Good man you are. You have just re-enforced your teaching. I have achieved oiling the gem stones in the way that you said, from your earlier stipulated videos I may add. Feel so chuffed. I Have not done the pivot holes with a pivot. Only pegged. So good this learning. Thank you Alex.
Have watched _so_ many watch "making" videos, absolutely love your style ! the occasional profanity makes it even better (not that I'm encouraging that :-) ) Yesterday, I did my _ever_ balance jewel oiling on a 6139 . . . . I have a microscope, I'm old, I'm patient, I was relaxed, I was prepared. I've been "oilfield" for 40+ years, I've rebuilt motorcycles, I've built CNC machines, the _hardest_ thing I've ever done was oiling those endstones. Between getting the Seiko incabloc springs out (easier than I'd thought) Pulling the endstones and housing out (again, not hard) those effing jewels . . they are wee ! my (insert deity of choice ) that took concentration, and zen, and breathing exercises . . . and a spare jewel from a junker 6106 .. :-) Thanks for the tips, guidance and cool hair. From Scotland, cheers min!
Very cool my man. With the experience do you have definitely have the right mind. Age is not so much a factor. Here are absolutely right, but then stones are teeny tiny so my best advice is to have complete concentration. When I take them out, I have these little plastic containers with a screw on lids that I secure them on so that they’re not just loose on the batch I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had one sitting on the bench and it accidentally touched it with the palm of my hand, and it disappeared. Good luck my friend and let me know if you need anything.
Great video as always! Snickering like a fool at pegging. Making use of what is learnt from the previous lessons and recapping these skills shows again how amazing a teacher you are 👍
Just beginning, I left a great job where I worked for 18 years, well paid, union, insurances, retirement…. I’m 51 and left everything with my cats to start all over in a new city. Life was being more and more boring. I’ve been at school since October, machining it is, manually and now the lathe, so cool, being young again. I’ve made un ressort de tirette successfully, They asked me to learn the French terms, yep! I’m a French Canadian from Quebec.
Great video, I always thought that you place a small amount of oil in the jewel and the ends tone. But your saying the oil will be drawn into the hole jewel. I just changed my method. Thank you Alex. I'm addicted to every video.
If you’re talking about the balance, that is correct. That’s one reason it so important to make sure that both jewels have the correct amount. As an example, if one jewel is light, not enough oil gets drawn up into the jewel as the other one and that’ll cause differences in amplitude in the horizontal positions.
So that's how to get a drop of oil on a jewel stone. It was giving me fits the other day by sticking to the oiler. I'm a beginner and have much to learn. Thanks, Alex.
Another excellent tutorial! I’ve struggled a bit with trying to apply the oil drop while holding the cap jewel with tweezers (ping!). Never realized that you can apply the drop without touching the jewel and get the drop to land without causing the oiler to stick to the jewel. Instead I’ve settled on picking up the jewel with a pointed bit of Rodico, inverting the jewel to present the flat surface at just a right angle under the microscope, and applying the drop. I then lift the Rodico back to the bench, and transfer the jewel with tweezers to some watch paper. I put the Chacone in place, and it’s done. Finally, I’ve found that Epilame-treated end stones are better for achieving a dome of oil that doesn’t spread out as much, if that makes sense. Thank you, Alex!
Hi Paul, As you can clearly see when I lubricate the 4 end stones I am not holding them at all. That's why I like cleaning them with the leather buff. A couple swipes on the watch paper, flip and a drop of oil. Done
I discovered this not so long ago and it was like the clouds had separated and the sun came shining in. I was pretty chuffed with myself. I have also learned to pickup a consistent amount of oil every time. Like most everything else, this all just comes with practice. My 1900 timegrapher will be delivered this coming week and I have several movements lined up for improving.
@@TropicalSpeed timegraphers can be a very humbling experience sometimes. They will by the very nature of their data tell you just how good of a job you are doing.
That is what I'm looking forward to; using this machine to gauge my work. Up to now, I had no actual way of knowing analytically if I was getting any better or even performing the work correctly which is to yield better results. I am expecting the timegrapher to tell me whether I am doing things correctly. As a hobby, there has to be an end-game. For me, a movement that performs better each time I apply something that I have learned, to see positive results; that is my end-game. If the machine indicates differently, then I know that I need to evaluate and try again.
✨✨ Get Your Copy of my eBook, The Secrets for Adjusting Watch Rates ✨✨ ➡➡PDF DOWNLOAD watchrepairtutorials.com/ebook/ ⬅⬅ ➡➡Available on Kindle & Soft Cover @ geni.us/4x8C (Amazon) ✨✨Watchmaking Courses and Training ✨✨ ➡➡ watchrepairtutorials.com/watchmaker-course/ ⬅⬅
I found a quart of technical grade Hexane on Amazon for about $10 less. They also offer a gallon for $56 Hexane - Technical Grade - 1 Quart Can - 32 FL Oz - Extraction, Cleaning Agent, Glues, Roofing, Leather - Domestically Sourced Chemical - Made in America - Alliance Chemical
I see it for 26 a quart or 56 a gallon. Just be aware that technical grade is less pure than Reagent grade but that shouldn’t r an issue here. Also the sale of reagent grade is now controlled by the DEA and you have to be a business with a purpose for it so home watchmakers can’t buy it anyway. At 26 a quart, that’s a pretty good deal. Thanks Ray
Good advice as well as a glimpse of what is to come. Thanks again, Alex. I couldn't help but noticing a picture on the wall behind you that is hand signed. Care to tell us about this one? Regards, Ray
One of my favorite episodes of the Sopranos is called “Pine Barrens”. This is a photo from the scene when Christopher and Pauly Walnuts were lost out in the woods and it’s autographed by the two actors, Michael Imperioli and Tony Sirico.
That is just too cool! Speaking of the Pine Barrens; that was me and my buddies favorite place to hangout, drink, listen to R&R, and 4-wheelin'. We would disappear into the barrens for days at a time in our Broncos, Blazers, Land Cruisers and never see a paved road. We roughed it out there all year long. That was true Freedom.
Your videos are great! I love the realism and the information. Question for anyone. I have a Elgin 18s model 4 movement. It is missing a jewel screw on the balance cock. Once pressure was applied at the missing screw the movement runs. I am newish and do not have a way to measure the thread. What is the best way to get a replacement? I can buy a whole 18s balance cock, buy a 16s balance cock (cheaper option), a screw assortment (and hope one is included), buy a direct replacement, buy a parts movement, etc. Which is the best?
There is no easy answer to this question, because the answer is, "It depends". This is always going to be the dilemma, for a watchmaker who just buys random watches. Parts. Here is my advice to alleviate this issue. Specialize. Just like a watchmaker. Watchmakers typically specialize in Seiko, eta, pocket watches, Hamilton pocket watches etc. The closer you can define what you are interested in, the easier it is to collect parts for those types of watches.
@@watchrepairtutorials Thanks for the response. Your answer makes sense. I was a pipe fitter/welder for 20+ years. I am now a antiques dealer and specialize in mechanical repair and restoration. That is a broad spectrum. I usually work on clocks, music boxes, toys and paper such as books or historical documents, etc. Watches are new to me. I have about 20 that need to be gone through. I am now getting started. Most are running to a certain extent. I figured, watches are like tiny clocks, I will figure it out.
I put a felt wheel on my rotary tool, and then use a polish called Polinum and just touch the tip of the oiler briefly to a slow turning wheel. Briefly like one second at a time. And then check it it doesn’t take much.
Mr Hamilton..... as a beginner and a learner I am curious, when you learned how many times did you fail during that learning process? I treat every failure as a learning experience but curious so I can gage if im learning anything on my end. Ty for amazing content.
All the time. The difference was I had somebody by my side to show me what I did wrong and how to do it correctly. Then you get to the point where if you’re about to do something that you’ve never done before you could ask questions. Make no mistake about it. What you were doing is hard so you have to take small victories as a win. Your advantage over many is as you say you are a learner, which is a huge advantage. Take your time understand what you did wrong and learn, but you should’ve done. It’s also important not to get in over your head and realize when you run into a situation that you’re not ready for yet. Maybe it’s a tool you don’t have or a technique that you’re not sure about. This is a field of study that never ends. Alex
Been following this channel and the content for a while now and its awesome. Have yet to fiddle on a watch but will do soon. Am waiting for some stuff to come in. I have a Tissot thats weird, its a 709 but stuff I order is far to small to fit (: (:
My first service attempt is going to be a single jewel Agon EB 8387-66. It runs, but I think the main spring needs a cleaning and the stem looks a little discolored/rough. How are the wheels sitting in the bridge with no jewel? I'm afraid I won't be able to get it back together.
@@BokiPetrovic88 If you are referring to assembling any movement in general it kind of depends on the movement. In general, I would install the keyless works, then the power train, then the balance and finally the motion works and calendar system is there is one.
Thanks for great videos and tips. Just made that tool from an old balance staff. I'd like to know what's the best way to reduce the diameter of the inner loop of a mainspring. The mainsprings available for vintage Seikos have too large loops for the arbor.
One of the main advantages, especially for new watchmakers is not getting the parts mixed up. You wanna make sure that you return the jewel settings to their proper location otherwise the movement will not operate correctly. secondly the endstones need to be perfectly clean which this method ensures. No acetone is not a good substitute. Is much too harsh for cleaning watch parts. Another substitute for hexane would be TCE.
Hi Alex, you had a neat trick on using a syringe to contain and dispense 9010. So obviously I bought some syringes on Amazon. Two sizes - a very thin 1 ml one (for insulin shots) and a slightly bigger 3ml one. My problem is that it's impossible to pull any oil into the syringe! It feels like it's too thick. I even tried pulling the plunger out and pouring a little 9010 in from the top, but then I face a different problem. Too thick to be able to push the plunger down! How were you able to do this? Any other tricks would be appreciated. Thanks!
For cleaning balance jewels why do you prefer your hard metal tool over just regular pegwood, the same as you'd use on all the other jewels? Granted it is tricky to sharpen pegweed to the fine point needed, and then guide that into the jewel hole without breaking the tip, but once inside the wood will compress into the correct shape and will clean all of the sidewalls of the hole. Your metal tool will likely just contact the rim of the jewel hole and wont have the same abrasive cleaning action deeper down in its sidewalls.
First I have never seen a way to sharpen a piece of peg wood to 0.03 mm. The tool i use is made from a balance staff and can be selected to just fit inside the jewel hole.
Thanks for everything. My question is; why is it after I service a vintage watch, everything looks good dial up, excellent amplitude, rate, beat error but when I flip it dial down or any other positions, the rate jumps to over + or - 100 seconds per day & the amplitude & beat error jumps all over the place. Thank you.
Good question! If this is happening all the time then you need to look at your entire servicing procedure. When amplitude and rates vary in the horizontal positions there are about 25 different things that can cause this starting at the barrel and going all the way to the balance.
I'm finding a very weird thing with new endstones i'm scavenging off nh35 movements. They're so smooth oil doesn't wick to them like on older ones from my old 7s26 movements. I have to oil them SEVERAL times to get enough oil on the endstone to make a correct size bead whereas with the older ones the oil just transfers to it as you would expect. I don't know if seiko has upped their game polishing these jewels to a higher degree or what. It's not a big deal but it's definitely strange and annoying. As always thanks for the video.
There are a couple issues with pegwood in this case. How to hold the chaton and peg it without it flying off and how how do you sharpen the pegwood so the tip is less than a 1/10 of a mm. If you can do that, go for it.😊
the big movement piece on my seiko 5 automatic watch gets stuck sometimes and i don't know how to fix it. should i use a lubricating oil and if so which one.
@@watchrepairtutorials on the seiko 7s26a there is a big semi circle shape that spin around to give the watch power but on my watch it gets jammed so i have to manually shake the watch for it to get unjammed. i hear lubricant oil could work but i don't know which one to use.
@@CR7_Kaka Using lubricant on a rotor is a bit tricky because it's not as simple as just applying oil. In most cases, if the rotor is sticking, it could be due to dirt, wear, or a misalignment in the rotor's pivot or bearing, rather than just needing lubrication. Over-oiling or using the wrong lubricant can actually cause more problems. Here’s what I suggest: Check for visible dirt or debris on or around the rotor and clean the area carefully if needed. Avoid over-lubrication. The rotor pivot and bearing usually require minimal oil. For the 7S26A movement, you can use a small amount of Moebius 9010 oil on the rotor pivot. Just a tiny drop is enough. If the issue persists, the rotor could be misaligned or the bearing could be worn, and it might need a deeper cleaning or adjustment, which could require a service from a professional. I hope this helps!
Hi Alex, can you please tell me where to get one of those syringe cases? Did you make it yourself? I plan on becoming one of your apprentices soon... actually a Journeyman because I want a copy of your book and the other extras.
I have a doubt. I serviced a hmt/citizen 21J movement recently, but no matter how much i clean and properly lubricant the movement, the beat error is 5 to 6 and there are dot marks all over the timegrapher. Any tips?
Yes, you need to find the line of center so that the impulse jewel is center in it. If you are referring to a beat error if 0.5 ms that is not an issue to worry about. If it 5.0 ms that is an issue that needs to be corrected before anything else can happen. Perfect lubrication will not correct the beat error
But did you hold your breath while oiling the stones? 😂. I did this for the first time the other day and it’s amazing how damn shaky I am under a microscope. I also held my breath so much, I thought I was gonna pass out. Thanks for your videos, I serviced my first pocket watch the other day because of you.
These videos are brilliant and reliable and deserve many more views.
I always appreciate your feedback. Thanks as always
Good man you are. You have just re-enforced your teaching. I have achieved oiling the gem stones in the way that you said, from your earlier stipulated videos I may add. Feel so chuffed. I Have not done the pivot holes with a pivot. Only pegged. So good this learning. Thank you Alex.
Thanks Ross
Have watched _so_ many watch "making" videos, absolutely love your style ! the occasional profanity makes it even better (not that I'm encouraging that :-) )
Yesterday, I did my
_ever_ balance jewel oiling on a 6139 . . . .
I have a microscope,
I'm old,
I'm patient,
I was relaxed,
I was prepared.
I've been "oilfield" for 40+ years, I've rebuilt motorcycles, I've built CNC machines, the _hardest_ thing I've ever done was oiling those endstones.
Between getting the Seiko incabloc springs out (easier than I'd thought)
Pulling the endstones and housing out (again, not hard)
those effing jewels . . they are wee !
my (insert deity of choice ) that took concentration, and zen, and breathing exercises . . . and a spare jewel from a junker 6106 .. :-)
Thanks for the tips, guidance and cool hair.
From Scotland, cheers min!
Very cool my man. With the experience do you have definitely have the right mind. Age is not so much a factor. Here are absolutely right, but then stones are teeny tiny so my best advice is to have complete concentration. When I take them out, I have these little plastic containers with a screw on lids that I secure them on so that they’re not just loose on the batch I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had one sitting on the bench and it accidentally touched it with the palm of my hand, and it disappeared. Good luck my friend and let me know if you need anything.
As always, perfect and precious tips.
Greetings from Germany.
Thank you very much! Happy Holidays to you.
With each video you learn something new.
Thank you for sharing your valuable knowledge.
My pleasure brother.
Great video as always! Snickering like a fool at pegging. Making use of what is learnt from the previous lessons and recapping these skills shows again how amazing a teacher you are 👍
Wow thank you so much brother we have a lot more to cover so I hope to see you again.
Well put Alex…. Takes practice too! Thank you for posting!!
Always!
So lucky I found you, studying in the only watchmaking school in Canada, thanks so much! You are a real teacher fo me!
Wow congratulations. How far into the training have you gotten so far?
Just beginning, I left a great job where I worked for 18 years, well paid, union, insurances, retirement…. I’m 51 and left everything with my cats to start all over in a new city. Life was being more and more boring. I’ve been at school since October, machining it is, manually and now the lathe, so cool, being young again. I’ve made un ressort de tirette successfully, They asked me to learn the French terms, yep! I’m a French Canadian from Quebec.
I might be a contributor soon, you are a skilled teacher, will you help me if I have misunderstandings and questions?
Name is Jean Luc
@@spiffydevo8434 of course
Nice one Alex, your knowledge is extreme, so much for us learners to remember! See you in the next one!
Thanks Boyd. Gotta get those balance pivots running good man. 😀
Never thought about it but will give it a try getting better should be our aim😃
Thanks Amanda.
It’s not always an issue but when you need it, it’s the best option I’ve ever used.
Wonderful stuff buddy, just stripped and cleaned my 1st ever movement, very timely video thanks for sharing
Alright man, welcome and don't be a stranger
Clear and simple! Typical Alex! Thank you!
Glad you liked it Edson. Good to see you again.
Great video, I always thought that you place a small amount of oil in the jewel and the ends tone. But your saying the oil will be drawn into the hole jewel. I just changed my method. Thank you Alex. I'm addicted to every video.
If you’re talking about the balance, that is correct. That’s one reason it so important to make sure that both jewels have the correct amount. As an example, if one jewel is light, not enough oil gets drawn up into the jewel as the other one and that’ll cause differences in amplitude in the horizontal positions.
Another great video, Thanks.
Thanks Keith
So that's how to get a drop of oil on a jewel stone. It was giving me fits the other day by sticking to the oiler. I'm a beginner and have much to learn. Thanks, Alex.
You may have noticed when I oiled the 4 end stones I wasn’t holding them at all with tweezers.
That’s the beauty of this method.
I went on a buying binge when i first got into the hobby... i have moebius 8000 and dc m-kote and not sure of their uses thanks sir
8000 is really only good for practicing. It doesn’t have any other properties that you want for your train wheels. Not sure what the other is.
Another excellent tutorial! I’ve struggled a bit with trying to apply the oil drop while holding the cap jewel with tweezers (ping!). Never realized that you can apply the drop without touching the jewel and get the drop to land without causing the oiler to stick to the jewel. Instead I’ve settled on picking up the jewel with a pointed bit of Rodico, inverting the jewel to present the flat surface at just a right angle under the microscope, and applying the drop. I then lift the Rodico back to the bench, and transfer the jewel with tweezers to some watch paper. I put the Chacone in place, and it’s done. Finally, I’ve found that Epilame-treated end stones are better for achieving a dome of oil that doesn’t spread out as much, if that makes sense. Thank you, Alex!
Hi Paul,
As you can clearly see when I lubricate the 4 end stones I am not holding them at all. That's why I like cleaning them with the leather buff. A couple swipes on the watch paper, flip and a drop of oil. Done
I made a leather polisher like Alex taught and it holds the jewel in place for the oiling. Great tool. Highly recommend
I discovered this not so long ago and it was like the clouds had separated and the sun came shining in.
I was pretty chuffed with myself.
I have also learned to pickup a consistent amount of oil every time. Like most everything else, this all just comes with practice.
My 1900 timegrapher will be delivered this coming week and I have several movements lined up for improving.
@@TropicalSpeed timegraphers can be a very humbling experience sometimes.
They will by the very nature of their data tell you just how good of a job you are doing.
That is what I'm looking forward to; using this machine to gauge my work.
Up to now, I had no actual way of knowing analytically if I was getting any better or even performing the work correctly which is to yield better results. I am expecting the timegrapher to tell me whether I am doing things correctly.
As a hobby, there has to be an end-game. For me, a movement that performs better each time I apply something that I have learned, to see positive results; that is my end-game. If the machine indicates differently, then I know that I need to evaluate and try again.
✨✨ Get Your Copy of my eBook, The Secrets for Adjusting Watch Rates ✨✨
➡➡PDF DOWNLOAD watchrepairtutorials.com/ebook/ ⬅⬅
➡➡Available on Kindle & Soft Cover @ geni.us/4x8C (Amazon)
✨✨Watchmaking Courses and Training ✨✨
➡➡ watchrepairtutorials.com/watchmaker-course/ ⬅⬅
Thanks Alex
Did anyone laugh like a 13 yr when they hear “pegging out jewel holes? 😅
I found a quart of technical grade Hexane on Amazon for about $10 less.
They also offer a gallon for $56
Hexane - Technical Grade - 1 Quart Can - 32 FL Oz - Extraction, Cleaning Agent, Glues, Roofing, Leather - Domestically Sourced Chemical - Made in America - Alliance Chemical
I see it for 26 a quart or 56 a gallon. Just be aware that technical grade is less pure than Reagent grade but that shouldn’t r an issue here.
Also the sale of reagent grade is now controlled by the DEA and you have to be a business with a purpose for it so home watchmakers can’t buy it anyway.
At 26 a quart, that’s a pretty good deal.
Thanks Ray
Good video! Keep up the good work.
Thanks, will do!
Good advice as well as a glimpse of what is to come. Thanks again, Alex.
I couldn't help but noticing a picture on the wall behind you that is hand signed.
Care to tell us about this one?
Regards,
Ray
One of my favorite episodes of the Sopranos is called “Pine Barrens”.
This is a photo from the scene when Christopher and Pauly Walnuts were lost out in the woods and it’s autographed by the two actors, Michael Imperioli and Tony Sirico.
That is just too cool!
Speaking of the Pine Barrens; that was me and my buddies favorite place to hangout, drink, listen to R&R, and 4-wheelin'. We would disappear into the barrens for days at a time in our Broncos, Blazers, Land Cruisers and never see a paved road. We roughed it out there all year long. That was true Freedom.
Спасибо!! Потрясающе!! Это очень-очень Круто! Thank you!!!!!
👍
Your videos are great! I love the realism and the information. Question for anyone. I have a Elgin 18s model 4 movement. It is missing a jewel screw on the balance cock. Once pressure was applied at the missing screw the movement runs. I am newish and do not have a way to measure the thread. What is the best way to get a replacement? I can buy a whole 18s balance cock, buy a 16s balance cock (cheaper option), a screw assortment (and hope one is included), buy a direct replacement, buy a parts movement, etc. Which is the best?
There is no easy answer to this question, because the answer is, "It depends". This is always going to be the dilemma, for a watchmaker who just buys random watches. Parts. Here is my advice to alleviate this issue. Specialize. Just like a watchmaker. Watchmakers typically specialize in Seiko, eta, pocket watches, Hamilton pocket watches etc. The closer you can define what you are interested in, the easier it is to collect parts for those types of watches.
@@watchrepairtutorials Thanks for the response. Your answer makes sense. I was a pipe fitter/welder for 20+ years. I am now a antiques dealer and specialize in mechanical repair and restoration. That is a broad spectrum. I usually work on clocks, music boxes, toys and paper such as books or historical documents, etc. Watches are new to me. I have about 20 that need to be gone through. I am now getting started. Most are running to a certain extent. I figured, watches are like tiny clocks, I will figure it out.
Hi Alex, great content! What do you use to polish the black oiler?
I put a felt wheel on my rotary tool, and then use a polish called Polinum and just touch the tip of the oiler briefly to a slow turning wheel. Briefly like one second at a time. And then check it it doesn’t take much.
Great video. Is using Bergeon b-dip, the same as hexane?
They accomplish the same thing, just different ingredients
Mr Hamilton..... as a beginner and a learner I am curious, when you learned how many times did you fail during that learning process? I treat every failure as a learning experience but curious so I can gage if im learning anything on my end. Ty for amazing content.
All the time. The difference was I had somebody by my side to show me what I did wrong and how to do it correctly.
Then you get to the point where if you’re about to do something that you’ve never done before you could ask questions.
Make no mistake about it. What you were doing is hard so you have to take small victories as a win. Your advantage over many is as you say you are a learner, which is a huge advantage. Take your time understand what you did wrong and learn, but you should’ve done.
It’s also important not to get in over your head and realize when you run into a situation that you’re not ready for yet. Maybe it’s a tool you don’t have or a technique that you’re not sure about.
This is a field of study that never ends.
Alex
@@watchrepairtutorials thank you
Been following this channel and the content for a while now and its awesome. Have yet to fiddle on a watch but will do soon. Am waiting for some stuff to come in. I have a Tissot thats weird, its a 709 but stuff I order is far to small to fit (: (:
I recommend starting with an ST36, watching the first 15 videos that I did before moving on. Either way it’s up to you.
@@watchrepairtutorials That is exactly what I did, watched all of them and will watch them again and more of them👍🏼
@@eugenerijnders perfect👍
Thank you, Alex, for another wonderful demonstration.
My pleasure Kypros. Thanks as always
My first service attempt is going to be a single jewel Agon EB 8387-66.
It runs, but I think the main spring needs a cleaning and the stem looks a little discolored/rough. How are the wheels sitting in the bridge with no jewel? I'm afraid I won't be able to get it back together.
Thats a rough place to start Jim.
Great videos Alex, thanks. Can you show us the assembly order of the movement and one more question, what is the size of that diamond jar? Thanks
Which movement? the jar that I linked to is 2.5 inches tall and 2 inches wide or 6.35 cm x 5.08 cm
@@watchrepairtutorials in general, if there is any specific order (general rules) while assembling the movement? Thanks
@@BokiPetrovic88 If you are referring to assembling any movement in general it kind of depends on the movement.
In general, I would install the keyless works, then the power train, then the balance and finally the motion works and calendar system is there is one.
Thanks for great videos and tips. Just made that tool from an old balance staff. I'd like to know what's the best way to reduce the diameter of the inner loop of a mainspring. The mainsprings available for vintage Seikos have too large loops for the arbor.
I don’t know if there is an easy way. The safest way is with the arbor in the loop.
@@watchrepairtutorials Ok thanks, keeping something inside the loop sure is a must.
What’s the difference between this and just cleaning it in a cleaning machine? Also is acetone a good option like Hexane
One of the main advantages, especially for new watchmakers is not getting the parts mixed up. You wanna make sure that you return the jewel settings to their proper location otherwise the movement will not operate correctly. secondly the endstones need to be perfectly clean which this method ensures.
No acetone is not a good substitute. Is much too harsh for cleaning watch parts. Another substitute for hexane would be TCE.
Hi Alex, you had a neat trick on using a syringe to contain and dispense 9010. So obviously I bought some syringes on Amazon. Two sizes - a very thin 1 ml one (for insulin shots) and a slightly bigger 3ml one. My problem is that it's impossible to pull any oil into the syringe! It feels like it's too thick. I even tried pulling the plunger out and pouring a little 9010 in from the top, but then I face a different problem. Too thick to be able to push the plunger down! How were you able to do this? Any other tricks would be appreciated. Thanks!
You need syringes with a blunt tip. Not the kind for giving shots.
Thank-you very much!
You got it Bruno
For cleaning balance jewels why do you prefer your hard metal tool over just regular pegwood, the same as you'd use on all the other jewels?
Granted it is tricky to sharpen pegweed to the fine point needed, and then guide that into the jewel hole without breaking the tip, but once inside the wood will compress into the correct shape and will clean all of the sidewalls of the hole. Your metal tool will likely just contact the rim of the jewel hole and wont have the same abrasive cleaning action deeper down in its sidewalls.
First I have never seen a way to sharpen a piece of peg wood to 0.03 mm. The tool i use is made from a balance staff and can be selected to just fit inside the jewel hole.
Thanks for everything. My question is; why is it after I service a vintage watch, everything looks good dial up, excellent amplitude, rate, beat error but when I flip it dial down or any other positions, the rate jumps to over + or - 100 seconds per day & the amplitude & beat error jumps all over the place. Thank you.
Good question! If this is happening all the time then you need to look at your entire servicing procedure. When amplitude and rates vary in the horizontal positions there are about 25 different things that can cause this starting at the barrel and going all the way to the balance.
I'm finding a very weird thing with new endstones i'm scavenging off nh35 movements. They're so smooth oil doesn't wick to them like on older ones from my old 7s26 movements. I have to oil them SEVERAL times to get enough oil on the endstone to make a correct size bead whereas with the older ones the oil just transfers to it as you would expect.
I don't know if seiko has upped their game polishing these jewels to a higher degree or what. It's not a big deal but it's definitely strange and annoying. As always thanks for the video.
Interesting, I'll have to look into that.
thanks for you nice inform 👍
Welcome and thank you for being here
Would it not be appropriate to use pegwood in this instance?
There are a couple issues with pegwood in this case. How to hold the chaton and peg it without it flying off and how how do you sharpen the pegwood so the tip is less than a 1/10 of a mm. If you can do that, go for it.😊
Hi please teach how to working by staking tool
Thank you
What task in particular are you trying to learn?
Good morning
Please learn replacing broken balance staff and fitting new balance staff
And fitting hairspring on staff
the big movement piece on my seiko 5 automatic watch gets stuck sometimes and i don't know how to fix it. should i use a lubricating oil and if so which one.
I am not sure what part you are referring to. Are you talking about the rotor?
@@watchrepairtutorials on the seiko 7s26a there is a big semi circle shape that spin around to give the watch power but on my watch it gets jammed so i have to manually shake the watch for it to get unjammed. i hear lubricant oil could work but i don't know which one to use.
@@watchrepairtutorials I just checked and it is the rotor piece that gets stuck.
@@CR7_Kaka Using lubricant on a rotor is a bit tricky because it's not as simple as just applying oil. In most cases, if the rotor is sticking, it could be due to dirt, wear, or a misalignment in the rotor's pivot or bearing, rather than just needing lubrication. Over-oiling or using the wrong lubricant can actually cause more problems.
Here’s what I suggest:
Check for visible dirt or debris on or around the rotor and clean the area carefully if needed.
Avoid over-lubrication. The rotor pivot and bearing usually require minimal oil. For the 7S26A movement, you can use a small amount of Moebius 9010 oil on the rotor pivot. Just a tiny drop is enough.
If the issue persists, the rotor could be misaligned or the bearing could be worn, and it might need a deeper cleaning or adjustment, which could require a service from a professional.
I hope this helps!
Alex, would 91% IPA suffice?. Just thought I would ask. Does that 8% less than 99% make that much of a difference?.
No. Too much water for a final rinse. 99% or you run the risk of rust.
Hi Alex, can you please tell me where to get one of those syringe cases? Did you make it yourself? I plan on becoming one of your apprentices soon... actually a Journeyman because I want a copy of your book and the other extras.
I believe that box originally had a screwdriver set inside. Heck any little box of work.
@@watchrepairtutorials Thanks Alex, I found one that will work, but yours is way cool with those wood dividers! LOL 🙂
I have a doubt. I serviced a hmt/citizen 21J movement recently, but no matter how much i clean and properly lubricant the movement, the beat error is 5 to 6 and there are dot marks all over the timegrapher. Any tips?
Yes, you need to find the line of center so that the impulse jewel is center in it.
If you are referring to a beat error if 0.5 ms that is not an issue to worry about.
If it 5.0 ms that is an issue that needs to be corrected before anything else can happen.
Perfect lubrication will not correct the beat error
@@watchrepairtutorials how to do that? The stud holder is fixed in this Watch
@@ajishvk2334 you have to turn the collet on the balance wheel.
@@watchrepairtutorials thank you so much. I never thought someone in your level will help me out. 🙏🏿
But did you hold your breath while oiling the stones? 😂. I did this for the first time the other day and it’s amazing how damn shaky I am under a microscope. I also held my breath so much, I thought I was gonna pass out. Thanks for your videos, I serviced my first pocket watch the other day because of you.
Wow, thanks for sharing that. It's why I do what I do.
I hear the vidio I like the way you explain,but doing every thing exactly is not easy for me.something remains..Thanks
It just takes practice Itzhac, practice.
Sorry can you suggest a good microscope?
Watch this, The One Tool That Will Make You a Better Watchmaker
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What time is is guy?
Hammer time
Why is there so many watches that are wound tight and how to fix them
In many cases, the click is stuck or even the crown wheel.