Innovating in the Desert: AC With No Electricity
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A key design consideration for any off-grid desert location is HVAC. How am I going to heat or cool this thing? My brief to the architect is that the building needs to be passive and never exceed 75°F. I hired an engineer to simulate and design the air flow across the structure. We ultimately settled on a hybrid solution that balances building costs against long term costs.
I'm extremely happy with the outcome! Most of the episode shows the process of building the solution.
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👉 You probably noticed that I post many of these videos on a delay. If you'd like to stay up to date with the latest ranch happenings, the best way is to join my email group at dustupsranch.com
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👉 In case you missed the previous episode, here’s a shortcut:
• Bulldozer Prep for My ...
The final dozer prep before she ships out to Dustups.
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00:00 Intro
00:28 Digging Trench
3:16 Hiring Nick Muglia
6:23 Aura Sponsor
8:10 Burying Temperature Sensor
9:48 Discussing Trench with Engineer
11:49 Damaged Thread
13:22 Discussing Soil Temperature with Nick
16:06 Measuring Our Hole!
16:27 Nick And Rami discuss the data
22:47 First look at completed trench
24:16 Putting Everything together
31:20 Filling the Trech
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💡 Useful Resources
👉 Get access to Dustups 2D/3D map by joining the membership program at www.buymeacoffee.com/dustups/...
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If you'd like to reach Nick Muglia, his email is nmugliadesign@gmail.com.
#homestead #desertlifestyle #heavymachinery #ranch #offgrid
I have just subscribed to your channel and have already watched five episodes tonight. A common theme I keep seeing happen is breakdowns of your equipment. As someone who has ran heavy equipment for many years I would recommend a pre-trip inspection. In other words walk around your machine and look for any problems before you just jump in it. It will save you a lot of time later. I have noticed bolts that were loose on a pre-trip that took me 2 minutes to tighten. If I would have let those bolts continue to walk their way out where things start falling off it would have taken hours to fix. A pre-trip inspection doesn't take very long and can save you a lot of time.
Amazing progress. This channel sure has gotten exciting lately. So much has been accomplished in a short time. Keep up the good work.
Hell yeah love the Earthbag home build. I have the same exact plan for my desert property. It holds up well and is good for the earth. If these governments were smart they'd be building the Earthbag homes for all the low income/homeless that want their own homes. In this day and age it makes so much sense. No need to blow $100k to have a builder come build when you can do all the work and the bags cost about $100
I think the opportunity cost is important to consider. But even still, sandbags and a shovel can realistically lead to a modern quality home at a fraction of the price.
thank you my man/woman. i would gladly inhabit such a one!
I wanted to ask what kind of permitting issues you'd face in Texas building one of these homes? In California specifically my county you have to get permitted for anything over 120sq ft but that might be changing soon if we can get zoning to see how great these sandbag homes are@@dustupstexas
@@fantasyEXX you don’t need all that authoritarian foolishness in Free America.
What about repurposing old grain bins? They are 21' in diameter and many are 16' tall, so there could be 2 floors. Put heating in the floor and you don't have a huge heating bill.
The sandbag bucket filler was ingenious. That is such a game-changer. Thank you for the ideas
According to your sponsorship: When I google Shaun Overton, I see a young man, proudly wearing his Starfleet uniform (and to be clear: I can't wait until it's finally 10/11/2161), but the blueprint for this project totally reminds me of Tatooine. I'm really impressed by your creativity and pioneering work - keep it up! Great respect from germany to everyone involved! You better watch out for the Tusken Raiders...
😂
None of us will be alive.
Tusken raiders...that explains the side arm.
I have actually done the geothermal cooling/heating. I built an off-grid house in AZ.
I have been watching your vids since the 2nd one with great interest and think what you are doing is great.
I am not sure that you are going to get the results expected.
I went down 8 feet, 100 foot long trench, with only a 45 degree at each end.
I also used thin walled PVC. Drilled holes on the bottom side of the tubes for the condensation to escape (with rock underneath).
I also spaced my tubes further apart.
I hope that it works well for you.
I see what you did wrong, ironically because of something you DIDN'T say.
How big is your house?
Filling that trench sure lived up to the ranch name! Love the passive heating and cooling approach. You'll appreciate it for many years to come.
Lol. I hadn't drawn the connection. But, I wore a respirator for good reason
@@dustupstexas Your respirator looks just like an Imperial Storm Trooper mask. You must be building on Tatooine 🤣👍
@@dustupstexasif you are actually planning on living there you aren’t going to be happy with the investment you are currently making. If this is a TH-cam vanity project, then feel free to edit as needed and disregard my comment. To make this as short and readable as possible, I know what I am talking about, trust me. There is a reason people love air conditioning and not burying tubes 2 feet underground, which will be destroyed, if they aren’t already. Abort, get rid of your “engineer”, and build your house with massive amounts of foam. Foam with lath and mortar, foam with corrugated steel, foam domes, foam quonset huts, foam-crete cast or in blocks, any kind of foam and a lot of it. Earth structures will never approach the performance of foam, ever. The yakhchals won’t do anything about humidity or offer any real cooling in summer. A foam structure will need only a tiny air conditioner and powered by diverse sources of power like a generator, batteries, pv panels, and air turbines (in that order), it will be very reliable, less expensive, and give you results you can live with. Besides, you will need a fridge, freezer, computer, washer, and all the other electrical goodies we just can’t live without. Abandon the current strategy now.
Hello, Shaun, just want to congratulate you for your update project
There always some comments that tell you how to do it better,, I just want to remind to to not take it negatively coz they come from care for your success. And there's no such as perfect project, even with months planning, so enjoy what you built, and keep a good work
Thanks for that!
Just to reinforce the sentiment, Shaun: I really love that you dream big and tackle things you’ve never done before. Yet you’re not afraid to make mistakes or ask for help.
You’re an inspiration!
I would love to second this comment.... and I know you've exposed yourself to just learn from the experience!! and that is really the fun in this!!! It's like a road trip with buddies and along the way you tell experiences that are slightly embarrassing in life and although slightly or severely uncomfortable lol yet looking back it was so liberating!! I guess in most of the videos I see that! this liberation of not knowing everything yet enjoying it as you share your experience!! I need to relay a sincere thank you for this!!! Fun stuff... just a good ol fashion journey!! Thanks for bringing me along!! @@dustupstexas
Would like to add that the engineer didn't add; is any shade cloth over the structures will aid in keep it cooler.... using the desert night time Temps... to push through the day. What is so awesome about this is using natural or cultivate Fiona can affect the temps 5 plus degrees during the high points...
We have so much to learn about creation!! again thanks!
I’m not seeing negativity, just constructive criticism from seemingly knowledgeable people.
One thing I worry about is radon gas and the fact those perforated pvc pipes would bring in a constant source of radon, go borrow a digi radon tester so you know what you are dealing with, better know now than dealing this later. The constant moving air flow might also make radon a non issue. But it's worth thinking about
Awesome job Shaun. Can’t wait to see the next steps in this project.
Wonderful episode👏👀 The aerial shot of the construction site was one of the highlights of the entire series so far!!!! I can’t wait to see this cabin 🌞🤝🌞
Thanks for sharing about the drone
I enjoy seeing the big ideas come to life here. Great project.
It looks like a termite mound, that cooling structure. Termites start their structure underground where its cooler and humid, and have a hole or holes or air vents above the ground through which heat leaves the underground resident chambers. The chambers are thus kept cool in the summer and warm in winter, with very little temperature variation when the seasons change.
Another way to keep the building cool in summer and warm in winter is to use thatch for roofing. Works insanely well.
I like the analogy
@@dustupstexas We use a lot of thatch roofing here in South Africa. Great natural insulation but does need to be replaced more often than roof tiles. Stating the obvious given that it's an organic material. Standing by for your next updated Sir! Appreciate you sharing this with us. Amazing learning experience. Thank you.
@cy-villian I live in Botswana. Thick thatch can last 20 years. I agree that roof tiles last longer.
@@cy-villianWhy not combine the two, tile with thatch over top? Seems like the best of both worlds. Obviously extra cost and work but cooler than just tile.
Hi Shaun,
The performance of Earth Pipe Cooling is affected by four main parameters :
1. Pipe length;
2. Pipe radius or diameter (balance should be found radius decreases, air flow increases)
3. Depth of the pipe inserted into the ground;
4. Air flow rate inside the pipe.
Resulting temperature decreases when :
• Pipe length increases
• Pipe diameter decreases
• Air flow decreases
• Depth increases to 4m (beyond no effect because temperature stable
I have read many scientific publications (I can share with you if you want), the best configuration is:
Depth: 3 to 5meters
Length: 30m
Can mold be an issue or problematic in a system like this?
@@tankfilms.If the dew point of the incoming air is lower than the ground temp, yes. In a dry desert cooling ambient air that probably won't be an issue though
I was wondering the same about the weight of the rubble stressing the pipes.
Spot on
thanks for the continuous work you do, weekly inspiration
the production value of this is f ing insane. If this project doesn't come off you'll do just fine in TV! LOVING the content and the dream.
I really want to see what this all looks like 10 years from now. Great stuff Shawn.
This is rapidly becoming my favourite chanel. I would love to be doing a project similar to this myself. So much fun to follow your progress. Keep up the good works.
I get excited every time you post a video. Watching from the gulf coast of Texas.
Love your commitment to this project 🎉
Loving the progress, i had no idea that you were putting anything like this in.
I thoroughly enjoyed this episode! One of the best episodes you've ever made!
Thanks for sharing all this thinking, I really appreciate the intel!
Glad to see you are going to make a solar chimney. I will enjoy watching that process!
I'm impressed. That is such a brutal environment. Amazing!
I was waiting 10h for this video !!
Thanks for sticking around. I hate not running on time.
loving this series
Excellent projects. Lot to learns. Designer is Mechanical Engineer. He has good knowledge about soil Mechanic and foundation Engineering
Your Geothermal tubes remind me of the berms used for the EarthShip style homes founded in Taos, NM. I was enthralled by the idea, and suddenly I realized the connection... Great Idea for cooling and for warmth in the winter (I'm sure you won't really have to worry about that) You probably have already looked over the earthship designs, but its a great idea to look into.
I love the concept. The design isn't my favorite though
I love how the videos are edited! It doesn’t feel like a vlog that usually takes hours
I live in a relatively similar environment. I was thinking of doing the exact same thing to chill down the cabin in the summer. I hope this works cause I’m looking to get started in the next year or two!
So this is what you wanted the doo-zer for, I wouldnt fancy digging that hole by hand in any heat but especially not out there.
Interesting stuff this these aerodynamic cooling systems...I use a certain amount myself in greenhouses and for cooling my workshop in summer so I am familiar with the processes involved.
It will be interesting to see how it works out there
Thanks for sharing
When running wire below grade, you should use type uf-b cable, which is gray instead of type nm-b which is white or yellow. Yellow romex isn't made for outdoor scenarios and it will corrode even when in conduit. Green copper does not conduct electricity at all
I didn't research that part. I only realized while picking up the HDPE that I ought to run the electric underground, too. I suppose I can pull the wire with fish tape and eventually run the correct grade
I'm thankful for the community around this project - so much knowledge shared. I can't imagine trying to amass all the knowledge needed on one's own.
Frank Lloyd Wright knew this in the 30's. Studying how he utilized it (building into a hillside, pipe between floors, etc) is fascinating. Nice work, Shaun.
Very Interesting concept you going for. Nice. Well done so far. Regards
It is so cool to watch you learn and grow new skills, build confidence in yourself to tackle this dream♡
wonderful background music! thanks.
hightec engenering combined with a shovel, great !! good luck from the netherlands, europe.
My bad. I finished the video. You are already well started on your layouts. Still enjoying your progress.
i'm about halfway through binging through all your videos. Just a thought I'd really like to see some overhead footage before you started and afterwards to see if you started making a footprint. I'm really enjoying what you're doing from over in the UK. Keep it up 🌲 are coming
Interesting. I am glad you chose to install the passive/ active heating cooling air system. Once you get the dirt on them I hope you can test air flow thru the pipes.
Why not take the trench on into the house and dig out a 3' to 4' deep basement and foundation? Still shallow enough for functional windows, but you get the thermal benefit of the "basement" walls. I worry a bit about that thin-walled pipe holding up under all that dirt. Earlier he mentioned embedding the pipe in concrete for thermal transfer, but that would have also provided significant strength to prevent the pipes from collapsing. I'd definitely plan to berm up the outer walls of the domes 2 or 3 feet, to help shed water and provide more thermal protection for the foundation. Do you have clay soils available? Hyper-adobe or super-adobe might be an option. Loose sandbags don't harden or stack reliably. Getting the soil damp as you're filling the bags will help regardless.
The soil is only 7% clay. Part of the goal is to keep the construction simple. This was the most complex part
Finally, a video longer than 5-6 minutes.
That's refreshing to hear. Most people won't sit through a video longer than 10 minutes.
I'm getting a sense for length and pace. I'm learning as much about social media as I am about the plants
Excellent stuff bro
One of the best videos!!
Cool POV shots of digging the trench!
Wow, you got so much done. You are rocking it (bad pun) out there…
I just started watching this weekend. I am full of admiration for what you are doing and would love to do it myself. I'm a bit disturbed by the engineer telling you that you can tape the up pipes for your cooling system to the flexible pipes underground. I am over 50 and have done some projects - that look's like a failure point in 5 to 10 years.... or less.
When I worked in road maintenance, we used a lot of sandbags for culvert ends. We would mix bags of concrete into our sand mixture before filling the sandbags. Then when the bags got wet the concrete would harden the bags.
USACE would just buy it already bagged. Place the bag, drive in a rebar, pull out the rebar and stack the next bag. The rebar made a hole so the water could get in easier. Quikrete sells them in 80lb bags.
Good job!
Dear Shaun,
Love the channel super impressed and love watching you learn and grow as a person and more! I feel a strong need to comment as I have researched many of the same things as you and we have VERY similar dreams and alignments of study. However in my research PVC would have been the better choice than corrugated tubing... mold is a serious problem and with the perforation in the tubing and the now stone pool (under the dirt) that you've carved with the limestone standing water is going to be an issue. This could block air flow, and encourage mold and bacteria growth. with the Corrugated tubes, back filling with stone would have helped however that creates a bit of insulation and less contact with soil.. thus PVC would have been the ideal choice. Putting the tubes on a slight gradient in a V pattern with drainage in the center would ensure that the condensate would drain. With the smooth pipes you need less force to allow for natural convection of the air, as well less electricity to "force" the air out on an especially hot day or with a pressure system disrupting flow think of your chimney in winter some days it goes like a inferno some days you can get the damn fire to start.
Also i've been wondering for the life of me why you havn't started with a tractor front loader backhoe... but seeing the limestone I can understand why, I wish you all the best on your journey's I am super proud of you! you're doing incredible! Hopefully my wife and I can come visit sometime in the future, we are working on a similar project in Tucson! 90acres!
All the best
Ethan
I used to live in a tipi in new mexico. We had dug down 4ft or so into the ground and laid concrete flooring. We then lined the walls of the pit with gravel in an aluminum wall. It was very comfortable and beautiful. When i go back im hoping to build a bâdgir.
Some of the old, old buildings in Prescott Az have somewhat similar. That air coming up was cool as AC and Swamp cooling.
There was a youtube series that showed a similar cooling method, only it was entirely passive and the pipes didn't need to go down into the ground like that since they built an earthen bunker atop them. The pipes actually sloped upwards into the house too so you didn't have to worry about water flowing in or pooling in the pipes. I can't find it now but you might have better luck. Some of their early buildings looked straight out of Tatooine, but later builds look more traditional. I belive it was in Arizona but I'm not sure.
Great idea. It will work.
I was dong some math with various parameters. I think you should extended the run of the 4" pipe to 50 feet. Four runs of 25 feet will not give nearly the heat exchange as one run of 100 feet. It is simply not there for the length of time needed for a decent heat exchange. Adding forced air shortens the duration even further.
I would try to extent the height of the risers as well. This in combimation with a longer run will get you closer to a gravity-based system, which will cool much more efficiently. I fear that adding the forced air into the mix will require the need for much longer runs (more than one) to get the cooling you desire.
If you have conceeded to runnng a fan, you might as well use a pump with a buried closed-loop, coiled liquid system. Plenty of solar out there to get the job done and it is magnatudes more effiecient. Still geothermal, just using liquid instead of air. Downside - way more expensive.
I move my air by way of convection . You don't need a fan .
There wouldn't be much pressure in the pipes if we doubled the runs. There are a lot of trafeoffs
Fascinating!!!
OMG, when I first came across your videos this cooling system is exactly what I thought of!!! It's cheap, or at least relative to a solar panel or any other electric system would be.
This is awesome :)
To Drain the pipes, Make sure they have a 4 degree slope to one direction, at the end of this direction, you will have them terminate in a drain T allowing the moisture to drop down into the earth there, and the air to blow through or be sucked through the other half of the T.
This way you will need zero drainage in the system, and you can flush them of dust and debris easily.
(Think like a Roman.)
Using sealed pipe, you could seal the system and bleach it or otherwise let it soak to kill off mold, which in future builds can improve longevity.
Mold might not be a concern in your situation however.
you can get plastic pipes that are corrugated on the outside but smooth on the inside. they use them for electrical cable protection under ground. the problem that I predict is that between the corrugation and the smooth lining is an airgap that creates isolation for the heat transfer
This episode really lives up to the "Dustups" name. Thank you for sharing I am enjoying your progress.
I like the effort but I feel like just buying some solar panels and a eg4 mini split would handle all your needs much cheaper and easier. Get some eg4 battery packs to cover non sunny days but its def more sunny than not sunny there. either way looking forward to your progress.
Hi Shaun, great video. Do you have a link to the temperature sensors you used? Thanks!
i am excited to see this system working. I learned of this method probably 12 years ago. I intended to implement it on our AZ property but my partner has issues with mold (cannot rid her body of it as most healthy people can) so we decided not to do it. I noticed Nick had/has the same concern so I'm interested to learn how you address that concern and if you encounter mold issues in the future. I hope you don't. Nasty stuff.
He determined it's not an issue because the perforated pipes drain directly into sand. There's nowhere for moisture to really stick around
@@dustupstexasplease tell us in the future if the Holes in the pipes worked
Did I miss the point where you explained why you didn't do the standard method geothermal with water pumped thru piping? Same trench could have had 20x more length of 1" PE pipe. More heat transfer, easier to use in the buildings. The same system could be tied into a solar water heater system to give you even more heat in the winter.
Video could be titled "$5500 landfill" because it looked like someone digging a hole and burying some useless plastic. If you could keep a house cool in the summer, in the desert even, with 100ft of cheap drain pipe buried just a few feet underground, then I think it would be quite popular.
The fact that Nick's original idea used aluminum pipe indicates that he either thought you had a crazy high budget or he has no real experience relating to this sort of project. When he switched to corrugated plastic, I assumed he meant plastic that was actually designed to be buried 6ft underground. Nope. Just grabbed the cheapest, flimsy, expandable, corrugated pipe and dumped 4-5ft of rocky dirt on top of it as if its are not going to be immediately crushed. So silly. At 28:24 you just slightly put your knee on the pipe and it immediately deforms under that slight load. And you think 5ft of dirt didn't crush it?
Laughed out loud when I heard "The engineer said I could just tape it". CFD of HVAC systems just means plugging the specs of a building HVAC into a program to check if all the components are sized properly. Its presumably commercial HVAC and working with a team of engineers where others are doing the design and selection of components and he does the analysis. He likely has minimal experience actually selecting components and likely zero experience with geothermal. All that aside even, I'm quite certain he has no experience with proper connections of underground corrugated drain pipe. He can likely do the analysis to show the required piping size and heat transfer rates, but its obvious that he should have admitted that his expertise ended there and sought advice from someone with geothermal experience.
The separate building for a "mechanical room" is normally a good idea, but in this case its working against your air based geothermal. You're not circulating the same air thru the system. You're simply pumping in your conditioned air and venting the same CFM out of the building. That could work if you had a very powerful system capable of bringing the outdoor air to the desired temperature at a CFM high enough. Generally forced air HVAC systems circulate the same air throughout the house with a small fresh air inlet. This way your ~95% of the air going thru the system is already close to the desired temperature.
The issue described above could be fixed by pairing the pipes such that 2 feed the blower in the mechanical room and 2 return the air to the main building. You could add a small fresh inlet at the blower if needed. Basically a standard forced air HVAC system at that point with the ground acting as furnace/AC. That is assuming the pipe isn't all or mostly crushed.
Braving the cartels to make a cool off grid oasis is a fun idea, but this is shaping up to be a few years of wasting time and money before hopefully getting it right.
Water pumping requires way more energy and he wanted a passive system.
@@uribove huh? His plan uses a fan to move air thru the pipes. It's not passive. A water pump could be sized use the same power as the fan.
@@vica153 as passive as possible was his plan. Not saying the engineer succeeded 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
I also find it weird in a very sunny place that he outright refuses to use solar to power electrical cooling
@@uribove Water would be better in every way. Air could work, but the amount of piping required would be WAY more expensive. Plus with water you don't have to worry about the pipes getting contaminated dirt/mold/animals like the air pipes will. His design, especially with the joke pipe selection, isn't going to work at all.
Solar would too easy. That area gets over 2000hrs of sunlight per year. ~4hrs of sunlight even in "winter". More than 5hrs of sunlight per day on average. $5500 spent on this landfill would have gotten him a 2-3kW with a little bit of battery backup and bring in ~5000kWh per year. That would be enough for well over 1000hrs of runtime of a 25k BTU heat pump. For the cost of this whole silly air setup he could have solid off grid power setup and heat pump.
I imagine the problem with solar would be sticking out like a sore thumb when you're alone in the middle of no where with desperate people trekking northward.
Actually if you pay attention the method he's using is an adaptation of a technique that has been used for a couple thousand years. The fan and buried pipes are substituting for for the pit in center of building . You also have too take into account the shape of the building allows the exchange to happen more naturally then traditional box buildings. From a electrical perspective a fan is more economical then a heat pump (used in most geographic thermal
Awesome!!
Their is also way called rammed earth mostly can be built with materials we found in our land and keeps temperatures normal , sand bags are also good but after I seen some rammed earth structures I loved it, was something you can consider for your future projects happy to see the progress of your property
I settled on sandbags over rammed earth because it's so much faster
@@dustupstexas understood thanks for your reply
I've overcome the heat problem by building mostly underground. My house stays a comfortable 24 degrees all year.
Worth the wait! Just curious Shaun,, when was this drone aerial footage taken? There was some footage of digging the trench from March 2023. Were these (drone) shots recent?
So cool to see how you can just go and build anything you want on the property. Truly a man's dream.
The drone footage is also from March
Last time I investigated ventilation, I learned to avoid PVC/plastics like the plague. They (like plastic clothing) help bacteria growth. For home ventilation, pipes exist which counter that using nano coatings. I don't know how effective these counters are, I just settled on galvanized metal pipes.
I forget if it was in the video or not. We considered steel, aluminum and various plastics. The advantage is the HDPE is that it's dirt cheap and perforated. Working with metals was significantly more expensive
I would think those pipes would break under all that dirt. Looking forward to seeing this work.
I think you need much more distance under the ground for cold the air. Or install the tubes in zig zag. Better if use metal hoses for more thermal transfer. You can put a tube under the outside perimeter of the house fence before enter to the room.
Well,I wish I could have got to you before you started your geothermal system.
I'm from Alpine and have been here for approx 35 years and am a retired herpetologist.
Admire what your doing.
Hopefully we'll run into each other eventually and it would be nice to see your property up close.
Come on out!
Do you post dates when you'll be on your property?
This time of the year outside temperatures and conditions can be at their best.
I LoVE your project!!
I wonder if once U get some desert forestry going there should be an Earth bag home/center on the Ranch. It could be your Nursery.
Ok this is awesome, it's basically the tech version of what Geoff Lawson is doing. Love your work man
Just a thought, if you use the more active system at 18:33 in reverse and then place Hydrophobic material into the stack and provide a reservoir you would create condensation and perhaps eventually fill a tank for water by just using passive air flow.
I like the video style
Back in the late 70s worked with early solar/thermal mass underground large scale piping, mold/mildew eventually killed the test project…
Sandbag home building sounds great. Obviously UV stable sandbag material. I like the cooling system too. Fingers crossed your engineer has it right. If not just extend the pipes and move the mechanical room. Best always
The UV is only an issue if they are left uncovered. Once there's stucco over them, they should be fine
@@dustupstexas Sounds good. My fault I missed the stucco part. You should build about a dozen of them. Then rent them like air bnb, joking
Shaun, you should check out the EarthShips in Taos, NM. They are designed to handle a hot, dry environment. Passive heating and cooling.
I use generator and swamp cooler noon-6pm a few days a week. Generator is in a ten foot deep hole so I do not hear it. The pipes warm the ground progressively, so a pre-cooler is necessary.
Its coming together like big jigsaw puzzle
I feel like those flimsy black plastic pipes are going to just flatten once the weight of the dirt/rock is on top of them and starts to settle. I really hope that doesn't happen, because it would be such a waste of effort, time, and money.
Indeed, but I can play telephone through them. I seriously doubt they collapsed
True, but they need to be thin so they can transfer the colder temperature on to the air that travels through, an ideal solutuon could be to put larger rocks around the pipes (not on top) and then to cover them with dirt
With 30 years irrigation experience, yes the ground moves once disturbed, must support pipes place them apart fill with soft sand first underneath and on top of the pipes about a foot, lightly compact then fill trench, the compaction over time, of the fine sand, will naturally support the pipes like concrete. Avoid at all costs right angles use slow bends, as compaction occurs over time right angles can leak/ tear as well as restricting flow.
Love what you doing . Thank you for sharing
Hopefully your engineer checked the allowable burial depth on those black corrugated pipes, considering your soil properties. They look pretty flimsy, but that's really difficult to tell from just watching a TH-cam video. Also, I would have used some long radius ells on the vertical pipes. Avoid any possibility of crimping the black pipe at the transition to horizontal.
@@dustupstexas Yeah, but will they still be that way in a year is the question.
While watching you digging down into rock I had the thought that if you could not go down 8 feet the other option was to add fill on top of the trench to make the pipes 8 feet deep.
I asked about that, but that's not how heat moves in soil.
I don't know if you have been doing this. But I would suggest you write down everything you ever have to run back to town for and compile into a list of keeping extras or atheist one of and pack it all into a shipping container or something along those lines and your emergency trips to town will be much less likely.
We've only had two incidents that required runs into town. The list is pretty easy to remember
Thoughts on plastic pipe/soil weight, all plastic pipe used underground should be laid on bed of well screened sand and covered with same, perhaps 8” top and bottom…
If you open the roof of the building, the fan can be omitted due to the suction effect of the rising air, because if the diameter of the suction pipe is over 3 cm, the cavitation flow starts and together with the chimney effect, it absorbs the heat from the ground, which knocks down the house, only the air movement can help , hey, if you make small clay pots and drip water on them and the evaporation is partly in a water tank, it takes heat away from the space by running the supply pipes through it, then it cools it too!
Great. It will be cool to see that in action.
The engineer mentioned mold. What is the plan for that. I would not breath air that went through those pipes in the ground umless it was filtered with a HEPA filter first. I would prefer some sort of liquid to air heat transfer.
The pipes are perforated. Whatever condensation that forms drains right out into sand
Have you modeled an ~8' thermal umbrella around the foundation like a walkway but only a foot or so underground if not under a cement porch?
If make a Yakhnchal style cooling system you can adding a solar powered fan on the top of mounted houses. A solar power stirling engine would do much.
Interesante. Gracias
Look into hearthships, they seem to be cool and work.
Mr. Overton, there appears to be some technical difficulties. a few screen glitches, and at the end, the "thanks for watching" showed up without any pictures, just white shapes!
i like the design, cool-
as far as those tube thingies, .. kind of so-so. i would do like a concrete large tube, single. like those big blocks with the circular opening one sees laying about in industrial areas. or even one of those metal shipping containers... if it is deep enough, it would work (and that looked deep enough for sure) THAT WAY, there's is plenty of cool air and you don't have to worry about the integrity-- AND it would be easily accessible! that's all! thank you! always a treat 🎉 😁
Thats why I had an engineer manage it. He helped me balance cost against performance. I didn't have the equipment to lift manage 25' long concrete tubes
@@dustupstexas ok
Little idea right here. Maybe you could use part of the dirt you´re digging for building more checkdams. Cheers from Argentina, good luck.
It's a bit too high up from the watershed, but possible
@ 5:00 yakhchal these, (I THINK) are also found in Peru's Atacama Desert. I think they're in reverse and function to propel water long distances There are many, they are engineered to be 10 feet wide, (SO MANY MILLIMILLIMETERS, or what-ever the base 10 UNITS are)
I think those are different
I'm using a steel flexible tube that's a flexible dryer tube like thing about 10 inches in diameter. But I ran it down our well casing where it's freezing cold. Forcing air with computer fans. Up three stories ice cold
awesome.
Have you heard of that guy in Nebraska who uses this constant air flow system to heat his green house? He is able to grow oranges year round, it keeps a constant 54 degrees through freezing winters.🎉
Yep. I loved that video
You never said if the A/C actually worked? Update? Is it finished? Does it work?
You need to a Powered parachute to get to the store faster 🤔
That's not a crazy idea when we need something light weight like grease or a small hand tool