I have never been able to print double sided & have the artwork centered correctly on both sides. My printer seems to offset the images so there is always a noticeable difference along the borders between front & back sides. Therefore I have to print a single side at a time on sticker paper & form a sandwich, w/ a layer of cardstock in the middle. I can line up the the front & backside artwork perfectly using a lightbox I purchased for that purpose. I'd rather just print two sided but it's too imprecise w/ my particular printer model. Edit: I discovered your other video on dealing w/ alignment issues, will try it going forward, thanks!
i always put my cards in a sleeve, but i really like the idea of laminating them like this. i might try that out on my next one to see how it goes. and holy crap the rounded corner cutter! it instantly makes the cards look so much better. i badly need to get one.
I have the sheets and a laminator...I prefer full US letter to be laminated with the laminator, but sheets work just fine for cards :-) I don't use them often, but this video has helped me to see how I might start using them (and correctly lol).
This is a great technique. I really like the adhesive laminate idea. I glue two normal paper sides onto a card stock core, then spray with flat clear. I do that to keep my ink cost down, but I wonder if printing out color pages at FedEx is actually more expensive.
I have a video that talks about my technique here: th-cam.com/video/OIk0zI4oB3c/w-d-xo.html I have an HP Envy 7645 and it works well with this technique
Thanks for the great video. It seems that cutting out cards from a laminated sheet of cards would make it so the front and backs of the cards are laminated, but not the sides. Are there any issues with this, such as peeling, sticky sides, etc?
They do have they same brand on Amazon.co.uk: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07QR7QW72/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_MRVC3K18AJWRXK48YZRP These may work as well, but are slightly heavier weight, so I'm not sure: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NA8MANE/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_QRRC4BQ0YAAHZPY1EH8X
Well, it’s what I’m printing with and it works great. Maybe the spec is if you want the printer to duplex print itself for double sided prints. I never do that. I print one side, then take it out (usually trim a little) then put it back in the paper tray and print the second side.
@@boardgameprojects Thanks! I spent a fair amount of time going back to my local Kelly Paper branch, trying different papers there to get the closest to playing card cardstock I could. The super heavy weight stuff was the closest I could find, especially for the stiffness and spring feel of cards being shuffled. Especially when I started getting into larger size cards, it started becoming apparent that not all cardstock was a good fit for the job. One thing a friend explained that clarified a lot was that the gsm rating was the actual weight of the paper, and the 110lb rating was the strength of the paper, not its weight (or thickness). It's a confusing rating system. A 110lb paper is paper that survives a test where they put a 110lb weight on a sheet of paper, and the paper is strong enough to hold it without tearing. Maybe that's because it's very thick paper. Or maybe it's because it has longer fibers, or more cotton, or something else giving it strength. You can have thicker or thinner papers, stiffer or springier papers all in the same lb rating. That's as far as I got in understanding what makes a paper more like "playing card" cardstock. Once I started trying digging deeper than that, the representatives at the paper store made some vague mentions about various terms like the "tooth" of the paper but couldn't really explain further how to find suitable cardstock for playing cards. That's why I've fixated on the gsm rather than the lb rating of the paper. It's the closest approximation I've found for a rating that gets me closer to what good card makers use.
I'm not certain how to calculate that. This is the product details page from their website, perhaps that will help? www.fellowes.com/us/en/products/product-details.aspx?prod=us-5221502
If you want to have great PnP cards, with much fewer work and much less plastic waste: Just print out the cards on normal paper, cut them out, put them into a cardsleeve (not the transparent ones) together with an old mtg card or something similar for stabilization. Maybe you ask now: How is this cheaper and causing less plastic waste? My answer: Lets be honest. You need a card game only as long as you are interessted in it. And as soon as this isnt the case any longer, just through away the paperprinting to reuse the sleeves as well as the stabilisation card again for the next pnp game. voila.
I totally agree. I like the method I show on this video for games I want to keep and play a long time. I have a video that shows how to do what you describe in fact and its really nice and easy to try out games: th-cam.com/video/wOzwFYLE-rA/w-d-xo.html
Do you have access to Adobe Illustrator? I know that is a professional level tool that my designer friends use. Or perhaps if you have a tablet (iPad / Android / Surface) you could use the software on there to start?
@@boardgameprojects i have the adobe illustrator but only the trial version, i simply don't know how buying it works, especially when my country's currency is in Pesos i really don't get it. Right now i downloaded inkscape and autodesk sketchbook too, and see which one is better to use and closer to photoshop.
My favorite is PNP Arcade: www.pnparcade.com/ They have all the Button Shy games and other interesting options. PNP Paradise is another option: www.pnpparadise.com/ Lastly, many Kickstarters have PNP options these days which I can back for a small amount and try the game out if it looks good!
Any suggestions for printers? I have a Brother laser now, but it's monochrome. There's an ink jet in my home by Canon, but sadly 65 lbs stock gets jammed so I can't use it.
I have an HP Envy 7640. It does print well on Card Stock so that's good. However, I think I'd look into one of those ink tank printers in the future to help save my wallet on the ink costs!
@@boardgameprojects Yes, ink is the killer isn't? Good suggestion(s) and many thanks for taking the time to reply. I'm going to do some research this weekend for sure.
I don't have a good way to measure exactly unfortunately. I may be able to guesstimate on a ruler and get back to you. They feel good, but not really thick. Also, this laminate is more pliable so the can bend a little like real cards. The cut edges are not sharp when put through the paper cutter I use.
No, I use a heavier card stock: Exact Index, 8.5" x 11", 110 lb / 199gsm, White Cardstock Paper: amzn.to/2L8ypOh Springhill 8.5” x 11”, 110lb / 199gsm, Ivory Colored Cardstock Paper: amzn.to/3qvUCWS
I have never been able to print double sided & have the artwork centered correctly on both sides. My printer seems to offset the images so there is always a noticeable difference along the borders between front & back sides. Therefore I have to print a single side at a time on sticker paper & form a sandwich, w/ a layer of cardstock in the middle. I can line up the the front & backside artwork perfectly using a lightbox I purchased for that purpose. I'd rather just print two sided but it's too imprecise w/ my particular printer model. Edit: I discovered your other video on dealing w/ alignment issues, will try it going forward, thanks!
i always put my cards in a sleeve, but i really like the idea of laminating them like this. i might try that out on my next one to see how it goes. and holy crap the rounded corner cutter! it instantly makes the cards look so much better. i badly need to get one.
Let me know how if goes! I have links to all the tools I use in the Description of this video :)
Laminating is an amazing idea. Thank you!!
Happy to help!
I was thinking I needed a laminator, but those sheets look like they will work great. Thanks!
Let me know if you try it out this technique and how it works out. Thanks for watching!
I have the sheets and a laminator...I prefer full US letter to be laminated with the laminator, but sheets work just fine for cards :-) I don't use them often, but this video has helped me to see how I might start using them (and correctly lol).
@@RCRice Let me know if you give it a try or have any questions!
Those look great! Thanks for making this video
Glad you liked it!
Very impressive job 😁
This is a great technique. I really like the adhesive laminate idea. I glue two normal paper sides onto a card stock core, then spray with flat clear. I do that to keep my ink cost down, but I wonder if printing out color pages at FedEx is actually more expensive.
I did try that technique, but it didn't stick with me so I kept trying. But, hey, whatever works for you is the right technique!
Thanks a really helpful guide, subscribed!
Great to hear, thanks!
nice making a game project is a fun occupation all in it 's own right
Thanks! Yea, its a nice activity that is you end up with something fun to play with at the end. I find it calming too.
Enjoy!
Subbed. Thanks for the video!
Awesome thanks!
How did you get the front and back side of the cards to align so well? What printer do you use?
I have a video that talks about my technique here: th-cam.com/video/OIk0zI4oB3c/w-d-xo.html
I have an HP Envy 7645 and it works well with this technique
Great video! The link you share Fellowes Self-Laminating Sheets one no long available. Do you have another one recommend? Thanks
Google or search Amazon for "Fellowes Laminating Sheets Self Adhesive 9x12 3 Mil Gloss 50 Pack"
where did you get the pdf of these beautiful designed cards to print the them?
Here's a link to the site I used: www.pnparcade.com/products/wonder-tales
Thanks for the great video. It seems that cutting out cards from a laminated sheet of cards would make it so the front and backs of the cards are laminated, but not the sides. Are there any issues with this, such as peeling, sticky sides, etc?
No that I have seen, no. It has held up surprisingly well
Thank for the guide but it would be helpful if you you include a UK link for at least the paper you used?
Other than that all is good.
I'll see what I can find!
They do have they same brand on Amazon.co.uk: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07QR7QW72/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_MRVC3K18AJWRXK48YZRP
These may work as well, but are slightly heavier weight, so I'm not sure: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NA8MANE/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_QRRC4BQ0YAAHZPY1EH8X
What printer do you use that allows such heavy stock?
I have an HP Envy 7645. Check out my Printer Alignment video to see how I print on both sides and make it work.
@@boardgameprojects the doc for the printer says 76 lb paper max. Guess it handles 100+ that you use?
Well, it’s what I’m printing with and it works great. Maybe the spec is if you want the printer to duplex print itself for double sided prints. I never do that. I print one side, then take it out (usually trim a little) then put it back in the paper tray and print the second side.
Do we need special printers for the thicker papers?
I don't believe so. If you only print one side at a time, then the thickness shouldn't affect the printing.
How to make that 3x3 grid A4 paper anyway?
Great question. I didn't do the graphic design or layout on these sheets, so I'm don't have any help for you there, sorry.
What printer do you use? I've had problems with printers jamming (multiple models, even some prosumer ones) when used with 300gsm cardstock.
I have an HP Envy 7640 and it works great on the 200 gsm cardstock I use. I flip it myself though. I haven't tried 300 gsm cardstock.
@@boardgameprojects Thanks!
I spent a fair amount of time going back to my local Kelly Paper branch, trying different papers there to get the closest to playing card cardstock I could. The super heavy weight stuff was the closest I could find, especially for the stiffness and spring feel of cards being shuffled. Especially when I started getting into larger size cards, it started becoming apparent that not all cardstock was a good fit for the job.
One thing a friend explained that clarified a lot was that the gsm rating was the actual weight of the paper, and the 110lb rating was the strength of the paper, not its weight (or thickness). It's a confusing rating system.
A 110lb paper is paper that survives a test where they put a 110lb weight on a sheet of paper, and the paper is strong enough to hold it without tearing. Maybe that's because it's very thick paper. Or maybe it's because it has longer fibers, or more cotton, or something else giving it strength. You can have thicker or thinner papers, stiffer or springier papers all in the same lb rating.
That's as far as I got in understanding what makes a paper more like "playing card" cardstock. Once I started trying digging deeper than that, the representatives at the paper store made some vague mentions about various terms like the "tooth" of the paper but couldn't really explain further how to find suitable cardstock for playing cards.
That's why I've fixated on the gsm rather than the lb rating of the paper. It's the closest approximation I've found for a rating that gets me closer to what good card makers use.
what is the equivalent gsm of the self adhesive sheets?
I'm not certain how to calculate that. This is the product details page from their website, perhaps that will help?
www.fellowes.com/us/en/products/product-details.aspx?prod=us-5221502
If you want to have great PnP cards, with much fewer work and much less plastic waste:
Just print out the cards on normal paper, cut them out, put them into a cardsleeve (not the transparent ones) together with an old mtg card or something similar for stabilization.
Maybe you ask now: How is this cheaper and causing less plastic waste? My answer: Lets be honest. You need a card game only as long as you are interessted in it. And as soon as this isnt the case any longer, just through away the paperprinting to reuse the sleeves as well as the stabilisation card again for the next pnp game. voila.
I totally agree. I like the method I show on this video for games I want to keep and play a long time.
I have a video that shows how to do what you describe in fact and its really nice and easy to try out games: th-cam.com/video/wOzwFYLE-rA/w-d-xo.html
Any reason not to go with a laminator over this method?
I found the heat laminator produced cards that didn't "feel" as good to me.
now that we have this out of the way, the next problem is how to draw awesome illustrations in my card game, is there a software i can use master?
Do you have access to Adobe Illustrator? I know that is a professional level tool that my designer friends use. Or perhaps if you have a tablet (iPad / Android / Surface) you could use the software on there to start?
@@boardgameprojects i have the adobe illustrator but only the trial version, i simply don't know how buying it works, especially when my country's currency is in Pesos i really don't get it. Right now i downloaded inkscape and autodesk sketchbook too, and see which one is better to use and closer to photoshop.
I use Gimp and it’s open source / free. Canva works great for simpler things too and it’s web based.
What websites can you recommend to search for free pnp games/files?
My favorite is PNP Arcade: www.pnparcade.com/
They have all the Button Shy games and other interesting options.
PNP Paradise is another option: www.pnpparadise.com/
Lastly, many Kickstarters have PNP options these days which I can back for a small amount and try the game out if it looks good!
Hi what printer do you use?
HP Envy 7645
Any suggestions for printers? I have a Brother laser now, but it's monochrome. There's an ink jet in my home by Canon, but sadly 65 lbs stock gets jammed so I can't use it.
I have an HP Envy 7640. It does print well on Card Stock so that's good. However, I think I'd look into one of those ink tank printers in the future to help save my wallet on the ink costs!
@@boardgameprojects Yes, ink is the killer isn't? Good suggestion(s) and many thanks for taking the time to reply. I'm going to do some research this weekend for sure.
How thick do the cold laminated cards end up being?
What are the cut edges like?
I don't have a good way to measure exactly unfortunately. I may be able to guesstimate on a ruler and get back to you. They feel good, but not really thick. Also, this laminate is more pliable so the can bend a little like real cards.
The cut edges are not sharp when put through the paper cutter I use.
Is this normal paper?
No, I use a heavier card stock:
Exact Index, 8.5" x 11", 110 lb / 199gsm, White Cardstock Paper: amzn.to/2L8ypOh
Springhill 8.5” x 11”, 110lb / 199gsm, Ivory Colored Cardstock Paper: amzn.to/3qvUCWS