I'm going to through this one out there. I bought this exact same unit. Got it all together. My first test cut the blade never bottomed. There was about a 32nd left. I tried several more cuts, and had the same result. My blade guard is hitting the table and not allowing the blade to come down far enough to finish the cut. I'm wondering if it is just a blade adjustment ? Nothing seems to be out of wack as far as the table goes. But I didn't want to start messing with the blade alignment if that's not the case. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
it’s funny that i’m watching this the day after Christmas and myself and my nieces husband were talking about the cheap Allen Keys from Ikea i told him i throw all of them in one location and because they aren’t hardened i typically cut them down to be able to chuck them in my cordless drills ! because you can cut them with a hacksaw instead of breaking out the angle grinder with a cutoff wheel that’s always misplaced in my Woodworking shop anyways
You need a new camera. Couldn't see anything when it counted. Focus, focus, focus. Get at least a Lennox blade as most of a good cut is the blade, and of course the set up.
Thanks for the review. I just bought the tabletop model. I've only made 2 mild 1/4 inch steel cuts so far. Both dry cuts. Worked well. Did you really need all that cut oil?
Hope you still have this account, I know this is an old post, but I just bought the bench model myself. Need to cut some mild steel, 1” rod. Some wording in the manual makes me think this might not be the tool for the job. Have you cut a lot of mild steel with yours? Do you use any cutting oil( the manual says not to)? If so, what did you use? Thanks
Hi great video, I'm in the UK and have just purchased a Clarke 370W metal bandsaw that looks more or less the as the one you have apart from the name, I use Titanium and Damascus steel to make rings would you recommend getting a 24T blade instead of the standard blade.
@@tennesseesyndicate5337 All good man, i was told just to keep it cool so the steel doesn't heat up and work harden. Much like a CNC machine blows coolant on the parts.
SAME SAW (Different Kill Switch, different name at Harbor Freight, $20 cheaper and you can pick it up there. Yeah, and the SAME as a "Delta" too and Delta is $120 higher,,,JUST FOR THE NAME.,,,made in the same place by the same workers. Just a different name with a higher price. How sad is that then.
One would think, but if Harbor Freights data can be believed, their saw has 25% more HP and 35% greater Amps. Significant if true, especially with a more aggressive
You gotta move your roller guides closer to your work piece. Loosen bolts and slide them in.
Thanks. I'll do that.
I'm going to through this one out there.
I bought this exact same unit. Got it all together. My first test cut the blade never bottomed. There was about a 32nd left.
I tried several more cuts, and had the same result. My blade guard is hitting the table and not allowing the blade to come down far enough to finish the cut.
I'm wondering if it is just a blade adjustment ? Nothing seems to be out of wack as far as the table goes.
But I didn't want to start messing with the blade alignment if that's not the case.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
The allen key is for the two belt pulleys and the set screw
Yep, thanks, i figured it out eventually LOL
it’s funny that i’m watching this the day after Christmas and myself and my nieces husband were talking about the cheap Allen Keys from Ikea i told him i throw all of them in one location and because they aren’t hardened i typically cut them down to be able to chuck them in my cordless drills ! because you can cut them with a hacksaw instead of breaking out the angle grinder with a cutoff wheel that’s always misplaced in my Woodworking shop anyways
That's a good idea, I'm always losing my allen keys.
You need a new camera. Couldn't see anything when it counted. Focus, focus, focus. Get at least a Lennox blade as most of a good cut is the blade, and of course the set up.
Thanks. I'll look into the blade. I have since upgraded my camera :)
Thanks for the review. I just bought the tabletop model. I've only made 2 mild 1/4 inch steel cuts so far. Both dry cuts. Worked well. Did you really need all that cut oil?
I used water. It's better on steel to keep it cool. Cuts better.
Hope you still have this account, I know this is an old post, but I just bought the bench model myself. Need to cut some mild steel, 1” rod. Some wording in the manual makes me think this might not be the tool for the job. Have you cut a lot of mild steel with yours? Do you use any cutting oil( the manual says not to)? If so, what did you use? Thanks
Helpful hint on focusing.. put your hand next to things that you want it to focus on. Would you still recommend the saw?
Yes, i just used it yesterday!
Great video thanks! Does it cut Square in the swing down position and also with the vertical table attachment?
It has from my experience
Hi great video, I'm in the UK and have just purchased a Clarke 370W metal bandsaw that looks more or less the as the one you have apart from the name, I use Titanium and Damascus steel to make rings would you recommend getting a 24T blade instead of the standard blade.
It wouldn't hurt to get a nicer blade but the stock one does work, just keep it cool.
Can you do pie cuts on there? 4.5 and 9 degrees etc. Tia
Yes, the vise allows that
That Allen wrench that drove you crazy- it also fit the stock stop rod setscrew too?
Probably yes.
What brand of blade will you get next?
I haven't really looked yet, have any suggestions?
+1 for Lennox
Is this in Mono?
mono.... sound? what?
Is that as fast as the blade moves?
No, it has several speeds
great video thank you sir.
Very welcome
what type of lubricant you use on the saw?
For steel or stainless I use just water to keep it cool
Enrique arrieta guajardo a gallon
Use cutting oil for goodness sake
On steel I've found pure water is best to keep temps down and will save the blade. I do have cutting fluid and use it very religiously
Ok iv never used water but as a gearhead that was killing me. But nice video im consider klutch for building rat rod trucks
All good brother, it was a trick I learned from an old timer at a shop I used to work at
Cool ill be sure to try it out
@@tennesseesyndicate5337 All good man, i was told just to keep it cool so the steel doesn't heat up and work harden. Much like a CNC machine blows coolant on the parts.
Can you cut 45 degrees?
Yes
Looks exactly like the Harbor freight model.
Probably is under a different name. Grizzly
HF, according to their specs has 25% more HP and 35% more Amps. Significant if true, especially with a more aggressive blade at slower speeds.
SAME SAW (Different Kill Switch, different name at Harbor Freight, $20 cheaper and you can pick it up there. Yeah, and the SAME as a "Delta" too and Delta is $120 higher,,,JUST FOR THE NAME.,,,made in the same place by the same workers. Just a different name with a higher price. How sad is that then.
Yep, sold in many different places under different names. Happens all the time.
According to HF's specs, theirs has 25% more HP and 35% more Amps than Klutch. Significant if true. Certainly greater than margin of error.
Maybe true. I haven't gone down that rabbit hole enough to be able to compare.
Reviews are done after extended use not unboxing . Unboxing is useless wish channels would stop it it pointless
That first 60 seconds was painful. Then I left
Cool, enjoy the walk out.
The Klutch is a Harbor Freight is a WEN is a Grizzly is a...
One would think, but if Harbor Freights data can be believed, their saw has 25% more HP and 35% greater Amps. Significant if true, especially with a more aggressive