Al Metal Casting: Tips for Making Good & BIG ones at home!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ค. 2024
- 23 tips that have really helped to improve the quality of the parts we can cast with molten aluminum, from our home furnace. In the process, we make a large casting for the CNC machine we have been building.
The next video, where we turn this casting into a precise part for the Z axis is here: • PRECISION the easy way...
If you got something out of this and would like to show Sam and me some love, go here ko-fi.com/floweringelbow and shout us a coffee or buy the 3D model of the CNC or our metalized epoxy guide.
@olfoundryman8418's channel: • Basin and sprue design... this is a good video on the pouring technique to get started, but see his others too.
@luckygen1001's channel is also wonderfully good for all things casting related - you could start here with the video I referred to about de-gassing • Can you degass aluminu...
See also this video by MetalMusings, if you are interested in de-gassing: • Degassing aluminium wi...
Our video about easy heat-treatment of castings at home: • Heat Treating Aluminiu...
Andrew Martin's video about 'surge traps' aka 'spin traps' • Foundry 44: Surge Trap...
Which alloy to use for casting blog post: www.floweringelbow.org/which-s...
00:00 Intro to the casting project and tips.
00:27 1. Why stop making aluminium muffins?
01:30 2. How to avoid 'drop out'.
02:19 3. Ways to modify flasks.
02:50 4. 'Directional solidification' and what it means for castings.
03:47 5. Notes on parting dust.
04:20 6. Rammer tech.
04:45 7. Consider green sand 'permiability'.
05:17 8. Prepare for mistakes.
05:38 9. How to coat patterns for easy removal.
07:00 10. Why add a 'spin trap'?
07:30 11. The 'very shallow drag' strategy.
08:57 12. The use of compressed air.
09:40 13. Put handles by the pins on the cope.
10:07 14. The pouring basin.
10:40 15. Which aluminium alloy to use?
10:59 16. Vent holes
11:45 17. Why be snappy about the melt?
12:23 18. Pre-heating and why it's important.
12:40 19. Doing a 'dry run'.
13:17 20. The crucible is how full!?
13:54 21. Pouring technique.
15:16 22. The significance of relative humidity.
16:49 23. How to analyse the casting.
Aluminum and Aluminum Alloys, Elwin L Rooy in ASM handbook vol.15 - s1.iran-mavad.com/ASM%20hanboo...
AFS Transactions 2005 American Foundry Society, paper the graph was from: www.jetir.org/papers/JETIR210...
Lets Connect!
Ko-fi: Shout us a coffee: ko-fi.com/floweringelbow
Our website: www.FloweringElbow.org
FB: / floweringelbow
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Those large castings are very impressive.
Nice (big) casting. Olfoundryman talked me into buying fresh ingots from a local foundry. I paid AU$5 per kilo but it was worth it. No more inclusions and almost no porosity.
While luckygen myfordboy and oldfoundryman are all wonderful resources it is also really useful to see someone who is open and honest about the learning process love your energy and enthusiasm keep it up! Can't wait to see what's next
Hi Skye. Thanks man, appreciate that :)
Pulling the pattern from the drag and replacing it will make it easier to pull after you have rammed up the cope. So I would not call that a mistake. Good video
An old foundry bloke told me melt fast and pour quick when it comes to Al. Don't scrape the dross off until you're ready to pour. Al absorbs nascent hydrogen from the atmosphere causing small bubbles in the melt which makes it worse the more you stir the Al. Get a welding rod and poke vent holes through the green sand to let out the gases. Easy enough to grind and file these off later.
All in all nice videos with a lot of information. Thanks for posting.
4:50 "Permeability". Hit like button. 5:06 "Kerfuffle in the casting" Subscribed. This is going to be one of those videos watched over and over with a notebook and pen. Thanks for making this extremely informative video. Added benefit: a lot of useful information in the comments, like this all around. Regards G
Appreciate that Gregg, welcome aboard! 😀
These instructions are inferior to what was available at the time of publishing. I would recommend you to view instructions that result in casts that have a smooth finish right off the casting and that have superior methodology resulting in easier production process with same resources and superior outputs.
It is understood that lack of exposure leads to awe even when exposed to inferior set of instructions. This is natural and it helps on the path toward superior outputs.
So glad I finally Found you 👍🏻😀
2:20 - Watch your fingers dude!
Great video!
Really Enjoyable to watch! Great presentation, super cool dude. Nice to see a couple working together like that. Neither of my wives would ever have lifted a finger to help me with my diy projects...
Hence the reason that they are now ex-wives.
Cool work sir 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Just found you via the beastly CNC monster construction vid. Thanks for being my new favorite channel. Our nonsenses align wonderfully!
Yo yo Yer Brown Dog 8 My Rabbit! Welcome aboard my friend! Thanks for being as crazy as I :D
A stack of good tips, and the casting turned out fantastic! It's going to be an impressive CNC!!
Thanks Geoff :)
Great lesson. It could save someone a year of frustrating mistakes.
Haha, thanks 😊 that someone could have been me!
Absolutely Awesome Casting !
If i could achieve anything of such Quality, or even Size, i'd be over the Moon !
Glad you and Marty are in touch. He's the Al Casting God, without question.
The Al alloy you use is definitely a major factor in how well it turns out.
Keep it up and more Flower to your Elbow !
Great tips, ill be implementing some of them soon so thanks!
Great video
As a fellow metal caster and admin for a large metalcasting Facebook group, I like to congratulate you on a great video. Most of your stuff is spot on.
A couple things - I wouldn’t give a specific % of bentonite for greensand since this will vary depending on whether they have a muller (most don’t and mulling by hand requires more bentonite) and also the sand grain size and character. You could go as high as 20% in some applications and 12-15% for hand mulling in the backyard environment would be reasonable for the beginner. More bentonite (and to a degree, more water) is a crutch that you use as little of as you can get away with, but for beginners, adding a little more will help them have more success until they wean themselves off of them.
You should poke your vent holes from the inside out that way you don’t get sand breakout on your mold surface. I know you know this and you even mentioned that you hoped the drill’s outward movement counteracted your inward motion. Still, with a great video like this, lots of beginners will copy this, consciously or subconsciously. If you take the time to make and edit a video like this, I would focus on showing the right things to do rather than showing the wrong thing (as with the flask handles or overfilling the crucible) and saying “don’t do this”, even if it’s a genuine mistake, because it’s in people’s nature to copy when they are learning.
The holes you showed when talking about hydrogen absorption look more like air entrainment during the pour or possibly turbulence. Actual hydrogen porosity bubbles would be smaller and more evenly distributed through the metal than that. Not sure if “hygroscopic” is the word you want to use (I think that’s what you said) as that implies the hydrogen is coming from water in the air, when it’s more likely originating from the fuel. You are right to suggest avoiding fluxes and long “soaking” times for the metal.
If you wanted to reach the far corner better, simply move your pouring basin to the middle (you can put a spin trap at either end) and the metal will only have half as far to flow, giving up heat to the sand, before it starts freezing. Easy enough.
Your angle iron over the edge of the mold is a great practice for wooden flasks and your attempt at directional solidification via your copper pipe chill is admirable. There is so much you got right in this video, I didn’t really want to nitpick any of it. Also see the few videos of Professor John Campbell (and any of his books) for more advanced tips. Also, if you’re on Facebook, consider joining the group “Backyard Metal Casting & Foundry Work”. We’d love to have you as a member!
Here is one of the John Campbell videos I was talking about: th-cam.com/video/9_w3OZ2b02A/w-d-xo.html
Hi Troye. I really appreciate you taking the time to write this thoughtful comment. Really love constructive criticism like this... As you see I have plenty to learn! I'll follow up on your reference when I get to my desktop...
Yeah, I'm fairly sure pouring from the middle would have been better. And agree on the clay content etc. I see that as more experienced peeps chime in I'll have to compile a sticky comment with corrections / important notes...
Thanks again :)
Geezers long winded, it's an "Introductory" video to Sand Casting he's just explaining where he felt he would avoid to lesson mistakes. No where in the description dose Steven say he is a Mastercraftsman specializing in Sand Casting, and I'm quit sure if I wanted to go any further, in this area, I would have the brains to learn more from other sources, Which Steven even recommended he left links to other TH-cam videos where he learn somethings. Giving advice or even critiquing is one thing but my god we don't need a novel it comes across as a know it all. I'm 100% you mean well, but why do it publicly why not send Steve or others a link to your forum "No". Knowledge is great o pass on but don't destroy a man's new business venture publicly. I was considering your Facebook page then saw chapters of critiquing now I'm not sure. Anyway my fair friend have the best days possible. From Busted Knuckles in Barrie Ontario Canada L4M2Z8
@@Busted.Knuckles.Garage it was all constructive and he took it as such. He is a member there. If you don’t like it, you are free to keep scrolling. You seem to be the only one butt hurt here.
@@TroyeWelch YT is all about helping each other, There are no experts here or anywhere. We are always learning new tricks. I don't cast, i manual machine, but my interests abound.
Its fun to cast aluminum also its nice to have someone who helping you ,good luck in ur work
It sure is :D
Very awesome brother 👏🫴💯
great success on the casting! love it!
Thanks so much!
To help your casting flow and fill the way you want it to, slightly angle the mold, this is especially useful on larger or flat castings.
i.e. on the large casting you just did, I'd put a 1/2 or so bit of wood under the mold box/support board the full length of the pouring / riser side just before you pour.
This will insure it's filled from the lowest point up & keep the flow from wandering around as you now had a definitive bottom (esp ideal on flat areas) it will also drive the evacuated air up in a prescribed way (not so much of an issue on your cast as your high spots were quite defined).
Ideally when angle casting like this you want your gates at the bottom, so your molten metal is not running across your pattern to get to the bottom, however, in my experience, this tends to be an issue of practicality.
Andy
Hey Andy. Totally makes sense and I feel silly for not thinking of it. Great tip, thanks!
@@FloweringElbow one Martin told me many many years ago.
impresive job!
Thanks Michael 😊
To let you know my first time watching and I had too go to my history because I forgot to give you a thumbs 👍 :)
Yay! Thank you Mack Daddy! I'm Grateful you took the time :D Come back and watch some other vids too ;)
I've been casting for a few years and still don't always succeed! Olfoundryman's channel is excellent. Hydrogen bubbles continue to be a problem for me. I preheat the scrap auto parts and pour as soon as it is all liquid. Less bubbles than I used to get but they are still present. Thanks for the video and source info.
Great to hear from you Larry! Thanks for watching :)
what about using a vibrating table?
Awesome 👏🏼… thank you for the tips‼
Welcome, thanks for watching 🙏
Great video! Very ambitious casting! Olfoundryman and luckygen are also my heroes in the foundry vlogs. Keep up the great work!
Thank you very much!
Both of those gentlemen have contributed greatly to improving the availability of good educational videos on the subject of casting for the TH-cam community. I am proud to say that they are both gentlemen from Melbourne and that I have been in contact with both of them.
Mark from Melbourne Australia
2:02 In Asia they mix the casting sand with oil, not water. Water instantly turns into steam when hot metal is poured into the mold. The whole thing explodes.
Really excited to see the CNC steadily coming together! I'd love to nip down to see it in action once it's done and the whole end of the world business has calmed down a bit :)
Hi Ariel, thanks for watching. Yeah for sure man. Get in touch sometime, I see you're in Aber? Peace, Bongo.
Nice work!
Thanks! :)
Great videos and content! Here’s a tip for removing the aluminum from your HSS & carbide cutting tools. I’ve used this method for 30 years and it works like magic. Soak your cutting tools in drain-o (sodium hydroxide). Dilute with a little bit of water, it does not have to be full strength. Use a plastic container and soak your tools overnight in a well ventilated area and the next day all the aluminum will be gone from your tools. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the tip, I'll try that :)
Thank you
You produced a usable part, and a huge one at that. All the rest is constructive criticism and valuable, but it's a footnote to the useable part.
Right on bro! :D
Thanks man , learned a lot
Glad to hear it friend! Thanks for watching.
good stuff sir God Bless
I've only just found your channel and, I have to say, I thin it's fab. Although my partner and I make our living manufacturing obsolete and unobtainable parts for vintage motorcycles, we absolutely love up cycling and repairing all sorts of things. Most of our machinery was bought in need of some repair apart from TIG welding equipment. But even that was bought by buy buying and repairing other welders.
I look forward to watching many more of your videos 😊
A quick edit to say, my grandfather was a sandcasting mold maker for a company called Simon Hartley. I think they made lots of huge castings for the water treatment industry.
Hi Sophie, that's so cool! And welcome! Where about's you based?
@@FloweringElbow We're in North Shropshire near to Shrewsbury. We found your channel while we were researching building and modifying stove fans. My partner's workshop fridge broke down and it struck us that it would be such a waste to throw it away so repaired it by replacing the failed Peltier plate. This fired my interest in an interesting technology. I'm learning how to repair any electronics I can at the moment.
Hi, well done.
Hey Tinker, thanks:)
I disagree with anyone saying the copper pipe for heat removal didn't help; steam coming out clearly indicates that it was carrying away a LOT of heat. Wanting to have the part freeze from the far side toward the fill, that probably made a big difference.
"Chills" are a long established method of heat management. No one should "respond without research". Have some chill theory:
foundrygate.com/upload/artigos/CHILLS%282%29.pdf
NEAT!
For our molding process we would use an air hammer. Not sure if that would be too much power? I wonder if something like more a massage gun would do the trick?
Hi
Happy new day video I
I like your show
I'm planning to make the oven aluminum too
Hey Rany, thanks friend :) Look forward to seeing your castings.
Very good video with some lot of information !!! And very use full degazing liquid metal chart at 19:25 to avoid buble in aluminum casting -> work at low pressure in dry environement with a quick melting aluminum I unserstand more why compagny put some lot of moneyr on casting in close atmosphere with inductive oven.
In order to perftly your mold why not wrapp it in plastic and use a tini air conditioneur to make a close loop to dry the mold slowly at a standard temperature room ?
The bean cans is actually a good idea. I did some aluminium casting last year with a small furnace I built but I always ended up having a lot of trouble getting the stock out of the homemade crucible (basically just a stainless steel pipe) since it deforms from the heat and pinches the stock. With the cans I could easily just turn it down in a lathe.
Hi Christopher, thanks for watching. Yeah, that's right. Actually we find we can just 'peel' the thin cans off the aluminium with pliers. We have turned therm straight off in the past, but watch out for thin strips that can catch and come loose all at once!
Good casting tips next time make the feeders slightly larger and make a twin handle shank so that your partner can help you pour if you had a bigger furnace capacity that would also help as you could ladle the metal into the moulds keep up the good work
Interesting, think you need longer pins on the cope!!
Great video. I don't have lots of experience casting, but it seems like you would have better results if the distances from the sprue to every location in the casting was reduced. Why not pour from the middle of the long edge and flow both directions? Also the diameter is pretty small for the size of the casting. The method I have always used is to have the sprue go thru the cope and we'll into the drag forming a well at the bottom to catch any unmelted impurities or sand and to allow the flow to stabilize before flowing thru the gate into the mold. Then the sprue also serves as a riser. It can be larger in diameter making it easier to pour and to feed the metal into the mold faster. Additionally the sprue will fill up providing a bit of pressure to push the metal in.
That off the side thing you are doing limits the pour speed to how fast it can run off the little gate at the top into the riser/sprue.
Another option for a part like you just did might be to put the sprue right in the middle of the part. Again put a well under the sprue to catch impurities, and possibly a couple ribs to increase the flow to the edges. The sprue and the well would need to be machined off later, but the distance to every point of the mold would be as small as possible and would fill mostly evenly.
Impressive project. I want to build a 5x10ft gantry style mill myself. I never considered casting the parts the way you are, and figured I would do it all weld fabricated. I have a few rail road rails that I plan to use for the bed. I look forward to more videos.
Hi Court. Thanks for watching. I think I we did it over, we might well put the sprue in the middle of the runner... The (almost certainly misguided) reason I didn't was that I thought the splitting of the flow into two directions, rather than smoothly round in one, might add turbulence/swirl in air and oxide layers...
Railroad rails for the CNC rails sound super interesting ;)
Thanks again, Bongo.
There is a whole lot of professional development and experience involved in the sizing and the various pouring components. The speed of the molten aluminium through the feeder network will into the mold Has to be kept down to avoid introducing any green sand to the casting.
Mark from Melbourne Australia
Smart
maybe not having the runners ore poring holes in the compacting step might simplify things even more. May also include more lose sand in the final mould.
Here’s a way to get a good (long)round piece but be careful get a propane can for blowtorch empty and cut the top off if your worried look up how or do the oxygen bit more expensive but safer if your paranoid
You are unbelievable. How do you get so good at so many things?
Haha. Thanks, friend. I dispute the premise of the question, but my best answer is that I make a huge number of mistakes, most of which don't get shown here!
You are an inspiration.@@FloweringElbow
I never really considered that the molten metal would absorb hydrogen from water vapor. Makes me wonder how much hydrogen from the burner's exhaust is making it into the melt. After all one of the main components of exhaust is water vapor. So no matter how dry you get the metal before the melt, the water vapor inside the furnace is going to be a significant hydrogen source. May be a significant advantage for electric furnaces for casting aluminum.
I guess that it comes down to a trade-off between the convenience of gas or oil burners versus the greater investment required for an electric foundry. For most hobbyists purposes the gas or then the vapourised oil burners are the way to go and dependant upon the amount of time and money that they wish to invest in the process.
Mark from Melbourne Australia
@@markfryer9880 right. cost to benefit ratio.
And I mean, the commercial foundry i worked in for a while, all their multi million dollar machines were gas powered. And they had great end product. High quality, good chemistry.
It can be done just fine with gas
I really enjoyed this and got a kick that you are student of the oldfoundryman too!
I only have questions of curiousity:
- did you calculate your risers or guess them?
- I don't know the volume and surface area of your part, but I would speculate that your risers don't need to be that large, especially with 4 of them - smaller risers - less material - safer pouring
- have you tried or would you consider using two gating systems and two (smaller) cruicibals and pouring from each side and the metal meets in the pattern? I realize that it would require two people pouring at the same time, but it might be alot safer for each of you
Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed your tips, the process and outcome - I thought you did great! My only concern would be that your pouring looks a little dangerous. I would suggest that you either need to build yourself some device to set that big crucible in to pour it safely and consistently - something with mechanical advantage over its weight. Or, utilize a second person/crucible/gating system to make your pour more manageble.
Hello friend! Sam and I want to thank you for watching! The next video, where we turn this casting into a precise part for the Z axis is here: th-cam.com/video/fHPnA0e8lfk/w-d-xo.html
We're certain you will have some tip(s) of your own to share, or some reflections on the ones you saw AND we love hearing from you, so drop us a comment and we promise to enjoy reading it :D 👇👇👇
Help! I have a highly detailed Bas Releif plaque about 3.5" X 5" that I would like to use in an 'open casting' project using .999 silver. Is it possible? Any tips?
De-gassing does work to get hydrogen out to avoid porosity in the part.
I wonder, considering the shape and size, wouldn't a vertical mold be another option ?
Hi Thomas, yes I suspect that could work quite well.
Nice job. I would have made a taller cope and you definitely need to pour faster. But I doubt I could have done better fist time around with that pattern.
Интересный канал . Удачи.
got this vid upp on side when watching copper bar castings and now ill suub and watch what els you got if you where interested in how your vid showed upp for me.
Hey friend, welcome aboard, thanks for watching :)
have you considered a pouring cradle, you can set it up, fail safe, tilting simple.
❤
hello friend any experience waxing really wet/frozen endgrain? the wax just bubbles away..in spring went on and stayed on
Hey Eggman. Think I need a bit more context here? What's the intention with the waxing? Are we talking about freshly cut logs stored outside?
@@FloweringElbow yeah, eggzactly!
@@FloweringElbow waxing to dry bowl blanks
@@cattleNhay ah 👍 in that case yeah it's a good idea if it's a wood that's really wet or likes to split. So.e people also wrap em in plastic...
yep . nice. very watchable. dont do yourself down too much dood! you are way further up the learning curve than many. where abouts in wales are you? im in newport and love a good melt. did you copy your muller from luckygen aswell?
Hi Itanc, thanks for your comment.
Yeah, the muller is semi-copied, as much as you can anyway when using scraps, odds and ends and an old washing machine ;) His is probably a bit better, but the working principal's the same. There's a bunch of vids about making it here on our channel :)
We are out Carmarthen way...
On the copper pipe’s efficacy - isn’t the steam coming out the other end evidence that it’s doing something?
Good evening Whirled Peas. Thanks for watching friend. I'm not really sure... It certainly got very hot, and will have cooled down that area relative to others, but I guess it has to do with timings, and how long / quick things freeze up.
In truth I don't think it's going to be too easy to know exactly the effect it had - and I'm not about to make another one as a control...
Deveria usar um desgaseificante para atenuar o efeito do hidrogenio no alumimio. Aqui , no Brasil, uso o carbonato de sodio, com bons resultados, ficando uma fundição compacta, sem porosidades. como fundente, uso o cloreto de sodio, o qual tira bem a escoria, ficando muito limpo e fluido.
You should use a degassing agent to mitigate the effect of hydrogen on alumimio. Here, in Brazil, I use sodio carbonate, with good results, leaving a compact foundry, without porosities. as a scump, I use sodio chloride, which removes the excoriating well, becoming very clean and fluid.
Thanks for the advice Alfredo, appreciate that :)
Think of searching more of youtube for other sand mold casters! Check out foundries and other youtubers!
FRUIT JUICE CANS, COFFEE CANS...
11:21 What's the large photo in the background of?
Hey Bob, can't say exactly - I fished it out of a skip for the material - it's completely white on the back side.
@@FloweringElbow You may have something very valuable. It would be interesting to find its origins. What is the picture of?
Your runner could be a lot bigger!
You're flask is empty. What a drag! How do you cope?
I think you forget to point out that fumes from liquid aluminum (which is considered as heavy metal) are extremely toxic to living organisms. And therefore, respiratory protection is required during the process. Greetings from the Working Environment Authority's health rules.
Nice tip Objektiv One.
Johnny
this is an itnersting project, but im not sure aluminium is the correct material for a precision machine. how does it behave when machining under vibration and pressure, not to mention the thermal expansion. i believe these "epoxy granite" moldings are more apropriate than using aluminium at all. anyways, you do with whatever you got. some people ven build concrete lathes.
Aluminum is used in the most precise machine tools like KERN 5-axis mills as a base for attaching all the linear rails etc. with cooling lines drilled in to the aluminum. Because of its thermal properties, it reacts very fast and uniformly when cooled/heated, so thermal expansion can be controlled more easily than in steel bodies.
Español
All this trouble and hard work... but Aluminum? Cast iron is much better. Young's modulus of Aluminum is terrible- in fact, mild steel is better. Vibration damping> Cast iron is great. Temperature the problem melting it?
Strength to weight ratio of aluminium is v good compared to cast iron 👍 so should be ok for a part that has to be accelerated and decelerate a lot... would be nice if vibration damping was better, but hence the metallised epoxy...
Steel and concrete was used on the main frame which stays stationery.
You can watch the video on making the gantry for more waffle/rationale on that.
Peace, Bongo.
After sampling a large amount of metal casting videos it is apparent that this video despite trying to appear as very knowledgeable contains several major flaws and instructs on using flawed and erroneous methodology and very bad habits that will result in a lot of lost effort and lost work. This leads to loss of resources and inferior outputs.
It is adviseable to seek out other videos for 'lost foam casting' that actually offer solid advise and lead to superior methodology and superior output for your invested efforts.
For example it is always best to truly compact fine grained *DRY* sand as tightly as possible. The lost foam or plastic model needs a proper coating layer so that the sand does not touch the actual model and which allows gases to escape at right speed.
With proper methodology as found elsewhere you can achieve great castings with superior surface and easier work methods than offered here.
The headline of the video that promises "good" casts is flawed and should be changed to "mediocre" or "inferior". An updated video ought to be produced and this video should be titled as "obsolete" in view of superior instruction that was already widely available at the time of publishing.
I'm not so keen on lost foam casting myself. Hence the green sand, where you can reuse a single pattern many times. Each to their own I guess.
Peace.
@@FloweringElbow It is not my desire to be harsh but to the point and short. I hope no ill will is conceived thereof.
I should wish that if you need to potentially cast engine parts or other machine parts of even neatly finished structural pieces that you too would benefit from the notion that you can yet much improve on methodology while maintaining much of the same resources.
Lost foam has many benefits -> you can produce a DIY CNC mill for producing foam pieces.
I should at some point strive to demonstrate how the CNC foam milling can be automated with DIY robots and a DIY storage system, all inexpensive.
23 is too many tips for the average person. Most people can only remember 7-9 things and Americans probably aren't listening
Hey Ronin - it would certainly be too many for me to manage at once! My hope is that people can save it to their watch later list and revisit it before melts, to incrementally add to their knowledge.
So many questions from this newbie (me 😁), like why not have an electric hoist on real slow speed separating the work so hands free to tap the mould apart. Would that work?
Also when searching bentonite, why havnt you gone in depth about where to buy it, on ebay its. $1m an ounce, I tried the local nursery and they just didn't have an inclination asto what I was talking about. I tried industrial and I have to order a truck load of bentonite so I can get it really cheap $600 delivered... . Any how if you could tell me your thoughts, it would be appreciated and thanks for the great video. I like the process you have learned, better than most ive watched. Have a good day everyone and have fun. Chow now.
Good morning Findvoltage, thanks for watching. Good questions.
1. Slow electric hoist would be a nice addition - I don't have one yet.
2. M bentonite clay is all from Cat Litter sold cheaply in Lidl. It's 100% bentonite - which sometimes goes by other names...
I have found it easiest to mix the clay into the sand wet. Saturate some of the bentonite until it forms a smooth paste, then add it to the sand. If you don't do it this way you're into grinding it up - which makes a lot of dust.... Hope that helps :)
@@FloweringElbow Cool as. Thanks for your response. Keep the excellent vids coming and I like your sense of humour man your really funny and cool. 😎
@@findvoltage Haha. You must not have seen my latest video. The dad jokes are on another level of poor ;) Peace.