Toprope Solo Devices - What do I use and why?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2025
- What devices do I use for toprope soloing? For single pitch and for multi pitch I use different systems.
Here I am talking about some experience and dangers of the devices. Make sure to visit my channel for more climbing related videos. I do a lot of rope solo climbing on rock and ice.
At 7:20 you say "with the RollNLock" but you meant "with the Ropeman II". Thanks for this update!
Excellent video! I enjoyed watching your earlier videos too. Even though my German isn’t good enough to listen, what you were doing said everything. I appreciate you doing videos over with updates in English though.
If you're using a neck band, for safety I'd recommend attaching with an elastic band that will break if the device gets trapped.
Tried the Petzl Shunt? I used this both on double rope and single rope backed up with the CT RollNLock. Both slides easily and serves me well. Rappelling is easy since the Shunt is a mechanic Prusik. I disengage the RollNLock and add a ATC for rappelling safely down for another go🙂
I don’t have any experience with rope solo, but I have experimented with a rollnlock as an ascender, what I fould was that if the rope is weighted underneath (e.g. a foot ascender, the rollnlock wouldn't engage. Probably not something relevant to your use, but something to keep in mind. Check out Richard Mumford on TH-cam, he has done a lot of testing in different configurations with the rollnlock, mainly in tree climbing scenarios, but I'm sure you'll still find good info there.
Also, the CT simple ascender is like the basic, but with the additional hole. Good ascender, I have one.
The microtraxion has about the same amount of friction as a rollnlock, but is way more efficient at hauling.
Thank you for the feedback, dude. Yeah, I had the same issue when ascending with the RollNLock. Maybe I will just order a Microtraxion 🤔
@@ripperkon One never has enough gear...
Have you ever considered using a rope access backup device? We use the ISC Rocker at work, I can recommend that, but in combination with something that locks up right away, or the camp goblin, you can lock that so it only allows ascent, a colleague of mine uses that.
@@raphaelbeinhauer9242 Does the microtraxion grab rope even if cam is open when rappelling? I was thinking of getting rollnlock since the cam can stay open so I can rappel without detaching it from rope, I wonder if the microtraxion teeth would accidently grab rope even when open? Because I see the open position of microtraxion isn't completely clear from the rope trajectory, only clear when used as pulley. If not I'll get microtraxion or elderid spoc since it's cheaper.
@@ripperkon I'm thinking of micro or edelrid spoc since it's cheaper than rollnlock but I'm scared the sharp teeth will still grab rope even when cam is in 'open' position whilst rappelling. With Rollnlock open position, the cam is completely opposite the rope and has no teeth so there's no chance of accidental rope grab.
Btw your TR solo videos is the most concise I've seen on TH-cam, great job!
@@ron9511 late reply, but in my experience the micro trax does not slide down a rope well even when disengaged, the teeth can still catch.
Excellent... Thank you..
How do you multipitch top rope solo? After climbing the first pitch how do you set the rope on top of the second pitch? I have done multipitch top rope solos but start at the top pitch, rappel, climb up, switch from tied in ropes to standard rappel set up, rappel, setup for next pitch and repeat. Dont have to pull the rope up though, just down.
What diameter rope is this again?
I just got the Rollnlock and was trying to get the rope to angle through like you demonstrated but couldn’t manage to do so. I have a 9.8 mm. Then took test falls at the bottom of a climb and no issues... *however, once I got to the TOP and the rope was tight and angled to the side toward myself, I lifted the device to engage it and it slid back down several times. So glad I was on a backup ☠️
Interestingly I also saw on a mountain project forum about TRS w the Rollnlock that there was an instance of someone being caught multiple times on the Rollnlock but then having it fail *at the top* and falling to the bottom (he did not have a backup). Probably the angle issue I experienced and you had shown.
That said, for this reason I fully support the idea of using a backup device that functions altogether differently rather than 2 Rollnlocks.
Thanks for this information. It’s been extremely helpful in safety while I’ve been considering my setup. Cheers!
Thank you dude for the feedback.
This one is a 9,1mm rope by maxim ropes.
Nice tips and good video keep it up 👍 bro 👊👊
I just ordered a roll n lock and micro traxion a couple weeks ago. I think the rating with the 4kn is to what extent the device will hold onto a static load until it begins slipping. The strength of the device itself is around 20kn.
And how is the friction on the rope compared between these two?
Yes, I am sure. 4kn also should be totally fine for toprope solo.
@@ripperkon this is from petzl's website and they still recommend using the microtraxion as a rope soloing device. Maximum working load - pulley: 2,5 x 2 = 5 kN
Maximum working load - rope clamp: 2,5 kN
with the new basic and his single hole designed, carabiner can interact with the cam... climbing technology still make something simillar to the old basic (didn't try this version). I don't think roll n lock is weaker than the micro or the jumar, the weakest device here is the ropeman! with those cam design, the only way to get better strength is to use bigger diameter of rope, or to change the design (for example the microscender is way stronger due to the curved interface)
But why is the RollNLock then only for 400kg?
Or did I get this wrong? 🤔 I feel safer with the ropeman2.
@@ripperkon I was not clear, ropeman is probably more "catchy" for sure (wich is maybe the most important), and rollnlock is maybe not more stronger than 4kn, , but ropeman is weaker :p, on rollnlock instructions they consider fall factor under 1ok, while ropeman cut the sheat way before! demo arround 3min: th-cam.com/video/DpWKrghSLao/w-d-xo.html (real life fall is less terrible than those lab rigid test! but sheath cut at 0,25 it's really low!), 4kn is stamped on most ascenders because EN567 and EN 12841 required these value, not more, the strength is different depending of the rope diameter, and rope type, some data for illustrating this: www.petzl.com/FR/fr/Sport/Tests-statiques?ProductName=MICRO-TRAXION www.petzl.com/FR/fr/Sport/Tests-sur-MICRO-TRAXION-et-cordelettes-Dyneema-de-diametre-inferieur-a-8-mm?ProductName=MICRO-TRAXION storrick.cnc.net/VerticalDevicesPage/Ascender/AscenderImages/HandleECStampedImages/Scan0127e.jpg 4kn it way enough for top rope solo, but this is good to keep in mind the limitations of the system
MrHassancehef But that’s the ropeman and not ropeman 2. The older one has got „sharp edges“. Seems like the problem of cutting the sheat is more unlikely on ropeman 2.
I am not sure if I said ropeman 2 in the video. But I use the 2 not the other one. Also because the ropeman 2 works with thinner ropes.
MrHassancehef thank you for the links and addition 💪🏻
You can replace all of this with that style carabineer and a mini Trax. That's how I've been climbing and I've taken falls above the device multiple times. Do you know of any other top rope solo devices other then a Grigri or other progress capture devices
Thanks
Great video!
What are the products used in this video? I dont see them typed out or linked
I'm looking for a device that you can climb up with and then repel with but doesn't require me to pull in while I'm climbing
Check my new video with the Taz lov3 ;)
Those devices will shear your rope sheath at only 6-8 KN, this is why they are NOT belay devices
When top rope soloing your falls should never be anywhere near 6kN. 6kN is a VERY heavy fall. You need to be a large male falling hard with not much rope in the system to reach those figures. Most TRS falls are measured in cm/inches, not metres/yards.
You really should use two Carabiners one for each because you can try load one and still break it because the gate has no strength opposed to the spine
Thank you.
This is why i use a steel carabiner in that setup.
Forces will in no case be high enough to break it.
Servus!
Du ich hätt eine Frage: Du hast doch beschrieben, dass du zwischen durch aufs Roll N Lock umgesattelt hast, um das Seil zu schonen.
Ich war jetzt mit Petzl in Kontakt und die meinten doch tatsächlich, verzahnte Geräte würden schneller greifen und seien daher sehr Seilschonend.... Was hältst du davon?
Ich würd wahrscheinlich als Setup das Camp lift als erstes System (Seilschonend) und das Petzl Ascension oder das Micro Traxion als Backup nehmen...
Gings laut Petzl sollt ich aber Ascension - Micro Trax einsetzen...
Was würdest du favourisieren von meinen Ideen? (Ropeman wirds wohl nicht werden)
LG
Schau dir mal das Petzl Rescucender an.
Das nutze ich als Hauptsicherung, ich bin sehr zufrieden, da sich das gerät leicht am Seil hoch bewegt und doch stark blockiert.
@@NasdaqNova Bin mit meinem Setup sehr zufrieden, camp lift als erstes und microtrax als zweites, das setup am doppelstrang und das traxion am dual connect adjust verlängert
Bin mit dem setup sehr oft unterwegs und hab so auch schon paar 7a weggehaun
Rescuecender is sicher sehr cool, hab schon davon gelesen, dass der auch recht seilschonend sein soll
We also tried out a lot in rope soloing and our preferred setup is with PETZL GriGri. The reason herefor is, that you can easily rappel down in any situation. With your setups this is not possible!
True. But I don’t like how bad the grigri feeds the rope in that case.
But maybe for harder climbs where I need to redo a move more often, I would also think about using the grigri.
@@ripperkon the "trick" is to use it with a thinner rope. You have to try a little bit to set up the best system. But don't forget to use stopper knots for backup. Cheers and safe climbing!
just use non toothed back up device like camp lift for both main and back up, i already use it and it work smooth like baby butt cheek
You mean the Goblin? Sadly it only works for 10-11mm Ropes.
@@ripperkon no, camp lift min 8 mm max 13 mm
yulianto rahardjo oh, I didn’t know that one. Thank you, I will have a look.
hello, ever used the Camp Goblin?
No. Sadly does only work for 10-11mm Ropes.
@@ripperkon i just ordered mine and was curious if you have used it. thanks for the reply, and for the videos, i find them usefull
Thank you. Feel free to tell me about your experience with it 😇
@@ripperkon hello, i got my device, and finally tested it with 10 mm dinamic rope...it works perfectly. i just need to change my chest harness. so..ok :)
could you do a setup with one Grigri and a Trax (one above the other) for a similar backup system.
but obviously with the grigri you have the lever action in order to absail down if needed.
Can I use carabiners instead of karabyeners?
I am not sure. I guess it depends on how ungerman they are.
👍💯
This system has way too many thinks going on