Thanks @JoshuaBardwell for taking the time to review the Squirrel (and for braking it - fixing it - and reviewing it again)! We are glad you enjoyed flying it and would like to take to take the opportunity to clarify a couple of things: torx: the four arm screws need a lot of torque and a 1.5hex will strip after the second rebuild motors: those are indeed tailor-made t-motor pacer 1604 (custom winding, modified shaft and engraving) motor testing with props on: you do it - we do it - everybody after his 3rd build does it -- but please don't show it to the public. lipo pads: those are custom laser-cut from blank sheets of the same material ummagrip uses, so give them a little lick (with a wet sponge off course) once the battery starts to slide ;-) arms: those are 4mm - it still doesn't make it a bando-basher but it can take quite a beating bind & fly builds: we fly and custom tune every single build so those get as much love as the one you flew (plus: a M10 GPS is now included). We strongly believe that every pilot deserves an excellent flying quad and take some pride in providing them. May the thrust be with you Volker
I personally wish torx was the standard in FPV. The fasteners last much longer than hex fasteners. 3D printed fasteners makes the difference between torx and hex even more pronounced. The soft plastic get pushed out of the way when using hex fasteners a 3D printed torx fastener is surprisingly durable since the tool's pressure is even distributed.
I love that you're covering some weird frames. This is the stuff that keeps the hobby super interesting to me. I've actually talked to the owner briefly, and I might actually build one myself now. Thanks JB. 🤙🏻🔥
This was great it reminded me of 2019 pre covid when it seemed like every week there was a new frame or quad that you were ripping around in your yard, I know you can do a trippy spin you were doing it for a second. Cool locking frame but for durability I'm sticking with the Tilney Trainer HD with the 03 air unit.
I always liked the A frame arms, but I think they need a third spar going from the end of the arm to the main body in a slight down angle. That 3rd demention would really strengthen the arm.
Nice little quad. Arced arms aren't such a great idea, though, because the carbon fibers that provide tensile strength are shorter than with straight arms.
Those motors sure do appear to be re-labeled T-Motor Pacer 1604's. There is nothing wrong with that; they are great little motors. I run them on a 3.5" Quadmula 6s and they fly amazingly well. I do, however, despise the T-Mount because props are a pain to change, and I always seem to strip them out. Other than that they are good. For my second Quadmula 3.5" build I actually went with the 1084's just because I could get them with a prop nut!
@@doccock100 Yes. That's basically how I do it now. I bought an M2 socket head kit off of Amazon and it has mostly solved the issue. I got tired of buying new motors just to replace the bell. I have a box with 5 or 6 brand new stators with stripped bells, lol! They're still a pain in the butt to swap out props but they are very good motors!
The reason it's split like that is because there's split the thickness of the arm 2 1/2 as thick buy stepping one over the other it should be just buttered up together
Quadmula frames also run countersunk M2 screws in the frame. When I was changing them over to titanium it was way easier to get Torx versions rather than hex so maybe that's why? (assuming they were titanium for weight saving?)
@@RubberQuads interesting, I haven't had any titanium screws break on my builds. But really impressive to get the weight down so low with an O3... kinda wish I known about these earlier!
The 03 version here I see is 682$ US. Still absolutely nuts in cost. I'd consider this quad if it were more in line with other similar sized / style 03 quads.
@@Nunyali5lxist 599€ and when you think of that is not Build in China and every Quad get flown and tuned its a good price. They also come now with an M10 GPS for the Same price
Fantastic flying and review, Joshua! 😃 The last time I remember you having this amount of fun flying something was with the 90fps HDZero camera! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Any time you mill the arms to overlap is the weak point, on my 5" Raptor after many crashes,the arm splits down the middle of the 5mm thick arms. Then another thousand flights it finally breaks in two. I solved this on my design by not interlocking the arms, but having them but up against each other, not one broken arm after 10400 flights that year.
Great video Bardwell and nice backflip thru gap! I want to ask what is the white thingy majig on your goggles 2?! Is it possibly an adapter for other camera systems???
Bro as soon as he claimed durable harder to destroy I was like Umm thats literally just small poorly balanced frame not a toothpick Jinx You Splooded ! On a funnier note --> @10:30 The Bard manically chuckles at throttle full up while testing, props on, in house, hahahah ! CLASSIC ! . Oh Shit air born four pronged juicer coming at ya face ha ha ha ! Love it Real talk though be careful people ..
its a modernization/adaptation of a classic Kabab toothpick whipped up to accommodate you digital weirdos .. Just my 2 cents. Still Love my overpowered Tooth Pics ! 83 grams w/o battery hahah ! feels like a 6"
ive never flown a 5 inch i got lucky and found the crux 35 and im on my 3rd one now lol. I fried the vtx on one does that make it a good candidate for the air unit? ;)
I put one in mine but had to drop it to 3". Used a shaved down tpu nose of a reckon 5, flipped the top frame front to back and converted to top mount. Used double sided tape to secure the air unit. Wish I'd have maintained 3.5" but I still love how it flys.
The drivetrain generates about 600g per corner, fresh arms break at over 15kg on the weakest axis (vertical bend). It's not a bando-basher but please don't be too hard on us.
The geometry wouldn't work out but we are currently considering to make a test-batch of 6mm bando-arms with a thinner pressure plate. This would probably require the removal of the GPS to stay under 250g.
I killed my speedybee esc even though i used a smoke stopper.. 2 soldering blobs touched bc of a little wire out of my motor wire and the soldering "exploded".. after that i soldered again and my fc dont get powered from my esc.. what could i do?
This is a complete waste of time, the quad is $680!!!!!!! And those are re branded beta motors for sure, or $530 as a kit , that’s around $80-100 for the frame that broke immediately lol. I wish these companies wouldn’t try to rape us all the time and they would probably sell a lot more products if they were realistic. GEP rc is the way to go, These are the old school bardwell videos we love thiugh- out flying- testing quads- please more!!!!!!
I love the GTSv3 (1506) for its insane amount of torque and top-end but it was just too heavy to get the build under 250g. RCinPower was not willing to work with us to put it on a diet 😞
Your kit + the o3 air unit should come tomorrow, im learning to solder, have it set to 650, but cant manage to tin thw wires, the tip just doesnt heat them enough, any tips?
@@Todd_G_FPV thanks for the reply, super hot like 900? and also I think I need a bigger tip, I got the stock tip on the hakko 888dx and its pretty small for a 12 gague, should have bigger ones arriving soon!
I'm glad that you acknowledge that Torx is a better screw system for small fasteners compared to allan or hex. Perplexity AI : While Allen wrenches have some advantages like the availability of ball-end drivers for angled access, Torx generally offers superior performance in terms of torque capacity, tool longevity, and resistance to stripping. This is why many industries have been increasingly adopting Torx fasteners for critical applications.
It's a bit over a 100 bucks (DJI won't give any reseller a proper margin) but we fly and individually tune every build we send out. There also is a build kit or just the frame available.
@@volkergoe I understand that it is a unique frame. The PCB of the USB-C relocation probably adds some included costs and is necessary for an AIO. If a v2 comes out with thicker arm mounts, I would love to check this frame out. Technically, it looks like you could update the frame with thicker arms without changing a lot other than the center of gravity and the weight. Although it might add some included stress elsewhere.
I mean this is not Iflight who make thousands of mass produced Nazgûl’s lol. If you want a niche product like that ur gonna pay for it. If you don’t want to learn to build or pay a premium for a niche product then just buy a Nazgûl like every other Tom and Jerry 🤷♂️😅
THAT IS SO SMART step 1: SELL A random PRODUCT THAT IS FAMOUS (for a cent under the competition and free shipping) preferably something that people are likely to buy again and again. step 2: ADD a free SAMPLE of the CHEAP competitor product (that you make yourself or have a great margin on) step 3: Brand name customers will try the freeby and if it's decent they will SWITCH and buy from you alone (nobody else has the 'new' branded one since you just invented the brand) step 5: Profit.
no hard feelings from us. We wouldnt by this as build&tuned ourself because we are awesome at building and tuning quads. It takes us a bit over an hour to build a Squirrel and another half an hour to get the tune perfect. For a beginner it would probably take 3 hours to get a rig like that in the air on betaflight defaults and another year to get it tuned ;-)
@@RubberQuads Glad no hard feelings. Just stating some facts in this day and age with the way the economy is. One could instead purchase a BabyHawk O3 for $200 less and probably get the same quality performance. Plus the BH gets insane battery life. I haven't flown your quad but it seems to be similar to that bird. The BabyHawk 2/O3 is a darn good flyer and much easier to maintain as well.
Cover the o3 discus It's 10X better if you're willing to build it 200grams auw with a 650 4s, T700 4mm carbon Motor and frame protection and no props in view Half the price also honestly I can't believe your posting something like this, the arms look as crappy as the crux35 and they are asking 100$ for it. Those arms on that thing is trash and the o3 becomes a smash target. Sorry to the designer it's great too try different things, I applaud you for that. I just think it is over priced and you need to beef up the arms. I'm more triggered that Josh doesn't wanna share my frame when it out performs things like this. 50 grams lighter with no props in view plus 3.5 vs 3 there really isn't a comparison.
Lol Toronto FPV makes it but Josh won't feature it cause he doesn't like him for his wreckless behavior. The O3 Discus is sick though just search for it and you will see @@scooteracers
Where do you get the 100$ from? It's 63 euro including taxes, thats less than an AOS 3.5 for example. Sure super simple racing frames can be cheaper and lighter but thats a different thing.
There is ZERO reason this drone, even with the o3 should cost more than $500. This an average level drone at an almost scam level price. What a ripoff.
You can always get a frame-kit. We build our quads in Europe and fly every single one to verify the hardware and finalize the tune (base tune is in the Betaflight presets).
@@g3rm422 they don't. You are more than welcome to build, set it up and tune it yourself. We even put the PID- and filter settings in the official betaflight presets to make it easier.
That's just not at all true. I mean, you can see if you watched the video that I crashed it multiple times and it was fine. How much flex do you think carbon fiber has?
Thanks @JoshuaBardwell for taking the time to review the Squirrel (and for braking it - fixing it - and reviewing it again)!
We are glad you enjoyed flying it and would like to take to take the opportunity to clarify a couple of things:
torx: the four arm screws need a lot of torque and a 1.5hex will strip after the second rebuild
motors: those are indeed tailor-made t-motor pacer 1604 (custom winding, modified shaft and engraving)
motor testing with props on: you do it - we do it - everybody after his 3rd build does it -- but please don't show it to the public.
lipo pads: those are custom laser-cut from blank sheets of the same material ummagrip uses, so give them a little lick (with a wet sponge off course) once the battery starts to slide ;-)
arms: those are 4mm - it still doesn't make it a bando-basher but it can take quite a beating
bind & fly builds: we fly and custom tune every single build so those get as much love as the one you flew (plus: a M10 GPS is now included). We strongly believe that every pilot deserves an excellent flying quad and take some pride in providing them.
May the thrust be with you
Volker
I personally wish torx was the standard in FPV. The fasteners last much longer than hex fasteners.
3D printed fasteners makes the difference between torx and hex even more pronounced. The soft plastic get pushed out of the way when using hex fasteners a 3D printed torx fastener is surprisingly durable since the tool's pressure is even distributed.
Pacer 1604’s rule.
I want see this in korea
First time I have ever heard The "F" Bomb From Bardwell. LMAO Keep up the great work!!!
I love that you're covering some weird frames. This is the stuff that keeps the hobby super interesting to me. I've actually talked to the owner briefly, and I might actually build one myself now. Thanks JB. 🤙🏻🔥
I learned how to fly drones because of your how to fly and FPV drone. I need more videos please, thank you for your dedication.
This was great it reminded me of 2019 pre covid when it seemed like every week there was a new frame or quad that you were ripping around in your yard, I know you can do a trippy spin you were doing it for a second. Cool locking frame but for durability I'm sticking with the Tilney Trainer HD with the 03 air unit.
(G)old times indeed.
You have also slammed the USB-C xD
This is an awesome sub250 ripper 👍🏻
Looks like a good little round the house ripper!
Totally awesome ❤
I have a prebuild, pretunes from the first series; it is probably the best tuned quad I have. Have not build a 5 inch since then any more.
Great detail. Thanks for the effort
3 inch is the perfect size you don’t need more power than that or speed . They are durable cheaper and just the best size for drones hands down
Torx screws are the future and that’s a good thing
Interesting frame I like someone trying something different
I always liked the A frame arms, but I think they need a third spar going from the end of the arm to the main body in a slight down angle. That 3rd demention would really strengthen the arm.
Nice little quad. Arced arms aren't such a great idea, though, because the carbon fibers that provide tensile strength are shorter than with straight arms.
We use counter sunk m1, m2, and m2.5 in the rc car industry all the time.
Those motors sure do appear to be re-labeled T-Motor Pacer 1604's. There is nothing wrong with that; they are great little motors. I run them on a 3.5" Quadmula 6s and they fly amazingly well. I do, however, despise the T-Mount because props are a pain to change, and I always seem to strip them out. Other than that they are good. For my second Quadmula 3.5" build I actually went with the 1084's just because I could get them with a prop nut!
have you tried using longer machine screws. I had the same problem before increasing the depth of the bite
@@doccock100 Yes. That's basically how I do it now. I bought an M2 socket head kit off of Amazon and it has mostly solved the issue. I got tired of buying new motors just to replace the bell. I have a box with 5 or 6 brand new stators with stripped bells, lol! They're still a pain in the butt to swap out props but they are very good motors!
JB out here docking on trees like MR Steele or 3D DanishStallion.
The reason it's split like that is because there's split the thickness of the arm 2 1/2 as thick buy stepping one over the other it should be just buttered up together
Quadmula frames also run countersunk M2 screws in the frame. When I was changing them over to titanium it was way easier to get Torx versions rather than hex so maybe that's why? (assuming they were titanium for weight saving?)
All screws are steel. We tested titanium in the past and it's just too easy to break.
@@RubberQuads interesting, I haven't had any titanium screws break on my builds. But really impressive to get the weight down so low with an O3... kinda wish I known about these earlier!
I put velcro tape on the quad & on all my batteries. In 4 years, I've almost never lost a battery or had one even move.
Where am i standing 😅. When ya put it in a tree , try putting it back in stability mode , then re arm . 😂
love the flyfish Volador VX3
Grinderino for 3.5" bashers 💪
Josh its 4 screws at the back and 2 at thze front for changing a arm :)
Looks nice, but $920 for the o3 version is nuts!
It’s 590
Where did you see 920$ ?
Nearly $1100NZD. Ouch.
The 03 version here I see is 682$ US. Still absolutely nuts in cost. I'd consider this quad if it were more in line with other similar sized / style 03 quads.
@@Nunyali5lxist 599€ and when you think of that is not Build in China and every Quad get flown and tuned its a good price. They also come now with an M10 GPS for the Same price
“Is it not 1.5mm, the FU*K !?”😂
Fantastic flying and review, Joshua! 😃
The last time I remember you having this amount of fun flying something was with the 90fps HDZero camera!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Any time you mill the arms to overlap is the weak point, on my 5" Raptor after many crashes,the arm splits down the middle of the 5mm thick arms. Then another thousand flights it finally breaks in two. I solved this on my design by not interlocking the arms, but having them but up against each other, not one broken arm after 10400 flights that year.
Great video Bardwell and nice backflip thru gap! I want to ask what is the white thingy majig on your goggles 2?! Is it possibly an adapter for other camera systems???
I went from a modified crux 35 to a grinderino and I love fly my 3.5in around I wouldn't go backwards.
You should check out Albert Kim's Colibri 3" frame if you like weird frames.
I hope we see more "plus" frames. I still rip around my 3" AirbladeUav Eclair "plus".
Bro as soon as he claimed durable harder to destroy I was like Umm thats literally just small poorly balanced frame not a toothpick Jinx You Splooded !
On a funnier note --> @10:30
The Bard manically chuckles at throttle full up while testing, props on, in house, hahahah ! CLASSIC ! . Oh Shit air born four pronged juicer coming at ya face ha ha ha ! Love it
Real talk though be careful people ..
Hi I have spectrum radio ix 14 I’m trying to set up Nazgûl drone can you help me with that. Paul ty
Just built your kit!
I love flying 3 inch!!? Mine didn't break in the 4 years i use it
Bardwell swearing! Wow that’s a first for me
haha it aint the first for most of us though
Juan been real quiet since he saw that shirt 😂😂
That Tshirt... 😂
They were the first one that has the tubular frame
hello!friend
how about putting this frame upside down and installing 4 inch propellers?
RIP USB Port lol
6:58 there is a spider on his right shoulder
Why do they solder the cords instead of using connectors?
wow, an orange spider hehehe
merci frame fabuleuse quel vol
Your torx discovery, 😂😅 I'm in the automotive industry, car makers can't make up their mind either WTF
its a modernization/adaptation of a classic Kabab toothpick whipped up to accommodate you digital weirdos .. Just my 2 cents. Still Love my overpowered Tooth Pics !
83 grams w/o battery hahah ! feels like a 6"
ive never flown a 5 inch i got lucky and found the crux 35 and im on my 3rd one now lol. I fried the vtx on one does that make it a good candidate for the air unit? ;)
I put one in mine but had to drop it to 3". Used a shaved down tpu nose of a reckon 5, flipped the top frame front to back and converted to top mount. Used double sided tape to secure the air unit. Wish I'd have maintained 3.5" but I still love how it flys.
Wish I could learn to get those crisp stops and turns in the simulator. Seems to drift when I try to line up and go through a gap.
Nice
18:40 the USB port also looks bent.
Is it easy to replace that USB extender board?
2 screws, 4 solder joints
Baby hawk HD service nightmares revisited.
Arm broke when you ripped it out of the tree with turtle mode imo lol
The drivetrain generates about 600g per corner, fresh arms break at over 15kg on the weakest axis (vertical bend). It's not a bando-basher but please don't be too hard on us.
If you double the arms using two kits do you get over 250?
The geometry wouldn't work out but we are currently considering to make a test-batch of 6mm bando-arms with a thinner pressure plate. This would probably require the removal of the GPS to stay under 250g.
I killed my speedybee esc even though i used a smoke stopper.. 2 soldering blobs touched bc of a little wire out of my motor wire and the soldering "exploded".. after that i soldered again and my fc dont get powered from my esc.. what could i do?
If I’m reading it correctly, the pricing on their website is really steep. 😮
Forget about that Umma grip trash. Should put that gummy Alien Tape instead.
This is a complete waste of time, the quad is $680!!!!!!! And those are re branded beta motors for sure, or $530 as a kit , that’s around $80-100 for the frame that broke immediately lol. I wish these companies wouldn’t try to rape us all the time and they would probably sell a lot more products if they were realistic. GEP rc is the way to go, These are the old school bardwell videos we love thiugh- out flying- testing quads- please more!!!!!!
The motors are made by T-motor.
light 1604s are AMAZING on sub250s. looking at you RCinpower GTS v3
Those don't exist, you probably have the 1804 in mind.
I love the GTSv3 (1506) for its insane amount of torque and top-end but it was just too heavy to get the build under 250g. RCinPower was not willing to work with us to put it on a diet 😞
USB c port extender got smashed. Do they offer replacements?
No one (except for JB) managed to smash one so far but we have a couple of them on stock and will send them to anyone (else) who manages to break one.
681$ for the hdzero... holyyyy
Your kit + the o3 air unit should come tomorrow, im learning to solder, have it set to 650, but cant manage to tin thw wires, the tip just doesnt heat them enough, any tips?
Flux them, and also melt some tin on the solder tip first
Flux on the wire, super hot tip, clean tip, and pre tin the tip
@@Todd_G_FPV thanks for the reply, super hot like 900? and also I think I need a bigger tip, I got the stock tip on the hakko 888dx and its pretty small for a 12 gague, should have bigger ones arriving soon!
@@WinWitWon that may do it, can't hurt to try a wire or 2 if u got some spares
@@Todd_G_FPV alr ty
I see the usb c took a good hit
does this come in an analog version? if so ill definitely be picking one of these up for myself
We just got some 1.6W analog VTXs from Axis flying to do a handfull of builds with them.
Haha what is that shirt? I need to know more.
Why doesn't everyone in the FPV space use Torx?
what is that white thing on the dji googles?
Head tracker.
Do the proto25
How is he getting constant 50 mbps despite moving through bushes?!! My O3 and V2 setup never does that!
5:52 that crash was in poison ivy 😬
@18:37 That FC USB-C connector looks just a teensy bit unhealthy
You think it will sbang good?
Lol it broke on maiden those arms look like twigs and it weighs almost 250g
@@30MinutePapiFitness wrote it before i watched the vid
just realised USB port gets some bitting
Only Torex screws should be allowed.
did anyone see that one of the motor weir was lose?
u mean wire nr3 at 9:20 ? where nr1 get soldered back on?
Yeah
Competing baby hawk 2 o3
Since we build and tune those in europe we cant compete with the pricing. On the plus side: the Squirrel flys way better 🙂
Almost $700 USD 😳
I'm glad that you acknowledge that Torx is a better screw system for small fasteners compared to allan or hex. Perplexity AI : While Allen wrenches have some advantages like the availability of ball-end drivers for angled access, Torx generally offers superior performance in terms of torque capacity, tool longevity, and resistance to stripping. This is why many industries have been increasingly adopting Torx fasteners for critical applications.
I totally agree, I would choose Torx if given the option for those tiny screws.
not first but early :)
J.B. doent use a pre-arm ??? Thats sketchy 😂
th-cam.com/video/MjMSVT2_2nM/w-d-xo.html
Nexa 3,5 is better
First!
From my estimation, they are charging $218 to assemble it
It's a bit over a 100 bucks (DJI won't give any reseller a proper margin) but we fly and individually tune every build we send out.
There also is a build kit or just the frame available.
Yeah insane. I’ll pass on that!
@@volkergoe I understand that it is a unique frame. The PCB of the USB-C relocation probably adds some included costs and is necessary for an AIO.
If a v2 comes out with thicker arm mounts, I would love to check this frame out.
Technically, it looks like you could update the frame with thicker arms without changing a lot other than the center of gravity and the weight. Although it might add some included stress elsewhere.
I mean this is not Iflight who make thousands of mass produced Nazgûl’s lol. If you want a niche product like that ur gonna pay for it. If you don’t want to learn to build or pay a premium for a niche product then just buy a Nazgûl like every other Tom and Jerry 🤷♂️😅
It always makes me laugh how Americans manage to pronounce squirrel in one syllable 😂
I don't like A-arms, just means the carbon has been compromised too much so its super fragile, Id bust one every day!
And i wrote that while i was watching this... 3 seconds later... snap
Yea but $$$
Yeah but ... build it yourself
Doesn't look like very good quality carbon.
THAT IS SO SMART
step 1: SELL A random PRODUCT THAT IS FAMOUS (for a cent under the competition and free shipping)
preferably something that people are likely to buy again and again.
step 2: ADD a free SAMPLE of the CHEAP competitor product (that you make yourself or have a great margin on)
step 3: Brand name customers will try the freeby and if it's decent they will SWITCH and buy from you alone (nobody else has the 'new' branded one since you just invented the brand)
step 5: Profit.
To complicated to work on no thanks.
One long ad.
We didn't expect such a positive review (especially after that arm broke on his first flight).
the arm design is no good but interesting idea
But the BNF with tune version costs almost $700 for that innovation. PASS.
no hard feelings from us. We wouldnt by this as build&tuned ourself because we are awesome at building and tuning quads. It takes us a bit over an hour to build a Squirrel and another half an hour to get the tune perfect. For a beginner it would probably take 3 hours to get a rig like that in the air on betaflight defaults and another year to get it tuned ;-)
p.s.: the baseline tune (PIDs and filters) is in the Betaflight presets if you want to build one yourself.
@@RubberQuads Glad no hard feelings. Just stating some facts in this day and age with the way the economy is. One could instead purchase a BabyHawk O3 for $200 less and probably get the same quality performance. Plus the BH gets insane battery life. I haven't flown your quad but it seems to be similar to that bird. The BabyHawk 2/O3 is a darn good flyer and much easier to maintain as well.
@@RubberQuads That's good to know. Thanks.
Cover the o3 discus It's 10X better if you're willing to build it 200grams auw with a 650 4s, T700 4mm carbon Motor and frame protection and no props in view Half the price also honestly I can't believe your posting something like this, the arms look as crappy as the crux35 and they are asking 100$ for it. Those arms on that thing is trash and the o3 becomes a smash target.
Sorry to the designer it's great too try different things, I applaud you for that. I just think it is over priced and you need to beef up the arms. I'm more triggered that Josh doesn't wanna share my frame when it out performs things like this.
50 grams lighter with no props in view plus 3.5 vs 3 there really isn't a comparison.
Who makes it?
@@scooteracers search O3 Discus and you'll see
Lol Toronto FPV makes it but Josh won't feature it cause he doesn't like him for his wreckless behavior. The O3 Discus is sick though just search for it and you will see @@scooteracers
Look up scythe 3.5 from recursionlabs. Love that frame and it's takes hits. I haven't posted videos but plan on it soon.
Where do you get the 100$ from? It's 63 euro including taxes, thats less than an AOS 3.5 for example. Sure super simple racing frames can be cheaper and lighter but thats a different thing.
There is ZERO reason this drone, even with the o3 should cost more than $500. This an average level drone at an almost scam level price. What a ripoff.
You can always get a frame-kit. We build our quads in Europe and fly every single one to verify the hardware and finalize the tune (base tune is in the Betaflight presets).
@@volkergoe How can all the parts possibly cost more than $500?
@@g3rm422 they don't. You are more than welcome to build, set it up and tune it yourself. We even put the PID- and filter settings in the official betaflight presets to make it easier.
broken arm, damaged battery........enough said, thanks but no thanks
Faa can go bother someone else smfh
Carbon fibre is conductive. First crash will fry everything in your stack. Come on Bardwell don't recommend shit
That's just not at all true. I mean, you can see if you watched the video that I crashed it multiple times and it was fine. How much flex do you think carbon fiber has?