Olympus EM1MKII Setup Tutorial (Edited version with no music)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 มิ.ย. 2018
- This video is my 10 ten customizations I've made to my EM1 MKII cameras for shooting events, weddings and portraits. (This is the same content from a previous video but without background music)
1. Back button focus : Custom Functions (CF/gear icon) Menu - A1 - AEL/AFL - Set S-AF to mode 3 - Set C-AF to mode 4
2. ISO/White Balance mapped to front button: CF Menu (gear icon) - B - Button Function - function button - Set to ISO/WB
3. CAF mapped to Lever: CF Menu (gear icon) - Tab B - FN Lever Settings - Set to mode 2
(AF settings are now sticky to the physical lever positions on the back of the camera and will remain where you leave them. In position 1 I leave S-AF set and in position 2 I leave C-AF)
4. Flash mode viewing S-OVF mapped to FN2: CF Menu (gear icon) - B - Button Function - FN2 and set to S-OVF
5. Card Slots Set to Dual independent (arrow down) with card 1 set to RAW and card 2 set to JPG: Camera Menu 1 - Camera Icon with Shaded Diamond - 1 Set to Raw - 2 Set to LN
6. Image Review Off - Wrench Menu - Rec View -Off
7. MF Clutch Off: CF Menu (gear icon) - A3 - Inoperative
8. Picture Mode Set to set to Muted and -1 Contrast -1 Saturation: Camera 1 Menu - Picture Mode - Muted - Info and then set contrast and saturation
9. Flicker Reduction Off: CF Menu (gear icon) - D2 - Flicker Reduction -Off
10. Auto ISO Warmth set to off: CF Menu (gear icon) - G - Auto ISO Warmth - Off
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Thanks for the new "quiet" version, much appreciated. I often watch these videos time after time, always learn something new.
Regards from Wales
Thanks for a timely and helpful response. Keep up the good work you are doing for all us Olympus users!
LOVE these tips - have been shooting back button focus forever, but as I do a fair amount of event photography I really appreciate these recommendations! Good stuff indeed!!
I just upgraded to an E-M1.2, and your setup gives me a good base to start from. I used this video to help configure my Mark I, too. Thanks!
Superb I love your clear slow-paced tutorials...I can follow and change settings as you speak...Many thanks
thanks a lot, many useful tips to set it up properly and have a faster workflow. Especially the front button for WB and ISO is absolutely precious (at least for me). Thanks again!
Just got my first mark ii today - I have been shooting with a G9 for quite some time now. I really like your video and enthusiasm.
Great advice thanks 🙏
Wow. What a great informative video. Thank you for creating 🙏
I have only just ordered one of these to see how it compares to my Fuji. Thanks for this excellent tutorial
Thank For this and even writing it out. I've just upgraded to the Mark II from the Mark I. I know I'm a little behind the times. But, what an upgrade.
Thank you Joseph for the great tutorial!
Brilliant Version - nice presentation - Thanks very much
Fantastic tutorial. Thank you!
Yay! Just found this 'updated' no background muzak version. Far better with background music removed. :)
God! I hate your loud intro music, yet I enjoy your tutorials.
Thanks man!
I have the older M1.1. When I shoot sports I shoot JPG because I need more buffer because at some point in a race it is continuous people. I also use the muted picture profile and also drop the saturation and contrast -1. And carefully expose to the right. I really like the M1.2's autofocus, larger buffer, and two card slots.
thanks for this tutorial.Personally, I configured the back button also for the C-AF: a single support or pumping for an S-AF and if continuous support I have a C-AF
I think I have not explained myself well on my settings:
autofocus ALWAYS in C-AF
AEL / AFL C-AF mode 3
If I want to be in S-AF, all I have to do is press once on the back button focus and then release and i can recompose before shooting
If I want to be in C-AF, I continuously press the back button focus before shooting
@@nicogavrais3340 I have set the S AF to mode 1 and Continuous AF to mode 2 and they switch fine but on the super control panel the icon next to the image stablisation which goes through Single Autofocus - continuous etc does not change.
Excellent video -- thanks so much for sharing! Can your Button Layout be saved to one of the Custom Mode buttons (C1, C2, C3)?
Great Video..........Thank you
I've got a cool feature for you that you may like
Did you know that you can "Hold Down" the Fn2 button and while you're holding down the button
Roll the front "Wheel" to re-assign what that button does.
It's way simpler than having to go into the menu to re-assign "Fn2"button function
Please keep these videos coming
Regards, Rick
Nice setup. What's your workflow when it comes to Exposure Compensation and FEC (with flash)? How do you change that in Manual Mode quickly?
I notice you didn't mention the Gradation setting. I've been playing around with it and surprisingly found it actually affects the raw file! How do you set up yours?
2:48, setting up the front button to toggle two modes. My identical camera seems to only manage one setting for one button (WB /OR/ ISO). What am I missing to set up the front/top button to manage both?
I have a question you may be able to help me with Joseph. Maybe you've run across this problem but maybe I'm doing something wrong. I have my EM1ii set up with magnify viewfinder assigned to function 1. I have aperture control set to the rear dial and exposure comp set to the front dial. Here's my problem. When I'm in manual focus, and turn on magnification, I lose control of aperture and compensation. The rear dial and the front dial switch to zoom control, and the 4 -way pad on the back just moves the zoom area around. This is a problem because I like to gradually stop down and observe the depth of focus effects at various apertures, and I can't do it with my em1. I don't understand why magnify would turn off all my exposure controls? Have you run across this problem?
Hi , how do I reset the arrowpad so I can move a shot up and down left and right please?
Great video - thanks! Question: Do you use electronic or mechanical shutter (or EFC) and why? Thanks for any feedback.
I use regular mechanical shutter about 90% of the time because it works with and without flash (at all sync speeds) and doesn't suffer from banding problems in artificial light. That being said I love using the e-shutter for prayers or other quiet moments when sound is disruptive so I test a lot of rooms I go into just to see what is possible.
hold the OK button for a few seconds and it will reset the focus point to the middle...and rotate the front dial to change the size of the focus to a smaller one.
Hi Joseph, I can’t find this answer anywhere. Do you know how to remove the eyecup on the em1 mark ii? Thank you so much for all your knowledge.
Hi Bryan, good question. There isn't any procedure I've been ever seen or heard about that allows it to slide up easily. I have removed them before a handful of times with some careful force to the bottom corners but it always feels incorrect.
Joseph Ellis , thank you sir.
Are the low res OVF, the LCD, the refresh rate of the OVF, and the magnification of the OVF, dealbreakers for purchasing the E-M1 III?
I am considering a buy and selling my Nikon equipment.
Thanks.
I would say no for 99.9% of photographers but it might depend on the work you make and of course on your personal preference. I would strongly recommend you give it a test drive so you’ll know for sure. For me, the 1.3 is perfectly useable in those respects for all my work.
is there a way to see your Histogram in your EVF when you are shooting? there seems like it should be an option but i can’t figure it out. Love the tutorial. Thanks
Sure, Gear Menu - I - Info Settings - Custom 1 or 2 - check histogram . Then you can cycle through the three screens available with the info button or if you prefer you can turn off ‘basic’ or custom 1 or 2 if you prefer not to have them.
thanks so much!
I have watched many of your videos and you have taught me many things about my camera. I have a question regarding a remote control,
Not the cable release, not the one used by using your cell phone, not the built in timer etc. I am talking about the hand held remote.
Is there an Olympus hand held remote.
I purchased an 'Olympus Remote Control RM-2' but I am unable to figure out how it works with the M 1 Mark II camera.
I went through the camera options and found "Shooting Menu 2 - RC Mode". But this seem to be for controlling flash.
Did I buy the wrong remote or can you assist me getting the correct Remote Control.
I like the idea of not touching the camera when shooting HDR or close up's.
I appreciate your help.
Thank you and I look forward to watching more of your videos.
James.
I believe the RM-2 was a remote for much older point and shoot cameras so I don't think it will work with your EM1.2. This one should work and give you the functionality you want - www.amazon.com/dp/B01CJ5TYFA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_6T7CCQX64GYBN6AE3EQ6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hi! What strap are you using on your camera? Looks more comfy than the strap that came with my EM1 MKII.
The straps I love are from www.thinktankphoto.com I love them because they've got grip on both sides to keep them on my shoulder but not too much that they slow me down.
@@JosephEllisPhotographer Thanks!
With the current price drop, which camera is a better buy E-M1 Mark II or E-M5 Mark III?
For my money, the EM1.2, better build, dual card slots, much better battery, optional vertical grip are my main pros over the 5.3 (which is also a fantastic camera).
Beginner question: does everyone limit the auto ISO range or just turn it off completely?
If you use Auto ISO I would set limits, you really don't want it jumping past 6400 without your knowledge. For what it's worth, I don't use Auto ISO,, during a 10 hour wedding day I'll only change ISO about 3-4 times and I like to know where I'm at all the time so I don't make any mistakes. It's a kick in the pants when you finish a shoot you think is going to be perfect only to find out your fighting unnecessary noise in the images that you could have mitigated another way.
@@JosephEllisPhotographer that's basically what I ran into. I love going out hiking and I found this beautiful overlook and noticed it was picking higher than I would like. I think this tips video help cause I never thought about remapping ISO/wb
Why not always in continuous mode if you use backbutton autofocus?
Well three reasons... 1. If the subject is not moving the AF can get jumpy trying to predict movement depending on how long you push the button you might catch it at the wrong moment and miss critical focus if you're working with shallow DOF 2. When in C-AF the image on the viewfinder isn't as sharp as it is in S-AF. I think this is because it's constantly making micro adjustments and never settles completely. You can trust the green AF confirmation dot that tells you the camera has got a lock but I still get a little nervous when that's not necessary. 3. If you're working at f1.2 and you want absolute accuracy on an eye or other small feature of your subject S-AF does a better job. Just as a personal rule I don't use the smallest AF targets in C-AF because it makes the camera work too hard and I believe it's unnecessary with a moving target. For example I'm happy tracking a face of a person walking and not their iris. In S-AF the smallest target is what I use about 90% of the time. I hope that helps.
Great video. I don't like this thinking that one should back button focus for everything. When I shoot action, I front button focus and shutter. When I shoot people and things I back button focus and front button shutter. My Olympus cameras are all set for S-AF to be mode 3, which is back button focus. And for C-AF to be mode 1, which is front button focus and shutter. I also have the d pad set for autofocus target point or group movement, and one programmable button set to center the focus point or group.
It's interesting to hear how everyone chooses their settings. Funny enough it was some guys from Sports Illustrated who first introduced me to back button focus and taught me (college student at the time) that it was the only way to go for action. Of course that was way before we had the sophisticated AF systems of today.
If I am doing a scene, I like back button focus because I can bump the focus on some object in the scene that I believe to be my hyperfocal distance. If I am shooting a person I can back button focus on someones face. But if a line of runners are coming by I am in continuous autofocus with front button focus and shutter so I pick a subject and press the one front button to focus on and shoot that subject, then let up and pick the next subject and press the front button to focus on and shoot that subject. My little M1.1 original chugs along and gets me a few keepers but the hit rate is pretty low. Thus I am shooting jpg to extend the buffer. I admit I am dragging my feet on if my next camera will be the M1.2 or D500 or 7D Mark III. I have experience with a 7D Mark II. I really need to rent a M1.2.
sorry for my english : i think that the right translation is not continuous support but continuous push
You said AEL was under A1, but you went to A2. Did you mean it's 'Underneath' A1? That's not the normal way of expressing it.
hopeless, too quick for beginners.