Give yourself some credit mate you really are very good at this, and it definitely shows that you have put in the hard work to get where you are now... excellent work and great teacher thanks very much! " subscribed " ✌
I made my own jig, using ample flux and a stencil just slightly bigger than spec and hot air blower with hand, I could do this under the scope without hassle. you do need practice as said here , most importantly again emphasized here is clean tools, high quality flux and blower makes all the difference. On smaller pin chips i even practiced placing balls manually after desoldering old ones, the key is to get dead boards and practice. two three times and voila you will be a professional
One of my favorite bga jigs. For lifting the chip out I use a pair of tweezers where I bend them out really far in the middle and then bring the tips back in a little. Its annoying if you grab them for normal stuff since they do not close but its extremely useful for picking up bigger chips.
I see what you mean, I think I’ve seen them online (for sale!). I like this tool though. It does what it says. My main complaint is the four stand screws which are too loose, they should have had some sort of locking mechanism. Thanks for watching!
Hi Tony, worth mentioning that there is special flux available for BGA work it's designed to hold the balls in place after heating with hot air, a good one is Mechanic AD Series & CMOV 223 / 559 Soldering Flux Paste Kit NC-559 . there are others too. Bob
Thanks - it's difficult to navigate through all the available fluxes and all their copycats. The "mechanic" is all over the internet, I'm not sure which is genuine and which is not. Same for Amtech of course. Most "high-viscosity" or "tacky" fluxes are suitable for the task. You want something that doesn't move the balls once they're in place. But I am not aware of a flux which does not liquefy once it's heated up. The trick - in my limited experience - is to apply a minimum amount just to keep the balls in place but not enough so that the balls float on it when it's heated up. Then apply again at the end once the balls are somehow bonded to the pads for a perfect bonding. Thanks for watching!
niiice! I use such a Jig for a year now, but the screw thing is new for me and sounds like a very logical step to get it work better :D will definitly try
Recently bought a kit. Not with the brown...ish thing you got but the blue version. Im excited to finally do some proper stuff instead of just smacking it on and hoping
Awesome video, Tony! I learned a lot from this. I haven't ventured into the scary world of BGA work yet, but I feel like I'm going to need to learn these skills at some point! Your instructions were very clear and the end-result looked beautiful. Is your hot air station and pre-heating plate all that's needed to BGA chips reattached to the board/card reliably as well? My cheap handheld station is probably not going to cut it for this type of work.
I’m glad it helps someone understanding the process. I’ve been tinkering with BGA for many years now and yes, it’s a scary thing 😂 As long as your hot air handle can deliver uniform temps, that might be ok. For large nozzles you need that plus higher airflow. My previous station was a toy and I’ve only burnt things with that. The pre-heating plate is a must. That’s a fact. Smaller ICs are simpler to work on of course. Check out my GTX480 repair video where I do reball and attach an IC (with a working result) for the first time. th-cam.com/video/LWdWm6zJDxA/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching and for the nice comment!
I bought this little jig and used it with success. I followed ram update by dosdude1 (youtuber), this video and others. The little wheels on the side have a too course thread. Maybe just use shims instead. I agite the little jig by moving it around to get most of the balls on their place. I Also use a plate I can move to my pre heater and I first put the jig aside the plate (old satalite receiver case). I just use tweasers, but I reballed memory chips, there smaller. Anyways, I watched this and gotten further with my hobby. Thank you.
thank you :) Silly question. Couldnt you just melt the balls in the stencil so they cant move ? This is what i saw others do. I still need to be succesful on my first reball. I tried a couple times but I think actually I just had the wrong tools. Now I got a IR preheater and I'm gonna try some more. It feels like if you can consistenly reball chips you can repair so many more things.
The one in the video is not a "direct heat" stencil. If you use hot air on it, it will permanently damage. I have tried direct heat stencils and they tend to get stuck to the IC afterwards, I prefer this method but it's a subjective comment :) BGA reworking is not simple, I've been experimenting for years and I'm still not succesfull.
excellent work!. Thanks for sharing your skill. What is the cleaning agent @9:00? Ok got it: iso propyl alcohol.@28:03 it looks to me as a nice job as well - you are allowed to brag about that!
Thanks for sharing, very detailed and smart, you see, I didn't even know I have to adjust the 4 levelling screws of the heavy jig. No wonder I am doing wrongly. Also, did you explain size of balls to use, do you have a smart way to judge it?
Yes, the adjustment is not clear at all. I think I discovered how to use it by watching other videos - also I figured I could not just drop the stencil on the greasy IC or I would make a mess! Ball size, well I usually google around, each chip has its own so I'm not sure there is an empirical way to test. That said, I guess it could be "guessable" with a calibrated microscope maybe? Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 I copy/pasted it: The Xbox 360 has multiple processor socket revisions, including: Jasper This revision introduced a 65 nm GPU, updated PSB Southbridge, and 256 MB and 512 MB NANDs in Arcade models. Elpis This revision was used to replace Xenon motherboards that were sent in for RROD repair. It had an updated GPU, but was otherwise the same as the Xenon. Tonasket This revision introduced a 65 nm eDRAM, a new Kronos GPU revision, and a new "XFreedom" RF-module. It also returned to the original GPU heatsink. Trinity This revision redesigned the motherboard for the Xbox 360 S. It combined the CPU and GPU into an XCGPU. Some versions also had a 4 GB daughterboard.
The Xbox 360's CPU has three identical cores that can execute two threads at the same time. This makes the CPU capable of executing six threads simultaneously.
Great video. All advises exposed here would have avoided me ending in a mental institution chasing my joined or misplaced balls for a couple of days straight while reballing a RTX 3070 chip...
@@tony359 I have applied your advice to some DDR chip reballing yesterday. It totally improved the result and I was able to revive my RTX 3070 card. Thanks a lot.
Just throwing this out here as a potential video idea, since you've got a proper BGA replacement setup... CPU socket replacement, maybe something Socket 771/775? 🤔
It's a simple alluminium plate resting on the pre-heater. This is because you don't want to work directly on the heating plates. There are cheap small "hot plates" available now which can be used to heat up an IC so melt the solder balls, @NorthWestRepair is using one and it's cool.
Thanks! Those nozzles are available online - but you want to make sure it fits your handle. They're not universal. My Quick has an adaptor for those which don't fit - or you can buy a Quick nozzle but the range is somehow limited. I hope this helps!
@@tony359Thanks for your reply. I have the same station. This nozzles have a certain name to search them because I found only universal and for othe hot air stations... could you tell me the site you bought it? Also one more query. Once the preheater reached 240C and the chip was on 130C; at this point the solder balls just barely melt (or completely melt?) in order to set in position to avoid to displaced (from the air of the hot air station) when you heat the BGA chip with the hot air?
I search on the google and shows me the below only where some of them are universal and some others for 862 but not for 861DE hot air station. Please could you tell me from where you bought it? "www.google.com/search?q=861+BGA+Nozzle+SMD+Hot+Air+Gun+Square+Nozzle&sca_esv=0d698074f6f147a8&udm=2&biw=1920&bih=911&sxsrf=ADLYWIJdrNGtD-EAcObue3q3bwgVXontLQ%3A1719098147309&ei=I1t3ZrLCEsitxc8P2-mVqAI&ved=0ahUKEwjy353Tq_CGAxXIVvEDHdt0BSUQ4dUDCBA&uact=5&oq=861+BGA+Nozzle+SMD+Hot+Air+Gun+Square+Nozzle&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiLDg2MSBCR0EgTm96emxlIFNNRCBIb3QgQWlyIEd1biBTcXVhcmUgTm96emxlSIIOUKcHWOoIcAF4AJABAJgBmgGgAawCqgEDMC4yuAEDyAEA-AEBmAIAoAIAmAMAiAYBkgcAoAda&sclient=gws-wiz-serp"
I still need to look into the solder paste as I can only find "low melt" one... Thank you for your comment and yes, that fun English moment was brought to my attention by a friend! LOL, totally unintentional! :D
That's a good question. I don't think you could use solder paste on a large IC like the one shown here - I think it would be impossible to hold the stencil steady while flowing the paste. But for tiny ICs like mobile ones, that's probably the only solution. I suppose that for "in between ICs" both methods would work and it's down to personal preferences. That said, I never tried reballing an IC with solder paste. Thanks for watching!
Nice video but I have a question... Should the size of the ball be the same as the hole in the stencil or smaller? That is, if the stencil is 0.6 does the ball have to be 0.6 or 0.55 micron ?
very important, never reuse balls that dropped on the table/ were pushed by flux-coated tweezers, they will never seperate again, also, the brush is a fan brush
@@tony359 :D ah, right, my bad...I can tell from some experience that i lost my patience quite often because some stencils (gtx 1080ti) you can hardly even on aliexpress find a proper 90mm verson to mount properly and even if, often times the mounts cant fit a 45mm chip, made me so mad when i wasted a few hundreds leaded solder balls for a few attempts
Hey Tony, I got a question. For thick and big chips like that, it seems you're very well equipped, but I'd like to ask you this, how would you go about reballing a much thinner and small chip such as the CYW4356XKUBG (aka BCM4356XKUBG) Wi-fi/Bluetooth chip? It's the one that "powers" (not to say curse) the Nintendo Switch. From removing factory solder balls to resoldering new ones, how would you do it?
Hello - I’m not sure how big those chips are but if they’re similar to GPU ram chips then you might want to take a look at my latest video! th-cam.com/video/LWdWm6zJDxA/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching!
Well done. When I reball, some balls solder to the stencil. How do you do a perfect reballing? I tried everything but nothing changed. Maybe the stencil is not good or I should use 138c solder paste. I need your advice.
The stencil I use here is not a direct heat one. It must be removed and the balls heated then. I did try with a super-cheap direct heat one and I had the same problem. That said, it's not the balls getting stuck - solder should not bond with the stencil. It's the flux. Try warming it up a bit before removing the stencil. But honestly I think the "non direct heat" ones are better - though they're a bit more tricky to use as you see in the video! Thanks for watching!
That's smaller than small I guess! I am not an expert but I think that for an iPhone you do use direct heat ones and solder PASTE, not balls. I've only seen that done on videos, I have no direct experience. Still, a stencil shouldn't bond to the solder. I think it's getting stuck to the flux. But honestly I don't have experience on that. Good luck! :)
So, how can we heat a chip up to these temperatures, but they can only reach half of this at the very most whilst running? Is it to do with stability of materials when voltage and heat are present?
BGA ICs are rated for those temperatures for a limited amount of time - like 30 seconds or so. This is why the actual reflow temperature should be maintained for as little as possible and can only be done a limited amount of times. The running temperatures are those which the ICs can withstand all the time, all their life. Thanks for watching!
@@adeldjamel5299 Can you share a link? My attempts with the one I have were poor and I don't see anybody using them online - besides for small phone ICs.
Popcorn is nothing? Only dead chip or imposible solder to pcb 😂. 320C its overkill, leaded balls max 225-230C lead free 245-250(who used? 🙈). I hope you are better now.
well if they don't go through the stencil, then either your stencil is damaged, your solder balls are too big for the stencil (the stencil should have written on it the right ball size) or your solder balls are bad quality/deformed. Are you sure your stencil is not just dirty? Thanks for watching.
This is the one I bought - I have no affiliation with the seller. www.aliexpress.com/item/32847165892.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.114.21ef1802k670r9 Reballing/Reflowing is difficult. Very difficult. Online videos make it look very easy but it's not. As a minimum you need a pre-heating machine and a good hot air station. This is at least my opinion :) Good luck!
No, I can't say I've been succesfull on that task. I'm still working on it. I'm planning to share my findings on a video at some point, watch this space! All I can say for now is: it's not as easy as getting a heat gun and blasting 500C at a PCB :)
Hi - I 3D printed it 🙂 I’m using the microscope arm and i (badly) designed an adaptor. I’ll show it on a video at some point, it works like charm as I’m using the focus adjustment to move the handle up and down. Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 awesome, I bought a cheap monitor arm and have my microscope mounted on that, but would love some mount to quickly being able to use the hot air station by hand and on a stand.
@@jacobtc I’ve been thinking a lot of a stand and I couldn’t find a good (cheap) solution. You want the nozzle to be stable and parallel to the board and to be able to move it up and down with ease. I could think of something that would keep the nozzle parallel but not easy to move, that is, it would require a little time to re-align it and you don’t have time while reflowing. One day I thought of my microscope arm - it’s a C-mount arm you can see here: th-cam.com/video/2Ag7E7KMR6s/w-d-xo.html All I did was to create a plastic collar which adapts the handle to the scope arm.
to be honest, I don't have a recommendation. I've always used the Amtech 559 - and wondering if I've ever used the real one . Coincidentally I've ordered a cheaper alternative one from Aliexpress just the other day. Watch this space! :)
@@tony359 Okay yes, thx for the fast answer :). The Amtech seems to be a common used flux. I actually found a nice "no-clean" flux the Topnik Zel, it seems pretty good for hald the price. You have tested this flux before ?
No, I don't think so. The amount of solder left on the chip is not going to be enough. Also, if the chip is lead-free, you really want to get rid of the lead-free solder and replace it with leaded. It will make the reflow MUCH simpler. Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 i have a chinese hotplate that can go below the motherboard , but idk if it could work , im using a donor z97 mb for the swap , im swaping the southbridge chipset , but i cant find any stencils nor know the solder ball size.
@@lietus4192 I usually google online to find the solder ball size, or you could ask some online communities. I do not know if there is a way to determine the size from the chip. If you've never done this before, my advice is: practice on some scrap boards first! It's not an easy task. Particularly with lead-free solder. I wish you luck of course!
I'm using my microscope C-mount stand, I 3D printed an adaptor for the quick handle. One day I'll share it with the community (the dimensions are not right at the moment so I cannot share it I'm afraid)
Thank you so much, Brexit Tory and Labour parties for Scottish Independence. We could not have done this without you. Kind regards, the Republic of Scotland, better together with Northern Ireland as Republics inside the EU, protecting us from English/British Brexit nationalists. We know how to take back control of our sovereignty. Hell Yeah.
I have watched your videos with some interest during for some time, and I´ve also subscribed. I watched this particular video perhaps two weaks ago. It´s obviously ment to be a joke of some missguided sort, and ment to be funny. Well, it´s not! Please cut this silliness out, and resume making regular videos as before, please.
@@evilborg I can give that a go for sure, thanks. One problem I might have is that I believe all my stencils are now NOT the ‘direct heat’ type so probably unsuitable for the solder paste?
@@evilborg I’m not comfortable in warming a chip stuck in a vice… it will try to expand! I’m not sure my jig is suitable for that. Others will be for sure. I’ve got some solder paste anyways to test - not on this jig though
great video, all reballing pitfalls are listed, thats the kind of videos a total beginner should see. thank you
I'm glad you liked it, thanks for your comment!
Give yourself some credit mate you really are very good at this, and it definitely shows that you have put in the hard work to get where you are now... excellent work and great teacher thanks very much! " subscribed " ✌
Hey thank you so much, very kind of you to say - thanks for watching and for the sub!
I made my own jig, using ample flux and a stencil just slightly bigger than spec and hot air blower with hand, I could do this under the scope without hassle.
you do need practice as said here , most importantly again emphasized here is clean tools, high quality flux and blower makes all the difference.
On smaller pin chips i even practiced placing balls manually after desoldering old ones, the key is to get dead boards and practice. two three times and voila you will be a professional
absolutely, practice is key. First attempt will be "why am I even trying" but it'll get better. Thanks for watching and congrats on your tests!
Fantastic work and such a well crafted video!
You’re always very kind, Ted! Thank you, appreciated!
One of my favorite bga jigs. For lifting the chip out I use a pair of tweezers where I bend them out really far in the middle and then bring the tips back in a little. Its annoying if you grab them for normal stuff since they do not close but its extremely useful for picking up bigger chips.
I see what you mean, I think I’ve seen them online (for sale!). I like this tool though. It does what it says. My main complaint is the four stand screws which are too loose, they should have had some sort of locking mechanism. Thanks for watching!
Excellent reballing. Gold medal for you!
Hey thank you so much!
Absolutely the best video on how this is done! Thank you
Thank you so much for your kind words!
Excellent video. To the point, professional, entertaining, educational.
Thanks for your kind words!
Fantastic video and great explanation. Not many explain in detail like this. Subscribed!
Thank you!
Hi Tony, worth mentioning that there is special flux available for BGA work it's designed to hold the balls in place after heating with hot air, a good one is Mechanic AD Series & CMOV 223 / 559 Soldering Flux Paste Kit NC-559 . there are others too. Bob
Thanks - it's difficult to navigate through all the available fluxes and all their copycats. The "mechanic" is all over the internet, I'm not sure which is genuine and which is not. Same for Amtech of course.
Most "high-viscosity" or "tacky" fluxes are suitable for the task. You want something that doesn't move the balls once they're in place. But I am not aware of a flux which does not liquefy once it's heated up. The trick - in my limited experience - is to apply a minimum amount just to keep the balls in place but not enough so that the balls float on it when it's heated up. Then apply again at the end once the balls are somehow bonded to the pads for a perfect bonding.
Thanks for watching!
I am glad I watched this before my jig arrived. Thank you for the video. 😁👍
You're very welcome and good luck!
Well done 👍
Can you please do a parts list, and links at least for the stencil and jig please?
Great explanation and example.
Thank you!
niiice! I use such a Jig for a year now, but the screw thing is new for me and sounds like a very logical step to get it work better :D will definitly try
You're welcome!
Recently bought a kit. Not with the brown...ish thing you got but the blue version. Im excited to finally do some proper stuff instead of just smacking it on and hoping
Cool, I hope you can master it too very soon!
Great video, very educational. Thank you for creating this!
Thank you!
"The next step is to grab your balls!" Love it 😂
one of my many language gaffes :) Won't be the last one for sure!
Good video, well explained and good technic. Thanks for your time and sharing your knowledge.
Thanks Martin, appreciated!
Awesome video, Tony! I learned a lot from this. I haven't ventured into the scary world of BGA work yet, but I feel like I'm going to need to learn these skills at some point! Your instructions were very clear and the end-result looked beautiful. Is your hot air station and pre-heating plate all that's needed to BGA chips reattached to the board/card reliably as well? My cheap handheld station is probably not going to cut it for this type of work.
I’m glad it helps someone understanding the process. I’ve been tinkering with BGA for many years now and yes, it’s a scary thing 😂
As long as your hot air handle can deliver uniform temps, that might be ok. For large nozzles you need that plus higher airflow. My previous station was a toy and I’ve only burnt things with that. The pre-heating plate is a must. That’s a fact. Smaller ICs are simpler to work on of course. Check out my GTX480 repair video where I do reball and attach an IC (with a working result) for the first time. th-cam.com/video/LWdWm6zJDxA/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching and for the nice comment!
@@tony359 Awesome, thanks Tony - will check it out 👍
Very good video. Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
I bought this little jig and used it with success. I followed ram update by dosdude1 (youtuber), this video and others. The little wheels on the side have a too course thread. Maybe just use shims instead. I agite the little jig by moving it around to get most of the balls on their place. I Also use a plate I can move to my pre heater and I first put the jig aside the plate (old satalite receiver case). I just use tweasers, but I reballed memory chips, there smaller. Anyways, I watched this and gotten further with my hobby. Thank you.
You're very welcome and thanks for watching!
the best 23:08, excellent
You're welcome thank you!
Insane video, very clear. Ty very much !
Glad you liked it thanks for watching!
put the jig on the heat plate to minimize the movement when transferring chip
thank you :)
Silly question. Couldnt you just melt the balls in the stencil so they cant move ? This is what i saw others do.
I still need to be succesful on my first reball. I tried a couple times but I think actually I just had the wrong tools. Now I got a IR preheater and I'm gonna try some more.
It feels like if you can consistenly reball chips you can repair so many more things.
The one in the video is not a "direct heat" stencil. If you use hot air on it, it will permanently damage. I have tried direct heat stencils and they tend to get stuck to the IC afterwards, I prefer this method but it's a subjective comment :)
BGA reworking is not simple, I've been experimenting for years and I'm still not succesfull.
excellent work!. Thanks for sharing your skill. What is the cleaning agent @9:00? Ok got it: iso propyl alcohol.@28:03 it looks to me as a nice job as well - you are allowed to brag about that!
ahah thanks! It actually took me some time to get there :)
Thanks for sharing, very detailed and smart, you see, I didn't even know I have to adjust the 4 levelling screws of the heavy jig. No wonder I am doing wrongly. Also, did you explain size of balls to use, do you have a smart way to judge it?
Yes, the adjustment is not clear at all. I think I discovered how to use it by watching other videos - also I figured I could not just drop the stencil on the greasy IC or I would make a mess! Ball size, well I usually google around, each chip has its own so I'm not sure there is an empirical way to test. That said, I guess it could be "guessable" with a calibrated microscope maybe? Thanks for watching!
Nice video mate, cheers. Been looking everywhere for that pronged chip lifter did you make or buy it from where please?
Good question. I know I didn't buy it myself, it must have come with one of the reballing jig I got.
Realy good skill 👍
I think Sony should have used a lever arm socket to hold the GPU instead of the balling.
Well, BGA is widely used everywhere - it saves space and money... But yes, imagine how easy it would be to be able to just replace the GPU like that!
@@tony359 I always used them when building PC's.
@@tony359 Maybe it would be easier to add such a socket and chip. Just a stray thought. I never had any processor problems ever.
@@tony359 Searched for sockets for it and found that there are many! I was surprised!
@@tony359 I copy/pasted it:
The Xbox 360 has multiple processor socket revisions, including:
Jasper
This revision introduced a 65 nm GPU, updated PSB Southbridge, and 256 MB and 512 MB NANDs in Arcade models.
Elpis
This revision was used to replace Xenon motherboards that were sent in for RROD repair. It had an updated GPU, but was otherwise the same as the Xenon.
Tonasket
This revision introduced a 65 nm eDRAM, a new Kronos GPU revision, and a new "XFreedom" RF-module. It also returned to the original GPU heatsink.
Trinity
This revision redesigned the motherboard for the Xbox 360 S. It combined the CPU and GPU into an XCGPU. Some versions also had a 4 GB daughterboard.
The Xbox 360's CPU has three identical cores that can execute two threads at the same time. This makes the CPU capable of executing six threads simultaneously.
Great video. All advises exposed here would have avoided me ending in a mental institution chasing my joined or misplaced balls for a couple of days straight while reballing a RTX 3070 chip...
oh my - I never tried such complex ones. I hope it worked for you!
I still need to experiment on XBOX and PS3! :)
Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 I have applied your advice to some DDR chip reballing yesterday. It totally improved the result and I was able to revive my RTX 3070 card. Thanks a lot.
@@DJSolitone oh wow, it's so cool! Thanks for letting me know and well done!
Wow this seems like a satisfying job, until you get balls everywhere 😅
Yes! The "secret" is to keep things as clean as possible! They'll still roll everywhere though...
that was hell lot of patience work
ahah yes, it takes a little patience indeed :)
Спасибо большое! Очень информативно, подробно, простым
языком!😊
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it!
Just throwing this out here as a potential video idea, since you've got a proper BGA replacement setup...
CPU socket replacement, maybe something Socket 771/775? 🤔
that's not "old junk" anymore, where's the fun in that? :) Just kidding, never considered that, thanks for the idea!
Great work. Thank you
You're very welcome!
Awesome thank you that is really well done
Thank you!
Thanks for showing this
Thanks for watching!
Thanks very informative ❤
Glad you enjoyed it :)
good evening is this useful for bga 153 and 169 mesh 0.15mm thank you
Thankyou for your video, do you have any tips on replacing chips back on to pcb board? Striggling with temperature to make the chip mount
Thank you for watching. What board is that, what hot air station and what temps/airflow are you using?
That preheating aluminum plate... do you use this when the bottom heatng circuit boards, too? Is it something you made or bought?
It's a simple alluminium plate resting on the pre-heater. This is because you don't want to work directly on the heating plates. There are cheap small "hot plates" available now which can be used to heat up an IC so melt the solder balls, @NorthWestRepair is using one and it's cool.
@tony359 i did see that video, he also has a tiny ultrasonic for cleaning chips that looks interesting too. Thanks for the info!
Very useful video... Could you tell us the name of the hot air nozzle or a part number or where you bought it?
Thanks! Those nozzles are available online - but you want to make sure it fits your handle. They're not universal. My Quick has an adaptor for those which don't fit - or you can buy a Quick nozzle but the range is somehow limited. I hope this helps!
@@tony359Thanks for your reply. I have the same station. This nozzles have a certain name to search them because I found only universal and for othe hot air stations... could you tell me the site you bought it? Also one more query. Once the preheater reached 240C and the chip was on 130C; at this point the solder balls just barely melt (or completely melt?) in order to set in position to avoid to displaced (from the air of the hot air station) when you heat the BGA chip with the hot air?
I search on the google and shows me the below only where some of them are universal and some others for 862 but not for 861DE hot air station. Please could you tell me from where you bought it? "www.google.com/search?q=861+BGA+Nozzle+SMD+Hot+Air+Gun+Square+Nozzle&sca_esv=0d698074f6f147a8&udm=2&biw=1920&bih=911&sxsrf=ADLYWIJdrNGtD-EAcObue3q3bwgVXontLQ%3A1719098147309&ei=I1t3ZrLCEsitxc8P2-mVqAI&ved=0ahUKEwjy353Tq_CGAxXIVvEDHdt0BSUQ4dUDCBA&uact=5&oq=861+BGA+Nozzle+SMD+Hot+Air+Gun+Square+Nozzle&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiLDg2MSBCR0EgTm96emxlIFNNRCBIb3QgQWlyIEd1biBTcXVhcmUgTm96emxlSIIOUKcHWOoIcAF4AJABAJgBmgGgAawCqgEDMC4yuAEDyAEA-AEBmAIAoAIAmAMAiAYBkgcAoAda&sclient=gws-wiz-serp"
Adafruit Accessories Quick NK-850 Hot Air Rework Conversion Nozzle
@@tony359 SMD Hot Air Gun BGA Nozzle for SaiKe YiHua Gordak 850 852D 952D 909D 853D 862D 8305
Nice work, I wouldn't bother with the solder paste if this works well for you! "Grab your balls" haha
I still need to look into the solder paste as I can only find "low melt" one... Thank you for your comment and yes, that fun English moment was brought to my attention by a friend! LOL, totally unintentional! :D
What is the advantage of the balls over using solder paste?
That's a good question. I don't think you could use solder paste on a large IC like the one shown here - I think it would be impossible to hold the stencil steady while flowing the paste. But for tiny ICs like mobile ones, that's probably the only solution. I suppose that for "in between ICs" both methods would work and it's down to personal preferences. That said, I never tried reballing an IC with solder paste. Thanks for watching!
You don’t want to stress the balls.
Awesome brother I like your work I am calling from india ❤
Thank you!
Nice video but I have a question... Should the size of the ball be the same as the hole in the stencil or smaller? That is, if the stencil is 0.6 does the ball have to be 0.6 or 0.55 micron ?
From my understanding if the stencil says 0.6, it will work with 0.6 - that is, the holes are larger than 0.6. Thanks for watching!
Fun fact when he said "the next step is to grab your balls" 🤣🤣🤣 ... Man i was grabbing my balls when he said that 🤣🤣
Oh yes, I do say weird things from time to time! :) Thanks for watching!
Great Video! I’m assuming there is a PS3 gpu stencil too!
Yes, I have it somewhere! Thanks for watching!
very important, never reuse balls that dropped on the table/ were pushed by flux-coated tweezers, they will never seperate again, also, the brush is a fan brush
ah yes, that is part of "keep everything clean" :)
Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 :D ah, right, my bad...I can tell from some experience that i lost my patience quite often because some stencils (gtx 1080ti) you can hardly even on aliexpress find a proper 90mm verson to mount properly and even if, often times the mounts cant fit a 45mm chip, made me so mad when i wasted a few hundreds leaded solder balls for a few attempts
I can relate to that, reballing with those stencils takes a LOT of patience. A lot! and things will go wrong the first few times.
Thank you help full
Hey Tony, I got a question. For thick and big chips like that, it seems you're very well equipped, but I'd like to ask you this, how would you go about reballing a much thinner and small chip such as the CYW4356XKUBG (aka BCM4356XKUBG) Wi-fi/Bluetooth chip? It's the one that "powers" (not to say curse) the Nintendo Switch. From removing factory solder balls to resoldering new ones, how would you do it?
Hello - I’m not sure how big those chips are but if they’re similar to GPU ram chips then you might want to take a look at my latest video! th-cam.com/video/LWdWm6zJDxA/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching!
Well done. When I reball, some balls solder to the stencil. How do you do a perfect reballing? I tried everything but nothing changed. Maybe the stencil is not good or I should use 138c solder paste. I need your advice.
The stencil I use here is not a direct heat one. It must be removed and the balls heated then. I did try with a super-cheap direct heat one and I had the same problem. That said, it's not the balls getting stuck - solder should not bond with the stencil. It's the flux. Try warming it up a bit before removing the stencil. But honestly I think the "non direct heat" ones are better - though they're a bit more tricky to use as you see in the video! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359, thank you very much for your advice. I am trying to reball an iPhone cpu.
That's smaller than small I guess! I am not an expert but I think that for an iPhone you do use direct heat ones and solder PASTE, not balls. I've only seen that done on videos, I have no direct experience. Still, a stencil shouldn't bond to the solder. I think it's getting stuck to the flux. But honestly I don't have experience on that. Good luck! :)
Good job!
Thank you!
Great video thank you 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you for watching!
What temp do you use on the soldering iron to not damage the chip?
360C - make sure you don't insist on the IC for too long, keep moving.
So, how can we heat a chip up to these temperatures, but they can only reach half of this at the very most whilst running? Is it to do with stability of materials when voltage and heat are present?
BGA ICs are rated for those temperatures for a limited amount of time - like 30 seconds or so. This is why the actual reflow temperature should be maintained for as little as possible and can only be done a limited amount of times. The running temperatures are those which the ICs can withstand all the time, all their life. Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 makes sense, thank you for your in-depth reply
Hello my friend, can you make a video of HM65 reball?
If that refers to the HM65 chipset, I'm afraid I don't have one! Thanks for watching!
Good video but using direct heat stencils and good hot air station will save more time
Never been successful with them. Online I see them used for small ICs only. You might be referring to those, used with solder paste?
@@tony359 il use them with solder Ball for bigger ic like ps4 apu and ps3 gpu and solder paste for smaller lire ram and southbridge hana chip
@@adeldjamel5299 Can you share a link? My attempts with the one I have were poor and I don't see anybody using them online - besides for small phone ICs.
@tony359 I use them since 2015
@tony359 I sent you a link but I don't know why it can't be sent
i try laptop reballing but all balls (0,5) stay up and don't go down ! why? bad balls dimension quality ? or stencil ?
each IC/stencil needs a specific size of balls, check what the stencil says
Popcorn is nothing? Only dead chip or imposible solder to pcb 😂. 320C its overkill, leaded balls max 225-230C lead free 245-250(who used? 🙈). I hope you are better now.
thats so goood!, i sub. btw im dave im 14 years old now i love techs
Welcome Dave!
very nice
Thank you!
let me know one thing that when I put reballing balls in stencil, but some balls stuck in the stencil and doesnt pass. what does it mean?
well if they don't go through the stencil, then either your stencil is damaged, your solder balls are too big for the stencil (the stencil should have written on it the right ball size) or your solder balls are bad quality/deformed. Are you sure your stencil is not just dirty? Thanks for watching.
hi where did you buy the reballing jig and stencil? great vid btw....
Thank you! I got then from Aliexpress, I’ll find the exact listing.
@@tony359 thanks so much...i want to learn about gpu repair..it would be nice to have someone to ask questions about the topic...
This is the one I bought - I have no affiliation with the seller. www.aliexpress.com/item/32847165892.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.114.21ef1802k670r9
Reballing/Reflowing is difficult. Very difficult. Online videos make it look very easy but it's not. As a minimum you need a pre-heating machine and a good hot air station.
This is at least my opinion :) Good luck!
@@tony359 have you done it yourself with sucess? and do you have a discord or telegram where i can chat with you, if its ok with you?
No, I can't say I've been succesfull on that task. I'm still working on it. I'm planning to share my findings on a video at some point, watch this space! All I can say for now is: it's not as easy as getting a heat gun and blasting 500C at a PCB :)
What are You doing with the used gloves?
I re-use them until they break! :)
Using solder paste is a better method
do not use that soldering iron,you might overheat chips.
Why?
Hey! I have the same hot air station, where did you get the holder you use for top heating?
Hi - I 3D printed it 🙂 I’m using the microscope arm and i (badly) designed an adaptor. I’ll show it on a video at some point, it works like charm as I’m using the focus adjustment to move the handle up and down. Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 awesome, I bought a cheap monitor arm and have my microscope mounted on that, but would love some mount to quickly being able to use the hot air station by hand and on a stand.
@@jacobtc I’ve been thinking a lot of a stand and I couldn’t find a good (cheap) solution. You want the nozzle to be stable and parallel to the board and to be able to move it up and down with ease. I could think of something that would keep the nozzle parallel but not easy to move, that is, it would require a little time to re-align it and you don’t have time while reflowing.
One day I thought of my microscope arm - it’s a C-mount arm you can see here: th-cam.com/video/2Ag7E7KMR6s/w-d-xo.html
All I did was to create a plastic collar which adapts the handle to the scope arm.
Should I buy the lead free or normal lead solder balls for reballing?
100% lead solder. Lead free solder melts 40C higher than lead solder.
How to determine the size of bga balls to use
I google it :) If the info is not available then I do not know :)
So thanks
You're welcome!
THANKS A LOT
You're more than welcome!
Hi Tony, what a thickness of stencil? Thanks
ah - good question. I got those with the jig. I measured them for you and they are 0.3mm. Can you buy different thickness?
Which flux can you recommand ? is there any cheap flux aswell ?
to be honest, I don't have a recommendation. I've always used the Amtech 559 - and wondering if I've ever used the real one . Coincidentally I've ordered a cheaper alternative one from Aliexpress just the other day. Watch this space! :)
@@tony359 Okay yes, thx for the fast answer :).
The Amtech seems to be a common used flux. I actually found a nice "no-clean" flux the Topnik Zel, it seems pretty good for hald the price. You have tested this flux before ?
No I haven't!
Do you think a chip can be removed from a motherboard to another board without a reball ?
No, I don't think so. The amount of solder left on the chip is not going to be enough. Also, if the chip is lead-free, you really want to get rid of the lead-free solder and replace it with leaded. It will make the reflow MUCH simpler. Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 i have a chinese hotplate that can go below the motherboard , but idk if it could work , im using a donor z97 mb for the swap , im swaping the southbridge chipset , but i cant find any stencils nor know the solder ball size.
@@lietus4192 I usually google online to find the solder ball size, or you could ask some online communities. I do not know if there is a way to determine the size from the chip. If you've never done this before, my advice is: practice on some scrap boards first! It's not an easy task. Particularly with lead-free solder. I wish you luck of course!
how does the quick station attach to the pre-heater?
I'm using my microscope C-mount stand, I 3D printed an adaptor for the quick handle. One day I'll share it with the community (the dimensions are not right at the moment so I cannot share it I'm afraid)
@@tony359 awesome I see I was wondering since the images online didn’t show a stand . Thanks for the really insightful video. Subbed 😝
Thank you!
I know that stand could be useful and I'd love to share it. It's on my to-do list! :)
Thank you so much, Brexit Tory and Labour parties for Scottish Independence. We could not have done this without you. Kind regards, the Republic of Scotland, better together with Northern Ireland as Republics inside the EU, protecting us from English/British Brexit nationalists. We know how to take back control of our sovereignty. Hell Yeah.
I didn't know reballing an IC could do so much! :)
Please my name is Kenny Sony please I need one of this tin
I have watched your videos with some interest during for some time, and I´ve also subscribed. I watched this particular video perhaps two weaks ago. It´s obviously ment to be a joke of some missguided sort, and ment to be funny. Well, it´s not! Please cut this silliness out, and resume making regular videos as before, please.
Thanks for watching!
01000111 01001111 00100000 01000001 01010111 01000001 01011001 00100000 01000010 01001111 01010100
amazing! :D
solder paste is much easier and faster
I don’t have it but I was thinking of trying it. That said, I could only find ‘low temp melt’ paste online?
@@tony359 yup that should be ok for learning how to use it
@@evilborg I can give that a go for sure, thanks. One problem I might have is that I believe all my stencils are now NOT the ‘direct heat’ type so probably unsuitable for the solder paste?
@@tony359 correct... you will need to get new stencils for direct heat
@@evilborg I’m not comfortable in warming a chip stuck in a vice… it will try to expand! I’m not sure my jig is suitable for that. Others will be for sure. I’ve got some solder paste anyways to test - not on this jig though
My name is Kenny Sony
Please I need one of this
💚perfecto
excellent and clean job thanx a bunch.
Thank you for watching!