Very useful video, I have just completed the upgrade. Your spoken English is better than many native speakers who are creating YT content. I had a fright caused by not plugging in the TFT connector correctly and the machine wouldn't even boot, but all was good after that. Now I just need to find a walkthough of all the new features and learn the menu structure 🙂
The new features are a pleasure. While printig start with the menue. Touch all the icons and see how to change speed, flow, baby steps change easier than ever before. While printing you can also go to printer, parameter and change linear advance there as needed
Had some issues getting it to see the printer, but finally figured it out. also a blank screen which may have been a connection issue... gonna try it now.
First of all, I follow this channel and the German channel. Thanks for the good information. Do you have a chance to share your cura profile with us? What is your print speed and linear advance value?
I have linear advance only on when printing mechanical parts with sharp corners. If LA used, than around k 0.13 You can spend houres to try to calibrate LA and you will find that it is diffrent for different filaments and speeds. I found the biggest effect is the have LA on or not at all. If turned on its minor important which k factor 0.10 to 0.18 you use. With the digant firmware upgrade for Artillery I can adjust that k factor while printing. So as always, I whatch the first couple of layers, tune in the best speed, tune in LA as well. Even with some experiences I am never totaly happy with my settings untill I see first few layers printing. Different geometries and part sizes require different speeds. Small parts are with short walls are much more sensitive and tend to shake the mechanics around. I gave up trying to get everything set perfect in the slicer when it comes to print speed, flow and linear advance. The real print shows the truth.
Good video thanks. My prints start 10mm abive bed after BLTouch has been set and bedlevel done. Must be something simply i'm missing. I still have G29 ABL in my start code but surely that's not it. Will be something simple
Thank you very much for the tutorial, very well explained. A question that has nothing to do with the topic. What option must be activated so that the gcode icon appears with the shape of the 3d piece? In your printer will appear one with the shape of a heart. Plus they don't show up as a list like I do.
for the previev you need to install a plugin in Cura an slice as bigtree3d format, in the printer deactivate list view within the preference settings. I will have a german video on this topic next week, there you will also find the downloadling and were to kopie the plugin folders manual to.
@@justprinted_3den988 Wow. A big thank you! The download is a little buggy if you choose download all, but worked OK by downloading individual items. Thanks again.
I couldn't get cura to flash firmware even though I have the ch3400 driver installed.. prusa reads it but fails....any way I can flash with out taking the base plate off the bottom?
It is a common problem. If you flash your x1 for the very first time, you have to open the bottom and disconnect the tft cable by hand. Than flash marlin and take care to reconnect at the correct position. The digital disconnect function in the new digant tft menue seems only to work when this not the first flash.
@@EggyAdventures23 me too before i have installed marlin 2.0.x but still i cant flash now with connected tft cable ...so you unplug again tft cable and then you was able to flash?
Primero agradecerte el esfuerzo que compartes con todos nosotros,gracias. Tengo un problema, he flasheado tal y como indicas en el video pero la impresión se para y no aparece ningún mensaje, que puede ocurrir?. Gracias
Hello great video.... i have an beginner question. After you probed the bed and save mesh to eprom, did you still need M420 (use auto-level data) command in start g code??? Thanks
The digant firmware abl marlin is setup to use abl always. So you wont need to tell the cura start code to use abl data. If you do, it should not hurt.
So I'm stuck. I have a swx2 and I'm trying to use your method. I get to the part in Cura to upload firmware. When it allows me to select a hex file I can't find any. Seems like a windows or cura issue. I was able to update the TFT, and my computer sees the printer... Any suggestions? Thanks for your videos
My video only works for x1 with 8bit board. The x2 uses a different board which is much more difficult to upgrade. Search on Thingiverse for x2 to find the suited firmware.
Hey mate what’s the max temp in the firmware? I’ve got the bimetal heatbreak just need to update the limit, figured might aswell follow your video if this firmware can get past 310 degrees.
@@justprinted_3den988 Honestly I m too lazy to open up the new printer and to carry it within USB range of my computer :) I have ordered a 3 Meter USB cable and then I will try it.
Is anyone experiencing probing issues before a print aswell? I just did the latest updates and now the printer wont probe before any print and just crash in to the bed.. It does work to ABL and all those things. Just not before a print so I cant print now... Any help is welcome.
Seems your touch sensor is not working. After self testing every time you power the printer on, the sensor should answer with a continuously red light. Cabling wrong, something disconnected, sometimes the flat cables cause disconnections, just use a spare sensor wiring direct to the mainboard to test.
I have installed this firmware but have a Hemera extruder. Therefore I need to make adjustments to my temp sensor and stepper motor current. Do you have the configuration files or is there a way to set these from the command line interface?
All right, after a few hours of trying different things (and trying not to brick my machine), I can't find any reason why my SWX1 cannot maintain a connection with my PC when trying to flash the firmware.hex -I have no way to determine if the 'Disconnect' feature in the new TFT firmware is actually disconnecting the serial between the TFT and the main board. The printer is 'almost usable' with just the new TFT firmware and the old firmware, but obviously this is not meant to operate like this and I see errors notifications pop up often. Anybody have any ideas on how I can establish a reliable usb/serial connection to flash this mainboard? Cura, and PrusaSlic3r all give me the 'flashing failed/ communication interrupted' error.
For flashing marlin the first time you have to open the printers bottom and pull the tft cable. This seams to be the only way to get the Digant marlin flashed. For further upgrades you can use the disconnect function at the display.
I need to reverse the direction of my extruder motor. Where can I find an the marlin configuration file to edit it, this file only includes the hex file.
im searching for a solution to a problem i been getting. In long prints M1 code appears. The print pauses, i have to click cintinue and the print continues. Sometimes dont appear nohing have to kill printer. Does anybody know this problem i changed USB stick
I did not discover such problem so far. The sidewinder with abl and Digant firmware prints houres in perfection. Dont know what the reason could cause your error message.
I have the same problem as you, with the genius pro, I updated the firmware of the printer and that of the tft. After that the error started to appear. Is it possible that the problem is in the firmware of the tft? Did you only update the tft screen?
Lots of users have already adjusted the fw to the genius. Check the channel Print Passion and watch his Genius fw Video. Ask him for the Genius fw. He is a better source. Good luck.
The hemera is just an other hotend, correct? So cabeling for stepper, thermistor, heat cartridge is needed just as it is original. What should be different for the hemera? Except the correct voltage and resistance of the heat cartridge and thermister would need to fit the marlin firmware to react correct. Therefore the marlin would need to be slightly adopted. I doubt you will find someone here to do this adopting job. How about just using the sidewinder original heat cartridge and thermistor fitting them into the hemera hardware? That way you can just plain use the ready made and available Digant version for ABL.
It is my automatic printer total shut off after the print is done, sheap and effective solution. It is a ready to buy plug with switch extension that shuts off by detecting low standby current. The trick is to add some gcode in the slicer endcode, so that we get a two minute delay in order to get the nozle cooled down before shutting off. So no filament heat creap occurs. I have a german video on my parallel channel about it where you can find details.
@@justprinted_3den988 ,i struggle with the warp bed.Do you recomend to update board firmware and a blt touch to my x1,or do you think i could solve It with a glass bed? I use pei sheet and aluminium bed.Thanks for reply.
@@pedrosanchezpena7 warping means not enough adhesion. PEI should work fine. Clean with ISo and check your layer hight. There are different PEI on the market, some very rough suface, some smoth, some mirror flat. The very rough I have but dont like it. Needs 200% Flow on first layer to get the filament pressed down in the grooves. I like the BuildTak or clones black little rough PEI most. Needs 100-105 flow in my case. The secret to adhesion is to get the first layer in full contact to the surface. This is only possible with a bit of pressure between nozzle and PEI. Pressure rises when printing at 0,1mm. At 0,2mm first layer the adhesion is lower. But important: With 0,1 to 0,15 first layer the flow is also essential. To much flow causes the filament to build up under the nozzle and sides. That again reduced solid adhesion. The flow is right when the first layer is smooth on surface, not to much material also not any filament missing. I observe my first layer while printing in about 20cm eye distance very careful and adjust the flow as needed.
I agree totally. My first layer is 0,12 at most. The rough PIE is useless, I agree, tested it and came to the same conclusion with 200% flow and more. The first layer flow buildup is essential to take care of. I redesigned my Sidewinder therefor, put the part cooling fan to the side to have free view to the nozzle. I print every part with at least skirt 6 lines, whatch the skirt closely, adjust if nessesary the flow, watch then the first layer fill closely, adjust the flow to a perfekt fill, no build ups, thogh enough ptessure to get the lines with no gaps at all on the printsurface. A short while ago I introduced a new discovered Polyester Steal print plate with great adheasion even when cold, so I print the first layer 70degree, establish the adhesion and than shut off the heated bed for the next houres. Works great, the german community helped testing it. Video is on my german channel Just Printed 3d. For PETG I prefer G10, GFK, FR4 all the same, sandpaper treated to get this tiny scratches. Now going with 0,12 first layer the Filament gets in the grooves and builds up great mechanical adhesion that also stays while shutting off the bed heating after the first layer. Last thing. Concern the line with. 0,4mm nozzle printing at 0,44 line with in the original Cura setup has a reason. Most folks print at 0,4 as the nozzle is, not being aware of the pressure topic between nozzle and bed at all. I enjoy to hear you having the same thoughts.
Yes, open the printers bottem and disconnect the tft cable from the board. Than flash marlin. This works perfect. Once you have for the first time a Digant Marlin installed, following flashing procedure works as shown without needing to open the printer. Why this is the case, bobody found out so far.
Could be a good video but that squelch is really annoying. Also you're recording video in English, but you switch FW language immediately to the German from the beginning of the video, which is in my opinion very confusing. You could do it later for yourself, but for the purpose of English video would be better to see menu in EN.
Hi Stan, my one year old channel grew to 4000 subs in german language. To keep it simple for now, I am just re recording some videos in english. What do you exactly mean by squelch? Is the voice volume changing or to loud? It is the first comment ever that dislikes the audio. So I am eager to know how you think it should be done better.
Very useful video, I have just completed the upgrade. Your spoken English is better than many native speakers who are creating YT content. I had a fright caused by not plugging in the TFT connector correctly and the machine wouldn't even boot, but all was good after that. Now I just need to find a walkthough of all the new features and learn the menu structure 🙂
The new features are a pleasure.
While printig start with the menue.
Touch all the icons and see how to change speed, flow, baby steps change easier than ever before.
While printing you can also go to
printer, parameter and change linear advance there as needed
hello, can you help me flash the printer, I can't understand a little with the codes?
Great video. Thanks for the effort with the English audio 👍
If the TFT FW Update doesn't work for you, try formatting your SD card as FAT, and not FAT32 or anything else. Worked for me.
the perfect video but I have a question, how do you make the stl that you are going to print on the screen visible?
Had some issues getting it to see the printer, but finally figured it out. also a blank screen which may have been a connection issue... gonna try it now.
Thanks so much man i have never donated to a creator before but definitely going to this time
First of all, I follow this channel and the German channel. Thanks for the good information. Do you have a chance to share your cura profile with us? What is your print speed and linear advance
value?
I have linear advance only on when printing mechanical parts with sharp corners.
If LA used, than around k 0.13
You can spend houres to try to calibrate LA and you will find that it is diffrent for different filaments and speeds.
I found the biggest effect is the have LA on or not at all.
If turned on its minor important which k factor 0.10 to 0.18 you use.
With the digant firmware upgrade for Artillery I can adjust that k factor while printing. So as always, I whatch the first couple of layers, tune in the best speed, tune in LA as well.
Even with some experiences I am never totaly happy with my settings untill I see first few layers printing.
Different geometries and part sizes require different speeds. Small parts are with short walls are much more sensitive and tend to shake the mechanics around.
I gave up trying to get everything set perfect in the slicer when it comes to print speed, flow and linear advance.
The real print shows the truth.
Good video thanks. My prints start 10mm abive bed after BLTouch has been set and bedlevel done. Must be something simply i'm missing. I still have G29 ABL in my start code but surely that's not it. Will be something simple
Installed and using, works great so far. Is there a written command tree, a guide of where to drill down to a certain function? Thanks
Not that I know of.
Thank you very much for the tutorial, very well explained.
A question that has nothing to do with the topic. What option must be activated so that the gcode icon appears with the shape of the 3d piece? In your printer will appear one with the shape of a heart. Plus they don't show up as a list like I do.
for the previev you need to install a plugin in Cura an slice as bigtree3d format, in the printer deactivate list view within the preference settings. I will have a german video on this topic next week, there you will also find the downloadling and were to kopie the plugin folders manual to.
can anyone supply me with the TFT and Marlin FW by Digant? Unluckely there ist no download on thingiverse. Has been deleted. Please help me. Txs
I updated the links and uploaded the digant fw on cults, since thingiverse deleted it several times.
Well done video. Thank you for that. Do you know why the Digant link is dead? Is there a way I can get the files you used to replicate what you did?
I guess Digant is only temporarely down.
I heard that he had also uploaded a new patch 7 for the tft.
+1, anyone has the zip file to share with us? i have a problem with my X1 and I need the latest Digant Firmware.
a mirror site is available, just see the video describtion.
@@justprinted_3den988 Wow. A big thank you! The download is a little buggy if you choose download all, but worked OK by downloading individual items. Thanks again.
Digant seems to be online again. Just search Thingiverse.
I couldn't get cura to flash firmware even though I have the ch3400 driver installed.. prusa reads it but fails....any way I can flash with out taking the base plate off the bottom?
It is a common problem.
If you flash your x1 for the very first time, you have to open the bottom and disconnect the tft cable by hand.
Than flash marlin and take care to reconnect at the correct position.
The digital disconnect function in the new digant tft menue seems only to work when this not the first flash.
@Just Printed_3D (EN) I have flashed it 2x already prior hence I'm wondering why I can't still lol 😆
@@EggyAdventures23 me too before i have installed marlin 2.0.x but still i cant flash now with connected tft cable ...so you unplug again tft cable and then you was able to flash?
Hi, do you know why the page of firmware is no longer on thingiverse?
I have on thingiverse online
Mirror digant sidewinder
If digant is offline, that look for the files here.
Primero agradecerte el esfuerzo que compartes con todos nosotros,gracias. Tengo un problema, he flasheado tal y como indicas en el video pero la impresión se para y no aparece ningún mensaje, que puede ocurrir?. Gracias
It could just be me but thing:5157805 seems to point to a 404 page. Has the page been removed?
Unfortunately, I also have the same problem. The link goes nowhere .Maybe someone can upload the firmeware again @JustPrinted_3D (EN)
I uploaded the digant firmware to the cults platform
Hello, has thingiverse deleted all firmware links?
Digant has often strange problems.
Get the files from my Thingiverse
Mirror Digant Firmware Sidewinder
Hi friend, this firmware is possible to use the M600 code to print color. Nice explanation tanks.
Hello great video.... i have an beginner question. After you probed the bed and save mesh to eprom, did you still need M420 (use auto-level data) command in start g code??? Thanks
The digant firmware abl marlin is setup to use abl always. So you wont need to tell the cura start code to use abl data. If you do, it should not hurt.
So I'm stuck. I have a swx2 and I'm trying to use your method. I get to the part in Cura to upload firmware. When it allows me to select a hex file I can't find any. Seems like a windows or cura issue. I was able to update the TFT, and my computer sees the printer... Any suggestions? Thanks for your videos
My video only works for x1 with 8bit board.
The x2 uses a different board which is much more difficult to upgrade.
Search on Thingiverse for x2 to find the suited firmware.
Hey mate what’s the max temp in the firmware? I’ve got the bimetal heatbreak just need to update the limit, figured might aswell follow your video if this firmware can get past 310 degrees.
Don't know the max temp. You have to try it.
I can´t understand why Digant still mentions the X2 in the title line although his firmware is not compatible to the X2.
His Marlin is not compatibel, his TFT FW should run on the X2.
I read about it as well in other groups.
Do you have an X2 to test it?
@@justprinted_3den988 Honestly I m too lazy to open up the new printer and to carry it within USB range of my computer :) I have ordered a 3 Meter USB cable and then I will try it.
@@justprinted_3den988 I have tested the new version in thingiverse for the x2, it functions but I have to test all functions.
Hello. I like very much your video but ¿where can i download the ch 341 driver for win 10...and how do i load it on the pc?
Thank you!
Just search online and find any 340/341 driver for w10.
They all work.
Is anyone experiencing probing issues before a print aswell? I just did the latest updates and now the printer wont probe before any print and just crash in to the bed.. It does work to ABL and all those things. Just not before a print so I cant print now... Any help is welcome.
Seems your touch sensor is not working.
After self testing every time you power the printer on, the sensor should answer with a continuously red light.
Cabling wrong, something disconnected, sometimes the flat cables cause disconnections, just use a spare sensor wiring direct to the mainboard to test.
I have installed this firmware but have a Hemera extruder. Therefore I need to make adjustments to my temp sensor and stepper motor current. Do you have the configuration files or is there a way to set these from the command line interface?
You need to compile your own Firmware with changes in Config and Adv.Config
Sorry no, I cant help.
All right, after a few hours of trying different things (and trying not to brick my machine), I can't find any reason why my SWX1 cannot maintain a connection with my PC when trying to flash the firmware.hex -I have no way to determine if the 'Disconnect' feature in the new TFT firmware is actually disconnecting the serial between the TFT and the main board. The printer is 'almost usable' with just the new TFT firmware and the old firmware, but obviously this is not meant to operate like this and I see errors notifications pop up often. Anybody have any ideas on how I can establish a reliable usb/serial connection to flash this mainboard? Cura, and PrusaSlic3r all give me the 'flashing failed/ communication interrupted' error.
For flashing marlin the first time you have to open the printers bottom and pull the tft cable.
This seams to be the only way to get the Digant marlin flashed. For further upgrades you can use the disconnect function at the display.
I need to reverse the direction of my extruder motor. Where can I find an the marlin configuration file to edit it, this file only includes the hex file.
Before changing Marlin, I suggest you simply exchange any two Motor connection pins in the socket. That will run the stepper in the other direction.
For some reason, when I download the files, there is no hex included. Any guidance?
There must be the hex. Try cults as an alternative download source. I have a mirror site there
im searching for a solution to a problem i been getting. In long prints M1 code appears. The print pauses, i have to click cintinue and the print continues. Sometimes dont appear nohing have to kill printer.
Does anybody know this problem i changed USB stick
I did not discover such problem so far.
The sidewinder with abl and Digant firmware prints houres in perfection.
Dont know what the reason could cause your error message.
I have the same problem as you, with the genius pro, I updated the firmware of the printer and that of the tft. After that the error started to appear. Is it possible that the problem is in the firmware of the tft? Did you only update the tft screen?
Are there any software bugs to consider before flashing?
I have not discovered any bugs so far.
Where can I get original files so that I can edit fro Genius? .hex is not enough
Lots of users have already adjusted the fw to the genius. Check the channel Print Passion and watch his Genius fw Video. Ask him for the Genius fw. He is a better source. Good luck.
can anyone supply me a firmware for sidewinder x1 with hemera and bl touch... tnx
The hemera is just an other hotend, correct? So cabeling for stepper, thermistor, heat cartridge is needed just as it is original.
What should be different for the hemera?
Except the correct voltage and resistance of the heat cartridge and thermister would need to fit the marlin firmware to react correct.
Therefore the marlin would need to be slightly adopted. I doubt you will find someone here to do this adopting job.
How about just using the sidewinder original heat cartridge and thermistor fitting them into the hemera hardware?
That way you can just plain use the ready made and available Digant version for ABL.
What is the big red button plz?
It is my automatic printer total shut off after the print is done, sheap and effective solution. It is a ready to buy plug with switch extension that shuts off by detecting low standby current. The trick is to add some gcode in the slicer endcode, so that we get a two minute delay in order to get the nozle cooled down before shutting off. So no filament heat creap occurs. I have a german video on my parallel channel about it where you can find details.
Is It necessary to update Marlin for the digiant TFT new features ?
Yes, the marlin upgrade is necessary.
@@justprinted_3den988 ,i struggle with the warp bed.Do you recomend to update board firmware and a blt touch to my x1,or do you think i could solve It with a glass bed? I use pei sheet and aluminium bed.Thanks for reply.
@@pedrosanchezpena7 warping means not enough adhesion.
PEI should work fine.
Clean with ISo and check your layer hight.
There are different PEI on the market, some very rough suface, some smoth, some mirror flat.
The very rough I have but dont like it.
Needs 200% Flow on first layer to get the filament pressed down in the grooves.
I like the BuildTak or clones black little rough PEI most.
Needs 100-105 flow in my case.
The secret to adhesion is to get the first layer in full contact to the surface.
This is only possible with a bit of pressure between nozzle and PEI.
Pressure rises when printing at 0,1mm.
At 0,2mm first layer the adhesion is lower.
But important:
With 0,1 to 0,15 first layer the flow is also essential. To much flow causes the filament to build up under the nozzle and sides. That again reduced solid adhesion.
The flow is right when the first layer is smooth on surface, not to much material also not any filament missing.
I observe my first layer while printing in about 20cm eye distance very careful and adjust the flow as needed.
Is this firmware available with mesh leveling?
I agree totally. My first layer is 0,12 at most. The rough PIE is useless, I agree, tested it and came to the same conclusion with 200% flow and more.
The first layer flow buildup is essential to take care of.
I redesigned my Sidewinder therefor, put the part cooling fan to the side to have free view to the nozzle.
I print every part with at least skirt 6 lines, whatch the skirt closely, adjust if nessesary the flow, watch then the first layer fill closely, adjust the flow to a perfekt fill, no build ups, thogh enough ptessure to get the lines with no gaps at all on the printsurface.
A short while ago I introduced a new discovered Polyester Steal print plate with great adheasion even when cold, so I print the first layer 70degree, establish the adhesion and than shut off the heated bed for the next houres.
Works great, the german community helped testing it. Video is on my german channel Just Printed 3d.
For PETG I prefer G10, GFK, FR4 all the same, sandpaper treated to get this tiny scratches. Now going with 0,12 first layer the Filament gets in the grooves and builds up great mechanical adhesion that also stays while shutting off the bed heating after the first layer.
Last thing.
Concern the line with.
0,4mm nozzle printing at 0,44 line with in the original Cura setup has a reason.
Most folks print at 0,4 as the nozzle is, not being aware of the pressure topic between nozzle and bed at all.
I enjoy to hear you having the same thoughts.
How can I download it? The files are down
I uploaded the digant firmware to the cults plattform. Link in the describtion.
how can activate the z sensor limit switch in the genius pro?
I dont understand what you are looking for.
@@justprinted_3den988 i have problem with bltouch
Does this work for a stock v4 swx1? Will M600 really work?
Yes, it will work.
i keep getting connection errors even after installing ch341 drivers
try physically disconnecting the screen for programming
Yes, open the printers bottem and disconnect the tft cable from the board.
Than flash marlin.
This works perfect.
Once you have for the first time a Digant Marlin installed, following flashing procedure works as shown without needing to open the printer.
Why this is the case, bobody found out so far.
It is available for stock printer?
Yes for Sidewinder X1.
For Genius needs a little adjustion.
Does not suit Sidewinder X2 and Genius Pro, for they use a different mainbord 32bit.
If you explain in English, why you still demonstrate the UI with German. It is really hard to understand from the screen when you operate
just as you explained it, thanks :-)
@@justprinted_3den988 Is there an english version?
@@markallen623 just follow the logo to make a setup , what am i done is like this..lol
Could be a good video but that squelch is really annoying. Also you're recording video in English, but you switch FW language immediately to the German from the beginning of the video, which is in my opinion very confusing. You could do it later for yourself, but for the purpose of English video would be better to see menu in EN.
Hi Stan,
my one year old channel grew to 4000 subs in german language.
To keep it simple for now, I am just re recording some videos in english.
What do you exactly mean by squelch?
Is the voice volume changing or to loud?
It is the first comment ever that dislikes the audio. So I am eager to know how you think it should be done better.
deutsch englisch Dialekt...
Tutorial in English. Switches onscreen language to Dutch.
Sehr lustig! hahaha...
German☝️ Not that this would invalidate your point.
But I thing its still possible to follow along.
@@mohe81 lol! I have no idea where I got Dutch from.