It's great to hear you say the same thing I have been telling my customers for years. Personally I have a block heater, trans heater and trickle charger on my Ram Cummins, 260k miles and counting!
I have to warm up for like 10 minutes for the windows not to fog up after scraping the ice off in the -20 even with a block heater. Idk what the hell to do as an alternative. Drive with my head out the window??? I don't care if I'm cold I work outside anyways.
@@litoaykiu Yes, i would too, if i would have time and money 4 the fuel, but, because i don't , i just drive Very Slowly, until it warmes up, but when the oil warmes up, i give it the Full Booost .
Really good and sound advice. What you forgot to mention is that when you drive the car around after a cold start, not only does your engine warm up quicker, but your HVAC system heats up quicker as well. I don't know if this is a good analogy or not, but I equate to if you are in the cold and you stand around, you will be cold and it will take you a while to warm up. But if you are moving around you will heat up quicker.
Thanks, Dave. I live in interior Alaska, and we plug our vehicles into heater block, oil pan and tranny pan heater and trickle charger or battery warmers when its cold here. I will send this to all the people I work with idling for 20 mins waiting for heat to blow out the vents.
@ I would use anti-gel additives if it gets that cold, but winter diesel usually has it covered. Heating pads stick to the oil pans to keep the oil warmer, I use T6 0w-40 oil in the winter.
My 1.9 tdi does -34f cold starts with no block heater. Battery tender ect. If your engine is good shape there is no need for block heater unless it’s inferior design. Like a diesel without glow plugs
As a diesel owner I high idle my truck in the winter on start up, if your not doing this and live in a cold climate where temps drop bellow freezing each morning then you should, I dont drive my truck right away, I remote start and let it warm up in the driveway, high idle does the same as driving without putting a load on your transmission which is at the same temp your engine is during cold start, let it high idle and as the coolant temp rises the trans cooler side of your radiator will warm your trany fluid up as well making both sides happy, for diesel additives I run Hot Shots EDT and 2 stroke oil, I have never had diesel gel in my truck during the winter since it is driven daily and always has 40+ gallons of fuel in its 62 gallon fuel tank, and oil changes are done every 5K miles with Rotella T5, 2006 Chevy LBZ Duramax with 206K miles, engine is stock besides bigger cold and hot side pipes, EGR no longer exists but it has the original turbo and injectors, no issues so far, zero blow by, no leaks and my injector balance rates are spot on.
@@rotorblade9508Regular idle when cold in a duramax is about 700 and factory high idle is 1200. There’s a switch out there that adds 1200 1500 and 2000 rpm to idle it up
If your vehicle does not have one, add a block heater if you live in cold weather. Plug it in at night, plugging the extrnsion cord into a good quality timer inside or under a porch. Set timer to turn on block heater 30min to 1 hour before your departure. Turn HVAC to defrost & temperature to high. Your winfows will be clear & everything warm & ready to go. Be sure to run the extension cord out & up over the tire do if you forget to unplug it, the tire will.
@@litoaykiualthough a risk, I saw my father pour a bucket of hot water on his 2007 Mercedes benz sprinters windshield every winter, even at - 20°C, no cracks
I have always done this with my 2008 F250 diesel. The only time it idles in the winter is to melt ice off of the windows. If the windows are ice-free, I start it, put my seat belt on, and drive easy until it warms up. 304,000 miles and still runs great.
Actually he said 15 seconds, then drive. These new engines aren't the same as 25 years ago. In the 70's &80's we let big trucks idle all night in cold weather.
Best to use a little throttle (manual or electronic) and raise the ram's above idle by 1-200 rpm. Fuel economy raises and engine is dmother, more efficient with good oil pressure
Where I live, it gets to be -30 degrees C in Winter. You need more than 10-15 seconds after startup before you can drive the thing for sure. It takes a while for the high idle to come down on the gasoline cars and much longer in those conditions. I usually wait for the high idle to come down.
Mercedes Benz diesel 2005 (common rail) user manual: if temperatures outside get below -15C you can start using 5% petro/gasoline to aid the startig. Every 5 degrees C lower you can add 2.5-5% gasoline/petrol in the fuel tank
Since I retired, I only drive between 4,000- 5,000 miles a year. I still change the oil and filter twice a year because of the condensation that builds up with the seasonal temperature swings.
Condensation is used up during a proper drive cycle. That trip to 7-11 ain't gonna do it! That trip down the interstate will. The systems and lubricants will come to operating temperature for a long enough duration to vapor off any moisture. Short trippers are so easy to spot... The inside of the oil filler cap looks like a nice hot cuppa with heavy cream!! Sufficient drive cycle use does not do that unless head gaskets have let go or worse!
One thing about driving the vehicle in extreme conditions is the windshield factor. When its -30 you'll be a long time driving for that oil pan to heat up.
In Northern Europe (Sweden, Norway and Finland), most diesel car cars comes with a diesel Liquid Heater (at some point 70% of the cars was diesel, so a lot of experience) . Some units just run when the car is on, others can be used to preheat the engine and interior...
Thats like jumpin out of bed and heading straight out the door for a jog. Doesnt matter if you have synthetic oil or not, when its -35C that oil is gonna be like trying pour out syrup. Oil pressure will peg the gauge and the oil pump is working its hardest trying to pump that cold oil. I let my trucks and equipment warm up before it gets put in to gear. Cant comprehend the idea that its ok to drive away with frost on the crank. And there hasn't ever been anything mentioned about cold and contraction and heat and expansion. Be nice if Dave commented his theories with that. Even a pan heater helps, but gotta let the metals expand and do their thing. I totally agree with not letting an engine gas or diesel dead idle. If you can idle it up to get to normal oil pressure then thats all you need.
I don’t think Dave knows what real cold is! We let our tractors warm up for 30 min before heading out in the winter. Trying to leave the yard with a cold engine will get you a blown head gasket plenty fast.
@canadiansnowplowguy2852 blown headgssket and or blown apart oil filter. I had 2 early Duramax's that would blow the torque converter seals when it was -40
Transmissions love trying to do stuff when the fluid is -15 degrees and below. Dave, do an experiment with a trans with fluid thats 20 below, would be interested see what percentage of slippage it has.
@@themountainman2613 It's a high speed metal-on-metal machine with very tight clearances. The more gradually and uniformly you get the parts up to temperature, the better. So yes, it does need to warm up.
I own Semi trucks freightliners with old series 60s....i would Highly recommended Warming up any Iron block especially before just Operating.......now my little 2.4 in my 02 Toyota camry it doesn't matter car wont die 280k and still ticking...
This is a good way to blow head gaskets not letting it warm up. Diesel's only. Do yourself a favor and if its below 20 degrees plug it in or let it idle. Some good advise here and some poor. 300k + and original gaskets turbo etc. no leaks no issues. 100% coming from a Tech that works on Diesels let it warm up until the idle comes down. A normal diesel has a warm up cycle it performs until it reaches a certain temp. Every manufactures tune is different.
I have a '20 Subaru WRX. Since new I've let idle until the oil temp shows 86 degrees, the minimum it will register, then I start driving. It doesn't burn oil between changes and I've zero mechanical problems in 85K miles.
I have a '25 Subaru Crosstrek. When I start it, it will idle at ~2000 rpm and I let it idle like that until it automatically drops to. 1000. I learned on this channel that direct injection vehicles need to warm up before put it under a load.
I think what he means is drive it as soon as possible, for me i start it up, idle up to the gate, close it and then i drive like grandma untill i see the coolant temp come up, i never have jet black oil when i do my oil changes, it all makes sense
I have an 04 6.0 and in my state in the south it gets cold sometimes below freezing maybe get some snow as well. I keep my heater on it plugged in even if it’s not below freezing. Now when I go to turn it on, I turn it on give it 15-20 minutes to warm up then roll of. I don’t rev it like what Dave was “recommending” to do. Feel free to drop a comment because I don’t quite understand the logic behind all of this. TIA!
I tell my family, if you're going to let car idle cold don't run the darn heat inside the car until you're ready to drive - that only makes warm up 20x longer cause you're actually cooling the water and making it harder to get to temp - run the electric defroster. It's exponentially faster to let the motor warm up then add all the accessories than to turn everything on and wait...Dave, I use your technique with vehicles that are garaged cause windows are clear...when I have an ice cube outside I use mine and it seems to work well...
Wise words, Dave. When I was a kid my dad taught me to let the car warm up for several minutes (5-10) when it was say 20F or below. Well, in MN that's quite often so when I got my first car (99 Grand Marquis) and was going back home from work I'd start the car up, go back to my desk to gather my things and head out. I saw just how much fuel it was wasting and wondered if this was really necessary. Every resource I've seen echoes what you have stated. When it's 32F or below I let it warm up for 30 seconds, sit another 10 seconds or so when I shift out of park, and gently go on my way. If it's say 10 F or below I'll let it warm up initially for a minute. I have plenty of time before I get on the freeway on the way to work for the engine to warm up especially with a brand new thermostat, but on the way home my office is basically next to the freeway and I don't want to push the cold engine hard on the onramp so sometimes I will slowly drive a few laps around the parking lot to warm it up that way. I've put 100K miles on that ES300 engine, and changed my oil every 5K or 6M, no issues at all.
We have an extended on ramp where I live, because it's uphill and there's a gravel pit nearby. I'm the only car that actually uses the whole length in the morning, going slow seems to hurt people's feelings or something, they all floor it and spew white smoke out the rear end of their cold ass engines just so they can merge as quickly as possible
At the OEMs we would use ECT of 160F and EOT of 140F as the temperatures where the engine "should" be OK with a full load application. There were also other factors with TOT and differential lubricant temperature. Some engines needed 180F, otherwise cylinder heads would bend and cause combustion gas leaks into the cooling system. Other factors, such as windshield defrost requirements required engines to idle before driving. Is that why diesels have extra clap trap in their exhaust controls? Also, front cover AND cylinder cavitation damage happens, if bad cold driveaway advice is followed. Scuffing wear happens when the aluminum pistons expand faster than the iron block or liners. The piston bowl limits the advance that is possible for the injectors, so piston lip cracking happens when cold driveaway is too much. Unless someone works at the OEM in these specific development capacities, they just don't get the exposure to the data. On top of that, every driver or mechanic is an expert; just ask them. They are always smarter than a development engineer that spent his entire adult life on that topic, used as an expert to do that exact work for worldwide OEMs and the military.
High idle is important. If your windows are frozen don't start the rig a half hour early to get it "warm". Sit there with your foot on the pedal and keep it around 1500rpm until it's warm, or add a high idle system to the vehicle. Low idle is incredibly descructive and does very little to warm up the motor
Still haven’t addressed using high idle. I have gotten blackstone lab reports on every one of the oil changes on my 21’ Cummins. Deleted. No fuel whatsoever detected in the oil. I high idle my truck in the winter….im not talking about 32 degrees outside. I’m talking about in the negatives. I plug it in when I can. But up in the mountains at 10k feet I’m not just gonna drive my diesel “gently” cause when you start off you’re already on a freaking hill. High idle is for a reason. I use hotshots edt and winter edt. Oil change every 7500. Runs like a top. I idle it but within reason.
I have been telling people this for years had everyone from engineers to mechanics disagree with me. My old dodge with 6bt cummins could sit idling on a cold Canadian day for hours and it will never heat up, you absolutely should drive it easy until warmed up don't idle it! Toss a warm wool blanket in your diesel truck for the first 5min or 30min if you drive a 12v and it's -40. haha
Words to live by. Even if you use full synthetic oil, let it idle for 5-10 minutes. Got it. The Midwest misery is bad with cold temperatures, tons of rock salt poured on the roads and highway and dealing with potholes and the darn orange barrels to highway construction closures. Ugh
There is no cut and dry answer to this. Colder conditions dictate certain applications. Higher idle in extremely cold temps until the needle moves IMHO is when you should move the truck.
I put an espar hydronic on my vw diesel. I go out in the morning and the coolant temp is 140-150. After starting it i let it get oil circulating good and away i go with a warm engine.
Many disagree with your statement on cold starts. I have owned transports and equipment for many years and we always raise the idle and set until the coolent gage moves and then drive with minimal hp until up to operating temperature. The heads, block, transmission components are all made out of different alloys and react to temperature at different rates. By driving before engine is up to operating temperatures increases the probability of blown seals and gaskets.
Agreed comin from manitoba we had 3 days of -44C/ -47F this week and if we didn't have block heater/oil heaters there's no way we would've started up & made any money
Works on old diesels with bad compression, too. Heat the engine oil to 180-190°F and pour it back in before starting. Safer and more reliable than ether. (Be careful heating the oil, keep a fire extinguisher handy!)
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At least wait till the RPM's reach the normal idling speed. That has heated the engine enough to run 'nomal' without driving it like you stole it. It takes from 25 to a 90 seconds depending on the car. Turbo engines need a lot more time to get the turbo a little bit of heat
So many people here disputing your advice, they will pay the price down the road. I know that and so does Dave. If you live where it goes below 20°F regularly, get an electric block heater and use it !
Here in Iowa we have winter fuel so its not suppose to gel but it willl lol, so we add a fuel additive but on really cold days we plug them in so their warm when we start them, my old 7.3 ford I just plug it in and never had a problem with it but I do keep up with maintance on the truck fresh oil change before cold weather and good batteries and make sure the filters are all changed , love my 7.3 it has 260k on it and keeps running
I agree... but would add wait until u see your rpm gauge drop to idle rpm around 600 rpm. It may take more than 10 sec's to get to idle rpm. Another thing... I would do oil changes at half of manufacturers suggested maintenance interval.
I let my engine idle until it idles down. It always runs at higher rpm when first started cold. It usually takes 30 seconds to a minute to idle down when cold. Up to 2 minutes when it's very cold. In the summer months it idles down within just a few seconds, so I don't wait.
@@Maynardd 2013 Ford 350 6.7l 2008 ram 5500 6.7l Two work trucks I've had experience with that low idle on startup. Most others idle at 1k until they warm up. It's not universal
7:00 those are words of wisdom “Do your maintenance “ don’t procrastinate and don’t wear shorts with flip flops 🩴 while you’re working on your truck show some respect and wear proper clothing and working boots 👀👋😊👋
Always start my engine, and in a minute or so I drive moderately to allow the transmission fluid to warm up as well before I hit the pedal at all. Duramax diesel, replaced 1 nox sensor in 170K miles, always change oil, fuel filters and additive in fuel, live in NH and it gets pretty cold on winter mornings around here
Just my road. I get chased down the road but dive off to a loop that takes me back to the road. An extra three minutes then it’s literally downhill for the next mile.
7.3 and 6.0 powerstroke has injectors stiction during cold start. Archoil will eliminate 7.3 and 6.0 HEUI injectors stiction during the cold when it starts up.
The thing is Hybrid cars when you start them the battery turns it on. The motor is actually off. What I do is I drive it really slow as im getting out of my condo and by the time I make it to the main road is already warm. Then I drive it normally
So what does diesel pickups have an elevated idle feature from factory, Dave? Come to Canada in January when it's -50 and we'll show you why elevated idle is such a thing.
A. you should be using a block heater primarily, And yes people up in Canada need high idle for when you park somewhere where you don't have one. But it's not like you need to use that unless it's Sub-Zero which generally doesn't happen much in the lower 40 ish states, where 90% of people live.
As someone that developed cold start and cold warmup for diesel engine and gasoline engine manufacturers for 2+ decades, it is interesting to hear what others think about cold start and driveaway. I would spend 1-3 months of my life each year, cold starting and doing driveability and durability work in northern Minnesota and Canada. Pre-work and cleanup work would be done in cold trailers and cold sheds at $2200 to 2800 per day. My lessons and experience are interesting with an IndiCom2 and even an IndiMaster in the old days, million dollar combustion analyzers. We paid attention to a lot of things. It was awful work where it hurt the body with the cold. We didn't put dumb engineers on those jobs. The cold start work was that important.
The EPA put a lot of pressure on the OEMs as part of our AECDs to get the catalysts working ASAP, and they flooded the media with "fast warmup" bad advice. The fastest warmup and best practices are different. The odds of the oil filter going into bypass mode are high, if the fast warmup advice is followed. Cavitation damage is also higher until the ECT and EOT warms up, maybe 150F and 140F. Do people really believe that piston to cylinder friction is that high? That heat is nothing.
What you need to know; from cold northern Saskatchewan: install an engine block heater, and a coolant heater that also heats up the interior. You're welcome.
up here in minnesota if you start an engine look at oil pressure see if it builds right away the oil pump may not prime correctly if uou dont get oil pressure right away shut it off wait 30 seconds restart it gemerally the second te it will pripe cotrectly watch oil pressure dont put under load till it starts come down once things start to warm up a minute or two idle it up to a grand till oil pressure comes down some then you wont destroy it in sub zero weather
Great advice depending on time of year for some of us! Were I live in East Tennessee we get big temp swings between daytime and nighttime. It will be 60 and raining during the day and into the early evening and turn to snow and 25 degrees overnight! Leaving you with an iced over car in the driveway with 1/4” of ice on the windshield. I’ve yet to find an ice scraper good enough to clear the windshield in a hurry short of using ice melt in conjunction but at $5-$10 a can depending on brand that gets very expensive quickly! Sometimes we don’t have a choice cause the doors are frozen shut as well so even if we clear the windshield with a scraper and chemicals we’re still locked out of the vehicle till it warms up enough to thaw the ice around the doors! I’ve actually broken door handles trying to open the door on a few mornings I was running late! Without auto start I’d have to get the heat gun or risk pouring water of the door sills. Which depending on outside temperature just freezes instantly or risk cracking glass!
A few years back I was locked out of my truck in such a way, at 1 in the morning (late shift at work). Ice storm rolled through, caked the entire truck in nearly 1/2 inch of ice. If I didn't have remote start, I'd have had to sleep at my work site and go home in the morning--thankfully the truck warmed itself up and I got in about 20 minutes later.
Here we go again: it’s never about the engine as much as it is about warming up the transmission fluid before you drive off. That’s why transmission fluid runs through radiator to warm up so it wouldn’t shift hard on cold fluids where most damage occurs that way.
I've been screaming about this for years and my friends always say "aren't you going to let it warm up" yeah by driving gently down the road while I watch the needle rise lol my 7.3l takes way too long to warm up under idle
if the oil is thick there will be some load and you could add by turning on lights or maybe AC. I think there is an optimal start up pattern like: let it idle for 30s then vary rpm from 1000 to 1500rpm for 2 minutes then up to 2000rpm for 30s then drive off. 2500rpm max until oil reaches 50C . when the oil is cold high rmps put more stress on the oil pump and distributor pump driver
Yep I live in Wisconsin & had -14 where I'm at just the other night & that was with no wind-chill and I live in a rural area so I always let my vehicle run for a while because none of them have block heaters. Been doing this for 40 years and have yet to have any problems with the engines in a variety of cars and trucks I've had through those years but I also change my oil be it on a vehicle that uses synthetic or dino oil every 3,000 miles with a new oil filter and I think by doing these short oil change intervals helps with getting any moisture & unburned fuel out of the oil when doing these low mile oil changes. Got to remember oil is cheap blown engines aren't . I've had on some winter clear nights with no wind-chill where the outside thermometer has dipped into -27 below so it gets damn cold out here at times compared to the cities . Most of these new vehicles once started the idle comes down pretty quickly where as my old 82 K10 that I put a 400 SBC in it that's carbureted I can go out and push the gas pedal 2 times and it fires right up & will stay in its high idle until I kick the idle down so when I go out to start it in cold winter weather I just leave it in its high idle with the defrost on & go in the house and wait for 15 minutes and it's warmed up & ready to plow my driveway with it after I step on the throttle to get the choke to fully open up and the high idle comes down to regular idle speed . These new vehicles are designed so you start them & let them come down on high idle then start driving which where we live your going to freeze your ass off by the time it warms up lol unless you got long johns on & insulated coveralls on & a heavy winter jacket and good insulated boots on .
I use seafoam as my cold weather additive in all diesels. 11 diesel engines running great in Wisconsin. It works great for anti gel and fuel cleaner. It works great with the cherry 🍒 flavor diesel also..
I live on the gulf coast of Texas so down here we don’t get that cold. When I start my truck on a cold start I always let it idle down from 1000 rpm to 600 rpm before putting my truck in drive and taking off. I figure the oil is sufficiently warm enough once the idle settles down after start up to drive.
High idle if needing to let the truck idle. It avoids cylinder wall washing. Cummins with the exhaust brake. Kick that on to put a small load and get heat faster.
I live in Saskatoon Canada it gets in the winter to up her -20 up to - 60 block heaters are a must because if the temperature gets to -40 or low you will crack the block on a diesel maybe not the first time but it will happen diesel have a higher compression we have to let our vehicles idle until the engine warms up because where we’re at if you don’t do that, you hurt the motor different provinces are warmer or colder same as the states one state can be warmer. One state could be cooler. .
For guys who have sports cars that don’t drive them in the winter and keep them in a semi heated garage about 40° but just start them up every 2 or 3 days just to keep the oil circulating and to keep the valve train coated with oil, after you started your car and your oil temperature gets up to 100° should you kick up the idle to like 500 or 600 RPM since you’re not actually driving it and because you said you want the oil to splash around. I usually let my car run until my thermostat opens up, which is like 203° and then I shut off after about a minute, the whole process takes about 12 to 13 minutes. I was wondering what your thoughts were for us guys with sports cars that don’t drive in the winter.
I would like to send a big shout-out to you and your TEAM at DAVE'S AUTO CENTER, I hale from Ontario, Canada and have done exactally what you tell your follower's, my 5.3 supercharged/tuned for speed 2014 Yukon get's a little warm up before take-off and with regular maintenence has never let me down!
Additives like that secret sauce or other reputable brands of diesel winter & general additives are needed and beneficial but the main thing to add to your modern diesel to insure years of affordable service is add an extended warranty, or you will 100% regret not doing it.
I've always had experiences with additives that made zero difference, snake oil most of the time. Recently, I've had an ECM issue with my diesel that doesn't cycle the glow plugs properly. I tried hot shot secret EDT and it 100% helps on cold starts here in Oregon.
I'm a fan of after a cold start, allow the revs to drop from the initial high, then drive away GENTLY. Be kind to the engine, transmission and they'll be kind to you.
2 Questions; What would you recommend to add to diesel fuel during the colder months to prevent the fuel from jelling up? And after starting the vehicle would just revving up the engine r.p.m. be good enough to get heat into the oil?
Right on Dave thank you for your advice you definitely are the motor master, probably save a lot of people a lot of money and a lot of headaches by your knowledge thank you very much
Plug in your truck let the block heater do it’s job. Canadian for 72 years. Do not rev the engine just slowly pull away and accelerate moderately. The block heater makes all the difference to my diesel. Truck warms up to operating temp within minutes.
I’ve been torn on engine idling. I have engine heaters on all my vehicles (gas and a diesel) I do my best to always plug them in when it’s below freezing, then I double down and let them idle too. It’s videos like these that change opinions, no “don’t do this because I said so” you actually prove it with facts.
It's great to hear you say the same thing I have been telling my customers for years. Personally I have a block heater, trans heater and trickle charger on my Ram Cummins, 260k miles and counting!
whats that? like something that heats the engine before you start it?
I dont think people understand when its -20 with 30mph wind nobody is starting their vehicle to heat up the oil. Its so we dont freeze to death.
the oil does warm up just not as fast it needs to warm up enough so it will flow to lubricate properly
Block heaters allow the heating system to work better too.
Get a block heater timer and warm for 4 hours if it is -30.
@@wayneessar7489some times that's not possible but yes if it's setting outside it really helps
Inside a sealed car out of the wind. -20f is not that bad.
Wear a coat
I have to warm up for like 10 minutes for the windows not to fog up after scraping the ice off in the -20 even with a block heater. Idk what the hell to do as an alternative. Drive with my head out the window??? I don't care if I'm cold I work outside anyways.
I plug my diesels in at night during cold weather so the block heater keeps them nice and cozy!
Smart man.
On cold days I would let it idle. Worked Siberia and Northern Canada.
I do that even in the warmer months.
@@litoaykiu Yes, i would too, if i would have time and money 4 the fuel, but, because i don't , i just drive Very Slowly, until it warmes up, but when the oil warmes up, i give it the Full Booost .
Really good and sound advice.
What you forgot to mention is that when you drive the car around after a cold start, not only does your engine warm up quicker, but your HVAC system heats up quicker as well.
I don't know if this is a good analogy or not, but I equate to if you are in the cold and you stand around, you will be cold and it will take you a while to warm up. But if you are moving around you will heat up quicker.
Yup. Like firewood. the fuel that warms you up twice.
Thanks, Dave. I live in interior Alaska, and we plug our vehicles into heater block, oil pan and tranny pan heater and trickle charger or battery warmers when its cold here. I will send this to all the people I work with idling for 20 mins waiting for heat to blow out the vents.
Same setup here in Canada, plus my truck sleeps in my garage. If you look after them they will last longer.
What type setup do you use on like heating the fuel lines (if you have such a creature) or tranny oils?
Id like to see the trans oil heater setup.
@ I would use anti-gel additives if it gets that cold, but winter diesel usually has it covered. Heating pads stick to the oil pans to keep the oil warmer, I use T6 0w-40 oil in the winter.
My 1.9 tdi does -34f cold starts with no block heater. Battery tender ect.
If your engine is good shape there is no need for block heater unless it’s inferior design.
Like a diesel without glow plugs
Never had issues letting gassers idle. I high idle diesels to warm them up. If you drive right off you probably don't actually live in the cold
Exactly. This guy knows quite a lot of stuff about engines. Doesn't mean he's always right though 😅
As a diesel owner I high idle my truck in the winter on start up, if your not doing this and live in a cold climate where temps drop bellow freezing each morning then you should, I dont drive my truck right away, I remote start and let it warm up in the driveway, high idle does the same as driving without putting a load on your transmission which is at the same temp your engine is during cold start, let it high idle and as the coolant temp rises the trans cooler side of your radiator will warm your trany fluid up as well making both sides happy, for diesel additives I run Hot Shots EDT and 2 stroke oil, I have never had diesel gel in my truck during the winter since it is driven daily and always has 40+ gallons of fuel in its 62 gallon fuel tank, and oil changes are done every 5K miles with Rotella T5, 2006 Chevy LBZ Duramax with 206K miles, engine is stock besides bigger cold and hot side pipes, EGR no longer exists but it has the original turbo and injectors, no issues so far, zero blow by, no leaks and my injector balance rates are spot on.
2 stroke oil is probably the best anything with a little extra sulfur
Correct right on the money
Absolutely agree! I belive getting those Trans temps up along with coolant through high idle is the way to go.
what do you mean by high idle, how many
rpms ?
@@rotorblade9508Regular idle when cold in a duramax is about 700 and factory high idle is 1200. There’s a switch out there that adds 1200 1500 and 2000 rpm to idle it up
If your vehicle does not have one, add a block heater if you live in cold weather. Plug it in at night, plugging the extrnsion cord into a good quality timer inside or under a porch. Set timer to turn on block heater 30min to 1 hour before your departure. Turn HVAC to defrost & temperature to high. Your winfows will be clear & everything warm & ready to go. Be sure to run the extension cord out & up over the tire do if you forget to unplug it, the tire will.
Great way to get cracked windshield, slow warm up is the way to go.
@@litoaykiualthough a risk, I saw my father pour a bucket of hot water on his 2007 Mercedes benz sprinters windshield every winter, even at - 20°C, no cracks
I have always done this with my 2008 F250 diesel. The only time it idles in the winter is to melt ice off of the windows. If the windows are ice-free, I start it, put my seat belt on, and drive easy until it warms up. 304,000 miles and still runs great.
Actually he said 15 seconds, then drive. These new engines aren't the same as 25 years ago. In the 70's &80's we let big trucks idle all night in cold weather.
Best to use a little throttle (manual or electronic) and raise the ram's above idle by 1-200 rpm. Fuel economy raises and engine is dmother, more efficient with good oil pressure
My 2001 F350 has a high idle switch. This is what's recommended for all diesels that need to idle for extended periods. Preferably 1200-1500rpm.
Where I live, it gets to be -30 degrees C in Winter. You need more than 10-15 seconds after startup before you can drive the thing for sure. It takes a while for the high idle to come down on the gasoline cars and much longer in those conditions. I usually wait for the high idle to come down.
I ALWAYS wait for the idle to come down and the temp needle to move just a smidge. Then I'll pamper untill she's up to temp.
Mercedes Benz diesel 2005 (common rail) user manual: if temperatures outside get below -15C you can start using 5% petro/gasoline to aid the startig. Every 5 degrees C lower you can add 2.5-5% gasoline/petrol in the fuel tank
Since I retired, I only drive between 4,000- 5,000 miles a year. I still change the oil and filter twice a year because of the condensation that builds up with the seasonal temperature swings.
Condensation is used up during a proper drive cycle. That trip to 7-11 ain't gonna do it! That trip down the interstate will. The systems and lubricants will come to operating temperature for a long enough duration to vapor off any moisture. Short trippers are so easy to spot... The inside of the oil filler cap looks like a nice hot cuppa with heavy cream!! Sufficient drive cycle use does not do that unless head gaskets have let go or worse!
One thing about driving the vehicle in extreme conditions is the windshield factor. When its -30 you'll be a long time driving for that oil pan to heat up.
The word you’re looking for is “Windchill”.
Block heaters for gas and diesel make so much sense. Aftermarket options can be very useful as well.....
In Northern Europe (Sweden, Norway and Finland), most diesel car cars comes with a diesel Liquid Heater (at some point 70% of the cars was diesel, so a lot of experience) . Some units just run when the car is on, others can be used to preheat the engine and interior...
Thats like jumpin out of bed and heading straight out the door for a jog. Doesnt matter if you have synthetic oil or not, when its -35C that oil is gonna be like trying pour out syrup. Oil pressure will peg the gauge and the oil pump is working its hardest trying to pump that cold oil. I let my trucks and equipment warm up before it gets put in to gear. Cant comprehend the idea that its ok to drive away with frost on the crank. And there hasn't ever been anything mentioned about cold and contraction and heat and expansion. Be nice if Dave commented his theories with that. Even a pan heater helps, but gotta let the metals expand and do their thing. I totally agree with not letting an engine gas or diesel dead idle. If you can idle it up to get to normal oil pressure then thats all you need.
I don’t think Dave knows what real cold is! We let our tractors warm up for 30 min before heading out in the winter. Trying to leave the yard with a cold engine will get you a blown head gasket plenty fast.
@canadiansnowplowguy2852 blown headgssket and or blown apart oil filter. I had 2 early Duramax's that would blow the torque converter seals when it was -40
Transmissions love trying to do stuff when the fluid is -15 degrees and below. Dave, do an experiment with a trans with fluid thats 20 below, would be interested see what percentage of slippage it has.
He's not an engineer, thermodynamics arent considered.
I like to allow to idle enough to have the temperature gauge just start to move. Then drive light throttle until gauge gets halfway up
Same.
Same here! I never let my oil change intervals to go past 5k either.
This is exactly what Dave is saying… DONT do that. Let oil pressure get up to the head, then just drive the truck.
It’s a machine you start it then drive it - it doesn’t need to warm up it’s not grandma
@@themountainman2613 It's a high speed metal-on-metal machine with very tight clearances. The more gradually and uniformly you get the parts up to temperature, the better. So yes, it does need to warm up.
I own Semi trucks freightliners with old series 60s....i would Highly recommended Warming up any Iron block especially before just Operating.......now my little 2.4 in my 02 Toyota camry it doesn't matter car wont die 280k and still ticking...
This is a good way to blow head gaskets not letting it warm up. Diesel's only. Do yourself a favor and if its below 20 degrees plug it in or let it idle. Some good advise here and some poor. 300k + and original gaskets turbo etc. no leaks no issues. 100% coming from a Tech that works on Diesels let it warm up until the idle comes down. A normal diesel has a warm up cycle it performs until it reaches a certain temp. Every manufactures tune is different.
I have a '20 Subaru WRX. Since new I've let idle until the oil temp shows 86 degrees, the minimum it will register, then I start driving.
It doesn't burn oil between changes and I've zero mechanical problems in 85K miles.
I have a '25 Subaru Crosstrek. When I start it, it will idle at ~2000 rpm and I let it idle like that until it automatically drops to. 1000. I learned on this channel that direct injection vehicles need to warm up before put it under a load.
When I ran diesel I plugged in at any less than 40deg. Diesels run on heat and they start so much easier when warm.
I think what he means is drive it as soon as possible, for me i start it up, idle up to the gate, close it and then i drive like grandma untill i see the coolant temp come up, i never have jet black oil when i do my oil changes, it all makes sense
I remember there were mecedes engines that were so starved of oil on idle, that they would break if you let them idle to warm up...
I have an 04 6.0 and in my state in the south it gets cold sometimes below freezing maybe get some snow as well. I keep my heater on it plugged in even if it’s not below freezing. Now when I go to turn it on, I turn it on give it 15-20 minutes to warm up then roll of.
I don’t rev it like what Dave was “recommending” to do.
Feel free to drop a comment because I don’t quite understand the logic behind all of this.
TIA!
I tell my family, if you're going to let car idle cold don't run the darn heat inside the car until you're ready to drive - that only makes warm up 20x longer cause you're actually cooling the water and making it harder to get to temp - run the electric defroster. It's exponentially faster to let the motor warm up then add all the accessories than to turn everything on and wait...Dave, I use your technique with vehicles that are garaged cause windows are clear...when I have an ice cube outside I use mine and it seems to work well...
I agree, I’ve always told friends it’s more important that the car warms up first before you start stealing heat from the cooling system.
You are a good man, trying to educate people.
He's an engine builder, not an engineer, thermodynamics arent considered.
Wise words, Dave. When I was a kid my dad taught me to let the car warm up for several minutes (5-10) when it was say 20F or below. Well, in MN that's quite often so when I got my first car (99 Grand Marquis) and was going back home from work I'd start the car up, go back to my desk to gather my things and head out. I saw just how much fuel it was wasting and wondered if this was really necessary.
Every resource I've seen echoes what you have stated. When it's 32F or below I let it warm up for 30 seconds, sit another 10 seconds or so when I shift out of park, and gently go on my way. If it's say 10 F or below I'll let it warm up initially for a minute. I have plenty of time before I get on the freeway on the way to work for the engine to warm up especially with a brand new thermostat, but on the way home my office is basically next to the freeway and I don't want to push the cold engine hard on the onramp so sometimes I will slowly drive a few laps around the parking lot to warm it up that way. I've put 100K miles on that ES300 engine, and changed my oil every 5K or 6M, no issues at all.
We have an extended on ramp where I live, because it's uphill and there's a gravel pit nearby.
I'm the only car that actually uses the whole length in the morning, going slow seems to hurt people's feelings or something, they all floor it and spew white smoke out the rear end of their cold ass engines just so they can merge as quickly as possible
@AnalogWolf what do you do about frosty windows that haven't warmed up yet, obstructing visibility?
At the OEMs we would use ECT of 160F and EOT of 140F as the temperatures where the engine "should" be OK with a full load application. There were also other factors with TOT and differential lubricant temperature. Some engines needed 180F, otherwise cylinder heads would bend and cause combustion gas leaks into the cooling system. Other factors, such as windshield defrost requirements required engines to idle before driving. Is that why diesels have extra clap trap in their exhaust controls? Also, front cover AND cylinder cavitation damage happens, if bad cold driveaway advice is followed. Scuffing wear happens when the aluminum pistons expand faster than the iron block or liners. The piston bowl limits the advance that is possible for the injectors, so piston lip cracking happens when cold driveaway is too much. Unless someone works at the OEM in these specific development capacities, they just don't get the exposure to the data. On top of that, every driver or mechanic is an expert; just ask them. They are always smarter than a development engineer that spent his entire adult life on that topic, used as an expert to do that exact work for worldwide OEMs and the military.
High idle is important. If your windows are frozen don't start the rig a half hour early to get it "warm". Sit there with your foot on the pedal and keep it around 1500rpm until it's warm, or add a high idle system to the vehicle. Low idle is incredibly descructive and does very little to warm up the motor
Terrible idea if it’s -30 out, your windshield will crack. I’ve done it
Still haven’t addressed using high idle. I have gotten blackstone lab reports on every one of the oil changes on my 21’ Cummins. Deleted. No fuel whatsoever detected in the oil. I high idle my truck in the winter….im not talking about 32 degrees outside. I’m talking about in the negatives. I plug it in when I can. But up in the mountains at 10k feet I’m not just gonna drive my diesel “gently” cause when you start off you’re already on a freaking hill. High idle is for a reason. I use hotshots edt and winter edt. Oil change every 7500. Runs like a top. I idle it but within reason.
I have been telling people this for years had everyone from engineers to mechanics disagree with me. My old dodge with 6bt cummins could sit idling on a cold Canadian day for hours and it will never heat up, you absolutely should drive it easy until warmed up don't idle it! Toss a warm wool blanket in your diesel truck for the first 5min or 30min if you drive a 12v and it's -40. haha
Words to live by.
Even if you use full synthetic oil, let it idle for 5-10 minutes.
Got it.
The Midwest misery is bad with cold temperatures, tons of rock salt poured on the roads and highway and dealing with potholes and the darn orange barrels to highway construction closures.
Ugh
Facts. That’s why if you start up you vehicle and touch the side of your block you’ll instantly feel it go from cold to warm.
There is no cut and dry answer to this. Colder conditions dictate certain applications. Higher idle in extremely cold temps until the needle moves IMHO is when you should move the truck.
I put an espar hydronic on my vw diesel. I go out in the morning and the coolant temp is 140-150. After starting it i let it get oil circulating good and away i go with a warm engine.
Many disagree with your statement on cold starts. I have owned transports and equipment for many years and we always raise the idle and set until the coolent gage moves and then drive with minimal hp until up to operating temperature. The heads, block, transmission components are all made out of different alloys and react to temperature at different rates. By driving before engine is up to operating temperatures increases the probability of blown seals and gaskets.
Agreed comin from manitoba we had 3 days of -44C/ -47F this week and if we didn't have block heater/oil heaters there's no way we would've started up & made any money
My automotive teacher told me he would drain his oil out at night keep it in side and pour it in the morning that's how cold it was in Alberta Canada.
Works on old diesels with bad compression, too. Heat the engine oil to 180-190°F and pour it back in before starting. Safer and more reliable than ether. (Be careful heating the oil, keep a fire extinguisher handy!)
Seems like a lot of work but I’m sure it would work good, good option to consider if living off grid with no place to plug in.
Hit 200k today. I'm really grateful for all the knowledge and nuggets you had thrown my way over the last months. Started with 14k in June 2024
Congratulations on hitting the 200k milestone! That's an incredible growth from 14k in just a few months - what strategies or investments did you implement to achieve this remarkable success?🎉🎉
I'm beyond thrilled to see your progress! From 14k to 200k in such a short time is amazing. Would love to hear about your journey and the key decisions that led to this success.
Motivated by others' investment successes, I'm seeking ways to boost my income and independence from government support. What investment options or side hustles would you recommend?
DREAMS DO COME TRUE! Huge thanks to Elizabeth Marie Hawley, my financial guardian angel! Your wisdom and encouragement helped me achieve financial freedom. I couldn't have done it without you!
That's amazing! I'm excited to start my journey with her. Do you have any advice for someone just starting out?
At least wait till the RPM's reach the normal idling speed. That has heated the engine enough to run 'nomal' without driving it like you stole it. It takes from 25 to a 90 seconds depending on the car. Turbo engines need a lot more time to get the turbo a little bit of heat
So many people here disputing your advice, they will pay the price down the road. I know that and so does Dave.
If you live where it goes below 20°F regularly, get an electric block heater and use it !
Here in Iowa we have winter fuel so its not suppose to gel but it willl lol, so we add a fuel additive but on really cold days we plug them in so their warm when we start them, my old 7.3 ford I just plug it in and never had a problem with it but I do keep up with maintance on the truck fresh oil change before cold weather and good batteries and make sure the filters are all changed , love my 7.3 it has 260k on it and keeps running
I agree... but would add wait until u see your rpm gauge drop to idle rpm around 600 rpm. It may take more than 10 sec's to get to idle rpm. Another thing... I would do oil changes at half of manufacturers suggested maintenance interval.
I love in MN. It's been 0 degrees all week. I don't start any diesels without a block heater.
I usually have a quick smoke, hop in and go
That's Extremely hard on "your engine". ☆
I let my engine idle until it idles down. It always runs at higher rpm when first started cold. It usually takes 30 seconds to a minute to idle down when cold. Up to 2 minutes when it's very cold. In the summer months it idles down within just a few seconds, so I don't wait.
Same, I’ve had multiple mechanics tell me that’s what you should do.
Not all vehicles have that built in the cpu. Some, no matter how cold it is, drop straight to 650rpm after startup
@@SamSeth I have yet to ever see anything in the last 20 years that doesn’t..
@@Maynardd 2013 Ford 350 6.7l
2008 ram 5500 6.7l
Two work trucks I've had experience with that low idle on startup. Most others idle at 1k until they warm up. It's not universal
@ I had that exact ram, it didn’t do that… no car starts up and runs for example 600 RPMs. Every single car that starts runs a high idle.
7:00 those are words of wisdom “Do your maintenance “ don’t procrastinate and don’t wear shorts with flip flops 🩴 while you’re working on your truck show some respect and wear proper clothing and working boots 👀👋😊👋
Always start my engine, and in a minute or so I drive moderately to allow the transmission fluid to warm up as well before I hit the pedal at all. Duramax diesel, replaced 1 nox sensor in 170K miles, always change oil, fuel filters and additive in fuel, live in NH and it gets pretty cold on winter mornings around here
hard to drive it easy to warm it up when you live < 1 mile from the highway and merging requires a lot of throttle in a low power car
Just my road. I get chased down the road but dive off to a loop that takes me back to the road. An extra three minutes then it’s literally downhill for the next mile.
Same here. I take a longer route to an onramp to warm the engine before having to do any relatively hard acceleration. 1990 Ford 7.3 IDI Non Turbo.
Exactly, not everyone lives on a 4 mile gravel road, if everyone did then everyone could get up and drive.
7.3 and 6.0 powerstroke has injectors stiction during cold start. Archoil will eliminate 7.3 and 6.0 HEUI injectors stiction during the cold when it starts up.
Combustion causes the most heat. Let your engine warm up before driving. Mechanics want you to destroy your engine
The thing is Hybrid cars when you start them the battery turns it on. The motor is actually off. What I do is I drive it really slow as im getting out of my condo and by the time I make it to the main road is already warm. Then I drive it normally
So what does diesel pickups have an elevated idle feature from factory, Dave? Come to Canada in January when it's -50 and we'll show you why elevated idle is such a thing.
A. you should be using a block heater primarily, And yes people up in Canada need high idle for when you park somewhere where you don't have one. But it's not like you need to use that unless it's Sub-Zero which generally doesn't happen much in the lower 40 ish states, where 90% of people live.
As someone that developed cold start and cold warmup for diesel engine and gasoline engine manufacturers for 2+ decades, it is interesting to hear what others think about cold start and driveaway. I would spend 1-3 months of my life each year, cold starting and doing driveability and durability work in northern Minnesota and Canada. Pre-work and cleanup work would be done in cold trailers and cold sheds at $2200 to 2800 per day.
My lessons and experience are interesting with an IndiCom2 and even an IndiMaster in the old days, million dollar combustion analyzers. We paid attention to a lot of things. It was awful work where it hurt the body with the cold. We didn't put dumb engineers on those jobs. The cold start work was that important.
Please give us more information.
The EPA put a lot of pressure on the OEMs as part of our AECDs to get the catalysts working ASAP, and they flooded the media with "fast warmup" bad advice. The fastest warmup and best practices are different.
The odds of the oil filter going into bypass mode are high, if the fast warmup advice is followed. Cavitation damage is also higher until the ECT and EOT warms up, maybe 150F and 140F.
Do people really believe that piston to cylinder friction is that high? That heat is nothing.
What you need to know; from cold northern Saskatchewan: install an engine block heater, and a coolant heater that also heats up the interior. You're welcome.
up here in minnesota if you start an engine look at oil pressure see if it builds right away the oil pump may not prime correctly if uou dont get oil pressure right away shut it off wait 30 seconds restart it gemerally the second te it will pripe cotrectly watch oil pressure dont put under load till it starts come down once things start to warm up a minute or two idle it up to a grand till oil pressure comes down some then you wont destroy it in sub zero weather
Never heard of a car breaking down for warming up to long
I had an isuzu npr, it had exhaust brake, and would also act as a warm up feature with the flip of a switch.. great little 3.9L diesel..
Great advice depending on time of year for some of us! Were I live in East Tennessee we get big temp swings between daytime and nighttime. It will be 60 and raining during the day and into the early evening and turn to snow and 25 degrees overnight! Leaving you with an iced over car in the driveway with 1/4” of ice on the windshield. I’ve yet to find an ice scraper good enough to clear the windshield in a hurry short of using ice melt in conjunction but at $5-$10 a can depending on brand that gets very expensive quickly!
Sometimes we don’t have a choice cause the doors are frozen shut as well so even if we clear the windshield with a scraper and chemicals we’re still locked out of the vehicle till it warms up enough to thaw the ice around the doors! I’ve actually broken door handles trying to open the door on a few mornings I was running late! Without auto start I’d have to get the heat gun or risk pouring water of the door sills. Which depending on outside temperature just freezes instantly or risk cracking glass!
A few years back I was locked out of my truck in such a way, at 1 in the morning (late shift at work). Ice storm rolled through, caked the entire truck in nearly 1/2 inch of ice. If I didn't have remote start, I'd have had to sleep at my work site and go home in the morning--thankfully the truck warmed itself up and I got in about 20 minutes later.
i always changed oil filter at 5k, had a block heater, and put additive in fuel
Here we go again: it’s never about the engine as much as it is about warming up the transmission fluid before you drive off. That’s why transmission fluid runs through radiator to warm up so it wouldn’t shift hard on cold fluids where most damage occurs that way.
Dave you are truly blessed, thank you for sharing your knowledge 🙏🏽
I've been screaming about this for years and my friends always say "aren't you going to let it warm up" yeah by driving gently down the road while I watch the needle rise lol my 7.3l takes way too long to warm up under idle
Preach, brother.
This is why we need to bring back shop classes to HS in the United States!
Thank you, Dave!
I’ve been looking for that answer!
Great video and great job as always!
Love this because I went to automotive tech school in 70s it had no diesel training. I know nothing this channel Is awesome 👊🏻
if the oil is thick there will be some load and you could add by turning on lights or maybe AC. I think there is an optimal start up pattern like: let it idle for 30s then vary rpm from 1000 to 1500rpm for 2 minutes then up to 2000rpm for 30s then drive off. 2500rpm max until oil reaches 50C . when the oil is cold high rmps put more stress on the oil pump and distributor pump driver
Oil temp took 10 minutes to get over 100 last night here in MN... -5 deg F.
Yep I live in Wisconsin & had -14 where I'm at just the other night & that was with no wind-chill and I live in a rural area so I always let my vehicle run for a while because none of them have block heaters. Been doing this for 40 years and have yet to have any problems with the engines in a variety of cars and trucks I've had through those years but I also change my oil be it on a vehicle that uses synthetic or dino oil every 3,000 miles with a new oil filter and I think by doing these short oil change intervals helps with getting any moisture & unburned fuel out of the oil when doing these low mile oil changes. Got to remember oil is cheap blown engines aren't . I've had on some winter clear nights with no wind-chill where the outside thermometer has dipped into -27 below so it gets damn cold out here at times compared to the cities . Most of these new vehicles once started the idle comes down pretty quickly where as my old 82 K10 that I put a 400 SBC in it that's carbureted I can go out and push the gas pedal 2 times and it fires right up & will stay in its high idle until I kick the idle down so when I go out to start it in cold winter weather I just leave it in its high idle with the defrost on & go in the house and wait for 15 minutes and it's warmed up & ready to plow my driveway with it after I step on the throttle to get the choke to fully open up and the high idle comes down to regular idle speed . These new vehicles are designed so you start them & let them come down on high idle then start driving which where we live your going to freeze your ass off by the time it warms up lol unless you got long johns on & insulated coveralls on & a heavy winter jacket and good insulated boots on .
Old tow head once told me he’s never had to tow a car because it was warming up in the drive way
yep, I have been letting my vehicles warm up for 40 plus years .Never a problem with a engine. Other things yes, but never a engine
I use seafoam as my cold weather additive in all diesels. 11 diesel engines running great in Wisconsin. It works great for anti gel and fuel cleaner. It works great with the cherry 🍒 flavor diesel also..
Ha! That wasn’t a floppy disc.
I live on the gulf coast of Texas so down here we don’t get that cold. When I start my truck on a cold start I always let it idle down from 1000 rpm to 600 rpm before putting my truck in drive and taking off. I figure the oil is sufficiently warm enough once the idle settles down after start up to drive.
huge amount of experience 👍🏻👍🏻 great to learn from that 😁
Thank goodness my 2001 Excursion has a factory installed heater block
High idle if needing to let the truck idle. It avoids cylinder wall washing. Cummins with the exhaust brake. Kick that on to put a small load and get heat faster.
GMC recommends high idle for a couple of mins when below freezing on my 2024 6.6L Duramax. And can be activated in the vehicle settings.
I live in Saskatoon Canada it gets in the winter to up her -20 up to - 60 block heaters are a must because if the temperature gets to -40 or low you will crack the block on a diesel maybe not the first time but it will happen diesel have a higher compression we have to let our vehicles idle until the engine warms up because where we’re at if you don’t do that, you hurt the motor different provinces are warmer or colder same as the states one state can be warmer. One state could be cooler. .
Thanks from Australia
So I agree with warming my engine up this way. My truck is 5.0 2016 f 150, have u experienced harsh shift 2-3 gear within half a km?
Ist der Motor kalt, gib ihn sechseinhalb. it´s just fun Dave, happy Christmas and happy new Year
Thank you Dave!
For guys who have sports cars that don’t drive them in the winter and keep them in a semi heated garage about 40° but just start them up every 2 or 3 days just to keep the oil circulating and to keep the valve train coated with oil, after you started your car and your oil temperature gets up to 100° should you kick up the idle to like 500 or 600 RPM since you’re not actually driving it and because you said you want the oil to splash around. I usually let my car run until my thermostat opens up, which is like 203° and then I shut off after about a minute, the whole process takes about 12 to 13 minutes. I was wondering what your thoughts were for us guys with sports cars that don’t drive in the winter.
hey dave keep up the good work i love your vids!
What about using a high idle switch, would that be acceptable?
I would like to send a big shout-out to you and your TEAM at DAVE'S AUTO CENTER, I hale from Ontario, Canada and have done exactally what you tell your follower's, my 5.3 supercharged/tuned for speed 2014 Yukon get's a little warm up before take-off and with regular maintenence has never let me down!
Damn i been drinkin and smokin my whole life. 😂😢
Additives like that secret sauce or other reputable brands of diesel winter & general additives are needed and beneficial but the main thing to add to your modern diesel to insure years of affordable service is add an extended warranty, or you will 100% regret not doing it.
CONDITION
CAUSE
CORRECTION
CONFIRM
Dave is a pro! He's on point. I love how he freely shares knowledge. We need more of this in this world! Cheers to Dave and his crew.
Pity about those pesky Google reviews...
I've always had experiences with additives that made zero difference, snake oil most of the time. Recently, I've had an ECM issue with my diesel that doesn't cycle the glow plugs properly. I tried hot shot secret EDT and it 100% helps on cold starts here in Oregon.
I'm a fan of after a cold start, allow the revs to drop from the initial high, then drive away GENTLY. Be kind to the engine, transmission and they'll be kind to you.
2 Questions;
What would you recommend to add to diesel fuel during the colder months to prevent the fuel from jelling up?
And after starting the vehicle would just revving up the engine r.p.m. be good enough to get heat into the oil?
Thanks Dave!
5kw webasto diesel heater works wonders in both my cars here in sweden
Right on Dave thank you for your advice you definitely are the motor master, probably save a lot of people a lot of money and a lot of headaches by your knowledge thank you very much
Plug in your truck let the block heater do it’s job. Canadian for 72 years. Do not rev the engine just slowly pull away and accelerate moderately. The block heater makes all the difference to my diesel. Truck warms up to operating temp within minutes.
How do you SEE out of the windshield???????
From an advertising viewpoint, this is how to sell a product. Educate people so they understand why they should use your product.
I’ve been torn on engine idling. I have engine heaters on all my vehicles (gas and a diesel) I do my best to always plug them in when it’s below freezing, then I double down and let them idle too.
It’s videos like these that change opinions, no “don’t do this because I said so” you actually prove it with facts.
I like the detail you give to us. I always learn something watching you.