Thank you for watching my video. This is one of my first videos that I have made. So to see this have so many views and positive comments is quite amazing to me. I really appreciate it. My buddy BJ that did the great editing of this video says that I need more subscribers. So if you could please subscribe I would really be greatful. Thank you for watching
Totally disagree with your methodology and chemical that you use. - the crack was supposed to be air blown (cleaned), primed with primer to enhance proper bondage on the cracked sides of the concrete surface and filled with liquid crack filler since you have patched the top surface only and the sides of cracked surface don't have a proper substrate to receive / bond new material. - Never to polish the concrete surface since it will make it shiny smooth and loose your bond b/n the old concrete surface and epoxy. This will definitely will shear your epoxy coating especially when you steer your wheels on the garage. I recommend you to apply a light acid coat to itch-up the concrete surface to create proper bondage between the concrete surface and the epoxy paint. - Finally, mix and apply your epoxy coating as per the manufacturers instruction.
@@Ath551 He didn’t video every step. He mentioned etching the concrete and that’s part of the Rustoleum EpoxyShield kit and directions. I wondered the same as you whether or not he blew out the crack after leveling. I’d assume he did but if so, like the etching, he didn’t show it. The best way to insure adhesion is to abrade the surface but EpoxyShield is a DIY home use product and not a true epoxy and therefore is too thin. That’s why they recommend etching.
Dude I've been thinking about doing my garage. The cracks drive me insane. But they are tiny cracks in a lot of places lol This is a great video thought it had to have a sealer rolled over it. I wonder if i still have to do all the grinding and filling if moat of them are tiny. And suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Nice job. Attention to detail. I've heard pros and cons to acid wash. Some guys advise using grinder on entire floor rather than acid wash. Also, using the epoxy filler to do total fill of the cracks rather than placing some kind of packing down in the deeper parts is the correct way to do it. It's elastic and allows contraction and expansion of the concrete slab better
Nice video thanks. Would have been cool to see the acid wash step as you kinda skipped over it but mentioned it. Also, I would think those shards flakes of whatever that stuff is will break down over time and end up in the house.
I realize this video was posted 8 months ago but any chance you recall what color flakes you used? Thanks for posting this. Great guidance for my diy planned.
Well done, Couple Questions, in the event that a new crack appeared could you just redo the steps taken in the video even though its been epoxy covered already? Have you had to do that and did new crack repair camouflage into the existing epoxy coating?
That’s actually a great question. So let’s say you fixed all your cracks, cleaned and acid washed, epoxied the floor, and put 2 coats of sealer on. That’s quite a bit of work. Then later on new cracks appear. Since you know what products you used on the first part the repairs will be easy. What you would do is sand down the area a few inches on both sides of the crack. Then fill the cracks with the two part epoxy mix. After getting that all completed you would need to get probably the one car garage kit and apply it to the sanded area. Sanding the epoxy will create a rough surface for the new epoxy to bond to. Then of course apply the chips and then the sealer. You should be all set after that. Little secret about these flake floors is the heavier the chip pattern the easier it is to repair. Even if the color was off a little you can just dump a bunch of chip on it and never see the color difference. Good luck on your project I hope this was helpful. Thank you for watching.
I used this EpoxyShield in my laundry room. It looked great at first, but after about a year or so, it started to peel away. Unfortunately, there are areas where it's washed off and other areas where it hasn't. I don't want to paint over the entire floor again, and am not sure how patching that section will look.
To get a perfect looking floor I would have to suggest grinding the floor and starting over. Now if you didn’t want to go that extreme you could clean the entire floor. Then sand all the damaged areas with a heavy grit sand paper. Then take the same product and chips that you purchased before and apply it to those areas. Now this is really important if you didn’t put the clear coat on the first time I would suggest using it this time but you are going to have to sand the whole floor with the sand paper. So definitely do that first. Sanding it is very important because the minor scratches will give the clear something to adhere to. Then go about doing the repairs. Finally put the clear on and it should be close to 100%. If you have any questions feel free to ask. Thank you for watching
I don’t see why you couldn’t. Your main concern would be to make sure the repaired crack is the same level as the floor. You wouldn’t want to have noticeable vein that would show when you epoxied the floor. Thank you for watching
Tell me more about hydraulic cement. Can this be easily purchased? Can it be used to fix the missing chunks as well as the cracks? How well does it wear over time? Thanks so much
That came out very nice. Were you using a 4.5 inch grinder with that Diamapro 5 inch disk? And did you have to use an extender to keep it away from the guard? My garage floor cracks look much like the ones you did so I would like to give this a shot. I have a 4.5 inch grinder so want to make sure the 5 inch disk will work on it.
I do. But for this video I was trying to show that the average person can get it done without spending the large dollars for that setup. Thank you for watching
Back in the day, a cracked slab was the kiss of death for a house. I guess it was something the owner could deal with but trying to sell it, was another story.
This type of product should not be used outside. It doesn’t have the uv protection that you need. For outdoor surfaces you should use H&C Acyladeck from Sherwin Williams.
@@tidaleffect7844 great! thank you sir, I have finished my project following some tips from yours and it looks great! thank you sir th-cam.com/video/p1QrctpCCjI/w-d-xo.html
I use the bags that come with the kit or I use H&C etching solution that’s sold at Sherwin Williams. If I had to choose I would choose the H&C solution. I think it’s stronger. Good luck with your project. Thank you for watching
Hey Ryan. That’s a good question. What kind of paint is on the floor. If it is Xylene based then you want have to stick to those type of products. If it water based then you have to stick to those. I always sand the floor if there is already a coating. You want the floor to be pourous. That way the epoxy will have something to latch on to. If the floor is already coated with the rust oleum epoxy and you absolutely don’t want to sand the floor you could double or triple acid wash the floor. You would be taking a risk though. If you do choose not to sand I would strongly suggest you put no less than two coats of the sealer down. Good luck with your project.
@@tidaleffect7844 It was painted from the builder and starting to peal, so I have been considering doing epoxy or having someone do it. Its a 3 car garrage and almost 650sqft. Its alot of grey paint to remove before I can even etch it.
Does it have Tge chips in it? If it doesn’t then I would definitely sand it. Some builders don’t have good vendors. So sometimes they will just paint with porch paint. I even seen it where they painted the floor with wall paint. Sanding isn’t a big deal. You can rent the floor maintainer and the diamond coating removal tool from Home Depot. Probably would take four hours to sand at cost of 2-300 dollars. Just remember to wet the floor before you start sanding. Working with the sander is a bit of a beast. Best way to describe it is. Take a young cow by the horns and hold strong. You may also inquire at your local Sherwin Williams about people who sand floors for a living. They will have even better machines that collect the dust also. Probably cost 4-500 dollars to have them come in and do it.
@@tidaleffect7844 no chips, and probably 15 years old. the local guys. want $5 a square foot for full flake systems... so I would be right around $3,000
That’s a good idea. I watch a guy make make a bunch of cuts with a concrete saw that went across the crack. Then he put a long screw in the cut and continued on with the repair. I think that would be really good to. Definitely a good idea. Thank you for watching
Yes Sir. If the concrete company would have taking more time in preparing the ground before laying the slab this would have either never happened or been very minor. Prep is the most important thing. Thank you for watching
To fill the depth of the cracks, I use locking paver sand. Tap around the area with a large mallet or hammer to settle the sand and then apply the crack repair. 👍🏻
I was thinking of doing something similar to that. But I figured it didn’t really matter being that I would have to come back and basically top the cracks off because of the sinkage. I’ll definitely give that a try though. Thank you for watching.
Sand and backer rod work for when you just caulking a crack to prevent water intrusion but for repairing a crack before applying a finished top coat, you want the epoxy to fill the crack for overall strength. I think the two-step process is the best way, even if it takes longer to do it.
He didn’t show it but listening to the narrative, I believe that the floor was only etched before applying the Rustoleum product. That would be consistent with the EpoxyShield kits and their instructions. Most DIYer’s would not have access to shot blasting equipmentt, which is what the pros use in commercial applications before applying true epoxy coatings. The problem is, most of those companies don’t want to do residential because of limited square footage. You can rent a small walk behind grinder from HD and others but not sure how well they work to scarify the surface.
Great job! You raised the value of the house 10 to 12 thousand dollars in most areas. Cracked footer and slab makes most houses unsaleable. Must have been a Centex or DR Horton house.
Yeah, I made sure the builders used heavy steel mesh reinforcement in our garage floor because I'd seen so many other cracked floors. Ten yrs later no cracks in our garage floor even though two vehicles drive over it every day
The problem is they don't put in control joints if they don't use heavy mesh or rebar - most concrete will crack but if you put control joints in(no more than 8 ft in any direction) at least you can control where the concrete cracks will be.
Great video it was not to long...heck, I would have taken more information. I have a concrete patio with color stain on it. Do sand that first and do some kind of a wash. Is there some kind of a stain remover I should use first.
Did this to my brothers barber shop with no knowledge whatsoever, i had extra tile mortar at home used that for the cracks as you did, everything has a process if you're thinking of doing a remodel keep in mind it will tk a few days maybe even weeks depending on what you are doing 5yrs later his shop is as it was since we first did it 🙌
Nice work. How many pounds of chips did you use? The acid etch looked really nice and opened concrete pores. Any reason not to prime the concrete before the epoxy?
I used somewhere around 20 pounds. With a floor like this I just buy more than I need and then take the ones I don’t use back to the store. Priming is not required or suggested per the instructions of this product. In my experience this kit is more for light use. What I mean is the regular homeowner is going to park there car on it, move there lawn mower around, or maybe do some light diy projects. If you are going to use this product and want it to be more durable you should use the epoxy shied product that they sell. It will create a very hard shell over the top of the epoxy. Also it will make it a lot more chemical resistant. 2 coats of the Epoxy Shield is suggested and applied is a cross thatched pattern. Thank you for watching the video. If you have any other questions just let me know.
While a big improvement over bare concrete, there is no way those cracks are permanently repaired. Those cracks will return. Especially where the slabs have lifted or sunk. Those slab surface coatings look really good. But people shouldn't have unrealistic expectations about cracks not returning.
love the video, gives me a boost of energy and motivation to want to try this myself! While I'm not very experienced in this area but never turning turning down a challenge I just have 2 questions. One being did you floor grind the entire concrete or just the cracks? The second being that I read through the comments and unless I'm mistaken I only seen things on the blade that you used, by chance would you have any recommendations on any specific floor grinders?
Ya you can tell he's not a professional. Should have relief cuts made , diamond grind the concrete first and how he applied the flake. But looks good for now
@@thebeddoctor4273 Thanks for the insight. I was just curious because my neighbors driveway is cracking due to the ground shifting. I see this as a temp fix.
great video on this. you said to sweep out the garage after grinding right. I had rented a big grinder with Diamond blades so i had alot of dust. should i just sweep it all out and use my leaf blower to finish up? or use a pressure washer get all the dust out. ? thanks
Where do you live that has red ants? I live in Texas and all the red ants have been killed by the fire ants. I enjoyed the video. I'm sure the audio will improve as you do more. Lots of great info and comments. Thanks!
Thanks for such an inspiring and chill video and for sharing your technique; especially taking the paint and sprinkle in sections, that took me by surprise; but ends up looking blended and beautiful-excellent work!
You did not explain the Acid wash ? What product did you use ? How to apply it ? Was there some chips that did not fully attach to the grey epoxy and you blew them out , I thought you put a clear sealer over it ??
Great looking results but I wonder about the longevity of the Rustoleum product. Isn’t Rustoleum a water based hybrid epoxy designed for homeowners as a DIY product?
Thank you for watching my video. This is one of my first videos that I have made. So to see this have so many views and positive comments is quite amazing to me. I really appreciate it. My buddy BJ that did the great editing of this video says that I need more subscribers. So if you could please subscribe I would really be greatful. Thank you for watching
Totally disagree with your methodology and chemical that you use.
- the crack was supposed to be air blown (cleaned), primed with primer to enhance proper bondage on the cracked sides of the concrete surface and filled with liquid crack filler since you have patched the top surface only and the sides of cracked surface don't have a proper substrate to receive / bond new material.
- Never to polish the concrete surface since it will make it shiny smooth and loose your bond b/n the old concrete surface and epoxy. This will definitely will shear your epoxy coating especially when you steer your wheels on the garage. I recommend you to apply a light acid coat to itch-up the concrete surface to create proper bondage between the concrete surface and the epoxy paint.
- Finally, mix and apply your epoxy coating as per the manufacturers instruction.
We can do that for the drive way
There are many brand of epoxy we can u
What is the best epoxy we can use
Name and price and where it’s sold
Thank you
@@Ath551 thank you
@@Ath551 He didn’t video every step. He mentioned etching the concrete and that’s part of the Rustoleum EpoxyShield kit and directions. I wondered the same as you whether or not he blew out the crack after leveling. I’d assume he did but if so, like the etching, he didn’t show it. The best way to insure adhesion is to abrade the surface but EpoxyShield is a DIY home use product and not a true epoxy and therefore is too thin. That’s why they recommend etching.
Prep work is EVERYTHING. Very well done.
This work is a work of art and the explanation with all the details is very complete. It does not include the teacher's name. Thanks for the video.
A piece of art. Thanks for the message of transformation.
Thank you Bert I appreciate that. Thank you for watching
This is what my garage floor looks like. Cracked!!
Hello 👋🏽
Great job,you should be proud of the work you did.
Thank you. That means a lot to me.
Dude I've been thinking about doing my garage. The cracks drive me insane. But they are tiny cracks in a lot of places lol
This is a great video thought it had to have a sealer rolled over it.
I wonder if i still have to do all the grinding and filling if moat of them are tiny. And suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Loved the your completed project!! Awesome! very inspiring! You just motivated me and gave me some confidence!
Amazing job!!!
Excellent job my friend. Looks very good and inspiring. Thank you.
Your welcome. It’s not hard you will do great. Thank you for watching
Nice job. Attention to detail. I've heard pros and cons to acid wash. Some guys advise using grinder on entire floor rather than acid wash. Also, using the epoxy filler to do total fill of the cracks rather than placing some kind of packing down in the deeper parts is the correct way to do it. It's elastic and allows contraction and expansion of the concrete slab better
Makes a big difference. Thanks!
I wish I could be as chill as you when doing projects like this. I get so amped up lol
Great job!! And I love your music
Nice video thanks. Would have been cool to see the acid wash step as you kinda skipped over it but mentioned it. Also, I would think those shards flakes of whatever that stuff is will break down over time and end up in the house.
Looks amazing!
THANK YOU. FOR. SHOWING YOUR VIDEO , AMAZING JOB LORK GREAT.
It's perfect! Question is how long will the repair last as the foundation is cracked and always moving?
I realize this video was posted 8 months ago but any chance you recall what color flakes you used? Thanks for posting this. Great guidance for my diy planned.
Wow that came out really good…. I have way worse cracks though lol super uneven and deep to
Great video, I used scotts battery hand held seed spreader to apply chips works great.
Job well done.
Super duper job done ✔ 🙌
It looks real good. Sweet little ant wanted to help.
Looks very nice
Nice job man. Thanks. A question: what roller did you use to paint the floor?
Nice job! Thank you, for the insight 🙏
Well done,
Couple Questions, in the event that a new crack appeared could you just redo the steps taken in the video even though its been epoxy covered already?
Have you had to do that and did new crack repair camouflage into the existing epoxy coating?
That’s actually a great question. So let’s say you fixed all your cracks, cleaned and acid washed, epoxied the floor, and put 2 coats of sealer on. That’s quite a bit of work. Then later on new cracks appear. Since you know what products you used on the first part the repairs will be easy. What you would do is sand down the area a few inches on both sides of the crack. Then fill the cracks with the two part epoxy mix. After getting that all completed you would need to get probably the one car garage kit and apply it to the sanded area. Sanding the epoxy will create a rough surface for the new epoxy to bond to. Then of course apply the chips and then the sealer. You should be all set after that. Little secret about these flake floors is the heavier the chip pattern the easier it is to repair. Even if the color was off a little you can just dump a bunch of chip on it and never see the color difference. Good luck on your project I hope this was helpful. Thank you for watching.
@@tidaleffect7844 Hey thanks for the response and direction, that is exactly what I was wondering 👍
I used this EpoxyShield in my laundry room. It looked great at first, but after about a year or so, it started to peel away. Unfortunately, there are areas where it's washed off and other areas where it hasn't. I don't want to paint over the entire floor again, and am not sure how patching that section will look.
To get a perfect looking floor I would have to suggest grinding the floor and starting over. Now if you didn’t want to go that extreme you could clean the entire floor. Then sand all the damaged areas with a heavy grit sand paper. Then take the same product and chips that you purchased before and apply it to those areas. Now this is really important if you didn’t put the clear coat on the first time I would suggest using it this time but you are going to have to sand the whole floor with the sand paper. So definitely do that first. Sanding it is very important because the minor scratches will give the clear something to adhere to. Then go about doing the repairs. Finally put the clear on and it should be close to 100%. If you have any questions feel free to ask. Thank you for watching
What song is that used I heard that somewhere. LONG LIFE to The ANT
I assume you can use this in your basement as well?
Definitely.
Great video!!!!
Good job nice video
Repair the crack or covered the crack?
When doing the crack filling, why can't a person use hydraulic cement? It can be mixed thin and expands as it dries
I don’t see why you couldn’t. Your main concern would be to make sure the repaired crack is the same level as the floor. You wouldn’t want to have noticeable vein that would show when you epoxied the floor. Thank you for watching
Tell me more about hydraulic cement.
Can this be easily purchased?
Can it be used to fix the missing chunks as well as the cracks?
How well does it wear over time?
Thanks so much
What kind of blade did you use to smooth out the epoxy once you filled in all the cracks ?
NICE!
How many bags of chips did you use?
It seems like the chips would add quite a bit of texture, or do they smooth out?
Great job 👌
Thank you
What kind of floor sealer did you use? You mentioned Lowes but I don't see it in a pouch on their website.
Did you scrub it after you sanded the patch or just sweep it out?
if the height of the cracks is different can you still use the same technique or is there something else you'd suggest? Beautiful job on this floor!
That’s why he was grinding the concrete
Awesome job budz
I'm now inspired to do my own. Looks great 👍
How many boxes did you use your very liberal with the chips
That came out very nice. Were you using a 4.5 inch grinder with that Diamapro 5 inch disk? And did you have to use an extender to keep it away from the guard? My garage floor cracks look much like the ones you did so I would like to give this a shot. I have a 4.5 inch grinder so want to make sure the 5 inch disk will work on it.
Dewalt makes a smaller one. I think you should look into that one. Thank you for watching
Why don’t you use a dust shroud and vac setup ? Genuinely curious .
I do. But for this video I was trying to show that the average person can get it done without spending the large dollars for that setup. Thank you for watching
Back in the day, a cracked slab was the kiss of death for a house. I guess it was something the owner could deal with but trying to sell it, was another story.
Is that Johnny Sims?
Wat part of florida?
How many Boxes did u use?
Where you get those chips?
Torginol.com for specialty chips. You can get any color mix you want. Thank you for watching
how does this stand up over time? I notice its indoors. (should be fine) - but what about exposed to the weather?
This type of product should not be used outside. It doesn’t have the uv protection that you need. For outdoor surfaces you should use H&C Acyladeck from Sherwin Williams.
You Sir would’ve made an excellent Navy SeaBee
Did you use the diamond pro to sand it the second time as well?
Yes. But very gently. I let the machine do all the work. I also feather it out. Thank you for watching
Is the acid wash required before laying the epoxy?
Yes. It creates little holes the epoxy can get embedded in. Which prevents it from peeling. Thank you for watching
Can you link the materials that You used?
how much decorative chips did you add??? how many bags ?
When I do these projects I buy more than I need and then take the ones I didn’t use back for a refund. Usually I buy around ten bags or more.
@@tidaleffect7844 great! thank you sir, I have finished my project following some tips from yours and it looks great! thank you sir th-cam.com/video/p1QrctpCCjI/w-d-xo.html
btw I have applied the rustoleum rocksolid which supposed to be stronger and better than epoxy, great job my friend!
The acid wash was that or what product you used
I use the bags that come with the kit or I use H&C etching solution that’s sold at Sherwin Williams. If I had to choose I would choose the H&C solution. I think it’s stronger. Good luck with your project. Thank you for watching
If the floor is already painted with garage floor paint.. will i need to grind the whole floor?
Hey Ryan. That’s a good question. What kind of paint is on the floor. If it is Xylene based then you want have to stick to those type of products. If it water based then you have to stick to those. I always sand the floor if there is already a coating. You want the floor to be pourous. That way the epoxy will have something to latch on to. If the floor is already coated with the rust oleum epoxy and you absolutely don’t want to sand the floor you could double or triple acid wash the floor. You would be taking a risk though. If you do choose not to sand I would strongly suggest you put no less than two coats of the sealer down. Good luck with your project.
@@tidaleffect7844 It was painted from the builder and starting to peal, so I have been considering doing epoxy or having someone do it. Its a 3 car garrage and almost 650sqft. Its alot of grey paint to remove before I can even etch it.
Does it have Tge chips in it? If it doesn’t then I would definitely sand it. Some builders don’t have good vendors. So sometimes they will just paint with porch paint. I even seen it where they painted the floor with wall paint. Sanding isn’t a big deal. You can rent the floor maintainer and the diamond coating removal tool from Home Depot. Probably would take four hours to sand at cost of 2-300 dollars. Just remember to wet the floor before you start sanding. Working with the sander is a bit of a beast. Best way to describe it is. Take a young cow by the horns and hold strong. You may also inquire at your local Sherwin Williams about people who sand floors for a living. They will have even better machines that collect the dust also. Probably cost 4-500 dollars to have them come in and do it.
@@tidaleffect7844 no chips, and probably 15 years old. the local guys. want $5 a square foot for full flake systems... so I would be right around $3,000
Yes. That would be the best. Otherwise you could acid wash it a couple of times and hope for the best. Sorry I couldn’t give you an easier answer.
I can see another distinguishable "crack"
Why not fill the cracks with concrete?
You can fill it with a fast setting concrete mix. But for these floors I was showing how to use Rust-Oleum products.
The grinding it by far the worst. So much dust. Tape the cracks in your doors 😅
You forgot to explain the fish hook's purpose
This product DOESN’T work
I tried 2 times and it bubbled after a few days when moping or entering the garage with wet tires!!!!!
I think I would have drilled holes and injected epoxy in there instead.
That’s a good idea. I watch a guy make make a bunch of cuts with a concrete saw that went across the crack. Then he put a long screw in the cut and continued on with the repair. I think that would be really good to. Definitely a good idea. Thank you for watching
Awesome, boring job, but Nice Clean Look))
Yeah you just have to focus on the finish. Thank you for watching
@@tidaleffect7844 questions?? What did u use to sand the epoxy?? Also, did u move out the water heater or just paint around all of those? Thanks!
Did u use a GoPro to film??
a million years from now... that ant will be found encased in epoxy....
If I do this to our garage, my wife will think I am her hero.
Then You are a hero!😊
Thanks for not hurting the ant 🐜..
Lol I was thinking the same thing.
He later poured gas on every ant hill on his lawn and burned the mass of them…
It’s hard to like people that are evil.
As with many concrete ‘repair’ jobs, ‘prep’ seems to be the ultimate consideration. Do you agree? Great job & attention to detail!
Yes Sir. If the concrete company would have taking more time in preparing the ground before laying the slab this would have either never happened or been very minor. Prep is the most important thing. Thank you for watching
Beautiful job man, I absolutely love the finished look.
Thank you
Did it crack again?
Mine hasn't after 1 year
To fill the depth of the cracks, I use locking paver sand. Tap around the area with a large mallet or hammer to settle the sand and then apply the crack repair. 👍🏻
I was thinking of doing something similar to that. But I figured it didn’t really matter being that I would have to come back and basically top the cracks off because of the sinkage. I’ll definitely give that a try though. Thank you for watching.
Sand and backer rod work for when you just caulking a crack to prevent water intrusion but for repairing a crack before applying a finished top coat, you want the epoxy to fill the crack for overall strength. I think the two-step process is the best way, even if it takes longer to do it.
Great work - can you show us how you sanded the floor after repairing the cracks?
Same way as he sanded it before filling the cracks.
He didn’t show it but listening to the narrative, I believe that the floor was only etched before applying the Rustoleum product. That would be consistent with the EpoxyShield kits and their instructions. Most DIYer’s would not have access to shot blasting equipmentt, which is what the pros use in commercial applications before applying true epoxy coatings. The problem is, most of those companies don’t want to do residential because of limited square footage. You can rent a small walk behind grinder from HD and others but not sure how well they work to scarify the surface.
This video is exactly what I needed. Nice work! Looks great, I’ll be tackling the cracks in my garage.🤙🏻
Me too! I just breathed a sigh of relief cuz I was getting crazy high quotes for this
Great work, you should advertise your company
Great job! You raised the value of the house 10 to 12 thousand dollars in most areas. Cracked footer and slab makes most houses unsaleable. Must have been a Centex or DR Horton house.
Yeah, I made sure the builders used heavy steel mesh reinforcement in our garage floor because I'd seen so many other cracked floors. Ten yrs later no cracks in our garage floor even though two vehicles drive over it every day
The problem is they don't put in control joints if they don't use heavy mesh or rebar - most concrete will crack but if you put control joints in(no more than 8 ft in any direction) at least you can control where the concrete cracks will be.
Looks great! Thanks for creating this video to inspire us!
Great video it was not to long...heck, I would have taken more information. I have a concrete patio with color stain on it. Do sand that first and do some kind of a wash. Is there some kind of a stain remover I should use first.
First step: empty garage…🤯
Did this to my brothers barber shop with no knowledge whatsoever, i had extra tile mortar at home used that for the cracks as you did, everything has a process if you're thinking of doing a remodel keep in mind it will tk a few days maybe even weeks depending on what you are doing 5yrs later his shop is as it was since we first did it 🙌
Nice work. How many pounds of chips did you use? The acid etch looked really nice and opened concrete pores. Any reason not to prime the concrete before the epoxy?
I used somewhere around 20 pounds.
With a floor like this I just buy more than I need and then take the ones I don’t use back to the store.
Priming is not required or suggested per the instructions of this product. In my experience this kit is more for light use. What I mean is the regular homeowner is going to park there car on it, move there lawn mower around, or maybe do some light diy projects. If you are going to use this product and want it to be more durable you should use the epoxy shied product that they sell. It will create a very hard shell over the top of the epoxy. Also it will make it a lot more chemical resistant. 2 coats of the Epoxy Shield is suggested and applied is a cross thatched pattern.
Thank you for watching the video. If you have any other questions just let me know.
Nice job! That looks great!
While a big improvement over bare concrete, there is no way those cracks are permanently repaired. Those cracks will return. Especially where the slabs have lifted or sunk. Those slab surface coatings look really good. But people shouldn't have unrealistic expectations about cracks not returning.
Looks like leveling issues regarding the foundation.
How long before the cracks came back?
No ants were harmed in the making of this video.........
love the video, gives me a boost of energy and motivation to want to try this myself! While I'm not very experienced in this area but never turning turning down a challenge I just have 2 questions. One being did you floor grind the entire concrete or just the cracks? The second being that I read through the comments and unless I'm mistaken I only seen things on the blade that you used, by chance would you have any recommendations on any specific floor grinders?
Great video. What was that white line at the beginning of the garage?
Awesome and thank you
What about the "ground shifting" problem? It's just going to crack in other areas..🤔🤔🤔
Ya you can tell he's not a professional. Should have relief cuts made , diamond grind the concrete first and how he applied the flake. But looks good for now
@@thebeddoctor4273 Thanks for the insight. I was just curious because my neighbors driveway is cracking due to the ground shifting. I see this as a temp fix.
Thank you for watching.
@@tidaleffect7844 it's an interesting video- well done.
great video on this. you said to sweep out the garage after grinding right. I had rented a big grinder with Diamond blades so i had alot of dust. should i just sweep it all out and use my leaf blower to finish up? or use a pressure washer get all the dust out. ? thanks
Where do you live that has red ants? I live in Texas and all the red ants have been killed by the fire ants. I enjoyed the video. I'm sure the audio will improve as you do more. Lots of great info and comments. Thanks!
Quick question do you have to put the pieces in or can you just leave it gray ?
Nice job and very helpful
Nice job.
Thanks for such an inspiring and chill video and for sharing your technique; especially taking the paint and sprinkle in sections, that took me by surprise; but ends up looking blended and beautiful-excellent work!
The killer ant….😆 The floor looks really nice!
Thank you. Lol that ant is famous and does whatever he wants.
You did not explain the Acid wash ?
What product did you use ?
How to apply it ?
Was there some chips that did not fully attach to the grey epoxy and you blew them out , I thought you put a clear sealer over it ??
Nice one
Great looking results but I wonder about the longevity of the Rustoleum product. Isn’t Rustoleum a water based hybrid epoxy designed for homeowners as a DIY product?