I like it. Doesn't look like everyone else's exhaust. It had the U bend and standard silencer most of it's life, but swapping to the Penton style muffler made it more quiet, looks different than what everyone else has, and never has to be repacked.
I agree, as well as the lightweight ignition. I think it's interesting to see that a high strung kit like this can actually function pretty well in a de-tuned setup. I will likely be trying to get a hyper race exhaust and an ignition when I can. Hoping by about next spring.
Love your videos, they are very interresting to wach I learned a lot from them, I bulid 70cc keeway AC now I'm bulding similar project as yours it's 70cc keeway LC your videos ansered all my questions and gaved me power to try my self and do it all by my self so keep making videos. Peace bro👍
The phbl 25mm is made for trial bikes i had the same one and my dyno guy kept having problems with it so we changed it for a polini 24mm D slide carb and it made a world of difference. You could try a maikuni Chinese carb for cheap I’ve heard of people get good results with those!
Looking good. As many said it could be ignition timing on the top end causing the cutouts. A chamber pipe and 4.5/ 5 gram is usually where I end up. In a side note I have a Polini evolution inner rotor that would work well for you
Hi mate, you need 4 grams rollers (all the same weight! important!), one or two step harder clutch springs (like red or blue malossi), harder contrast spring (purple malossi) and a good exhaust for the cilinder like a polini evolution. Try and thank me later ;)
What mechanical water pump would you recommend for CPI Horiz. Minarelli cases. I was going to build an R/T 70 engine I have all the parts and just lost interest. I have accumulated all the parts over a few years.
Top Performance was making one. I have a Stage6 pump. My only complaint with the S6 pump is that it's a pain to put the hoses on because they're so close together. It's supposed to flow more, but I didn't really see any difference with it vs a stock pump from a DRR or Apex ATV. That's another option.
I always suggest that you monitor your engine temps with a tuned setup and use anything much above what you normally see as a danger zone. The reason is that some gauge setups will read different and not all engines are the same. That said, usually about 350F is the most you want to see for CHT. Liquid cooled doesn't usually get that high.
I think we can safely say she's a ripper! Hard to tell since my butt is not on the seat, but a bit of clutch slip maybe a bit too much. The pads looked good but the bell had some wear. Not enough force on the pads? More weight on them? I'm certainly no expert tuner. Seeing you make those runs reminds me of how big a pain in the bag it is getting it right. So many factors involved, too many maybe. And this is what i have to look forward to when i take a swing at it. And i thought tuning with a clutch and gears was fun. Btw the inserts on the weights makes good sense - to me anyway. Shipping takes time, tuning is right now while it's fresh in your mind. Has a good sound to it, a little angry. I think you got your beans worth.
I'm happy with it for what it is. I never expected it to be anything like the full-on version with all of the expensive hyper race parts... and it's not. But I also wasn't even sure if it would have enough power to get itself going with the mismatched parts so I'm pleased with it for now. I can tell you that getting the right parts will ease tuning. At least the ignition. If I had a lightweight ignition, it would likely rip right past minor tuning issues and zip off the line. I went through that with my 103. I have a smaller flywheel for it, but it provides nearly no charging. Anyway, I could swap that on and it would take off when I had tuning issues with the heavier flywheel. I'd imagine the inner rotors make like much easier with a hyper race kit.
@@49ccscoot It looked to me like you were well into the 50 mph range. Without a lot of fiddling besides finding a jet that was close. As a comparison a "sport" 70 cc cylinder i take it you have used one. Did that get you into the 50's ? A dude i know in Boston ports malossi cast iron 70cc sport cylinders into monsters for $$$. So i throw this out there. Is it the porting or the displacement or a balance of both. I think the latter, but that leaves out how a 49cc cylinder can hit low 50's with a re jet and pipe. No it can not pull as hard as a larger cylinder can, but it will get there. So displacement is torque porting is speed - it seems. It's a black art. I've read some things on porting, i just don't have that many cylinders lying around to try it. There is a peugeot cylinder that will do amazing things with some porting, water cooled too. Then there is the advance curve, i think that's where the inner rotor units make it happen. But no lights is just not a workable option. Next few years i think i see a point that i will have some time to play with all that stuff. Till then i fiddle. I would call your efforts a success thus far. And i think that's worth the cash spent. It sounds like there is more in it, jetting and maybe a pipe? Ignition box maybe. Or just run it with a good tune.
@@johnrobinson357 I think the reason that you're equating porting with speed is probably horsepower and RPM. If you've got more power, you can improve acceleration as well. If you're not doing gear changes, then higher revs (with the power to back it up) will allow you to go faster. I have used sport kits. I have gone ~60 or so with a sport kit and mild porting. Acceleration isn't there like this. I've gone 50+ on stock cylinders with a little porting and an exhaust. Again, weak acceleration in comparison. I have more fun with the acceleration than the speed.
@@49ccscoot And my reference is dirt bikes not scooters.With gears it seems more like larger cylinder more torque. My scooter was doing almost 50 with stock everything. Pipe and carb hold 40 on hills i'm fine with that. I think i can sneak a 2nd fuel tank next to the original by using another stock tank side by side - maybe. Was reading your post on 49 scoot about going full wave on the stator. I'll have to do that if i plan on seeing anything on the road - as i hit it!! AC just will not cut it. If that scoot did not have a front disc i'd leave it bone stock.Where i am it's deer fox bear and lots of turkey lights and brakes or stay home after dark. I'm fine with moderate acceleration, as long as it holds the speed i can attain. If i want fast i fire up the kz1000 or even the cb750. No the scoot is sit back and chill and it will get me there. The big bikes are stressful to ride for me anyway. The scoot is sit back and watch it all go by, instead of a blur of green. I'll have to pick your brain on porting at some point - compare notes. Gotta go buy some food before it rains.--------------------
Mine started at 2 turns out. I can't tell you where it's at now. It gets adjusted as needed. Even with an airbox, that seems to respond to the weather a bit and I have to change it a small amount here and there. You don't have to adjust the mix screw with a main jet change, but it may be necessary with any change that could affect fueling.
I can get around 60odd mph put of my gilera storm with top performance black trophy 71cc yasuni r i need to redyno it im running 21mm carb dellorto no rotor stock stator
You need to use a scale when tuning your pulley. That way you can add up the total weight and not just saying 8 grams or 5.4 grams. It goes by the total.
It goes by whatever you want it to go by. Total weight or average weight is semantics in this situation. Says the same thing essentially. It would only really change if you were trying to compare variators with different amounts of rollers, but realistically I don't feel that different variators should be compared too directly because they have a lot of characteristics that change things. Anyway, if I say I have 8g weights and you know I have 6 weights, you'd also know the total weight. If I say I have 48g of weight and you know I have 6 rollers, then you'd know I have 8g weights or 8g on average at least.
Nice video i just want to ask?! is the sliders to light to gain the top speed in full throttle can you try 9 to 11 grams w your setting and sèe the top speed or even 12 nd 13 grams again thank youfor sharing your experience
Based on monitoring RPM, I think no heavier than 10g would be needed if I was focused on top speed. Don't know for sure without testing, but at the moment I don't really care if it goes much above 50. I know it's not a powerhouse that's gonna do hyper race speeds. I'd expect 65-70MPH.
@@herminigildodelacruzjr1752 I don't think it's a wrong choice to go with all of Top Performance's offerings by any means. I also think part of their job (the reason they exist actually) is to sell parts so it's not the best business strategy to say actually the 2FAST exhaust made 0.5HP more than ours. (I couldn't tell you which is the best ATM. Just an example.)
Thanks. No, they make them for others. This is made for this engine. The horizontal Minarelli popular in Zuma/BWS, Jog, Aerox, etc... They may make them for Piaggio scooters too. Not sure.
The speedometer is a Trail Tech Vapor. I've got videos about it and it's setup. The scooter is a Vento Triton. Was a Vento Triton may be more accurate.
I have it for one. I wanted it to be kind of de-tuned as well. No one ever talks about riding a hyper race around. Not that I'm talking to anyway. I thought perhaps it could actually be a useful setup with less RPM. I'm actually happy with how well it does in this form. That said, it has made me want to find out what it's capable of at some point so I'll likely be trying to get a hyper race exhaust and new ignition.
@@evo70nugz17 I tried the smaller pilot/larger main route with the 103 and this carb. Doesn't work. Even with a slightly smaller pilot it starts hanging and running lean at lower throttle. Needle swaps couldn't fix it, at least with the needles I had on hand. Also, the ignition is a must with the pipe because this flywheel will most likely come apart before long with it at 12-14,000RPM. Plus, the lightweight ignition makes a big difference in response.
@@49ccscoot i run dio and jog motors and always have stock ignition just lightened I see around 12000 rpm,with,my dios,and 14000 to 15000 with my jogs and they stay together I do like rotor kits but there not necessary especially on big motors there perfect for 70cc ,I would,get a new carb try a genuine keihin 28mm
@@49ccscoot plus rotor kits wear out a lot faster all you,need is a good pipe.. I run 7.1 gearing and I see 90mph and still have great response and low end I gotta take a vid and send it to you
A member of the forum made it for me years ago and has modified it a bit along the way. Used to look like the typical tuned pipe, but he switched it to a Penton muffler for me a little while back so it performs the same with less noise and no repacking ever.
You dont have hills to climb.Weigths must slack the belt to make rpm and pull uphill.Magic-point.And the contra-spring must be new,lesser than a cm destroyed.At my perfect gear,you also drive 1-2km to heat the belt before it sticks right.Private,I would not believed in 105mm nozzle.When you buy the chain-saw or brush-cutter they are rich to run in the cylinder.And becomes ignition-knocking,start failure of heat.So you simply turn of as much gas as possible.0 gas.
the ignition advance is too extreme. you will melt it if you continue to just jet it and test it ... when it gets into its powerband teritory at around 12k rpm, that much advance will be too much, around 16is what people offten run on race stuff. also get a NARDO exhaust, the cylinder and that exhaust atre made for each other
2 stroke cdi's normaly retard ignition timing in higher rpms. one cdi more one less. for example, we set the ignition timing at powerband (10000rpm) to spec (e.g. 10°), than look how far it gets advanced at idle by cdi (e.g. 20°). this is done by a capacitor in the cdi which sits in the gate path of the thyristor. cheap cdi's and 4 stroke cdi's don't have this cap. this applies only for ac cdi's. greetings from germany.
Nardo?? 😂😂 Get a jollymoto, fa2st or the exhaust that top performace made for this cyl. We use nardos on top trophys with 21 mm carbs this guy needs at last a 28mm with a new exhaust
@@filippopontarolo nardo is the tip performance exhaust for it.... go to the top performance website amd check it . Its marked red .... other exhausts will work ofc, but top says it works best with that, so why bother
@@filippopontarolo black trophy has max power at 10k or there around. Or so they say.a sport pipe is used with it. At least here, 28mm will be a bit too large for 20ish hp the tpr makes
@@robivlahov TPR recommends their 24mm carb/intake and their exhaust in the instructions. That said, I'm prob gonna stick with this carb and try a different hyper race exhaust eventually. I'm not worried about it being a TPR exhaust. It will likely depend on availability, performance and price at the time.
If you mix the rollers, the diffrence between them should be like 1,5 grams. U cant mix 3 grams and 7 grams its to much diffrence. Get one of these u shaped exhaust and go like 3-5 grams rollers. Also remember to go up on the mainjet when lowering roller weights.
you have a seriously underperforming engine here ! you must install a better exhaust ( such as a stage 6 r1200 ) and let the engine run at 14000/14500 rpm this was one of my engines th-cam.com/video/TrjmftFeiNc/w-d-xo.html , your should run faster !
Very nice build man.
Though another exhaust could make a lot of more power in the higher rev range!
That exhaust look so funky😂
I like it. Doesn't look like everyone else's exhaust. It had the U bend and standard silencer most of it's life, but swapping to the Penton style muffler made it more quiet, looks different than what everyone else has, and never has to be repacked.
Maybe use a heat gun to make an indention in the bottom of the seat box to help clear the throttle cable?
man thats what i call building engine. mad prop to you sir!
Very nice, but you definitely need a new exhaust to tap into the full power of the kit, then tune the vario weights again.
I agree, as well as the lightweight ignition. I think it's interesting to see that a high strung kit like this can actually function pretty well in a de-tuned setup. I will likely be trying to get a hyper race exhaust and an ignition when I can. Hoping by about next spring.
keep up the good work! very enjoy to watch you :)
I will be riding my scooter today.... Thank you sir for another great video!
Excellent video this is the morning coffees
Love your videos, they are very interresting to wach I learned a lot from them, I bulid 70cc keeway AC now I'm bulding similar project as yours it's 70cc keeway LC your videos ansered all my questions and gaved me power to try my self and do it all by my self so keep making videos. Peace bro👍
Coming along very nice this is bro
Thank you!
Holly crap you right those engine's are quick and fast. . anyway great video .
You cant beat that Peace Pipe, sounds good...
The phbl 25mm is made for trial bikes i had the same one and my dyno guy kept having problems with it so we changed it for a polini 24mm D slide carb and it made a world of difference. You could try a maikuni Chinese carb for cheap I’ve heard of people get good results with those!
If you like you can check it on my channel!
Can u share your jettings?
@@mr.pastel4380 sorry man i dont remeber anymore. Has been a long time since😅
NICE build!
Looking good. As many said it could be ignition timing on the top end causing the cutouts. A chamber pipe and 4.5/ 5 gram is usually where I end up. In a side note I have a Polini evolution inner rotor that would work well for you
What pipe is this ? Doesnt look sufficient for the cylinder
Hi mate, you need 4 grams rollers (all the same weight! important!), one or two step harder clutch springs (like red or blue malossi), harder contrast spring (purple malossi) and a good exhaust for the cilinder like a polini evolution. Try and thank me later ;)
for the seat/carb interference you could take a heat gun to the bottom of the bucket and flex it in some.
complimenti,video molto interessante very very nice
Running that castor 927
May I suggest Roost R86 exhaust
What mechanical water pump would you recommend for CPI Horiz. Minarelli cases. I was going to build an R/T 70 engine I have all the parts and just lost interest. I have accumulated all the parts over a few years.
Top Performance was making one. I have a Stage6 pump. My only complaint with the S6 pump is that it's a pain to put the hoses on because they're so close together. It's supposed to flow more, but I didn't really see any difference with it vs a stock pump from a DRR or Apex ATV. That's another option.
90GTVert thank you 🤙🏽
First comment . stoked to see this. cant watch it now but will later. Keep em coming.
BROKE RICHGUY rip
Ok i lied i watched it lol. good vid man.
sir just want to ask.. i can't see any hose connected where oil should run. when is the oil is running?
I don't use oil injection. I pre-mix.
may i know what is the ideal ratio of gasoline and oil.. thanks..
@@iscclimueldolorico6093 Depends what the engine is and what oil. 32:1 to 40:1 works for most.
You should switch to a vespa :D Nice work mate
Hi! What 2t engine working temperature is ok? For ac and lc. What temperature is max to not damage the engine?
I always suggest that you monitor your engine temps with a tuned setup and use anything much above what you normally see as a danger zone. The reason is that some gauge setups will read different and not all engines are the same.
That said, usually about 350F is the most you want to see for CHT. Liquid cooled doesn't usually get that high.
I think we can safely say she's a ripper! Hard to tell since my butt is not on the seat, but a bit of clutch slip maybe a bit too much.
The pads looked good but the bell had some wear. Not enough force on the pads? More weight on them? I'm certainly no expert tuner.
Seeing you make those runs reminds me of how big a pain in the bag it is getting it right. So many factors involved, too many maybe.
And this is what i have to look forward to when i take a swing at it. And i thought tuning with a clutch and gears was fun.
Btw the inserts on the weights makes good sense - to me anyway. Shipping takes time, tuning is right now while it's fresh in your mind.
Has a good sound to it, a little angry. I think you got your beans worth.
I'm happy with it for what it is. I never expected it to be anything like the full-on version with all of the expensive hyper race parts... and it's not. But I also wasn't even sure if it would have enough power to get itself going with the mismatched parts so I'm pleased with it for now. I can tell you that getting the right parts will ease tuning. At least the ignition. If I had a lightweight ignition, it would likely rip right past minor tuning issues and zip off the line. I went through that with my 103. I have a smaller flywheel for it, but it provides nearly no charging. Anyway, I could swap that on and it would take off when I had tuning issues with the heavier flywheel. I'd imagine the inner rotors make like much easier with a hyper race kit.
@@49ccscoot It looked to me like you were well into the 50 mph range. Without a lot of fiddling besides finding a jet that was close.
As a comparison a "sport" 70 cc cylinder i take it you have used one. Did that get you into the 50's ? A dude i know in Boston ports malossi cast iron 70cc sport cylinders
into monsters for $$$. So i throw this out there. Is it the porting or the displacement
or a balance of both. I think the latter, but that leaves out how a 49cc cylinder can hit low 50's with a re jet and pipe. No it can not pull as hard as a larger cylinder can, but it will get there. So displacement is torque
porting is speed - it seems. It's a black art.
I've read some things on porting, i just don't have that many cylinders lying around to try it. There is a peugeot cylinder that will do amazing things with some porting, water cooled too. Then there is the advance curve, i think that's where the inner rotor units make it happen. But no lights is just not a workable option. Next few years i think i see a point that i will have some time to play with all that stuff. Till then i fiddle.
I would call your efforts a success thus far.
And i think that's worth the cash spent.
It sounds like there is more in it, jetting and maybe a pipe? Ignition box maybe.
Or just run it with a good tune.
@@johnrobinson357 I think the reason that you're equating porting with speed is probably horsepower and RPM. If you've got more power, you can improve acceleration as well. If you're not doing gear changes, then higher revs (with the power to back it up) will allow you to go faster.
I have used sport kits. I have gone ~60 or so with a sport kit and mild porting. Acceleration isn't there like this. I've gone 50+ on stock cylinders with a little porting and an exhaust. Again, weak acceleration in comparison. I have more fun with the acceleration than the speed.
@@49ccscoot And my reference is dirt bikes not scooters.With gears it seems more like
larger cylinder more torque. My scooter was doing almost 50 with stock everything.
Pipe and carb hold 40 on hills i'm fine with that. I think i can sneak a 2nd fuel tank next to the original by using another stock tank side by side - maybe. Was reading your post on 49 scoot about going full wave on the stator. I'll have to do that if i plan on seeing anything on the road - as i hit it!! AC just will not cut it. If that scoot did not have a front disc i'd leave it bone stock.Where i am it's deer fox bear and lots of turkey lights and brakes or stay home after dark. I'm fine with moderate acceleration, as long as it holds the speed i can attain. If i want fast i fire up the kz1000 or even the cb750. No the scoot is sit back and chill and it will get me there.
The big bikes are stressful to ride for me anyway. The scoot is sit back and watch it all go by, instead of a blur of green.
I'll have to pick your brain on porting at some point - compare notes. Gotta go buy some food before it rains.--------------------
How many turns out do you have the air/fuel mixture screw on the carb? If you change your main jet do you have to adjust the screw?
Mine started at 2 turns out. I can't tell you where it's at now. It gets adjusted as needed. Even with an airbox, that seems to respond to the weather a bit and I have to change it a small amount here and there. You don't have to adjust the mix screw with a main jet change, but it may be necessary with any change that could affect fueling.
Do a bigger exhaust and put arder spring in your Clutch asembly and do the roller agains
Is this the Cars and Cameras yard ?
well i know it isn't butt it damn lock like it 😅
I can get around 60odd mph put of my gilera storm with top performance black trophy 71cc yasuni r i need to redyno it im running 21mm carb dellorto no rotor stock stator
You need to use a scale when tuning your pulley. That way you can add up the total weight and not just saying 8 grams or 5.4 grams. It goes by the total.
It goes by whatever you want it to go by. Total weight or average weight is semantics in this situation. Says the same thing essentially. It would only really change if you were trying to compare variators with different amounts of rollers, but realistically I don't feel that different variators should be compared too directly because they have a lot of characteristics that change things. Anyway, if I say I have 8g weights and you know I have 6 weights, you'd also know the total weight. If I say I have 48g of weight and you know I have 6 rollers, then you'd know I have 8g weights or 8g on average at least.
Needs lighter rollers and other exhaust
Nice video i just want to ask?! is the sliders to light to gain the top speed in full throttle can you try 9 to 11 grams w your setting and sèe the top speed or even 12 nd 13 grams again thank youfor sharing your experience
Based on monitoring RPM, I think no heavier than 10g would be needed if I was focused on top speed. Don't know for sure without testing, but at the moment I don't really care if it goes much above 50. I know it's not a powerhouse that's gonna do hyper race speeds. I'd expect 65-70MPH.
Its a part of top performance to know what the best peak performance of you're build. top speed , fuel consumption just a thought , any way nice job
@@herminigildodelacruzjr1752 I don't think it's a wrong choice to go with all of Top Performance's offerings by any means. I also think part of their job (the reason they exist actually) is to sell parts so it's not the best business strategy to say actually the 2FAST exhaust made 0.5HP more than ours. (I couldn't tell you which is the best ATM. Just an example.)
Who supplied the nice rear shock?
It's made by RDR and I got it on eBay.
What engine is this tpr86 made for? I tought they only make them for Minarelli AM6. Great video!
Thanks. No, they make them for others. This is made for this engine. The horizontal Minarelli popular in Zuma/BWS, Jog, Aerox, etc... They may make them for Piaggio scooters too. Not sure.
Your clutch springs are way to soft. ;-)
Advance timing a bit with those light rollers
What ratio mix do you normally run?
I would like to help you tune this scooter let me know im from Philadelphia just let me know
I appreciate the offer, but I'll be alright. If I can't tune it well enough to ride, I don't want it.
@@49ccscoot i like to do a video with you just let me know if u interested to do a collaboration for both chanel
@@49ccscoot i dont have doubts that you will tune right i just like to do a video for both Channel
which speedometer are u using?
and what is the name of the scooter?
The speedometer is a Trail Tech Vapor. I've got videos about it and it's setup. The scooter is a Vento Triton. Was a Vento Triton may be more accurate.
Hi bro nice work! What do you think about piaggio engine?
Honestly don't know a lot about them, but at least the HiPer2 seems like a good one for a tuner.
Maybe I missed it but did you ever put gear oil in there? It sounds real good by the way👍
That re torque came back to bite you I bet 😂
Why do you use this exaust?
I have it for one. I wanted it to be kind of de-tuned as well. No one ever talks about riding a hyper race around. Not that I'm talking to anyway. I thought perhaps it could actually be a useful setup with less RPM. I'm actually happy with how well it does in this form. That said, it has made me want to find out what it's capable of at some point so I'll likely be trying to get a hyper race exhaust and new ignition.
@@49ccscoot pilot should,be like,a 48 to a 55 try that and main 110 to 120
@@evo70nugz17 I tried the smaller pilot/larger main route with the 103 and this carb. Doesn't work. Even with a slightly smaller pilot it starts hanging and running lean at lower throttle. Needle swaps couldn't fix it, at least with the needles I had on hand. Also, the ignition is a must with the pipe because this flywheel will most likely come apart before long with it at 12-14,000RPM. Plus, the lightweight ignition makes a big difference in response.
@@49ccscoot i run dio and jog motors and always have stock ignition just lightened I see around 12000 rpm,with,my dios,and 14000 to 15000 with my jogs and they stay together I do like rotor kits but there not necessary especially on big motors there perfect for 70cc ,I would,get a new carb try a genuine keihin 28mm
@@49ccscoot plus rotor kits wear out a lot faster all you,need is a good pipe.. I run 7.1 gearing and I see 90mph and still have great response and low end I gotta take a vid and send it to you
Get a internal rotor ignition
Bigger exhaust! ASAP
Did you made that exhaust yourself?
A member of the forum made it for me years ago and has modified it a bit along the way. Used to look like the typical tuned pipe, but he switched it to a Penton muffler for me a little while back so it performs the same with less noise and no repacking ever.
@@49ccscoot that is cool man. I can see that it took a lot of time to make that.
You dont have hills to climb.Weigths must slack the belt to make rpm and pull uphill.Magic-point.And the contra-spring must be new,lesser than a cm destroyed.At my perfect gear,you also drive 1-2km to heat the belt before it sticks right.Private,I would not believed in 105mm nozzle.When you buy the chain-saw or brush-cutter they are rich to run in the cylinder.And becomes ignition-knocking,start failure of heat.So you simply turn of as much gas as possible.0 gas.
the ignition advance is too extreme. you will melt it if you continue to just jet it and test it ... when it gets into its powerband teritory at around 12k rpm, that much advance will be too much, around 16is what people offten run on race stuff. also get a NARDO exhaust, the cylinder and that exhaust atre made for each other
2 stroke cdi's normaly retard ignition timing in higher rpms. one cdi more one less. for example, we set the ignition timing at powerband (10000rpm) to spec (e.g. 10°), than look how far it gets advanced at idle by cdi (e.g. 20°). this is done by a capacitor in the cdi which sits in the gate path of the thyristor. cheap cdi's and 4 stroke cdi's don't have this cap. this applies only for ac cdi's. greetings from germany.
Nardo?? 😂😂
Get a jollymoto, fa2st or the exhaust that top performace made for this cyl. We use nardos on top trophys with 21 mm carbs this guy needs at last a 28mm with a new exhaust
@@filippopontarolo nardo is the tip performance exhaust for it.... go to the top performance website amd check it . Its marked red .... other exhausts will work ofc, but top says it works best with that, so why bother
@@filippopontarolo black trophy has max power at 10k or there around. Or so they say.a sport pipe is used with it. At least here, 28mm will be a bit too large for 20ish hp the tpr makes
@@robivlahov TPR recommends their 24mm carb/intake and their exhaust in the instructions. That said, I'm prob gonna stick with this carb and try a different hyper race exhaust eventually. I'm not worried about it being a TPR exhaust. It will likely depend on availability, performance and price at the time.
Get a yasuni pipe at least get like a c16 or c21
If you mix the rollers, the diffrence between them should be like 1,5 grams. U cant mix 3 grams and 7 grams its to much diffrence. Get one of these u shaped exhaust and go like 3-5 grams rollers. Also remember to go up on the mainjet when lowering roller weights.
Changes the exaust an quit the air filter🤦🏻🤦🏻🤦🏻
That exhaust need to go asp.
That exaust is one of the best custom made peace pipes...
you have a seriously underperforming engine here ! you must install a better exhaust ( such as a stage 6 r1200 ) and let the engine run at 14000/14500 rpm
this was one of my engines th-cam.com/video/TrjmftFeiNc/w-d-xo.html , your should run faster !
Get a real pipe....