Morris Minor - Engine teardown - Project Daily Drive #19
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ย. 2024
- Tip Jar - ko-fi.com/thef...
Patreon - / thefatfrier
Follow me on Twitter - / thefatfrier
Todays episode was a bit of a challenge. I have never dismantled an engine before and yet here I am having a go. The engine was in a bit of a state but not too bad. Just an old engine thats not been looked after so well in the past. It was mostly a frustrating endevour of trying to get the engine apart without breaking bolts which I failed at. It was certainly a learning curve.
Disco Medusae by Kevin MacLeod
Link: incompetech.fi...
License: filmmusic.io/s...
![โฮ่ง! (SUGOI) - LYKN [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nFp4zjAARFs/mqdefault.jpg)
Greetings from Pennsylvania -US. I enjoy seeing you work through the issues you encounter on your project. I am just beginning a restoration on a 57 minor convertible (tourer). Lots of work ahead. . . I plan to watch a bunch of videos to avoid complications. I had a 65 Minor while stationed at RAF Upper Heyford - Oxfordshire, in the late 70s. Can't wait to drive one again (over 40 years later). Cheers!
I find it funny how you react to your engines condition as I have literally done the same job 3 weeks ago and everything was in worse condition than yours. I was thinking that mine didn't look too bad considering 😅 keep it up, loving the content as it's very much like how I do it in my garage in NZ. Love this format as it's how most people tackle jobs on there own
Im glad that youre enjoying. To be fair the engine runs great so I wasnt ecpeting so many nasties lurking.
Funfact: BSW and BSF spanner are interchangeable. Later ones are marked as both because while the shank size differs with the different thread pattern the head AF (across flats) are the same.
Just a friendly hint from someone who has had a few old engines apart: Never use the open end of the spanner. It chews up the flats. Always use the ring part or better still invest in a decent 1/2" socket set. And WD40 is absolutely your best friend!
Good to see progress with the Moggie. You are on an 'interesting' road Sir!
By pure coincidence I am taking a break from my 1100 Twin Cam '78 Mini and doing a friend's '65 Moggie.
Glad your back really looking forward to the next episode
Don't worry about the decoke. The holes in the exhaust gaskets are always bigger than the ports so it looks like the thing is coked up. It isn't as bad as it looks. Keep it up!!
One very useful tool when dealing with old cars, get ya self a good hot-pressure washer. Don't worry about coke build-up, just blow torch it off.
Hello .Well I must admit that was entertaining. I've been repairing A series engines for over 60yrs.one thing you must do is take all I mean all core plugs out and make sure inside is clean.also take the tap out and put a wire in side to clean the inside of that part of engine.gooood luck.i will be keeping my eye on you.kevin
Thank you. Im glad that you enjoyed it! This project has been a lot of fun so far and a heck of a learning experience.
Your doing well has good common sense 👍😁
Well I am really pleased for you that the stud did not snap off in the block.
Fair play to you for having a go>
Looking forward to the next episode !!
Getting the studs out in one piece was a bit stressful but i am glad that they came out. Im glad you enjoyed!
as its an old pump just put cuts here and there and make it have it, big hammer is the go-to tool for this. lol, you are young grasshopper......
now you can see why a good hot-pressure washing is essential...
Hi, glad you are giving it a go, no better way to learn. But your torque wrench is only good for a breaker bar as they should not be used for forcing nuts off. And you need an impact driver not a drill driver, which is not meant for that kind of work. Other than that keep on minoring and persevere you will sort it in the end . All the best 👍
Thank you! Im glad that youi enjoyed it. I think I need to upgrade my workshop tools but for now Ill take the engine to a mechanic for the timing chain. Cant justify the windy gun just yet haha
Also you will probably find when you undo the back coolant drain plug that it's completely blocked, it's pretty standard on these. I found a drillbit worked the best at clearing it.....until I dropped the drill and snapped the bit off in the block 🙃
it's just a 4 cylinder mower engine, easy, and simple, just pull up a short stool or a high one if you are on the bench. stick the tv on and the kettle.
Thats a clean stat housing....lol
theres no rust in the bores, it's a good engine.
Always put grease on studs, and treads, nuts bolts , so it can be taken apart later
Knock the ratchet with the "heel" of your hand to impact fasteners loose. That works often when just levering breaks the bolt.Also heat does wonders! CHEERS from HERE! P S You are asking too much of a 1/4 inch impact driver!
I wouldn't bother paying an engineer to decarbon the head. Just do it yourself with a soft wire brush (the ones that have goldy coloured bristles), you should be able to find one that will fit inside the exhaust ports.
The reason you had such a time getting the thermostat housing off is because the aluminium corrodes to the steel studs. I solved this by getting a local engineer to make me some studs out of stainless steel. They weren't expensive, if you want I could sort you out with some.
Same story with the water pump, get some stainless bolts for it.
Those two blocked water ports on the block face are meant to be blocked off. The headgasket has holes that go around them, completely normal.
Fire a pressure washer through the water pump hole in the front of the block. That will get rid of a lot of crud from inside. Works on the head too if you fire it through the water ports on the face.
As for the crankshaft bolt, as others have said, you need a proper windy gun or electric impact gun, not one of those little drilly bois. If necessary, take the whole engine down to a garage and get them to gun it off; two people can easily carry an A-Series short block.
Funny that as I’m watching this series I’m also completing an engine change (refers seemed too much like hard work). Am I right I’m thinking the crankshaft nut (starter handle nut) is a 15/16 and requires a Long reach/deep socket?
It's a Morris all you need is a hammer a few std English tools and a bigger hammer just in case. and of course a hot pressure washer.
Does anyone have details about the bolts used to attach the engine to the engine stand? Bolt size\Length\Thread? I'm about to start work on my newly acquired 1955 Morris Minor with an engine oil leak.
I’ll tell what Iv learnt from someone
Get small freezer bags and a felt pen
GreT for storing your different bolts
An impact driver does have near enough torque to remove the crank pulley, a half inch drive impact gun is the minimum you'd need.
Keep up the good work
On which planet
@@lilgampla One where they season the roads with salt during half a year.
I plan to get one in the future after this but for now I am just going to have to get a mechanic to sort it for me. Limitations of my current workshop
@@FMuscleZ28 A disgusting amount of salt on the roads
@@thefatfrierunleshed I'm in the same boat...
longer and methodical please
oh now u going the right way. lol
I think u will find its lack of anti freeze that’s done that
if you are getting the timing chain done, get a duplex upgrade, charles ware do one for about 30ish quid, got my done, worth the upgrade
Ive picked one up for the engine. Makes more sense than keeping the original style
Need a breaker bar on crank pulley nut be better dealing with timing chain whilst engine is out even if someone else does it for you
it managed to bend my breaker bar. Its gonna get sorted out by a mechanic, i just dont have the right tools for it unfortunately
@@thefatfrierunleshed Your breaker bar was a torque wrench. A good breaker bar is a must in any workshop. :)
it's a morris they add sludge at the factory...
What alternator do you have? That does not look standard alternator...
bought it from ESM. Its a modern one made to fit an A series
with regard to the crank dog, did you release the locking washer?
I did. Its too torqued on and rusted in place that I havent got the tools to remove it. bit infuriating but its the limitations of my workshop right now
Thermostat housings are famous for welding themselves to the block, think it's something to do with the dissimilar metals? You often have to break them and take them off in pieces!
Edit: wow, that coke! Was this thing running on coal?
My engine is full of crud after I had to use tap water (it boiled over and/or leaked it all out and I had to), and now it's literally full of scale. Not looking forward to stripping and cleaning it all out.
When I got the car the carbourettor needed a fair bit of adjustment so I think shes run rich for a long time. A lot of build up. Im going to run a full flush on the engine but I got most of the crud out. Descaling the engine sounds like a nightmare though. good luck
cheaper way of degreasing mate - paraffin! did it on my engine block and gearbox, so much easier!
I think ill be doing that in the future. Went through a fair few cans of degreaser
they never overheat. not enough pony's lol
No no no don't use a impact driver get a impact gun
Ive realised that I will have too but for my current workshop Its not worth the purchase so unfortunately im going to have to get a mechanic to do it instead.
@@thefatfrierunleshed you still should have a impact gun even if its a battery powered doesn't have to be snap on, makita or a top known brand
sorry I can't deal with the man bun.
Fraid that you gotta
Dirt!
☺️ ƤＲＯ𝓂Ｏ𝕤ᗰ