Thanks for the video Frank,what a huge piece of timber. Great job and well executed. It didn’t look very burl like. Here in Australia our male and eucalypt burls have a lot more burl character and tight swirly grains with lots of little bud intrusions. I didn’t like the pink stain either, and the blue was a little too dark for my liking. I agree the Lucas and Taylor tools from hamlet are excellent. I wish that we could get the US Thompson tools here at a reasonable price.
Thanks, yes, this is a softwood burl and it does not have a lot of figure. That is kind of typical of the softwoods. On the other hand, our maple, cherry, ash and poplar burls typically have a lot more interesting burl grain and inclusions.
Terrific video, Frank. Thank You. Yes, pitch can be a pain. I've had good result with the THOUGHTFUL use of a heat gun on pitch patches. I apply heat until the pitch 'boils'...the smell of turpentine is obvious......and continue until the 'boiling' stops. When the VOC is gone the pitch cools/hardens to a sandable condition. Trial & error practice on pitchy construction lumber (2x4s) is recommended.
great idea, I never thought of that. in the past I have tried to wet sand with mineral spirits and the open abranet sanding mesh and that worked somewhat. but I like your idea better
Hi frank would it help to cut in a recess into the front of the bowl before coring this would then let you work on the bottom to cut you tendon or recess. Lovely work some fantastic bowls👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 or did you do this and I missed it
Thanks, yes, good idea for a solid core, but most of my cores are multiple cores so there is no front part/top of bowl to put a recess or tenon on the front. I just use a jam chuck when the piece is dry and it works well to true up a bottom tenon or to put one on if there is not one there already.
The dye really brought out some nice grain patterns, beautiful. The large salad bowl is very beautiful also. This was an enjoyable video. Thank you!
Thanks
Very Nice. Another great video. A fine piece of art.
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Absolutely beautiful! Thanks for sharing ❤️ 👍 😊. GBU
Thanks
Thanks for the video Frank,what a huge piece of timber. Great job and well executed.
It didn’t look very burl like.
Here in Australia our male and eucalypt burls have a lot more burl character and tight swirly grains with lots of little bud intrusions.
I didn’t like the pink stain either, and the blue was a little too dark for my liking.
I agree the Lucas and Taylor tools from hamlet are excellent. I wish that we could get the US Thompson tools here at a reasonable price.
Thanks, yes, this is a softwood burl and it does not have a lot of figure. That is kind of typical of the softwoods. On the other hand, our maple, cherry, ash and poplar burls typically have a lot more interesting burl grain and inclusions.
Terrific video, Frank. Thank You. Yes, pitch can be a pain. I've had good result with the THOUGHTFUL use of a heat gun on pitch patches. I apply heat until the pitch 'boils'...the smell of turpentine is obvious......and continue until the 'boiling' stops. When the VOC is gone the pitch cools/hardens to a sandable condition. Trial & error practice on pitchy construction lumber (2x4s) is recommended.
great idea, I never thought of that. in the past I have tried to wet sand with mineral spirits and the open abranet sanding mesh and that worked somewhat. but I like your idea better
Hi frank would it help to cut in a recess into the front of the bowl before coring this would then let you work on the bottom to cut you tendon or recess.
Lovely work some fantastic bowls👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 or did you do this and I missed it
Thanks, yes, good idea for a solid core, but most of my cores are multiple cores so there is no front part/top of bowl to put a recess or tenon on the front. I just use a jam chuck when the piece is dry and it works well to true up a bottom tenon or to put one on if there is not one there already.