It gets ugly sometimes....
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- After receiving 4 days of rain, most of the orchids loved it! But, even though I applied both a spray and granular fungicide, I show some orchids that got ugly (black rot) and may or may not survive after removing the all of the infected leaves and pseudobulbs. I also show 2 orchids that seem to be recovering after a similar bout of dealing with black rot 6-9 months ago.
Not far away, in St Petersburg, I keep newly mounted plants and newly cut/repotted plants in my screen porch for several months or until I see them growing new roots. Squirrels are the big problem this solves, but control over rain, and stricter light control are also effective. The damned squirrels probe everything new outside.
I have heard about squirrel issues but the mocking birds are aggressive here and keep the squirrels running! I do love it with the bare root plants and cuttings start forming roots. The large plants that I transferred had new pseudobulbs and roots forming - I thought that they were ready for the real world and looked good for a few months before the black rot got them. They may have just been super susceptible.
@@plantpropagator i need to get a mockingbird!
Thank you for the honest and educational video. Some of my online Etsy purchases came with rot like that and couple of them I saved actually by attaching to board. Not everyone is showing their failures, so I appreciate how you teach different possibilities of what may happen even if you try very very hard of doing everything you can. Thank you!
Thanks for your comment - yeah, it was not a great day and you can learn a lot from failure - that is why I have learned so much!
It's funny - some TH-camrs include failures like using the wrong potting medium or knocking over and breaking a pot - my failures are much more colossal.
Sad video, but I appreciate the transparency! Hopefully you can save many! I was just telling someone orchids are fun, but there’s always something to keep you on your toes! I am now dealing with orchids burning from the mid day sun. Even a Renanthera… though that was my fault for poor acclimation.
I have always said that if something were not as challenging, the successes would not be as rewarding. I used to love to be challenged by my students - now the orchids are filling in!
@@plantpropagator great perspective!!!
Oh, man! It hurts just to watch! I've been there a few times... Lost a few irreplaceable plants! But saved a few others too, without a drop of fungicide! Things got a lot better when I moved from bark to crushed granite. I prefer the extra watering work in the dry season but better moisture control in the rainy season. But your substrate is well drained too, so I guess I have yet another untested theory to ask you about. Just like you have mentioned, I hear people say that they like to divide their plants as soon as it is feasible, so if you get one contaminated pot, you will have spare plants. I disagree. I prefer growing them as a single large bunch of pseudobulbs, instead. I have very frequently seen things go the way you had it there! Many if not all cuts can go bad at the same time. So here's what I think: small recent cuts are more sensitive and less sturdy against infections. If the original plant had a hidden pathogen that it was able to keep at bay as a large plant, they are more prone to succumb when they are small cuts and have to go through bad weather conditions. Do you think there can be anything to it? How much of an "immune system", or ability to fight off disease do plants have? The other reason is that if your large plant gets infected, then you can cut off and save a healthy portion of it, as far from the contaminated area as possible...
Well - maybe?? I think that my large plant was starting to show signs of rot, which happens when a big plant is in a small pot and you get a root mass that does not dry out. I did have new pseudobulbs that were emerging and thought that this was the best time to cut my plant up. I believe that I just did not cut off enough of the root system and was not brave enough. The divisions that I made were not as small as the plants that I showed. I was removing infected parts over time and the plants were way smaller than original. The rain just hastened what was already happening. As I think that you know, plants do have a defense response mechanism - kind of like an immune response but not quite. I think that the trick in plant division is to make more plants a little earlier than I did. I do have other plants that I also divided that are doing great. This is an old hybrid that just may have been more susceptible to black rot. I may be able to get a plant back from this - but, it does not look very good.
I did not try a mycorrhizal inoculant when I divided - will do this next time - maybe to only some of the divisions....
@@plantpropagator Great Idea! The good fungi could occupy and protect the plants, you have mentioned before! I love this approach. Thank you for replying!
@@plantpropagator Good morning, Doc! I hope you don't mind me calling you this way... I mean it in a most respectful way. I sometimes feel like Marty McFly talking to Emmet Brown... lol... Even though we don't have their age gap! But I digress...This conversation above got me curious, as it most often happens, and so I jumped right on line and read a few papers on plant immunity. What a complex molecular ballet we have there, don't we?? Maybe as complex as, or even more than our own mammalian Immune Systems! I read a paper by Jonathan D. G. Jones and Jeffery L. Dangl! MAMPs, PAMPs, PTIs and ETIs... To name but a few! What a confusing bunch of acronyms and molecular signaling! I don't have the background to understand everything they talk about, but I can get the "spirit" behind the paper. Thank you for so often triggering my curiosity!
The ugly and sad reality of Florida outdoor growing. I am treating at least 5 now after last week's downpours.
If treating means cutting off the leaves and spraying, there is a chance. Most people do not want to bother with removal of the infected tissue - those are harder to recover.... Thanks for your comment.
@plantpropagator Yesss... I don't know if I would treat seedlings but some are worth the work
@@mariapina1755 Good luck with your plants and let me know if you have any secrets that I did not mention!!
i have seen a lot of posts the past week on facebook orchid groups regarding the persistent rain over there and a lot of them have the same problem as you.
I have heard the same thing - I think that I planned and was a little lucky too. I heard yesterday from two people; one lost about 100 plants and the other lost 10 specimen sized plants in their collection. And, they may not be done yet with their losses. It is really said and discouraging, when this happens at this level.
I’m so happy to see this video today… being a newbie to orchids I just got a few babies and this is exactly what is happening. Please guide me on the cure/ care to try and save them 😢. I thought I was doing something wrong 😮.
I am sorry but this is not an easy fix. IF this is black rot (there are a lot of different fungi that are pathogenic on orchids), the best first step is to take a clean instrument and cut off the black leaves and pseudobulbs. If the pathogen has gotten to the rhizome, this is a much more difficult fix. You can also spray but the fungicide that you use will have to control black rot and those are expensive. I use Aliette which is expensive. And, if the pathogen has advanced too far, you may not be able to control it. Depending on the plant, you can also remove all of the roots and black infected tissue and just put that in an open pot so that it will dry our and form a new pseudobulb (like I show in my video). I am sorry but this is not an easy fix - a lot is dependent on the age of the plant and level of infection - there is no easy simple cure - please let me know if you still have questions...
@@plantpropagator ok thank you 🙏 🥲🥲🥲
I have also experienced simillar fungal infections especially during rainy season ( March-December in Bangalore) when humidity is high and when i keep the misters on for two min every two h from 10 am to 4 pm. These days i am experimenting on a few hormonal combinations to boost the growth,/ induce flowering in orchids which requires cold induction. In a few Paphs Dens and Cats i could get new growth by applying Keiki paste application to the apex( Paphs) and to the base ( Cats and Dens). This has worked for me propbably due to activation of latent buds by cytokinin present in Keiki paste( i prepare my own keiki paste).
I remember that you commented previously on the use of plant growth regulators on your plants. I am sorry but I have not done that and am not very interested in that approach. I am cautious with use of growth regulators outside of tissue culture work.
I could rescue a few Phals which had lost all its leaves by applying keiki paste to the apex I could induce new growth. Pl share your email id i will share a few pics of my results. Having used plant growth regulators in agriculture/ horticulture crops i am not averse to using PGRs at very very low concentrations. I did end up in a few problems when I used Tdz instead of BA. So far I have only used either BA or GA in my experiments.
I experienced this black rot/ fungus/ bacteria whatever it nmay be problem about 2 years ago, we had an especially wet rainy season that year ,I live in the caribbean it was devastating to my Cattleyas ,lost plants that were growing in the same spot for years ,. I have my plants growing in clay pots with gravel only as the medium, it did not help . I think if finances,space and the desire exist , the best solution is to grow susceptible plants under protection like greenhouse plastic or polycarbonate panels.
Some plants are just really susceptible - I do my best and try to get to know which plants may have issues. To be honest, I just do not know how to solve this 100%. I know that all growers lose plants....