Hi, I installed your power saver and I’m having a couple of issues. . 1. Is the Blueghozt module suppose to stay on at all time’s regardless, even when the car is off? 2. I’m using the blueghozt plus and decided to only use the one wire trigger method but on the lightning bolt section it doesn’t show any amperage.and at times I’m also getting a yellow message at the top of the app saying “connect power to 12v pin” 3. When using one wire trigger method does the blueghozt need to be powered at the sw+ and ground for it to detect the trigger from the power saver, considering those switches are considered external? Because if so then technically it wouldn’t be a one wire method then, no? 4. Right now the A button does trigger but just a random set of colors on the tail lights but no shows and the B button isn’t doing anything
1. with this wiring layout the blueghozt will stay on, the controller alone only draws 0.03amps so this does not generally present a problem. 2. Did you connect the power to the 12v switch power input? 3. Yes, you need to run 12v power to the sw+ since that is not connected to the main board power. Ground is not needed, only needed on the main ground. Its 1 wire to the battery saver trigger which i would consider a 1 wire method. Technically its still got a dozen wires running all over the place, this just cuts it down from 3 triggers to 1. 4. The A button triggers the EXT trigger on the ghozt, you still have to pin show modes to that trigger. i cover that in detail in this video along with many other questions that im sure you will have. th-cam.com/video/Wds6fru1LLU/w-d-xo.html
Question; if someone for whatever reason couldn't buy this particular battery saver that you designed, regarding using the Blueghozt for underglow, would you recommend that they run their turn signal/brake wires through a normal relay before it hits the Blueghozt controller to reduce the load on the factory wires that you had to tap into, because in an underglow setup that tapped wire is in a chain of hundreds of LEDs? Or do you think it works fine if you just tap into your factory turn signal wires and run that new tapped wire directly into the turn signal inputs on the Blueghozt and not through a relay? Thanks so much.
We have developed the power saver to be the perfect solution for cutting power to the leds on a build. Using any other methods is not recommended nor supported by next Level Neo.
@NextLevelNeo I'm not talking about cutting power to the LEDs... I'm asking if you think it's necessary to run the factory turn signal wires through a relay for underglow to lessen the load on the factory wiring when the turn signals are triggered? Or if you weren't using a NLN power saver, would you recommend just running the junction wire you make from the factory turn signal wire directly into the Blueghozt? I'm also trying to better understand the full functionality of the NLN power saver... Does the relay on the NLN power saver activate when the turn signals are used? Does the junction wire from the factory turn signal wires go into the NLN power saver first, and then the relay activates when the turn signal is engaged and it allows the trigger power to pass through to the turn signal input on the Blueghozt? Thanks
So does the relay on NLN power saver activate when the turn signals are activated while driving? Again I'm just trying to better understand the functionality of your product before I purchase. Thanks
@imdbtruth there are 3 triggers that can be run to any signal. If any one of the 3 triggers get a 12v signal the relay will be turned on. Most cars have running lights, pretty much the law since the 90s. You should have 1 of the 3 triggers ran to that running light power wire. If you do then the relay will already be on and the input from the turn signals won't matter.
Thanks for your help... I think I understand the device now, please correct me if my summary is incorrect. The device is basically a remote kill switch for your lights so they don't draw power when "off", but the special thing about this kill switch or "battery saver" is that it has multiple (3) trigger wire inputs that allow the load device to turn on, whereas most similar devices only have a single (1) trigger input? And the other unique thing about this device is that it also has a built in 15 seconds shut-off delay for the load, whereas normally this functionality is not usually built-in to battery saver type devices and would typically require an additional device to achieve this function?
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Another great video! Do you make your own custom diffusers?
I actually have a video on diffusion. I do when i need to but the ones in this video were factory acrylic
@@NextLevelNeo thanks for the reply, i love your videos! Im just starting my own build thanks to your tips.
❤
Hi, I installed your power saver and I’m having a couple of issues. .
1. Is the Blueghozt module suppose to stay on at all time’s regardless, even when the car is off?
2. I’m using the blueghozt plus and decided to only use the one wire trigger method but on the lightning bolt section it doesn’t show any amperage.and at times I’m also getting a yellow message at the top of the app saying “connect power to 12v pin”
3. When using one wire trigger method does the blueghozt need to be powered at the sw+ and ground for it to detect the trigger from the power saver, considering those switches are considered external? Because if so then technically it wouldn’t be a one wire method then, no?
4. Right now the A button does trigger but just a random set of colors on the tail lights but no shows and the B button isn’t doing anything
1. with this wiring layout the blueghozt will stay on, the controller alone only draws 0.03amps so this does not generally present a problem.
2. Did you connect the power to the 12v switch power input?
3. Yes, you need to run 12v power to the sw+ since that is not connected to the main board power. Ground is not needed, only needed on the main ground. Its 1 wire to the battery saver trigger which i would consider a 1 wire method. Technically its still got a dozen wires running all over the place, this just cuts it down from 3 triggers to 1.
4. The A button triggers the EXT trigger on the ghozt, you still have to pin show modes to that trigger. i cover that in detail in this video along with many other questions that im sure you will have. th-cam.com/video/Wds6fru1LLU/w-d-xo.html
Question; if someone for whatever reason couldn't buy this particular battery saver that you designed, regarding using the Blueghozt for underglow, would you recommend that they run their turn signal/brake wires through a normal relay before it hits the Blueghozt controller to reduce the load on the factory wires that you had to tap into, because in an underglow setup that tapped wire is in a chain of hundreds of LEDs?
Or do you think it works fine if you just tap into your factory turn signal wires and run that new tapped wire directly into the turn signal inputs on the Blueghozt and not through a relay?
Thanks so much.
We have developed the power saver to be the perfect solution for cutting power to the leds on a build. Using any other methods is not recommended nor supported by next Level Neo.
@NextLevelNeo I'm not talking about cutting power to the LEDs... I'm asking if you think it's necessary to run the factory turn signal wires through a relay for underglow to lessen the load on the factory wiring when the turn signals are triggered? Or if you weren't using a NLN power saver, would you recommend just running the junction wire you make from the factory turn signal wire directly into the Blueghozt?
I'm also trying to better understand the full functionality of the NLN power saver... Does the relay on the NLN power saver activate when the turn signals are used? Does the junction wire from the factory turn signal wires go into the NLN power saver first, and then the relay activates when the turn signal is engaged and it allows the trigger power to pass through to the turn signal input on the Blueghozt?
Thanks
So does the relay on NLN power saver activate when the turn signals are activated while driving? Again I'm just trying to better understand the functionality of your product before I purchase. Thanks
@imdbtruth there are 3 triggers that can be run to any signal. If any one of the 3 triggers get a 12v signal the relay will be turned on. Most cars have running lights, pretty much the law since the 90s. You should have 1 of the 3 triggers ran to that running light power wire. If you do then the relay will already be on and the input from the turn signals won't matter.
Thanks for your help... I think I understand the device now, please correct me if my summary is incorrect.
The device is basically a remote kill switch for your lights so they don't draw power when "off", but the special thing about this kill switch or "battery saver" is that it has multiple (3) trigger wire inputs that allow the load device to turn on, whereas most similar devices only have a single (1) trigger input?
And the other unique thing about this device is that it also has a built in 15 seconds shut-off delay for the load, whereas normally this functionality is not usually built-in to battery saver type devices and would typically require an additional device to achieve this function?