A GAHT® system is not ideal for a location with a high water table. But one of our GAHT® designers may be able to figure out a solution for your situation if you want to email us or fill out a contact form on our website: www.cerescann.com/contact/
In areas with high radon levels, this is a possibility and should be taken seriously. However, greenhouses are less dangerous than conventional buildings when it comes to radon. First, you are not in the greenhouse for as much time. Secondly, greenhouses have very high air exchange rates. During much of the year, air (and any radon) will be ventilated outside, and the whole structure will be flushed with fresh air in a matter of minutes. Even if the ventilation system is not on, greenhouses have many more air exchanges than a standard home, mitigating radon build-up. In our tests of GAHT® systems in the Rocky Mountains (an area with high radon levels), the concentration inside the greenhouse was found to be slightly higher than outdoors, but much lower than a dangerous level. By no means is this a comprehensive study, so if concerned, have your soils tested for radon before installing a GAHT® system.
Have you done any mold tests on the air coming out of that tube? When hot and cold combine, there's always condensation. Is there water collecting in the tubes along with mold? You could build an air filter box at the end with a high merv rating but you'll be replacing it for $40 every 6 months. The thicker the filter, the more surface there is for air to pass. I'd go with a 4 inch Mer 10. Not a 1 inch thick filter as that'll clog to fast
Thanks for your question. There have been tests done to measure fungal particles at the inlets and outlets of the GAHT system and it has been discovered that there are less fungal particles at the outlets of the GAHT indicating some filtering or capturing quality of the GAHT system
@@CeresGreenhouseSolutions elaborate on the question OK, let’s see in the winter time when temperatures drop to the point of not being able to grow outside to maintain a proper growing habitat, such as around 48 to 52 to produce a tomato or maybe a vegetable what is your average temperature from the time the greenhouse drops or the outdoors drop to a temperature that you can’t grow outside to rely on the greenhouse to be growing in what would that point that temperature be from that point until your spring hits average temperature during that time what are you maintaining through those coldest times inside
@@ShaneKetchum Thank you for clarification. The answer to your question depends on how much thermal input from the sun you receive during the winter months. This article really helps with presenting different climate scenarios, and performance capabilities for the GAHT® system: cerescann.com/ceres-gaht-system-versus-the-ceres-ecoloop/
@@CeresGreenhouseSolutions So trying to achieve this in Western Washington, where it is mostly cloudy and raining 80% or more of the time in fall and winter, then this would not be possible. Correct?? If not, would you have other solutions?
@@scottl4124 The GAHT® system is still useful in keeping the greenhouse environment above freezing during the winter months in a location like western Washington. Although, since there isn't a lot of sun in the Winter so the "battery" isn't going to be as charged during the day meaning by the end of the Winter, the soil has retained less heat. Check out this blog on our website to learn more and read about the GAHT system functionality in different climate scenarios
Excellent system, and great video! Practically zero cost to operate and inexpensive to build (with potential to be even cheaper, IMO). Can you provide any operational data? If you can, please tell me: what's your climate like, and what temperature can the system maintain throughout the winter? I'm a mechanical engineer in Canada, and intend to set up something similar in a house.
For more specifics on the system, please email us at info@ceresgs.com as the GAHT operates differently in different climates. For more information on this, please check out this blog: cerescann.com/ceres-gaht-system-versus-the-ceres-ecoloop/
So my house has a geothermal heating and cooling system. I have a three season sun room. How do I take advantage of my geothermal unit to heat my three season sun room to turn it to a four season sun room?
we would need to know more specifics about your setup. Or we would recommend that you go back to the system supplier to see if it can be expanded to provide heating to your sunroom.
@@CeresGreenhouseSolutions so since the whole thing about a geothermal unit is to keep down on all cost, so I think I should just keep my door open on my three season sun room have a regular fan blow the heat from my kitchen to the sunroom right and still pay 20 buck a month right? Geothermal is supposed to keep cost of heating and cooling down
It depends on what you're growing first off (aka your plants required growing conditions) but, yes the GAHT® is effective to a certain point. In the hottest months it will probably need supplemental cooling measures like a fogging system or shade paint on the roof. Check out this blog for recommended system integration for different climates: ceresgs.com/what-is-an-all-weather-greenhouse/
Has Ceres ever implemented this system for a greenhouse that is already sunken into the ground 6 to 8 feet to utilize stable ground temps? Theoretically you could minimize the usage of the system by submerging the greenhouse itself and only rely on the system when temps reach very low, or high, levels. Would that be reasonable with a system like this?
What you're talking about sounds like a walipini design, and while useful in some locations, a sunken greenhouse does not function well in locations where the angle of the sun can get very low during the winter seasons.
To date we have never installed a house GAHT® system. This does not mean it is not possible. We just have not installed one. Before considering this option there are two concerns you should be aware of: 1. Radon 2. Mold Radon can be tested. And even if there is radon, it is more significant to watch the rate at which it accumulates. In the worst case scenario, if radon is detected the GAHT® system can always be shut off. According to studies that were performed by the University of Minnesota on several GAHT® systems where mold was tested no elevated spores were detected. It is important to keep in mind this is one study, and they were conducted on greenhouses and not homes. When trying to mitigate mold in the home you could use a filtration system with a UV lamp. It is important to look at ducting system- how to get air through the system. We can help with the design of a new system, but it is harder to work with existing ones. Understanding these precautions is necessary if you decide to try this system on a house. Please consult us if you are thinking of a house GAHT®.
@@CeresGreenhouseSolutions Perhaps one way to mitigate mold is to decrease the humidity with a dehumidifier at the point of entry of the house. There's a guy on YT doing this with his house, "House in the Earth" or something.
Hi there, on our website there are options for different types of GAHT™ plans:ceresgs.com/environmental-controls/gaht/ . The plans come with material lists and a Ceres rep can make recommendations on where to buy the materials.
Greenhouses are less dangerous than conventional buildings when it comes to radon. First, you are not in the greenhouse for as much time. Secondly, greenhouses have very high air exchange rates. During much of the year, air (and any radon) will be ventilated outside, and the whole structure will be flushed with fresh air in a matter of minutes. Even if the ventilation system is not on, greenhouses have many more air exchanges than a standard home, mitigating radon build-up. In our tests of GAHT® systems in the Rocky Mountains (an area with high radon levels), the concentration inside the greenhouse was found to be slightly higher than outdoors, but much lower than a dangerous level. By no means is this a comprehensive study, so if concerned, have your soils tested for radon before installing a GAHT® system.
Wouldn't the system be more efficient if the grid of pipes were in the soil outside the greenhouse? In your system you are heating the soil of your greenhouse in the summer and cooling the soil in the winter.
It depends on where you're located and whether you'll want to use your GAHT® more for heating or cooling. But it is possible to install this system outside the greenhouse footprint, read this article for more detail: ceresgs.com/adding-a-gaht-to-an-existing-greenhouse/
@@CeresGreenhouseSolutions Im not sure why you would pump the cold air from the greenhouse into the soil of the greenhouse to warm the air. You aren't bringing heat into the system. You are just moving the heat from the soil to the air, and since soil conducts heat way better than air the entire system will cool quicker.
@@BigDoggyDad It depends on how much thermal energy you were able to bring into the soil during the day when the sun was up and heating the greenhouse environment. If there wasn't very much heat sinkage then the soil will only be able to heat the incoming cold air to 55-65 degrees. For some growing environments, this is sufficient, but if your plants require more elevated temperatures, then an additional heater may be needed.
You are using air to transfer heat from point to another instead of liquid such as water. This means, the cooling results will not be great. Using liquid is better to move the heat out. Also the air pipes will have draining holes for water vapor will be a very good spots for bacterial growth that will fly with the air to the greenhouse. What do you think?
Read about our EcoLoop™ solution here: ceresgs.com/environmental-controls/ecoloop-sunchamber/ and read our FAQ page on the GAHT® system here: ceresgs.com/environmental-controls/gaht/ these should answer your questions. Research has shown that our GAHT® system actually filters the air that runs through it. If you have any more questions, please contact us by emailing info@ceresgs.com or filling out a contact form here: www.ceresgs.com/contact/
I would have to agree with WW34. We have two large greenhouses and we tested the air transfer system in one of them and the transfer of heat was minimal. Less than one deg f. We then tested an inclosed liquid system and we were able to gain approximately 10-12 deg F. In our experience the GAHT system was not able to yield any desirable heat transfer. We now use a Solar Thermal system on our roof with pex tubing in the ground and are able to keep cold crops year round. We live in Colorado at 5700 ft.
In certain climates, with really cold winters or really hot summers, the GAHT® system is a supplemental heating or cooling system. Either way it still reduces the growers reliance on fossil fuels to heat or cool the growing environment. To help you understand the GAHT®’s capabilities a little better, check out this blog that presents different greenhouse climate scenarios: cerescann.com/ceres-gaht-system-versus-the-ceres-ecoloop/
Perfection. Short. Sweet. To the point. Thank you for this timely and informative video! 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
You are so welcome. Let us know if we can provide any more information
Wow. Sucn ingenuity. We've come a long way from breaking nuts with rocks.
Awesome...so how about those at a higher water table? My property, dig down 2' to 3' and its water near year around....
A GAHT® system is not ideal for a location with a high water table. But one of our GAHT® designers may be able to figure out a solution for your situation if you want to email us or fill out a contact form on our website: www.cerescann.com/contact/
Your best bet is to incorporate raised beds to gain extra depth
Are there any concerns about Radon with a GAHT system? if you are in an area with radon, what mitigations do you think could be performed?
In areas with high radon levels, this is a possibility and should be taken seriously. However, greenhouses are less dangerous than conventional buildings when it comes to radon. First, you are not in the greenhouse for as much time. Secondly, greenhouses have very high air exchange rates. During much of the year, air (and any radon) will be ventilated outside, and the whole structure will be flushed with fresh air in a matter of minutes. Even if the ventilation system is not on, greenhouses have many more air exchanges than a standard home, mitigating radon build-up. In our tests of GAHT® systems in the Rocky Mountains (an area with high radon levels), the concentration inside the greenhouse was found to be slightly higher than outdoors, but much lower than a dangerous level. By no means is this a comprehensive study, so if concerned, have your soils tested for radon before installing a GAHT® system.
@@CeresGreenhouseSolutions thanks for the thoughtful and informative reply.
Have you done any mold tests on the air coming out of that tube? When hot and cold combine, there's always condensation. Is there water collecting in the tubes along with mold? You could build an air filter box at the end with a high merv rating but you'll be replacing it for $40 every 6 months. The thicker the filter, the more surface there is for air to pass. I'd go with a 4 inch Mer 10. Not a 1 inch thick filter as that'll clog to fast
Thanks for your question. There have been tests done to measure fungal particles at the inlets and outlets of the GAHT system and it has been discovered that there are less fungal particles at the outlets of the GAHT indicating some filtering or capturing quality of the GAHT system
I would like to know your average temperature for the winter time
Can you elaborate on your question?
@@CeresGreenhouseSolutions elaborate on the question OK, let’s see in the winter time when temperatures drop to the point of not being able to grow outside to maintain a proper growing habitat, such as around 48 to 52 to produce a tomato or maybe a vegetable what is your average temperature from the time the greenhouse drops or the outdoors drop to a temperature that you can’t grow outside to rely on the greenhouse to be growing in what would that point that temperature be from that point until your spring hits average temperature during that time what are you maintaining through those coldest times inside
@@ShaneKetchum Thank you for clarification. The answer to your question depends on how much thermal input from the sun you receive during the winter months. This article really helps with presenting different climate scenarios, and performance capabilities for the GAHT® system: cerescann.com/ceres-gaht-system-versus-the-ceres-ecoloop/
@@CeresGreenhouseSolutions So trying to achieve this in Western Washington, where it is mostly cloudy and raining 80% or more of the time in fall and winter, then this would not be possible. Correct?? If not, would you have other solutions?
@@scottl4124 The GAHT® system is still useful in keeping the greenhouse environment above freezing during the winter months in a location like western Washington. Although, since there isn't a lot of sun in the Winter so the "battery" isn't going to be as charged during the day meaning by the end of the Winter, the soil has retained less heat. Check out this blog on our website to learn more and read about the GAHT system functionality in different climate scenarios
Excellent system, and great video! Practically zero cost to operate and inexpensive to build (with potential to be even cheaper, IMO). Can you provide any operational data? If you can, please tell me: what's your climate like, and what temperature can the system maintain throughout the winter? I'm a mechanical engineer in Canada, and intend to set up something similar in a house.
For more specifics on the system, please email us at info@ceresgs.com as the GAHT operates differently in different climates. For more information on this, please check out this blog: cerescann.com/ceres-gaht-system-versus-the-ceres-ecoloop/
Would it be possible to get you on a live stream chat on your greenhouse after the new year?
It's possible! Email us at info@ceresgs.com to inquire further
So my house has a geothermal heating and cooling system. I have a three season sun room. How do I take advantage of my geothermal unit to heat my three season sun room to turn it to a four season sun room?
we would need to know more specifics about your setup. Or we would recommend that you go back to the system supplier to see if it can be expanded to provide heating to your sunroom.
@@CeresGreenhouseSolutions so since the whole thing about a geothermal unit is to keep down on all cost, so I think I should just keep my door open on my three season sun room have a regular fan blow the heat from my kitchen to the sunroom right and still pay 20 buck a month right? Geothermal is supposed to keep cost of heating and cooling down
❤storage is a part of the process but I believe that could be done with the air,getting hot in the greenhouse
How well does it cool for the low desert?
It depends on what you're growing first off (aka your plants required growing conditions) but, yes the GAHT® is effective to a certain point. In the hottest months it will probably need supplemental cooling measures like a fogging system or shade paint on the roof. Check out this blog for recommended system integration for different climates: ceresgs.com/what-is-an-all-weather-greenhouse/
Would this work for zone 5 in western Massachusetts?
This system will work but you will most likely need supplemental heating
@@CeresGreenhouseSolutions what would something like this cost ?
@@pronatorteres1 you can find more about our GAHT® pricing here: ceresgs.com/environmental-controls/gaht/
Has Ceres ever implemented this system for a greenhouse that is already sunken into the ground 6 to 8 feet to utilize stable ground temps? Theoretically you could minimize the usage of the system by submerging the greenhouse itself and only rely on the system when temps reach very low, or high, levels. Would that be reasonable with a system like this?
What you're talking about sounds like a walipini design, and while useful in some locations, a sunken greenhouse does not function well in locations where the angle of the sun can get very low during the winter seasons.
Can this system work for home cooling/hearting?
To date we have never installed a house GAHT® system. This does not mean it is not possible. We just have not installed one. Before considering this option there are two concerns you should be aware of:
1. Radon
2. Mold
Radon can be tested. And even if there is radon, it is more significant to watch the rate at which it accumulates. In the worst case scenario, if radon is detected the GAHT® system can always be shut off.
According to studies that were performed by the University of Minnesota on several GAHT® systems where mold was tested no elevated spores were detected. It is important to keep in mind this is one study, and they were conducted on greenhouses and not homes.
When trying to mitigate mold in the home you could use a filtration system with a UV lamp. It is important to look at ducting system- how to get air through the system. We can help with the design of a new system, but it is harder to work with existing ones.
Understanding these precautions is necessary if you decide to try this system on a house. Please consult us if you are thinking of a house GAHT®.
@@CeresGreenhouseSolutions thank you for the information.
@@CeresGreenhouseSolutions Perhaps one way to mitigate mold is to decrease the humidity with a dehumidifier at the point of entry of the house. There's a guy on YT doing this with his house, "House in the Earth" or something.
Rad!
Hello, where we can buy this type of pipes ?
Hi there, on our website there are options for different types of GAHT™ plans:ceresgs.com/environmental-controls/gaht/ . The plans come with material lists and a Ceres rep can make recommendations on where to buy the materials.
Isn’t that pumping nice juicy radon?
Greenhouses are less dangerous than conventional buildings when it comes to radon. First, you are not in the greenhouse for as much time. Secondly, greenhouses have very high air exchange rates. During much of the year, air (and any radon) will be ventilated outside, and the whole structure will be flushed with fresh air in a matter of minutes. Even if the ventilation system is not on, greenhouses have many more air exchanges than a standard home, mitigating radon build-up. In our tests of GAHT® systems in the Rocky Mountains (an area with high radon levels), the concentration inside the greenhouse was found to be slightly higher than outdoors, but much lower than a dangerous level. By no means is this a comprehensive study, so if concerned, have your soils tested for radon before installing a GAHT® system.
Wouldn't the system be more efficient if the grid of pipes were in the soil outside the greenhouse? In your system you are heating the soil of your greenhouse in the summer and cooling the soil in the winter.
It depends on where you're located and whether you'll want to use your GAHT® more for heating or cooling. But it is possible to install this system outside the greenhouse footprint, read this article for more detail: ceresgs.com/adding-a-gaht-to-an-existing-greenhouse/
@@CeresGreenhouseSolutions Im not sure why you would pump the cold air from the greenhouse into the soil of the greenhouse to warm the air. You aren't bringing heat into the system. You are just moving the heat from the soil to the air, and since soil conducts heat way better than air the entire system will cool quicker.
@@BigDoggyDad It depends on how much thermal energy you were able to bring into the soil during the day when the sun was up and heating the greenhouse environment. If there wasn't very much heat sinkage then the soil will only be able to heat the incoming cold air to 55-65 degrees. For some growing environments, this is sufficient, but if your plants require more elevated temperatures, then an additional heater may be needed.
You are using air to transfer heat from point to another instead of liquid such as water. This means, the cooling results will not be great. Using liquid is better to move the heat out. Also the air pipes will have draining holes for water vapor will be a very good spots for bacterial growth that will fly with the air to the greenhouse. What do you think?
Read about our EcoLoop™ solution here: ceresgs.com/environmental-controls/ecoloop-sunchamber/ and read our FAQ page on the GAHT® system here: ceresgs.com/environmental-controls/gaht/ these should answer your questions. Research has shown that our GAHT® system actually filters the air that runs through it. If you have any more questions, please contact us by emailing info@ceresgs.com or filling out a contact form here: www.ceresgs.com/contact/
@@CeresGreenhouseSolutions thanks, I will check them up right away
I would have to agree with WW34. We have two large greenhouses and we tested the air transfer system in one of them and the transfer of heat was minimal. Less than one deg f. We then tested an inclosed liquid system and we were able to gain approximately 10-12 deg F. In our experience the GAHT system was not able to yield any desirable heat transfer. We now use a Solar Thermal system on our roof with pex tubing in the ground and are able to keep cold crops year round. We live in Colorado at 5700 ft.
@@ACsailing kindly share with us some links to your project. İ would love to see how you combined solar with geothermal heating to ur greenhouse
Do you ever see an increase in CO2 in the air from its reuse in winter?
Sounds like a bunch .... ~ of hot air~ ....
Where's the video in the coldest part of winter ....????
In certain climates, with really cold winters or really hot summers, the GAHT® system is a supplemental heating or cooling system. Either way it still reduces the growers reliance on fossil fuels to heat or cool the growing environment. To help you understand the GAHT®’s capabilities a little better, check out this blog that presents different greenhouse climate scenarios: cerescann.com/ceres-gaht-system-versus-the-ceres-ecoloop/