on a clock face. It is most inconvenient trying to get the clips back on as one is on the back (I know Muir said it was font but back to me). The pulley has two notches and the one to the right has the number 1/32 engraved by it. When I line up with the notch to the left, the rotor points to the #1 wire. Maybe just label them on the distributor cap and live with it? I also heard someone else say that if I adjust the points then I must retime so do points first?
@@classicvwbugs Hi Chris, The distributor has no identification on it but I know the vacuum advance is bad so I ordered a distributor from Jbugs that has everything needed. The engine was supposed to have been rebuilt about 8000 miles before it was sold. The person who changed the oil for me said it was full of sludge. Another person who knows the cars said it was not rebuilt but cobbled together.
This really made this easy, thank you! I'd been struggling to figure out if my timing was off, resulting in me not being able to start my sandrail. Now that I have the timing correct and it still won't start, at least I can go on to try and address other potential issues.
Random question lol can you connect a self powered continuity test light exactly the same way but the light going out be the test signal? Because I'm that case the points close creating a continuous path to ground? I'll find or buy a new test light asap or do the timing the more basic way.
Hi Chris Great video ! 👍 you mentioned that when you have the shorter distributor that you set the timing with the pulley at TDC...so is that all vacuum advance distributors get timed at TDC and only the 009 gets timed at 7 1/2 before TDC ? Thanx !! 😊
@@classicvwbugs thanx for the reply ...have a few lol...was just wondering if the rule was if it has vac. Adv. Set at TDC....and no vac. Adv....set at 7 1/2 btdc
Thanks Chris!! My pulley have no mark on my 1600 and i want to purchased one with mark and they have so much style of pulley and some have different weight and cost and do the weight make a difference of any kind.
Holy shhh I have been chasing a misfire On the sandrail I’m restoring The video I watched said to time to TDC I’m wondering if that 7.5 degrees is where I’m going wrong and the test light trick is also something I haven’t tried So excited to try it tomorrow Thanks dude
Hi Chris,first-up I appreciate your effort to take time to put vw newbies on the right road and you come across as a stand-up guy. I live in Ireland and have a 1200 Standard Bug daily driver for 7 years.It is a 72 marina blue with matching numbers,running og engine at 88,000 miles I did a top-end rebuild last year,so-far so-good!I am surprised to see in your timing vid. that a 009 distributor is used seeing as the engine code is a D albeit an earlier one than mine and they run sweeter in stock form with a vacuum advance distributor.009 is for flat-out foot-to-floor driving not daily drivers,unless a twin-carb setup is used.Little tip use a stock ERNST exhaust and remove the baffles from the stock pea-shooter tailpipes for cheap extra pep!
I Double checked Points at .016 good gap , I actually took My coil Off to also double check + - conectors 🤔😶 Might it be the inside of the distributor it's the only part that's been untouched LoL 😅
great tutorial, does this method work with every bug? my parents got a -72 bug with vacuum advance distributor, does that make any difference with the settings?
Yeah you would time the same way with an electronic ignition. If you have way off readings from a static to a timing lights, could be the distributor. They should be the same.
If you are on the road and you have no test lamp on hand simply disconnect the cable from the oil pressure switch and use the oil pressure indicator as your test lamp. You have to look through the rear window to see the lamp. The other end of the lamp ist connected to plus 12 or 6 Volt. So all you need is the wrench with the 10 mm socket. So the beetle comes with a built-in monitor for ignition timing. How cool is that.
Chris, thanks for this video, it was a big help on my first project car. I have a new one that I had do a complete replacement of the wiring loom. When I turn the key I get the two light in the speedo, but I don't get any light on my test light when doing this test. Other than recheck your connections, is there anything you can think of that I might need to do? I am really stumped at this point...
If you have a 70's VW with a double-pull distributor, you cannot time them with a test light, you HAVE to use a timing light on those.Also, it's a good idea to check the retard diaphragm on a double pull distributor as many are blown. Double-pulls are timed at idle with both vacuum hoses connected to 5 ATDC. Which is a notch to the left of the dimple on the front rim of the pulley. 411/412's are a completely different animal that are timed at around 3500 RPM TO 27 BTDC on American market fuel injected cars.
Does it make any difference if you are using electronic ignition? When I connect the light to the negative side of the coil and turn the ignition switch to the on position, the light comes on all the time.
Hi, I have a few questions, Is the way your showing here the same point I would use if I was using a timing light. I checked mine today and its like 34 degrees BTDC, Why is mine so much different then yours? I am changing mine out to a electronic one instead of points and would I time it the same way as my one with the points?
Hi Chris great footage, just one question I know you say you time your bugs at 7.5 degrees before top dead centre is it still the same with svda distributor on a 1600 dual port with 34 pict 3 set up? Thanks
I am doing a tune up on my sister's beetle with 1600 empi racing motor, I am having an issue where the light would not turn off, and now it won't turn on, any suggestions on what to try or what may be wrong Edit: Found that when the light went out I had lost power to the coil, not sure if there is a burnt up wire or a bad ground.
The test light just indicates that the circuit is complete right? In theory would you be able to do this with a multimeter that has a continuity test setting?
Hey Chris, I have a73 standard beetle I’ve rebuilt. I’m having a HECK OF A PROBLEM with. The numbers 1 & 2 are firing, but NOT the numbers 3 & 4 . What the heck? I have NEVER run across a “gremlin” like this before. What am I NOT seeing? What could cause a problem like this? Everything is NEW!!
Hi there, currently working on a 1973 1300 beetle, previous owner done majority of work, im just finishing her up. it has had a 1600cc unleaded conversion kit fitted, two twin 40mm solex carbs, Monza exhaust, bosch 009 distributor, tried to fire it up, backfired and almost set fire to right hand carb, my guess would be that the ignition timing is way out and needs adjusting, what would be your advice? Many thanks, and great video! Cheers, joe.
I have a quick question. Is a classic Volkswagen beetle a good daily driver. I'm 15 and my dad is looking for a vehicle that I can drive and I really want a Volkswagen beetle. I would get one made after 1968 because of the price but my dad is worried that a older bug wouldnt be a good daily driver for me and he would also use the car to drive to work sometimes. MPG?
Thank you for this video, Chris. I'm getting the exact opposite problem where I'm not getting the light to turn on at all. I'm using an SVDA distributor with a Pertronix Electronic Ignition, and Pertronix coil. From what I can see, everything is connected correctly.
Hello, my buddy has a tryke with a '73 1600 engine that won't start now. It has a new starter, alternator, coil, carberator and electronic distributor. It was running before we changed the starter, but just backfires now. ?? What are we missing ?
Now what if I’m running a 1776cc how much do I advance or what is the benefit of advanced timing I’m kinda new and I bit off a lot of motor for my first project, it recently stopped running at a stoplight after about an hour of running it it would crank over for half a second but not stay cranked over I’m thinking my valves need adjusted again or I jumped timing
Hello Chris Just subscribe and check your cool video! I just curious that i have bug with vacuums advance dist installed on it. Do i need to time it 7.5btdc or at btdc? I check some video and mess up with it. Thank again!
Hi Community, Excellent video and I put it into practice and it worked but my son accidentally replaced the battery and placed positive and negative backwards and I don't understand comkk ok I was able to start the car without problems at the time. It worked well for the first 2 days but today is the 3rd day and watching your video to check with the one lit by the lamp I placed the negative on the negative coil and without moving the distributor rotor I placed the peak of the lamp on the bottom dealer and turn on.
Ok so I was an idiot and didn't use my light to time it. I just tried to turn it over and i heard a pop. I immediately stopped and when I pull the throttle one of my carb seals was spitting gas. I am going to break down/clean the carb but do you think I did any major damage? I hope to God I didn't.
So what if you have the same notches as you do just the opposite direction? So like your first notch (tdc) is on the other side of the 7.5 and 10 degree notches? 1973 original everything minus the new addition of vacuum advanced distributor.
First of all very good video, I bought my wife a 74 Bus would it be the same setting as the bugs. And will this method work on the t4 porche engine. Im new to vw's so not very sure and trying to learn.
on my 68 with vac adv my number 1 is the where urs with out it is, i followed my wire checked the valves to confirm and as part of the tune up im doin cause its running crappy at the moment. i when i do wat u do to adjust the timing i only get a quick flicker of the light, i doesnt stay on in any spot, so ibout another test light and get the same thing so i was guessing that thats the spot i want it for my timing?
@brighteyefilms I just did what this video said and it worked! My car starts fine! but now im idling REALLY low and its misfiring all over the place and now everything else seems wrong.... what do i do!? please respond ASAP!
You can't time the double vacuum distributors this way, 1971 thru 74. I'd love to see a timing light tutorial with the later 34 PICT 3 factory distributors, which have to be timed with both vacuums attached to 5 ATDC while the car is running.
I have a 1300cc with and 30pict-2 carb and 009 distro. Is this the correct method to set the pulley at 7.5btdc? Because I’m reading it should be set to 28 - 32 degrees since I have a 009 distro, unless that’s not on the pulley itself and maybe something entirely different
Hi Chris, my family has had the same Beetle for 51yrs ,it’s been stored in my Dads garage for 40yrs ,we are going to try to get it back to life again ,it’s a 1964 Vw beetle 1200 6volt what fuel should I put in it ? Cheers Jon
Chris, what about max advance timing. I have a 1300cc with a 009 cent advance distributor. I time it with the gun at 7.5 btdc. should I also be timing it 17-24 degrees at 3500 rpm with the gun for the high rpm max advance? Steve
How do i set timing with strobe light if i have only 2 notches i assume 7.5 and 10 degrees? how many degrees should i put on timing light if i start on 7.5 degrees?
I live at 10,000 feet, drives fine when its not too steep, but going up hill there is a lot of loss in power now. Have read you should advance it 1 degree per 1,000 feet. I have had this car for 25 years, seems like I should know by now, but the engine is a somewhat new rebuilt 1978 1600 with a 009. Any advice for high altitude tuning? Thanks for the tips over the years.
@@classicvwbugs Thanks for the reply. I found an online calculator for jet sizes and found the jet on eBay. Hopefully it will be here tomorrow. But had a fuel filter under the tank, it was pretty dirty, when replacing it I put an electric fuel pump in. It runs a LOT better doing that, made it up the hill in 3rd gear from a stop. Plus ordered a hot spark to replace the points and condenser. Just wondering your opinion on the electric fuel pump and ignition conversion? I have always used stock parts, but my last engine filled with gasoline because of a faulty pump. I was thinking about putting a bypass around the new pump in case it goes out on the road it would be easy to put the old one back in. Other that its location seems alright.
Hey Chris I really appreciate your videos! I have a question if you could find the time? My question is I was trying to rewire my bug and I done away with the voltage regulator and put the alternator on instead of the generator, what does it mean when my switch is off and the light in the car stays on, I guess its getting double fed? Also my test light stays on when I turned the switch off on the distributer like your video. Could you please help me out! Thanks for the video and keep them coming!
So if I were to be running a 1600 based 1835 with Empi 009 distributor would I still follow the 7 1/2 degree rule for base timing? Everyone keeps giving me conflicting information on this motor...
Hi chris, I've just tried this with strange results. I had removed the dizzy only to access the fuel pump, put everything back and the timing is out. Now, while at TDC, the rotor points to 11 o'clock. The check light is constantly on and slightly blinks off when turning the dizzy clockwise. Everything seems opposite to you video... won't start, just splutters and pops. Any suggestions?
Hi Chris...Can you tell me , does the static timing still work for the electronic ignition system? I just installed and replaced my points setup...the test light stays on throughout the rotation of distributor...? I have the 009 . Seems as though there is a flat spot off of idle, that wasn't there before... Thanks for any help and Thanks for all you do!!!
@@classicvwbugs Thanks Chris! Thats exactly what it was doing ...I put the timing light on and set it back to 11degrees BTC accounting for the altitude here...4500 ft....is the flat spot normal also? Or do i need to start over with carb settings? THANKS A BUNCH!!!
Hi Chris should a vw air cooled engine not have a vacuum advanced distributor? I've recently changed mine to a vac adv distributor and it's running so much better, no flat spot and starts instantly! Best thing I've done to the engine (1600cc air cooled)
Not hard to take a turn signal bulb and solder a couple wires with alligator clips on them, made one myself. Clipping the ground to the carburetor linkage sure does make it easier, thank you. 😃 Early cast iron distributor set to 7,5 degrees.
No it could be on number 3 as well. You need to rock the bottom pulley back and forth to see it you are on number 1 by looking at the rockers. If number one rockers don't move then you are on 1.
Hi , Im just fitting a svda distributer with elec ign and trying to follow your instructions but when i hook the light up it stays on no matter where the dist is turned to?..what am i doing wrong?..Please help, Im now stumped..It was running ok this morn with 009 ant points...Thank you.....
finally, cleaned and gaped the plugs and points. but using this timing method i nailed it. Its a great feeling with it starts and runs good, even drove it around the back yard. Thanks Chris for all the video!
What causes for the timing to be off-set? When I got my '71 Super Beetle about a year ago, I got it to run and it ran great. About several months ago I noticed my motor shaking. Could it be due to the timing not being set to 7 BTDC? I checked the timing and it's set to TDC currently. My crank pulley only has one dent/marking, I'm guessing that it's for the TDC mark. Love your channel. Thanks!
Basically if you dont have the test light u turn the distributor and when u see the spark on the contact point..am i right?thats how i do it becoz i dont have a test light
Hi Chris, can I use a multimeter instead of a test light? If so, what would be the reading on the multimeter for when I hit the spot where the test light is supposed to turn on? Would it be 12Vdc? Thanks in advance.
You can, with the multimeter, as you are turning the distributor, it will pop up to either 6v or 12v depending what system you have running through the bug.
@@classicvwbugs Chris Good Morning Sir , well All on the list is checked off as far as statick test the only part untouched is the distributor Body , oh and condenser , that's All that is holding me back from finishing my project
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Chris Valone is the MAN! His videos are the absolute best for us "newbies" who don't really know everything yet. He makes things easy for us to understand and follow. Thanks Chris!!!
thank you so much!
Important note: When rotating the crank pulley to set at your timing mark make sure you are rotating in the direction of rotation (clockwise) before stopping. If you go past your mark, back up the pulley an inch past your intended mark and then rotate clockwise again, then stop at your mark. This keeps all the gear clearance slack on the correct side (distributor drive to crank gear AND distributor drive to the bottom of the distributor itself).
I do that, good thinkin bro.
Good advice Michael, thanks,
Back up means to go back, going left (opposite of right meaning, going counter clockwise) so before your mark, but then you said past the mark which would be clockwise continuation. Did you mean?: if you got past your mark (clockwise), now turn counter clockwise, and stop at one inch before your make, now proceed to go clockwise
@@DEATHWISHVQ8:09
F
I'm able to keep my bug as a daily driver thanks to your videos.
Other channels use highliy professional tools that cost too much for a feller to keep at home. You keep things simple and reasonable for the common folk
No more dying at idle! You’re an amazing teacher man thank you so much
Thank you for all your contributions to the veedub community. Your how-to videos are a big help in keeping my bug alive!
So nice of you
I'm only 16 and wanting to fix up an old bug. I have very little mechanical experience, but your videos are so kiss.
Great car to start young , buy a good manual, Haynes or idiots guide... Start by keeping things stock spec. Aim to use the best quality parts from Germany by Bosch for electric and ignition parts, SachsBoges for clutch and shocks, Michelin Tyres , not cheap but the best, remember your life depends on them when on the freeway, on a cold,dark,wet night . That's when you will be glad not to have got the cheap chindian parts that won't last!
Just restoring the 66 bug I drove in High School back in the early 90's for my sophomore son. You're videos are invaluable! Thank you for making them.
Chris that an old school cool way to time the Car. Brings me back to when I was in collage and I use to drive my car with what I used to call the VW trip kit. My test light, a spare coil, belt and accelerator cable. 😀... l like this video very much.
Sorry typo ... when I was in college 😀😀
Nevermind, somehow it all worked out. I still used the check light as it blinked off while at TDC, and its never run better. I just needed to charge the battery and get fuel into the system. Thanks buddy, you saved me money and I had the pleasure of fixing it myself. That's what bugs are all about, right?
Also, after your timing light ignites tighten down the distributor, roll pulley counter-clockwise until light goes out. Then roll pulley clockwise and see specifically where the timing light ignites. This gives you an accurate place where ignition will happen.
Worked like magic! OH how I needed You And TH-cam 30 years ago! Thanks!
Thanks Chris, My alternator post band clamp snapped and the old alternator moved and threw the belt. The engine got pretty hot as a result of the fan not spinning. I don't think I did any major damage. The engine is a just run in Stan Pobjoy 1600, Stan machined out to 1916cc. Twin port heads, machined cam and dual Kadron carbs with a sidewinder exhaust. It starts and runs now although it is now popping and idling rough. The plugs were pretty bad and number 4 plug lead broke when I removed it, it was cooked. I changed the oil, I put new spark plugs, new ignition leads and a new alternator. I have re wired to an internal regulator type. I noticed that the rotor button is nowhere near number 1 now on my 009 dizzy. All new parts now fitted, I will re tune tomorrow and cross my fingers. Thanks for the well explained easy to do tune. My expertise is more body and paintwork.
Great video. This has to be the best video for setting the timing on TH-cam... After at least a dozen others, you covered all the details that I needed. thanks!
You have to be able to time it statically regardless. You have to make sure the timing light is on the neg side of the coil.
Thank you for a great lesson no chatter no blah blah blah just to the point!
Just saying thanks for all the good videos. Took mine for the first good drive last night and your videos were a big part of the process.
Very cool 👍 thanks so much.
I really appreciate your videos......They are very helpful.....My 1956 with an 1835 runs great thanks to you sharing your knowledge.........Thanks Chris
Preparing to learn more and scare the poorbeetle…. Following the wires from the plugs, number one on the distributor is not near the notch but is to the left maybe at 7 on a clock face. It is most inconvenient trying to get the clips back on as one is on the back (I know Muir said it was font but back to me). The pulley has two notches and the one to the right has the number 1/32 engraved by it. When I line up with the notch to the left, the rotor points to the #1 wire. Maybe just label them on the distributor cap and live with it? I also heard someone else say that if I adjust the points then I must retime so do points first?
What distributor are you using? What year engine?
@@classicvwbugs Hi Chris, The distributor has no identification on it but I know the vacuum advance is bad so I ordered a distributor from Jbugs that has everything needed. The engine was supposed to have been rebuilt about 8000 miles before it was sold. The person who changed the oil for me said it was full of sludge. Another person who knows the cars said it was not rebuilt but cobbled together.
This really made this easy, thank you! I'd been struggling to figure out if my timing was off, resulting in me not being able to start my sandrail. Now that I have the timing correct and it still won't start, at least I can go on to try and address other potential issues.
Brilliant ! Just one thing was missing at the end, to start to engine and listen to it ! Thanks a million though !
Random question lol can you connect a self powered continuity test light exactly the same way but the light going out be the test signal? Because I'm that case the points close creating a continuous path to ground? I'll find or buy a new test light asap or do the timing the more basic way.
Are you sure you are on the negative side of the coil?
@@classicvwbugs yes I was. Seemed to work. Does that make sense to you? Lol
you saved my nerves my money and my Bug; Master i am thankful for every detail you showed us.., 🙏
wow thank you, those are some crazy words. Just here to help you guys! =)
You the Guru Of Bugs . Thanks for this knowledge
Turn the key off...yer makin me nervous. You have the best VW content. Is it a block, a case, a motor, an engine??? Who cares...it's a V - Dub.
Excellent video! Had all the info i need to clear up the confusion of why my pullee had 2 marks and not 3. Thank you!
Thanks again Chris. Never knew that could be done. Thanks for all the time you put into the art.
Hi Chris Great video ! 👍 you mentioned that when you have the shorter distributor that you set the timing with the pulley at TDC...so is that all vacuum advance distributors get timed at TDC and only the 009 gets timed at 7 1/2 before TDC ? Thanx !! 😊
what year bug do you have? Most if not all short stubby distributors set at TDC. Anything tall like the 009s, go 7.5BTDC
@@classicvwbugs thanx for the reply ...have a few lol...was just wondering if the rule was if it has vac. Adv. Set at TDC....and no vac. Adv....set at 7 1/2 btdc
Thank you Chris for the amazing video and what you think about Pertronix I was looking in to them for my 1600.
Thanks Chris!! My pulley have no mark on my 1600 and i want to purchased one with mark and they have so much style of pulley and some have different weight and cost and do the weight make a difference of any kind.
Holy shhh
I have been chasing a misfire
On the sandrail I’m restoring
The video I watched said to time to TDC
I’m wondering if that 7.5 degrees is where I’m going wrong
and the test light trick is also something I haven’t tried
So excited to try it tomorrow
Thanks dude
Just wanted to say thanks for this tip man! I just did it and it worked flawlessly.
Hi Chris,first-up I appreciate your effort to take time to put vw newbies on the right road and you come across as a stand-up guy. I live in Ireland and have a 1200 Standard Bug daily driver for 7 years.It is a 72 marina blue with matching numbers,running og engine at 88,000 miles I did a top-end rebuild last year,so-far so-good!I am surprised to see in your timing vid. that a 009 distributor is used seeing as the engine code is a D albeit an earlier one than mine and they run sweeter in stock form with a vacuum advance distributor.009 is for flat-out foot-to-floor driving not daily drivers,unless a twin-carb setup is used.Little tip use a stock ERNST exhaust and remove the baffles from the stock pea-shooter tailpipes for cheap extra pep!
your points might be too tight or you have the light hooked up to the positive side of the coil.
I Double checked Points at .016 good gap , I actually took My coil Off to also double check + - conectors 🤔😶 Might it be the inside of the distributor it's the only part that's been untouched LoL 😅
Chris you info is invaluable for a VW newbie like me who ain't too SMRT!
THANKS FELLA
Phil
Buenas noches esa tecnica solo es para distribuidor a platino o tambien para encendido electrónico con distribuidor de sensor hall.
great tutorial, does this method work with every bug? my parents got a -72 bug with vacuum advance distributor, does that make any difference with the settings?
Thanks for speaking about this like I'm a "five year old"! It was a big help.😃
Yeah you would time the same way with an electronic ignition. If you have way off readings from a static to a timing lights, could be the distributor. They should be the same.
If you are on the road and you have no test lamp on hand simply disconnect the cable from the oil pressure switch and use the oil pressure indicator as your test lamp. You have to look through the rear window to see the lamp. The other end of the lamp ist connected to plus 12 or 6 Volt. So all you need is the wrench with the 10 mm socket. So the beetle comes with a built-in monitor for ignition timing. How cool is that.
Or just go buy a $3 test light at HFT
Chris, thanks for this video, it was a big help on my first project car. I have a new one that I had do a complete replacement of the wiring loom. When I turn the key I get the two light in the speedo, but I don't get any light on my test light when doing this test. Other than recheck your connections, is there anything you can think of that I might need to do? I am really stumped at this point...
If you have a 70's VW with a double-pull distributor, you cannot time them with a test light, you HAVE to use a timing light on those.Also, it's a good idea to check the retard diaphragm on a double pull distributor as many are blown. Double-pulls are timed at idle with both vacuum hoses connected to 5 ATDC. Which is a notch to the left of the dimple on the front rim of the pulley. 411/412's are a completely different animal that are timed at around 3500 RPM TO 27 BTDC on American market fuel injected cars.
Hi chris im putting in a new distributor, do i put in at tdc and then time to 7.5° thanks
Yes that's fine
Does it make any difference if you are using electronic ignition? When I connect the light to the negative side of the coil and turn the ignition switch to the on position, the light comes on all the time.
Some electronic ignitions will not work with this method.
Hi, I have a few questions, Is the way your showing here the same point I would use if I was using a timing light. I checked mine today and its like 34 degrees BTDC, Why is mine so much different then yours? I am changing mine out to a electronic one instead of points and would I time it the same way as my one with the points?
Your video was very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to do this for people like us
Can you ground out the light anywhere does it have to be the carb?
Yes any bare metal surface
Hi Chris great footage, just one question I know you say you time your bugs at 7.5 degrees before top dead centre is it still the same with svda distributor on a 1600 dual port with 34 pict 3 set up? Thanks
What does it mean when your light stays on constantly all the time? Bad condensor?
just posted a short about this today
I am doing a tune up on my sister's beetle with 1600 empi racing motor, I am having an issue where the light would not turn off, and now it won't turn on, any suggestions on what to try or what may be wrong
Edit: Found that when the light went out I had lost power to the coil, not sure if there is a burnt up wire or a bad ground.
The test light just indicates that the circuit is complete right? In theory would you be able to do this with a multimeter that has a continuity test setting?
It is 10 30PM Friday night and I watched this video, I know you must be tried of people thanking you, but thanks for sharing this is a big help.
ah it is all good man, you are very welcome! =o)
As you move the pulley will the rotor move to 1 at the same time? or do you have to lift off and move to pos 1, as i have electric ignition
Thank you. Wish you were here in Colorado Springs I would have you work on my van.
Hey Chris, I have a73 standard beetle I’ve rebuilt. I’m having a HECK OF A PROBLEM with. The numbers 1 & 2 are firing, but NOT the numbers 3 & 4 . What the heck? I have NEVER run across a “gremlin” like this before. What am I NOT seeing? What could cause a problem like this? Everything is NEW!!
Check your plugs and your plug wires, make sure you are getting spark there.
Hi there, currently working on a 1973 1300 beetle, previous owner done majority of work, im just finishing her up. it has had a 1600cc unleaded conversion kit fitted, two twin 40mm solex carbs, Monza exhaust, bosch 009 distributor, tried to fire it up, backfired and almost set fire to right hand carb, my guess would be that the ignition timing is way out and needs adjusting, what would be your advice?
Many thanks, and great video!
Cheers, joe.
I have a quick question. Is a classic Volkswagen beetle a good daily driver. I'm 15 and my dad is looking for a vehicle that I can drive and I really want a Volkswagen beetle. I would get one made after 1968 because of the price but my dad is worried that a older bug wouldnt be a good daily driver for me and he would also use the car to drive to work sometimes. MPG?
So then when you go to adjust the valves do you have to be tdc
Good video. One question: When I follow this procedure why does my test light stay on no matter where I turn the distributor?
Same happens to mine. Been trying to figure why
Same! Trying to do this right now and the light is staying on. The alligator clip is on negative, tester is touching metal. HELP!!
Thank you for this video, Chris. I'm getting the exact opposite problem where I'm not getting the light to turn on at all. I'm using an SVDA distributor with a Pertronix Electronic Ignition, and Pertronix coil. From what I can see, everything is connected correctly.
Hello, my buddy has a tryke with a '73 1600 engine that won't start now. It has a new starter, alternator, coil, carberator and electronic distributor. It was running before we changed the starter, but just backfires now. ?? What are we missing ?
Thanks Chris brilliant help you give . Details on how fix vw beetles is a valuable service for me and the other viewer's .
Now what if I’m running a 1776cc how much do I advance or what is the benefit of advanced timing I’m kinda new and I bit off a lot of motor for my first project, it recently stopped running at a stoplight after about an hour of running it it would crank over for half a second but not stay cranked over I’m thinking my valves need adjusted again or I jumped timing
The only video that makes sence. Thank you!
Hello Chris
Just subscribe and check your cool video!
I just curious that i have bug with vacuums advance dist installed on it. Do i need to time it 7.5btdc or at btdc? I check some video and mess up with it.
Thank again!
That would be zero. But you can try 7.5
Hi Community, Excellent video and I put it into practice and it worked but my son accidentally replaced the battery and placed positive and negative backwards and I don't understand comkk ok I was able to start the car without problems at the time. It worked well for the first 2 days but today is the 3rd day and watching your video to check with the one lit by the lamp I placed the negative on the negative coil and without moving the distributor rotor I placed the peak of the lamp on the bottom dealer and turn on.
sup chris i wanted to know about the vacuum wat does it exactly do and wat doess the condenser do how do i know if its not working thanks
Ok so I was an idiot and didn't use my light to time it. I just tried to turn it over and i heard a pop. I immediately stopped and when I pull the throttle one of my carb seals was spitting gas. I am going to break down/clean the carb but do you think I did any major damage? I hope to God I didn't.
So what if you have the same notches as you do just the opposite direction? So like your first notch (tdc) is on the other side of the 7.5 and 10 degree notches? 1973 original everything minus the new addition of vacuum advanced distributor.
First of all very good video, I bought my wife a 74 Bus would it be the same setting as the bugs. And will this method work on the t4 porche engine. Im new to vw's so not very sure and trying to learn.
on my 68 with vac adv my number 1 is the where urs with out it is, i followed my wire checked the valves to confirm and as part of the tune up im doin cause its running crappy at the moment. i when i do wat u do to adjust the timing i only get a quick flicker of the light, i doesnt stay on in any spot, so ibout another test light and get the same thing so i was guessing that thats the spot i want it for my timing?
@brighteyefilms I just did what this video said and it worked! My car starts fine! but now im idling REALLY low and its misfiring all over the place and now everything else seems wrong.... what do i do!? please respond ASAP!
The piston is at tdc at the top of the exhaust stroke too. Maybe do a video about that little head scratcher.
Para iniciar ese proceso debo poner la polea en la muesca de 7 1/2 primero cierto?????
You can't time the double vacuum distributors this way, 1971 thru 74. I'd love to see a timing light tutorial with the later 34 PICT 3 factory distributors, which have to be timed with both vacuums attached to 5 ATDC while the car is running.
I have a 1300cc with and 30pict-2 carb and 009 distro. Is this the correct method to set the pulley at 7.5btdc? Because I’m reading it should be set to 28 - 32 degrees since I have a 009 distro, unless that’s not on the pulley itself and maybe something entirely different
Hi Chris, my family has had the same Beetle for 51yrs ,it’s been stored in my Dads garage for 40yrs ,we are going to try to get it back to life again ,it’s a 1964 Vw beetle 1200 6volt what fuel should I put in it ? Cheers Jon
Great video, just used this and your valve video as a reference. Just bought a second vw sandrail and trying to get it all tuned up!
Chris, what about max advance timing. I have a 1300cc with a 009 cent advance distributor. I time it with the gun at 7.5 btdc. should I also be timing it 17-24 degrees at 3500 rpm with the gun for the high rpm max advance?
Steve
How do i set timing with strobe light if i have only 2 notches i assume 7.5 and 10 degrees? how many degrees should i put on timing light if i start on 7.5 degrees?
Thanks for the tutorial! Can you use this same method with an SVDA distributor with an electronic ignition system?
you can, but some electronic ignitions do not work with the test light, some do some dont.
I live at 10,000 feet, drives fine when its not too steep, but going up hill there is a lot of loss in power now. Have read you should advance it 1 degree per 1,000 feet. I have had this car for 25 years, seems like I should know by now, but the engine is a somewhat new rebuilt 1978 1600 with a 009. Any advice for high altitude tuning? Thanks for the tips over the years.
Try changing to a smaller jet size in the carb, probably have to lean out the carb.
@@classicvwbugs Thanks for the reply. I found an online calculator for jet sizes and found the jet on eBay. Hopefully it will be here tomorrow.
But had a fuel filter under the tank, it was pretty dirty, when replacing it I put an electric fuel pump in. It runs a LOT better doing that, made it up the hill in 3rd gear from a stop. Plus ordered a hot spark to replace the points and condenser.
Just wondering your opinion on the electric fuel pump and ignition conversion? I have always used stock parts, but my last engine filled with gasoline because of a faulty pump. I was thinking about putting a bypass around the new pump in case it goes out on the road it would be easy to put the old one back in. Other that its location seems alright.
@@coreymillia Yeah I do not use the electric fuel pumps, I try to stay stock.
Doesnt spark occur when the points open, not when they close?? So when the test light turns off, not on?
Hey Chris I really appreciate your videos! I have a question if you could find the time? My question is I was trying to rewire my bug and I done away with the voltage regulator and put the alternator on instead of the generator, what does it mean when my switch is off and the light in the car stays on, I guess its getting double fed? Also my test light stays on when I turned the switch off on the distributer like your video. Could you please help me out! Thanks for the video and keep them coming!
Thank you for the help we've got from you. Specifically for the value degree of timing marks.
So if I were to be running a 1600 based 1835 with Empi 009 distributor would I still follow the 7 1/2 degree rule for base timing? Everyone keeps giving me conflicting information on this motor...
Hi chris, I've just tried this with strange results. I had removed the dizzy only to access the fuel pump, put everything back and the timing is out. Now, while at TDC, the rotor points to 11 o'clock. The check light is constantly on and slightly blinks off when turning the dizzy clockwise. Everything seems opposite to you video... won't start, just splutters and pops. Any suggestions?
Hi Chris...Can you tell me , does the static timing still work for the electronic ignition system? I just installed and replaced my points setup...the test light stays on throughout the rotation of distributor...? I have the 009 . Seems as though there is a flat spot off of idle, that wasn't there before... Thanks for any help and Thanks for all you do!!!
I light might always stay on since the electronic ignition module might not work with the static timing. May need to use a test gun.
@@classicvwbugs Thanks Chris! Thats exactly what it was doing ...I put the timing light on and set it back to 11degrees BTC accounting for the altitude here...4500 ft....is the flat spot normal also? Or do i need to start over with carb settings? THANKS A BUNCH!!!
Hi Chris should a vw air cooled engine not have a vacuum advanced distributor? I've recently changed mine to a vac adv distributor and it's running so much better, no flat spot and starts instantly! Best thing I've done to the engine (1600cc air cooled)
Yes they all came with a vacuum advance, except the early years up to 53 oval in the 25hp era. A 1600dp motor runs much better with a vacuum advance.
Not hard to take a turn signal bulb and solder a couple wires with alligator clips on them, made one myself. Clipping the ground to the carburetor linkage sure does make it easier, thank you. 😃
Early cast iron distributor set to 7,5 degrees.
chris. will the engine always be at no 1 when the pully notches are at the top! or could the distributor be 180 out? and is there a way to tell
No it could be on number 3 as well. You need to rock the bottom pulley back and forth to see it you are on number 1 by looking at the rockers. If number one rockers don't move then you are on 1.
ok then I will need to open the valve cover on the passenger side right?
@@kevinbakersardog yes 😀
so would this timing spec still be the same if i have a ignition module and my plugs are gaped to 35? also a hi volt coil 40,000
Hi , Im just fitting a svda distributer with elec ign and trying to follow your instructions but when i hook the light up it stays on no matter where the dist is turned to?..what am i doing wrong?..Please help, Im now stumped..It was running ok this morn with 009 ant points...Thank you.....
finally, cleaned and gaped the plugs and points. but using this timing method i nailed it. Its a great feeling with it starts and runs good, even drove it around the back yard. Thanks Chris for all the video!
ah you are welcome my friend.
Thanks a lot. Very HELPFUL, my pulley has the front dimple and the 5.5 degrees ATDC and was NOT SURE what to do. THANKS A LOT AGAIN.
What happens when you advance time it at 3000 + RPM, Does that static position change?
What causes for the timing to be off-set? When I got my '71 Super Beetle about a year ago, I got it to run and it ran great. About several months ago I noticed my motor shaking. Could it be due to the timing not being set to 7 BTDC? I checked the timing and it's set to TDC currently. My crank pulley only has one dent/marking, I'm guessing that it's for the TDC mark. Love your channel. Thanks!
What distributor do you have on there? Sometimes over time the dizzy can shift. Or the last owner did not have it set right.
@@classicvwbugs I believe it’s the 009.
@@carkingspot an 009 is without vacuum
@@VallonesRCHobby The one I have is with vacuum. Maybe it’s not 009?
@@VallonesRCHobby Should the timing be set 7 degrees BTDC even with the distributor that I have (with vacuum and condenser)?
Hey Chris great vid, quick question. What if you have the short stubby distributor with the vacuum advance? What are those timed to? Thanks in advance
usually 0
Thanks for your help!
Basically if you dont have the test light u turn the distributor and when u see the spark on the contact point..am i right?thats how i do it becoz i dont have a test light
Hi Chris, can I use a multimeter instead of a test light? If so, what would be the reading on the multimeter for when I hit the spot where the test light is supposed to turn on? Would it be 12Vdc? Thanks in advance.
You can, with the multimeter, as you are turning the distributor, it will pop up to either 6v or 12v depending what system you have running through the bug.
@@classicvwbugs thanks!
@@classicvwbugs Chris Good Morning Sir , well All on the list is checked off as far as statick test the only part untouched is the distributor Body , oh and condenser , that's All that is holding me back from finishing my project
@@classicvwbugs Sorry About that Chris any suggestions
@@juanmanuelcortez1098 Suggestions for?
How does the test light turn on if it is on the negative side? Doesnt it need a power?
Aqui no Brasil, devido a mistura de álcool na gasolina, geralmente deixamos o ponto de ignição entre 12,5 e 15 graus.