Shop teachers need to ramble on, that's how we learn and pick up on different ways of making or machining things. It's the little things one says that adds to a great conversation. Great job Mr. Pete.
these cast iron projects are beautiful; nice clear shots without any coolant splashing around, and the contrast between cast and machined surfaces perfectly illustrates the cuts. the results are gorgeous - thank you, mr. pete!
As always; our Mr Pete be dah man! I thank Jesus for men like him. So gracious and giving and "down to home".. His videos are truly a treasure. Thanks dear friend.
Another FANTASTIC video sir! I found a Hallmark Christmas ornament that runs on three AAA batteries or this Dynamo and my Stuart Walking Beam steam engine (I do wish I could run it at a slower RPM though). The ornament includes motion, music, and LED lighting. Kids love it! I've got to get it in a video one of these days. Thanks again for all your great work!
Thank you for another very informative video. As I am your age I will never put to use all that you are teaching me, but I will carry on watching, learning and enjoying. Thanks. Martin. (from the UK)
Nice, I have been building PM Research stuff lately. Very high quality and runs very very good. I have the 2AM W/dynamo and a 3BIM coming in the mail. I also have a Jensen 70G and a 25G both are fabulous engines!!.
Thank you for giving a bit of rational on how you decided to determine and machine your first reference surface. I was wondering about that during your last vise build. Keep up the good work.
Very nicely done. I realize this project is not NASA level, but I sure do find it interesting. You inspired me with the drill press vice video, ordered one from O'Keefe. I'll definitely rewatch videos before starting. Thank you.
I found this video riveting, not boring. However I was concerned when I heard the sirens; I thought perhaps the jig was up :-) Seriously, since I am not a machinist, I find your explanations illuminating and useful. Thanks!
I bought one of those kits for about 48 bucks. It works really well and is a fun project. I know a lot of them have been built. They easily put out 10 to 12 volts.
Hi Mr Pete, thanks for another great video. although there are many ways to skin a cat, one factor that should be included in cutting the base plane of the cast frame is that the flange ends should be of equal thickness. Some that you alluded to. therefore in setting up to machine the base the reference plane should be the top face of the flanges - this being the faces closer to the vice. so it would be best to measure to the top face of the flanges , not to base of the flanges. If the flanges protrude far enough the they can simply rest on the top of the vice jaws. I appreciate your great work in the videos. thanks
Yes, that was definitely the only boring video I've seen today. I do love to watch the machined surfaces come out of those rough castings. I guess they design these kits around preexisting wound rotors. It would be so cool to have one that modeled the old large-diameter dynamos of the steam- and diesel-driven generating plants, like you see on the Fairbanks-Morse units. They would generate useful voltage at lower RPM, too.
That would make it an 80” bore. This is not modeling a man-high generator, that’d look very different. Maybe 1 in 12, though. That’d translate to a 16” bore, which would be this style of generator.
I think that everyone have great use for a set of metric drills in imperial land just as we in metric sometimes need that hole to be just over or under size and use imperial. A common nut size is m8 that use a 13mm spanner, if the head is damaged I hammer on a half inch spanner as that is just under under 13mm.
Agreed. My shop is pretty much 100% imperial and I have no desire to change. That said, I have metric tools, drills, taps & dies etc. for when our two Worlds intersect. I routinely come across projects where I need something metric. The two systems can co-exist.
Nice project Mr P, to this non-machinist it looks like if not careful it could be problematic getting that initial reference cut right on a rough casting - nice to see how its done. Looks like that magnet spring could be pushed into place using a tool in the inside of the V-? I can see how that casting is going to give the finished product a look from the early days of the industrial revolution, very cool. Cant wait for the next installment.
Fun Project Mr. Pete. Enjoyed the Setup dialog. I'm curious why you machined the base in the X and the bore faces in the Y and does it even matter? Looking forward to see how you setup to line up the 8 bell screws and the bearing holes to keep the armature centered in the bore and concentric to the magnets. Thank so much for another great project to learn from!
Very happy. - Not talking too much, but giving thorough explanations. - 15:20 There coming to take you away, Ho Ho, Ha Ha, He He! - I love your sense of humor. - It gives us much joy to watch your entertaining videos. - Alex Trebek awaits. Have fun. See you next time, Good LORD willing.
Lyle, at about 13:23, "am I talking too much?" NO! Unless what you're saying is not instructive. I'll let you know IF that ever happens. If you ever have a need for replacement magnets, find a broken car window regulator. (The power window drive unit.) Those magnets look VERY similar. Any auto repair shop, will likely have a few on hand. If you were in the Phoenix Az area, I'd give you some. Usually, the cable mechanism is what goes bad, not the motors, on window regulators. steve
Please can I ask why you chose to level the casting using the underside of the base (which you have already said is not necessarily ground true) - the top of the cast ‘feet’ which are set up in the vice facing down to machine the bottom may be left ‘as cast’ although you may later spot face for the hold-down bolts - why wouldn’t you use this surface (facing the mill table) when setting up the casting using your surface gauge? I am a newbie to this, so there is probably a good reason for not doing this, but I thought I’d ask. I did like the way you used the bar through the bore to get it nicely parallel to the cast in bore. Thanks for all your videos - great viewing and learning for someone like me who doesn’t have any engineering shop training. Please keep them up.
This is a fantastic beginners kit. I'll be getting one of these 100%. Mr Pete are you aware of any other basic kits that you could use in conjunction with this one? I might use this with a variable power supply for an automatic powder trickler for reloading rifle rounds??
Doug Doty don't know it off the top of my head but check the machine handbook you should be able to find all you need for machineing in there. Most libraries carry it.
Shop teachers need to ramble on, that's how we learn and pick up on different ways of making or machining things. It's the little things one says that adds to a great conversation. Great job Mr. Pete.
Thanks
Oh Mr Pete, you definitely can run your own TV shows of such projects, a pleasure to listen to and watch, simply marvelous!
Thanks
these cast iron projects are beautiful; nice clear shots without any coolant splashing around, and the contrast between cast and machined surfaces perfectly illustrates the cuts. the results are gorgeous - thank you, mr. pete!
Thanks for watching
As always; our Mr Pete be dah man!
I thank Jesus for men like him. So gracious and giving and "down to home"..
His videos are truly a treasure.
Thanks dear friend.
Thank you very much, God bless you
Thank you for inviting us to your shop class .
Another FANTASTIC video sir! I found a Hallmark Christmas ornament that runs on three AAA batteries or this Dynamo and my Stuart Walking Beam steam engine (I do wish I could run it at a slower RPM though). The ornament includes motion, music, and LED lighting. Kids love it! I've got to get it in a video one of these days. Thanks again for all your great work!
That sounds neat, tell me when you have a video
Nice video Mr. Pete. I'll be looking forward to the rest of the video series.
Thank you for another very informative video.
As I am your age I will never put to use all that you are teaching me, but I will carry on watching, learning and enjoying.
Thanks. Martin. (from the UK)
This is going to be a fun project to watch. Looking forward to parts 2 & 3!
Nice, I have been building PM Research stuff lately. Very high quality and runs very very good. I have the 2AM W/dynamo and a 3BIM coming in the mail. I also have a Jensen 70G and a 25G both are fabulous engines!!.
Yes, they have nice castings. Enjoy your build.
Thank you for giving a bit of rational on how you decided to determine and machine your first reference surface. I was wondering about that during your last vise build. Keep up the good work.
Very nicely done. I realize this project is not NASA level, but I sure do find it interesting. You inspired me with the drill press vice video, ordered one from O'Keefe. I'll definitely rewatch videos before starting. Thank you.
Good thing it comes with a lifting eye, you never know when you will need to move that thing around..nice detail! :-)
I always learn new ways to square work pieces. Thank you for the great videos.
I found this video riveting, not boring. However I was concerned when I heard the sirens; I thought perhaps the jig was up :-) Seriously, since I am not a machinist, I find your explanations illuminating and useful. Thanks!
"These machines are out to get you" - Never were truer safety words spoken.... :-)
Yes
A machine is always on alert to harm you, humans not so much.
I bought one of those kits for about 48 bucks. It works really well and is a fun project. I know a lot of them have been built. They easily put out 10 to 12 volts.
Very nice work sir! Looking forward to seeing this I action as I have wanted to purchase one for some time now.
Thanks
Hi Mr Pete,
thanks for another great video.
although there are many ways to skin a cat, one factor that should be included in cutting the base plane of the cast frame is that the flange ends should be of equal thickness. Some that you alluded to.
therefore in setting up to machine the base the reference plane should be the top face of the flanges - this being the faces closer to the vice.
so it would be best to measure to the top face of the flanges , not to base of the flanges.
If the flanges protrude far enough the they can simply rest on the top of the vice jaws.
I appreciate your great work in the videos. thanks
I liked your Ted Lewis reference! And yes, when we are watching a Mr. Pete video!! Looks like a fun project!!
Yes, that was definitely the only boring video I've seen today. I do love to watch the machined surfaces come out of those rough castings.
I guess they design these kits around preexisting wound rotors. It would be so cool to have one that modeled the old large-diameter dynamos of the steam- and diesel-driven generating plants, like you see on the Fairbanks-Morse units. They would generate useful voltage at lower RPM, too.
Very smart way of making sure the bottom is parallel with the bore.
Ditto.. what Mature Patriot said!!! Thanks Mr Pete
Nice job milling it to spec's 👍 😎
Thanks for making your videos, by the way... :)
We love them!!!
16:08; Hey Mr. Pete! Would bet the 1.333" comes from exact scaling down of Dynamo that was much larger. Maybe 1/60 scale? Cheers!
That would make it an 80” bore. This is not modeling a man-high generator, that’d look very different.
Maybe 1 in 12, though. That’d translate to a 16” bore, which would be this style of generator.
really enjoying this one mr pete
I think that everyone have great use for a set of metric drills in imperial land just as we in metric sometimes need that hole to be just over or under size and use imperial. A common nut size is m8 that use a 13mm spanner, if the head is damaged I hammer on a half inch spanner as that is just under under 13mm.
Agreed. My shop is pretty much 100% imperial and I have no desire to change. That said, I have metric tools, drills, taps & dies etc. for when our two Worlds intersect. I routinely come across projects where I need something metric. The two systems can co-exist.
In UK, M8 bolts usually have a half inch head, for ease of finding a spanner :) I use a 1/4" drill bit for tapping M8 too.
Nice project Mr P, to this non-machinist it looks like if not careful it could be problematic getting that initial reference cut right on a rough casting - nice to see how its done. Looks like that magnet spring could be pushed into place using a tool in the inside of the V-? I can see how that casting is going to give the finished product a look from the early days of the industrial revolution, very cool. Cant wait for the next installment.
0:11 That's no accident!
Thanks for making these videos, by the way :)
🤙
Nice work, great project. I vote for you showing how to make a little lifting eye.
Nice project for the engine. enjoyed.
Fun Project Mr. Pete. Enjoyed the Setup dialog. I'm curious why you machined the base in the X and the bore faces in the Y and does it even matter? Looking forward to see how you setup to line up the 8 bell screws and the bearing holes to keep the armature centered in the bore and concentric to the magnets. Thank so much for another great project to learn from!
Very happy. - Not talking too much, but giving thorough explanations. - 15:20 There coming to take you away, Ho Ho, Ha Ha, He He! - I love your sense of humor. - It gives us much joy to watch your entertaining videos. - Alex Trebek awaits. Have fun. See you next time, Good LORD willing.
mrpete222 The kit is currently $49 plus $8.25 shipping.
I'm really looking forward to your building this. I have one just like it and I want to know how to approach the build.
Nice kit. Thank you as always.
as ever instructional entertaining love the designer hammer mark on your thumb I collect them too
Two Thumbs Up !!! Sir Great Video
Hey, I live about 20 minutes from wellsvile NY. I actually lived there for about 5 years when I was younger. I might have to look into that company.
zachariah liles Nice quality castings and like Mr. Pete said good drawings. I made their #3 horizontal engine, want to try a bigger one eventually.
Lyle, at about 13:23, "am I talking
too much?"
NO! Unless what you're saying
is not instructive. I'll let you know
IF that ever happens.
If you ever have a need for replacement
magnets, find a broken car window
regulator. (The power window drive
unit.) Those magnets look VERY similar.
Any auto repair shop, will likely have a
few on hand. If you were in the Phoenix
Az area, I'd give you some. Usually, the
cable mechanism is what goes bad, not
the motors, on window regulators.
steve
Thanks
Loving the build Pete would love to see you make a stuart model mini lathe or milling machine casting?
Those models are too small for me to see
mrpete222 oh OK well look forward to seeing how this casting turns out
Thank you very much for yout great video
Please can I ask why you chose to level the casting using the underside of the base (which you have already said is not necessarily ground true) - the top of the cast ‘feet’ which are set up in the vice facing down to machine the bottom may be left ‘as cast’ although you may later spot face for the hold-down bolts - why wouldn’t you use this surface (facing the mill table) when setting up the casting using your surface gauge? I am a newbie to this, so there is probably a good reason for not doing this, but I thought I’d ask.
I did like the way you used the bar through the bore to get it nicely parallel to the cast in bore. Thanks for all your videos - great viewing and learning for someone like me who doesn’t have any engineering shop training. Please keep them up.
This was fun!
This is a fantastic beginners kit. I'll be getting one of these 100%. Mr Pete are you aware of any other basic kits that you could use in conjunction with this one? I might use this with a variable power supply for an automatic powder trickler for reloading rifle rounds??
Thanks for sharing sir..
What RPM was appropriate for the boring bar ?? in cast iron. Thanks,
Doug Doty don't know it off the top of my head but check the machine handbook you should be able to find all you need for machineing in there. Most libraries carry it.
i bought one back in the 90's and need to dig it up with a more serious interest in machining.
will the armature go inside with the magnets in place?
Wonder if you could soup up the output with neodymium magnets..lots of rippums for not many watts
lol
The process of rough cleaning the castings is called fettling.
Thanks
I just looked at the dynamo on PM research's site. It's actually quite reasonable in price. Too bad I would have to buy it with Canadian pesos.
Thanks
I looked up Power Model Supply. It looks like there is an interesting story about the demise of the company.
Were can u buy them in Pennsylvania.
In New York…Wellsville, specifically. PM Research
Very cool!
Thank you sir.
🤙
Charles Small, Where are you located? Not too many of us Smalls around.
Thanks for the video! I'll take Machining Cast Iron for 200, Alex . . .
I love jeopardy
classic mr pete video
Thanks
You cant fix
1 piace