I know this was posted 3 years ago but THANK YOU. 🙌🏽 I’ve been looking for a good video on replacing an Octalink BB. NO ONE mentions the shimano tl-fc15 adapter you NEED! I kept thinking I had a different kind of BB. 🤦🏽♂️
Including me, right? I think that's needed on a Shimano FC10 from what I've just read - maybe that has a shorter centre pin than the crank puller I used, because I didn't need the adapter.
Thanks Choddo, a really great explanation. I'm looking for a replacement Octalink chainset for a 2007 Specialized Hardrock and this helps explain so much about Octalink design.
If the 'guide' opposite of the drive side is made out of plastic you're not supposed to grease it as per Shimano installation instructions. Great video, thanks!
Thank you, just converted to a single crank and this video explained exactly how to remove my old b.b. Quick question - is marine grease a suitable grease to use? Thanks in advance
Very good explanation. I'm wondering about greasing the plastic part on the left side. The Shimano manual says that the grease should be applied only on the thread of metal part on the right side. On the plastic part - no grease. What can be the advantage and disadvantage of applying the grease on this plastic? I don't want spoil something during assembly my new bottom bracket :)
Suspect it will prevent corrosion on the metal:metal interface (especially if they are different metals) but I guess not really needed for plastic. Might stop a bit of water getting in but it’s not great at that for long and does collect dirt!
How could it possibly tighten when you pedal clockwise looking from the chainwheel side and you tighten the threaded part in an anticlockwise direction?
Actually I read yesterday that this IS the reason the drive side is reverse threaded but I didn’t understand why at the time. Apparently rotation of the spindle causes something called precession where the outer surrounding piece rotates microscopically in the opposite direction and over time can loosen if it were conventional threading.
Hi Henri - Most people call it a "crank puller". I got it in a toolkit but I believe it's the same as this www.amazon.co.uk/Park-Tool-CWP-7-Wrench-Puller/dp/B0028YUZSS/ and you can get the 20spline tool separately www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-22 and you can also get better ones with a built in handle www.freewheel.co.uk/pro-crank-extraction-tool-square-and-octalink-type-cranks-prstlb036
Thank for the video! My problem: I need to know exactly what size bottom bracket socket you used to unscrew the (large screws) that keep the bottom bracket in place please, thank you!
Sorry totally missed this! Suspect a bit late, 2 years on, but it’s not really a socket, it’s a special splined tool which only comes in one size as far as I know.
@@choddo I figured it out, at that time, my XTR M952 crankset and Octlink bottom bracket after years of reliability wore out and broke. I had beat rode bikes on my Mongoose Pro Ti frame and at that time I was in a panic! The bike is my image here! I have since decided to upgrade to SRAM XO GXP BB and Crankset, unfortunately, I don't have time to ride anymore, gotten older and haven't ridden a bike now in years, this is 3 years old from 2017 when I was in much better shape 😀
Yes, someone else made the same comment. If it was on the non-drive side that would be accurate but not drive side. Sorry about that misleading statement. I should probably add a correctlve subtitle there!
Great vid. By far the most informative I have seen. Do you have any details on the type of BB puller you used? I also have a specialised but have noticed there are different options of pullers. Regards, John.
Thanks John, appreciate the positive feedback :) Both the crank puller and the 20 splined BB tool I used came in a set from X-Tools. You can see them top left and top right in the photo here www.chainreactioncycles.com/x-tools-bike-tool-kit-37-piece/rp-prod55963 - I think a square taper BB uses the same type but a pressfit or hollowtech ii wouldn't even use one. This Park Tool guide is quite good www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/how-to-remove-and-install-a-crank#article-section-6
A squir tapered is diffrent and need a small plug to go onto the tool. Just took 3 hrs looking for that part. Thought you would say a standard wont work . Just ordered the small plug like tool to push in . Theres small magnet ones u can buy . Just spent a while looking up
Yeah mines a octa something , a splin not squire tapered . Someone said you can put 5 pence peice in but my tool doesnt go in enought to start the thread . Just ordered a small round tool that goes on the end " but have a feeling my tool wont go in to thread . Its a clear cicle round shape all the way through
Like one of these that I guess acts as something for the extractor to push against if you’ve got a hollow axle? www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-octalink-chainset-plug-tool?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=19318&kpid=19318
You omitted the process of how you managed to extract the drive side BB final retaining (splined) nut as the tool could not make contact being held back by the axle, as in my case, & the reason I'm watching this video - ?!
UK Laird hi there - do you mean at about 04:30? If so, for me the tool didn’t seem to be held back by the axle though I could be mistaken. The depth of the hollow cylinder seemed adequate not to foul on the axle. But it seemed that it was almost slightly too big for the splines. I was able to keep it held in place just far enough with my thumb to get it to turn. I did wonder if it was a tool designed for a slightly different fitting that was just close enough to work. Just had a look on amazon and there do seem to be similar shimano compatible bb tools that are quite a bit shallower/stubbier. Is yours like that? But this one for example has an open back to let the axle through www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/x-tools-bb-tool-octalink-square/rp-prod14914
@@choddo Yes...hi there: for some reason I thought I was watching a Park Tool video! ...& was critiqueing the 'master'! (Lol). My comment was aimed at when u said those tools can be a bit shallow on the axle on the drive side; & that you'd already loosened it up a bit before shooting the vid..thinking that you'd kept the secret method a secret! My tool(!) was just about 2mm short, & yes, it was from a vendor on Amazon. So not having anything suitable to bang with a hammer I've passed the job of finishing the extraction to a fellow do-it-yourselfer. Thanks for responding. Laird.
Think the only Shimano pressfits are listed here (in a pretty confusing way) bike.shimano.com/en-EU/technologies/component/details/press-fit-bottom-bracket.html
thankyou i was watching this video as i was taking out my 3 speed crank, the tool i had was different to yours, the extender wasnt long enough to reach inside so it didnt work, i used a 9mm socket stuck it inside (to fill in the space) and then used the tool, it worked!
Hi - 8mm hex key, crank extractor (like www.chainreactioncycles.com/park-tool-crank-extractor-ccp44/rp-prod3614), 20 spline BB tool (www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-bb-tool/rp-prod689 ) and a wrench that fits it. Think that's it.
No, our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ uses anti-seize lubricant in the installation. So for his disciples the removal comes off nice and easy. Jesus is Lord, friend. 😎
The designer of Octalink is a terrible person. I wish their parents treated them better. Try Octalink, brought to you by the makers of Chernobyl! “”BREAKING NEWS! The engineers behind Shimano’s Octalink were found naked and dead welded inside a dumpster full of rabid raccoons 🦝 “ Roses are red. Violets are blue. Octalink is miserable. And so am I.
The content is very helpful. Well done, guys.
I know this was posted 3 years ago but THANK YOU. 🙌🏽 I’ve been looking for a good video on replacing an Octalink BB. NO ONE mentions the shimano tl-fc15 adapter you NEED! I kept thinking I had a different kind of BB. 🤦🏽♂️
Including me, right? I think that's needed on a Shimano FC10 from what I've just read - maybe that has a shorter centre pin than the crank puller I used, because I didn't need the adapter.
Thanks Choddo, a really great explanation. I'm looking for a replacement Octalink chainset for a 2007 Specialized Hardrock and this helps explain so much about Octalink design.
Awesome soundscape in the background
Very good, clear and comprehensive & done a pace that the novice can follow and understand.
If the 'guide' opposite of the drive side is made out of plastic you're not supposed to grease it as per Shimano installation instructions.
Great video, thanks!
Awesome video! You saved me from taking my bike to the repairshop!
Great "know how vid" I've now got better understanding, however, awsome thunderstorm in the background 👍
Thank you, just converted to a single crank and this video explained exactly how to remove my old b.b.
Quick question - is marine grease a suitable grease to use? Thanks in advance
Fantastic video glad I checked this before following my friends advice to just knock it out with a hammer.
Thanks a lot, clear demonstration!
Thank for this good Instruction.
Very useful information for a bike mechanic wannabe noobie like myself. Thank you!
Very good explanation. I'm wondering about greasing the plastic part on the left side. The Shimano manual says that the grease should be applied only on the thread of metal part on the right side. On the plastic part - no grease. What can be the advantage and disadvantage of applying the grease on this plastic? I don't want spoil something during assembly my new bottom bracket :)
Suspect it will prevent corrosion on the metal:metal interface (especially if they are different metals) but I guess not really needed for plastic. Might stop a bit of water getting in but it’s not great at that for long and does collect dirt!
Screw the non drive side in a little before installing the bb.
This will "guide" the bb in easier.
Actually used this advice yesterday on another bike 😊
How could it possibly tighten when you pedal clockwise looking from the chainwheel side and you tighten the threaded part in an anticlockwise direction?
You're right, did I say it would naturally tighten? Minimal friction anyhow. You'd hope.
Yes mine loosened up after many miles
Actually I read yesterday that this IS the reason the drive side is reverse threaded but I didn’t understand why at the time. Apparently rotation of the spindle causes something called precession where the outer surrounding piece rotates microscopically in the opposite direction and over time can loosen if it were conventional threading.
Great vid and awesome thunder in the background
Hi could you give the name of the tool for extraction, please ??? thanks
Hi Henri - Most people call it a "crank puller". I got it in a toolkit but I believe it's the same as this www.amazon.co.uk/Park-Tool-CWP-7-Wrench-Puller/dp/B0028YUZSS/ and you can get the 20spline tool separately www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-22 and you can also get better ones with a built in handle www.freewheel.co.uk/pro-crank-extraction-tool-square-and-octalink-type-cranks-prstlb036
Thanks!
Thank for the video!
My problem: I need to know exactly what size bottom bracket socket you used to unscrew the (large screws) that keep the bottom bracket in place please, thank you!
Sorry totally missed this! Suspect a bit late, 2 years on, but it’s not really a socket, it’s a special splined tool which only comes in one size as far as I know.
@@choddo I figured it out, at that time, my XTR M952 crankset and Octlink bottom bracket after years of reliability wore out and broke.
I had beat rode bikes on my Mongoose Pro Ti frame and at that time I was in a panic!
The bike is my image here!
I have since decided to upgrade to SRAM XO GXP BB and Crankset, unfortunately, I don't have time to ride anymore, gotten older and haven't ridden a bike now in years, this is 3 years old from 2017 when I was in much better shape 😀
Hi, I don't understand how pedalling clockwise would tighten the bb that is tightened ANTI-clockwise. Surely, that would loosen it.
Yes, someone else made the same comment. If it was on the non-drive side that would be accurate but not drive side. Sorry about that misleading statement. I should probably add a correctlve subtitle there!
@@choddo Thank you for your quick reply 😀
Nice work
Thanks a lot 🙏 😊
THANK YOU SIR, youn saved me some hadeache
Great vid. By far the most informative I have seen. Do you have any details on the type of BB puller you used? I also have a specialised but have noticed there are different options of pullers. Regards, John.
Thanks John, appreciate the positive feedback :) Both the crank puller and the 20 splined BB tool I used came in a set from X-Tools. You can see them top left and top right in the photo here www.chainreactioncycles.com/x-tools-bike-tool-kit-37-piece/rp-prod55963 - I think a square taper BB uses the same type but a pressfit or hollowtech ii wouldn't even use one. This Park Tool guide is quite good www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/how-to-remove-and-install-a-crank#article-section-6
A squir tapered is diffrent and need a small plug to go onto the tool. Just took 3 hrs looking for that part.
Thought you would say a standard wont work .
Just ordered the small plug like tool to push in . Theres small magnet ones u can buy . Just spent a while looking up
Yeah a square taper is different. You have a link to that add on tool in case it helps anyone else?
Yeah mines a octa something , a splin not squire tapered . Someone said you can put 5 pence peice in but my tool doesnt go in enought to start the thread . Just ordered a small round tool that goes on the end " but have a feeling my tool wont go in to thread . Its a clear cicle round shape all the way through
Like one of these that I guess acts as something for the extractor to push against if you’ve got a hollow axle? www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-octalink-chainset-plug-tool?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=19318&kpid=19318
Thank you for this. Saved me a few squiddlies 😎
You omitted the process of how you managed to extract the drive side BB final retaining (splined) nut as the tool could not make contact being held back by the axle, as in my case, & the reason I'm watching this video - ?!
UK Laird hi there - do you mean at about 04:30? If so, for me the tool didn’t seem to be held back by the axle though I could be mistaken. The depth of the hollow cylinder seemed adequate not to foul on the axle. But it seemed that it was almost slightly too big for the splines. I was able to keep it held in place just far enough with my thumb to get it to turn. I did wonder if it was a tool designed for a slightly different fitting that was just close enough to work. Just had a look on amazon and there do seem to be similar shimano compatible bb tools that are quite a bit shallower/stubbier. Is yours like that? But this one for example has an open back to let the axle through www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/x-tools-bb-tool-octalink-square/rp-prod14914
@@choddo Yes...hi there: for some reason I thought I was watching a Park Tool video! ...& was critiqueing the 'master'! (Lol).
My comment was aimed at when u said those tools can be a bit shallow on the axle on the drive side; & that you'd already loosened it up a bit before shooting the vid..thinking that you'd kept the secret method a secret!
My tool(!) was just about 2mm short, & yes, it was from a vendor on Amazon. So not having anything suitable to bang with a hammer I've passed the job of finishing the extraction to a fellow do-it-yourselfer.
Thanks for responding.
Laird.
UK Laird hey I’ll take that as a compliment :-) and yeah all I did was really the same thing with a lot more swearing ;-)
Hello, sou a Haara de São Paulo/Brasil - Gostaria de saber qual é o nome da chave utilizada que auxilia o extrator do eixo, obrigada.
At 01:56 ?
Sorry if this is a stupid question but is the Shimano ES25 a pressfit bottom bracket?
No it’s identical to the one in the vid
@@1airways ok thanks
Think the only Shimano pressfits are listed here (in a pretty confusing way) bike.shimano.com/en-EU/technologies/component/details/press-fit-bottom-bracket.html
where did you get that crank extractor tool?
Hi - it came in an X-Tools toolset (link in the comment reply below)
thankyou i was watching this video as i was taking out my 3 speed crank, the tool i had was different to yours, the extender wasnt long enough to reach inside so it didnt work, i used a 9mm socket stuck it inside (to fill in the space) and then used the tool, it worked!
Ah yeah - on this, there was a solid central pin type thing for it to push against iirc.
I need a list of all the tools you used please, thank you!
Hi - 8mm hex key, crank extractor (like www.chainreactioncycles.com/park-tool-crank-extractor-ccp44/rp-prod3614), 20 spline BB tool (www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-bb-tool/rp-prod689 ) and a wrench that fits it. Think that's it.
John 3:16 For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish but have everlasting life.
Did he also have trouble with his Octalink bottom bracket?
No, our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ uses anti-seize lubricant in the installation. So for his disciples the removal comes off nice and easy. Jesus is Lord, friend. 😎
Ewwww! Disgusting...
The designer of Octalink is a terrible person.
I wish their parents treated them
better.
Try Octalink, brought to you by the makers of Chernobyl!
“”BREAKING NEWS! The engineers behind Shimano’s Octalink were found naked and dead welded inside a dumpster full of rabid raccoons 🦝 “
Roses are red.
Violets are blue.
Octalink is miserable.
And so am I.
Excellent
any logical reasons?