GM NP246 Clutch Pack Rebuild
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ค. 2017
- GM NP246 Clutch Pack Rebuild
There are a few tools needed to rebuild the General Motors and Chevrolet, NP (New Process) 246 Transfer Case, many can be made/fabricated or bought on Amazon, EBay. Just remember that when looking for snap-ring plyers you want ones that are design to be used with automotive transmissions.
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Strongway 12-Ton Hydraulic Shop Press
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Snap-On Transmission Snap Ring Pliers (set)
Tool Truck
Kent Moore J-44295 Clutch Pack Tool
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J-36370 Kent Moore Tool
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J-45383 Kent Moore Tool
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J-29162 Kent Moore Tool (only available in a kit)
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J-42737 Kent Moore Tool
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J-42176-10 Handle (for J-42176) Kent Moore Tool
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J-42738 Kent Moore Tool
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GM NP246 Front Output Shaft
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GM NP246 Front Output Shaft bearing
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Merchant Automotive 10001 Transfer Case Pump Upgrade Kit
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BRNY4080 Case Savers
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USA Standard Gear Oil Pump GM NP246 Transfer Case Oil Pump
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GM NP246 TRANSFER CASE REBUILD KIT
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NP246 GM NV246 Reinforced Transfer Case Half Rebuild Kit w/ Gasket Seal Package
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Hey, I rebuilt my np246 electric shift with the auto 4wd function using info from the manual, readers forums ( to see what they may have run into and learn how to avoid or apply ) and the few videos available, one being yours. First thank you for taking the time and appreciated greatly. Next, during my build I was able to find the kit to set the clutch up on ebay, along with seal and bearing drivers as can always resell. I hung on to mine and glad I have as even though I set everything to perfection I'm encountering what seems to be clutch drag in the form of a vibration, which I didn't really notice until I finally got it on the highway, start around 65 and then up especially. Tires and vehicle rode like silk prior to this. I've tried to see if the front driveshaft turns smoothly and it seems pretty tight when turning by hand, then frees up for half turn, then tight again, consistently which is what leads me to believe that this may well be the culprit. I've replaced most everything that could be considered a wear item while I was in there at it due to having 240k miles. ( New SKF bearing/seal complete rebuild kit, new pump and case saver along with new aluminum rear case, maybe overkill??, checked and rechecked multiple times the clutch pack set up and have even changed the fluid after around 1500 miles, just to see if that made a difference. It does seem the slightest bit tight when making turns which also leads me to this being a condition. I didn't realize that it could affect it as much in 2wd mode, yet am learning otherwise. I replaced all the u joints while drive shafts were out, I used balance rings available aftermarket, as knew that could become an issue and it is prevalent still. My 2002 Tahoe has been spared nothing much in the way of repair and maintenance needs as the new vehicles cost too much, can have problems too and I like to be able to keep my own up and not walk! New engine and transmission mounts were also done and everything set back to manual specs, driveline angles etc.. I've read where the factory spec for the clutch pack is too tight and believe I may have to take it back out and recheck/loosen it up several thou. I believe I had mine set around 6 to 8 thou after ordering new shims. I also used, what was supposed to be and looked like, factory clutches as I've read that some manufactures use a transmission type clutch and material which is not suitable for this application due to excessive grip. Not sure if this helps anyone or if you may have any response after some thought? It's always a great feeling knowing my vehicle inside out and to be able to figure out any problems that may arise without having to rely on outside sources for repair as I know what most are like after working in the industry in my days. Still, things do come up and I'm no expert on these units. Thanks to all those who respond as well and once again, appreciate your videos greatly.
I thought there would have been much more comment and discussion about the clutch pack reassembly. From the little tidbits of info that I have gathered from the GM community, it is this clearance in the shims that decides if your front driveshaft will be forced to turn in 2WD mode. Well, not only this clearance but it is the biggest factor if I'm not mistaken. It would be great if others could volunteer their knowledge. I know some of the 246 are designed to compensate for that front output spinning in 2WD as an update to the earlier cases that had a lot of complaints of increased or exaggerated wear & tear for the mileage. Thumbs up on your video tutorials and information.
You are right, the setup of the clutch pack properly will make a big difference on how it performs and lasts.
So you are aware of the topic i brought up? The front driveshaft on my 2003 Yukon doesn't have any tension on it when in 2WD mode; it doesn't turn with the remaining assembly. Other folks cannot manually turn the front DS and it spins regardless of drive mode selection. Have you installed the case yet & can you verify the preload on the front driveshaft in 2WD? It shouldn't matter if the engine is running, trans' gear selection, etc - ignition off, in PARK. Please verify performance in 4WD Auto at your soonest opportunity. Thorough feedback could very possibly help me a great deal. Thank you, sir.
How did you check yours?
Looks good!
Thank you
Curious why your not using the " J-44295-4 " spacer for taking your measurements? There are 4 tools that come in that kit, your missing the spacer for taking the measurements, or at least that is my understanding of it, Im reading the factory 2005 service manual, and it says to measure between the spacer and the gage block. What am I missing here ? Ive noticed that most of the kits, like 9 out of 10 are missing the spacer (-4 ), or maybe they changed the procedure at some point?
If I'm not mistaken, there is a 4th component to that kit which is an 0.085" shim that is needed for taking a stack up measurement on the 2nd design clutch hubs, which you have. The 4th tool component (0.085" shim) goes on top of the weight and measurements are taken between it and the gauge bar. I have a 2nd design NP246 apart now and it only has one 0.032" shim in that clutch drum.
The shims you have to order from the dealer. One of the reasons its so important to measure your stack up is no clutch pack material will be the same (close maybe) and as the components wear the shim that came with the stock TC may not be enough or too much. I have found two different styles of clutch drums in the same series of NP246 cases, I'm not sure which is better.
Correct. There was 1st, 2nd, and current design. The 1st was the two piece hub that takes the stepped oil restricter plate. The second design is what you have in your video. What I'm saying is you performed a 1st design stack up measurement on a 2nd design clutch hub. Our kit doesn't have the 4th component for that kit either. It was an add to it. Idk why other than service information says that 2nd design clutch assemblies requires that 0.085" shim on top of the weight before measurement. In order to set mine up, the plan was to take measurements without that 4th tool part (0.085" shim), then subtract 0.085 from my measurement. Hopefully im in the ball park of the factory 0.032" shim that was in this clutch pack from the factory.
Interesting, so what your saying is our clutch tools requires an additional 0.085" shim to be used on the late model drum and hub design? Do you have GM documents/instructions that state this?
I can get a doc ID tomorrow. I will update.
This is valuable information to have video documented, I shall update the above video and show the difference we have spoken about. I guess it's a good thing I've been too busy to install the new TC in my 2003 Z-71 Suburban, Kudos to you Brandon!
I can not find anywhere to order the top shim mine has grooves in it from the spring ring
Dealer item
Nice vid...been awhile since i did that vid but I dont remember mine looking like yours?
Yes, you have the two piece hub and and I think the first version apply plate (not made anymore), it has the return spring on the outer ring rather than in the hub. Did you notice I sort of copied your clutch stand (thanks again for the idea)? Your Part 6 clutch video th-cam.com/video/br5pU__mUcc/w-d-xo.html
When you make reference to the manual, which manual do you have?
I have a couple of GM pdf’s that were sent to me by a fellow DIYer’s that cover both type 1 and type 2 transfer cases.
Are the one piece hubs and two piece hubs interchangeable? I have a two piece, but cannot source a replacement oil restrictor plate for it. One piece hubs are available. Great vids, btw.
Very good question, I’ll have to go check my spare parts to make sure. But off the top of my head I’m going to say they are as long as you use all the related 2nd gen parts.
@@EddiCurrent This shows a pretty good comparison of the years. Looks like I may need some other parts if I decide to do that.
www.zumbrotadrivetrain.com/media/wysiwyg/catalogs/NP246_1999-2007_GM.pdf
Could you tell me what depth the J-45383 sets the bearing to?
Next time I'm working on that I will.
@@EddiCurrent I figured it out, but jesus. I couldn't pay a dealership for an hour to set the pilot bearing which takes two minutes with a $450 specialty tool... 🤬 Ended up having to use connections to get it done was way to hard. So if you post it, I'm sure someone else will benefit. I already drafted a model for the part, I'm going to put it on thingiverse so folks can get it without paying extorsion fees.
hi! can i ask where did you get the tolerance data needed with the tool? i was looking for it but never got it, i rebuilt mine but i didn't get that tool although it was working at the end :D
The person I bought the tool from included the GM information. Please keep in mind, these measurements are for the Type I transfer case (pre-2003). The measurements for 2003 and up are different. I’m working of a video that show the differences now.
Where can i order the top shim from i have grooves from the spring ring on top of it
Any luck in finding clearance specs for 2003-?
Dealer item
👍 👍
Thank you
I had to go back to the dealer to get shims and spacers.
I did 2
Hi there,
nice greetings from Germany.
The tool from Kent Moore J-44295 costs with shipping and taxes half a fortune for me. I wanted to ask here if anyone can help me otherwise.
I actually only need 2 dimensions of the tool.
1. From the ring j-44295-3 the total height measured with a caliper and
2. From the tool j-44295-2 the inner dimension in the L measured with a caliper. Can anyone send me 2 pictures of it? Please help me with this.
Best regards
Maik
I'll try and put up a video on it for you.
This tool is not something everybody can afford to buy, it's also a waste of money. The clutch thickness determines the total degrees the encoder motor shaft will turn from compression in 4hi to 4lo. Using an angle gauge and a torque wrench as used for tourqing head bolts would make more sense. It would be nice if you could do a video showing the number of degrees from one compression to the other with 10 inch pounds and a conversion chart with the number of degrees to shim thickness to obtain the required amount of degree rotation. Thanks.
Keep your eye on eBay you can pickup a used tool. So, if your just going to use it once, your would be reselling it on eBay when your done so in the end it cost you 40-50 bucks, that would be a reasonable rental fee to get the job done right. I think you have an interesting idea, I will be taking mine apart to re-shim the clutch pack and when I do I will look into your request for a torque/degree rotation solution.
The encoder motor stops turning the shaft when the encoder sensor feedback voltage is where it is supposed to be for the range selected. It doesn't stop turning or keep turning depending on clutch pack preload. The back of that shaft contains a cam with flats on it which is where the clutch fork rides. The purpose if these shims is to ensure you're not dragging the clutches in 2hi, or slipping them in 4hi from lack of preload.
So, if the voltage drop or current load is what regulates the amount of preload on the clutch, in theory an observation of how far along the "flat" or in my opinion an inclined plane, should be good enough. If the clutch compresses somewhere between say 1/3 to 1/2 way, one would think that is good enough unless the encoder also counts the travel that must be within range of the transfer case module parameters.
The module does monitor over current and position. So it will not turn to the point of breaking the shaft. The position sensor or encoder sensor is how the module knows where to stop the shaft in a fixed range such as 2hi, 4hi or 4lo. Auto is a little different because other factors come into play such as individual wheel speed to regulate the apply of the clutch for an on demand apply. The issue with this clutch is there is no real constructive way to "bench test" preload on this clutch. In 2hi they are released and should not drag. In 4wd they are squeezed to turn the front drive shaft. There are too many unknown factors as far as turning the encoder shaft with a torque angle meter. Where would you get a spec at? How would you convert this to shim thickness? It's unknown what the actual torque is that is applied by the encoder motor. As stared before, the encoder turns until the module "thinks" it's where it needs to be and then the motor "locks". When the internal lock sets, it's no longer performing work and it's position is fixed. At that point, how tight the clutches are being squeezed are solely determined by shim thickness. Most of the time these clutches don't suffer a failure and I do imagine there is some lead way with these shims. My suggestion if you do one of these, if the clutches look good, rerun them and the factory shims. If you replace the clutches, take the drum to the dealer and slip a dude $20 to measure it for you. Great discussion.
Thank you for your discussion on this topic. I believe I read somewhere that the TCM learns the reaction of the clutch to sensor reaction. I recently had the 246 clutch bearing failure and pump rub. I didn't have the clutch tool and replaced the clutch release spring with the updated spring reused the clutch pack and shim. I did add a spacer between the bearing housing and bearing. Before assembling the tail housing and with applying pressure on the output shaft to remove end play, I set the clutch pack height so that when turning the shift shaft with a vice grip that it ramps up 1/4 to 1/3 as fore mentioned, and it works fine, and releases as it should in 2wd. Also as you mentioned about dealers setting up the clutch height for a small donation, transmission shops can also do that for those with one closer to them than the dealer.