@@timewarpgolf Great to hear from you Gavin I keep having a peep at your TH-cam bits. Yep my best to your wife and fellow owl it was just utterly outstanding how we played in the last few weeks we’ve got a manager to die for im hoping our stupid owner doesn’t drive him out. Aiming for much more next year if we can get some good players in.
Hi Gavin, thanks for the video! Very useful. Two questions: I have some bended hickory shafts. Does it help to straithen them out with in a wooden mold with a heat-gun? Or does it come back in a bended form? Can you give me a link for the leather golf bag? I have only a couple of old canvas(/leather) bags which are too brittle to walk the course.
Hi Gavin, I visited your website in hopes you had a link for pricing on a set. I am currently looking for a set to play with in the eastern United States
hi... I have some iron sets on my website www.hickory-golf.co.uk and I lost on eBay... my seller name is TimewarpGolf and I tend to list clubs with a red tartan background... I have a couple of sets ,( woods + irons+ putter) on eBay. drop me a line at my email if further assistance/advice required. info@timewarpgolf.com
Many thanks Gavin for a very useful video. I have been watching your videos as I put back into service my grandfather's clubs. I have restored the grips and redone the whipping as well as revarnish the shafts with shellac. I have a question on the whipping. Does it help to add an inch or so of whipping about 5 inches above the hosel to try and stop the shaft splitting? Also, did you make your own archers rest, and if so what wood did you use and what method for the V groove?
in my experience there is no need to add extra whipping in the shaft itself if the shaft is properly seated into the head with no extraneous movement between the two. it was NEVER done 100 years ago but has grown as a thing done by hickory players in recent years. The only time I have done it is if there's a tiny visible stress crack in shaft that doesn't quite warrant changing the shaft at that time. Regarding the archers rest...I just used a long piece of timber that I had to hand...was a roof joist at one time...so it's a softwood...not anything special...just set up my table saw to cut a 45 Deg cut and did it by eye. hope that helps.
@@timewarpgolf Thanks Gavin, very clear. however I did have a head fly off a mashie as I hit it a week ago. The shaft had snapped around the pin inside the hosel and I am scared it will happen with other clubs. Is this common and is there a way to tell if this might be an issue? The shaft was not loose at all in the hosel
@@andrewf4797 ahh ok. so the shafts on irons can fail (break) in a number of ways. 1) most common is a slanting fracture a few inches above the hosel... caused by repeated loading as the shaft flexes. 2 ) the head can sheer clean off at top of hosel leaving the cone of shaft still in the head 3) it can break at the pin as you describe 4) they can break under the grip...usually as a result of woodworm. when the shear off at, or in the hosel, it'll 99% be due to moisture creeping in between shaft and hosel and over time weakening the wood. Even if no movement can be felt before it breaking it's just possible that at one time there was movement and then moisture crept in, swelled the wood to tighten it again, and then over time...somes many years/ decades ... it caused a fatal weakening. You might have heard people say "you can tighten heads by soaking the club in a bucket of water overnight" This WILL work...but really you're just storing up a future problem.
Thank you Gavin for the Hickory Golf Equipment overview
Hi Gavin, great to see you super video matey, hope you got my letter reply to your card. Up the owls keep up the good work. Ian
Hi Ian, yes got it .. a nice surprise... thank you. Fingers crossed for a Great Escape year !
hi Ian, I was meaning to msg you ...oh...about 3 weeks ago... you can guess why :) ... I said to my wife in January I reckon they'll do it !! 😁
@@timewarpgolf Great to hear from you Gavin I keep having a peep at your TH-cam bits. Yep my best to your wife and fellow owl it was just utterly outstanding how we played in the last few weeks we’ve got a manager to die for im hoping our stupid owner doesn’t drive him out. Aiming for much more next year if we can get some good players in.
Hi Gavin, thanks for the video! Very useful. Two questions: I have some bended hickory shafts. Does it help to straithen them out with in a wooden mold with a heat-gun? Or does it come back in a bended form? Can you give me a link for the leather golf bag? I have only a couple of old canvas(/leather) bags which are too brittle to walk the course.
TheGreenTanners make a really similar golf bag.
I always take care of my shaft.!
Hi Gavin, I visited your website in hopes you had a link for pricing on a set. I am currently looking for a set to play with in the eastern United States
hi... I have some iron sets on my website www.hickory-golf.co.uk
and I lost on eBay... my seller name is TimewarpGolf and I tend to list clubs with a red tartan background... I have a couple of sets ,( woods + irons+ putter) on eBay. drop me a line at my email if further assistance/advice required. info@timewarpgolf.com
Many thanks Gavin for a very useful video. I have been watching your videos as I put back into service my grandfather's clubs. I have restored the grips and redone the whipping as well as revarnish the shafts with shellac. I have a question on the whipping. Does it help to add an inch or so of whipping about 5 inches above the hosel to try and stop the shaft splitting? Also, did you make your own archers rest, and if so what wood did you use and what method for the V groove?
in my experience there is no need to add extra whipping in the shaft itself if the shaft is properly seated into the head with no extraneous movement between the two. it was NEVER done 100 years ago but has grown as a thing done by hickory players in recent years. The only time I have done it is if there's a tiny visible stress crack in shaft that doesn't quite warrant changing the shaft at that time. Regarding the archers rest...I just used a long piece of timber that I had to hand...was a roof joist at one time...so it's a softwood...not anything special...just set up my table saw to cut a 45 Deg cut and did it by eye. hope that helps.
@@timewarpgolf Thanks Gavin, very clear. however I did have a head fly off a mashie as I hit it a week ago. The shaft had snapped around the pin inside the hosel and I am scared it will happen with other clubs. Is this common and is there a way to tell if this might be an issue? The shaft was not loose at all in the hosel
@@andrewf4797 ahh ok. so the shafts on irons can fail (break) in a number of ways. 1) most common is a slanting fracture a few inches above the hosel... caused by repeated loading as the shaft flexes. 2 ) the head can sheer clean off at top of hosel leaving the cone of shaft still in the head 3) it can break at the pin as you describe 4) they can break under the grip...usually as a result of woodworm. when the shear off at, or in the hosel, it'll 99% be due to moisture creeping in between shaft and hosel and over time weakening the wood. Even if no movement can be felt before it breaking it's just possible that at one time there was movement and then moisture crept in, swelled the wood to tighten it again, and then over time...somes many years/ decades ... it caused a fatal weakening. You might have heard people say "you can tighten heads by soaking the club in a bucket of water overnight" This WILL work...but really you're just storing up a future problem.
@@timewarpgolf Thankyou very much, that is very useful. I suppose with some clubs it will just be "the rub of the green"
Good stuff very helpful