21stcenturyshooting.com Neck Turning Lathe - set up and use
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.พ. 2013
- SharpshootingUK review the Neck Turning Lathe system from 21stcenturyshooting.com
Set up demonstrated from the beginner's perspective: blade angle change, case expanding, depth and length adjustment etc etc
Written review available here: www.airgunbbs.com/showthread.p...
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Terrific video....all TH-cam programs should be this clear and instructive!!! Thank you. George
Floating system and angled bits are a great design. Now we know how to properly order and adjust parts for this lathe. Good video-thanks! 21sr Century also has a quality concentricity guage.
What an excellent "how-to"/ review of this trimmer. You pretty much sold me on it. I will be ordering one within a week. Thanks!
Just picked up this sytem from 21 Century. Thanks for the help.
Nice video there! I looked up the pricing on that tool, and while I will not put cost here in bad taste, I will say purchasing a mini lathe for about the price of (2) of these fine tools will give you the ability to not only prep cases, but turn barrels, make reloading dies and tooling, etc. One of the best investments I made for shooting. Have fun, G.
Thanks for the informative video, Richard. I ended up buying one!
Thanks for the thorough, clear instructions on how to set up my new trimmer!
Yes Steyrman I very much would. I use it in 17,204,223,6.5mm and 7mm
All excellent
I have got several Nick turning machines this one looks far easier to adjust then both of mine.
I appreciate the interchangeable cutters.
My experience with Nick turning with cases like 17 Remington and 240 Weatherby Magnum, has been that even the lightest cut the full length of the neck and just kissing my shoulder can make some difference, when I remain a light pass I am only putting a new surface on 30 to 40% of the neck.
Excellent video, Richard. You answered every detail question I had after viewing this neck turning lathe on the 21st Century web site. Looks like a great neck turning setup, and the angled blades are a great feature.
Thanks Jeff :D Means a lot
Great video. One of the best I've seen yet. I was some what disappointed because you never showed us how tight the neck fit over the mandrel after you resized it. Also, you never went back to the micrometer after you neck turned your brass. I would of liked to see a before and after measurement of the wall thickness.
Thank you for a great job illustrating the neck turning lathe..
Thank you and constructive criticism appreciated :)
Richard - by far one of the best "how to use it" video's regarding a fairly complex piece of reloading equipment. I am a beginner and just now understanding/learning about benchrest shooting. Am about to undertake having a rifle built (6.5x47 Lapua). You did a great job explaining the lathe. This TH-cam video now in my reloading library for when I have a few extra clams laying around to buy the lathe. Thanks again.
Thank Goodness for people like you and You Tube. I just picked up the system and the instructions were terrible to say least. I will be doing all my brass for 6 x 47 Lapua, 6 x 284 Norma and my 6.5 Creedmoor and will probably get set up for all my .30 Cal Toys. Now I now what accessories I need so here goes some more money. I'm shooting nice groups out passed 1000 yards so hopefully this will tighten them up even more. Next step, Bench Source Annealing Machine. Looks like a great set up. Thanks again. Jimmy G
Jimmy G Really kind of you thanks Jimmy G :)
hi richard love the videos you post, my dad has recently bought a howa 1500 .243 and ive often wondered can you really save money reloading 243
At last a video that is clear and easy to understand . I thank you for that. I'm pretty new to home loading. Only been doing it for a couple of years. This is the last tool I need . I have a Ackley improved 22250 now and then the bolt is a little tight to open do you think this will cure this?
Everybody should have one of these they look brilliant and they put nice I certainly will be getting one what piece of kit.
Grate vid Richard, will have to get one. Got a delta scope because of another review of yours. I am relatively new to reloading and have put a reloading video out on my Chanel, could you have a quick look at it and give me your opinion if you have the time.
Hey Richard, did you use a neck sizing die BEFORE using the expander madras/die? What do you do AFTER you turn the necks? After turning do you move along to Neck Resizing and trimming? Or is all this done before neck turning? Or do you neck size and trim before AND after neck turning? Let me know, thanks!! AWESOME VIDEO BY THE WAY!! THANK YOU!! I recently got one and I am just now getting into the nitty gritty of using it!! So, appreciate you taking the time to help all of us!!!
If you're trimming the necks, does this alter the tension the sized neck has on the projectile to a degree that it becomes a problem? That angled cutter really is an excellent idea as I'm using a K&M cutter on my 6x47L Wildcat, and can't get a sharp, one angled cut. Great reviews BTW.
That is nice, but if the ID of the neck had R.O. relative to the case shoulder then, after the excellent machining, the neck structure will be perfectly offset by that R.O. after completion.
I'm going to keep neck wall thickness around 0.012" minimum.I have turned some that ended at 0.011-0.010 and they won't size down small enough to grip bullet when loading. If using bushing dies and have a custom/tighter chamber that requires it then it might be satisfactory. You have turned a lot of wall thickness off and might be a little thin for non bushing dies. Just a thought, but I may have had thin brass to begin with. I have other brass that has been turned and still has 12-13 thousandths wall thickness. I would have stopped at your first pass cutting and called it good.
Struggled a little bit today with my neck turner. I can only cut just short of the neck, if I adjust a little deeper it leaves a pretty good ring part way up the neck. If I go even deeper to get rid of the ring, I think it takes to much material off the shoulder. ?? I'm taking .001 off when I cut to leave me a .268 neck. Any suggestions. I emailed some pictures to 21st also.
Richard, thank you for a truly informative video. I've been reloading for years but have never reloaded for extreme accuracy. I've started shooting 338 Lapua Mag. recently and collecting all the necessary equipment and components. I've got 500 new Lapua Brass cases never fired. Would you be so kind as to enlighten me/us on the steps for brass prep? I'll be using Redding dies. I've got full body die and neck bushing die. First load on this brass should I:
1. Full length size (and decap) to ensure smooth chambering
2. Neck size using appropriate bushing
3. Expand using 21stcentury mandrel
4. Trim to length
5. Turn necks using neck turning tool
6. Anneal (Lapua is already annealed, but subsequent firings I want to anneal every time on this brass)
Is my order of operations correct? Or should I anneal prior to sizing? Not sure if I'll need to body size yet. Using Barrett MRAD in 338 LM.
Appreciate any and all tips you would recommend. And thank you again for the clear and concise video.
Thanks Chris :)
Yes that's right but I wouldn't neck size with a bushing on new brass prior to turning. It's not a necessary step as the FL will do it. In fact on new brass you can skip straight to expanding.
The important things are : anneal after the turning as it really disrupts the brass.
Make sure the brass is all the same length before turning so it is cut to a uniform position.
ATVB and merry xmas :)
Thanks, and merry xmas to you as well.
Cheers
I can see the benefit of uniforming the neck and shoulder from the outside.
however I would be interested to know if reaming the neck internally would be needed in a addition to this external operation for paramount accuracy?
Hi there :) The point of the tight-tolerance and tightly fitting expander mandrel and then matched turning arbor is to force the bumps on the inside out to the outside, where they are turned off. So no, it isn't necessary :)
when measuring the case neck thickness you should have removed all carbine deposits including the inside the neck, I hope this is helpful cheers.
Thanks yes indeed
Hi would you recommend this for all centrefire cases
Nice video. What was your total cost for one caliber? How long does the cutter last?
Hi, i just used mine today for the very first time on Winchester .300 WSM Brass, my reloading books spec for neck outside diameter is 0.344"(is that a max od measurement or a minimum?) and after i turned the necks leaving the odd areas where it did not cut my OD is 0.333" is that too thin??? Brand new Nosler brass out of the box measures 0.338 to 0.339"
Great video,, do you neck size again after turning to get proper neck tension?
Yessir, after annealing. But i use a thou larger bush than normal as there is a lot of neck tension on the first firing after annealing. Annealing+1 onwards it settles down much better
Could anyone Help?? What simple tools do i need to produce a bullet casing from Brass tubes on my own??
Just ran across this great video and ordered my 21 century lathe. I turned 50 cases for my 6mm Creedmoor. I am not getting concentric cuts at the neck shoulder junction. On one area of the each piece of brass it seems to go a little higher on the shoulder. I don't feel a lip with my finger nail but am curious what is causing this. Maybe the warble of the driver head ?
Yes that happens a lot. Are they all freshly trimmed?
They were trimmed. John at 21 Century emailed me and said I had the left bushing to tight and the cutter needs to move. I loosened the nut and it eliminated most of the unevenness.
It looks like the way the case sits in the shell holder it wobbles.
It's supposed to wobble.
nice ....super
At the high speed i can see that the case is wobbling around, is that acceptable?
What a grand name and accent you have!
Which part of England is your accent from?
Wow! love it.
I'm from the posh bit (which is in the South from the wealthy counties known as the Home Counties) :D But I live up North where people speak weirdly (and are weird) . Sometimes people throw things at me here but it's OK because I know and they know that I'm superior due to my "Home Counties" accent.
who sells this in UK?
Richard, the cutter bumps the shoulder and does not cut. Is this correct. Never a dumb question i say. Especially with reloading. Thanks for the help.
Hi Tom :) The various cutters, angled to exactly match the angle of the shoulder, do cut in to the shoulder. They cut it correctly and don't weaken it
Hello Richard, does neck turning significant impact on ES and SD?
do you trim your brass to length before turning the necks?
Yes absolutely
mason p yes that’s recommended
Richard - what about any micro-scoring inside the neck as the brass circulates on the mandrel or doesnt this really occur ?
I get a bit on my trimming lathe but i don't get any on the 21st neck turning lathe, primarily because of the ti. nit. coatings on the arbor, I reckon.
Size, trim, neckturn?
How much are they mate it doesn't say how much it is
Myslím, že se touto úpravou jenom sníží životnost nábojnice, bude mít tendenci praskat v krčku. Navíc 95%-98% střelců rozdíl v přesnosti nepozná.
It’s not running concentric and it will cause the neck to open up
You may have been making the wall thickness of the neck concentric to itself but with the bottom end of the case running out so bad the form you are introducing is not concentric to the body of the case. In my opinion as someone working in the precision machining field for 35 years, the body of the case should be in a collet that should be held rigidly centered to the mandrel supporting the neck.
Mr42960 Yes that's very interesting thank you. I presume it's better to index off case sides than the head of the case, then? It would be interesting to ask John at 21stcentury his thoughts on this. Thanks for your input
+Mr42960 Excellent point. I've always wondered why someone never incorporated a neck turner and/or trimmer into a body die. shoulders and mouths can move around and be uneven but the base is just that.
I do believe though that the prime reason for turning is uneven neck pressure on the bullet, which is a bigger problem for accuracy than a slightly off-axis neck to body. I'm no expert though.
+Ronin Iscandar Yeah that makes sense to me. You have to index off SOMETHING! I'll run this past John - these engineers are wired different ;)
Nice tool but rather spendy at £400