Blend door was "glued" to its seat on heater side. My solution worked elegantly well: drill a 3/8" hole through housing wall perpendicular to blend door (cylinder) axis, close to heater side seat, insert a flat head screw driver and gently punch....Et Voilà ! I just saved $1300. Spray Talc inside of windbox to prevent future "glueage". patch hole with duct tape.
Your solution sounds a lot more up my alley! Anything I should be aware of that I can't come back from if I screw up too bad on the "punching the hole" part?
I did not access the part. I guessed the location for drilling the hole after observing multiple views of the wind box on the web, and locating the heater core.
I vote you make a video to show where to drill! Perpendicular to the cylinder axis would be going in from either firewall side, ( not possible) or from the console/ dash side. Did you remove radio and so fourth to go in that way?
I had the same problem, except on the passenger side. I removed the floor air distribution door on the side, just above the drum, was able to fit my whole hand inside and press on the drum evenly and pop the seal past that lip and back into normal position. I was able to get to it by removing the glove box.... ...then I put on a new gear and actuator. It cost me $40.
Both side of mine have broken gears. I replaced the passenger side and upon trying it, it broke again. I cannot turn the blend door by hand. I'm guessing that is the issue. Once you popped the seal, could you turn it easily by hand from the outside?
@@davidknight3299 With the motor removed, yes the doors rotating very easily by hand. I was unable to rotate the door when the seal was over traveled and the seal stuck, I was using a screwdriver as a lever nearly to the point of breaking the shaft off the end of the door and could not rotate it. That was the key, removing the mode door for the floor vents, I was able to get my entire hand inside, and press evenly on the seal, at the seal and pop it free......
The same thing happened on my passenger side. Where is the “floor air distribution door”? Is that the long tube that goes down to the floor vent right below the glove box? If so, How does it come off? Are there screws or does it just pop off?
I had my blend door actuator only on the driver side replaced, no warm air from the driver dashboard vent. Canadian dealer charged $725... tech had some scapped hands due to a metal bar going across. Darn cheap parts but let me guess, all cars are made like that? I am thinking on not using Auto setting as much in the future, thinking manual air distribution adjustment might make the actuators move less??
1:08 There is still a gear on the shaft at end of the "drum." Pry that gear off, and I wonder if you can move the drum FORWARD 3/4 of a turn. You are trying to pull the drum backwards past the jammed seal, but I'm saying "keep it moving forward" until it comes on around to normal operating range.
That looks like one hell of a job to remove that entire assembly. I've replaced the gears, but that's easy in comparison. Was that $1300 parts AND labor?
Think he paid the dealer $1300. I've been watching lots of videos. FYI, watch videos for Dodge Durango and Charger. AC system and dash is nearly the same.
I have a 2011 grand Cherokee I’m not getting no AC at , I took it to Jeep they said it is the driver side actuator or door which is stuck , I’m tryna to figure out would 1 vent stop the whole car from receiving AC 🤔
Maybe, for this particular Jeep there are 4 actuators (motors that move the doors) one is recirculate/ventilate that opens/closes a door before the blower to either draw air from outside or draw air from inside the cabin. There are the air blend doors, one for each side, with their own actuator, that opens/closes doors (the drums in the video) that directs air through either the AC evaporator or the heater core, or a mix of air from both, to adjust the temperature. Then there is the mode door and actuator, that directs the flow of air to different vents, the defrost, panel, panel or mix of several..... So any of these doors, their gears or actuators malfunction, you can end up with them out of position, to include totally blocking any airflow at all.... ....you're AC system could be working just fine, but the air blend doors are broken and only directing airflow through the heater core and not into the AC evaporator to cool the air.... If they checked your AC system, which I be shocked if they didn't, and it checks out to be working normally, then they check the air distribution and probably found that despite the AC working fine, it doesn't matter if the air distribution system doesn't direct any air through the AC evaporator, so no cool air at all......
There is a "cabin air filter" behind the glove box. If it were severely clogged with dust, you might have reduced air flow. Does you Cherokee has separate temperature controls from driver and passenger? If dual control, then I don't see how a failure on driver's side could stop the passenger from getting cold air. My friends Cherokee is 2011 with 66K miles; cabin air filter is dirty, but not completely blocked. Air flow may be reduced, but surely not blocked. She drives only on normal city streets; no dirt or dusty roads.
Anyone has found any videos on how to replace this box? I have the same issue, my mechanic wants $1700. He said he will need to remove the whole dashboard in order to get to this box
I have the same problems and I will be trading in my jeep for a Ford. Never had problems with my Ford product and I drove it for 15 years. These newer cars are cheaply built plastic junk.
I like the running gear and powertrain on mine, but if it's plastic it's broken, and the electrics are so bad I have to keep checking it's not a British car.
![บุษบา - วงชานเมือง [LiveCoverVertion] Original : เมนทอล](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Dm81sKcd9rs/mqdefault.jpg)
![NONT TANONT - ดอกไม้ที่รอฝน (spring) - Reimagined [Live Session]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nY2PsFZFEOg/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for this. It's so helpful to see the whole unit outside the dash to understand how it works (or more correctly, doesn't).
Blend door was "glued" to its seat on heater side. My solution worked elegantly well: drill a 3/8" hole through housing wall perpendicular to blend door (cylinder) axis, close to heater side seat, insert a flat head screw driver and gently punch....Et Voilà ! I just saved $1300. Spray Talc inside of windbox to prevent future "glueage". patch hole with duct tape.
Your solution sounds a lot more up my alley! Anything I should be aware of that I can't come back from if I screw up too bad on the "punching the hole" part?
How did you access the part? Drivers side is doing the same as in the video.
I did not access the part. I guessed the location for drilling the hole after observing multiple views of the wind box on the web, and locating the heater core.
Removing the HVAC box was probably $1000 in labor. How did you get to it with a drill?
I vote you make a video to show where to drill! Perpendicular to the cylinder axis would be going in from either firewall side, ( not possible) or from the console/ dash side. Did you remove radio and so fourth to go in that way?
The heater core heat caused the seal to get stuck common problem with Durango s and grand Cherokee s affected
Anyone else miss the old cars with levers and cables? They were a pain in the ass, but not to this advanced level.
Nice walk through
Wow! I just fixed mine. What a PIA! 😤😡
I had the same problem, except on the passenger side. I removed the floor air distribution door on the side, just above the drum, was able to fit my whole hand inside and press on the drum evenly and pop the seal past that lip and back into normal position. I was able to get to it by removing the glove box.... ...then I put on a new gear and actuator. It cost me $40.
Both side of mine have broken gears. I replaced the passenger side and upon trying it, it broke again. I cannot turn the blend door by hand. I'm guessing that is the issue. Once you popped the seal, could you turn it easily by hand from the outside?
@@davidknight3299 With the motor removed, yes the doors rotating very easily by hand. I was unable to rotate the door when the seal was over traveled and the seal stuck, I was using a screwdriver as a lever nearly to the point of breaking the shaft off the end of the door and could not rotate it. That was the key, removing the mode door for the floor vents, I was able to get my entire hand inside, and press evenly on the seal, at the seal and pop it free......
@@rickanderson8088 Thanks for the reply! I'll give that a try and post back what I find. Thank you so much for your help.
The same thing happened on my passenger side. Where is the “floor air distribution door”? Is that the long tube that goes down to the floor vent right below the glove box? If so, How does it come off? Are there screws or does it just pop off?
Nevermind... I Just figured out how to get it off. Now hopefully I can figure out how to pop the seal.
Looks like the gasket melts and gets stuck. $325 for the HVAC box shipped. My 2011 is having the same problem. 😟
I had my blend door actuator only on the driver side replaced, no warm air from the driver dashboard vent. Canadian dealer charged $725... tech had some scapped hands due to a metal bar going across. Darn cheap parts but let me guess, all cars are made like that?
I am thinking on not using Auto setting as much in the future, thinking manual air distribution adjustment might make the actuators move less??
Do you have a video of taking it out
I feel your pain
Did you have to remove the whole dash to get this out.
Barrel shaped thing is for temperature control. Blending evaporator and heater core temperatures. Heater core is right below the barrel.
1:08 There is still a gear on the shaft at end of the "drum." Pry that gear off, and I wonder if you can move the drum FORWARD 3/4 of a turn. You are trying to pull the drum backwards past the jammed seal, but I'm saying "keep it moving forward" until it comes on around to normal operating range.
Do you know what that gear is called or have a part number? Mines missing lol. I have the other gear and actuator
@@mixedvids813Did you find this part? I need to replace that gear as well and can't seem to find it.
That looks like one hell of a job to remove that entire assembly. I've replaced the gears, but that's easy in comparison. Was that $1300 parts AND labor?
How did u get the unit out I hear it’s very difficult
Tough luck. I was able to push it free
Hey what is this parts name? Mine has the same issue
Where did you find the replacement part. i have a similar problem. How did you get the old unit out? Thanks.
Think he paid the dealer $1300. I've been watching lots of videos. FYI, watch videos for Dodge Durango and Charger. AC system and dash is nearly the same.
@@birdwing98 I have the same problem with my jeep and sure do not want to pay $1300. Can you share any video you have found?
I have a 2011 grand Cherokee I’m not getting no AC at , I took it to Jeep they said it is the driver side actuator or door which is stuck , I’m tryna to figure out would 1 vent stop the whole car from receiving AC 🤔
Maybe, for this particular Jeep there are 4 actuators (motors that move the doors) one is recirculate/ventilate that opens/closes a door before the blower to either draw air from outside or draw air from inside the cabin. There are the air blend doors, one for each side, with their own actuator, that opens/closes doors (the drums in the video) that directs air through either the AC evaporator or the heater core, or a mix of air from both, to adjust the temperature. Then there is the mode door and actuator, that directs the flow of air to different vents, the defrost, panel, panel or mix of several.....
So any of these doors, their gears or actuators malfunction, you can end up with them out of position, to include totally blocking any airflow at all.... ....you're AC system could be working just fine, but the air blend doors are broken and only directing airflow through the heater core and not into the AC evaporator to cool the air....
If they checked your AC system, which I be shocked if they didn't, and it checks out to be working normally, then they check the air distribution and probably found that despite the AC working fine, it doesn't matter if the air distribution system doesn't direct any air through the AC evaporator, so no cool air at all......
There is a "cabin air filter" behind the glove box. If it were severely clogged with dust, you might have reduced air flow. Does you Cherokee has separate temperature controls from driver and passenger? If dual control, then I don't see how a failure on driver's side could stop the passenger from getting cold air. My friends Cherokee is 2011 with 66K miles; cabin air filter is dirty, but not completely blocked. Air flow may be reduced, but surely not blocked. She drives only on normal city streets; no dirt or dusty roads.
birdwing98 yes it was dual control it’s ok I traded it in 😂
How many hours to get that off
Anyone has found any videos on how to replace this box? I have the same issue, my mechanic wants $1700. He said he will need to remove the whole dashboard in order to get to this box
JEEP. Just Empty Every Pocket
True.... 😢
Did it throw a low voltage code? B104e and B104d
I have this issue, as yet unrepaired, and it gives no error codes.
DId u fix the problem ?
I have the same problems and I will be trading in my jeep for a Ford. Never had problems with my Ford product and I drove it for 15 years. These newer cars are cheaply built plastic junk.
I like the running gear and powertrain on mine, but if it's plastic it's broken, and the electrics are so bad I have to keep checking it's not a British car.
Chrysler junk…🙄🤷♂️🤮