I love the fact that you're working on an old, well-used bike that looks a little ... crusty. Y'know. That's something I can honestly relate to! Thanks for the great info.
Great stuff, man! I just watched all the 16 episodes in a row, can't wait to see the final product! The bike is coming along awesome... Cheers from Brazil, mate! Keep up the hard work
Find the original part that fits those splines "probably the brake pedal" cut it and weld a tab to it, Then connect that to your rear sets. On my cb350 twin my brake pedal was the pivot so I cut that off the pivot point and welded some tube over that to extend it out and welded a metal tab to that. This allowed me to retain the stock spring, brake light switch, and most Importantly the correct geometry. Good luck with the build!
Great and informative as always Jonny. Hope that you were wearing safety goggles, as you did the first cut with the "flames" going UP toward your face. My friend is an ophthalmologist and he is always telling me stories about this kind of accidents. On another note, I like that you have the patience to work neat and to do everything by the book, and not rush the project.
I normally don't post comments on youtube, as there's no real point, but since this was posted a week ago I feel like I could help. PULL ON THE BRAKE ONLY! NEVER PUSH THE ROD! If you set it to push the brake, a single bend could cause it to collapse and you lose your rear brake functionality. Would you bet your life that the rod will always be perfectly straight? And to answer your question, the brake "cam" that the lever actuates works both ways.
i would put a loop on the rear it would give frame lot more support and if you lay it over u wouldn't have to worry about those plates folding in and squishing it together
Dear Johnny, Great videos! I hope its not to late, but I was wondering if you can show how you make the frame neat after grinding. Looking forward seeing more of your videos.
I could be wrong, but it looked like you had a backwards mounted front tire on your 'good' rear wheel. Not sure it that would be a problem or not. Really looking forward to the finished product.
you say in video you didnt want the old lever or spindle there but would have been easier to keep on and flipped the shifter like you shown you can do and ran threaded bar to spline spindle and made it work that way
FYI, you have your rear set levers facing the wrong way out during your mock-up. The counter sunk hole is for the screw that holds the pedal on, not for the toe pedal, itself. Also, please pay attention to the comment that has already been made about the brake rod being a "pull" actuate, not a "push" actuate. Just because you don't plan to ride it much doesn't mean that someone who owns it after you won't. ....and modifying something to be more dangerous is bad form in terms of craftsmanship.
Hello Johnny. Wondering if by chance you saved a part that you said you might in this video. Pardon, I don't know the exact name of it, but hopefully I can explain it. On the original set up, the part that came directly off the break has a small hole that a piece fits in. the adjustable break bar fits into that piece. If you by chance have it, would you mind selling it? If not. Can you please tell me what it is called so I can go on a search. Thank you for your time
Hey jonnysshop, can you do a video about the rear set clutch side? I'm having the hardiest time with them. I've got everything set up but when it comes to actually shifting gears, it doesn't do anything.
I did my rear sets like this but without the original adjustment (spring rod by actuator) there is way to much range of motion in my drum break.... how did you solve this?
Awesome updates. I have a rear sets sitting on the self too, but was always scared to hack the brake leaver. I've always questioned how to mock it up, but I guess you've e answer it. I have only one question though, more like two. when you cut off the lever, did you also cut off the frame? And last question, how would you route the brake switch that is connected to the engine?
Dont do it! Think about why the center of the Swingarm and the Center of the Brakeaxle is so close together - because of that makes sense. If you do it "your" way and the Swingarm moves up or down your Brakepedal will brake or the Brakepedalway is increased that you cant brake anymore! Believe me and dont reverse the Brakearm cause all (special the brakeshoes in the Drum) are supposed just for one direction they arent symetrical!
***** Just take a look at this picture: minifahrer.bplaced.net/wrdprs/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/scheibenbremse_hinten_vorher_erste-Anprope.jpg (sorry germanonly Blog) There you can see the reason why i know that ;-)
He is correct. Notice how the original brake shaft has a spring, it is that way to compensate for suspension travel. He is also correct about having the brake linkage facing up in the factory position.
I love the fact that you're working on an old, well-used bike that looks a little ... crusty. Y'know. That's something I can honestly relate to! Thanks for the great info.
Building a 1974 cb360. Your videos have been great for me. I've never built a bike before and now feel a lot better about my project. THANKS!
Great stuff, man! I just watched all the 16 episodes in a row, can't wait to see the final product! The bike is coming along awesome... Cheers from Brazil, mate! Keep up the hard work
Find the original part that fits those splines "probably the brake pedal" cut it and weld a tab to it, Then connect that to your rear sets. On my cb350 twin my brake pedal was the pivot so I cut that off the pivot point and welded some tube over that to extend it out and welded a metal tab to that. This allowed me to retain the stock spring, brake light switch, and most Importantly the correct geometry. Good luck with the build!
Great and informative as always Jonny. Hope that you were wearing safety goggles, as you did the first cut with the "flames" going UP toward your face. My friend is an ophthalmologist and he is always telling me stories about this kind of accidents.
On another note, I like that you have the patience to work neat and to do everything by the book, and not rush the project.
Looking great! Excited to see the finished product.
I normally don't post comments on youtube, as there's no real point, but since this was posted a week ago I feel like I could help. PULL ON THE BRAKE ONLY! NEVER PUSH THE ROD! If you set it to push the brake, a single bend could cause it to collapse and you lose your rear brake functionality. Would you bet your life that the rod will always be perfectly straight?
And to answer your question, the brake "cam" that the lever actuates works both ways.
i would put a loop on the rear it would give frame lot more support and if you lay it over u wouldn't have to worry about those plates folding in and squishing it together
Dear Johnny,
Great videos!
I hope its not to late, but I was wondering if you can show how you make the frame neat after grinding.
Looking forward seeing more of your videos.
I could be wrong, but it looked like you had a backwards mounted front tire on your 'good' rear wheel. Not sure it that would be a problem or not. Really looking forward to the finished product.
you say in video you didnt want the old lever or spindle there but would have been easier to keep on and flipped the shifter like you shown you can do and ran threaded bar to spline spindle and made it work that way
Looks like the tire is mounted backwards also. The directional arrow is supposed to face the direction the bike travels
FYI, you have your rear set levers facing the wrong way out during your mock-up. The counter sunk hole is for the screw that holds the pedal on, not for the toe pedal, itself. Also, please pay attention to the comment that has already been made about the brake rod being a "pull" actuate, not a "push" actuate. Just because you don't plan to ride it much doesn't mean that someone who owns it after you won't. ....and modifying something to be more dangerous is bad form in terms of craftsmanship.
Hello Johnny. Wondering if by chance you saved a part that you said you might in this video. Pardon, I don't know the exact name of it, but hopefully I can explain it. On the original set up, the part that came directly off the break has a small hole that a piece fits in. the adjustable break bar fits into that piece. If you by chance have it, would you mind selling it? If not. Can you please tell me what it is called so I can go on a search. Thank you for your time
Hey jonnysshop, can you do a video about the rear set clutch side? I'm having the hardiest time with them. I've got everything set up but when it comes to actually shifting gears, it doesn't do anything.
I did my rear sets like this but without the original adjustment (spring rod by actuator) there is way to much range of motion in my drum break.... how did you solve this?
+zmurrayvisuals I haven't yet :( I need to get back on the project.
Awesome updates. I have a rear sets sitting on the self too, but was always scared to hack the brake leaver. I've always questioned how to mock it up, but I guess you've e answer it. I have only one question though, more like two. when you cut off the lever, did you also cut off the frame? And last question, how would you route the brake switch that is connected to the engine?
Dont do it!
Think about why the center of the Swingarm and the Center of the Brakeaxle is so close together - because of that makes sense. If you do it "your" way and the Swingarm moves up or down your Brakepedal will brake or the Brakepedalway is increased that you cant brake anymore! Believe me and dont reverse the Brakearm cause all (special the brakeshoes in the Drum) are supposed just for one direction they arent symetrical!
Ahh... Good point!
*****
Just take a look at this picture:
minifahrer.bplaced.net/wrdprs/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/scheibenbremse_hinten_vorher_erste-Anprope.jpg
(sorry germanonly Blog) There you can see the reason why i know that ;-)
10zoll Wow, I see what you're saying!
He is correct. Notice how the original brake shaft has a spring, it is that way to compensate for suspension travel. He is also correct about having the brake linkage facing up in the factory position.
When is episode 17 due?
which dtt member did you get the rear set? thanks
possible that the rearset shifter can use in break hub set??
Hmm.. I suppose it could if it were pushed hard enough.
+1 on iDeckerMacRepair's comment. Very important.
where did you buy the lever from again?
Website DotheTon
+Johnnysshop Thanks. The site is hard to navigate and pretty slow...I will try fleabay.
engine videos coming soon?
Any updates?
i can,t watch video number 17 please upload that video
Ichiban moto already made this video !
i can,t watch video number 17 please upload that video