Thank you I have to wait for a new printer this is so helpful I wish I did more research because I just print fails I change my settings and everything over and over it’s such a hassle
Another great video! I made a comment asking a question before I finished the video and you ended up answering it with tip#3 😅. Thanks again for all the advice!
Im still super new to the whole resin journey. Im barely passed the point of being constantly terrified of everything involved. I dont have room here for my own printing setup, but your painting vids have really helped me knuckle down and learn what I'm doing.
This is greatly appreciated I am only beginning to set my resin 3d printer in my apt. so ventilation is work in progress. Using A/C window vent kit attached to a inline fan which will vent fumes and voc's out the window. Reading other people's comments and your responses is also a blessing learning from other's experience will cut down on the learning curve. You mentioned we don't need to be printing at max speed and causing warping prints, what speed are you comfortable with ? Btw thank you for sharing your time and experience along with everyone here commending you and making great remarks and questions. 👍👍👍
I'm very interested to see that you don't add a drain hole to the top of the object you hollow out. I've always had the issue of fixing a hole (say on the top of the figures head in their hair) as I thought you HAD to have a hole either end to allow for drainage. I will try that next time! Thanks. Also, good point regarding the time to print v time to fix afterwards! Yup, even with light supports you still get little divets out of the printed surface. Cheers Henry!
I've never had an issue. Remember it stays a hole until it closes up at the end of the print. You might have a tad of resin come out when you take it off the plate, but not much.
What about a video on air filtration? I've seen videos of people saying it isn't as bad as people say and others saying it is very toxic. I've been wanting to get a printer but live in an apartment with no way to ventilate near a window.
A lot of companies are putting carbon filters in or on the printer to help with the smell. A lot of it has to do with the resin too. You can use water washable and it's not as bad.
Great video! I appreciate your tutorials and explanations so much, I've really learned a lot as I've gotten into display printing. I have a question for you, have you been working with Chitubox 2.2 at all? I'm curious if you will have any content related to settings and experience with it in the future. I've noted some differences between the the versions and would love someone to talk about them and the settings. Keep up the great work!
Interesting. I print the flat smooth side down and that is where I place the holes. I use support projection in lychee that automatically fills the parameters with light supports and the main area with thicker supports at an interval and that I don't usuall get a lot of warping by I do sand it a bit for the joint. Not saying any way is wrong it is interesting to see how someone else does things.
Ok so my question may be stupid but if there's infill doesn't that make it harder to wash and drain the inside? I always make everything with 0 infill am I making a mistake in the structural integrity and in the long run?
It's definitely not harder compared to supports. It helps with stabiliy and bowing out. No infill can cause issues due to being empty, depending on how thin you print it
Because I print the walls thin enough, it usually cures throughout. But you get some UV strip lights and insert them in the drain holes. I do that as well.
I use Chitubox as well. When I do an infil and then do auto supports, it adds a ton of supports inside along with the infil. I can not find a setting to stop it from doing it. It may because I noticed you are using version 1.9.5. I am using a new version. I also don't have an option for the support density that you showed in another video.
Yes I've heard that with the newer versions it puts the supports in there. That's why I stuck with the old one. The density is under another setting but I'm not sure which one. I'll be working with the new version soon and post an update.
Honestly, as much as Tip #1 can help you have to understand there is a significant trade off with it, you are losing quality on the textured / finished side of the piece which you are going to support. So yes you will improve the connection to other pieces but the quality of your print is going to suffer as a result. If you can support the texture/finished side that is back facing from the viewer, I think this is the overall best case scenario.
Not really. Between using less support density as shown in the other tip plus if you use medium auto supports, AND you use the correct depth on the entry cones, the pull is very minimal on the texture. I'd rather deal with that than have to force a warped straight edge and use a lot of filler. But to each his own.
@@TheCreativeCollector "Not really" is misleading, but let's be honest, there is a trade off to some degree. Supports take up space on the contact points and warp regardless of how neatly they are placed or shallow contact depth. The steps you've illustrated in previous videos help to reduce that significantly but isn't completely eliminated based on how resin printers work today. In previous videos like Wolverines arms/hands, you printed them 100% vertical with supports on the contact edges, why exactly would you have done that otherwise? It's obvious, you hollowed out the model put holes in it and didn't want to support on any of the textured sides or put holes on the textured sides to stop suction. There is no reason to have oriented the model differently because there was more downsides than upsides. Sometimes printing on the contact surface is the lesser of evils based on the complexity of the orientation of the model - a good example of this is 90 degree bent arms or legs. I appreciate your tips though I just thought you missed mentioning some of this and it would have been beneficial for beginners.
The point of showing people this is so they don't have issues with a warping model fitting together and causing problems in the end. So it's NOT misleading. I've never, ever had any warpage from anywhere on a model from placing supports. If you have, then you're not supporting it right. I've done dozens of models this way and have had really good success. And of course I'll print hands and arms standing up all day long. Why wouldn't I? It's more beneficial what way. So I don't see your point in that. And yes, there are times where you have to print on flat surfaces. That's common sense. It's a judgement call on your end. And how do you think mass statue production companies print these? They're not printing flat connecting surfaces with tons of supports on them. They would rather fix small blemishes on textured areas than using tons of man hours sanding and leveling surfaces. I don't know how to better explain it than that. Like i say in my videos, I show what works best for me. Everyone has their own way of doing things. If you do, then that's great! Whatever gets you the best results.
Hello I’m fairly new to 3D Printing and on the 3D infill part, when I hit auto supports it still fills in with both the infills and supports. I’m using the latest version of chitubox. I will greatly appreciate the help thank you for your time 🙏🏾
So for printing partial capes, how would you angle and support parts where 3-4 sides need to glued? I love my Wicked3D and B3dserk models but those superhero capes are the bane to anyone's existence. I've just had prints where the parts won't fit right besides of warping from support pulls.
Not sure if you remember my name but before I moved to a different place I’d watch your videos a lot, since moving i haven’t printed or painted anything and it sucks, but not only do i still have my ender 3 s1, I’ve just gotten my Saturn 4 ultra in, my first resin printer
Since I print hollowed at 1.5mm to 1.8mm it cures throughout. You can also use a small UV strip light run into the drain holes to cure the inside as well.
@@TheCreativeCollector I’m gonna be playing around with different thicknesses to see which I would like, will definitely start at your thickness and work my way up a little, I’m not good with electrical wiring stuff so hopefully I can find a uv light cable that don’t require much hooking up to anything lol
Been resin printing for about three years, this has been very informative! Keep up the 'new' format
Thanks, will do!
Best chanell for printing. Thanks, bro
Always more tips are helpful to stop any potential expensive failures, thanks
I can always use new info to make my prints look better!
Back to basics. Love it - Already sent this to a few friends that are new to resin printing!
Awesome, thank you!
Great to see you back Henry, nice little touch with the pop up of you explaining everything. Great information as always 👍
Thank you I have to wait for a new printer this is so helpful I wish I did more research because I just print fails I change my settings and everything over and over it’s such a hassle
Another great video! I made a comment asking a question before I finished the video and you ended up answering it with tip#3 😅. Thanks again for all the advice!
Awesome! Thank you!
I definitely want to see more of these video. Also more painting, color mixing. Thanks for your time and making these videos, very informative.
You got it!
Im still super new to the whole resin journey. Im barely passed the point of being constantly terrified of everything involved. I dont have room here for my own printing setup, but your painting vids have really helped me knuckle down and learn what I'm doing.
Love this channel & liking the tips to help print better. Thank you!
Great tips. I definitely like the back to basics vibe.
Thanks Scott
This is greatly appreciated I am only beginning to set my resin 3d printer in my apt. so ventilation is work in progress. Using A/C window vent kit attached to a inline fan which will vent fumes and voc's out the window. Reading other people's comments and your responses is also a blessing learning from other's experience will cut down on the learning curve. You mentioned we don't need to be printing at max speed and causing warping prints, what speed are you comfortable with ? Btw thank you for sharing your time and experience along with everyone here commending you and making great remarks and questions. 👍👍👍
Thank You
I'm very interested to see that you don't add a drain hole to the top of the object you hollow out. I've always had the issue of fixing a hole (say on the top of the figures head in their hair) as I thought you HAD to have a hole either end to allow for drainage. I will try that next time! Thanks.
Also, good point regarding the time to print v time to fix afterwards! Yup, even with light supports you still get little divets out of the printed surface. Cheers Henry!
I've never had an issue. Remember it stays a hole until it closes up at the end of the print. You might have a tad of resin come out when you take it off the plate, but not much.
@@TheCreativeCollector Good point. Definitely trying this next time! 👍
Awesome Man- I always have trouble with my Base warping on my Uniformation GK2 but not on my Phrozen Mighty 8K.
Très bon tutoriel cela vas m'aider beaucoup merci Michel Harvey 👍👍
Great Tips, I do the same things. Keep the great content coming.
Thanks! Will do!
What about a video on air filtration? I've seen videos of people saying it isn't as bad as people say and others saying it is very toxic. I've been wanting to get a printer but live in an apartment with no way to ventilate near a window.
A lot of companies are putting carbon filters in or on the printer to help with the smell. A lot of it has to do with the resin too. You can use water washable and it's not as bad.
Question: When 3d Printing, what parts do you recommend NOT hollowing out if any?
Depends. Stuff like hands, or just thin parts I don't hollow. I just maybe add an extra support or two.
Nice video dude! thank you! Could you show us (and tips) how to make a good layouting many parts on build plate..avoiding prints from falling?
That's something I plan on in the future!
Great video, brother!
Appreciate it!
Nice work dude ✨✨
Thank you! 😊
Great video! I appreciate your tutorials and explanations so much, I've really learned a lot as I've gotten into display printing. I have a question for you, have you been working with Chitubox 2.2 at all? I'm curious if you will have any content related to settings and experience with it in the future. I've noted some differences between the the versions and would love someone to talk about them and the settings. Keep up the great work!
I haven't yet but I'll be working with it soon. I'll definitely update some of my settings for it and share with everyone.
Interesting. I print the flat smooth side down and that is where I place the holes. I use support projection in lychee that automatically fills the parameters with light supports and the main area with thicker supports at an interval and that I don't usuall get a lot of warping by I do sand it a bit for the joint. Not saying any way is wrong it is interesting to see how someone else does things.
My biggest enemy is complex shapes. Mainly things like spikes or hair.
I’m new to the 3d printing world. Can I make the model solid or do you have to hollow them out?
It's better to hollow out
Ok so my question may be stupid but if there's infill doesn't that make it harder to wash and drain the inside? I always make everything with 0 infill am I making a mistake in the structural integrity and in the long run?
It's definitely not harder compared to supports. It helps with stabiliy and bowing out. No infill can cause issues due to being empty, depending on how thin you print it
Do you normally use auto supports or manual supports?
Mostly auto
So how do you normally cure the inside grid3D supports?
Because I print the walls thin enough, it usually cures throughout. But you get some UV strip lights and insert them in the drain holes. I do that as well.
Great video, I'm using chitubox basic 2.2 and I always get supports inside even when using grid3D supports !!! is there a setting I'm missing ? Thanks
I'm still using 1.9.5 version for that very reason.
I use Chitubox as well. When I do an infil and then do auto supports, it adds a ton of supports inside along with the infil. I can not find a setting to stop it from doing it. It may because I noticed you are using version 1.9.5. I am using a new version. I also don't have an option for the support density that you showed in another video.
Yes I've heard that with the newer versions it puts the supports in there. That's why I stuck with the old one. The density is under another setting but I'm not sure which one. I'll be working with the new version soon and post an update.
Yes that would be a great help!!
Honestly, as much as Tip #1 can help you have to understand there is a significant trade off with it, you are losing quality on the textured / finished side of the piece which you are going to support. So yes you will improve the connection to other pieces but the quality of your print is going to suffer as a result. If you can support the texture/finished side that is back facing from the viewer, I think this is the overall best case scenario.
Not really. Between using less support density as shown in the other tip plus if you use medium auto supports, AND you use the correct depth on the entry cones, the pull is very minimal on the texture. I'd rather deal with that than have to force a warped straight edge and use a lot of filler. But to each his own.
@TheCreativeCollector I agree with the commentary. ID hate to have all the nice side that people see covered in pock marks.
@@TheCreativeCollector "Not really" is misleading, but let's be honest, there is a trade off to some degree. Supports take up space on the contact points and warp regardless of how neatly they are placed or shallow contact depth. The steps you've illustrated in previous videos help to reduce that significantly but isn't completely eliminated based on how resin printers work today. In previous videos like Wolverines arms/hands, you printed them 100% vertical with supports on the contact edges, why exactly would you have done that otherwise? It's obvious, you hollowed out the model put holes in it and didn't want to support on any of the textured sides or put holes on the textured sides to stop suction. There is no reason to have oriented the model differently because there was more downsides than upsides. Sometimes printing on the contact surface is the lesser of evils based on the complexity of the orientation of the model - a good example of this is 90 degree bent arms or legs. I appreciate your tips though I just thought you missed mentioning some of this and it would have been beneficial for beginners.
The point of showing people this is so they don't have issues with a warping model fitting together and causing problems in the end. So it's NOT misleading. I've never, ever had any warpage from anywhere on a model from placing supports. If you have, then you're not supporting it right. I've done dozens of models this way and have had really good success. And of course I'll print hands and arms standing up all day long. Why wouldn't I? It's more beneficial what way. So I don't see your point in that. And yes, there are times where you have to print on flat surfaces. That's common sense. It's a judgement call on your end. And how do you think mass statue production companies print these? They're not printing flat connecting surfaces with tons of supports on them. They would rather fix small blemishes on textured areas than using tons of man hours sanding and leveling surfaces. I don't know how to better explain it than that. Like i say in my videos, I show what works best for me. Everyone has their own way of doing things. If you do, then that's great! Whatever gets you the best results.
If its done right you won't have that problem, but it's whatever works for you.
Hello I’m fairly new to 3D Printing and on the 3D infill part, when I hit auto supports it still fills in with both the infills and supports. I’m using the latest version of chitubox. I will greatly appreciate the help thank you for your time 🙏🏾
The latest version does that. I'm using version 1.9.5
@@TheCreativeCollector I’m on the 2.0.6 I believe
Is it better to use Chitubox standard or pro?
I use tge free version
Standard. Free version.
So for printing partial capes, how would you angle and support parts where 3-4 sides need to glued? I love my Wicked3D and B3dserk models but those superhero capes are the bane to anyone's existence. I've just had prints where the parts won't fit right besides of warping from support pulls.
I try and stand them up as much as possible and keep connecting sides up with no supports so they don't warp.
How would you make sure the grid infill is completely cured along with the whole thing on the inside? I’m super worried about that
Not sure if you remember my name but before I moved to a different place I’d watch your videos a lot, since moving i haven’t printed or painted anything and it sucks, but not only do i still have my ender 3 s1, I’ve just gotten my Saturn 4 ultra in, my first resin printer
Since I print hollowed at 1.5mm to 1.8mm it cures throughout. You can also use a small UV strip light run into the drain holes to cure the inside as well.
@@TheCreativeCollector I’m gonna be playing around with different thicknesses to see which I would like, will definitely start at your thickness and work my way up a little, I’m not good with electrical wiring stuff so hopefully I can find a uv light cable that don’t require much hooking up to anything lol
Why don’t more patrons makers use grid infill?
Good question. Maybe a lot of them don't know. I use it for all of my prints.
Used it once, it bended my Fep to hell!
Curious how it did that.
Never happened to me! I love grid infill.
Yeah not sure how it bends your fep. 🤥
where is density support? my chitubox doesn't have it
Depending on what version you have it could be listed under settings.