Bill, you’re the best electrician on here and you really make it simple for the viewers to understand... these switch videos are the best... freakin sweet... have a safe week sir...👍👍👍
Thank you Mr bill the electrician, your are just a teacher that explain every step and make it as simple as it is to an easy DIY , keep it going and real…
Just used this as my guide to convert a pull lite to 2 separate switched overhead lights in my attic conversion. Thank you for making sense of this.. Honestly it was still a little confusing until I saw it firsthand then it made total sense.
Love your demonstrations and explain the NEC code. Love the wago connectors. Wish you would do a curly q in the box, so that the wires have a nice bend (almost like a coil). I think of when the device might be serviced in the future. Otherwise, please keep the videos coming - I've learned so much on this channel.
...noticed a small error in your reading ...when reading about securing and supporting Romex ..you have said within 300 meters vs 300 mm (millimeters ) .....luckily there will be not much of confusion as the text is mentioning in parentheses the inches too.thank you so much for all your informative videos ...really like it when you make references on the code too.
Yes. Do exactly what he did, but use the white wire going from the light to the switch as an extra "hot" and mark it with red or black tape. Connect that wire exactly how he connects the red wire in the video. The real neutral white wire coming from the power line into the light box should just connect straight to the fan.
The black wire is the constant hot, the red wire is the switched hot for the light fixture. Here's a schematic of the wiring: www.sanier.de/wp-content/uploads/images/schaltplan-ausschaltung-kerp.jpg This is a european schematic, so the colours of the wires are different. The brown wire on this is schematic is the red one in the video. In Europe the neutral is blue, so in this video it is white. But white line on white ground would be silly. Green/yellow striped is the ground. That schematic is only about a regular switch, not for such modern ones which also require a neutral for the functionality. But to understand how a switched circuit is working the neutral is not necessary. The left upper square would be a junction box, left lower one is the switch and the circle with the X is the symbol for a lamp.
Hey spark..great video! My thought is..how would this be wired if you used a 12-2 instead of a 12-3? My boss calls it a dead end switch leg. Any chance on making a video using 12-2? Is that not code? Just curious as I encountered this last week but with 12-2.
Yeah, it's probably fairly common to run two 12/2 cables from the light to the switch box. One cable for the switch and the other for the neutral with an extra conductor. Edit: Or rather I meant to say two 14/2.
I’m not sure if he used the Knipex plastic pliers, but here’s what it appears to be www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-7-in-1-000-Volt-Insulated-Long-Nose-Plastic-Pliers-98-62-01/205944289
Pretty sure this falls under house maintenance, and if it's your house...well:). Be careful, test circuit using hot cold hot testing, turn circuit off. And if ur that nervous you can take sparky's advice and contact ur local AHJ.
Thanks so much. Do you have a video on a sub panel? I live in an old house with only four outlets, 2 in the kitchen, 1 in the livingroom and one on the back porch. None in the two bedrooms and none in the bathroom. All light fixtures are pull string. The ceiling lights are all on one breaker and the 4 outlets are on one breaker. So I want to add more outlets and wall switches.
Why not use 12-3 from switch to light. Series connect all like wires. Less work, should work fine. What am I missing? Is it a new code or requirement based on switch type?
Alright so I have two lights in my storage room that are pull chains. I want to add a switch to control both lights. When I add a switch I’ll have to pull power from w/e is in the box and then I have to add a switch leg. I’m thinking about double switch legging the lights and running a power down to the switch. So 3 wires (2 SL’s and 1 pwr). That should work, yea?
Go to kliens website and become a member of the tradesman's club. U get points for things u do and a wheel to spin every month. U can use the points to redeem free tools, even a dual voltage tester!!!
@@pointedspider The best thing is a two-pole voltage tester. They also measure DC, these pen testers are only able to detect AC. If you have a PV installation you got a high DC voltage in your house (690VDC) between the panels and the inverter. And on electric vehicles it's the same, battery voltage is in the range of 400VDC and above. It would become a bad day if you get in touch with it.... And Klein also got such two-pole testers. But these pen testers are quite handy for some applications, but I wouldn't trust them so far to use them for proofing if the circuit is really dead. I got one which is really eating up batteries. It's not only detecting voltage, it can also indicate the direction of the rotating field in a three-phase system (clockwise or counter-clockwise).
Sir, I recently purchased a pull chain light. It has a black, white and ground wire. I want to make it so I can plug it into an outlet. The outlet wire I purchased only has a black and white wire, no copper ground. How do I make this connection??? Please help.
very good other than you didn't specify the type of wall switch you were using, was the switch a 3 way, or single pole? looks like you used a 3 way switch. and you also didn't specify a why a 3 wire vs a 2 wire cable from pull chain to switch was used.
Question: As an alternative to making a switch loop with 12/3 romex, could you have done the following? 1. Run a 12/2 w/ground romex cable from the light box to the switch box, then splice those wires together in the light box. Essentially using the light box as a junction box to lengthen the original cable. 2. Run a 12/2 romex switch leg back to the light box. Please let me know if this would work. Let's assume one didn't have 12/3 romex on hand and also the switch box has appropriate volume.
It's new code to make sure that light switches have a neutral for future expansion of smart switches, etc. You can certainly do this with 12/2 if you just want to get it done. Do exactly what he did, but use the white wire going from the light to the switch as an extra "hot" and mark it with red or black tape. Connect that wire exactly how he connects the red wire in the video. The real neutral white wire coming from the power line into the light box should just connect straight to the light.
Bill, you’re the best electrician on here and you really make it simple for the viewers to understand... these switch videos are the best... freakin sweet... have a safe week sir...👍👍👍
Thanks Rob, you have a great week as well!
Amen. I really enjoy his videos.
Thank you Mr bill the electrician, your are just a teacher that explain every step and make it as simple as it is to an easy DIY , keep it going and real…
I am doing a closet and enjoyed your video, just to refresh my memory on this project. You do a nice job on your videos.
Hey Bill! Before your channel was hacked, u were uploading NEC 2020 codes! Please resume that content. I loved it!
I do have several NEC code videos on this channel. I think that's a great idea, thanks!
Just used this as my guide to convert a pull lite to 2 separate switched overhead lights in my attic conversion. Thank you for making sense of this.. Honestly it was still a little confusing until I saw it firsthand then it made total sense.
Fantastic! Thanks Mike!
@@SparkyChannel ill need you when i get into my basement wiring LOL
Lining up the plate screws vertical is an awesome attention to detail!
Right on!
Love your demonstrations and explain the NEC code. Love the wago connectors. Wish you would do a curly q in the box, so that the wires have a nice bend (almost like a coil). I think of when the device might be serviced in the future. Otherwise, please keep the videos coming - I've learned so much on this channel.
I was wondering how I wasn’t subscribed to your channel any longer! I love your videos! You are awesome 👍❤️ thank you for all your help 😊
Welcome back! Yeay!!!! Thanks Erica!
This guy is the man. Thank you Bill
Thanks George!
...noticed a small error in your reading ...when reading about securing and supporting Romex ..you have said within 300 meters vs 300 mm (millimeters ) .....luckily there will be not much of confusion as the text is mentioning in parentheses the inches too.thank you so much for all your informative videos ...really like it when you make references on the code too.
Can this be done with a 12-2 and ceiling fan/light?
Yes. Do exactly what he did, but use the white wire going from the light to the switch as an extra "hot" and mark it with red or black tape. Connect that wire exactly how he connects the red wire in the video. The real neutral white wire coming from the power line into the light box should just connect straight to the fan.
Great video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us! (Cool wire nuts btw)
CAN YOU USE 14/2 OR 14/3 INSTEAD OF 12/3
I don’t get the red third wire. Why not just tie the hot from feed to light to switch and same for neutrals and grounds?
The black wire is the constant hot, the red wire is the switched hot for the light fixture. Here's a schematic of the wiring:
www.sanier.de/wp-content/uploads/images/schaltplan-ausschaltung-kerp.jpg
This is a european schematic, so the colours of the wires are different. The brown wire on this is schematic is the red one in the video. In Europe the neutral is blue, so in this video it is white. But white line on white ground would be silly. Green/yellow striped is the ground.
That schematic is only about a regular switch, not for such modern ones which also require a neutral for the functionality. But to understand how a switched circuit is working the neutral is not necessary. The left upper square would be a junction box, left lower one is the switch and the circle with the X is the symbol for a lamp.
@@Marcel_Germann excellent Marcel!! That makes sense now!! He didn’t explain that in video and glad u did
can i install a pull chain light fixture with no light switch
I also wish to know this
Hey spark..great video! My thought is..how would this be wired if you used a 12-2 instead of a 12-3?
My boss calls it a dead end switch leg. Any chance on making a video using 12-2? Is that not code? Just curious as I encountered this last week but with 12-2.
Yeah, it's probably fairly common to run two 12/2 cables from the light to the switch box. One cable for the switch and the other for the neutral with an extra conductor.
Edit: Or rather I meant to say two 14/2.
Why do you need to do two wires if you are not using a new “smart” switch? I don’t see why you need a neutral wire
Hi Bill! Great video! What is the tool you used at 10:45 to push the wires in the box?
I’m not sure if he used the Knipex plastic pliers, but here’s what it appears to be
www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-7-in-1-000-Volt-Insulated-Long-Nose-Plastic-Pliers-98-62-01/205944289
Its a volt claw. I learned about it on here and bought one. Very nice and well made useful tool
So explanative and I understood a lot. thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks!
This video was a huge help! Thanks!
Glad it helped!
heu Bill you are like me from the old school, you tightened the plate screws both verticle WELL DONE
LOL! Yes, that's the way we do it! 😊
Hi there. Quick question. Does doing this require a permit with or without an open wall? Thanks.
That's a good question. I think you could argue that you're just replacing a switch but I would ask your local inspector.
Pretty sure this falls under house maintenance, and if it's your house...well:). Be careful, test circuit using hot cold hot testing, turn circuit off. And if ur that nervous you can take sparky's advice and contact ur local AHJ.
I may have to do this for my closet light. I ALWAYS break that stupid chain.
Sounds good! ⚡🤘
Sparky, the regular leviton decora also has back wire and says spec grade on the mounting strap.
Excellent! I love seeing mounting straps. That's a quality feature.
Is it possible you can do a video of going from the line wire to multiple lights, then going to the switch?
Thanks so much. Do you have a video on a sub panel? I live in an old house with only four outlets, 2 in the kitchen, 1 in the livingroom and one on the back porch. None in the two bedrooms and none in the bathroom. All light fixtures are pull string. The ceiling lights are all on one breaker and the 4 outlets are on one breaker. So I want to add more outlets and wall switches.
Were are definitely living in the same house. Did you manage to find info on this particular situation?
@sikiskee : no, bought most of what I need, now just have to get at it. Thanks.
Why not use 12-3 from switch to light. Series connect all like wires. Less work, should work fine. What am I missing? Is it a new code or requirement based on switch type?
Can you do a video of how to fix a hot/ground reversed receptacle.
Alright so I have two lights in my storage room that are pull chains. I want to add a switch to control both lights. When I add a switch I’ll have to pull power from w/e is in the box and then I have to add a switch leg. I’m thinking about double switch legging the lights and running a power down to the switch. So 3 wires (2 SL’s and 1 pwr). That should work, yea?
Great video Sparky!
Thanks!
The first Klein voltage tester amazon link is not working. Thanks for the video!
Go to kliens website and become a member of the tradesman's club. U get points for things u do and a wheel to spin every month. U can use the points to redeem free tools, even a dual voltage tester!!!
@@pointedspider The best thing is a two-pole voltage tester. They also measure DC, these pen testers are only able to detect AC. If you have a PV installation you got a high DC voltage in your house (690VDC) between the panels and the inverter. And on electric vehicles it's the same, battery voltage is in the range of 400VDC and above. It would become a bad day if you get in touch with it....
And Klein also got such two-pole testers.
But these pen testers are quite handy for some applications, but I wouldn't trust them so far to use them for proofing if the circuit is really dead. I got one which is really eating up batteries. It's not only detecting voltage, it can also indicate the direction of the rotating field in a three-phase system (clockwise or counter-clockwise).
I have a pull chain light can I power it threw an 15amp outlet
I’m going to be converting some of my basement lights to this because I hate pull string lights.
Can you feature a romex wire wheel in a possible future video, I hear this things are awesome. I've seen the wire wheel 415D, looks great.
When are you going to another video on how to put bathroom fan and light on different current
Yes, it's coming.
Sir, I recently purchased a pull chain light. It has a black, white and ground wire. I want to make it so I can plug it into an outlet. The outlet wire I purchased only has a black and white wire, no copper ground. How do I make this connection??? Please help.
Get yourself a different wire with a ground!
This is something on my to do list, I appreciate your expert guidance!
Thanks Leah!
very good other than you didn't specify the type of wall switch you were using, was the switch a 3 way, or single pole? looks like you used a 3 way switch. and you also didn't specify a why a 3 wire vs a 2 wire cable from pull chain to switch was used.
Can you make a video how to wire home electrical panel
I am planning to.
@@SparkyChannel thanks
Great review for me!!! Thanks!!!! Judie
You are so welcome! Thanks Judie!
@Sparky Channel Thanks for the video. I have a question. Is it possible to have a combo switch instead? Thanks
Yes, it would be possible.
@@SparkyChannel Alright. Imma try based on your other channel. I'm confident enough. Thanks
Good demo Bill ...
Thanks Eddy, have a great day!
You didn't actually "convert" a pull chain fixture, you just "replaced" it with a different one. Still, very informative... Thank you!
Good video Sparky. .
Thanks Gary! 👍
Question:
As an alternative to making a switch loop with 12/3 romex, could you have done the following?
1. Run a 12/2 w/ground romex cable from the light box to the switch box, then splice those wires together in the light box. Essentially using the light box as a junction box to lengthen the original cable.
2. Run a 12/2 romex switch leg back to the light box.
Please let me know if this would work. Let's assume one didn't have 12/3 romex on hand and also the switch box has appropriate volume.
It's new code to make sure that light switches have a neutral for future expansion of smart switches, etc. You can certainly do this with 12/2 if you just want to get it done. Do exactly what he did, but use the white wire going from the light to the switch as an extra "hot" and mark it with red or black tape. Connect that wire exactly how he connects the red wire in the video. The real neutral white wire coming from the power line into the light box should just connect straight to the light.
Why not just use 12-2. 12-3 is to confusin
So he can have a neutral
Subtítulos español gracias
😷🍻🍺
Cheers with a beer! 😷🍻🍺
Typical Murican approach "bigger is better". 14 cu in box is more than enough for this.
Oh and your plastic boxes are a joke.
As long as it meets NEC, I'm good with it.