DYNO run 2 - bike carb 4AGE makes decent power and awesome torque
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ส.ค. 2019
- Here's the second dyno run of the bike carb 4age. This time we made non-embarrassing results. Power was decent, torque is fabulous (I could tell the whole time, didn't need a dyno for that). Unfortunately, the numbers between the individual dyno tests were a bit inconsistent so I'm taking these results with a nice salty grain of salt! For now. There is another dyno, but it's hundreds of miles away. Also, I don't care about numbers anymore honestly, the car feels great and it's a true joy to drive.
#d4a #bikecarb4age #dyno #buttdyno #mr2 #bikecarbsoncars #bikecarbconversion #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #ignitionmap #fuel #camshaft #tuning - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Very nice to see more people that enjoy in old NA cars where performance numbers are not the most important thing. There is a fun factor when u drive a car and that is what makes those cars soo special. Keep it up and looking forward to seeing more good content. Very good job.
134 hp is the only number I heard. ;) Let the fun begin! Thanks for sharing.
Hey that's not bad! That definitely is a nice usable torque curve. That's basically the same power I am hoping for with my SR20 swap before going turbo and more torque than I'll have. Should be my winter project this year. Enjoy the car man! :)
I'd save your "dyno money" and retro-fit an electronic ignition. Slap on some R8 coil packs (whatever works) or work some magic with the msd (holley) range. Then play with the timing maps. I wouldn't worry about chasing dyno numbers its a waste of money. Use the dyno for tuning. This coming from an ECU tuner.
Update: Spoke too soon. You're on top of it with the nodiz 🤙
he is using a Nodiz from Motorsport Electronics already so he has full ignition tuning available
Excellent point about torque and streetability... Can't wait for the next installment!
So nice to see someone on their TH-cam channel who builds a car and then actually goes thru the process of sorting out all the little problems so that it is ACTUALLY CORRECT. Most content on youtube now is buy a car, exhaust, wheels, coilovers, fender FLARES, install, pretends it's great for likes on youtube, sell it cause it is actually a piece of junk that looks better than it is, repeat.
Great to see a video about an old school normally aspirated engine 😍
Seems you have a decent figures now but the instant response seems awesome! Nice job man!
Really sweet man keep going
Great stuff good to see it making more power💪Would be nice to have a video of how to degree the camshafts as there isn't any for the 4age.
I promise I'll try making one in the future.
jafromobile has a great vid on cam timing for a 4g63
love your videos 👍🤣134bhp bro you did it!
your my hero I love the 4age 16v, good work!
Hey with the music this beauty makes I say it's more like 150hp
It makes 200 op. That's orchestral power :)
The torque is because of air velocity as a result of the smaller ITBs, smaller ITBs flow less air at a higher velocity and become restricting at higher flow, air velocity is a big part of how much power you make. Bigger ITBs will lose velocity at lower air flow (because the same volume of air will move slower through a bigger throttle body) but the bigger ITBs will stop the top end restriction and will definitely let you make more power. I have a 1.4L 8 valve motor I am planning on building up and running bike carbs (I've got a set of 37mm R6 carbs) so I think I will benefit more from the smaller carbs because with single over head cam the single intake valve per cylinder will be the restriction with air flow rather than the carbs. You would probably be a lot better off with bigger carbs since the DOHC can flow a lot more through the head, of course though as you say, maximum air flow in head (bigger ports, more aggressive cam, bigger carbs) will all trade low air velocity & torque for top end performance. I'm a big fan of your channel BTW, great content
That's a spot on explanation mate!
Love this channel
gosh that mk1 mr2 sounds beautiful
Haha ! Great ! As I mentioned in another video of yours, I'm really not into dyno figures, the only thing that really matters, is the amount of smile the mod brings you. And seeing how enthusiastic you are about that mid range behaviour, I'm really happy for you ! How about dyno apps ? I've never tried them, but maybe they could confirm the figures you already have before heading to that far away expensive dyno ?
I wasn't interested in dynos anymore after the first time, but I really wanted to have proof of how the bike carbs affect performance. You just gave me a great idea with apps, I forgot about those. Thank you!
Hi buddy, your idle screw setup is 3 turns out but what size is the slow jet? Thanks in advance and congrats for the results in the dyno!
Love your videos. I race a aw11 in the 24hours of lemons here in California. I also would love to see a how to on cam timing. I have built several motors and still cannot find the info to do this..keep it up! Thankz.
Thank you for your support. I'll do my best to make one in the future.
I was thinking you also replaced the internals and I would have said this was actually a little disappointing. But with carbs and power (~134 hp) and torque (~112 lb-ft ) being around the same, that's pretty good for an intake and cams.
Like how you get dyno numbers to show. A lot of guys build but never dyno
10hp is not a big change at all, as the motor heats up and oil heats up it will make more power because there is less drag. And eventually it will get to hot and fall back down in power. I used to work at a race shop and I would just do back to back pulls until it stoped picking up power. If you go to a different dyno it will forsure give you a different reading. There like snow flakes no 2 are exactly the same. That being said there a tuning tool, to see what fuel/timing/cam timing changes picks up power.
Bravo druže
I just finished building the valve train and bolting the head on the 4AG I am building for my carb build, I can only hope to get those numbers when it is finally running! This is my first time building an engine solo so hopefully I didn't measure any clearances wrong or contaminate the oil galleries >_>
Congrats on that man. Don't worry and keep going. My first build got rod knock after only 1000km, so I didn't enjoy it very much but I learned more than I could ever had by any other means.
My Honda Civic has R18A Engine and that's a pretty decent torque curve. Just 140Nm at 2000 Rpm. And it's also very fun to drive car
At this rate, you're going to be some sort of engine tuning god by this time next year. :D
Great video, although I've come to expect that from this channel. Thanks anyway. :)
Thanks man, that makes me feel awesome. But I think I'm fairly close to the power limits of this setup. That being said, I'm super happy with it so far.
@@d4a Well, that's a huge achievement for a DIY naturally aspirated tune, I would say. Turbos make it look easy to make huge hp improvements by "merely" turning up the boost... but what you did there, learning by doing and actually being able to show some significant numbers on the dyno, that's something else. So congrats! And we all get to learn more about engines in the process as a bonus. :)
I just gotta love this comment too. Thanks so much for your support man.
@@d4a Haha! My pleasure. ;)
@@mrsabidji Is such a nice guy. ;)
Power is torque x rpm. So if you truly gained torque at lower rpm, you gained power. Did you? Torque is meaningless without specifying the rpm, as no work is performed without rotation. Looks like you made good progress.
I think you should be able to see both the torque and power figures at all rpm in the graph.
I have nothing to compare it to. My point is that if you gained torque at lower rpm, you gained horsepower.. I honestly do not understand why you would gain much with a carb set up versus the stock fuel injection set up as a result of using carbs. Your porting and increased compression ratio likely helped power slightly as well. If you truly gained 20 hp overall, you did well.
Rene Neron, with boost this doesn't always apply.
Ik hes not boosted.
Anomilumi Imulimona horsepower is defined as torque x rpm. Always applies.
Rene Neron, +5 psi and got +10 hp + 40 pound foot of torque
So bigger carb diameter is better...nice to hear it
My head ported 4AGE bigport made 130Hp / 152Nm with megasquirt. What is compression ratio is in your motor? And you have more lift and opening time in your cams?
Compression is 10.3 - 10.4, 8mm lift and 252 duration on the cams. Ported head on this engine too.
Where are you located on Balkans ?
Greetings from Bulgaria 🇧🇬
Is this 134 hp at the wheels?
Pozdrav driving4 answers,jesi to iz Bosne i ti? :D
You didn't see less than 134 because it's not there ! :))
I think there's something wrong with the dyno results graphs. The horsepower and foot-pound numbers should be numerically identical at 5252 RPM (since power (horsepower) = torque (lb-ft) * RPM / 5252. So if you look at the HP at 5252, you should see the same number for torque in lb-ft since everything else will cancel out mathematically).
On your graph, it shows around 120-ish HP and 145 NM of torque around 5200 RPM. 145NM is around 106 lb-ft, and they're showing way more than 106HP at 5252 RPM. That's unpossible. Their measurements aren't passing a smell test.
dat musik at de finale
if the mr2 wheigt is around 900kg and 134hk it is quick i have a car with the same numbers but i have 190nm in my engien
AW11's with Sunroof and AC are 1035 kg in ADM spec. My Mr2 is an almost identical vehicle spec but running an AE92 100kw small port with minor mods. It does feel its age when doing steep mountain work. Going uphill, short straights with hairpins find me stuck between being too fast for 2nd and not quite enough torque to take 3rd. Doing the same downhill at full throttle in 2nd and 3rd results in brake fade within a few minutes. But on the right road, these power numbers are plenty for a great driving experience.
Why would you want to be at 13:1
AFR at idle? Shouldn’t you shoot for stoich (14.8:1) at idle and low rpm cruising? That’s where an EFI car would be. Does this have something to do with carburetors?
I answered your other comment. Stoich is 14.7, but how well a car idles at stoich depends on a lot of factors. Even an EFI car with extreme mods will have trouble idling at stoich.
@@d4a
I apologize, I thought the first comment deleted.
Thank you for this series. I learned a lot from it.
How many MM lengths are your trumpets?
Hmm, I never measured actually, but I think around 60mm from total (from trumpet base)
Nice video! Whp?
It's in the video. 134chp 112whp
What are you working on in the meantime? Also I loved the night drive video and really anything involving driving it. Your channel is really inspiring to me to build a car the way I want it to be built and to make it your own. My dream is roughly the same year mr2 with a 20V swap. You and sushpants are my favorite car youtubers.
For the past weeks I was helping around with the race prep of a 700hp Lancia Delta Inregrale hill climb race car. Amazing experience and I will make a video on it. Yeah sushpants rocks, I really would like to make some sort of collab video with him one day.
@D4A, that graph is a bit off.. I'm just saying this with a grain of salt but the 5252 RPM mark is way off for where torque and hp meet. From the graph, it's like 5500 RPM's.
Yeah the graph also ends at just above 7000rpm, when it should end at 7600. Why that is I honestly have no idea.
@@d4a oh okay. Hoping for that next test result. Thanks. Enjoyed your video series on rebuild.
That sucks about the dyno operator. I don’t care if the customer is spending $1 or$10,000 I treat them all with respect and appreciation.
Sorry to hear the dyno owner acts that way and doesn't seem that helpful. To bad you can't find someone that shares your enthusiasm for the car that could help you on the dyno. Best of luck 👍
Cam degreeing also change your ignition timing... Use timing light to check your base timing at idle...
And use idle adjustment screw to adjust your idle... Those pilot jet enrichment screw is to tune your afr at idle and wot range...
Dont use your pilot enrichment screw as idle adjustment..you will disturb afr and driveability at many throttle area
134 is wheel power.. and that more than 116 engine power stock
nice shirt
Thanks :) You can buy it actually. www.driving4answers.com/product/d4a-t-shirt/
Dynojet, problem solved
That not a huge difference for a rigged carburetor car