Awesome comparison. Keep it up!! I’m down to the Matthew Lift 29.5, Hoyt Alpha X30, and PSE Evolve 30 DS. My draw length is at a whopping 26 inches. So I’ve got to find the happy medium for comfort, shoot ability, and speed.
I have a phase 4 33 right now. Lift 33 on order. I had zero issues this year hunting out of a tree and ground blind. I agree with what you said about if you have a longer drawlength 29” and up your going to love the 33.
I currently shoot a 33" hoyt from my saddle. I gotta be more picky with my trees, not too dense when it comes to limbs but it works. As far as the reflex goes, less reflex makes the bow torque less. The further your hand is behind the pivot point of the bow, the amount of torque induced gets multiplied.
Thanks for the input. That’s what I’ve seen as well hunting from a saddle with my rx7 ultra. Also, thats what I have always heard as far as reflex, but I keep getting questions about how I can prove that it actually matters. I can’t find anything that proves how reflex actually affects torque.
Both great bows! I went with the 29.5 purely because it met my expectations more. I hunt from tree stands, saddles and ground blinds so I wanted to go with the one that would give me more clearance in tight spaces. Can’t go wrong with either bow though as they both shoot and feel amazing. Great video
Thanks for watching the channel, it’s so hard to just choose one bow to do everything, because each bow has something they are better at and worse at than the next.
I explained that in a separate video, however the sas system is intended to be used in cases when you can’t get access to a press, not in the place of a press. Also the string and cables still have to be twisted in order the change timing, which is why I didn’t give these bows a 2 in that category.
100% disagree with using bridgelock stabilizer . Unless you are keeping mathews forever . Cant use with ant other bow . If you switch brands you are going to take bigger loss on those because they are no better than other stabs and won’t bring an equal value for what they cost
They are definitely not the most cost effective option, however they are in my opinion the best or most optimized stabilizer option for those specific bows.
@@Tullminator that looks like a great option, I don’t personally have any experience with it though, so I can’t speak to how it compares to the Mathews stabilizer. Redline also makes a bridge lock stabilizer that have a carbon rod, and looks very enticing. I got to look at it at the ata show, but haven’t gotten to shoot one yet.
I agree, the Matthews stabilizer seems to be a complex and application limited solution to a problem that doesn't exist. What in the world is wrong with screwing a stabilizer in and out - and then being able to have a portfolio of stabilizers that you can swap across all your bows? Why would you add points to Matthews "just" for avoiding screwing a stabilizer in - you apparently still have to monkey around with some sort of tension device so that you can slide the Matthews stabilizer in.
I explained that in a separate video, however the sas system is intended to be used in cases when you can’t get access to a press, not in the place of a press, which is why I didn’t give these bows a 2 in that category. While the sas system could in theory be used to swap top hats, the system is intended for quick in the field fixes like needing to swap strings and cables when traveling on a hunt.
Have you ever changed top hats? There’s no way I would feel safe completely taking a cam out with SAS. It could be done I’m sure, but man I would be nervous.
@@jxhkb I'm a little confused.. The SAS connects one cam to the other, how can you remove one cam with the SAS to change top hats ? I think you necessarily need to press on the limbs, to do that. Maybe you could try it with a bowmaster bow press, even if I feel it would be very risky, but I think it's not possibile at all with the SAS.
Awesome comparison. Keep it up!! I’m down to the Matthew Lift 29.5, Hoyt Alpha X30, and PSE Evolve 30 DS. My draw length is at a whopping 26 inches. So I’ve got to find the happy medium for comfort, shoot ability, and speed.
I will hopefully have a new PSE Mach 30 to test here soon, it isn't exactly what you are looking for, but similar draw cycle and speeds.
I have a phase 4 33 right now. Lift 33 on order. I had zero issues this year hunting out of a tree and ground blind. I agree with what you said about if you have a longer drawlength 29” and up your going to love the 33.
Thank you for the feedback, and for watching the channel.
I currently shoot a 33" hoyt from my saddle. I gotta be more picky with my trees, not too dense when it comes to limbs but it works. As far as the reflex goes, less reflex makes the bow torque less. The further your hand is behind the pivot point of the bow, the amount of torque induced gets multiplied.
Thanks for the input. That’s what I’ve seen as well hunting from a saddle with my rx7 ultra. Also, thats what I have always heard as far as reflex, but I keep getting questions about how I can prove that it actually matters. I can’t find anything that proves how reflex actually affects torque.
Both great bows! I went with the 29.5 purely because it met my expectations more. I hunt from tree stands, saddles and ground blinds so I wanted to go with the one that would give me more clearance in tight spaces. Can’t go wrong with either bow though as they both shoot and feel amazing. Great video
Thanks for watching the channel, it’s so hard to just choose one bow to do everything, because each bow has something they are better at and worse at than the next.
Correction** you can adjust timing with the SAS system. In turn not needing a press to do so.
I explained that in a separate video, however the sas system is intended to be used in cases when you can’t get access to a press, not in the place of a press. Also the string and cables still have to be twisted in order the change timing, which is why I didn’t give these bows a 2 in that category.
100% disagree with using bridgelock stabilizer . Unless you are keeping mathews forever . Cant use with ant other bow . If you switch brands you are going to take bigger loss on those because they are no better than other stabs and won’t bring an equal value for what they cost
They are definitely not the most cost effective option, however they are in my opinion the best or most optimized stabilizer option for those specific bows.
What about the viper dovetail stabilizer? It's only like $89.99 for the 12 inch?
@@Tullminator that looks like a great option, I don’t personally have any experience with it though, so I can’t speak to how it compares to the Mathews stabilizer. Redline also makes a bridge lock stabilizer that have a carbon rod, and looks very enticing. I got to look at it at the ata show, but haven’t gotten to shoot one yet.
Cool, thanks! I haven't seen the Redline one yet, I'll have to check it out.
I agree, the Matthews stabilizer seems to be a complex and application limited solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
What in the world is wrong with screwing a stabilizer in and out - and then being able to have a portfolio of stabilizers that you can swap across all your bows?
Why would you add points to Matthews "just" for avoiding screwing a stabilizer in - you apparently still have to monkey around with some sort of tension device so that you can slide the Matthews stabilizer in.
You can remove cables and strings with the SAS but can’t switch top hats with it to shift cams left or right? I’m confused…
I explained that in a separate video, however the sas system is intended to be used in cases when you can’t get access to a press, not in the place of a press, which is why I didn’t give these bows a 2 in that category. While the sas system could in theory be used to swap top hats, the system is intended for quick in the field fixes like needing to swap strings and cables when traveling on a hunt.
Have you ever changed top hats? There’s no way I would feel safe completely taking a cam out with SAS. It could be done I’m sure, but man I would be nervous.
@@WiscoBowHNTR I have a press to switch top hats. My point was that it’s not impossible so it was a bit misinformative that’s all.
@@jxhkb
I'm a little confused..
The SAS connects one cam to the other, how can you remove one cam with the SAS to change top hats ?
I think you necessarily need to press on the limbs, to do that.
Maybe you could try it with a bowmaster bow press, even if I feel it would be very risky, but I think it's not possibile at all with the SAS.
Great work again! Will you do the same kind of comparison with the Rx-8/Ultra?
I will definitely do that. Thanks for watching the channel.
The riser length on the Lift 33 is longer than my TRX 38 - it's insane really. I'm hard pressed to sell the TRX and replace it with a 2nd Lift 33.
It really is wild how long the riser is on these bows.
What’s up Caleb? Like watching your bow reviews👍🏹😎
Thank you for watching.
Shooting from the saddle? Are you actually shooting from a horse?
You don’t?! How else do catch up to the deer? It’s illegal to pursue game with a 4 wheeler. Pretty much just leaves you with the ole’ saddle.