@0:52 I think the plug is for "weather proof" power outlets that have a rubber sealing for these big plugs. Tell us when your cat starts the revolution! We will follow him/her without hesitation 😻
@@pe1dnn even old bug zappers were that way. You could pick up a new bug zapper for $19.99. It had two tubes in it. If one went out, a replacement was $18.99. I call that the bug zapper theory. When parts for something cost almost as much as the original product, if not just as much, or more in some cases. I agree with the original commenter. How can something be environmentally friendly if it's designed to be thrown away after a single use? They would rather just take more of your money and have you buy a brand new product than spend less repairing what you have.
The plug is larger because it can be "waterproof" when plugged into a outdoor socket. IP44 is the bare minimum for electronics used outside in the rain.
I have one of the round-style zappers. Mine came with a proper fluorescent tube, not an led one. Still working after a few years in service. I just use it throughout summer.
Before LED lights I had an 8W flurescent in the chicken coop, it was a recycled IP65 emergency light retrofitted with an electromagnetic ballast and in summer when the temperature approached 30 ºC it turned on without the need for a starter but in winter around 0 ºC it needed at least 3 or 4 preheat cycles and the use of a 4-22W starter, a 4-125W "universal" starter with so little consumption would open before the filaments could glow. [EDIT] Where I live voltage is almost spot on at 230V during the day but at nights can go up to 240-245V
I got a rechargeable one with leds on the top. Its the same as those tennis racket type zappers. It works. But it cost 10 euros To much... but my dad wanted it. If he's happy, I'm happy 😊
Would it be possible to add a hit counter somehow? A small display that can tell approximately how many insects it has encountered. Would be useful if you for instance turn it on in a bedroom to kill mosquitos before you go to bed. Sometimes you know that there was a mosquito in the room but you don't know if the lamp has caught it or not. Maybe by measuring changes in voltage, current or resistance with a micro controller or single board computer? If it detects significent changes increment the counter by one and wait until the values stabilize before looking for changes again? it would be nice if the modification is a simple and generic as possible so it is easy to build and works on as many insect lamps as possible.✌️
Thanks, yes I think so too😁. It could report hits to a web server additionally. Then you can turn on the mosquito lamp in the bedroom, leave and close the door and follow the results on the phone. Maybe graph of hits per minute. But a counter is a good start.
The added stuff could be hidden inside the lamp or outside depending on how much available space there is. In the lamp in the video it could possibly fit inside. The computing board could be a Raspberry Pi or an Arduino or something else running on power from the mains coming into the lamp using a 230V AC to 5V DC conversion board or a board from a 2A USB phone charger. The display could be an LCD using I2C, only 4 cables connected to the GPIO pins of the computing board. The data from the lamp circuit could be sent in to the computing board through its GPIO pins. The big question is where in the lamp circuit it is optimal to read and how. The current limiting series resistors at 10:43 has 6,5V AC when grid is not loaded and 143V AC when shorted, possible read point, but how to make it readable for the computing board? And some lamps maybe don't have this. Would be nice if the setup was applicable to most bug lamps you'll find in the nearest supermarket. The grid is an open circuit when no insect is present and a closed circuit when one is. Could read this somehow, but that part of the lamp circuit has very high voltage, in this lamp 975V. There is also some safety discharging resistors that seems to be common in this part, seen at 11:10, maybe by measuring current changes on these. I guess it should drop if an insect is present. Or maybe by not entering the lamp inner circuit at all, just measure the watts of the whole lamp. If it changes, then an insect is there. 😁
@@dotpointer > Or maybe by not entering the lamp inner circuit at all, just measure the watts of the whole lamp. If it changes, then an insect is there. 😁 Yes, that is the easiest. I think a wemos D1 mini (ESP8266) Is perfect for this due to wifi + gpio + small size and consumption, plus short boot time.
I have one, and it also starts instantly. However, I distinctly remember that the first time I used it, it took a few flickers. I'm guessing as the tube gets older, and degrades, or in extremely cold environments the voltage required to start the tube will be above the mains line voltage. In which case the starter can take over by heating the filaments and reducing the requires start voltage. Still... I wonder if a 15w incandescent lamp in series would have done a better job as a current limiting device... As for the little beads in the tube, it's mercury amalgm. Usually tubes don't have anywhere near as much as this. However, being that it's purpose is to produce UV light, and the light emitted by mercury vapor is UV, it makes sense to use slightly more. All of the harmful UVC will be blocked by the glass. But the UVA will pass straight through.
In a week, the plastic would become so brittle, that it will fall apart under its own weight. UV loves munching on plastics. That's if the bulb lasts that long.
I have tried those small units and found they do not work very well, ended up buying a number of 35 watt twin tube units from Amazon. They work so well that when a fly goes into one there is report like a pistol shot an the fly disappears with bits often blown across the room, most satisfying when something like a wasp gets in and after the first pop there is a sizzling sound for a good few seconds..
I bought same zapper about two years ago. Tube failed, tried to find UV-tube for it, tube was more expensive than whole machine and cannot buy it from EU!! Now I bought "same" zapper from Lidl but it was rechargeable 18650 UV-Led one. :(
That's a really nice cord - a rubber one 15:38 - h05rn-f OTOH, the plastic is ABS (by the looks of it). ABS is UV unstable, which means it would crumble (and ofgas)
My diy modified electric fly zapper has much more power than this thing. I replaced the HV-cap by 330 nF/2000V, inserted a better switching transistor and added a li-ion battery instead of 2x1,5V alcaline. It generates nearly 2000V and gives a shock power of 2/3 Joule - which still isn't much but small moskitos sometimes even explode! ;-)
@@309electronics5 this would definetly sparc at the distance of the wire. For 15 kV you need a distance of at least 15 mm between the wires, and you need expensive caps that would be very big....
I find it quite pathetic saying "environment friendly" on the packaging but simultaneously stating that the entire device should be thrown away when the lamp fails, whereas it could easily be replaced by anybody knowing how to use a screwdriver. Maybe they are just legally required to do so by some liability obligations, but cheap out on building it in a way that the lamp could actually be replaced more easily (and "legally"), probably without needing a screwdriver...
They're afraid of somebody trying to replace the lamp, getting a shock and suing them. Environment friendly is just a fashionable word that every product has to have on it.
Pamatuju si, jak jsem úplně stejný kabel vyměnil u válcové lampy na opravy aut, po té, co ho kolega přejel a světlo přestalo svítit. S novým kabelem už nikdy zářivka nenastartovala, pak jsem zjistil, že ten kabel má zvláštní konstrukci žil, která se chová jako ta indukčnost 🙂 Tipuju, že tady to bude to samé. I remember old case when i replaced simmilar looking power cable on tubular lamp for car repairs - it never lit up again with new power cord. Laterly, i found out that original power cord had special construction inside like really thin wire wounded around some insulator, substituting the inductor.🙂
They used to employ this type of "resistor/inductor" cord on old tube AM radios, made back in the early 1900's. The mains power cable was actually necessary for them to work and not blow up. Fred
@@DiodeGoneWild když nad tím přemýšlím,je to dost možné, fakt je, že indukčnost to muselo mít celkem malou. Každopádně po výměně za obyč už to světlo nikdy nefungovalo.
These will be very handy in the future. You could run them in an array on solar. Would just have to work out a conveyor to have you're zapped bugs drop into the deep fryer. Mmmmm, Mr. Schwab's brave new tomorrow - today. But seriously, love your work.
@DiodeGoneWild - The plug is even more special , it has limited splash protection (the ring , maybe IPx5 ) , it looks like the red German extension cords for the garden (fits to this device that is intended for Germany)
The capacitor start can double the voltage. Starter shorts,current flow through capacitor. Lets say the random time the starter open is at 325V peak, so that charged capacitor voltage is now inseries with mains.
I was kind of expecting one big multiplier with the tube tapped off that, but that would mean having real bug zapper output power. I have the transformer from an old one rated 5KV 9mA.
I think they didn't use a full bridge doubler is because the one they used has a common ground. The HV output will provide an electrostatic field around the tube. This field will help "corral" ions inside the tube to one side and cause current crowding and help ignite the tube. Try running the tube with the HV disabled.
Do a autopsy of a power supply from China! (A power supply with a 3-12V range and 60W max!) I want to explore it! Posted at: 14:52, I'm your 22nd commenter! 1 hour ago. (1,444th viewer!)
These things falling around in the tube are drops of mercury. this phenomenon can be seen quite often on cheap chinese fluorescent tubes. The reason for why the manufacturers put more mercury in the tubes is simple: with to much mercury the tube works as usual, with to less mercury it doesn´t work properly (purple glow because only the argon gas pruduces the light then).
Surprised that your answer to the claim "Environmentally friendly" was not something along the lines of "How can something that kills animals be environmentally friendly?!" 😁
You should swap the capacitors in the multiplayer. Then the capacities would be much in line with what you said. By the way i want to order some programed Atmel from you. But you do not respond to any of my mails. Did you recived them? Thanks.
Cheap crap electronics can have the most stupid marketing speak on them. One time when i bought an electric hot plate for cooking i read the instruction manual out of curiosity and in my language (Lithuanian) it said that it might emit smoke a little when powered up for the first time. But in english it had written this whole story how, when the hot plate is first powered up, it will form some sort of protective coating and in the process may smoke a little. For absolutely no reason they throw in some magic protective coating being formed.
Kinda anticlimatic the fact that putting your finger in there does almost nothing if you are not grounded... My zapper racquet seems stronger than this by the noise it makes, not gonna try!
I just removed the ground connection of my oscilloscope so I can measure everything. The case is plastic anyway, so I just have to remember only to plug one channel when doing non-ground referenced measurements.
It seems a bit overkill, forgive the pun, to use a voltage multiplier for the zapper grid. The mains through a bridge rectifier with a SMPS primary capacitor across it would be more than enough to kill a fly. 🪰⚡
@0:52 I think the plug is for "weather proof" power outlets that have a rubber sealing for these big plugs.
Tell us when your cat starts the revolution! We will follow him/her without hesitation 😻
Danyk's cat is a girl.
so he has cat as gf... cf
I'd have to leave my Budgie at home lol
"Environmentally Friendly", yet "Throw away when the tube is dead", kind of contradictory there, especially as the tube can actually be replaced... :\
A replacement tube happens to be packaged in a zapper case, most likely cheaper than just a separate new tube.
@@pe1dnn even old bug zappers were that way. You could pick up a new bug zapper for $19.99. It had two tubes in it. If one went out, a replacement was $18.99. I call that the bug zapper theory. When parts for something cost almost as much as the original product, if not just as much, or more in some cases. I agree with the original commenter. How can something be environmentally friendly if it's designed to be thrown away after a single use? They would rather just take more of your money and have you buy a brand new product than spend less repairing what you have.
Plus, those tubes contain mercury.
The plug is larger because it can be "waterproof" when plugged into a outdoor socket. IP44 is the bare minimum for electronics used outside in the rain.
yes, but lable says "for indoors use only"
you could plug it into outdoor socket while keeping device indoors
I can't imagine using insect zapper "outside in the rain". This is just super deadly...
@@DimaDeKatz It's have high voltage but current is very low.
@@DimaDeKatz meh it isn't
I have one of the round-style zappers. Mine came with a proper fluorescent tube, not an led one. Still working after a few years in service. I just use it throughout summer.
"Environmentally Friendly"
"I'd rather have it actually functional"
Some sad truth...
Yeah, of course, but it's a false dichotomy. It's possible to have both.
i have the exact same device and i was a bit to lazy to make a schematic of it lol good explained as always and big love from iraq❤
Before LED lights I had an 8W flurescent in the chicken coop, it was a recycled IP65 emergency light retrofitted with an electromagnetic ballast and in summer when the temperature approached 30 ºC it turned on without the need for a starter but in winter around 0 ºC it needed at least 3 or 4 preheat cycles and the use of a 4-22W starter, a 4-125W "universal" starter with so little consumption would open before the filaments could glow.
[EDIT] Where I live voltage is almost spot on at 230V during the day but at nights can go up to 240-245V
thank you!! i always love these long product review and teardown videos!!
Díky za schéma měřiče DIY
I got a rechargeable one with leds on the top. Its the same as those tennis racket type zappers. It works. But it cost 10 euros
To much... but my dad wanted it. If he's happy, I'm happy 😊
Would it be possible to add a hit counter somehow? A small display that can tell approximately how many insects it has encountered. Would be useful if you for instance turn it on in a bedroom to kill mosquitos before you go to bed. Sometimes you know that there was a mosquito in the room but you don't know if the lamp has caught it or not.
Maybe by measuring changes in voltage, current or resistance with a micro controller or single board computer? If it detects significent changes increment the counter by one and wait until the values stabilize before looking for changes again?
it would be nice if the modification is a simple and generic as possible so it is easy to build and works on as many insect lamps as possible.✌️
What a cool idea!
Thanks, yes I think so too😁. It could report hits to a web server additionally. Then you can turn on the mosquito lamp in the bedroom, leave and close the door and follow the results on the phone. Maybe graph of hits per minute. But a counter is a good start.
Awesome!!
The added stuff could be hidden inside the lamp or outside depending on how much available space there is. In the lamp in the video it could possibly fit inside.
The computing board could be a Raspberry Pi or an Arduino or something else running on power from the mains coming into the lamp using a 230V AC to 5V DC conversion board or a board from a 2A USB phone charger.
The display could be an LCD using I2C, only 4 cables connected to the GPIO pins of the computing board.
The data from the lamp circuit could be sent in to the computing board through its GPIO pins.
The big question is where in the lamp circuit it is optimal to read and how.
The current limiting series resistors at 10:43 has 6,5V AC when grid is not loaded and 143V AC when shorted, possible read point, but how to make it readable for the computing board? And some lamps maybe don't have this. Would be nice if the setup was applicable to most bug lamps you'll find in the nearest supermarket.
The grid is an open circuit when no insect is present and a closed circuit when one is. Could read this somehow, but that part of the lamp circuit has very high voltage, in this lamp 975V.
There is also some safety discharging resistors that seems to be common in this part, seen at 11:10, maybe by measuring current changes on these. I guess it should drop if an insect is present.
Or maybe by not entering the lamp inner circuit at all, just measure the watts of the whole lamp. If it changes, then an insect is there. 😁
@@dotpointer > Or maybe by not entering the lamp inner circuit at all, just measure the watts of the whole lamp. If it changes, then an insect is there. 😁
Yes, that is the easiest.
I think a wemos D1 mini (ESP8266) Is perfect for this due to wifi + gpio + small size and consumption, plus short boot time.
Why did i find this video so interesting? Keep up the good work. I love your videos.
The high voltage grid is probably causing the fluorescent tube to ionise and start before the conventional starter has time to heat up.
It is much better than the other one! Crazy how the cheap out in things.
I have one, and it also starts instantly. However, I distinctly remember that the first time I used it, it took a few flickers. I'm guessing as the tube gets older, and degrades, or in extremely cold environments the voltage required to start the tube will be above the mains line voltage. In which case the starter can take over by heating the filaments and reducing the requires start voltage.
Still... I wonder if a 15w incandescent lamp in series would have done a better job as a current limiting device...
As for the little beads in the tube, it's mercury amalgm. Usually tubes don't have anywhere near as much as this. However, being that it's purpose is to produce UV light, and the light emitted by mercury vapor is UV, it makes sense to use slightly more. All of the harmful UVC will be blocked by the glass. But the UVA will pass straight through.
In a week, the plastic would become so brittle, that it will fall apart under its own weight. UV loves munching on plastics.
That's if the bulb lasts that long.
Riot? Finally the Diodes goes Wild! =o)
By the way, take it as a compliment, your accents and how you like strech words, it is funny indeed and sometimes i am laughing from heart :)
But you didn’t test whether it attracts and kills insects!
Welcome to the channel.
The right to repair should be law in every country.
I have tried those small units and found they do not work very well, ended up buying a number of 35 watt twin tube units from Amazon. They work so well that when a fly goes into one there is report like a pistol shot an the fly disappears with bits often blown across the room, most satisfying when something like a wasp gets in and after the first pop there is a sizzling sound for a good few seconds..
Great, this review was good one!
I bought same zapper about two years ago. Tube failed, tried to find UV-tube for it, tube was more expensive than whole machine and cannot buy it from EU!! Now I bought "same" zapper from Lidl but it was rechargeable 18650 UV-Led one. :(
That's a really nice cord - a rubber one 15:38 - h05rn-f OTOH, the plastic is ABS (by the looks of it). ABS is UV unstable, which means it would crumble (and ofgas)
I love it. The most expensive part in the power cord. LOL!!!!!
My diy modified electric fly zapper has much more power than this thing. I replaced the HV-cap by 330 nF/2000V, inserted a better switching transistor and added a li-ion battery instead of 2x1,5V alcaline. It generates nearly 2000V and gives a shock power of 2/3 Joule - which still isn't much but small moskitos sometimes even explode! ;-)
I enjoy watching mosquitos explode. Good job! Fred
I use 15 thousand volt
@@309electronics5 this would definetly sparc at the distance of the wire. For 15 kV you need a distance of at least 15 mm between the wires, and you need expensive caps that would be very big....
My favourite electronic engineering channel ❤️🩹respect and much love for you and you family (your pretty cat and beauty shy dog) 🌹🇮🇷
very savvy suggestions
I find it quite pathetic saying "environment friendly" on the packaging but simultaneously stating that the entire device should be thrown away when the lamp fails, whereas it could easily be replaced by anybody knowing how to use a screwdriver. Maybe they are just legally required to do so by some liability obligations, but cheap out on building it in a way that the lamp could actually be replaced more easily (and "legally"), probably without needing a screwdriver...
They're afraid of somebody trying to replace the lamp, getting a shock and suing them. Environment friendly is just a fashionable word that every product has to have on it.
Pamatuju si, jak jsem úplně stejný kabel vyměnil u válcové lampy na opravy aut, po té, co ho kolega přejel a světlo přestalo svítit. S novým kabelem už nikdy zářivka nenastartovala, pak jsem zjistil, že ten kabel má zvláštní konstrukci žil, která se chová jako ta indukčnost 🙂 Tipuju, že tady to bude to samé.
I remember old case when i replaced simmilar looking power cable on tubular lamp for car repairs - it never lit up again with new power cord. Laterly, i found out that original power cord had special construction inside like really thin wire wounded around some insulator, substituting the inductor.🙂
Nebyl to spíš odporovej kabel? Neumím si představit, že by kabel měl dostatečnou indukčnost, aby nahradil železnou tlumivku.
They used to employ this type of "resistor/inductor" cord on old tube AM radios, made back in the early 1900's. The mains power cable was actually necessary for them to work and not blow up. Fred
@@DiodeGoneWild když nad tím přemýšlím,je to dost možné, fakt je, že indukčnost to muselo mít celkem malou. Každopádně po výměně za obyč už to světlo nikdy nefungovalo.
These will be very handy in the future. You could run them in an array on solar. Would just have to work out a conveyor to have you're zapped bugs drop into the deep fryer. Mmmmm, Mr. Schwab's brave new tomorrow - today. But seriously, love your work.
@DiodeGoneWild -
The plug is even more special , it has limited splash protection (the ring , maybe IPx5 ) , it looks like the red German extension cords for the garden (fits to this device that is intended for Germany)
The capacitor start can double the voltage. Starter shorts,current flow through capacitor. Lets say the random time the starter open is at 325V peak, so that charged capacitor voltage is now inseries with mains.
I was kind of expecting one big multiplier with the tube tapped off that, but that would mean having real bug zapper output power. I have the transformer from an old one rated 5KV 9mA.
I think they didn't use a full bridge doubler is because the one they used has a common ground. The HV output will provide an electrostatic field around the tube. This field will help "corral" ions inside the tube to one side and cause current crowding and help ignite the tube. Try running the tube with the HV disabled.
Now i kinda want to see an over engineered and costly tube based bug zapper 😃
Do a autopsy of a power supply from China! (A power supply with a 3-12V range and 60W max!) I want to explore it!
Posted at: 14:52, I'm your 22nd commenter! 1 hour ago. (1,444th viewer!)
The fact it said "Environmental friendly" caught me off guard 😂
5:14處啟動器是給傳統藍光燈管用的
7:31感謝電路圖 原來安定器被電阻電容構成的電路替代了『圖左』
圖右為倍壓器
Thank U man
Hi DiodeGoneWild. Do you share your shipping info somewhere? I have some 12V dodgy transformer I could send you. Thanks for your great videos.
I don't think it's public. Better check his website and send him a email
@@jb5631 Thanks
I love your
video 💪
Nice.
capacitors are for frequency atractrive
I'd stick a couple fans behind it and use it as an air 'purifier' lol :D or for more effect bung a MOT on the grid output :D x
Can you review some electric mosquito swatter that looks like a badminton racket
Interesting video. I am looking for a good quality zapper but I think that will cost a minimum of 30-40 euro.
Been interested to see if swapping the 47 nan and 82 nan caps on the multiplyer made finger zap better
You can connect channel A and B - then use A-B function ??
So the higher frequency oscillation seems to suggest the ionized plasma in the fl tube is exhibiting negative resistance.
of course :)
All gas discharge tubes are negative resistance devices AFAIK.
@@Broken_Yugo Yes, but they will only exhibit negative resistance characteristics at specific bias currents.
Top very good!.
Ooh another insect zapper! Will this one be as questionable as the previous ones?
These things falling around in the tube are drops of mercury. this phenomenon can be seen quite often on cheap chinese fluorescent tubes. The reason for why the manufacturers put more mercury in the tubes is simple: with to much mercury the tube works as usual, with to less mercury it doesn´t work properly (purple glow because only the argon gas pruduces the light then).
Parallel at nice cap on that weenie discharge cap.
That thing is even weaker than those electric fly swatters
Let’s see you improve it.
Have you ever seen Danyk's Tesla coil? If he improved this it would probably kill a lot more than just the errant mosquito! Fred
Surprised that your answer to the claim "Environmentally friendly" was not something along the lines of "How can something that kills animals be environmentally friendly?!" 😁
RC filters are the same as an inductor
An unrelated question: Can most 120-220V AC devices work with CC? Is it safe? Can you make a video testing it?
With this - insects will just queue up for the buzzzz and leave more invigorated ;)
Now that is genuinely funny! Fred
so. what the conclusion?
if your cute cat hunts a fly which flies into the zapper, it might be very dangerous to your cat with those big holes!
would be nice to make a good one out of old scrap and these crappy housings
Certainly also made in China but according to the specifications of a European importer.
I hate when they use those big plugs for small ungrounded devices! What's the point?
Tried that one for a few days. It killed one mosquito. I smashed about ten trying to suck my blood. Simply the machine does not work.
wny don't you use english subtitles?
TH-cam UK, you'd never know it.
Those aren't the letter "I", it's the "pipe" symbol "|" just used instead of bullet points for some dumb reason.
Few seconds later I realised it, but I left it in the video to show how stupid this graphic design is ;).
When he says he's not grounded, can someone explain to me what exactly that means or looks like? I thought we are always touching a path to earth.
In a dry room with a plastic floor, rubber crocs and all grounded metal objects over 2m away, there's virtually no way I'd make contact with ground.
@@DiodeGoneWild I see. So its like infinite resistance? Thanks for explaining to regular people :)
You should swap the capacitors in the multiplayer. Then the capacities would be much in line with what you said. By the way i want to order some programed Atmel from you. But you do not respond to any of my mails. Did you recived them? Thanks.
You can't swap those capacitor, the 47 nF one is only rated for 630V.
@@koharaisevo3666 True. I was assuming they are rated the same. My bad. You are right. Thanks for the correction 😊.
"Environmentally friendly. Ehh, I would rather have it functional" :D :D :D
Let's try to zoom it somehooow xD
End users should pet that cat
That plug is all you pay for 😅
Cheap crap electronics can have the most stupid marketing speak on them.
One time when i bought an electric hot plate for cooking i read the instruction manual out of curiosity and in my language (Lithuanian) it said that it might emit smoke a little when powered up for the first time.
But in english it had written this whole story how, when the hot plate is first powered up, it will form some sort of protective coating and in the process may smoke a little.
For absolutely no reason they throw in some magic protective coating being formed.
Its from the land of angels and fairy dust... Most likely China. Fred
Let's stick a screwdriver in it!!! Classic 😊
Kinda anticlimatic the fact that putting your finger in there does almost nothing if you are not grounded... My zapper racquet seems stronger than this by the noise it makes, not gonna try!
diy all your stuff then, no need to cast burden to anyone else
stop whining then
I just removed the ground connection of my oscilloscope so I can measure everything. The case is plastic anyway, so I just have to remember only to plug one channel when doing non-ground referenced measurements.
That's dodgy!
That is a dumb way to die.
sewper dodgehh 💀
What an odd accent.
had one and it died after less than a year. garbage
plesae film in 4k
Can we have clear ENGLISH please
It seems a bit overkill, forgive the pun, to use a voltage multiplier for the zapper grid. The mains through a bridge rectifier with a SMPS primary capacitor across it would be more than enough to kill a fly. 🪰⚡