Thanks for this video! I'm still new to hand planes and never understood adding a camber on irons other than those for quick removal (ie scrub planes). Now I just have to go and sharpen a bunch of irons!
Hi Luke. Good video for beginners. I'm an old hand and for years I used an old hollowed oil stone for rolling edges because it would damage good flat stones - it digs in. My advice to newcomers is to do the same; any old oil-stone will do to roll a corner, rather than ruin a good flat one. If you are using diamond plates, I don't think it matters. How much should you roll it? Until you take a fairly heavy shave and have no visible tracking.
Good tip using an old oil stone, i roll the corners for a fair heavy shaving as you say. It can be used for essentially the thickest shaving a smoother can achieve if you want, its a bit of a eyeball it and see, roll the corners try, see if you need to do more. Obviously this would become less after sharpening the blade a few times. As you could see the corners were rolled back about 1.5mm from the cutting edge once complete.
@@AussieWoodshed Watching this again and maybe another tip for people using water/oil stones or sandpaper to sharpen is to get a cheap diamond paddle to roll the corners only - that would work and probably take less than a minute to roll both corners, once established.
@@PeteLewisWoodwork Yes, i think your right that could work and would be a good budget option. Thanks for this tip. This got me thinking. Could maybe even use sand paper stuck to a scrap of wood as a makeshift paddle/file. If it rips it, can replace it and its only a small piece of sandpaper so it relatively inexpensive.
I use hand planes a lot, and this is an excellent representation of something that should be dead simple. I have almost all vintage (aka - old, used, and some pretty rough planes) that I’ve used with huge varying degrees of success. Sometimes awful ridges, sometimes no ridges. Now I have a better idea of the cause. Thank you - I’ll be changing some of my plane irons to rounded corners.
You can totally do this with sandpaper. I just did it today. You have to only press down on the backstroke. Might seem like it would take longer, but with sandpaper, you have as many grits as you want, so you can start with like 80 grit to form your curve quickly.
I have the same Veritas sharpener as you do and I have found that since I've been developing arthritis in my hands I have to use a tiny pair of pliers to make sure I get the knobs tight so it doesn't let the blade slip. I have also found when sharpening smaller blades I can put a heavy piece of double-sided tape on the blade where the jig clamps the blade. BigD in Texas
Yes, you do lose a bit. Pretty much you lose a bit less than you roll as the shaving gets feathered out on the edges. I usually roll no more than 5mm on each corner (not really any different to a camber, but i think with the straight blade between the rolled corners gives a slightly wider shaving) so in theory a standard #4 with a 50 mm blade could be reduced to a bit more than 40 mm. To be honest it's not something i have ever checked or worried about. But if it is an issue a #4 1/2 or #5 1/2 could counter this "loss" of blade width. The only downside is if weight is an issue those planes are heavier as they are wider. Hope this helps
I don't own any bevel up planes so i can't say for sure, but i don't see why it would be any different.Hopefully someone with a bevel up plane can chime in and let you know. Sorry i couldn't give you a definite answer, but i wanted the information to be correct.
You want a 90 degree sharp corner for planes that are supposed to leave a 90 sharp corner. So I wouldn’t do this for a rabbet plane or dado plane for example.
Yes i would. However i don't own any bevel up planes so i can't say for sure how well it will work on them, but it should work fine. Hopefully someone else will be able to answer in regards to bevel up planes.
You are still doing a camber - you have just moved your radius - instead of a small circle, (7"?), you use a very large circle, 22"?). Your system works well and has been used by generations. We just did not get hung up on naming what we did - we just did what those before us did. When you start naming - then tell it proper.
Yes, I create thorough videos to ensure everyone understands why i use this method and can reproduce this correctly with little issue or frustration. I don't create short form content missing all the important information.
Thanks for this video! I'm still new to hand planes and never understood adding a camber on irons other than those for quick removal (ie scrub planes). Now I just have to go and sharpen a bunch of irons!
I agree with you the cambers other than on rough removal planes is pointless. Hopefully rolling the corners will work well for you. Happy sharpening!
I'm from the old school as I have been using oil stones for the past 50 years. Your recommendation is the absolute best. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Excellent , thanks Luke!
@@paulleary1775 My pleasure!
Hi Luke. Good video for beginners. I'm an old hand and for years I used an old hollowed oil stone for rolling edges because it would damage good flat stones - it digs in. My advice to newcomers is to do the same; any old oil-stone will do to roll a corner, rather than ruin a good flat one. If you are using diamond plates, I don't think it matters. How much should you roll it? Until you take a fairly heavy shave and have no visible tracking.
Good tip using an old oil stone, i roll the corners for a fair heavy shaving as you say. It can be used for essentially the thickest shaving a smoother can achieve if you want, its a bit of a eyeball it and see, roll the corners try, see if you need to do more. Obviously this would become less after sharpening the blade a few times. As you could see the corners were rolled back about 1.5mm from the cutting edge once complete.
@@AussieWoodshed Watching this again and maybe another tip for people using water/oil stones or sandpaper to sharpen is to get a cheap diamond paddle to roll the corners only - that would work and probably take less than a minute to roll both corners, once established.
@@PeteLewisWoodwork Yes, i think your right that could work and would be a good budget option. Thanks for this tip.
This got me thinking. Could maybe even use sand paper stuck to a scrap of wood as a makeshift paddle/file. If it rips it, can replace it and its only a small piece of sandpaper so it relatively inexpensive.
I use hand planes a lot, and this is an excellent representation of something that should be dead simple. I have almost all vintage (aka - old, used, and some pretty rough planes) that I’ve used with huge varying degrees of success. Sometimes awful ridges, sometimes no ridges. Now I have a better idea of the cause. Thank you - I’ll be changing some of my plane irons to rounded corners.
Glad you liked the video and got some value out of it. Hopefully rolling the corners will solve some of your issues.
Oooo I haven't tried that with my Mk2. Will have to give it a go.
You just need to make sure you have the cambered wheel for the Mk2 for it to work, otherwise you can't tip it.
You can totally do this with sandpaper. I just did it today. You have to only press down on the backstroke. Might seem like it would take longer, but with sandpaper, you have as many grits as you want, so you can start with like 80 grit to form your curve quickly.
Glad to hear you were able to make it work with sandpaper. Thanks for sharing this.
Great video Luke . Keep up the great content mate cheers
Thankyou
Thank you - Really interesting.
My pleasure
I must try this. Thanks.
Glad you liked it
I have the same Veritas sharpener as you do and I have found that since I've been developing arthritis in my hands I have to use a tiny pair of pliers to make sure I get the knobs tight so it doesn't let the blade slip. I have also found when sharpening smaller blades I can put a heavy piece of double-sided tape on the blade where the jig clamps the blade. BigD in Texas
Thanks for the tips with the veritas jig
Really good tips , that will help for sure , thanks 😊.
This helped a lot. Thanks :)
Thanks for watching
That time I did woodworking with Snoop Dog, we rolled a few corners on our irons. We were so bent, there were no lines on our boards.
Haha
Do you lose any width of cut from rolling the edges? Would this be a good reason to get a 1/2 step plane?
Yes, you do lose a bit. Pretty much you lose a bit less than you roll as the shaving gets feathered out on the edges.
I usually roll no more than 5mm on each corner (not really any different to a camber, but i think with the straight blade between the rolled corners gives a slightly wider shaving) so in theory a standard #4 with a 50 mm blade could be reduced to a bit more than 40 mm.
To be honest it's not something i have ever checked or worried about. But if it is an issue a #4 1/2 or #5 1/2 could counter this "loss" of blade width. The only downside is if weight is an issue those planes are heavier as they are wider.
Hope this helps
Awesome. Thanks. I asked what this was on one of your previous videos.
Yes, i remember i was going to message you the link to this video, but no need now.
Is there a different process for bevel up cutters?
I don't own any bevel up planes so i can't say for sure, but i don't see why it would be any different.Hopefully someone with a bevel up plane can chime in and let you know.
Sorry i couldn't give you a definite answer, but i wanted the information to be correct.
Would you do this in a general sense for all irons, including, round or camber a low angle bench or block plane?
You want a 90 degree sharp corner for planes that are supposed to leave a 90 sharp corner. So I wouldn’t do this for a rabbet plane or dado plane for example.
Yes i would. However i don't own any bevel up planes so i can't say for sure how well it will work on them, but it should work fine. Hopefully someone else will be able to answer in regards to bevel up planes.
Yes 100%, this is just a general application for bench and block planes
Yep , i have to do that to my jounter plane n 7 😅 .
Once you get the hang of it, its a fairly quick process which is great
Thanks!
My pleasure
You are still doing a camber - you have just moved your radius - instead of a small circle, (7"?), you use a very large circle, 22"?). Your system works well and has been used by generations. We just did not get hung up on naming what we did - we just did what those before us did. When you start naming - then tell it proper.
No camber at all i rolled the corners of the blade, the rest of the blade is straight.
@@1pcfred there is no arc, the blade is straight between the corners, just the corners have been rolled.
You have spent 10 minutes to spell out “just round the corners”.
Yes, I create thorough videos to ensure everyone understands why i use this method and can reproduce this correctly with little issue or frustration. I don't create short form content missing all the important information.