Perkins 4-108 Raw Water Pump Rebuild | Step by Step with Part Numbers [EP 101]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video, I show you how to completely rebuild your Sherwood G65, Perkins 4-108, raw water pump. I provide you part numbers and places to purchase the parts needed to rebuild your raw water pump.
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Sherwood Pump Identification Chart:
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Impeller Replacement Kit:
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Major Rebuild Kit: Westerbeke Number is the same for the Perkins
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Impeller replacement kit parts: #09959K-SHW
Impeller major rebuild kit: Westerbeke #0181172
Sherwood G65 kit: #12221
Very nicely done
Thank you and thank you for taking the time to comment
Very helpful. Thank you
You are welcome
great mate thank you
You’re welcome
Same engine, same boat, same issues. It has been a while since I took my pump and timing gear cover off. I needed to find a new cover because the pump leaked and rusted out the cover. I was hoping you would show the support ring with studs that are behind the cover, and thereby affirm my memory how it goes back together. My engine has not run in 14 years, but everything SO FAR seems fine. It turns over easy, the rockers needed a little lubrication assistance, I rebuilt the injectors, replaced the alt., lift pump and freshwater pump, and I am now letting it soak in oil. I think while it soaks i'll rebuild the pump. Your videos are a great. I did the valve lashing with your assistance, thank you. I've talked to a master mechanic/friend about the HP pump, and asked if I should rebuild, he thinks it will be fine. I told him I was going to lubricate it with Lucas, he suggested Marvel Mystery Oil and fuel treatment, so I will prime it with a mix of MM oil and diesel... Thanks, keep up the videos.
You might want to have your injectors tested before you put them in. This is to give you confidence that they are not over fueling which will wash cylinders and take out bearing. Also causing fuel to get into the oil pan. Just a thought.
Thanks for taking the time to comment.
I will see what I can do about making a video about the studs for you.
@@SailingtheWestWind No need, thank's though.
This video is very informative. Thanks for making it. I have never rebuilt a pump like that before but it looks like some pump lube would be in order for the impeller vanes. Great video!
Thank you very much. Any other Perkins related or other you want a video on?
Grant
@@SailingtheWestWind Not at the moment. Thanks. My engine has an Oberdorfer raw water pump and is very similar. I haven't had time to work on it yet.
Great video Grant
Thanks buddy
Nice job great info for the rebuilding of the pump.
Thanks buddy.
There are a bunch of things done badly here. 0. Get a slotted screwdriver that fits the size of your screws, especially if they're a bit stuck. 1. Put the pump body in a vise and get a couple of pairs of needle-nose or vice grips (or better still, large hemostats) to pull out the impeller -- DON'T pry with a screwdriver against the soft bronze pump body, as you can raise burrs on it. You can see the shiny bits of bronze where your screwdriver has marrred it A little WD-40 can help you get started. Driving out the shaft isn't a viable approach when you need only to replace the impeller, so you might as well learn to do it right. 2. The slot in the shaft fits over a tab on a gear inside the engine. The end of that tab needs to NOT be pressing against the bottom of the slot in the shaft. So getting the shaft in all the way to the right depth matters -- it's best to measure how far it sticks out before you start. A basic set of digital calipers from Harbor Freight will let you do this. 3. When you drive the shaft out of the pump, don't rest HALF of it on your bench and hammer: get a board, drill a hole in it a little larger than the shaft, and rest the pump on that board while you drive out the shaft, so that it's supported all around and the driving force ends up straight down. 4. Driving the seal out with a screwdriver just wounds my soul. Get a socket that JUST fits through the hole and drive it out nice and square 5. At 14:00, rubbing those beautiful machined faces against something like 60-grit sandpaper is just a crime. 400-grit, followed by 600 and then 1000, on a piece of plate glass...totally reasonable. 60-grit, filling it with scratches...ugh! 6. At 15:21, when you extract that screw, you should also be extracting the copper crush-washer that makes a seal at this critical location. You can see that crush washer on the replacement screw early in the video, or at 19:11. Putting the old one back in was a stroke of luck for you, because the old crush-washer is probably stuck in the socket. 7. At 16:22, you want to run your finger around the edge of the seal, to make sure that the metal edge of the seal isn't sticking up at all into the space the impeller will occupy. 8. at 17:00 is the biggest sin of all: when you press bearings into a socket, you want to press on the OUTER RACE of the bearings, because otherwise you're putting an axial load on them for which they were not designed, AND you may be repositioning the shaft relative to the bearings (if the inner race slips along the shaft). You need to find a socket large enough to fit around the slotted shaft-end, so that when you tap on it, it's tapping on the outer race (i.e., outermost metal part) of the bearings. And when you do this, you'll want to check that the protruding shaft-end, when you're done, is sticking out the right amount, as measured in step 2. 9. If the half-moon key keeps falling out during installation, you can stick it in place with a little honey or a very thin piece of paper, both of which will dissolve in not much running time. To make it easier to insert the impeller, use two zip-ties to collapse the blades (the direction doesn't matter!), about 1/3 and 2/3 of the way along. Put the impeller in a little, cut the first zip-tie, push in a little more, cut the second, and you're done. To make that whole step easier, lubricate with a LITTLE dishwashing liquid. 10. at 21:40, you say to never use silicone, and if you mean "never use the kind of silicone sealant used for aquariums, etc.", that's correct. But RTV is, in fact, a silicone adhesive sealant. On the plus side, there are a bunch of good things here --- the advice to remove the half-moon key before installing the shaft, the careful discussion of which way the seal is oriented, the use of a wood block rather than hammering on the metal face (although a hardwood scrap is likely to be more effective than the softwood shown). The introductory discussion of where leaks can occur is good, although it'd be nice if you said "leaks from the front plate or screws...you can probably fix with an impeller kit, which has a new gasket that'll take care of things; a leak from one of the weep-holes farther back means you need a rebuild kit. And a leak from the screw at the top of the pump...that MIGHT just mean you need a new crush-washer, or maybe you need a rebuild kit." For those replacing the front thin paper gasket, BTW, removing the old gasket without scratching the pump body is a pain, and scratches lead to leaks. The magic trick is to use a little bit of oven-cleaner (spray it into a disposable plastic cup outside; use an 'acid brush" or Q-tip to dab it on to the pump body or cover plate wherever the paper gasket is sticking, and wait 20 minutes or so. You should be able to remove the residue easily with the straight edge of a plastic picnic knife or something equivalently soft -- NOT a metal putty knife! Now you might say "Look, he did this stuff and it all worked ... why are you being so picky?" Well, we don't actually know that it worked, but I do know that scratches can lead to leaks, driving in a bearing by putting axial loads on it is bad, sometimes seals or bearings are stuck into the pump body badly enough that getting them out is really tough, and skewing them a little can make it nearly impossible, and that the depth of the seal and the shaft are critical: a bad shaft-depth can really mess up the gear-train that drives the shaft. So: can you get away with this approach? Sure, if you're lucky. But if you want to avoid trusting to luck, you might want to do the work in a way less likely to lead to troubles.
Thank you for taking the time to comment. I appreciate you for that.
Trying to pry out an impeller with a screwdriver???? Dude clearly has never replaced an impeller before. As you mentioned the depth of the shaft needs to be measured. The previous owner of my boat did not measure the depth the shaft depth. The water pump shaft and drive gear in the engine stripped each other.....IN THE MIDDLE OF HE GULF OF MEXICO.
@@SOLDOZER Thank you for you're reply, I appreciate it, I really do. I know a screw driver is not the best way to remove the impeller, especially after the engine had sat for 22 years. I was trying to do this video quickly. The issue you talk about does not apply to a Sherwood G65 pump.
johnhughes1595 The following is intended as a respectful comment not a criticism in any way. After reading your in-depth comment I clicked on your profile hoping to find similar how-to videos but did not find any. If you would take the time to produce your own hot-to videos people like me, and many others, would be very grateful. Reading about things is fine but many people are visual learners, meaning they absorb information and material better by watching than by reading. Please take this comment as an encouragement to share your experience and knowledge, through your own videos, with the rest of us who are VERY interested.
-Respectully
Great video! The one thing I noticed with my newer impeller replace kit 09959K-SHW is that the impeller vanes are thinner, and I'm wondering if this will reduce the pumping pressure of the impeller and the overall water flow.
It shouldn’t. It could technically fail sooner. Keep her extra one or two with you as well as an O-ring.
Grant: very informative. Between your demonstration and tips from JohnHughes, I'm confident that I can do this job when the time comes.
Thank you. Glad it helps. That’s the only reason I made this video. Let me know if there’s something else you want to see.
Grant
I’ll probably never rebuild a water pump but nice video anyway. Lite blue might be your color…
Thanks buddy
When mounting the pump back onto the engine block do you have to do anything with the timing of the internal gears to realign them or do you simply rotate the key on the pump to match the knob inside the motor housing and set the pump in place with the bolts?
No timing involved
@@SailingtheWestWind so simply match up the key in the pump assembly with the gear on the motor block?
Yes. It doesn’t matter which way it goes in. It can go in two different directions.