Thanks for the video, got a bet and win 250 recently that wouldn’t run, I cleaned the Carb and changed the gas and filter. With throttle it runs without hesitation but has zero idle
It sounds like the pilot jet you could turn the idle up but more than likely the pilot jet is clogged and that's why it won't idle that's hard to clean on these carburetors is that passage is very small and I found that passed a certain point it's better to replace the carburetor with a brand new one when it comes to aftermarket you have to modify stuff because aftermarket carburetors don't fit the air intake boot but if you do get an aftermarket carb it's a lot cheaper.
Thanks sdbrowserli that's a common mistake to think that the carb can be accessed for cleaning or removal through that nice little hatch. If only life could be so good. lol.
Hi Paul, thanks for this helpful video. Aside from this topic, I was wondering if you can suggest,help or upload a video on how to check-test the parts for Kymco Grand Dink such as stator, ignition coil, carb, starter relay so I can find out the error . i have a 2006 Grand Dink 250 and I am trying find the problem of why the engine doesnt start even though I hear the clicking(firing) sound when turning the ignition on. Maintenance manual is not very helpful for testing these parts.... Thanks in advance.
+Mehmet Fz6r I don't have any videos but I do have some useful tips. 1. It is rather doubtful that the stator has gone out. The easiest way to test is start the scooter and put a volt meter on the battery and scooter on center stand. Standard automotive values should be indicated by the multimeter which would be 12.8 volts up to ~14 at idle. When revving the motor 13.8 to 14.2v or so. My scooter has 18K miles and the stator works perfect. Never blown a stator on any scooter or motorcycle I have ever owned. This also tests the regulator. Over 14.5v say 18 or 20v+ and blown headlight etc indicates the regulator is bad. One part that I have issues with is the left hand brake brake light switch. It gets corroded. Test is simple: put key in and turn to start, kick stand up, run switch on. Hit left brake lever (rear brake) and the rear brake light should come on. If it does not your switch is bad and needs to be cleaned or ideally replaced it costs $20. If the rear brake light switch is not working the motor will still turn over but won't start. To verify the scooter is on and the kickstand up switch is ok and the run switch you can unplug the spark plug wire and leave it next to the motor. turn the engine over and you should see a and hear a strong spark - watch your hands to avoid shock. If no spark you must test individual ignition components. If the battery is charged the scooter will still start even if the stator does not work! However, the battery will run down. Also, if the battery gets weak or is old the motor won't spin fast enough to start - best method jumper cables to a car to insure full power and rule out the battery. Good luck, report results.
+Paul C ,Thanks for the quick reply... Since I can not start the scooter due to a problem or problems( which I am diagnosing step by step) , I can not do the test for the stator. However, I will consider that stator is working fine and will be one of the last thing to check... All the electrical parts (indicator, headlight, odometer ) are working fine. I replaced the regulator earlier so that should be fine.... As you said that left hand break, break light switch could be a problem . Hoping that the problem comes from the switch preventing it to start. I will follow the testing method on the spark plugs as well.. What I did recently was to check all the cables in the wire harness make sure that all wires are in good connection and there is no short circuit... Well , before replacing the wire connectors with the good one, I would hear nothing when even turning the ignition on from the motor, but now i can hear the ignition sound but motor doesnt start yet. I feel like the path i am following will give me good results. I will be updating you for each progress I make... Thanks again Paul...
Thanks, I made these carb cleaning videos because most videos present the information in bits and pieces so it is hard to get a complete picture and identify the problems and solutions in a straight forward way.
I'm about to dig in. I just picked up a GV that has been sitting for 2 years and wont start. I figure one of the things I'll do before trying to get it running is clean the carb. At 1:50 you say "don't over disassemble" but then you urge caution with the TPS and then at 3:14 you show the pilot jets out. I guess I'm confused. For a "dont over disassemble", do I just remove the 30mm and 50mm clamps then spray some carb cleaner and put it back together or do I do all the steps you show?
Brian, at a minimum you should remove the pilot jet and main jet for cleaning just as the video shows. You don't need to drill out the pilot jet passage on the first try. By not over disassembling I am referring a little bit more to the linkage can throttle cables which do not need to be removed to perform a thorough cleaning of the Jets. Also, as I mention in the video it is common for people to remove the top two screws on the metal cap above the diaphragm but there is actually nothing to clean up there.
Thanks, you did a great job here. Ive been working on my own motorcycles since 1977 and feel fairly confident performing most "regular joe" maintenance repairs and having videos like this one to reference is very helpful. I belong to 2-3 different forums for motorcycles and DIY vids as clear and simple as yours are hard to come by, THANKS! Im chasing what I think is a vaccum leak on my new to me 2004 Grand Vista with 4k on it. The P.O. seems to have a fairly good job of taking care of it but it has trouble accelerating beyond 5 thou rpms. When I plug/pinch off the short tube coming off the top left of the carb it will momentarily rev all the way up, so Im guessing that what is missing is a hose connection somewhere. Phil
Thanks Phil. This series of videos took a lot of time and effort to get them short, clear, accurate. How is your scoot coming along? I road my 2005 GV250 over a hundred miles today with a local scooter club.
That little short hose with one in looks like it was cut at a 45 degree angle is supposed to be open I believe the purpose is to allow air to enter the top of the carburetor so as the float biwl goes down as gas is being used the air is able to fill the void left from the falling liquid.
20K on her. I checked the belt last week, I'm guessing it was changed. It's really not worn out enough to be replaced. I'll probably check the carb next. What I'm really needing is a fresh set of tires ASAP lol
I like the video! I'm having some trouble with my Hyosung Kasea Sense 50cc Moped. Earlier I made the throttle cable come loose and got that hooked up and fixed, but I think I must have bumped a hose or something because the cable moves the throttle at the carb but my moped doesnt rev up. It sits there on idle. I fiddled around with it and found a hose that I don't know where it goes (which is a problem) that I think is the vacuum hose. If I let it suck in air, the moped starts to rev up, but if you pinch it or put your thumb over it, it idles. Does this hose hook up to the carb somewhere or the throttle? I tried hooking it up to the cock comp but then it just idles even when I move the throttle. Sorry for the long paragraph. I bought this moped for $250 and I'm 15 and can't figure it out. Just came across your video while researching it
Sorry I just saw your message now. When you remove the hose and cause a vacuum leak the motor will rev up that's normal. The hose should be reinstalled. It sounds like the throttle cable is not clamped properly so it's not actually opening the door to the carburetor. Test the theory by manually moving the carburetor while the engine is running if it rubs up then you found the problem
@@ChrisBair-y4e the first thing to realize is this is not like most generic scooters that range from 50 cc to 150 cc those are basically using a generic carburetor from the factory. The only one that will fit the scooter is an OEM carburetor and you’ll have to order that from Kimco and it’s not cheap. It’s around $250 a friend of mine that had continuous problems with his scooter ordered one directly from Kymco and it’s solved all the problems and worked perfectly when it comes to using a generic carburetor you’re gonna have to modify the airbox and it’s not easy because there’s not that much room under the seat. I think you would have to use a plastic or metal extension tube and then mount a filter on the end of that.
Sorry, I don’t think I completely understood your question but I think I do now. Most generic carburetors use a single throttle connection and that’s all that’s needed. That will pull the carburetor open and the spring will cause it to close but this style many motorcycles use two cables. When you twist, the throttle one cable causes it to open up, and when you twist, the throttle shot, the second cable forces the carburetor to close so in the event that the spring didn’t work, you would be able to twist the throttle in the opposite direction and force it to close, generic carburetors don’t do this. They just rely on the spring to close the carburetor.
findyoursky you're welcome what year is your GV and how long have you had it? I still have mine and and now has 23000 miles on it and still running great.
Paul C wow you have been doing a good job to keep it going. mine was 2009. I had it for slightly over 2 years. I am looking for a way to drain gas (and other fluid) so I can ship it over states with me. Do you have any related video?
www.kymcousa.com/admin/dealeronly/ownerman/onroad/GrandVista250.pdf that is a link to the manual. Rewatch the video to see how to access the drain screw on the bottom of the carb. Remove seat, loosen the carburetor clamps and rotate the carburetor to access the screw better, be sure to retighten it after draining it.
Thanks for the video, got a bet and win 250 recently that wouldn’t run, I cleaned the Carb and changed the gas and filter. With throttle it runs without hesitation but has zero idle
It sounds like the pilot jet you could turn the idle up but more than likely the pilot jet is clogged and that's why it won't idle that's hard to clean on these carburetors is that passage is very small and I found that passed a certain point it's better to replace the carburetor with a brand new one when it comes to aftermarket you have to modify stuff because aftermarket carburetors don't fit the air intake boot but if you do get an aftermarket carb it's a lot cheaper.
Dang, I was trying to remove my carb through the little window above the carb until I saw that the whole pan comes out ! What a great video, thanks
Thanks sdbrowserli that's a common mistake to think that the carb can be accessed for cleaning or removal through that nice little hatch. If only life could be so good. lol.
Hi Paul, thanks for this helpful video. Aside from this topic, I was wondering if you can suggest,help or upload a video on how to check-test the parts for Kymco Grand Dink such as stator, ignition coil, carb, starter relay so I can find out the error . i have a 2006 Grand Dink 250 and I am trying find the problem of why the engine doesnt start even though I hear the clicking(firing) sound when turning the ignition on. Maintenance manual is not very helpful for testing these parts.... Thanks in advance.
+Mehmet Fz6r I don't have any videos but I do have some useful tips. 1. It is rather doubtful that the stator has gone out. The easiest way to test is start the scooter and put a volt meter on the battery and scooter on center stand. Standard automotive values should be indicated by the multimeter which would be 12.8 volts up to ~14 at idle. When revving the motor 13.8 to 14.2v or so. My scooter has 18K miles and the stator works perfect. Never blown a stator on any scooter or motorcycle I have ever owned. This also tests the regulator. Over 14.5v say 18 or 20v+ and blown headlight etc indicates the regulator is bad. One part that I have issues with is the left hand brake brake light switch. It gets corroded. Test is simple: put key in and turn to start, kick stand up, run switch on. Hit left brake lever (rear brake) and the rear brake light should come on. If it does not your switch is bad and needs to be cleaned or ideally replaced it costs $20. If the rear brake light switch is not working the motor will still turn over but won't start. To verify the scooter is on and the kickstand up switch is ok and the run switch you can unplug the spark plug wire and leave it next to the motor. turn the engine over and you should see a and hear a strong spark - watch your hands to avoid shock. If no spark you must test individual ignition components. If the battery is charged the scooter will still start even if the stator does not work! However, the battery will run down. Also, if the battery gets weak or is old the motor won't spin fast enough to start - best method jumper cables to a car to insure full power and rule out the battery. Good luck, report results.
+Paul C ,Thanks for the quick reply... Since I can not start the scooter due to a problem or problems( which I am diagnosing step by step) , I can not do the test for the stator. However, I will consider that stator is working fine and will be one of the last thing to check... All the electrical parts (indicator, headlight, odometer ) are working fine. I replaced the regulator earlier so that should be fine.... As you said that left hand break, break light switch could be a problem . Hoping that the problem comes from the switch preventing it to start. I will follow the testing method on the spark plugs as well.. What I did recently was to check all the cables in the wire harness make sure that all wires are in good connection and there is no short circuit... Well , before replacing the wire connectors with the good one, I would hear nothing when even turning the ignition on from the motor, but now i can hear the ignition sound but motor doesnt start yet. I feel like the path i am following will give me good results.
I will be updating you for each progress I make... Thanks again Paul...
That sounds great good luck with your scooter.
Thanks Paul you're a lifesaver very simple straight to the point no gobbledygook
Thanks, I made these carb cleaning videos because most videos present the information in bits and pieces so it is hard to get a complete picture and identify the problems and solutions in a straight forward way.
I'm about to dig in. I just picked up a GV that has been sitting for 2 years and wont start. I figure one of the things I'll do before trying to get it running is clean the carb. At 1:50 you say "don't over disassemble" but then you urge caution with the TPS and then at 3:14 you show the pilot jets out. I guess I'm confused. For a "dont over disassemble", do I just remove the 30mm and 50mm clamps then spray some carb cleaner and put it back together or do I do all the steps you show?
Brian, at a minimum you should remove the pilot jet and main jet for cleaning just as the video shows. You don't need to drill out the pilot jet passage on the first try. By not over disassembling I am referring a little bit more to the linkage can throttle cables which do not need to be removed to perform a thorough cleaning of the Jets. Also, as I mention in the video it is common for people to remove the top two screws on the metal cap above the diaphragm but there is actually nothing to clean up there.
Hola una consulta cómo puedo remplazar el cebador automático de arranque en frío que no lo consigo
Thanks, you did a great job here.
Ive been working on my own motorcycles since 1977 and feel fairly confident performing most "regular joe" maintenance repairs and having videos like this one to reference is very helpful.
I belong to 2-3 different forums for motorcycles and DIY vids as clear and simple as yours are hard to come by, THANKS!
Im chasing what I think is a vaccum leak on my new to me 2004 Grand Vista with 4k on it. The P.O. seems to have a fairly good job of taking care of it but it has trouble accelerating beyond 5 thou rpms.
When I plug/pinch off the short tube coming off the top left of the carb it will momentarily rev all the way up, so Im guessing that what is missing is a hose connection somewhere.
Phil
Thanks Phil. This series of videos took a lot of time and effort to get them short, clear, accurate. How is your scoot coming along? I road my 2005 GV250 over a hundred miles today with a local scooter club.
That little short hose with one in looks like it was cut at a 45 degree angle is supposed to be open I believe the purpose is to allow air to enter the top of the carburetor so as the float biwl goes down as gas is being used the air is able to fill the void left from the falling liquid.
Great videos. I always come to your videos to help me with my GV.
Keep up the great work!
mastaj666 Thanks mastaj. How many miles on your scoot?
20K on her. I checked the belt last week, I'm guessing it was changed. It's really not worn out enough to be replaced. I'll probably check the carb next. What I'm really needing is a fresh set of tires ASAP lol
mastaj666 Thanks for the info.
Hey i also have one myn idel but won't rev up it misfire if i rev up
It sounds like the carburetor for sure need to give it a good cleaning
I like the video! I'm having some trouble with my Hyosung Kasea Sense 50cc Moped. Earlier I made the throttle cable come loose and got that hooked up and fixed, but I think I must have bumped a hose or something because the cable moves the throttle at the carb but my moped doesnt rev up. It sits there on idle. I fiddled around with it and found a hose that I don't know where it goes (which is a problem) that I think is the vacuum hose. If I let it suck in air, the moped starts to rev up, but if you pinch it or put your thumb over it, it idles. Does this hose hook up to the carb somewhere or the throttle? I tried hooking it up to the cock comp but then it just idles even when I move the throttle. Sorry for the long paragraph. I bought this moped for $250 and I'm 15 and can't figure it out. Just came across your video while researching it
Kyle Kubat Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Sorry I just saw your message now. When you remove the hose and cause a vacuum leak the motor will rev up that's normal. The hose should be reinstalled. It sounds like the throttle cable is not clamped properly so it's not actually opening the door to the carburetor. Test the theory by manually moving the carburetor while the engine is running if it rubs up then you found the problem
I had a client of my dads fix it. The throttle cable wasn't hooked up properly. Thanks for the info tho!
Good it's fixed!
Why is the replacement carburetor different from the original it has no way to install the throttle
I can't find a carburetor that has it. Where can I buy the right carburetor
@@ChrisBair-y4e the first thing to realize is this is not like most generic scooters that range from 50 cc to 150 cc those are basically using a generic carburetor from the factory. The only one that will fit the scooter is an OEM carburetor and you’ll have to order that from Kimco and it’s not cheap. It’s around $250 a friend of mine that had continuous problems with his scooter ordered one directly from Kymco and it’s solved all the problems and worked perfectly when it comes to using a generic carburetor you’re gonna have to modify the airbox and it’s not easy because there’s not that much room under the seat. I think you would have to use a plastic or metal extension tube and then mount a filter on the end of that.
Sorry, I don’t think I completely understood your question but I think I do now. Most generic carburetors use a single throttle connection and that’s all that’s needed. That will pull the carburetor open and the spring will cause it to close but this style many motorcycles use two cables. When you twist, the throttle one cable causes it to open up, and when you twist, the throttle shot, the second cable forces the carburetor to close so in the event that the spring didn’t work, you would be able to twist the throttle in the opposite direction and force it to close, generic carburetors don’t do this. They just rely on the spring to close the carburetor.
Falto desmontar el diafragma
"Missing disassembly of the diaphragm" Watch / Mira: th-cam.com/video/ig0qHhdxJFE/w-d-xo.html
No entiendes inglés, por eso preguntas esto. Bien claro dijo porque no lo hacía.
Thanks for the video. Help me take off the seat on my gv
findyoursky you're welcome what year is your GV and how long have you had it? I still have mine and and now has 23000 miles on it and still running great.
Paul C wow you have been doing a good job to keep it going. mine was 2009. I had it for slightly over 2 years. I am looking for a way to drain gas (and other fluid) so I can ship it over states with me. Do you have any related video?
www.kymcousa.com/admin/dealeronly/ownerman/onroad/GrandVista250.pdf that is a link to the manual. Rewatch the video to see how to access the drain screw on the bottom of the carb. Remove seat, loosen the carburetor clamps and rotate the carburetor to access the screw better, be sure to retighten it after draining it.
Big pro