1st of all, good to meet you the other week at Elvington. I was on the Honda Bluebird. Damn shame the ole pinto dropped a valve, never nice to see but it’s not as bad as some I’ve done 🤦♂️
Arhh yes, nice to meet you too. i really didnt expect to be recognised! Dunno why, everywhere i go theres always someone who clocks me. I live and die in a Penguin shirt but deliberatly didnt wear one on that day. Never one to do things the easy way im now trying to figure out how to make my old Tl1000 actually go fast, although i was pretty pleased with 161mph on an almost stock bike which only had a claimed 165mph new. I know i can go nearly 200 on a stock Hyabusa, But wheres the fun in that? its rather like my work tuning old pintos etc when a modern 16v lump can make far more power.
You had the hat on for disguise too, but ain’t no disguising that voice. 161 was a great result for the near stock bike !! I only just equalled the factory figure on mine with Akra 4-1, K&N filter, power commander and dyno setup. Really pleased to say the bike has done 96K. I’m taking it back next month with bare minimum fuel (rather than the near full tank I had in) and lower it a touch to get better launch. You coming back next year to beat the factory figure ?
yes, i might even be back in september, bike is down at the bike dyno now to see if theres anything to be had in mapping a power commander, that and to find out where it actually makes peak power. I found a few more mph by dropping the rear sprocket a tooth as by the 1.25 mile is was definatly past peak power in top. What i probably will do is fit some swing arm extensions, that way i might be able to launch it, currently it just wants to wheelie, having to wait until the wheel comes down near the top of 2nd gear before i can give it full throttle must be costing speed through the speed trap
@@PenguinMotors yeah that was my issue too. I’m only doing September meeting on the Bluebird to properly beat the 176mph, then it’s back to just road use. So I’m just going to lower it, and take a tooth lower for rear, instead of swing arm extenders. Got a stock Busa to play with for next year. And a 1200 Vmax that i want to take just to see what top speed it will actually do.
Damn Graham thats unfortunate, I hope it was only a faulty valve and you can fix it simply replacing it, and take a very close look at that head. Luckily the piston is still usable and nothing is bent in the bottom end. Cheers from Spain!!
im 99% certain the head could of been saved, trouble is im also 99% certain no 4 exhaust port has gone porous, im which case it is scrap. because of the bore damage (although slight) I will put the block aside and use it for something else, so im going to be almost starting again, oh well its not like ford ever intended us to double the engines power!
My engine dropped a valve seat on my previous build . It seems you cant put exhaust valve seats with 38mm exhaust valves in the 1600 head otherwise you hit the water jacket or at least get bloody close . Anyway putting the car back on the trailer after getting dynoed and cooling down White clouds of steam in the exhaust. Proper gutted but life goes on .
We (Carobu Engineering) do a leak down test on all our engines after the dyno testing. This way, we have a baseline and it verifies that the engine is in good condition. A compression test is quick test, but the leak down test gives more information. Typically, we see 1 to 3% leakage on a fresh engine. Anything over 5% needs an investigation. None of this relates to the damaged engine - sorry for your loss!
A proper screamer that is. I wish he would make an extensive and complete video on porting the pinto cylinder head, or at least show us in detail how a properly ported cylinder head is supposed to look like. I'm gathering funds to properly port, and set up a cylincer head for my MK2rs with the efi, with 44.5mm and 38mm valves and a High torque cam from Burton. It would be great with some valuable input. I've got the David Visard book, and the "how to powertune the pinto" book, but a visual representation would go a long way.
the thing is theres more than one way to port a head! cam selection and rpm range can make a difference as to what will work the best. Very minor changes in shape can have a dramatic change in airflow and dont really show up in video/photos well. David Vizads book is good, but there are ways you can port a head he never even considered back then, infact there is a diagram in the book which is actually wrong, most airflow takes place along the floor of the port not the roof! In thruth other than a bit of clean up work i dont port heads myself any more, it just takes too long to do a good job. if you ask me best bang for buck is a race cnc head from Burtons. straight out the box with enough cam and carb it wil do over 200bhp
yes, block has very minor damage to bore, it would probably go again no trouble, but for its intened use thats not really good enough, i could have the block linered, but that reduces strength, as i have another block better to start again and put this one aside for somethine else
Any advice on fitting a Burton power disptick tube, mine is leaking out the bottom, do I need to tap it down more or would a smear of araldite do the trick?
oh bugger... when i used to maintain a hire fleet of pinto transits, cracked heads were a pretty common problem, constant high revs + running weak were a factor i reckon only once did i have a problem with valve stretch, freshly rebuilt head lost all the clearance [10 thou i think] on the exhaust valves after 100miles
they usually close up a bit, but once reset usually stay put, but this time they closed up a couple of times and by a fair bit. overheating them will cause issues, but timing certainly wasnt retarded, and it wasnt lean, plugs looked a bit white but AFR gauge said not ( i tried a new wideband just in case) and adding more fuel didnt changing the power poving it wasnt lean
Interested in the plug you used on this motor ? Whats your thoughts on plug indexing influencing flame propagation and overhaul power gains - if any. You could measure valve stem length and see if there was any stretch on no.4
@@PenguinMotors LOL old timer had me always index plugs on his race car when I help out. Told me it was especially important on xflow. Maybe he was pulling my chain. Thanks for the reply
some modified high compression engines you have to index the plugs or the piston hits them. That would be the case with this engine if it had standard plugs
Hi can you tell me the type of oil I can use in my 2liter pinto standard road car just with a fast cam engine was built new thanks Denis from Ireland 🇮🇪 🙂
Its hard to beat comma classic 20w50, cheap and i have put thousands and thgousands of dyno pulls and hours on the stuff. I believe halfords classic 20w 50 is same stuff
standard pinto AP6FS or APR6FS every time, just dont buy fake ones off the ebay/amazon/internet, make sure you go to someone who will be selling the real deal
Valves, well thats if they are a product of the last few years Graham. You've built loads of these over decades, the only thing that's changed over the years is the quality of parts for the worse sadly.
Sadly nothing seems to be well made anymore. You wouldn’t believe the trouble we have with replacement alternators these days, what ever brand we buy has a high failure rate, I now won’t fit any aftermarket ones, which means we lose jobs over the cost, but better that than doing the job twice and losing money
@@PenguinMotors Spot on, it's reached the point where buying top branded aftermarket or new genuine parts doesn't mean quality. New, old stock if you can get hold of it is worth the money.
yes it is a lot, but not that rare, the short circuit racers used to screw them round to those rpm lap after lap, and they use standard ford valves! Through the wonders of you tube I know what a spintron is, dont know anyone in the uk with one though. in fact its hard to find a uk engine builder that has there own dyno!
Ahh man. Sorry to see this happen. Can’t predict this but stuff like this is always out of your control and has to happen at some point. And are those headers 1 5/8 OD or 1 3/4 OD?
That's horrible after so much time and work how come u didn't go 2.1 I remember seeing a harris drag race pinto it had that much compression it wouldn't hardly turn over are u trying to build an engine that can be used on the road as well
love it, very interesting, love the channel
Another great video with some interesting points, love all the tests you make
Thank you!
Sad news Graham but very honest, keep up the good work. Regards Dave.
The man just keeps doing what he is doing 👍
Thanks for the video and being honest in you findings👍🏾💯
Sad news Graham, but that’s real life! I have absolutely no doubt that you will sort it and it will be mint 👍🏼
Thanks for sharing. Not everything goes right 100% of the time. No doubt you'll get it fixed. Thanks for the videos.
Thanks 👍
Hanks for sharing the bad, must be tough
1st of all, good to meet you the other week at Elvington. I was on the Honda Bluebird.
Damn shame the ole pinto dropped a valve, never nice to see but it’s not as bad as some I’ve done 🤦♂️
Arhh yes, nice to meet you too. i really didnt expect to be recognised! Dunno why, everywhere i go theres always someone who clocks me. I live and die in a Penguin shirt but deliberatly didnt wear one on that day. Never one to do things the easy way im now trying to figure out how to make my old Tl1000 actually go fast, although i was pretty pleased with 161mph on an almost stock bike which only had a claimed 165mph new. I know i can go nearly 200 on a stock Hyabusa, But wheres the fun in that? its rather like my work tuning old pintos etc when a modern 16v lump can make far more power.
You had the hat on for disguise too, but ain’t no disguising that voice.
161 was a great result for the near stock bike !!
I only just equalled the factory figure on mine with Akra 4-1, K&N filter, power commander and dyno setup. Really pleased to say the bike has done 96K. I’m taking it back next month with bare minimum fuel (rather than the near full tank I had in) and lower it a touch to get better launch.
You coming back next year to beat the factory figure ?
yes, i might even be back in september, bike is down at the bike dyno now to see if theres anything to be had in mapping a power commander, that and to find out where it actually makes peak power. I found a few more mph by dropping the rear sprocket a tooth as by the 1.25 mile is was definatly past peak power in top. What i probably will do is fit some swing arm extensions, that way i might be able to launch it, currently it just wants to wheelie, having to wait until the wheel comes down near the top of 2nd gear before i can give it full throttle must be costing speed through the speed trap
@@PenguinMotors yeah that was my issue too. I’m only doing September meeting on the Bluebird to properly beat the 176mph, then it’s back to just road use. So I’m just going to lower it, and take a tooth lower for rear, instead of swing arm extenders.
Got a stock Busa to play with for next year. And a 1200 Vmax that i want to take just to see what top speed it will actually do.
Damn Graham thats unfortunate, I hope it was only a faulty valve and you can fix it simply replacing it, and take a very close look at that head. Luckily the piston is still usable and nothing is bent in the bottom end. Cheers from Spain!!
im 99% certain the head could of been saved, trouble is im also 99% certain no 4 exhaust port has gone porous, im which case it is scrap. because of the bore damage (although slight) I will put the block aside and use it for something else, so im going to be almost starting again, oh well its not like ford ever intended us to double the engines power!
My engine dropped a valve seat on my previous build . It seems you cant put exhaust valve seats with 38mm exhaust valves in the 1600 head otherwise you hit the water jacket or at least get bloody close . Anyway putting the car back on the trailer after getting dynoed and cooling down White clouds of steam in the exhaust. Proper gutted but life goes on .
mega
Exact same rotor arm used in some of the vintage Maserati engines I build!
We (Carobu Engineering) do a leak down test on all our engines after the dyno testing.
This way, we have a baseline and it verifies that the engine is in good condition.
A compression test is quick test, but the leak down test gives more information.
Typically, we see 1 to 3% leakage on a fresh engine.
Anything over 5% needs an investigation.
None of this relates to the damaged engine - sorry for your loss!
A proper screamer that is. I wish he would make an extensive and complete video on porting the pinto cylinder head, or at least show us in detail how a properly ported cylinder head is supposed to look like. I'm gathering funds to properly port, and set up a cylincer head for my MK2rs with the efi, with 44.5mm and 38mm valves and a High torque cam from Burton. It would be great with some valuable input. I've got the David Visard book, and the "how to powertune the pinto" book, but a visual representation would go a long way.
the thing is theres more than one way to port a head! cam selection and rpm range can make a difference as to what will work the best. Very minor changes in shape can have a dramatic change in airflow and dont really show up in video/photos well. David Vizads book is good, but there are ways you can port a head he never even considered back then, infact there is a diagram in the book which is actually wrong, most airflow takes place along the floor of the port not the roof! In thruth other than a bit of clean up work i dont port heads myself any more, it just takes too long to do a good job. if you ask me best bang for buck is a race cnc head from Burtons. straight out the box with enough cam and carb it wil do over 200bhp
Presumably the block is still useable for another build? Thank you for sharing so much good info.
yes, block has very minor damage to bore, it would probably go again no trouble, but for its intened use thats not really good enough, i could have the block linered, but that reduces strength, as i have another block better to start again and put this one aside for somethine else
Can you check the valve length?, I wonder if the exhaust valves were stretching?. Bad luck tho.
Any advice on fitting a Burton power disptick tube, mine is leaking out the bottom, do I need to tap it down more or would a smear of araldite do the trick?
I’ve never used the burton dipstick tube but pinto tube often need some glue to hold them in/ stop them leaking
@@PenguinMotors any glue you'd recommend?
@@PenguinMotors what do you use for the rs2000 sump?
i use FAI RTV black silicone as sealer on almost everything
Was an EFL90 in the old motorcraft days.
Yes it was an EFL90,
Is the valve seat 100% concentric to the guide?
it was its not any more!
Probably not anymore 😂
oh bugger...
when i used to maintain a hire fleet of pinto transits, cracked heads were a pretty common problem, constant high revs + running weak were a factor i reckon
only once did i have a problem with valve stretch, freshly rebuilt head lost all the clearance [10 thou i think] on the exhaust valves after 100miles
they usually close up a bit, but once reset usually stay put, but this time they closed up a couple of times and by a fair bit. overheating them will cause issues, but timing certainly wasnt retarded, and it wasnt lean, plugs looked a bit white but AFR gauge said not ( i tried a new wideband just in case) and adding more fuel didnt changing the power poving it wasnt lean
whats better , put bigger intake or exhaust valves?=
Intake valves
are they with standard oil pressure?
Standard pump standard pressure
Interested in the plug you used on this motor ? Whats your thoughts on plug indexing influencing flame propagation and overhaul power gains - if any. You could measure valve stem length and see if there was any stretch on no.4
DR8EA or DR9EA. Plug indexing does nothing! Spark still occurs in same place
@@PenguinMotors LOL old timer had me always index plugs on his race car when I help out. Told me it was especially important on xflow. Maybe he was pulling my chain. Thanks for the reply
some modified high compression engines you have to index the plugs or the piston hits them. That would be the case with this engine if it had standard plugs
@@PenguinMotors That makes sense. As the xflow was running flat top pistons
Oh no...just watched right through, bad luck.
Has it got seat inserts in the exhausts?
Yes it has got inserts
@@PenguinMotors I had one leak years ago where it had just broken into the water jacket under the insert
Ta for filter info, I have a low mileage (low compression} Pinto in a motorhome. Have you turbo'd such a Pinto and would you advise it ?
lots of people have. i havnt personally turbo'd a pinto, but i have home brewed turbo conversions, there are always unforseen problems
I would say it's not worth the effort. I have a turbo pinto. Reliability issues.
Hi can you tell me the type of oil I can use in my 2liter pinto standard road car just with a fast cam engine was built new thanks Denis from Ireland 🇮🇪 🙂
Its hard to beat comma classic 20w50, cheap and i have put thousands and thgousands of dyno pulls and hours on the stuff. I believe halfords classic 20w 50 is same stuff
Perfect thanks and what spark plugs should I use
standard pinto AP6FS or APR6FS every time, just dont buy fake ones off the ebay/amazon/internet, make sure you go to someone who will be selling the real deal
Valves, well thats if they are a product of the last few years Graham. You've built loads of these over decades, the only thing that's changed over the years is the quality of parts for the worse sadly.
Sadly nothing seems to be well made anymore. You wouldn’t believe the trouble we have with replacement alternators these days, what ever brand we buy has a high failure rate, I now won’t fit any aftermarket ones, which means we lose jobs over the cost, but better that than doing the job twice and losing money
@@PenguinMotors Spot on, it's reached the point where buying top branded aftermarket or new genuine parts doesn't mean quality. New, old stock if you can get hold of it is worth the money.
8k is a lot given the Pinto valvetrain design...very difficult to know exactly what is going on, that's what spintrons are made for.
yes it is a lot, but not that rare, the short circuit racers used to screw them round to those rpm lap after lap, and they use standard ford valves! Through the wonders of you tube I know what a spintron is, dont know anyone in the uk with one though. in fact its hard to find a uk engine builder that has there own dyno!
Ahh man. Sorry to see this happen. Can’t predict this but stuff like this is always out of your control and has to happen at some point. And are those headers 1 5/8 OD or 1 3/4 OD?
1 3/4 primaries
18:13, is it just me or does it look like the electrode on the number 4 plug has disappeared?
No plugs are all intact
That's horrible after so much time and work how come u didn't go 2.1 I remember seeing a harris drag race pinto it had that much compression it wouldn't hardly turn over are u trying to build an engine that can be used on the road as well
I wanted to leave plenty of material in the bores, its the same reason basically no one tries to build 2.1 YB turbo engines.
Another great video with some interesting points, love all the tests you make.