The top guide rail needs to be fitted before the pre-tension is set, and if you're looking through comments for torque the cams on N14 20nm + 180° for inlet 20nm + 90° exhaust 25nm chain guide bolts, Wouldn't use new ones i never have and I've done literally hundreds. Bit of silicone grease on the O-rings, Crank is 50nm + 180° Tensioner 65nm Make sure you fit the guide rail before you pre tension or tighten anything, it will be wrong if you fit it after timing is set.
What if the top guide rail fails as in my case with this one I've just bought (1.6 Prince engine in a 2008 Peugeot with 78k miles and a new chain at 39k according to the full service history) the top rail (T shape) is just, well, all missing after the curve! Just the Pedestal and 2 bolts remain with no sign of the plastic or the "T" Piece it sits on. Just jagged metal is left where the chain has been slapping against it. Wtf? Anyway, fault code says P11A8 "exhaust dephaser solenoid coherence fault" so I've replaced that, no change, rattle worse in fact. Then decided to look under cam cover at the top guide and it's half missing as said already. So anyway my question is, will reinstating a new top guide bring the timing back to how it was initially set, or is that too much to expect?! Any advice would be welcome. Thanks.
Question: Rather than use a breaker bar in conjunction with the special crank pulley holder tool, can I use my Millwaukee high torque impact wrench (2767) to remove the crank pulley bolt after locking the crankshaft and camshafts with the camshaft alignment timing tool?
What if I have the camshafts not aligned due to a vacuum pump failure, I have no compression on all cylinders. Everything else looks fine. Anyway I can solve that or that means I have bend valves?
Thanks for the video, I did notice though there was some sections missing, I have a Peugeot 308 which pretty much has this same engine in it, mine has the EP6, and I think I have the death rattle. At what point to you replace the torx bolts that hold the plastic guides in place ? Which point do you attach the top guide ? removal of these parts were in your video, but re-install wasnt.
Hi . Got a peugeot 207 1.4 benzine . Got a fault code p11a8 . Not sure if its just 1 of the regulator or the chain is stretched . The motor has no power at all after a couple kilometers . Cold motor its ok with enough power . Can some one give me advise about this problem pls !?
Do I need to get whole set (all parts) when changing timing chain? Or just specific parts like timing chain, guide rail, chain tensioner, sprocket and guide rail will do? Tq.
I have a mini 2011 with this engine whats the biggest mileage expected with original chain? Its got 110k miles on original one and i always just make sure the oil is on max level and s/s turned off, what could be expected thanks
Good Morning I really liked your video ... I have a mini cooper s r53 with burnt head joint .... I would like to acquire the tools present in this video and know the tightening torques. please have the sale of this material or have the electronic and physical indereco thank you for sending Preferably stores that can ship to mocambique ... south africa I am waiting urgently
R53 engine is a w11, different engine from the N14 engine. Only tool needed is cam lock tool go Baum tool search for minicooper w11 cam lock. Complete set will cost approximately under US$100.00, it has a single timing chain gear arrow will point at 12 o'clock when properly timed. With cam lock install. Head bolts 15mm head bolts 30Nm then 30Nm againg spiral pattern from center out. 13mm head bolts 20Nm. Then last step 90°angle torque in all 15mm head bolts. (Remember not to turn the engine once cam gear is removed so you don't loose crankshaft position. If you do front timing chain cover needs to come out and need to follow copper timing chain marks) so just be careful so you add extra work to your day. Good luck
All the timing chains I've ever done have had marks on them to correspond with marks on the sprockets, the N14 doesn't appear to have these. Are the sprocket's relationship with the cams and crank set purely by the clamping forces generated when torquing down their bolts while the timing is held in place with the tools in the assembly stage?
@@lyt_w8t Thanks yes makes sense no lining up marks/ sprokets etc like the older cars, lock cams and crank and tighten the gears were ever they are with the tensioner in, it looks complicated because it is so easy and time saving and more accurate
this was the question I needed answered too, where can I find the torch specs for the rest of the procedure ...It isn't worth doing if you don't do it right.
John Michael he isn't wrong however.. Thermostat Water pipe Valve cover Oil filter housing/cooler seals Transmission axle seals Transmission valve body Front seal Rear seal Friction wheel Vacuum pump Timing chain/guides Oil consumption I have not even addressed body/chassis gremlins like CAS modules, and instrument cluster. I'm not complaining however. MINI's pay the bills!
From a mechanical point of view, those of the MINi are very entertaining engines, because you are going to have to open them many times. From the user's point of view, what you are going to have to open many times is your wallet. They are shitty engines. The only thing they are worth is to melt them and remove an aluminum block to make soda cans.
The funny thing is, the BMW fans blame its unreliability on the fact it's a joint Peugeot design, but it's all the BMW bits that fail. The engine is based on a Peugeot bottom end that in turn is based on the old, bulletproof TU engine. The short engine gets shipped to BMW who fit it with their bits (top end, VANOS and timing gear). And it's all those bits that fail. BMW cannot engineer robust camshaft chain drives to save their lives.
by far the best tutorial to understand the process.. thank you.
Thanks, we appreciate the feedback!
@@AutologicTV Very clear, thank you. No music or clever comments, just clear step by step teaching. Very good.
The top guide rail needs to be fitted before the pre-tension is set, and if you're looking through comments for torque the cams on N14 20nm + 180° for inlet
20nm + 90° exhaust
25nm chain guide bolts, Wouldn't use new ones i never have and I've done literally hundreds. Bit of silicone grease on the O-rings,
Crank is 50nm + 180°
Tensioner 65nm
Make sure you fit the guide rail before you pre tension or tighten anything, it will be wrong if you fit it after timing is set.
What if the top guide rail fails as in my case with this one I've just bought (1.6 Prince engine in a 2008 Peugeot with 78k miles and a new chain at 39k according to the full service history) the top rail (T shape) is just, well, all missing after the curve! Just the Pedestal and 2 bolts remain with no sign of the plastic or the "T" Piece it sits on. Just jagged metal is left where the chain has been slapping against it. Wtf? Anyway, fault code says P11A8 "exhaust dephaser solenoid coherence fault" so I've replaced that, no change, rattle worse in fact. Then decided to look under cam cover at the top guide and it's half missing as said already. So anyway my question is, will reinstating a new top guide bring the timing back to how it was initially set, or is that too much to expect?! Any advice would be welcome. Thanks.
@@theresdave1363 you need to replace all of it. Pieces probably broke off.
Thankyou, I've bought a whole new chain kit, a Vanos pulley and N13/18 timing tool set, thanks for your helpful advice 👍
Didn't they change the tensioner spec to 85Nm?
@@theresdave1363 no I hate to say it but you need all new guides so might as well buy the whole kit and put a new chain on
Bedankt voor dit goede filmpje.
De functieomschrijving is heel duidelijk
Great video & Happy Holiday!!
Thanks now I can make a prudent decision how to tackle this in the future.
@ferkemall true! I buyed one for my Wife i never listened to her on car's but this one she said that is the one! F Mini, 💩💩💩
Spectacular video!
Thanks
Such a nice video respect
well done
Question: Rather than use a breaker bar in conjunction with the special crank pulley holder tool, can I use my Millwaukee high torque impact wrench (2767) to remove the crank pulley bolt after locking the crankshaft and camshafts with the camshaft alignment timing tool?
It is very easy when the engine is out.
Easy with the engine in also.
Can you do a video for the BMW Mini N47 Diesel Engine please?
When you are installing camshaft is 2nd cylinder on top position? If not please let me know where it should be.
am i able to use the time shaft tensioner and not the pre tension tool when tightening camshaft fashioners or that mess timing? hard to find tool
Amazing..thank you
What if I have the camshafts not aligned due to a vacuum pump failure, I have no compression on all cylinders. Everything else looks fine. Anyway I can solve that or that means I have bend valves?
Thanks for the video, I did notice though there was some sections missing, I have a Peugeot 308 which pretty much has this same engine in it, mine has the EP6, and I think I have the death rattle.
At what point to you replace the torx bolts that hold the plastic guides in place ?
Which point do you attach the top guide ?
removal of these parts were in your video, but re-install wasnt.
Sean Pereira should be obvious
Hi is the engine the same one fitted to the Citroen DS3 i have the 2013 1.6 thp ds3.
very good
Hi . Got a peugeot 207 1.4 benzine . Got a fault code p11a8 .
Not sure if its just 1 of the regulator or the chain is stretched .
The motor has no power at all after a couple kilometers .
Cold motor its ok with enough power .
Can some one give me advise about this problem pls !?
Hi the vanos actuator have a point does this point need timing ?
Do I need to get whole set (all parts) when changing timing chain? Or just specific parts like timing chain, guide rail, chain tensioner, sprocket and guide rail will do? Tq.
It will come as a set. Chain rails, etc.
I have a mini 2011 with this engine whats the biggest mileage expected with original chain? Its got 110k miles on original one and i always just make sure the oil is on max level and s/s turned off, what could be expected thanks
I am about to do this and also thought the top chain guide should be fitted before the crank and cam bolts are tightened.
That's certainly what a few other videos point out, and it is how it is stated in the Haynes Manual which I have. Top guide rail before tensioning.
* before torquing
This can apply to N12’s right?
Bom trabalho !
Can you help Timingbelt BMWx6 n63
thank you so much, perfect explanation . How many kilometers should we change?
@@TommyTheMooch thank you my friend 🙋♂️
Please. What is the problem can do the chain ?
plese and how can i know that the chain should be removed
Does it work with the n12 ?
Wouldn't you lock the cams befor taking the tensioner out
does the crank and cam bolt need replaced as well? they have torque to yield specifications?
Yes they do need replacing!
Good Morning
I really liked your video ...
I have a mini cooper s r53 with burnt head joint ....
I would like to acquire the tools present in this video and know the tightening torques.
please have the sale of this material or have the electronic and physical indereco thank you for sending
Preferably stores that can ship to mocambique ... south africa
I am waiting urgently
R53 engine is a w11, different engine from the N14 engine. Only tool needed is cam lock tool go Baum tool search for minicooper w11 cam lock. Complete set will cost approximately under US$100.00, it has a single timing chain gear arrow will point at 12 o'clock when properly timed. With cam lock install. Head bolts 15mm head bolts 30Nm then 30Nm againg spiral pattern from center out. 13mm head bolts 20Nm. Then last step 90°angle torque in all 15mm head bolts. (Remember not to turn the engine once cam gear is removed so you don't loose crankshaft position. If you do front timing chain cover needs to come out and need to follow copper timing chain marks) so just be careful so you add extra work to your day. Good luck
At 2:27 why is that tool needed? Isn't the crankshaft secured with the pin in the flywheel?
The pin is for timing only, it can support the force of loosening the crankshaft hub fastener.
Yea It can warp the end of the tool.
It has to go back in with ease
To verify timing
Good
bueno pues ahora a desarmar y esperar a que encienda...
All the timing chains I've ever done have had marks on them to correspond with marks on the sprockets, the N14 doesn't appear to have these. Are the sprocket's relationship with the cams and crank set purely by the clamping forces generated when torquing down their bolts while the timing is held in place with the tools in the assembly stage?
Switmyki
when do you put the new tensioner in ??? before or after you rotate the engine ??
Before you rotate it.
@@lyt_w8t Thanks yes makes sense no lining up marks/ sprokets etc like the older cars, lock cams and crank and tighten the gears were ever they are with the tensioner in, it looks complicated because it is so easy and time saving and more accurate
what oil
When do you install the top guide rail?
Seems to be easy ^^
Not at all
Not in the car it isn't
👍🎖🎖🎖🏆🏆🏆
I informed thats a bmw motor in the peugeot 207 s
1,4 pistin up or equal
Buenas tardes
can you do this without removing the engine from the Mini?
It would be tight!
As simple as an oil change.
What was the timing chain tensioner torque?
MINI states 65 Nm for the M22 x 1.5 tensioner.
this was the question I needed answered too, where can I find the torch specs for the rest of the procedure ...It isn't worth doing if you don't do it right.
2FT. two times f#cking tighter than when it left the factory.....
A lemon of an engine, if the chain is not gone the Inlet ports get clogged, one drama after another.
Only on the Turbo version of this engine, does the valves get carboned up, not this one.
John Michael he isn't wrong however..
Thermostat
Water pipe
Valve cover
Oil filter housing/cooler seals
Transmission axle seals
Transmission valve body
Front seal
Rear seal
Friction wheel
Vacuum pump
Timing chain/guides
Oil consumption
I have not even addressed body/chassis gremlins like CAS modules, and instrument cluster.
I'm not complaining however. MINI's pay the bills!
w
Does the vanos need learning
I think you just reset adaptions and do a drive cycle I'm not sure though hopefully someone else will answer
Are they worth a t-chain?
Why would the timing chain have to be replaced in the first place?
If there's nothing wrong with a timing chain then why replace it
Timing chain components wear, and when they do mechanical timing shifts causing fault codes. This is why the timing chain may have to be replaced.
Why does mini have to make it so difficult to replace chains or any car maker for that matter...
My countryman desil cost 1700 pound for this job
How the hell do you measure 5.3 INCH LBS! Thats so low?
Easy, 5.3 in/lbs = just nip it up a bit 😁
Did you ever find out to torque to 5.3 inch lbs ? I am unable to find a torque wrench which has that low of a setting.
@@TheScoutFamily I have a beam torque wrench that goes that low, little 1/4 drive thing
@@wayneclement7201 Thanks!
From a mechanical point of view, those of the MINi are very entertaining engines, because you are going to have to open them many times. From the user's point of view, what you are going to have to open many times is your wallet. They are shitty engines. The only thing they are worth is to melt them and remove an aluminum block to make soda cans.
The funny thing is, the BMW fans blame its unreliability on the fact it's a joint Peugeot design, but it's all the BMW bits that fail. The engine is based on a Peugeot bottom end that in turn is based on the old, bulletproof TU engine. The short engine gets shipped to BMW who fit it with their bits (top end, VANOS and timing gear). And it's all those bits that fail. BMW cannot engineer robust camshaft chain drives to save their lives.
P
Thanks