@@IsaacSchultz-lz8jctriblades on these motors are just too much load. it'll fry the escs soon. also theres something about the rotating mass or extra thrust or whatever. these super high rpm motors don't fly great on tri blades, as seen in the video.
@killerwhale with the 35mm props you want 0802 for it but those 36000kv 0702 can definitely handle 31mm triblades any of the new aio boards can handle up to 20amp constant
These motors are amazing. Plenty of torque to pull out of maneuvers. Great throttle resolution. No matter where you point it, it goes. I can't wait till they release the 40,000kv ones!!!
One of your best videos! You may have made more tech·ni·cal·ly difficult videos to date, but this one just had perfect timing and a well placed gag that took it to the top! Thanks for what you do!
I switched to higher kv motors and had similer weird wobbles at full throttle. Turned out my props were spinning on thr shafts cause rhey were too loose. LOL!
You should reduce prop pitch when you use higher KV Motors. On a tight course there is no high speed, so props with less pitch are going to bite better.
Damn they really spiced up those motors, i thought my NBD plaid motors was 🔥 when i got them almost 2 years ago, but i also run a 75 cuz i like to fly outside, bout to convert it to a fractal soon, i blew my aio last summer and never got around to fixing it, i keep getting different parts for it, lol, but I'm running a betafpv aio
Hey jb! I almost have the same issue with my mobula6. I did not change anything. The motors make the same noise like yours did. Also the quad flew away like yours. I tried to find an answer in your discord , but nobody seem to have an idea 😢 ordered the mob6 and can’t fly it. rip
Swapping to motors both lighter and higher KV would require changing filters, first and foremost. I had a similar issue with motor swapping Mobula6, I went from 19000KV 0802 to 28000KV 0702, and flight performance was crap. Jittery and noisy. Tuning the filters by following Ciotti FPV recommendations, and applying Quad66 presets I was able to smooth things out. Turns out, 28000KV 0702 are not trash, and are, if fact, based. I got about 30 seconds more flight time and much more power after all of the tweaks.
Hi Josh, Great video and review of Webleed screamer motors. I have been using [for my mobula 6 22,000kv. I just need to try these 32,500kv and see what happens. Thanks again for the video and information.
@JoshuaBardwell instead of motor limiting at 10:45 did you consider adjusting midpoint and using throttle expo? @ciottifpv recent had a live that went through it.
I really wish it was possible to make a truly indoor-capable tinywhoop with a Runcam Wasp or something. I'm so heavily invested in DJI digital that I don't want to switch over for just one quad but indoor tinywhoop flying looks like so much fun and a great way to spend the winters in my area when it's too cold to fly outside
I personally noticed a decent difference in your flight characteristics you were tighter to the inside lines for sure and just sharper all together .I personally find sitting helps I feel like it takes brain power to stand and balance not much but I feel like I just free that up when sitting down especially with whoops
I freestyle, but on higher kv motors, give bi blades a try, im my experience i get better throttle respinse with a little trade iff for sliperry cornering. In a few packs you learn the throttle and corner the same. I dont race seriously, but mostly freestyle.
Probably be worth hand finishing the prop blades, and dynamically balancing the lightest props you can get. At those rpm, destructive vibrations would be bad. Try to avoide supersonic tip speeds too!😊
@@divingfalconfpv4602 webleed, tattu and others make them. With BT 2.0. Its even more important to have heigh c with that lower capacity. Makes more of a change.
@@divingfalconfpv4602 Use BT 2.0 pigtail, it fits A30 and BT 2.0. I switched years ago to BT 2.0 but there were no packs other than BetaFPV to buy. That now all changed.
These high KV motors seem to be "crazy high power upgrade" right now. I think that will soon change and everyone goes high kv like this and it will be the norm. Sadly it wasnt when i began flying and i was having so much problems when starting out with a meteor65pro... evrything got sooo much easier with higher kv motors
You need some bi-blades I think, iirc tri-blades produce more torque/lift at lower rpms and bi-blades have less mass which reduces strain on high kv motors.
I remember on a 5inch i had wobbles.. i lowered the D something i forgot wat it was wat it was in the rates section i think.. from memory it was 1600 stock.. lowered to about 1300 wobbles disappeared at full punch. I always thought it was the frame but nah
No worries about what those jacked up kvs might do to an ESC? Tiny Whoop has a full on warning about using that high of a kv motor on their sales site. That warning gave me the cold feets and I’m going to be trying out some 27k kv motors in the near future since I got scared off from the 32.5k.
@@JoshuaBardwell if you keep flying those motors as hard as you were, please keep us posted about the lifespan of that AIO! I”d like to know if I blew it by getting all scared of the extra zippy spin!
To go faster, swap to rate mode, and your batteries are always undercharged. If you want to really whoop race, get webleed 300 mah batteries lihv. If you feel thats TOO SLOW for you, use the 270's. Thats what the pros do
40kkv motor video when? :D Jokes aside, I wonder if you hit the max current the ESCs could handle, and they slumped? (Just rewatched some parts: The meteor was at 12amps most of the time. The mob6 hit 12 amps only when you blipped the throttle. interesting.)
Ineed help I just got the jumper t light v2 and I need help flashing it I open the configurator and set the release as 3.3.2 device category should be jumper 2.4GHz and the device should have 2400 tx but the only options are stuff that says 2.4GHz please I need help I might quit I don't want to I want to fly whoops
the 32500kv motors was too much powertrain for your frame and d gains. You can see it oscillating just hovering and I'm sure you could hear it. They worked on the mob6 hdz because you have another board on there to stiffen the frame, plus extra weight. Just turn the master multiplier down or get a stiffer frame.
Why aren’t you losing your HD video link on the Mob6 when the voltage was sagging to 3-3.1? I have the Vision40 with the 450mah WeBleed batteries and it’s almost unflyable when the battery drops below 3.5v because a throttle pump or spin/flip/roll will cause the voltage to sag below the 3.1v minimum for the VTX and I lose video. It’s done this since it (and the batteries) was brand new.
@@JoshuaBardwell Yes, Walksnail vTX. Well that is a much more simple explanation than I expected. I didn't realize minimum voltage varied between vTX, but then again why would it be the same, either? :) Thanks so much for your response.
Im doing 0702 28,000kV i think on a 65 pro not sure analog or HDzero yet. But my walksnail 1S i did 1002 22,000kV cause on motor charts it made more power same efficiency. And the quad already wasnt light 🤣 🤣 🤣
Doubling the Kv with the same props and battery means the current draw will increase by the square of the speed increase, means for sure your ESCs nor your battery will not be able to handle that. 3.5V-0.7V from transistor loss in your ESC, the coils see around 2.8V. at 20 000Kv it means 56krpm minus props los 30% equal 39krpm, wich is already very questionable. A 32 000kv would mean 62 000 rpm, you can dream. Without any test I can already says these kv numbers are BS, or anyway your props, ESC and batteries will never handle that.
4:00 You're powering the goggles off 6S? That's rather risky... Also, your VTX is saying it's about to melt itself, yet you're continuing to film your bit?
I believe the HDZero goggles are fine to use on 6S. I believe that's HDZero's official position. It hasn't been a problem for me. The vTX is overheating because I'm not flying. As soon as I start flying, the airflow cools it down. It won't damage itself from overheating. It will just turn off if it gets too hot. In short, I think you're over-reacting.
@@JoshuaBardwell The goggles' current manual says "Power Input (2S~5S)" on the third page. So... you're wrong, and I'm not over-reacting. They originally thought it could do 6S, and marketed it as such, but they've since found that it can't quite do it and sometimes blows the goggles, hence they've updated the manual. I obviously know the VTX is only overheating 'cause you're not flying, but letting it get that hot for any reason is not good. If you want to do that bit to the camera for artistic effect or just 'cause you can't be bothered to go find a normal camera, then you should really either do it fast enough that the VTX doesn't heat up too far, or put a fan on the thing. But I guess you don't care if the VTX does melt itself, because manufacturers send so much stuff stuff to you for free that you probably have another just lying around you could replace it with. In short, no I'm not over-reacting. You're taking bad risks with your equipment.
The vTX will absolutely not be damaged by overheating. It will reach about 90-100 degrees C and then shut itself down to avoid damage. If the vTX was going damage itself by being left powered on, that would be a serious design flaw. Regarding the goggle voltage, I just messaged Ryan Quellett and asked him, and he said, "It is rated for 6S but not 6S HV. A fuse will blow if it's over-volted." So that's as final an answer as you're going to get. The manual is out of date. When the goggles were first released, they were rated for 5S, but later the recommendation was revised, just like I said. EDIT: imgur link of Ryan's reply, for proof. imgur.com/a/dj9u2iQ
@@JoshuaBardwell Well, that would be yet another flip-flop from them on this topic... Pretty sure the goggles were originally advertised as 6S capable, then a few people blew the fuse just from the voltage spikes on plug-in on normal 6S (not HV 6S). Then HDZ said to only use up to 5S. Then I heard some say 6S is ok as long as you're really careful about having the switch in the off position when you connect the battery etc, but mostly the manual etc still recommended against using 6S. Also, is Ryan Quellet even an HDZero employee? I was under the impression he was a beta tester?
I don't know what Ryan's official position is, but he has regularly made public statements on behalf of Carl / HDzero, so I consider him authoritative.
Tiny Whoop has 36000 and there's 40000 on the way...lol. I think they're kinda dumb, personally. I have 30k 702s and run a throttle cap or I get 90 second flights and rarely use all the throttle. 😅
I run 27000 on most of my 65's for racing and freestyle in larger spaces, and that seems to be the sweet spot for me. ive tried limiting them t0 23k and they just don't feel the same as 23k motors. I have a very small apartment, and i prefer the 23k when im in a very confined space. Love seeing more whoop content from you, and wouldenjoy seeing you go down the rabbithole. Theres A LOT that goes into a high spec whoop that performs well. Thanks @JoshuaBardwell
What is all that shit on your goggles? So many andtennas and eyes. My integra goggles only have two antenna and they’re pretty and the video quality look better!
The latency of the DJI system is too high for racing, and the weight of the DJI video transmitter is too much for micro quads. That's the price of the superior video quality. There are a few dedicated DJI pilots who use DJI to race, but the vast majority of racers prefer either analog or HDZero video systems -- the ones supported by the HDZero goggles I'm using. The reason my goggles have multiple antennas is that they work with both HDZero and analog video systems. The DJI goggles work only with the DJI system.
I can not say exactly. I had exactly the same problem with one of my quads. Whenever the motors suddenly had to change speed, or when turning quickly or intercepting the quad from a height of 4m, the quad would sag. After about 30-50 packs I was able to notice that 1 motor was really slightly harder to turn by hand. So it's really slightly worse than the other engines. I replaced the engine and it's been gone ever since.
You can NEVER go too fast!!! Love the speed. 🔥🔥🔥🦄🦄🦄
- Hello motor vendor. I am going into racing and I need your strongest motors.
- My motors are too strong for you Joshua...
lol oh man
Lmao.
we all get old man!
My motors would kill a cinelifter, let alone a tinywhoop!
YOU NEED THE GEMFAN BIBLADES WITH THESE MOTORS!
That all depends if you are freestyleing you want bi blade props but raceing you want tri blades
@@IsaacSchultz-lz8jctriblades on these motors are just too much load. it'll fry the escs soon. also theres something about the rotating mass or extra thrust or whatever. these super high rpm motors don't fly great on tri blades, as seen in the video.
Yeah 0702s can sometimes handle Tri blades that are 31mm. However he has 35mm props which is probably why it was freaking out on high throttle
@killerwhale with the 35mm props you want 0802 for it but those 36000kv 0702 can definitely handle 31mm triblades any of the new aio boards can handle up to 20amp constant
True
using the quad cam is an excellent touch and I love it
These motors are amazing. Plenty of torque to pull out of maneuvers. Great throttle resolution. No matter where you point it, it goes. I can't wait till they release the 40,000kv ones!!!
12:16 Might make this my turtle mode switch sound.
Troll face is now Bardwell Face?! xD
haha, that was funny^^
The freak outs are due to the actuator saturation. The gemfan biblades is the right load for that performance
One of your best videos! You may have made more tech·ni·cal·ly difficult videos to date, but this one just had perfect timing and a well placed gag that took it to the top! Thanks for what you do!
I switched to higher kv motors and had similer weird wobbles at full throttle. Turned out my props were spinning on thr shafts cause rhey were too loose. LOL!
You should reduce prop pitch when you use higher KV Motors. On a tight course there is no high speed, so props with less pitch are going to bite better.
The question we should be asking is, why is bardwell still flying angle mode inside?
Nice experiment. You'll find increasing the camera angle has a perhaps bigger impact on speed than this motor swap
Awesome flying, Joshua!!! 😃
Thanks a bunch for the testing and comparison!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Damn they really spiced up those motors, i thought my NBD plaid motors was 🔥 when i got them almost 2 years ago, but i also run a 75 cuz i like to fly outside, bout to convert it to a fractal soon, i blew my aio last summer and never got around to fixing it, i keep getting different parts for it, lol, but I'm running a betafpv aio
Came to learn something today. And learned a musical interlude was what I needed. 😂
Hey jb! I almost have the same issue with my mobula6. I did not change anything. The motors make the same noise like yours did. Also the quad flew away like yours.
I tried to find an answer in your discord , but nobody seem to have an idea 😢 ordered the mob6 and can’t fly it. rip
Swapping to motors both lighter and higher KV would require changing filters, first and foremost. I had a similar issue with motor swapping Mobula6, I went from 19000KV 0802 to 28000KV 0702, and flight performance was crap. Jittery and noisy. Tuning the filters by following Ciotti FPV recommendations, and applying Quad66 presets I was able to smooth things out. Turns out, 28000KV 0702 are not trash, and are, if fact, based. I got about 30 seconds more flight time and much more power after all of the tweaks.
Could you throw some links on this guides please?
Hi Josh, Great video and review of Webleed screamer motors. I have been using [for my mobula 6 22,000kv. I just need to try these 32,500kv and see what happens. Thanks again for the video and information.
@JoshuaBardwell instead of motor limiting at 10:45 did you consider adjusting midpoint and using throttle expo? @ciottifpv recent had a live that went through it.
you also should try 75 mm whoop with 25000 kv
Hey Joshua, why aren't you using v-bat sag compensation? I'm sure there's a reason...
Love the whoop content keep it coming :)
I really wish it was possible to make a truly indoor-capable tinywhoop with a Runcam Wasp or something. I'm so heavily invested in DJI digital that I don't want to switch over for just one quad but indoor tinywhoop flying looks like so much fun and a great way to spend the winters in my area when it's too cold to fly outside
I personally noticed a decent difference in your flight characteristics you were tighter to the inside lines for sure and just sharper all together .I personally find sitting helps I feel like it takes brain power to stand and balance not much but I feel like I just free that up when sitting down especially with whoops
We have found that anything over 22,000 kv should be direct soldered to the ESC to reduce the sag you are seeing in those tight turns.
The Happymodel Mob6 is direct soldered.
I NEED that lap timer voice to use on my radio! Anyone know where I can find it or something similar?
I freestyle, but on higher kv motors, give bi blades a try, im my experience i get better throttle respinse with a little trade iff for sliperry cornering. In a few packs you learn the throttle and corner the same. I dont race seriously, but mostly freestyle.
Probably be worth hand finishing the prop blades, and dynamically balancing the lightest props you can get. At those rpm, destructive vibrations would be bad. Try to avoide supersonic tip speeds too!😊
Betafpv just released a new 'lava' battary with 75c - maybe higher 'c-rate' will help?
Definitely! Because of that reason I used GNB / Tattu high C rated 1S packs. And connectorwise BT 2.0 or similar.
Be nice if they made the 95c in 300mah
@@divingfalconfpv4602 webleed, tattu and others make them. With BT 2.0. Its even more important to have heigh c with that lower capacity. Makes more of a change.
@@JackalFPV well I use gnb27 & A30.. so I got change battery plug
@@divingfalconfpv4602 Use BT 2.0 pigtail, it fits A30 and BT 2.0. I switched years ago to BT 2.0 but there were no packs other than BetaFPV to buy. That now all changed.
Bardwell...
Hope your hitting those high kv's with some throttle expo.... game changing
These high KV motors seem to be "crazy high power upgrade" right now. I think that will soon change and everyone goes high kv like this and it will be the norm. Sadly it wasnt when i began flying and i was having so much problems when starting out with a meteor65pro... evrything got sooo much easier with higher kv motors
You need some bi-blades I think, iirc tri-blades produce more torque/lift at lower rpms and bi-blades have less mass which reduces strain on high kv motors.
I remember on a 5inch i had wobbles.. i lowered the D something i forgot wat it was wat it was in the rates section i think.. from memory it was 1600 stock.. lowered to about 1300 wobbles disappeared at full punch. I always thought it was the frame but nah
What is Joshua's live stream schedule, I thought I saw it somewhere but maybe I was dreaming.
No worries about what those jacked up kvs might do to an ESC? Tiny Whoop has a full on warning about using that high of a kv motor on their sales site. That warning gave me the cold feets and I’m going to be trying out some 27k kv motors in the near future since I got scared off from the 32.5k.
I like to live dangerously.
@@JoshuaBardwell if you keep flying those motors as hard as you were, please keep us posted about the lifespan of that AIO! I”d like to know if I blew it by getting all scared of the extra zippy spin!
To go faster, swap to rate mode, and your batteries are always undercharged. If you want to really whoop race, get webleed 300 mah batteries lihv. If you feel thats TOO SLOW for you, use the 270's. Thats what the pros do
Do those motors still run on standard lipo batteries 450/550 3.7v 1800mA, also the meteor is that analog and ELRS? Great vid dude 🤙🏼
Singing is a 10/10
40kkv motor video when? :D Jokes aside, I wonder if you hit the max current the ESCs could handle, and they slumped? (Just rewatched some parts: The meteor was at 12amps most of the time. The mob6 hit 12 amps only when you blipped the throttle. interesting.)
The esc rating is per motor so a 5 amp board can handle 20 amp constant and a 24 amp burst total
5:21 battery just dies
I got it as well. Im just gonna put expresslrs module on it. And go with whoops that jave that? Ill keep my qx7 for my d8
You're gonna try and show up to a race with these - I feel the disturbance in the force.... LOL
Does the expressLRS v2 nano module work with x-lite pro? Is the latency as good as the v1?
Ineed help
I just got the jumper t light v2 and I need help flashing it I open the configurator and set the release as 3.3.2 device category should be jumper 2.4GHz and the device should have 2400 tx but the only options are stuff that says 2.4GHz please I need help I might quit I don't want to I want to fly whoops
What camera did you use to record the talking shot in the woods at 5:31? I really like the lens flares
FAA will look at this and outlaw this size now, Roll on the Nano Quads by WeDead.
I gonna use these on my 45 mm FPV tiny whoop with 21 mm props. 😁
He's testing 40,000kV now hahahaha
Nice house
Is that the NuclearHazzard Atom lap timer?
Nvm, saw a comment further down 👍🏽
PIDs! It the most blackbox aspect about quads. and I bet would fix your trilling. If you can't do it, then how is anyone else expected to?
I get 5 min on diamond Aio screamers and gemfan tri blade
The 40000kv Ciotti has been running have to be Ludacris 🔥
the 32500kv motors was too much powertrain for your frame and d gains. You can see it oscillating just hovering and I'm sure you could hear it. They worked on the mob6 hdz because you have another board on there to stiffen the frame, plus extra weight. Just turn the master multiplier down or get a stiffer frame.
I 100% tried pid tuning the Meteor, including changing D gain, master multiplier, and filters.
Good stuff! Is it possible to make a 1 channel lap counter?
Lol on the Family Guy style interlude!
Maybe play with adding more camera angle. 30-35-40 cheers great job.
mr ciotty was a good info beacon?
Funny I sing/tralallalaaa that song all the time....😂
What about the 702 27000kv motors 533 suggests
I beleive in you bro......push it !!!...9.5 lap.....lol
Holy shit I’m not the only one who randomly sings the troll song 🤣🤣🤣
Whatt says JB about the Redbull fastest Droe? I know a video from you JB 3 Years ago with almost 350 Km/H
whats the perfect tinywhoop size for gnb 1s 500mah lipos? Got a lot of them laying around:)
75mm. Meteor 75
Can you do a review on "XILO Stax V2 Combo - F4 FC + F4 45A BLHeli_32 3-6S 4-in-1 ESC" next please
Now this was a good video.
I just fly meteor75 stock, break it, then get a new one. Amazon shouldn’t offer me a replacement plan.😂
PROPS! 2 blade low pitch
Your center speaker is much too high JB :)
@bardwell change your rates, not your motors. See what happens... 🔥🔥🔥
Think linear -----------
lol musical interlude
Why does it say 6S in the top left?
He is using a 6S battery to power his HDZ goggles
Goggle battery
Oh there nice!
Why aren’t you losing your HD video link on the Mob6 when the voltage was sagging to 3-3.1? I have the Vision40 with the 450mah WeBleed batteries and it’s almost unflyable when the battery drops below 3.5v because a throttle pump or spin/flip/roll will cause the voltage to sag below the 3.1v minimum for the VTX and I lose video. It’s done this since it (and the batteries) was brand new.
You're using Walksnail vTX right? I'm using HDZero. Looks like HDZero can tolerate lower voltage.
Walksnail drops at 3.06v
HDZero drops at 2.78v
@@divingfalconfpv4602TIL
@@JoshuaBardwell Yes, Walksnail vTX. Well that is a much more simple explanation than I expected. I didn't realize minimum voltage varied between vTX, but then again why would it be the same, either? :) Thanks so much for your response.
@@divingfalconfpv4602 Thank you so much!
You need a lighter tinywhoop, the new mob6 would be perfect.
Silly Joshua, we are doing 40,000kv over on Ciotti’s stream 😂
Im doing 0702 28,000kV i think on a 65 pro not sure analog or HDzero yet.
But my walksnail 1S i did 1002 22,000kV cause on motor charts it made more power same efficiency. And the quad already wasnt light 🤣 🤣 🤣
The Filters and PIDs of the Meteor65 are just too aggressive for the new motors. Just scale them down accordingly.
I definitely tried that before giving up, I just didn't put 2 hrs of failing in the video since that wasn't really the point.
@@JoshuaBardwellDamn... Then I wonder if the motors generate too much thrust for the frame to handle. Maybe it flexes a bit too much.
Doubling the Kv with the same props and battery means the current draw will increase by the square of the speed increase, means for sure your ESCs nor your battery will not be able to handle that. 3.5V-0.7V from transistor loss in your ESC, the coils see around 2.8V. at 20 000Kv it means 56krpm minus props los 30% equal 39krpm, wich is already very questionable. A 32 000kv would mean 62 000 rpm, you can dream. Without any test I can already says these kv numbers are BS, or anyway your props, ESC and batteries will never handle that.
What is calling out your lap times?
Rotorhazard lap timer.
@@JoshuaBardwell THANK YOU!
32,500 0702 is too much KV for the 35mm tri-blade. I like 0703 for the 35mm tri blades
I like the precision and price of the Newbeedrone 16420 kv 0703
But the plugs only fit the Newbeedrone boards
Yes definitely shorter flight time with the higher kv
Прикольно, Хиль популярный товарищ
Hey Bardwell, you got a bad rf board on your goggles
4:00 You're powering the goggles off 6S? That's rather risky...
Also, your VTX is saying it's about to melt itself, yet you're continuing to film your bit?
I believe the HDZero goggles are fine to use on 6S. I believe that's HDZero's official position. It hasn't been a problem for me.
The vTX is overheating because I'm not flying. As soon as I start flying, the airflow cools it down. It won't damage itself from overheating. It will just turn off if it gets too hot.
In short, I think you're over-reacting.
@@JoshuaBardwell The goggles' current manual says "Power Input (2S~5S)" on the third page. So... you're wrong, and I'm not over-reacting. They originally thought it could do 6S, and marketed it as such, but they've since found that it can't quite do it and sometimes blows the goggles, hence they've updated the manual.
I obviously know the VTX is only overheating 'cause you're not flying, but letting it get that hot for any reason is not good. If you want to do that bit to the camera for artistic effect or just 'cause you can't be bothered to go find a normal camera, then you should really either do it fast enough that the VTX doesn't heat up too far, or put a fan on the thing.
But I guess you don't care if the VTX does melt itself, because manufacturers send so much stuff stuff to you for free that you probably have another just lying around you could replace it with.
In short, no I'm not over-reacting. You're taking bad risks with your equipment.
The vTX will absolutely not be damaged by overheating. It will reach about 90-100 degrees C and then shut itself down to avoid damage. If the vTX was going damage itself by being left powered on, that would be a serious design flaw.
Regarding the goggle voltage, I just messaged Ryan Quellett and asked him, and he said, "It is rated for 6S but not 6S HV. A fuse will blow if it's over-volted." So that's as final an answer as you're going to get. The manual is out of date. When the goggles were first released, they were rated for 5S, but later the recommendation was revised, just like I said.
EDIT: imgur link of Ryan's reply, for proof.
imgur.com/a/dj9u2iQ
@@JoshuaBardwell Well, that would be yet another flip-flop from them on this topic...
Pretty sure the goggles were originally advertised as 6S capable, then a few people blew the fuse just from the voltage spikes on plug-in on normal 6S (not HV 6S). Then HDZ said to only use up to 5S. Then I heard some say 6S is ok as long as you're really careful about having the switch in the off position when you connect the battery etc, but mostly the manual etc still recommended against using 6S.
Also, is Ryan Quellet even an HDZero employee? I was under the impression he was a beta tester?
I don't know what Ryan's official position is, but he has regularly made public statements on behalf of Carl / HDzero, so I consider him authoritative.
I just want that mobula6 to come with the walksnail nano
5:34 you just broke the battery
Tiny Whoop has 36000 and there's 40000 on the way...lol.
I think they're kinda dumb, personally. I have 30k 702s and run a throttle cap or I get 90 second flights and rarely use all the throttle. 😅
Keep in mind that even with a throttle cap, the higher kv motors can give the PID loop more authority which makes the quad fly better.
I run 27000 on most of my 65's for racing and freestyle in larger spaces, and that seems to be the sweet spot for me. ive tried limiting them t0 23k and they just don't feel the same as 23k motors. I have a very small apartment, and i prefer the 23k when im in a very confined space. Love seeing more whoop content from you, and wouldenjoy seeing you go down the rabbithole. Theres A LOT that goes into a high spec whoop that performs well. Thanks @JoshuaBardwell
I can get 3 minutes easy on 0702 30,000kv, flying outside using lots of throttle. The weight of the quad will affect the runtime more than anything.
Turn air mode off
Tinywhoop has 1000000kv motors
I wish they were real
Bro for real, turn anti gravity off with the whoops and thank me later ;)
Lol this hobby needs more funny shit like 12:18
Too much vibration probably
@12:20 what in the actual fuck
5:17 YOUR BATTERY!!! Nooooooooooooolkk fnfnfndbbfiwxbkorkrnrbfbb 💀🥀
Why do you look like Vsauce?
why you bashing your $200 patrons. send them to me! I don't have a patreon but i definitely could use a couple $200 a month.
If you cant handle the speed, some racer definitely can.
What is all that shit on your goggles? So many andtennas and eyes. My integra goggles only have two antenna and they’re pretty and the video quality look better!
The latency of the DJI system is too high for racing, and the weight of the DJI video transmitter is too much for micro quads. That's the price of the superior video quality. There are a few dedicated DJI pilots who use DJI to race, but the vast majority of racers prefer either analog or HDZero video systems -- the ones supported by the HDZero goggles I'm using.
The reason my goggles have multiple antennas is that they work with both HDZero and analog video systems. The DJI goggles work only with the DJI system.
Bad Motor 100%
Then why did it dip left and right?
I can not say exactly. I had exactly the same problem with one of my quads. Whenever the motors suddenly had to change speed, or when turning quickly or intercepting the quad from a height of 4m, the quad would sag. After about 30-50 packs I was able to notice that 1 motor was really slightly harder to turn by hand. So it's really slightly worse than the other engines. I replaced the engine and it's been gone ever since.