Both Brothers are to be highly valued for their contributions to safety in one of the most challenging and dangerous industries in the world. Thank you for your videos, excellent production work!
I stopped a previous video you shared and clicked on the link you mention this video. I don't like this method for me. It worked and your great with this style but as a family of loggers I wouldn't run the saw straight in and then around and then wedge. Cut the back and let her fall. Now I'll go back and watch your explanation. Awesome video. It's about learning and sharing after all. Thank you for taking the time to do both very well so far sir.
Safety tip, I learned long time ago that before you even start the chainsaw that the first thing you do is to decide where you want it to fall, the second thing you do is to walk around the tree looking up at the branches. When you look up you'll see if it's even possible to drop the tree where you'd like it to land but more importantly you're looking for "Widow makers". These are lose branches that are still hanging in the tree but could become dislodged during the cutting process, if they do they're likely to kill you, hence the term "Widow makers". Historically hundreds of lumber jacks have lost their lives like this, and it still happens these days to inexperienced or careless ones. NIOSH says that they are responsible for 11% of all chainsaw deaths. Remember to look up before you cut!
Good point always check which way you want and need to fell it safely but don't forget check to see which is your escape route if it goes wrong. If not make an escape route
You are awesome! Your explanations are logical, and you demonstration (with admitted flaws) are first rate. This is coming from a Canadian who has done this for over 60 years.
Hi! I want to thank you so very much for your videos. You provide much needed information in a humble and direct manner. You give the reasons and your experience for each suggestion, as well as demonstrating some common mistakes and how to avoid them. I'm very new to homesteading; I inherited my dad's old cabin and land in the Ozarks. Your videos have been invaluable.
Mr. Swedish Homestead guy, THANK YOU VERY MUCH for sharing this highly useful information. I recently bought and moved to a mountainside homestead with my family that has a lot of trees that need felling. Today I tried your method, and it worked marvelously. The tree fell where it was supposed to, no power lines were downed, and nobody died. Great video!
A guy I know visited your country and helped an old lady by cutting down a tree that was threatening her garage. He left a large stump as people in this country tend to do. Later on an old guy saw the stump and decreed, "That tree was cut by an Australian or a Canadian". 😀
Great video. I've never seen anyone do a plunge cut to fell a tree before, and I'm still not 100% clear on the reason behind it. But you hit your mark in a safe and controlled manner, and that's what counts.
Lee White it is done to keep control. You can verify that you have cut thru and still have a safety corner. Then cut the corner quickly and the tree goes down. The tree stands safely until the last corner is cut.
Real greenhorn here! I really appreciate the time and the knowledge you gentlemen put into the presentations. Keep it up! Will always have a thumbs up!
The problem with plunge cuts are that you risk cutting the hinge wood when rotating saw towards the back of the tree. For most situations it is safer to do under cut and then come through with a back cut leaving about an inch of hinge wood like suggested.
being a man 61 years of age I cannot bring myself to do plunge cuts unless absolutely necessary. I come from the age of solid nose bars. that said leave it to a swede to show us north americans great techniques. and yes my two 455 husqvarna ' s are the greatest saws on earth.
@Burt Hulbert... I can appreciate your reply, however, I got you beat, I'm 65 years of age. Been doing this since I was 20. Been using a Husky 55 Rancher for the last 17 yrs. now, however it now has a 2nd hand ( used ) lower end on it, conrod bushing worn out & caused piston seizures. Next B/down, it gets thrown away. My next saw will be commercial grade, probably a Husqvarna, possibly a Stihl, but probably not. I rarely if ever do plunge cuts as demonstrated here with what sounded like a dull saw. If one is doing commercial logging with every inch of log meaning $$, yes, incl. the use of wedges, which I rarely if ever use. I typically make my final back cut approx. 3 - 4 " above the bottom of the wedge, I watch & listen carefully, 99 percent of the time, I get the SNAP & it drops right where I intended it to drop, unless mother nature throws me a curve ball with a strong gust of wind! I'm talking about firewood here, I don't care that I have a wedge at the split, it all burns! I do agree with cutting the tree as close to the base as possible however. That is a practice I have always followed, " waste not, want not... " :-)
@@billonthehill9984 just cut it iff after pulling the stump. The stump will be much easier to pull with something to hold on to. As well as being abke to make a much better cut while comfortably cutting the stump from the roots. Also thus saving even more wood for the burner. "To each his own" tho. Since were on the quote train.
Burt Hulbert What's up with the Swede using a Stihl? I too am a young 66 year old that has been using my 268 Husky for close to 30 years. It calls for a 20" bar but they claim it has enough power for a 24" which is what I prefer because of the reach.
yet another excited new feller wanting to show off. I've got more critiques for this than what anyone would have effort to read. There's a lot of talk about methods and little understanding or explanation of WHY and HOW.
Your method of cutting trees makes sense to me because the diagonal first cut will never bind the sawblade. The horizontal cut cannot bind because the diagonal is already cut. It is a very controlled method of felling trees. I also like the shorter stumps. Nice job.
Interesting and educational video. We can see you're a trained professional. Even though some woudn't agree with your technique, you DO KNOW what you're doing. I guess there are not one sinlge method of cutting down trees, but there are SO MANY loggers working in so many different places and felling so many different essences of trees. Thanks for your time.
Finally a logging video where everything is correct (minus that dull chain and the nearly smashed cow, but hey, maybe you tried to get both firewood AND steak in one operation, haha). First. I liked your emphasis on safety. When I started logging (Finnskogen, Norway) we had the same equipment and focus as you demonstrated here. Yes, the pants were clumsy and weighed a ton (and more after that week with wet snow), the helmet looked the same and we also had those steel capped and fiber reinforced rubber or leather boots, but with 1/4" studs for icy and slippery logs. Since heated saw handles were new and expensive, we instead used big gloves, but they also were fiber reinforced in case the chain broke. All this happened 37 years ago, and I get directly *angry* when I see all these idiots on YT who totally ignoring basic safety. God damn it, its been around for nearly 1/2 a century now. Maybe you get more comfortable and thereby a little more careless if you wear all this safety stuff, but unexpected and random accidents do happen - I have seen my share. So thank you so much for posting the *most valuable logging video* I have seen so far ((Maybe you can do one with how to de-branch a (spruce) tree the correct way?)) Two. I also liked your hook. I always kept my wedges and hand jack where I put my tool bag/gas/oil (often at the fireplace) and only strapped on two hooks, or more commonly, one hook and a small timber scissor. Sometimes I could use a hook as a wedge, but ofc with care (hard steel). You can also wedge a branch into the hook handle and thereby get more leverage. The scissor is, after the saw, my most used tool, especially during thinning or small tree logging. So easy to grab that little log and drag it to the a pile. Three. Felling with over-cut following with a under-cut is 100% correct. Just two comments: a) I normally make size of the cut no more than 2/3 of the diameter of especially the large trees. No more is necessary and its easier to see the direction of the hinge. b) I would, however, have demonstrated more clearly how you checked the direction using the straight lines on the saw, especially before the first cut. For difficult/precision felling I often first make a small cut in more or less the direction I want. Then I rest the saw in this cut, sit behind the saw, aim and adjust the direction. Then I do the two directional cuts and finally re-check the direction with the saw pressed into the wedge. I also include checking and valuating any snags, leaning, or snow. But hey, with practice you dont even think about all these factors,,, you just run on automatic. Four The 1-1/2" wide hinge is spot on, no matter size of the tree. I just want to emphasize that the under-cut and the actual cut should be flush/same level. That way you break off the wood fibers and pretty much eliminates cracks and tear out in the log, especially when its important to keep as much as possible of the base log piece intact ,,, often the most valuable piece (money money money) Five. Stump height. Yes. Yes. Yes. As a newbie I was once logging in 5 feet snow in a rocky terrain and had to bring a shovel to get to the tree bases. Bcs every extra feet I had to dig down also made my salary go down (accord salary) it happened that I made the stumps a foot too high. So when the manager came to inspect and said he might reduce my pay bcs I didnt cut low enough I learned the hard way. Low stumps also has implications for practicality, safety and health. I've seen Wranglerstar and others use various types of hydraulic and mechanical jacks to fell leaning trees. But what idiot will run around the forest with such devices? Not a professional who tries to maximize efficiency while keep energy usage as low as possible. Keep the stump low, do a two layer cut, and you will actually be able to jack even a big tree, even if you're not a hulk (I once logged with a girl 5'5" tall, a master in technique and speed, and she did that). At the same time your back wont hurt too much and you can keep logging until you actually are done and have made your salary. Just some of my experiences. Keep up with a fantastic channel over there showing how everyday life its practiced by 1000's of rural people here in the Nordic countries. Some call it 'homesteading', I call it just 'life'.
Thank you for your comment. I agree. Thought of some of the things you mentioned afterwards that I could have / should have talked about them in more detail. My big challenge that day was that my camera battery was so low and I had to hurry to finish the video. It won't be the last logging video.
Bogging down is more common in very soft woods or if the rakers are cut too low, so the chain is digging in too much or not able to clear sawdust away fast enough.
Thanx for video instruction. Got it. One thing I really like .....and many should note....this guy is not constantly blipping the engine like many amateurs do. He gets its up to speed (hi rpm) and holds it there thru the cut.
hey guy. was just watching your other video with ppl saying you did it wrong. I had to watch this. ive been swing a saw for a real long time. think I was 14 first time my dad put one in my hands im now lol sad to say in 33 now. and dropped many trees you did it one of the right ways useing a short bar and wedges. and yes that chain looked bad dull tell your brother to do a better job next time lol. great work guys.
I'd like to see the 1" of fiber much closer to the center of the tree, and both cuts come in at 45 degrees so that the entire relief cut is 90 degrees. This is so the fiber hinge is not torn free until much later in the tree's fall. Basically the tree would fall in such a way that the tree and stump would fit together like a miter, so the only force on the fiber hinge is bending. The way you did it, at about 45 degrees the hinge binds on the stump and tears it free allowing the tree to free fall the rest of the way. This way the tree would actually hinge, less risk of it falling the wrong way, and less risk of the tree rotating as if falls if the fiber hinge starts tearing free from one side. Having the fiber hinge near the middle helps ensure the tree will begin to relax and lean in the direction of your choosing, the way you did it the tree is likely to lean towards your back cut instead, This is because the back cut was well under the center of gravity of the tree. The reason this didn't happen, is because the tree was already at a significant lean and wanted to go that way anyway.
The tree was already leaning, so the hinge doesn’t need to be centered, nor does the wedge need to be that open. The tree isn’t falling 90º but more like 75º
Luke I like your logic. Why don't they teach that concept in felling 101? Every video and actual tree I've seen cut always has one flat cut in the relief, even open face 60-70 deg cuts like shown here. Why does the default way taught only guide the tree fall half way if using the standard 45 relief cut? But I do like the boring technique presented vs a standard back cut which leaves your saw in the middle of the tree when it starts to fall. I had one saw stick in the tearing hinge wood fiber of a tree on a steep incline and was thrown by the tree trunk after the top came down first. One modification to this technique is to leave 2" wood in the back cut after boring and then cut the last bit from the back, with your saw outside the log.
a very informative video. the idea of the tree shading the ground and taking up the water that would have watered the grass was an idea that I never would have thought of when deciding to fell a tree. the markings on the chainsaw were new to me too.
Great video and a very interesting technique! I had a guy cut 1/3 of the big trees in my yard after a wildfire last year, and all of his stumps were a metre or two off the ground so I had to come in later to cut them flush - but those were all for firewood anyway. Since I'll be cutting the rest this year, I'll keep all of these tips in mind.
thank you so much i just finished cutting a huge tree 🎄 in my front yard and i was able to make it fall right where i wanted, thank you for your instructions. i was given an estimate of 1500$ to do it, again thank you so much
I have no idea how many cord of wood I've cut over the years. I grew up cutting to heat our homes, logged for a bit, then had to learn real precision cutting around ski lifts and Audis lol. In all that time I've never heard of the line on the saw or using the handle for direction! You're never too old to learn and I can't wait to try it out! Nice hinge btw!
yes agree, I have also been chopping down trees for as long as I can think - I started with the ax as a kid and moved to the chainsaw in my mid teens. I will certainly look for the black line the next time. It's really something that I completely missed, but I was aware of the general direction by holding the chainsaw in the way that Simeon did in the video.
Thank you for this video . It is utterly learnsome and enjoyable to watch you ....10 years and not experienced ??? You are a most humble person !!! Maybe you cut another tree with a spare battery ,yes ??!! Greetings all the way from South Africa !!
I going to change up how I cut my notch next time . Makes sense. Get a cleaner cut and less chance of over cutting. One thing to note is safety chains will probably not be able to make a plunge cut like that. I personally don't run them for that very reason but think most saws come default with them.great video made me rethink a couple things.
I've done hundreds of Plunge cuts with my Stihl Green link safety chain. Works like a dream. It's easier than plunging with my Stihl Yellow link chain, who likes to kick during the plunge. That non safety chain sits in the bottom of my bag of tricks as an extra chain.
Thanks for the video, and its good to see a careful howto from someone with experience and expertise. Re cutting the tree as low as possible...I'd say if you are taking the tree out permanently...sure. It makes sense to maximise your lumber by cutting low. That said, if you want the tree to regrow for subsequent harvests - young oak, young birch, ash, lime, alder, willow, hazel, sycamore, sweet chesnut - then you want to cut higher. Estimates vary, but often people seem to suggest about 18 inches of trunk above the roots to facilitate the sprouting of new trunks. Probably not such an issue in Sweden, as birch doesn't coppice so well. Thanks again!
Well done! Just what I needed to know this time of year(November) got tons of small trees to remove preventing my more mature guys from aging well. Thanks Mr Swede!
Thank you for the video! Would be nice to do another one, a remake where we get to see the actual cutting being done AND the angle of the blade maybe 2 different cameras? But still thanks!
Good job Simeon. Chainsaws scare me , but I'm going to get an electric one for working close to the house and I wanted to see how you felled a tree safely. OR, I will get my experienced neighbor to fell it, then I can help limb it. I will offer him shares on the wood because they have a wood stove too. I used to split wood with a sledge hammer and a wedge, ah, when I was younger and stronger. I will see if I can still do that now that I am 66! Safety first and I applaud you for taking the time to stress that point before you did your cutting.
I always cut trees off about a metre above the ground. Makes it easier for a tractor or bull dozer to push out the stump. Any lower and you will have to grind to get rid of it.
And that method wastes and incredible amount of lumber by leaving it behind on the stump. And if you cut down a lot of trees, that a HUGE amount of wasted lumber. But I guess if all you are doing is cutting down tress like you're pulling weeds, then you don't care about actually using the tree for anything other than wood chips.
TREES ARE CUT HIGHER BECAUSE DUMB PEOPLE OVER THE DECADES HANG OR HUNG FENCING SIGNS ECT AND THATS WHERE THE TACKS NAILS AND FASTENERS OR FENCE WILL BE IN THE TREE WHICH DESTROYS YOUR BLADE,WHICH STOPS YOU IN MID FELL "danger" BECAUSE YOU GOTTA FORCE YOUR SAW SO YOU DONT DIE OR CUT OFF A LIMB.
This tree was already leaning strongly in the direction which you felled it, so it was no surprise that you hit the target stick. I would have been interested to hear what other tools and techniques would have been needed if you wanted to fell the tree in the opposite direction or at a right angle to the lean.
If you are looking to buy a reliable chain saw, here is my testimony: I was in the fire service for 30 years (structure) I was there when the fire service adopted the use of chainsaws over using axes for roof ventilation. Many brands were tried. Eventually only two brands were allowed on the fire apparatus: Stihl or Husqvarna. Because of steel roof coverings it was the norm to run them with a bullet chain. This chain also gave us the ability to cut metal garage doors. But hey the two saws above were bad ass on tar and gravel roofs and were reliable in heavy smoke conditions. I would recommend these two brands if you are serious about cutting wood with a reliable saw.
Thank you for this video, it proved how little I actually know about felling a tree. I'm going to take a bit of a safer tactic on the next tree I drop.
Great video. I've always been baffled at how people often cut the tree from higher up and leave a huge stump. It's always seemed like a waste of wood but I figured they had their reasons. I personally have no experience with it but am interested and hoping to gain some experience with my father in law on his land.
There is a reason behind it, other than "easier to cut". It depend on the species, some need to be cut high, other can be cut low. The puspuse is so the tree continues to live and feed other trees by his roots... It's all connected down there.
We always try to have the next generation forest not grow up from mother trees roots but to change the type of trees in the forest. That makes a healthier forest. Our aspen tree send out suckers all over the place no matter how low we cut those stumps... ;)
We also try to cut down the trees as close to the ground as we can. Sometimes you need to make a higher cut, but you always go back and try to cut it down as low as you can. I usually also try to cut a cross into the top of the wooden stump that is left in the ground as it speeds up the rotting process.
thank you so much. I came from your more recent video and I have been cutting the trees in my backyard wrong. I had no idea why I couldn't get it to go the right way with out having a line tied to it pulling towards the direction I wanted it to go.
3 very small suggestions -- (1) reposition the camera so that viewers can see the tip of the saw as you cut (instead of your knee) ; (2) you might consider buying a spare battery for your camera ; (3) don't talk near the chicken coop (the rooster upstages you). Otherwise, good job. Thank you for posting this video.
Great videos! We have 10 acres of land in Southern Ohio, and about 9 of that is forest. Being that we burn firewood and make maple syrup, I've also had to become a lumberjack of sorts. Hahaha I love our Husqvarna 460 rancher, and I was a bit surprised that you were using a Stihl being that you're Swedish. :) I'm also like you regarding safety! Thanks for the tips! There's always something to learn.
Ya because it's so hard right. Because he was nowhere near that stick he put in the ground either. I mean come on....he was at least 4 mm to the right. Totally unacceptable.
i like your videos you guys do clear explanation and your camera is always on target, many dt do that,you guys are doing good job and i enjoy all your videos much thanks from u.s.a.
I was always taught, correct me if I'm wrong that when doing a plunge cut you should never use the upper portion of the nose you should always start with the lower portion. Just about every manual I have seen says the same thing.
Thank you. We had no experience, but thanks to your video we successfully and safely fell a (dead) tree that was close to our house. We used an electric chainsaw and it worked wonders! Your cow is lovely by the way!
Good video and thanks. I have a few smaller trees that may need cutting down in the future. For now Ihave 4 dead ones that are rather large and just about no where to fall safely. These will be left to a professional like you. Again thanks!
Thank you again. I cut a young but tall tree using an electric pole saw. Because of your video I was much more mindful. I wore a bicycle helmet, steel toed boots and gloves. I should have worn eye protection over my glasses though! Thanks again. Safety first.
I was always instructed to "never" plunge cut with a chainsaw as it more likely to bind and break the chain., and i have never had the luxury of using wedges. It also helps if the tree is leaning in the same direction you want it to fall.
underbart! bra jobbat! det var inte så här jag lärde mig o jag har bara fällt en handfull innan jag bytte jobb. det är däremot så här jag skulle fälla idag. killen som lärde mig var nog lite av en amatör, trots att han jobbat i flera års tid. tack!
I dunno -- I think you're asking alot from some who needs tutorials when you expect them to do a plunge cut. Much less doing two and keeping things all lined up.
A safety tip I learned from my grandfather that has saved my butt a couple of times: As much as possible, keep your elbows locked. Especially your left one. If something slips and binds the chain and the saw kicks back, it's very difficult for the saw to whip around and hit you if your elbows are fully extended. It will tend to throw your whole body instead. Which can still be quite painful, but is less painful than a running chainsaw to the face or shoulder, even with modern safety gear.
Safe???? A PLUNGE cut. O.K I can do those, but it's only generally considered safe if you are experienced! I wouldn't do it that way anyway. Simple hinge cut, that's the way, drop a tree just were you want it. I am interested who recommended this method to you.
A plunge cut can prevent barber chair in a lot of cases. It shouldn't be your only safety measure if barber chair is a risk, but it is a good technique and commonly practiced in the industry.
damn you guys are awesome, i spend my life watching youtube videos like 8hrs a day learning stuff, and you are one of the most impressive people i found in years. thanks for sharing all your knowladge.
Only thing is, I based your value on your feeble attempt at thinking I didn't understand Spanish. That comment had nothing at all, to do with grammar. But again, AWESOME, you go ahead with that. It seems to make you feel better.
My brother once borrowed my chainsaw, said he'd put a new blade on it. Calls me the next day to rag on how "crappy" my chainsaw was, said it wouldn't even cut down a 10 diameter tree. So he brings my saw back only to find the moron had be running it with the chain BACKWARD lmao
I don't think that I'd like to stick the saw tip into the tree like that,. Maybe after years of practice, but for now I'll be happy with a hinge - ensuring I leave ample vetical wood to support the tree. Great video. Well done . You are very skilled
I recommend you watch the series of tree felling videos by Terry Hale. He goes into a lot more detail than you do and covers a LOT more scenarios. (Better camerawork also.) He talks about the different types of notches, sizes of notches, different back cuts, leaning trees, back leaners, climbing trees to cut them, etc. Honestly, just making a video because "this is how I was taught" doesn't do the newbie at home any favors if the tree drops on his house or the tree barber-chairs and kills him! And for the record, you want your back cut to be higher than your notch so that after the tree falls a little ways and that inch of wood you left has nearly broken, the tree does not detach from the stump completely and do what is called "seeking the stump" where the top of the tree falls in the direction you want, but the base of the tree moves BACKWARDS towards where most people might assume is a safe area to stand in! It's just an additional margin for safety that keeps chainsaw newbies (which let's be honest is 99.9% of people watching chainsaw videos on TH-cam) from injuring themselves, injuring other people, or doing major damage to any homes or vehicles that may be nearby. Peace.
This was very interesting Simeon. I have had many trees cut on property I owned (residences), but have never cut one myself. As I said further down in the comments, I have limbed a tree once cut. Now though, I can no longer hold things like chain saws, hands just don't do that anymore.
Damn good video, I worked in the woods chasing chokers and running a skidder, been waiting to see someone do a good video. Your first video brought me here, that was a good one too. Things changed in 40/45 years since I was in the woods.
Stihl has a very good video as well that talks about the "Felling Line" on saws. They also go into proper felling techniques. this is all very similar to the technique you use. They do go into the techniques of how to manage a tree with a slight lean and how to compensate for the lean. I have never used the plunge cut, I may try to use that next time I go out to cut a tree.
Great video! One criticism I have is that it seemed that you inserted the top of the bar before the bottom part of the point when making the plunge cut. This increases the risk of kickback. I could be wrong though, it was kind of difficult to tell from the angle in the video.
Thank you. You are right. It looks dangerous but it works if you insert the saw in the exact right angle. The safest way to go is to insert the bottom part first. If you insert the tip straight you will definitely get a kickback. But if you insert in the right angle with the top part of the tip, it works. The saw is then pushing itself against the tree and can't kick back towards you. This takes some practice to do right and safe but is effective and saves time if you do it professionally. Should maybe not have done that in a How To video.
+horatio71 They are referring to using the 'kickback zone' of the tip of the bar. You should never use this section of the bar tip to do any cutting. As the chain cutters contact the wood in this section of the bar, they likely will not get a 'clean' bite into the wood. The cutters have an increased chance of skipping off the surface of the wood and leading to the nose of the bar being forced upwards violently, back in the direction of the user. Google "kickback danger zone chainsaw" to see a picture of the section of the bar tip. It is the upper front portion.
Great vid. Lots of "expert" opinions below, some of them good ones. Few if any of them take the time and trouble to create and upload their videos. Easier to simply criticize others. You clearly have considerable experience and there's a lot to learn from you. Carry on and keep making great videos.
The more I watch these young guys giving "safety & simply" approaches to felling trees the more I'm convinced someone who is putting out the training manual has no practical experience of his own. 1)Stopping a number of times during your cut to peek around the base of the tree while on your knees with your face flush with your cut. 2)Stopping again, to poke 2-3 wedges in your fresh back cut while leaving your chainsaw engaged. (Typical 18"-24" dia. base tree already leaning). 3) Hammering these wedges with your short axe several blows on each wedge while your chainsaw still remains engaged & your 1/2 out of breath! The more time you spend jacking around the base of a tree that has already been cleared of debris & determined it's tragetory of fall & having no other concerns prior to simply making the complete angled cuts & sufficient back cut there are no safety reasons to stop the progress of the finishing chainsaws back cut in order to wedge & hammer the "hell" out of a tree that should just be cut down & move on! The more time u unnecessarily spend @ the base of a sizeable tree the increased chances of "X" factors increasing your risk. Unless you have predetermined there are reasonable concerning factors to wedge, hammer, wedge, hammer, wedge, hammer & hammer again all while your chainsaw is still engage is utterly rediculous. It's simply bad advice & example. It's like watching an open wound bleed while you determine if you've cleaned the area around the wound enough before you decide to try & simply stop the bleeding! I'm posting this because I see the same videos teaching this dangerous non-sense and everyone who owns a chainsaw thinks it's a good idea to copy the next person he just happened to view prior & make his own video for his blog step for step like the last. This isn't a game!
i agree with most of what you said but is it really that bad that they left the chainsaw engaged while doing the other stuff? i mean the chainsaw will not jump up and attack anyone. wouldn't stopping the motor and restarting over and over just place unnecessary wear on your equipment?
As a former timber cutter, I completely agree with you. First of all, before starting saw, walk around the tree and determine which way it's going to fall. Look for loose limbs or something else that could fall on you. Next, start the saw and proceed to cut down the tree. I've cut anywhere from 75 to 100 trees a day. Trust me, if you do it like this guy does it, you might cut 5.
Great video. It does help with the plunge cuts, if you bring a chainsaw with a long enough bar to go straight through the trunk of the tree, rather than having to walk around it and try to cut it a second time from the other side. The more complicated you make the job, the more likely it is that something will go wrong. If your saw doesn't go right through the other side of the trunk, the best you can do is try to guess roughly where to make the second plunge cut. If they don't join up accurately, there could be trouble!.....
Being a Swede and just beginning to learn I have to point out a few things. 1. This is a birch and a healthy one so the hinge will do a great job. 2. It's a leaner and towards the spot you're felling it, wich is nice when it's a birch and not an alder that could barber chair on you. 3. Bore cut is the standard here in Sweden but not everywhere else but if it were an alder for instance it would be good to mention that bore cutting is especially good if the tree is leaning your way and is prone to barber chairing. 4. Americans never (from what I've gathered from TH-cam) do the upper-cut first and we do it why? I assume for extra safety since the risk of the wood pinching the blade is lower when it's leaning in the same direction you're felling. 5. I always bore-cut from the other side first so that my angle is away from damaging the hinge when I angle the blade (to avoid the kick-back). 6. When I've made the bore-cut from one side (given that the blade goes all the way through) I check so that I have the same hinge-wood on both sides before I leave my "safe-corner". The safe-corner is where the last piece of holding wood is left and the direction in which I can run if shit hits the fan so to speak. After I have my safe-corner and my wedges in place I cut the last piece of holding wood, standing in a place where I can safely escape the tree when it's falling. In short: you did everything correctly but missed a few explanations.
Your cameraperson needs to learn how to film what you're doing without either you or the tree in the way. I can't see a thing. Your first cut was made with you in the way, and the third had the tree in the way.
Susan you have me stumped as to how you would set up the tripod and operate the chainsaw without hitting the cow. Getting it wood rightlly turn out well if you have the curves I have the angles . LOL
@@stevenbryant4718 : If he was doing the filming and the cutting all by himself, then he would need a tripod. Otherwise, if someone else was holding the camera, they could have hand-held it (they used to do that for the movies in the early days) and she or he could have walked around until they could see what he was trying to explain.
I really appreciate the videos you and your brother post. I firmly believe anyone getting into chainsaws for the first time, would do well to watch your videos. Thanks for posting.
Brendan Fitzgerald my thougth to. But he starts with the top of the saw to cut a small groove before plunging it, but if you are not use to working with saws this could end up in a kick back.
There are two sides to the tip the underside pulls the top pushes the tip kicks.. Use the underside to start the plunge and when its really in there pivot your tip into the tree..
No reason for a plunge cut on a tree that small with that saw. No reason to use wedges either. Not a good video for amateurs to learn from. I will say the "blunt saw" bit was ironic, and dang ,could have made hamburgers out of the cow, would have made this a classic vid. Lucky it was not a curious child . so two good errors somebody might learn from.
The plunge cut us what is taught and the international standard for most basic fellings. But it is a dangerous cut for amateurs. And anyone with cows and trees know this: cut a tree down and they come running to strip the leaves off!
I agree with your safety stand friend, that's the main reason I don't do really light chain saw work on the ground and nothing very big. I have felled a rather large half split oak but I won't again probably, unless it's on my own property.
Through the weeds ran a thousand Swedes all chased by one Finlander lol your over complicating an easy task . Like your tool belt and choice of saw and PPE all very good
like one old man said to me....Listen to me now! You have to know exactly where the tree lands...not assume,that yeah!! ....it will probably hit that place ova there.....
I find it very strange, that you use the upper part of the blade's tip to plunge cut. (or are my eyes deceiving me?) This screams kickback to me. I am told, and use the lower part of the blade's tip, go to full revs and plunge it for a forward sweeping motion.
Wouter d.B. He pushes the top of the saw in first then swivels over cutting with the bottom, he only uses the tip as a swivel point. It's totally safe but it's a method only skilled loggers use
I use that cut every day... that's a safe way to cut but only for experienced loggers... the saw won't kick back if you do it right. I use a normal full house grind chain and it don't kick back. Unless you have filed the drags down to much... lol
Thank you my friend ... God bless you always . Keep up your good works for God and others. The world need someone like you to make this planet better and better.
I started to laugh so hard when the tree falls, and it reveals that a large cow in the distance has been watching you this whole time!
Can you imagine if the tree hit the cow?
If he changed the title to "cow watches man fell tree" he would get a lot more views 😂
I thought it was a bear at first glance!
Dude has a very humble approach and is very knowledgeable. We need more people like him.
Agreed. The humility is refreshing. And we can all use a break from the boasting so prevalent on TH-cam
@@Natalaire Im looking a lot tree-videos and channels like this. I find the comments to be so positive and greatfull.
Both Brothers are to be highly valued for their contributions to safety in one of the most challenging and dangerous industries in the world. Thank you for your videos, excellent production work!
I stopped a previous video you shared and clicked on the link you mention this video. I don't like this method for me. It worked and your great with this style but as a family of loggers I wouldn't run the saw straight in and then around and then wedge. Cut the back and let her fall.
Now I'll go back and watch your explanation. Awesome video. It's about learning and sharing after all. Thank you for taking the time to do both very well so far sir.
Safety tip, I learned long time ago that before you even start the chainsaw that the first thing you do is to decide where you want it to fall, the second thing you do is to walk around the tree looking up at the branches. When you look up you'll see if it's even possible to drop the tree where you'd like it to land but more importantly you're looking for "Widow makers". These are lose branches that are still hanging in the tree but could become dislodged during the cutting process, if they do they're likely to kill you, hence the term "Widow makers". Historically hundreds of lumber jacks have lost their lives like this, and it still happens these days to inexperienced or careless ones. NIOSH says that they are responsible for 11% of all chainsaw deaths. Remember to look up before you cut!
Inspection is crucial. And yes, all of this must be done before starting saw. Great comment.
Of, when stands in the deep forrest you should!.. great tip..know your surroundings!..
Thanks for that it is something I will definitely be doing
Good point always check which way you want and need to fell it safely but don't forget check to see which is your escape route if it goes wrong. If not make an escape route
Very good tips Thanks
You are awesome! Your explanations are logical, and you demonstration (with admitted flaws) are first rate. This is coming from a Canadian who has done this for over 60 years.
Hi! I want to thank you so very much for your videos. You provide much needed information in a humble and direct manner. You give the reasons and your experience for each suggestion, as well as demonstrating some common mistakes and how to avoid them. I'm very new to homesteading; I inherited my dad's old cabin and land in the Ozarks. Your videos have been invaluable.
Mr. Swedish Homestead guy, THANK YOU VERY MUCH for sharing this highly useful information. I recently bought and moved to a mountainside homestead with my family that has a lot of trees that need felling. Today I tried your method, and it worked marvelously. The tree fell where it was supposed to, no power lines were downed, and nobody died. Great video!
A guy I know visited your country and helped an old lady by cutting down a tree that was threatening her garage. He left a large stump as people in this country tend to do. Later on an old guy saw the stump and decreed, "That tree was cut by an Australian or a Canadian". 😀
Great video. I've never seen anyone do a plunge cut to fell a tree before, and I'm still not 100% clear on the reason behind it. But you hit your mark in a safe and controlled manner, and that's what counts.
Lee White it is done to keep control. You can verify that you have cut thru and still have a safety corner. Then cut the corner quickly and the tree goes down. The tree stands safely until the last corner is cut.
Real greenhorn here! I really appreciate the time and the knowledge you gentlemen put into the presentations. Keep it up! Will always have a thumbs up!
The problem with plunge cuts are that you risk cutting the hinge wood when rotating saw towards the back of the tree. For most situations it is safer to do under cut and then come through with a back cut leaving about an inch of hinge wood like suggested.
being a man 61 years of age I cannot bring myself to do plunge cuts unless absolutely necessary. I come from the age of solid nose bars.
that said leave it to a swede to show us north americans great techniques.
and yes my two 455 husqvarna ' s are the greatest saws on earth.
@Burt Hulbert... I can appreciate your reply, however, I got you beat, I'm 65 years of age. Been doing this since I was 20. Been using a Husky 55 Rancher for the last 17 yrs. now, however it now has a 2nd hand ( used ) lower end on it, conrod bushing worn out & caused piston seizures. Next B/down, it gets thrown away. My next saw will be commercial grade, probably a Husqvarna, possibly a Stihl, but probably not. I rarely if ever do plunge cuts as demonstrated here with what sounded like a dull saw. If one is doing commercial logging with every inch of log meaning $$, yes, incl. the use of wedges, which I rarely if ever use. I typically make my final back cut approx. 3 - 4 " above the bottom of the wedge, I watch & listen carefully, 99 percent of the time, I get the SNAP & it drops right where I intended it to drop, unless mother nature throws me a curve ball with a strong gust of wind! I'm talking about firewood here, I don't care that I have a wedge at the split, it all burns! I do agree with cutting the tree as close to the base as possible however. That is a practice I have always followed, " waste not, want not... " :-)
@@billonthehill9984 just cut it iff after pulling the stump. The stump will be much easier to pull with something to hold on to. As well as being abke to make a much better cut while comfortably cutting the stump from the roots. Also thus saving even more wood for the burner. "To each his own" tho. Since were on the quote train.
Burt Hulbert What's up with the Swede using a Stihl? I too am a young 66 year old that has been using my 268 Husky for close to 30 years. It calls for a 20" bar but they claim it has enough power for a 24" which is what I prefer because of the reach.
I have you both beat. I hire a guy to cut down trees whenever I want them cut down. It's so easy.
yet another excited new feller wanting to show off. I've got more critiques for this than what anyone would have effort to read. There's a lot of talk about methods and little understanding or explanation of WHY and HOW.
Your method of cutting trees makes sense to me because the diagonal first cut will never bind the sawblade. The horizontal cut cannot bind because the diagonal is already cut. It is a very controlled method of felling trees. I also like the shorter stumps. Nice job.
Interesting and educational video. We can see you're a trained professional. Even though some woudn't agree with your technique, you DO KNOW what you're doing. I guess there are not one sinlge method of cutting down trees, but there are SO MANY loggers working in so many different places and felling so many different essences of trees. Thanks for your time.
Finally a logging video where everything is correct
(minus that dull chain and the nearly smashed cow, but hey, maybe you tried to get both firewood AND steak in one operation, haha).
First.
I liked your emphasis on safety. When I started logging (Finnskogen, Norway) we had the same equipment and focus as you demonstrated here. Yes, the pants were clumsy and weighed a ton (and more after that week with wet snow), the helmet looked the same and we also had those steel capped and fiber reinforced rubber or leather boots, but with 1/4" studs for icy and slippery logs. Since heated saw handles were new and expensive, we instead used big gloves, but they also were fiber reinforced in case the chain broke.
All this happened 37 years ago, and I get directly *angry* when I see all these idiots on YT who totally ignoring basic safety. God damn it, its been around for nearly 1/2 a century now. Maybe you get more comfortable and thereby a little more careless if you wear all this safety stuff, but unexpected and random accidents do happen - I have seen my share. So thank you so much for posting the *most valuable logging video* I have seen so far ((Maybe you can do one with how to de-branch a (spruce) tree the correct way?))
Two.
I also liked your hook. I always kept my wedges and hand jack where I put my tool bag/gas/oil (often at the fireplace) and only strapped on two hooks, or more commonly, one hook and a small timber scissor. Sometimes I could use a hook as a wedge, but ofc with care (hard steel). You can also wedge a branch into the hook handle and thereby get more leverage. The scissor is, after the saw, my most used tool, especially during thinning or small tree logging. So easy to grab that little log and drag it to the a pile.
Three.
Felling with over-cut following with a under-cut is 100% correct. Just two comments:
a) I normally make size of the cut no more than 2/3 of the diameter of especially the large trees. No more is necessary and its easier to see the direction of the hinge.
b) I would, however, have demonstrated more clearly how you checked the direction using the straight lines on the saw, especially before the first cut. For difficult/precision felling I often first make a small cut in more or less the direction I want. Then I rest the saw in this cut, sit behind the saw, aim and adjust the direction. Then I do the two directional cuts and finally re-check the direction with the saw pressed into the wedge. I also include checking and valuating any snags, leaning, or snow.
But hey, with practice you dont even think about all these factors,,, you just run on automatic.
Four
The 1-1/2" wide hinge is spot on, no matter size of the tree. I just want to emphasize that the under-cut and the actual cut should be flush/same level. That way you break off the wood fibers and pretty much eliminates cracks and tear out in the log, especially when its important to keep as much as possible of the base log piece intact ,,, often the most valuable piece (money money money)
Five.
Stump height. Yes. Yes. Yes. As a newbie I was once logging in 5 feet snow in a rocky terrain and had to bring a shovel to get to the tree bases. Bcs every extra feet I had to dig down also made my salary go down (accord salary) it happened that I made the stumps a foot too high. So when the manager came to inspect and said he might reduce my pay bcs I didnt cut low enough I learned the hard way.
Low stumps also has implications for practicality, safety and health. I've seen Wranglerstar and others use various types of hydraulic and mechanical jacks to fell leaning trees. But what idiot will run around the forest with such devices? Not a professional who tries to maximize efficiency while keep energy usage as low as possible. Keep the stump low, do a two layer cut, and you will actually be able to jack even a big tree, even if you're not a hulk (I once logged with a girl 5'5" tall, a master in technique and speed, and she did that). At the same time your back wont hurt too much and you can keep logging until you actually are done and have made your salary.
Just some of my experiences.
Keep up with a fantastic channel over there showing how everyday life its practiced by 1000's of rural people here in the Nordic countries. Some call it 'homesteading', I call it just 'life'.
Thank you for your comment. I agree. Thought of some of the things you mentioned afterwards that I could have / should have talked about them in more detail. My big challenge that day was that my camera battery was so low and I had to hurry to finish the video. It won't be the last logging video.
Looking forward to more vids.
Listening again .... ''listening to old Swedish loggers'' .... haha, that puts me in ur pocket
Stijf Wood Wow, we didn't want a novel written lol
I loved the chickens screaming in the background for the first 5 minutes. That's all I remember.
Bogging down is more common in very soft woods or if the rakers are cut too low, so the chain is digging in too much or not able to clear sawdust away fast enough.
Thanx for video instruction. Got it.
One thing I really like .....and many should note....this guy is not constantly blipping the engine like many amateurs do. He gets its up to speed (hi rpm) and holds it there thru the cut.
Why am I watching this at 4:37am?
I don't even own a chainsaw ffs
ha! that's gold!
I don't even own a tree!
Yeah I know, I started out 3 hours ago looking up how to grill sea bass.
- LA_Droid - same,I'm just a shitty GD youtuber...
I just turned here and it's 4:37am. Must be a thing. :)
hey guy. was just watching your other video with ppl saying you did it wrong. I had to watch this. ive been swing a saw for a real long time. think I was 14 first time my dad put one in my hands im now lol sad to say in 33 now. and dropped many trees you did it one of the right ways useing a short bar and wedges. and yes that chain looked bad dull tell your brother to do a better job next time lol. great work guys.
I'd like to see the 1" of fiber much closer to the center of the tree, and both cuts come in at 45 degrees so that the entire relief cut is 90 degrees. This is so the fiber hinge is not torn free until much later in the tree's fall.
Basically the tree would fall in such a way that the tree and stump would fit together like a miter, so the only force on the fiber hinge is bending. The way you did it, at about 45 degrees the hinge binds on the stump and tears it free allowing the tree to free fall the rest of the way.
This way the tree would actually hinge, less risk of it falling the wrong way, and less risk of the tree rotating as if falls if the fiber hinge starts tearing free from one side.
Having the fiber hinge near the middle helps ensure the tree will begin to relax and lean in the direction of your choosing, the way you did it the tree is likely to lean towards your back cut instead, This is because the back cut was well under the center of gravity of the tree. The reason this didn't happen, is because the tree was already at a significant lean and wanted to go that way anyway.
The tree was already leaning, so the hinge doesn’t need to be centered, nor does the wedge need to be that open. The tree isn’t falling 90º but more like 75º
Luke I like your logic. Why don't they teach that concept in felling 101? Every video and actual tree I've seen cut always has one flat cut in the relief, even open face 60-70 deg cuts like shown here. Why does the default way taught only guide the tree fall half way if using the standard 45 relief cut? But I do like the boring technique presented vs a standard back cut which leaves your saw in the middle of the tree when it starts to fall. I had one saw stick in the tearing hinge wood fiber of a tree on a steep incline and was thrown by the tree trunk after the top came down first. One modification to this technique is to leave 2" wood in the back cut after boring and then cut the last bit from the back, with your saw outside the log.
a very informative video. the idea of the tree shading the ground and taking up the water that would have watered the grass was an idea that I never would have thought of when deciding to fell a tree. the markings on the chainsaw were new to me too.
Great video and a very interesting technique! I had a guy cut 1/3 of the big trees in my yard after a wildfire last year, and all of his stumps were a metre or two off the ground so I had to come in later to cut them flush - but those were all for firewood anyway. Since I'll be cutting the rest this year, I'll keep all of these tips in mind.
thank you so much i just finished cutting a huge tree 🎄 in my front yard and i was able to make it fall right where i wanted, thank you for your instructions. i was given an estimate of 1500$ to do it, again thank you so much
I have no idea how many cord of wood I've cut over the years. I grew up cutting to heat our homes, logged for a bit, then had to learn real precision cutting around ski lifts and Audis lol. In all that time I've never heard of the line on the saw or using the handle for direction! You're never too old to learn and I can't wait to try it out! Nice hinge btw!
Thanks. Glad you liked it.
yes agree, I have also been chopping down trees for as long as I can think - I started with the ax as a kid and moved to the chainsaw in my mid teens. I will certainly look for the black line the next time. It's really something that I completely missed, but I was aware of the general direction by holding the chainsaw in the way that Simeon did in the video.
Stihl has the black line. Husqvarna and Jonsered I thiink use the handle which is straight.
My Husqvarna XP's have the line across the top too. Don't know about the lesser saws.
texas lajaw
you're a comedian, STIHL lesser than Husqvarna. come on, be realistic!
Thank you for this video . It is utterly learnsome and enjoyable to watch you ....10 years and not experienced ??? You are a most humble person !!! Maybe you cut another tree with a spare battery ,yes ??!! Greetings all the way from South Africa !!
I going to change up how I cut my notch next time . Makes sense. Get a cleaner cut and less chance of over cutting. One thing to note is safety chains will probably not be able to make a plunge cut like that. I personally don't run them for that very reason but think most saws come default with them.great video made me rethink a couple things.
Nice. Hope it helps.
I've done hundreds of Plunge cuts with my Stihl Green link safety chain. Works like a dream. It's easier than plunging with my Stihl Yellow link chain, who likes to kick during the plunge. That non safety chain sits in the bottom of my bag of tricks as an extra chain.
Thanks very much for the great advice. Just felled my first tree using your technique and it went very smoothly.
Thanks for the video, and its good to see a careful howto from someone with experience and expertise.
Re cutting the tree as low as possible...I'd say if you are taking the tree out permanently...sure. It makes sense to maximise your lumber by cutting low.
That said, if you want the tree to regrow for subsequent harvests - young oak, young birch, ash, lime, alder, willow, hazel, sycamore, sweet chesnut - then you want to cut higher. Estimates vary, but often people seem to suggest about 18 inches of trunk above the roots to facilitate the sprouting of new trunks.
Probably not such an issue in Sweden, as birch doesn't coppice so well.
Thanks again!
Interesting. Thank you.
Well done! Just what I needed to know this time of year(November) got tons of small trees to remove preventing my more mature guys from aging well. Thanks Mr Swede!
Thank you for the video! Would be nice to do another one, a remake where we get to see the actual cutting being done AND the angle of the blade maybe 2 different cameras? But still thanks!
Good job Simeon. Chainsaws scare me , but I'm going to get an electric one for working close to the house and I wanted to see how you felled a tree safely. OR, I will get my experienced neighbor to fell it, then I can help limb it. I will offer him shares on the wood because they have a wood stove too. I used to split wood with a sledge hammer and a wedge, ah, when I was younger and stronger. I will see if I can still do that now that I am 66! Safety first and I applaud you for taking the time to stress that point before you did your cutting.
I always cut trees off about a metre above the ground. Makes it easier for a tractor or bull dozer to push out the stump. Any lower and you will have to grind to get rid of it.
And that method wastes and incredible amount of lumber by leaving it behind on the stump.
And if you cut down a lot of trees, that a HUGE amount of wasted lumber.
But I guess if all you are doing is cutting down tress like you're pulling weeds, then you don't care about actually using the tree for anything other than wood chips.
Mills wont take the trees from residential areas here. They generally get pushed up in to big mounds and burnt.
TREES ARE CUT HIGHER BECAUSE DUMB PEOPLE OVER THE DECADES HANG OR HUNG FENCING SIGNS ECT AND THATS WHERE THE TACKS NAILS AND FASTENERS OR FENCE WILL BE IN THE TREE WHICH DESTROYS YOUR BLADE,WHICH STOPS YOU IN MID FELL "danger" BECAUSE YOU GOTTA FORCE YOUR SAW SO YOU DONT DIE OR CUT OFF A LIMB.
UNLESS YOUR IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE THEN CUT THE WAY THE TREE SAYS TOO HIGH OR LOW DEPENDS ON THE TREE AND WHERE IT IS
I was taught not to cut too low since some trees draw rocks out of the ground into the lower section of stump, no good for the chain
Like the plunge cut behind the face cut. That looks like a good way to control the hinge depth. And, I really like the emphasis on safety!
This tree was already leaning strongly in the direction which you felled it, so it was no surprise that you hit the target stick. I would have been interested to hear what other tools and techniques would have been needed if you wanted to fell the tree in the opposite direction or at a right angle to the lean.
Wedges
If you are looking to buy a reliable chain saw, here is my testimony:
I was in the fire service for 30 years (structure) I was there when the fire service adopted the use of chainsaws over using axes for roof ventilation. Many brands were tried. Eventually only two brands were allowed on the fire apparatus: Stihl or Husqvarna. Because of steel roof coverings it was the norm to run them with a bullet chain. This chain also gave us the ability to cut metal garage doors. But hey the two saws above were bad ass on tar and gravel roofs and were reliable in heavy smoke conditions. I would recommend these two brands if you are serious about cutting wood with a reliable saw.
Hey, I loved listening to that rooster crow. Good stuff here.
Thank you for this video, it proved how little I actually know about felling a tree. I'm going to take a bit of a safer tactic on the next tree I drop.
Thank you brother, you gonna save me lots of money!!!
You did a great job on using the plunge cut. That was the way I was taught, but then everyone said I was wrong. Keep up the great work.
Thank you.
Great video. I've always been baffled at how people often cut the tree from higher up and leave a huge stump. It's always seemed like a waste of wood but I figured they had their reasons. I personally have no experience with it but am interested and hoping to gain some experience with my father in law on his land.
Thank you. Glad you liked it.
There is a reason behind it, other than "easier to cut". It depend on the species, some need to be cut high, other can be cut low. The puspuse is so the tree continues to live and feed other trees by his roots... It's all connected down there.
We always try to have the next generation forest not grow up from mother trees roots but to change the type of trees in the forest. That makes a healthier forest. Our aspen tree send out suckers all over the place no matter how low we cut those stumps... ;)
I guess if that's the goal I could see that but I don't think that's what it commonly is around here. At least I've never heard that.
We also try to cut down the trees as close to the ground as we can. Sometimes you need to make a higher cut, but you always go back and try to cut it down as low as you can. I usually also try to cut a cross into the top of the wooden stump that is left in the ground as it speeds up the rotting process.
thank you so much. I came from your more recent video and I have been cutting the trees in my backyard wrong. I had no idea why I couldn't get it to go the right way with out having a line tied to it pulling towards the direction I wanted it to go.
Steven Paige i agree, i did the same error. I wish these guys taught me to cut trees.
3 very small suggestions --
(1) reposition the camera so that viewers can see the tip of the saw as you cut (instead of your knee) ;
(2) you might consider buying a spare battery for your camera ;
(3) don't talk near the chicken coop (the rooster upstages you).
Otherwise, good job. Thank you for posting this video.
Possibly the best video I have seen on this topic
_-We use metric because we are in Europe, Sweden_
few minutes later
_-We want this to be 1 inch thick_
Great videos! We have 10 acres of land in Southern Ohio, and about 9 of that is forest. Being that we burn firewood and make maple syrup, I've also had to become a lumberjack of sorts. Hahaha I love our Husqvarna 460 rancher, and I was a bit surprised that you were using a Stihl being that you're Swedish. :) I'm also like you regarding safety! Thanks for the tips! There's always something to learn.
Man, I have less than 5 hours experience with a chainsaw, I'm not gonna do a plunge cut.
Then don’t fell leaning trees.
Ya because it's so hard right. Because he was nowhere near that stick he put in the ground either. I mean come on....he was at least 4 mm to the right. Totally unacceptable.
I learned a lot regarding tree felling safety. That was close enough to the stick for me! Nice video. Thank you for the lesson. 👍🏼😁
I sometimes leave a higher stump so I can pull the roots out of the ground with a tractor.
i like your videos you guys do clear explanation and your camera is always on target, many dt do that,you guys are doing good job and i enjoy all your videos much thanks from u.s.a.
I was always taught, correct me if I'm wrong that when doing a plunge cut you should never use the upper portion of the nose you should always start with the lower portion. Just about every manual I have seen says the same thing.
@Keith Clark Uhg, I have to fell some trees and it would be great to find videos that are correct. There's so much conflicting information...
Thank you. We had no experience, but thanks to your video we successfully and safely fell a (dead) tree that was close to our house. We used an electric chainsaw and it worked wonders! Your cow is lovely by the way!
Nice demo & nice videos in general. Small question: looking at the thickness of the tree, couldn't the first cut have been a bit deeper?
Good video and thanks. I have a few smaller trees that may need cutting down in the future. For now Ihave 4 dead ones that are rather large and just about no where to fall safely. These will be left to a professional like you. Again thanks!
5:19
Thank jesus the rooster is back, i was just starting to miss him
Thank you again. I cut a young but tall tree using an electric pole saw. Because of your video I was much more mindful. I wore a bicycle helmet, steel toed boots and gloves. I should have worn eye protection over my glasses though! Thanks again. Safety first.
I was always instructed to "never" plunge cut with a chainsaw as it more likely to bind and break the chain., and i have never had the luxury of using wedges. It also helps if the tree is leaning in the same direction you want it to fall.
underbart! bra jobbat! det var inte så här jag lärde mig o jag har bara fällt en handfull innan jag bytte jobb. det är däremot så här jag skulle fälla idag. killen som lärde mig var nog lite av en amatör, trots att han jobbat i flera års tid. tack!
I dunno -- I think you're asking alot from some who needs tutorials when you expect them to do a plunge cut. Much less doing two and keeping things all lined up.
A safety tip I learned from my grandfather that has saved my butt a couple of times: As much as possible, keep your elbows locked. Especially your left one. If something slips and binds the chain and the saw kicks back, it's very difficult for the saw to whip around and hit you if your elbows are fully extended. It will tend to throw your whole body instead. Which can still be quite painful, but is less painful than a running chainsaw to the face or shoulder, even with modern safety gear.
Safe???? A PLUNGE cut. O.K I can do those, but it's only generally considered safe if you are experienced! I wouldn't do it that way anyway. Simple hinge cut, that's the way, drop a tree just were you want it. I am interested who recommended this method to you.
A plunge cut can prevent barber chair in a lot of cases. It shouldn't be your only safety measure if barber chair is a risk, but it is a good technique and commonly practiced in the industry.
I use a hinge cut. That plunge cut looked dangerous to me.
Jimmy Lewis Well, you shouldn’t try it then
@@vyvianalcott1681 slow and a waste of time.
This video and the what not to do video earned you a subscribe. You sir are a gentleman and a scholar!
At 12:18, I thought it was a bear 🐻
You make it look easy 👍🏼
LOL me too! I was thinking "OMG, is that a bear?!"
damn you guys are awesome, i spend my life watching youtube videos like 8hrs a day learning stuff, and you are one of the most impressive people i found in years. thanks for sharing all your knowladge.
santiago, Obviously none of the videos you watch, have anything to do with the proper use of English and grammar. You should tune in to a few of them.
me vale verga lo que digas.
Awesome, you go ahead with that, but you really aren't worth more than a nickle at best.
if you think peoples value is on its grammar, i dont having anything to say to you, but have a nice day.
Only thing is, I based your value on your feeble attempt at thinking I didn't understand Spanish. That comment had nothing at all, to do with grammar. But again, AWESOME, you go ahead with that. It seems to make you feel better.
At 13:34 he said I thought my brother sharpened the saw .- used that one myself many times!
My brother once borrowed my chainsaw, said he'd put a new blade on it.
Calls me the next day to rag on how "crappy" my chainsaw was, said it wouldn't even cut down a 10 diameter tree. So he brings my saw back only to find the moron had be running it with the chain BACKWARD lmao
I use that too. The problem is that I have no brother..........
I don't think that I'd like to stick the saw tip into the tree like that,. Maybe after years of practice, but for now I'll be happy with a hinge - ensuring I leave ample vetical wood to support the tree. Great video. Well done . You are very skilled
I recommend you watch the series of tree felling videos by Terry Hale. He goes into a lot more detail than you do and covers a LOT more scenarios. (Better camerawork also.) He talks about the different types of notches, sizes of notches, different back cuts, leaning trees, back leaners, climbing trees to cut them, etc. Honestly, just making a video because "this is how I was taught" doesn't do the newbie at home any favors if the tree drops on his house or the tree barber-chairs and kills him!
And for the record, you want your back cut to be higher than your notch so that after the tree falls a little ways and that inch of wood you left has nearly broken, the tree does not detach from the stump completely and do what is called "seeking the stump" where the top of the tree falls in the direction you want, but the base of the tree moves BACKWARDS towards where most people might assume is a safe area to stand in!
It's just an additional margin for safety that keeps chainsaw newbies (which let's be honest is 99.9% of people watching chainsaw videos on TH-cam) from injuring themselves, injuring other people, or doing major damage to any homes or vehicles that may be nearby. Peace.
So you are here to advertise ?
Terry hall
This was very interesting Simeon. I have had many trees cut on property I owned (residences), but have never cut one myself. As I said further down in the comments, I have limbed a tree once cut. Now though, I can no longer hold things like chain saws, hands just don't do that anymore.
the saftey part hits home. my brother got complacent one time at work and lost half his left foot
@@RG-xw5up What?
@@olsonbryce777 THE SAFETY PART HITS HOME. HER BROTHER GOT COMPLACENT ONE TIME AT WORK AND LOST HALF HIS LEFT FOOT.
@@lucasfabisiak9586 I I wan't replying to her lol
@@olsonbryce777 Oh shit, you're right. I didn't look at the @. I guess the comment got deleted. My bad. Have a good day!
Damn good video, I worked in the woods chasing chokers and running a skidder, been waiting to see someone do a good video. Your first video brought me here, that was a good one too. Things changed in 40/45 years since I was in the woods.
good vid, but please be aware when using the tip of the saw to cut, I noticed you had slight kickback a couple times there.
Very good preparation and execution. And also,Very Humble young man.
love how you go on about safety.... but were are your gloves????
Stihl has a very good video as well that talks about the "Felling Line" on saws. They also go into proper felling techniques. this is all very similar to the technique you use. They do go into the techniques of how to manage a tree with a slight lean and how to compensate for the lean.
I have never used the plunge cut, I may try to use that next time I go out to cut a tree.
Great video! One criticism I have is that it seemed that you inserted the top of the bar before the bottom part of the point when making the plunge cut. This increases the risk of kickback. I could be wrong though, it was kind of difficult to tell from the angle in the video.
Thank you. You are right. It looks dangerous but it works if you insert the saw in the exact right angle. The safest way to go is to insert the bottom part first. If you insert the tip straight you will definitely get a kickback. But if you insert in the right angle with the top part of the tip, it works. The saw is then pushing itself against the tree and can't kick back towards you. This takes some practice to do right and safe but is effective and saves time if you do it professionally. Should maybe not have done that in a How To video.
Not quite sure what the 2 of you mean in terms of top bar and angle. Do you mind elaborating?
+horatio71 They are referring to using the 'kickback zone' of the tip of the bar. You should never use this section of the bar tip to do any cutting. As the chain cutters contact the wood in this section of the bar, they likely will not get a 'clean' bite into the wood. The cutters have an increased chance of skipping off the surface of the wood and leading to the nose of the bar being forced upwards violently, back in the direction of the user. Google "kickback danger zone chainsaw" to see a picture of the section of the bar tip. It is the upper front portion.
Many thanks Patrick. Much clearer to me now
horatio71 You're welcome.
Great vid. Lots of "expert" opinions below, some of them good ones. Few if any of them take the time and trouble to create and upload their videos. Easier to simply criticize others. You clearly have considerable experience and there's a lot to learn from you. Carry on and keep making great videos.
The more I watch these young guys giving "safety & simply" approaches to felling trees the more I'm convinced someone who is putting out the training manual has no practical experience of his own.
1)Stopping a number of times during your cut to peek around the base of the tree while on your knees with your face flush with your cut.
2)Stopping again, to poke 2-3 wedges in your fresh back cut while leaving your chainsaw engaged. (Typical 18"-24" dia. base tree already leaning).
3) Hammering these wedges with your short axe several blows on each wedge while your chainsaw still remains engaged & your 1/2 out of breath!
The more time you spend jacking around the base of a tree that has already been cleared of debris & determined it's tragetory of fall & having no other concerns prior to simply making the complete angled cuts & sufficient back cut there are no safety reasons to stop the progress of the finishing chainsaws back cut in order to wedge & hammer the "hell" out of a tree that should just be cut down & move on!
The more time u unnecessarily spend @ the base of a sizeable tree the increased chances of "X" factors increasing your risk. Unless you have predetermined there are reasonable concerning factors to wedge, hammer, wedge, hammer, wedge, hammer & hammer again all while your chainsaw is still engage is utterly rediculous. It's simply bad advice & example. It's like watching an open wound bleed while you determine if you've cleaned the area around the wound enough before you decide to try & simply stop the bleeding!
I'm posting this because I see the same videos teaching this dangerous non-sense and everyone who owns a chainsaw thinks it's a good idea to copy the next person he just happened to view prior & make his own video for his blog step for step like the last. This isn't a game!
i agree with most of what you said but is it really that bad that they left the chainsaw engaged while doing the other stuff? i mean the chainsaw will not jump up and attack anyone. wouldn't stopping the motor and restarting over and over just place unnecessary wear on your equipment?
Why don't you post a video on your channel showing us your method of felling trees?
You do realize that you can lock your chainsaw right? Jesus lol these youtube engineers make my day.
Maybe you should make some vids Man, I'd love to see some more expertise..
As a former timber cutter, I completely agree with you. First of all, before starting saw, walk around the tree and determine which way it's going to fall. Look for loose limbs or something else that could fall on you. Next, start the saw and proceed to cut down the tree. I've cut anywhere from 75 to 100 trees a day. Trust me, if you do it like this guy does it, you might cut 5.
Great video.
It does help with the plunge cuts, if you bring a chainsaw with a long enough bar to go straight through the trunk of the tree, rather than having to walk around it and try to cut it a second time from the other side. The more complicated you make the job, the more likely it is that something will go wrong. If your saw doesn't go right through the other side of the trunk, the best you can do is try to guess roughly where to make the second plunge cut. If they don't join up accurately, there could be trouble!.....
Show me how you cut a rooster down
Its always a pleasure to watch somebody who knows what he´s doing. Impressive precision there...
Thank you for the great lesson - subbed!
Adrian Dümpelhuber thank you. It wasn't perfect but the basics were right.
This is how not to film how to cut down a tree. Show me an angle where I can actually see the cut!!
If you know how to cut down a tree you don't need to see his cut you know exactly what he is doing but the plunge cut he's doing is different
@@kevino1945 If I knew how to cut down a tree why would I be watching this?
This is very informative I am doing level two forestry to become a crosscutter this is the help I need thanks so much 😁
blame your brother for not sharpening the teeth lol
your English is spot on, you speak PERFECT!!!
great video, nice work, thanks
Husqvarna does have the aiming lines for felling now
Being a Swede and just beginning to learn I have to point out a few things. 1. This is a birch and a healthy one so the hinge will do a great job. 2. It's a leaner and towards the spot you're felling it, wich is nice when it's a birch and not an alder that could barber chair on you. 3. Bore cut is the standard here in Sweden but not everywhere else but if it were an alder for instance it would be good to mention that bore cutting is especially good if the tree is leaning your way and is prone to barber chairing. 4. Americans never (from what I've gathered from TH-cam) do the upper-cut first and we do it why? I assume for extra safety since the risk of the wood pinching the blade is lower when it's leaning in the same direction you're felling. 5. I always bore-cut from the other side first so that my angle is away from damaging the hinge when I angle the blade (to avoid the kick-back). 6. When I've made the bore-cut from one side (given that the blade goes all the way through) I check so that I have the same hinge-wood on both sides before I leave my "safe-corner". The safe-corner is where the last piece of holding wood is left and the direction in which I can run if shit hits the fan so to speak. After I have my safe-corner and my wedges in place I cut the last piece of holding wood, standing in a place where I can safely escape the tree when it's falling.
In short: you did everything correctly but missed a few explanations.
Your cameraperson needs to learn how to film what you're doing without either you or the tree in the way. I can't see a thing.
Your first cut was made with you in the way, and the third had the tree in the way.
Susan you have me stumped as to how you would set up the tripod and operate the chainsaw without hitting the cow. Getting it wood rightlly turn out well if you have the curves I have the angles . LOL
@@stevenbryant4718 : If he was doing the filming and the cutting all by himself, then he would need a tripod. Otherwise, if someone else was holding the camera, they could have hand-held it (they used to do that for the movies in the early days) and she or he could have walked around until they could see what he was trying to explain.
I really appreciate the videos you and your brother post. I firmly believe anyone getting into chainsaws for the first time, would do well to watch your videos. Thanks for posting.
There is a rooster calling out to be soup stock.
You, my good sir, are a teacher.
With plunging a chainsaw in aren't you risking kick back as soon as as you touch the tree with the tip? I would be pretty nervous doing that
Brendan Fitzgerald my thougth to. But he starts with the top of the saw to cut a small groove before plunging it, but if you are not use to working with saws this could end up in a kick back.
There are two sides to the tip the underside pulls the top pushes the tip kicks.. Use the underside to start the plunge and when its really in there pivot your tip into the tree..
I love the little Cookie Monster grabbing a couple of bites while singing. Thank you for sharing and Merry Christmas
No reason for a plunge cut on a tree that small with that saw. No reason to use wedges either. Not a good video for amateurs to learn from.
I will say the "blunt saw" bit was ironic, and dang ,could have made hamburgers out of the cow, would have made this a classic vid. Lucky it was not a curious child .
so two good errors somebody might learn from.
A 20 inch husky would have that tree down in 2 minutes without the need for wegges
The plunge cut us what is taught and the international standard for most basic fellings.
But it is a dangerous cut for amateurs.
And anyone with cows and trees know this: cut a tree down and they come running to strip the leaves off!
What is a plunge cut? On that tree
I agree with your safety stand friend, that's the main reason I don't do really light chain saw work on the ground and nothing very big. I have felled a rather large half split oak but I won't again probably, unless it's on my own property.
Through the weeds ran a thousand Swedes all chased by one Finlander lol your over complicating an easy task . Like your tool belt and choice of saw and PPE all very good
Amazing skill. Thanks very much for teaching us
like one old man said to me....Listen to me now! You have to know exactly where the tree lands...not assume,that yeah!! ....it will probably hit that place ova there.....
Thanks so much, you are a very good teacher!
I find it very strange, that you use the upper part of the blade's tip to plunge cut. (or are my eyes deceiving me?) This screams kickback to me. I am told, and use the lower part of the blade's tip, go to full revs and plunge it for a forward sweeping motion.
Exactly. Begin those plunge cuts with the starting corner or the bottom half of the bar tip.
but it you notice part of the tree is between him and the blade. all it would do is kick into the tree.
Wouter d.B. He pushes the top of the saw in first then swivels over cutting with the bottom, he only uses the tip as a swivel point. It's totally safe but it's a method only skilled loggers use
He does cut it correctly by the angle he attacks his cut, It should not kick back unless there is no forward pressure into the tree,
I use that cut every day... that's a safe way to cut but only for experienced loggers... the saw won't kick back if you do it right. I use a normal full house grind chain and it don't kick back. Unless you have filed the drags down to much... lol
Thank you my friend ... God bless you always . Keep up your good works for God and others.
The world need someone like you to make this planet better and better.