The title of this definitely inspired a question I have. I work with horses and am just starting to make some of my own tack like bridles, latigos, etc. One thing that is asked of me often enough though is about repairs. I would love to see some sort of video on how we can make some basic repairs to leather items (not necessarily specific to horse tack). With so much machine stitching, what's a good way to stop a machine stitch coming unraveled and repair it with a saddle stitch? If a zipper starts to come out, how do you sew it back in while keeping it aligned? If a piece of leather catches on a fence post or wire and gets a small tear in it, what would your go to method of repair be? Etc... Thanks for spending so much time on all these great videos for us!!
Can you discuss different types of rivets and metal connectors (ie rapid-set versus Chicago screws versus rivet and burr)-- not just how to set them, but why you would use one over another? Thanks! Love the videos.
This is a great subject. Being new to leatherworks, I am not yet up on what leather to get for my projects (so far mostly knife sheaths and purses). I reach out to the folks at Weaver and they have been great at steering me to the right product for my needs and sending me some great samples - Thanks Weaver Leathercraft! I do have a question - Saddle stitch. I am doing saddle stitching but have ran into the issue of it is a major pain when you have a large project and the thread is literally 12 feet long! I knot each end to my 2 needles, but it takes forever to pull them through and I invariably have to undue a knot or two. Any strategies, processes to make it easier?
Thanks so much, we're glad your experience with us has been helpful! On your question about stitching, we are working on a video on all things hand stitching so be on the lookout for that coming up in the next few weeks. What Chuck does if he has a long piece of thread is "choke it up" which means instead of knotting it at each needle pull some of the excess thread through both needles so you have less thread to pull through. Then as you need more you can slowly feed out that excess thread. It's hard to explain in words but you can see a little bit of it in the following video: th-cam.com/video/XYp8RpVV6no/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps!
How about a review on Swivel knifes and blades... What blade works best for what cuts... And what knife is best for certain uses!? Thanks for considering my suggestion 😊
Oltimers used to say... "Long thread shows lazy hands".... Lol You can keep your thread to a practical length and when u run out, just connect the stitching with the new thread/stitching holes and keep on going ( if you do this correct you never know where you run out of thread and started new one!! )
james peters Not sure that is but I realize you can do that, but it is not as clean and dare I say as strong. What I have seen is people not tying a not and moving the needle as they work.
Bridal , harness all the different names that leather goes by it is very confusing . I hear leather advertised as vege tan but yet is dyed has wax ,etc. how do I know which vege tanthen I can tool in stamp?
Hi Rob, It should be called natural veg tan and sometimes it's called natural tooling leather. Bridle and harness leather is veg tanned but they have tallows and waxes added and they may also be dyed.
Is the key word natural vege tan? I hear the veg tan and quite often from different sellers. But yet it is already died has wax etc, Again it is quite confusing
Hi Greg, We wouldn't recommend it, because of the waxes and tallows that are added to the tannage it won't take water very well. It will stamp very well without being cased. You can see how this works in the following video: th-cam.com/video/gu5oDFAnQIw/w-d-xo.html
Chuck, thanks for the update. I’m brand new at Leather Work. I am newer that a newbie. I made a key pouch when I was in “shop” way back 60 years ago! The closet I’ve come to leather working is wearing a belt and a bomber jacket. I’m 71 years old and decided to start leather working as a hobby. My question is, how does someone like me get started? How can I know the difference between leathers, grades and thicknesses? Do I order pieces of every type and grade of leather then ask what each swatch is used for? What about different grades and types of leather that could be used for different projects. This could drive a person crazy!! Can you help? Is there a chart that breaks down the leather and “best” types of usages? Yikes!! I think I’m over my head here. Richard…..
Hi Arne, We have a video on how Chuck hardens his leather armor and that is by baking it. You can check it out here: th-cam.com/video/hwGW_qwpxYs/w-d-xo.html Below is his answer to another comment on wax hardening if that is what you are inquiring: After doing some research for a Leather Element it looks like there are all kinds of historic recipes for cuir bouilli. The name actually means boiled leather and the one thing common to all the documents is that…there was rarely any boiling the leather! Ha! Typical history… Boiling in wax, in my opinion only, is a real mess, it’s a bit dangerous and the wax smell never leaves, but, the major issue is rub-off and wicking. I’m in the South and, on a hot day and sometimes not, the oils from the wax will wick into anything it touches and that oil will not come out. Car seats, trunk carpet, costuming…other people (HA!) and anything else it touches gets oiled. It’s a great way to harden but there are too many problems and baking, or boiling, bypasses all of these. In all honesty, boiling the piece in water and baking it are, most likely, a similar process with a similar outcome. The heat being the trick. I tend to bake just because it gives a good hardening (look for a Leather Element on Hardening Leather) and the leather will take dye, paint, antique and top coat just like it would without hardening. With this, I know that each panel is going to come out consistent and in the exact color, I choose. Additionally, there’s no wicking and the leather, particularly on a hot day, smells like leather! It’s funny how many people standing around you will comment on how you “smell like leather”. Kind of cool! Unfortunately, neither the wax nor the baking/boiling are a perfect answer. The wax can soften on a hot day (which makes it not very good armour and reshaping can be an issue) and the baking/boiling can lose the form if wet, but, the baked/boiled, if thick enough (18/20 oz.), will be very resistant to getting out of form when wet. Though it is still a good idea to keep it from the proverbial “pile of armour in the corner of my shop after a rainy renn faire” problem (not pointing fingers here…just some personal experience…Ha!!) Hope that helps!
Hi Chuck,I am from India(Cochin)I make mobile pouches and use chrome taned leather for my work.Is there any way I could send you a picture of my work.I would like some feed back on how I can better my hobby
That’s a tough one! Both leathers are pretty thick, heavy and stiff and that is going to be one solid back-pack! With only those two choices I may say go with the Bridle. It’s going to have a good bit less body to it.
The title of this definitely inspired a question I have. I work with horses and am just starting to make some of my own tack like bridles, latigos, etc. One thing that is asked of me often enough though is about repairs. I would love to see some sort of video on how we can make some basic repairs to leather items (not necessarily specific to horse tack). With so much machine stitching, what's a good way to stop a machine stitch coming unraveled and repair it with a saddle stitch? If a zipper starts to come out, how do you sew it back in while keeping it aligned? If a piece of leather catches on a fence post or wire and gets a small tear in it, what would your go to method of repair be? Etc... Thanks for spending so much time on all these great videos for us!!
Can you discuss different types of rivets and metal connectors (ie rapid-set versus Chicago screws versus rivet and burr)-- not just how to set them, but why you would use one over another? Thanks! Love the videos.
This is a great subject. Being new to leatherworks, I am not yet up on what leather to get for my projects (so far mostly knife sheaths and purses). I reach out to the folks at Weaver and they have been great at steering me to the right product for my needs and sending me some great samples - Thanks Weaver Leathercraft!
I do have a question - Saddle stitch. I am doing saddle stitching but have ran into the issue of it is a major pain when you have a large project and the thread is literally 12 feet long!
I knot each end to my 2 needles, but it takes forever to pull them through and I invariably have to undue a knot or two. Any strategies, processes to make it easier?
Thanks so much, we're glad your experience with us has been helpful!
On your question about stitching, we are working on a video on all things hand stitching so be on the lookout for that coming up in the next few weeks. What Chuck does if he has a long piece of thread is "choke it up" which means instead of knotting it at each needle pull some of the excess thread through both needles so you have less thread to pull through. Then as you need more you can slowly feed out that excess thread. It's hard to explain in words but you can see a little bit of it in the following video: th-cam.com/video/XYp8RpVV6no/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Great! We look forward to the up and coming video and thanks for the link and tip!
How about a review on Swivel knifes and blades... What blade works best for what cuts... And what knife is best for certain uses!?
Thanks for considering my suggestion 😊
Oltimers used to say... "Long thread shows lazy hands".... Lol
You can keep your thread to a practical length and when u run out, just connect the stitching with the new thread/stitching holes and keep on going ( if you do this correct you never know where you run out of thread and started new one!! )
james peters
Not sure that is but I realize you can do that, but it is not as clean and dare I say as strong. What I have seen is people not tying a not and moving the needle as they work.
How about falconry kit? While not a big market, but it's still got some simple and also complex porjects.
Hey Ser you are good man
I would love to see side by side comparisons of what tooling looks like on bridle vs. Veg ...
what brand of bridle leather is the best for wallet cover or interior? I have Sedgwick, but there are other tanneries who produce bridle leather.
I made beautiful wallets out of harness leather.
Bridal , harness all the different names that leather goes by it is very confusing . I hear leather advertised as vege tan but yet is dyed has wax ,etc. how do I know which vege tanthen I can tool in stamp?
Hi Rob,
It should be called natural veg tan and sometimes it's called natural tooling leather. Bridle and harness leather is veg tanned but they have tallows and waxes added and they may also be dyed.
Great idea ordering the free swatches today.
Is the key word natural vege tan? I hear the veg tan and quite often from different sellers. But yet it is already died has wax etc, Again it is quite confusing
Yes, if you want a veg tan that is not dyed and doesn't have waxes in it then natural veg tan is the correct term. Hope that helps!
Do you case bridle leather before stamping like you do veg tan?
Hi Greg,
We wouldn't recommend it, because of the waxes and tallows that are added to the tannage it won't take water very well. It will stamp very well without being cased. You can see how this works in the following video: th-cam.com/video/gu5oDFAnQIw/w-d-xo.html
does weaver make a weighted double stitch split reins
Here is a link to our heavy harness split reins. www.weaverequine.com/products/doubled-and-stitched-heavy-harness-split-reins-5-8-x-8
Thank you 🙏🏻
Chuck, thanks for the update. I’m brand new at Leather Work. I am newer that a newbie. I made a key pouch when I was in “shop” way back 60 years ago! The closet I’ve come to leather working is wearing a belt and a bomber jacket. I’m 71 years old and decided to start leather working as a hobby. My question is, how does someone like me get started? How can I know the difference between leathers, grades and thicknesses? Do I order pieces of every type and grade of leather then ask what each swatch is used for? What about different grades and types of leather that could be used for different projects. This could drive a person crazy!! Can you help? Is there a chart that breaks down the leather and “best” types of usages? Yikes!! I think I’m over my head here. Richard…..
Thanks for the info Chuck. What kind top cost would you recommend for the bridle leather? Outdoor saddle tack
Thanks Chuck great info
Thank you, Ty!
What about sewing cartridge loops for a gunbelt?
Hey Chuck it's Nick. It was a pleasure to meet you today. As I said in the store, I watch all the time and I've learned a lot. Keep them coming.
Thanks for the video! What kind of belt is this you are wearing?
Very useful information. Thank you for taking the time to share this with us. Mr Dorset you’re the perfect ambassador for Weaver.
👍
Defenatly some good advice here. Being totally new to this I'm gonna test it.
Heyjo love your energy, could you please some day talk about hardening leather, I mean rhe way how leather armor is really hard...
Hi Arne,
We have a video on how Chuck hardens his leather armor and that is by baking it. You can check it out here: th-cam.com/video/hwGW_qwpxYs/w-d-xo.html
Below is his answer to another comment on wax hardening if that is what you are inquiring:
After doing some research for a Leather Element it looks like there are all kinds of historic recipes for cuir bouilli. The name actually means boiled leather and the one thing common to all the documents is that…there was rarely any boiling the leather! Ha! Typical history…
Boiling in wax, in my opinion only, is a real mess, it’s a bit dangerous and the wax smell never leaves, but, the major issue is rub-off and wicking. I’m in the South and, on a hot day and sometimes not, the oils from the wax will wick into anything it touches and that oil will not come out. Car seats, trunk carpet, costuming…other people (HA!) and anything else it touches gets oiled. It’s a great way to harden but there are too many problems and baking, or boiling, bypasses all of these.
In all honesty, boiling the piece in water and baking it are, most likely, a similar process with a similar outcome. The heat being the trick. I tend to bake just because it gives a good hardening (look for a Leather Element on Hardening Leather) and the leather will take dye, paint, antique and top coat just like it would without hardening. With this, I know that each panel is going to come out consistent and in the exact color, I choose. Additionally, there’s no wicking and the leather, particularly on a hot day, smells like leather! It’s funny how many people standing around you will comment on how you “smell like leather”. Kind of cool!
Unfortunately, neither the wax nor the baking/boiling are a perfect answer. The wax can soften on a hot day (which makes it not very good armour and reshaping can be an issue) and the baking/boiling can lose the form if wet, but, the baked/boiled, if thick enough (18/20 oz.), will be very resistant to getting out of form when wet. Though it is still a good idea to keep it from the proverbial “pile of armour in the corner of my shop after a rainy renn faire” problem (not pointing fingers here…just some personal experience…Ha!!)
Hope that helps!
Hi Chuck,I am from India(Cochin)I make mobile pouches and use chrome taned leather for my work.Is there any way I could send you a picture of my work.I would like some feed back on how I can better my hobby
Hi Vernon,
You can send pictures to info@weaverleather.com and we will make sure Chuck gets them!
Hi, I’ve been working on my tooling skills 🥺 can you tool the Hermann oak harness leather?
Hi Sherry,
You can stamp it, but, for tooling I would do just natural veg tan.
Won't to make a backpack for the outdoor elements. Need some help . Bridle or Hornes Recommendation.
That’s a tough one! Both leathers are pretty thick, heavy and stiff and that is going to be one solid back-pack! With only those two choices I may say go with the Bridle. It’s going to have a good bit less body to it.
Awesome! Thank you!
Great information
Very helpful!
Can you please help build saddle bags for motorcycle please love the Chanel