Bro I literally bought a brand new battery and it keeps dying on me when the bike is parked for a 2 weeks period, However nothing was left on thank you so much.
Benjamin "It's a fucking pain in the ass!" "My fucking piece of shit bike!" Both phrases I have said numerous times about my F2. By embarrassing me and stranding me too many fucking times. The damn charging and fuel/petcock valve bullshit taught me a lot about old bike ownership. How to become a fucking bike mechanic! I know and appreciate the reality of this video. Thanks for making and sharing the video. Even though it is an older video it still rings true today.
Had the exact same problem with my alternator in my 10year old CB400. I guess they just wear out over time. Useful video anyway and it is super annoying when your battery dies mid trip.
The stator wasn't fried. It was actually the wires in between the Stator and the Rectifier. It you watch the video carefully you can see the wire clip connecting the yellow wires was brown and burnt. that's where the short was. And also the stator can still be discolored and work perfectly fine. I was still learning in this video, and the rest of the information is correct. Have a nice day.
but I already fixed the problem it was the stator I knew that it was. cause I checked with a multi meter. the problem is figuring oh what caused it to fail anyways. if it was something I did or the part just failed over time
Benjamin and tried to place the startor of a cbr 600 f2 1993, but when mounting it on the motorcycle, the movable bolts that they have, offset the holes and do not match ,, as I refer to what I follow ,, thanks
There are way easier ways to check to see if your stator is bad, you can just take the connector off and check it for resistance across the pins on the connector I don't remember the exact range but it's not much if it's over 1 or 2 ohms is too much I think or somewhere close that'll tell you instead of just swapping parts trying to guess what the problem is
Please help! I don't understand last 30sec ...i have same problem, same bike, when I put new battery it last for two days. I checked voltage while bike was running and it gets higher for only 0.1 - 0.2 volts when I gave it full throttle
The charging system is easy if I'f you can understand this: The stator is just a magnet. When the engine is running that magnet produces electricity. That electricity has to get to the battery, that's it. It might not be the stator, the wires might be bad that come out of the stator. Check the entire wire (especially the clips) and make sure they are not burned
You can follow that wire and it will lead you right to the regulator. It's usually black and about the size of a wallet. Check and make sure nothing is burned around that area. If it is that usually means the regulator is bad. Next check the wires that are coming out of the regulator that go to the battery and make sure they aren burned either.
If your bike is dying it is going to be only one of four things: your stator, your regulator, your battery, or the wires that connect them all. A new stator is about $150, a new battery is about $100 a new regulator is about $60 and the wires are about $30. If you can't figure this out, just email me and I can walk you through it. This is easy dude. Benjamin.wearne@gmail.com
I heard that you can have a fried ecu Cdi and it can cause the battery to not charge correctly even if Stator or rectifier is good. have you heard about this as I'm trying to diagnose what's wrong with my charging unit I took out my Hids to be safe
+matt stacks idk how much you know about electricity, you might know way more than me. this is what i know: -electricity is like putting marbles in a long line (a circuit), if you push the first one, the last one moves (closed circuit) -if the battery is dying then marbles are leaving the battery to power the ignition, but theyre not being put back into the battery by the stator. so obviously it dies -If the line of marbles is broken from the stator to the battery (a short circuit), they wont reach their destination (the battery) -the stator is a magnet that spins when the engine is on (obviously, no insult here) and spinning magnets produce electricity -so this electricity has to make it from the stator to the battery (via CLOSED CIRCUIT) -the ecu is part of the CHARGING CIRCUIT and the IGNITION CIRCUIT (ya know? that spark that runs your bike.... ignition...) -A bike with a fried ecu will not only fail to charge the battery, (per short charging circuit) but it will also fail to keep the engine RUNNING at all (per short ignition circuit) -so if its RUNNING its not the ecu, the short in the CHARGING CIRCUIT has to be located OUTSIDE of the IGNITION CIRCUIT - so here's the charging circuit break down: ---- ALTERNATOR (stator) is connected to RECTIFIER (via the 3 yellow 12 gauge wires) ---- RECTIFIER is connected (via the green wire) to SIDE SWITCH STAND, TURN SIGNAL RELAY, THERMOSTAT SWITCH, GAUGES, HEADLIGHT RELAY, FUEL PUMP, HORN, AND ECU/ICM/CDI/whatever the fuck you what to call it ---- RECTIFIER is ALSO connected to MAIN FUSE via the RED WIRE ---- All of the items connected to the rectifier via the GREEN WIRE are on the IGNITION CIRCUIT (that's why all those things are ON when the bike is on, some of them even effect the ignition and DO NOT allow the bike's IGNITION to be on (like for instance: the SIDE STAND SWITCH) that's why if your side stand is down you cant start your bike, the side stand switch breaks the ignition circuit ----MAIN FUSE is connected to BATTERY (and ALL other circuits for that matter) SOOOOOO fuck!! with that all being saidddddd ----ALTERNATOR-----------------------to-----------------RECTIFIER----------to------------MAIN FUSE-----to-------BATTERY (3 yellow wires 1 connector) (one red wire) (one red wire) there's your charging circuit so ALL you have to check is: STATOR $140.00 12 gauge YELLOW WIRES $5.00 CONNECTOR FOR YELLOW WIRES $20 RECTIFIER $60.00 10 gauge RED WIRE FROM RECTIFIER TO MAIN FUSE $5.00 BATTERY $80 If you just suck at life and you really cant pinpoint the short circuit and LOVE the BIKE just spend the $310 and replace EVERYTHING and oh by the way... did i say its not the ecu? hope i answered your question buddy. Done.
I have the exact same bike . If my battery hooked up to charge it..bike runs fine. Soon as I take it off charger..the light flahes..the gauges flash..and if i rev it..it just goes pop pop pop..then almost dies. But has no throttle at all. But if on charger..lights,horn,revving everything works fine. Would this be the alternator or something like it? battery is only 1 year old.
Thanks for this video it definitely helped. I tested my stator this way and the volt meter read a max of 20V while revving and then went back to 0. im wondering if the meter has a max voltage reading or is my stator fried? Also I was thinking maybe it was the wire between the stator and the rectifier but mine doesn't looked burned.
Hy Benjamin, I saw a lot of videos and read some text material and they all ask to do the voltage test disconected from the R/R, I get the right numbers this way, about 75v on all wires combinations. HOWEVER if I do the test as you do, with the stator wires conected in the R/R I get the wrong numbers like yours, around 10v when it should be more then 50v. What you think about this? Why the discrepancy when conected and not conected? Thanks for any help.
Yes. Almost all vehicles including motorcycles can completely run off of the battery until it is completely drained. That includes starting, idling, and accelerating. Any accelerating vehicle will obviously use more current because at higher RPM's the spark plugs are firing at a much faster rate. So even if you are using your battery just to get your bike to the shop or back home because your alternator just died, its a really good idea to keep your RPM's very low to conserve electricity. You may even experience a major reduction of power in that instance, because of the lack of support from the alternator. I myself have been conditioned to check the charging system immediately on any motorcycle if I notice any reduction of power at higher RPM's.
Joe G well then you have something draining the battery, obviously, you're going to have to track down what is drawing current with the ignition off. You're going to have to get a multimeter each circuit to see which one one is pulling current when the bike is off, it's a little harder on a motorcycle then on a car then on the car because on a car you can just pull each fuse until you notice the current go away from the battery I'm not a motorcycle there's usually only a couple of fuses for everything so you have to test each circuit individually
Bro I literally bought a brand new battery and it keeps dying on me when the bike is parked for a 2 weeks period, However nothing was left on thank you so much.
Benjamin "It's a fucking pain in the ass!" "My fucking piece of shit bike!" Both phrases I have said numerous times about my F2. By embarrassing me and stranding me too many fucking times. The damn charging and fuel/petcock valve bullshit taught me a lot about old bike ownership. How to become a fucking bike mechanic! I know and appreciate the reality of this video. Thanks for making and sharing the video. Even though it is an older video it still rings true today.
Had the exact same problem with my alternator in my 10year old CB400. I guess they just wear out over time. Useful video anyway and it is super annoying when your battery dies mid trip.
The stator wasn't fried. It was actually the wires in between the Stator and the Rectifier. It you watch the video carefully you can see the wire clip connecting the yellow wires was brown and burnt. that's where the short was. And also the stator can still be discolored and work perfectly fine. I was still learning in this video, and the rest of the information is correct. Have a nice day.
but I already fixed the problem it was the stator I knew that it was. cause I checked with a multi meter. the problem is figuring oh what caused it to fail anyways. if it was something I did or the part just failed over time
Beauty school - deftones 😊
Thanks dude this helps a lot 🤝🏼
Awesome vid man, thanks for the help!
had same problem on a hornet 600 - new stator, problem fixed
Benjamin and tried to place the startor of a cbr 600 f2 1993, but when mounting it on the motorcycle, the movable bolts that they have, offset the holes and do not match ,, as I refer to what I follow ,, thanks
There are way easier ways to check to see if your stator is bad, you can just take the connector off and check it for resistance across the pins on the connector I don't remember the exact range but it's not much if it's over 1 or 2 ohms is too much I think or somewhere close that'll tell you instead of just swapping parts trying to guess what the problem is
Right on bro. It was fucking hella pouring rain, good time for fixing though. Thanks
I randomly decided to make a video. It randomly started to rain 2 mins before I hit record. i said fuck it im gonna do it anyway.
Please help! I don't understand last 30sec ...i have same problem, same bike, when I put new battery it last for two days. I checked voltage while bike was running and it gets higher for only 0.1 - 0.2 volts when I gave it full throttle
The charging system is easy if I'f you can understand this: The stator is just a magnet. When the engine is running that magnet produces electricity. That electricity has to get to the battery, that's it. It might not be the stator, the wires might be bad that come out of the stator. Check the entire wire (especially the clips) and make sure they are not burned
You can follow that wire and it will lead you right to the regulator. It's usually black and about the size of a wallet. Check and make sure nothing is burned around that area. If it is that usually means the regulator is bad. Next check the wires that are coming out of the regulator that go to the battery and make sure they aren burned either.
If your bike is dying it is going to be only one of four things: your stator, your regulator, your battery, or the wires that connect them all. A new stator is about $150, a new battery is about $100 a new regulator is about $60 and the wires are about $30. If you can't figure this out, just email me and I can walk you through it. This is easy dude. Benjamin.wearne@gmail.com
Yes, did solve it...thanks! It was regulator...now i have problems with valves
how do you know its the valves?
Try turning the phone to landscape to give the view that we see with our eyes. We don't have one on top of the other do we?
I heard that you can have a fried ecu Cdi and it can cause the battery to not charge correctly even if Stator or rectifier is good. have you heard about this as I'm trying to diagnose what's wrong with my charging unit I took out my Hids to be safe
+matt stacks
that's bullshit Matt
who ever told you that is not someone you should be listening to
+Benjamin fixed the problem anyways luckily my ecu wasn't messed up but wires were fried that run to it so I heat wrapped em
+matt stacks
idk how much you know about electricity, you might know way more than me.
this is what i know:
-electricity is like putting marbles in a long line (a circuit), if you push the first one, the last one moves (closed circuit)
-if the battery is dying then marbles are leaving the battery to power the ignition, but theyre not being put back into the battery by the stator. so obviously it dies
-If the line of marbles is broken from the stator to the battery (a short circuit), they wont reach their destination (the battery)
-the stator is a magnet that spins when the engine is on (obviously, no insult here) and spinning magnets produce electricity
-so this electricity has to make it from the stator to the battery (via CLOSED CIRCUIT)
-the ecu is part of the CHARGING CIRCUIT and the IGNITION CIRCUIT (ya know? that spark that runs your bike.... ignition...)
-A bike with a fried ecu will not only fail to charge the battery, (per short charging circuit) but it will also fail to keep the engine RUNNING at all (per short ignition circuit)
-so if its RUNNING its not the ecu, the short in the CHARGING CIRCUIT has to be located OUTSIDE of the IGNITION CIRCUIT
- so here's the charging circuit break down:
---- ALTERNATOR (stator) is connected to RECTIFIER (via the 3 yellow 12 gauge wires)
---- RECTIFIER is connected (via the green wire) to SIDE SWITCH STAND, TURN SIGNAL RELAY, THERMOSTAT SWITCH, GAUGES, HEADLIGHT RELAY, FUEL PUMP, HORN, AND ECU/ICM/CDI/whatever the fuck you what to call it
---- RECTIFIER is ALSO connected to MAIN FUSE via the RED WIRE
---- All of the items connected to the rectifier via the GREEN WIRE are on the IGNITION CIRCUIT (that's why all those things are ON when the bike is on, some of them even effect the ignition and DO NOT allow the bike's IGNITION to be on (like for instance: the SIDE STAND SWITCH) that's why if your side stand is down you cant start your bike, the side stand switch breaks the ignition circuit
----MAIN FUSE is connected to BATTERY (and ALL other circuits for that matter)
SOOOOOO fuck!! with that all being saidddddd
----ALTERNATOR-----------------------to-----------------RECTIFIER----------to------------MAIN FUSE-----to-------BATTERY
(3 yellow wires 1 connector) (one red wire) (one red wire)
there's your charging circuit
so ALL you have to check is:
STATOR $140.00
12 gauge YELLOW WIRES $5.00
CONNECTOR FOR YELLOW WIRES $20
RECTIFIER $60.00
10 gauge RED WIRE FROM RECTIFIER TO MAIN FUSE $5.00
BATTERY $80
If you just suck at life and you really cant pinpoint the short circuit and LOVE the BIKE just spend the $310 and replace EVERYTHING
and oh by the way... did i say its not the ecu? hope i answered your question buddy. Done.
+matt stacks
I just take 12 gallons of maple syrup and i pour it on everything
I have the exact same bike . If my battery hooked up to charge it..bike runs fine. Soon as I take it off charger..the light flahes..the gauges flash..and if i rev it..it just goes pop pop pop..then almost dies. But has no throttle at all. But if on charger..lights,horn,revving everything works fine. Would this be the alternator or something like it? battery is only 1 year old.
Thanks for this video it definitely helped. I tested my stator this way and the volt meter read a max of 20V while revving and then went back to 0. im wondering if the meter has a max voltage reading or is my stator fried? Also I was thinking maybe it was the wire between the stator and the rectifier but mine doesn't looked burned.
I just changed my stator today and I took it out on a cruise and it died on me again the rectifier was replaced right b4 I bought it.
+D Stanley
read the comment i left matt stacks
Hy Benjamin, I saw a lot of videos and read some text material and they all ask to do the voltage test disconected from the R/R, I get the right numbers this way, about 75v on all wires combinations.
HOWEVER if I do the test as you do, with the stator wires conected in the R/R I get the wrong numbers like yours, around 10v when it should be more then 50v.
What you think about this? Why the discrepancy when conected and not conected?
Thanks for any help.
If stator is shot will bike fire or not fire inconsistently?
Yes. Almost all vehicles including motorcycles can completely run off of the battery until it is completely drained. That includes starting, idling, and accelerating. Any accelerating vehicle will obviously use more current because at higher RPM's the spark plugs are firing at a much faster rate. So even if you are using your battery just to get your bike to the shop or back home because your alternator just died, its a really good idea to keep your RPM's very low to conserve electricity. You may even experience a major reduction of power in that instance, because of the lack of support from the alternator. I myself have been conditioned to check the charging system immediately on any motorcycle if I notice any reduction of power at higher RPM's.
I have a 2002 yamaha r1, ive changed the stator, and rectifier, and my battery is still not charging, please help, im frustrated.
had you checked the fuse ?
mine dont die when im driving it diesover night
Joe G well then you have something draining the battery, obviously, you're going to have to track down what is drawing current with the ignition off. You're going to have to get a multimeter each circuit to see which one one is pulling current when the bike is off, it's a little harder on a motorcycle then on a car then on the car because on a car you can just pull each fuse until you notice the current go away from the battery I'm not a motorcycle there's usually only a couple of fuses for everything so you have to test each circuit individually
Mine too... I dont have a volt meter but i have 100 euros to spend... I gues my mechanic will recieve a call from me 🤣🤣
that's the exact thing wrong with my bike. I have a 1998 cbr 600 f3
need to unplug stator to check... has to be unloaded.... false reading
Deftones
picr quality is not good
I used an iphone 4
I phone 4